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PUiaOSGilEiE) HY  JI.IBoLfllPPORJCOTT  It 


MY 


LAST  CRUISE; 


OB, 


WHERE  WE  WENT  AND  WHAT  WE  SAW: 


BEING    AN    ACCOUNT   OP 


VISITS  TO  THE   MALAY  AND  LOO-CHOO  ISLANDS,  THE   COASTS 

OF  CHINA,   FORMOSA,   JAPAN,   KAMTSCHATKA,  SIBERIA, 

AND  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  AMOOR  RIVER. 


BT 


A.   W.   HABERSHAM, 

LIEUT.  U.  S.  NAVY, 
AND  LATE  OP  THE  NORTH  PACmC  SURVEYINQ  AND  EXPLOBINO  EXPEDITION. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

J.   B.   LIPPINCOTT   &   CO. 

1857. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1857,  by 

J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  &  CO. 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Eastern  District  of 

Pennsylvania. 


SOI 

HI  13-^1 


TO 


Sthi)  (PtDmoitg 


MY  BROTHER  OFFICERS 


■VrnO      PERISHED      IN      THE      UNFORTUNATE 


BEIG-OF-WAR  PORPOISE. 


115f?573 


PREFACE. 


One  of  the  most  prolific  sources  of  loss  to  the 
merchant,  and,  through  him,  to  the  world  at  large, 
exists  in  the  incorrectness  of  many  of  the  charts  by 
which  his  ships  are  sailed.  There  are  also  many 
coasts  of  which  we  have  no  charts  at  all,  and  there 
are  various  currents  with  whose  strength  and  direc- 
tion we  do  not  pretend  to  be  acquainted. 

Besides,  there  are  some  few  branches  of  our  com- 
mon family  of  whom  we  know  little  or  nothing,  and 
there  is  also  a  vast  extent  of  the  earth's  surface  yet 
awaiting  the  first  pressure  of  the  explorer's  foot. 

To  test  the  accuracy  of  charts  extant,  to  prepare 
others  of  unknown  coasts,  to  follow  the  trackless 
path  of  the  wayward  current,  to  lift  the  veil  that 
hung  between  civilization  and  the  customs  and  habits 
of  isolated  tribes  and  nations,  and  to  collect  data 
from  unfrequented  parts  of  our  globe  for  the  advance- 
ment of   science,    the    Government  of    the    United 


6  PREFACE. 

States  sent  out  the  North  Pacific  Surveying  and 
Exploring  Expedition;  and  the  following  pages  are 
simply  intended  to  show  where  it  was  that  we  went, 
and  what  it  was  that  we  saw,  while  engaged  in  the 
attainment  of  these  objects. 

And  now,  in  presenting  them  to  the  public,  I  ad- 
vance but  one  claim  to  its  approbation :  i.e.  their 
contents,  though  limited,  and  confined  mostly  to 
personal  observation  while  serving  successively  on 
board  of  several  vessels  of  the  squadron,  are  strictly 
matter-of-fact,  and,  though  slightly  coloured  by  the 
excitement  of  feeling  consequent  upon  my  having 
participated  in  most  of  the  scenes  of  peril  and  ad- 
venture which  they  will  be  found  to  contain,  yet  is 
the  colouring  honest,  and  not  at  all  calculated  to 
impart  incorrect  impressions. 

The  Author. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGIE 

Introduces  the  reader  to  the  Expedition,  and  carries  him  to  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope ;  after  which  he  is  taken  back  to  the  Cape  De  Verde 
Islands,  and  from  thence  again  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

We  receive  a  visit  which  is  not  intended  to  inquire  after  our  health,  and 
make  the  acquaintance  of  '*  Lieutenant  Paget,  R.N. ;"  after  which  the 
parser  and  myself  *'  smell  a  rat"'  and  fire  at  a  catbird,  to  the  infinite 
terror  of  some  Hottentot  women 23 

CHAPTER  III. 

We  make  up  a  party  to  visit  Cape  Town,  and  take  our  seats  iu  a  chariot 
— We  read  poetry  in  four  languages,  and  think  that  it  must  be  a  flue 
thing  to  be  a  Mormon — We  make  the  acquaintance  of  an  eager  gen- 
tleman, and  conceive  a  high  idea  of  the  hospitality  of  Cape  Town 37 

CHAPTER  IV. 
We  leave  Simon's  Town  and  sail  for  Batavia,  where  we  receive  a  visit 
that  does  relate  to  our  health,  and  see  a  remarkable  gun ;  after  which 
we  listen  to  several  astonishing  accounts  from  an  English  resident, 
and  again  put  to  sea 64 

CHAPTER  V. 

Wo  reach  Caspar  Strait?,  and  commence  our  survey  by  firing  a  gun — I 
am  ordered  on  temporary  duty,  which  lasts  four  months  and  enables  me 


»  CONTENTS. 

PAOB 

to  visit  Singapore — Vast  preparations  of  an  alarmist  to  receive  pirates, 
and  the  way  in  which  we  learned  the  meaning  of  the  Malay  word 
"man-ar-r" 74 

CHAPTER  VI. 
We  are  deserted  by  the  Hancock  and  Kennedy,  and  find  ourselves  called 
upon  to  enjoy  a  moonlight  walk,  which  proves  to  be  so  pleasant  that 
we  continue  the  exercise  for  two  days — We  visit  a  Malay  village,  and 
are  cautioned  against  the  ferocity  of  Chinese  dogs 92 

CHAPTER  VII. 
We  arrive  at  Hong-Kong,  and  find  more  repairs  wanted — Commander 
Ringgold  retui^ns  to  the  United  States  in  bad  health,  and  Lieutenant- 
Commanding  John  Rodgers  takes  the  command  of  the  Expedition — 
Something  about  human  life  and  ducks  in  China,  and  how  we  were 
liberally  entertained  by  the  foreign  merchants  of  Canton 113 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

How  we  talked  of  "  visiting  Pekin  by  water,"  and  how  the  "  old  John"' 
and  Cooper  were  pressed  into  the  corps  diplomatique — How  an  old 
tub  amused  herself  by  rolling  her  masts  out,  and  how  a  New-York 
pilot-boat  weathered  a  gale — How  we  visited  the  great  city  of  Fou- 
Chow-Foo,  and  how  we  saw  cormorants  catching  fish 127 

CHAPTER  IX. 

We  arrive  at  Shanghae,  whence  we  sail  with  the  commissioners  for  the 
Pi-ho — We  pass  over  the  Yellow  Sea  in  fine  style,  anchor  in  sight  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Pi-ho,  and  send  in  the  smaller  vessels — We  fail  to 
"reach  Pekin  by  water,"  and  return  in  disgust  to  Shanghae,  where 
the  old  John's  engine  "runs  down" 143 

CHAPTER  X. 

We  hear  a  distressing  rumour  and  are  greatly  dispirited — AVe  are  re- 
quested by  the  merchants  of  Shanghae  to  attack  a  piratical  squadron, 
and  evince  a  praiseworthy  readiness  for  action — The  "old  John" 
astonishes  the  Chinese  of  the  Wan-chew  River,  after  which  she  visits 
Formosa  and  liberates  two  Chinese  convicts 159 


CONTENTS.  9 

CHAPTER  XI. 

PAGE 

Something  about  the  Anakii'ima  group  of  islands,  and  climbing  hills — 
Also  a  word  in  regard  to  Loo-chooans,  and  two  missionaries  who 
resided  among  them,  and  how  it  was  that  we  left  Loo-choo  and 
arrived  in  Japan 180 

CHAPTER  XII. 
We  land  in  Japan,  and  visit  a  number  of  Americans  and  one  Russian — 
"  Mahomet  and  the  mountain"  diflfer  as  to  the  most  pleasant  direction 
for  a  stroll,  and  finally  part  company,  to  the  evident  annoyance  of 
the  latter 203 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Something  about  buying  and  selling  in  Japan,  and  how  they  used  Com- 
modore Perry's  treaty  to  swindle  us — Also,  how  they  ask  foreigners 
to  let  people  enjoy  their  meals  in  quiet,  and  how  a  foreigner  felt 
unusually  small 221 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Something  about  baths  and  bathing  in  Japan,  and  how  they  objected  to 
our  surveying  their  coasts — How  we  overcame  their  objections,  and 
how  Tatz-nosky  took  several  long  rides — How  Bunsby  discovered 
land,  and  how  the  "old  John"  crossed  the  Straits  of  T'Sugar 241 

CHAPTER  XV. 

How  brass  buttons  are  valued  in  Japan,  and  how  partridges  are  there 
transformed  into  singing-birds — How  we  visited  a  sea-god's  temple, 
and  how  a  German  explorer  preferred  remaining  outside — How  some 
Americans  leaned  on  Commodore  Perry's  treaty,  and  how  it  gave 
way  under  them 270 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
We  pass  before  the  great  city  of  Matsmai,  to  the  wonder  of  the  Japa- 
nese, continue  to  the  northward  along  the  west  coast  of  the  island  of 
Jesso,  beat  a  Japanese  officer  on  the  head,  and  finally  arrive  at  the 
town  of  Tomari,  where  we  have  a  good  look  at  the  Ainu,  or  "hairy 
Kuriles" — The  last  of  Japan  and  the  commencement  of  a  heavy  fog...  295 


10  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

FAOB 

We  reach  the  peninsula  of  Kamtschatka,  follow  its  west  coast  to  the 
northward,  and  discover  a  coal-mine  and  a  half-buried  village — After 
which  we  prove  a  new-fashioned  bootjack,  and  take  a  dip  into  the 
science  of  geology — We  find  that  shower-baths  are  not  always 
cleansing 317 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
We  leave  the  coal-mine  for  a  hunt,  and  encounter  another  party  simi- 
larly engaged — We  return  with  them  to  the  village  and  are  hospitably 
entertained — The  headman  not  an  advocate  of  the  Maine  liquor-law 
— How  we  "coaled  ship,"  and  how  we  ran  a  race  with  a  flood-tide...  343 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

We  enter  the  Gulf  of  Penjinks  and  reach  our  highest  northern  latitude, 
after  which  we  return  to  the  Okotsk,  and  cross  over  to  the  coast  of 
Siberia. — We  narrowly  escape  shipwreck,  and  finally  arrive  at  a  place 
called  Ola,  where  we  are  regaled  by  the  sight  of  bullocks  and  the 
taste  of  milk 372 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Some  other  things  about  "Ola,"  showing  the  reader  how  an  old  woman 
nearly  lost  her  favourite  milch-cow,  and  how  they  catch  fish  in  that 
out-of-the-way  part  of  the  world,  etc.  etc. — We  arrive  at  Fabius 
Island,  Bay  of  Taousk,  and  regale  ourselves  upon  whortleberries 393 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

We  visit  Armen  and  buy  turnips  "by  the  patch,"  encounter  a  vitupera- 
tive gentleman  and  some  very  pretty  young  ladies,  and  return  on 
board — After  which  we  steam  farther  down  the  coast,  pay  a  nocturnal 
visit  to  another  settlement,  and  end  by  attempting  to  wade  a  Siberian 
ford 408 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
We  waylay  a  Siberian  bear  and  narrowly  escape  "catching  a  Tartar;" 
after  which  we  engage  in  a  stampede,  climb  a  very  steep  hill,  and 
then  descend  again  to  our  boat 426 


CONTENTS.  11 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

PAGE 

We  arrive  at  Ayan  and  fall  in  with  some  old  acquaintances — After 
which  we  narrowly  escape  being  feasted  to  death  by  the  Russians, 
are  told  some  "stunning"  yarns,  see  a  whale  struck,  and  finally  get 
safely  to  sea 449 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
We  visit  the  Tschantar  Islands,  partake  largely  of  wild  rhubarb,  and 
capture  one  of  the  inhabitants — After  which  we  sail  for  the  Amoor 
River,  where  we  fall  in  with  the  boats  of  the  Russian  squadron,  fail 
to  pass  through  into  the  Gulf  of  Tartary,  and  finally  return  into  the 
Okotsk  Sea 483 

CONCLUSION. 
We  commence  our  homeward-bound  voyage  and  are  stopped  by  a  north- 
east gale,  after  which  a  westerly  hurricane  comes  to  our  assistance 
and  frightens  the  "  old  John"  into  unusual  activity — We  are  attacked 
by  the  scurvy,  ari'ive  at  San  Francisco,  and  hear  various  kinds  of 
news — The  last  of  the  "old  John,"  and  an  idea  of  the  results  of  the 
cruise 495 


MY  LAST  CRUISE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCES  THE  READER  TO  TUB  EXPEDITION,  AND  CARRIES  HIM  TO  THE 
CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE;  AFTER  WHICH  HE  19  TAKEN  BACK  TO  THE  CAPE 
DE  VERDE  ISLANDS,  AND  FROM  THENCE  AGAIN  TO  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD 
HOPE. 

The  United  States  Surveying  and  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion to  the  Northi  Pacific,  CMna  Seas,  &c.  &c.  sailed  from 
the  port  of  ]N"orfolk  on  the  21st  of  June,  1853,  and  com- 
menced its  wandering  and  perilous  cruise. 

It  was  commanded  by  Commander  Cadwallader  Ring- 
gold, of  the  navy,  and  consisted  of  the  five  following 
vessels,  viz. : — 

The  sloop-of-war  Vincennes,  (flag-ship,)  of  eight  hun- 
dred tons,  ten  guns,  and  some  two  himdred  men. 

The  screw-steamer  John  Hancock,  of  five  hundred  and 
thirty  tons,  three  guns,  and  seventy  men. 

The  brig-of-war  Porpoise,  of  about  four  hundred  tons, 
five  guns,  and  some  seventy  men. 

The  schooner  J.  Fenimore  Cooper,  of  eighty-eight  tons, 
one  gun,  and  twenty  men. 

And  lastly,  the   store-ship  John  P.  Kennedy,  of  five 

13 


14  AN    EARLY    BREAKDOWN. 

hundred  and  twenty  tons,  three  guns,  and  forty  men. 
On  board  of  the  last  sailed  the  writer  of  the  present 
volume. 

The  first  four  of  these  vessels  proceeded  to  Simon's 
Bay,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  via  the  island  of  Madeira, 
while  the  latter  touched  at  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands  on 
her  way  to  the  same  destination.  On  the  20th  of  Sep- 
tember we  had  all  joined  company  at  that  extreme  of 
Southern  Africa,  and  were  expecting  soon  to  continue 
our  voyage,  when  to  our  extreme  chagrin  it  was  an- 
nounced that  every  vessel  of  the  squadron,  with  the 
exception  of  the  little  "  Cooper,"  w^as  in  need  of  extensive 
repairs :  we  had  been  sent  to  sea  in  a  miserably  unsea- 
worthy  condition.  Of  course  these  repairs  were  at  once 
entered  upon  with  energy  and  spirit ;  but  such  was  their 
extent,  and  such  the  difiiculty  of  obtaining  skilful  work- 
men and  proper  material  at  that  port,  that  it  was  not 
until  the  9th  of  ISTovember  that  we  once  more  found 
ourselves  clear  of  the  headlands  and  fairly  pointed  for 
the  locale  of  our  future  work. 

The  passage  of  the  Kennedy  as  far  as  Porto  Praya, 
Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  was  remarkably  pleasant,  though 
presenting  but  two  occurrences  worthy  of  note.  These 
were  meteorological  phenomena,  the  following  descrip- 
tion of  which  I  take  from  my  journal  under  date  of 
July  1  :— 

"The  last  two  nights  have  each  been  remarkable  for 
an  interesting  display  of  meteorological  phenomena.  The 
first  of  these,  as  seen  night  before  last  by  Mr.  Kennon, 
the  master,  consisted  of  a  meteorite  or  fire-ball,  which, 
commencing  its  flight  in  the  vicinity  of  the  constellation 


METEOROLOGICAL    PHENOMENA.  15 

of  the  Scorpion,  measured  a  segment  of  at  least  sixty 
degrees,  and  finally  exploded  into  a  dozen  or  more 
burning  fragments,  each  of  which  was  distinctly  observed 
obeying  the  laws  of  gravity.  The  light  emitted  during 
its  flight,  previous  to  the  explosion,  was  a  greenish  blue 
of  rare  brilliancy,  that  pained  the  eye  by  its  unexpected 
appearance  and  intensity  of  power,  and  illuminated  our 
decks  as  effectually  as  if  a  blue-light  had  been  burnt  on 
each  mast-head  and  yard-arm.  At  the  time  of  its  explo- 
sion it  could  not  have  been  distant  more  than  a  mile,  and 
yet  he  heard  no  attendant  report.  It  was  like  the  burst- 
ing of  an  immense  rocket,  and  as  the  flaming  fragments 
fell  in  curves  towards  the  sea  he  listened  in  vain  for  the 
expected  sound. 

"The  second  of  these  was  seen  by  Captain  Collins  and 
myself  last  night,  while  the  first  watch  was  dragging  to 
its  close. 

"  Though  undoubtedly  the  most  rare  and  singular  of 
the  two,  it  offered  scarcely  any  ground  for  description. 
It  was  without  motion,  and  wanted  the  beautifully-varie- 
gated colour  of  the  former.  It  presented  a  most  perfect 
representation  of  the  human  eye,  though  visible  for  not 
more  than  a  second  at  the  utmost.  We  distinctly  saw  it 
contract  and  dilate  twice  during  that  limited  period,  im- 
mediately after  which  the  lids,  as  it  were,  closed,  and  shut 
it  out  from  view." 

What  now  was  this  phenomenon  ?  A  comet  without  a 
train  or  more  than  a  momentary  existence  ?  A  shooting 
star  or  meteorite  without  motion  ?  or  an  ignis  fatuus  in 
mid-heaven  ?  One  more  conversant  with  the  stars  than  I 
must  answer  the  question.     *     *     * 


16  WATERING    SHIPS. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Porto  Praya,  ou  the  14tli  of  July, 
we  proceeded  to  get  in  a  supply  of  wood  and  water;  while 
thus  engaged,  a  limited  opportunity  only  was  offered  us 
for  making  observations.  I  find  the  following  remarks 
in  my  journal  in  regard  to  that  port : — 

"  Soon  after  letting  go  the  anchor,  we  proceeded  to  raft 
our  water-casks  and  tow  them  on  shore,  where  we  em- 
ployed negroes,  the  slaves  of  negroes,  to  fill  them  and  fioat 
them  out  to  the  boats.  And  here  let  me  say  a  word  in 
regard  to  'watering  ship'  at  this  and  other  similar  ports. 

"  The  process,  though  not  at  all  impracticable,  is  at- 
tended by  many  disagreeable,  often  fatal,  drawbacks.  On 
account  of  the  heavy  and  constant  surf  which  lines  their 
coasts,  boats  can  only  land  at  particular  points;  and,  when 
these  points  do  not  happen  to  be  near  a  stream  of  fresh 
water,  you  have  to  land  on  the  open  beach.  In  this  case 
it  becomes  necessary  for  boats  with  water-casks  in  tow  to 
let  go  their  anchors  some  distance  outside  of  the  surf, 
and  then  drop  in  towards  this  latter  as  far  as  is  consistent 
with  safety.  The  line  by  which  the  casks  have  been 
towed  is  then  cast  adrift,  when  the  latter  are  quickly 
washed  upon  the  beach,  while  the  crew  jump  overboard, 
wade  on  shore,  and  roll  them  through  the  hot  sand  or 
over  the  slippery  shingle  to  the  watering-place.  There 
they  are  filled,  and,  the  bungs  being  tightly  driven,  they 
are  rolled  back  to  the  beach,  rafted  together  a  second 
time,  and  finally  towed  back  to  the  ship,  where  several 
men  in  a  boat  pass  slings  around  them,  hook  on  the  yard- 
tackle,  and  they  are  hoisted  on  board. 

"We  find  but   one   small   coasting-vessel  at  anchor, 
though  the  consul  tells  us  that  he  has  seen  as  many  as  a 


ROCELLA   TINCTORIA.  17 

hundred  from  liis  parlour-'wiiidow,  most  of  whicli  were 
whalers.  We  are  told  that  the  only  article  with  which 
ships  are  ever  freighted  from  Porto  Praya  is  a  dye-wood, 
or  rather  dye-moss,  if  I  may  so  call  it.  It  is  of  the  lichen 
family,  grows  upon  the  rocks  and  trees  in  the  shape  of  a 
heavy,  dense  moss,  and  yields  a  rich  purple  colour.  This 
colour,  however,  though  beautiful  beyond  conception  in 
its  richness,  is,  unfortunately,  not  durable.  For  export  it 
is  bruised  between  stones  and  then  combined  with  lime 
and  urine.  Its  proper  name  is  Rocella  tinctoria,  and  the 
quantity  annually  exported  does  not  exceed  fifty  or  sixty 
tons  a  year. 

"Yesterday  Captain  Collins  called  away  his  gig,  gave 
out  that  he  was  going  on  shore,  and  ofiered  a  passage  to 
any  of  the  mess  who  might  feel  like  going  along.  So 
Purser  Ritchie  and  myself  took  advantage  of  it,  and  were 
pulled  to  the  landing.  We  then  indulged  in  a  hot  walk 
of  twenty  minutes  along  the  beach  and  up  the  stony  road 
of  the  bluff",  and  at  the  end  of  that  time  found  ourselves 
in  the  roomy  and  well-ventilated  apartments  of  the  Ame- 
rican Consulate. 

"  There  we  looked  around  in  vain  for  Mr.  Morse,  the 
acting  consul,  and  finally  settled  down  into  his  large  arm- 
chairs and  commenced  to  recover  a  reasonable  amount 
of  coolness ;  after  which  we  partook  of  his  stone-filtered 
water,  and,  despairing  of  his  speedy  return,  sallied  out 
to  accomplish  the  main  object  of  our  visit, — to  see  our 
washerwoman,  and  reimpress  it  upon  her  mind  that  our 
clothes  must  be  on  board  before  the  hour  of  sailing. 

"The  purser  and  myself  were  now  walking  through 
Porto  Praya  for  the  first  time,  while  the  captain,  being  an 


18  A   REMARKABLE    YOUNG    LADY. 

old  cruiser  on  the  African  station,  guided  us  through  the 
narrow  and  filthy  streets.  We  observed  that  the  houses 
were  mostly  built  of  rough  stone,  were  two-storied,  and 
possessed  of  a  singularly-unfinished  appearance.  They 
had  to  me  the  look  of  houses  that  had  been  hurriedly 
built  while  the  art  of  masonry  was  yet  in  its  infancy. 

"I  have  said  that  the  'streets  were  narrow  and  filthy;' 
they  were  also  disgraced  by  the  shameless  gambols  of 
naked  children  of  all  colours,  and  the  loitering  presence 
of  indolent,  half-dressed  adults  of  both  sexes.  One  of 
the  latter,  a  girl  of  at  least  fifteen,  and  clothed  in  the 
lightest  possible  style,  lounged  by  us  with  a  bold  and  inqui- 
sitive stare,  and  without  the  least  evidence  of  shame  or 
attempt  at  concealment. 

"A  walk  of  ten  minutes  through  such  streets  and 
scenes  as  these  took  us  to  our  journey's  end,  when  we 
entered  a  half-finished  house  of  rough  stone-masonry, 
and  were  presented  by  the  captain  to  three  females,  a 
mother  and  her  two  daughters, — old  friends  of  his,  and 
pro  tem.  our  washerwomen.  He  introduced  them  jest- 
ingly as  'one  of  the  first  families  of  the  place,'  and  gave 
as  his  reasons  that  the  mother  and  her  elder  daughter 
slept  on  a  bedstead  that  had  been  ordered  all  the  way 
from  Lisbon,  and  that  the  younger  one  had  married  the 
'military  commander'  of  the  place.  This  latter  was  a 
young  African,  an  advocate  of  the  long-cherished  desire 
of  some  of  our  ultra  abolitionists  for  the  amalgamation 
of  the  African  and  Caucasian  races,  and  was,  I  heard,  as 
noble  a  specimen  of  the  '  buck'  order  as  one  would  wish 
to  see. 

"I  looked  upon  the  olive  complexion,  the  sparkling 


OLD    IRONSIDES.  19 

eyes,  and  the  delicate  form  of  the  negro's  wife,  and  felt 
an  involuntary  prayer  rise  to  my  lips: — 'Lord,  that  such  a 
revolting  relationship  may  never  exist  in  the  great  world 
that  lies  over  the  Western  waters.'  She  was  the  first 
white  woman  I  had  ever  seen  wdio  had  placed  her  hand 
in  that  of  a  thick-lipped,  long-heeled  negro. 

"We  soon  concluded  our  business  and  again  continued 
our  walk.  We  saw  nothing  more  than  has  been  written 
of  by  dozens  of  previous  writers,  and  I  will  therefore  step 
at  once  upon  the  beach  on  our  return  to  the  boat.  We 
experienced  a  sense  of  indescribable  relief  as  we  left  the 
dirty  streets  and  thin  half-clad  occupants  behind  us,  and 
drew  long  breaths  of  the  freshening  sea-breeze  before  it 
had  been  contaminated  by  their  ever-exhaling  miasma. 

"  That  night  I  kept  the  mid-watch ;  and,  while  it  was 
rolling  slowly  by,  a  ship's  light  made  its  appearance 
around  the  point  to  seaward,  and  shortly  after  the  dark 
hull,  lofty  spars,  and  white  sails  of  a  frigate  loomed 
through  the  surrounding  gloom,  holding  her  steady  way 
across  our  stern. 

"  '  Ship  ahoy!'  hailed  a  hoarse  voice. 

"  '  Hillo  !'  I  answered. 

"  '  What  ship's  that  ?' 

"I  gave  our  name,  and  the  hoarse  voice  returned 
theirs. 

"  She  proved  to  be  the  United  States  frigate  Constitu- 
tion; old  Charles  Stewart's  bridge  to  his  Nelson-like 
reputation, — 'Old  Ironsides,'  as  she  was  aflractionately 
called  by  those  who  had  sailed  in  her  over  that  glorious 
path.  As  she  crossed  our  stern  and  rounded  to  on  our 
quarter,  she  burnt  a  blue-light  to  satisfy  herself  as  to  the 


20  A    FRIENDLY   SWELL. 

locality,  and  slione  out,  a  noble  specimen  of  the  concen- 
tration of  war's  power  on  tlie  sea,  while  the  lambent  flame 
lit  up  her  double  row  of  guns  and  brought  out  in  bold 
relief  her  dark  and  heavy  rigging. 

"The  next  day  Ave  talked  with  old  friends;  with  mess- 
mates of  bygone  years.  We  talked  of  our  wandering 
and  perilous  cruise,  of  the  strange  people  we  were  going 
to  see,  of  the  lapse  of  time,  and  of  our  final  return.  We 
talked  as  if  death  were  a  thing  of  the  past,  as  if  there 
was  no  possibility  of  his  striding  through  our  midst  and 
carrying  away  in  his  fleshless  grasp  hearts  that  then  beat 
strong  with  youth  and  the  glowing  hope  of  that  final 
return.  We  talked  of  all  this,  and  of  much  more,  and 
the  next  day  again  unfurled  our  sails  to  the  friendly 
trade-wind,  and  urged  our  old  ship  from  those  barren 
shores. 

"  The  breeze  falling  light  as  we  got  away  from  the 
land,  it  took  us  two  days  to  sink  the  peakof  Fogo  Island, 
which,  with  its  elevation  of  nine  thousand  seven  hundred 
and  fifty-nine  feet,  ofl'ers  a  beautiful  landmark  to  the 
navigator.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  however,  it  sank 
slowly  below  the  northern  board,  and  we  bade  adieu  to 
land  until  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  should  break  the  even 
surface  of  a  more  southern  horizon.  Things  now  went 
on  very  smoothly  until  we  had  crossed  the  line  and  ran 
to  the  southeast  trades,  when  we  fell  in  with  a  heavy  swell 
from  that  direction,  which  indicated  a  probable  gale. 
Warned  by  this  friendly  forerunner,  we  were  on  our 
guard,  and  when  it  came  it  found  us  ready.  Still,  we  had 
a  hard  time  of  it;  we  were  as  near  foundering  as  was 
pleasant,  and  came  out  of  it  with  the  loss  of  our  deck- 


'^f 


AN    OLD-FASHIONED    SEA.  21 

load, — a  heavy  loss  to  the  expedition,  as  it  consisted  of  all 
our  spare  spars. 

"  This  gale  itself  was  nothing  remarkable :  it  was  the 
really  awful  height  and  steepness  of  the  seas  that  alarmed 
us.  I  look  back  to  it  now  and  wonder  how  we  lived 
through  it,  and,  as  I  wonder,  I  shudder.  At  one  time  we 
took  on  board  such  a  sea  that  the  old  ship  hesitated  to 
lift  it  up ;  had  another  followed  it,  we  must  have  gone 
down.  It  was  time  to  think  of  lightening  her ;  so  we,  at 
the  risk  of  various  broken  legs,  cut  adrift  the  forty  tons 
of  deck-load,  and  managed  to  get  it  overboard  at  the  cost 
of  a  single  leg :  the  owner  of  that  one,  however,  made 
noise  enough  to  bring  up  the  doctor  without  his  hat,  who 
soon  abused  him  into  silence,  after  which  he  splintered 
it  with  tender  care,  and  got  him  comfortably  stowed  away 

in  a  cot.     Poor  H ,  rough  of  speech  and  tender  of 

heart!  "We  lingered  sadly  under  a  granite  shaft  which 
rears  itself  over  your  narrow  home  in  the  unknown  land 
of  the  Eastern  heathen. 

"At  the  end  of  three  days  the  weather  moderated, 
after  which  we  had  a  calm,  and,  finally,  a  fine  breeze  on 
the  quarter :  we  made  all  sail  and  boomed  away  towards 
our  longed-for  port. 

"No  one  can  tell  how  much  we  enjoyed  the  first  day's 
moderating  weather.  We  had  suflfered  so  terribly  during ' 
the  gale  from  the  effects  of  bilge-water  that  some  of  the 
mess  had  been  thrown  on  the  sick-list  by  it;  and,  now  that 
fair  weather  was  returned,  we  knew  its  fumes  would  settle 
down  with  the  sea.  It  had  a  fair  sweep  at  us  as  long  as 
the  gale  lasted;  for,  having  to  batten  down  all  of  the 
hatches,  we  were  without  both  light  and  air;  and  when 


22  BitGE-WATER. 

the  battens  were  at  length  removed,  the  hatches  opened, 
and  the  cool,  fresh  ocean  air,  and  the  bright  light  of  a 
sunny  day  permitted  to  enter  our  long-closed  apartments, 
we  found  that  our  white-paint-work  was  entirely  ruined. 
It  was  as  black  as  ink, — a  kind  of  blmsh  black, — and  most 
unpleasantly  damp  and  greasy  to  the  touch. 

"  Our  first  object  was  to  get  our  bedding  and  clothes 
up  on  deck  for  an  airing,  and  our  second  to  get  our  mess 
and  state-rooms  as  dry  and  free  from  bilge-water  as 
possible.  We  therefore  commenced  breaking  out  our 
clothes  ;  and  our  horror  may  be  imagined  when  we  found 
that  the  blackening  fumes  had  ruined  most  of  our  uni- 
forms, and  had  rendered  unfit  for  use  (previous  to  passing 
through  the  hands  of  the  w^asherwoman)  the  greater  part 
of  our  under-clothing.  A  cry  arose  as  general  as  that 
which  swelled  through  Egypt  for  the  loss  of  the  first- 
born: no  one  had  escaped.  Some  of  us  lost  hundreds  of 
dollars  from  the  effects  of  the  destroying  efiluvia;  all  had 
lost  something. 

"In  a  few  da3'^s  another  gale  crossed  our  path,  then 
another  calm,  then  another  fair  wind :  finally,  we  rubbed 
our  eyes  one  fine  morning  and  looked  upon  the  blue  out- 
lines of  Africa's  extreme  southern  point,  and  the  next 
day  we  were  well  in  with  the  land.  Here  we  were  again 
headed  off  by  a  three  days'  spell  of  bad  weather,  at  the 
expiration  of  which  we  stood  in  for  the  harbour  of  Si- 
mon's Town,  and  were  so  fortunate  as  to  pick  up  Mr.  John 
Koutze,  the  pilot,  who  took  us  into  a  snug  anchorage  just 
as  another  gale  was  beginning  to  sing  through  our  rig- 
ging. Wc  were  the  first  arrival:  they  knew  nothing  of 
the  rest  of  the  squadron." 


CHAPTER  n. 

WE  EECEIVE  A  VISIT  WHICH  IS  NOT  INTENDED  TO  INQUIRE  AFTER  OUR  HEALTH, 
AND  MAKE  THE  ACQUAINTANCE  OF  "LIEUTENANT  PAGET,  R.N.;"  AFTER 
WHICH  THE  PURSER  AND  MYSELF  "  SMELL  A  RAT"  AND  FIRE  AT  A  CATBIRD, 
TO  THE  INFINITE  TERROR  OF  SOME  HOTTENTOT  WOMEN. 

We  had  scarcely  let  go  our  anchor  when  we  were 
boarded  by  one  of  the  boats  of  the  English  frigate,  the 
officer  of  which  stepped  over  the  side  as  if  he  had  lately 
suffered  from  an  attack  of  rheumatism,  or  pride  of  birth, 
it  was  hard  to  say  which.  He  introduced  himself  as 
Lieutenant  Paget,  Royal  ISTavy,  and  was  immediately  con- 
ducted down  to  the  captain  by  the  affable  officer  of  the 
deck,  with  the  intention  of  making  him  known.  We 
found  the  captain  and  doctor  engaged  in  some  general 
conversation,  and  I  was  just  preparing  to  introduce  my 
friend  with  a  proper  amount  of  empressonent,  when  he  an- 
ticipated me : — "  Lieutenant  Paget,  sir,  of  the  Roj'al  Navy. 
Happy  to  see  you,  sir.  The  admiral's  compliments, — 
ahem!  ah! — " 

"Glad  to  see  you  on  board.  Lieutenant  Paget.  Permit 
me  to  present  to  you  Dr.  Hamilton,"  replied  the  captain, 
with  one  of  his  easy  smiles. 

Kow,  "Lieutenant  Paget"  must  have  thought  that  the 

captain  took  him  for  the  port  health-officer,  or  he  must 

have  been  greatly  wanting  in  politeness, — one  of  the  two ; 

for,  instead  of  shaldng  hands  with  the  man  of  pills,  or 

23 


24  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  SQUADRON. 

noticing  tlie  introduction  by  the  ramrod-like  bow  usual 
on  such  occasions,  he  gave  an  aflected  start,  and,  in  the 
drawling  tone  cultivated  by  many  would-be  high-bred 
Englishmen,  observed, — "  Ar-ar-rea-1-ly,  but — ar-r,  in  fact, 
ar-r — I  didn't  come — ar-r — to  inquire  after  the  health." 
After  which  he  indulged  in  a  few  quite  commonplace 
remarks,  drank  a  glass  of  wine,  and  was  bowed  over  the 
side.  The  doctor  subsequently  remarked,  in  a  confidential 
manner,  that  he  never  in  his  life  felt  more  like  doing  any 
thing  than,  at  that  moment,  like  knocking  his  confounded 
"ar-r-s"  down  his  cockney  throat:  nevertheless,  he  con- 
trolled himself,  and  left  the  cabin  in  a  high  state  of  dis- 
gust with  England,  the  English,  and  with  Lieutenant 
Paget,  R.N.,  in  particular. 

Two  days  after  our  arrival,  the  Vincennes  hove  in  sight, 
came  in  to  her  anchorage  very  prettily,  and  made  signal 
for  our  captain  to  repair  on  board.  Day  after  day  they 
now  dropped  in ;  first  the  little  Cooper,  then  the  Por- 
poise, and,  finally,  the  old  John  Hancock.  On  the  20th 
of  September  we  were  again  together. 

Then  it  was  that  we  discovered  the  dilapidated  condi- 
tion of  our  own  vessel ;  while  the  Vincennes,  Porpoise, 
and  Hancock  were  each  reported  as  being  in  want  of 
repairs.  We  commenced;  and  I  think,  before  the  last  bill 
was  sent  in,  the  repairs  of  the  "squadron"  must  have 
ranged  as  high  as  $20,000,  and  we  just  from  the  out- 
fitting care  of  the  navy-yards  of  New  York  and  Norfolk. 

While  all  this  work  was  going  on,  and  we  necessarily 
detained  in  our  sheltered  anchorage,  Purser  Ritchie  and 
myself  one  day  took  it  into  our  heads  to  take  a  tramp 
over  the  hills  in  search  of  some  unfortunate  antelope, 


OLD    BUST-PROOF.  25 

"  hundreds"  of  which,  we  had  been  told,  were  easily  to  be 
found.  Stimpson,  the  energetic  naturalist  of  the  Viu- 
cennes,  had  also  spoken  of  several  flocks  of  quail;  and  we 
therefore  looked  forward  to  returning  with  any  quantity 
of  game.  The  purser  had  a  shaky^-looking  seventeen- 
dollar  American  gun,  that  he  had  bought  to  destroy  can- 
vas-back ducks  with  on  the  Chesapeake  Bay  some  years 
back,  and  I  was  provided  in  pretty  much  the  same  style; 
the  only  difference  lieing  that  mine  had  been  bought 
several  years  later,  and  for  ovAj fifteen  dollars.  We  were 
jested  unmercifully  by  the  mess  whenever  we  appeared 
with  those  dangerous  weapons,  and  so  always  found  it 
convenient  to  get  off"  upon  our  hunts  as  quietly  as  pos- 
sible. This  being  our  first  attempt,  we  were  off  our 
guard,  and  came  in  for  an  extra  allowance :  — 

"There  go  the  two  Mmrods!  !N"ow  we'll  feast  on 
game !"  exclaimed  a  disagreeably-loud  voice, — so  loud 
that  the  whole  mess  were  at  once  upon  us. 

"Just  see  how  the  purser  shoulders  old  bust-proof!" 
exclaimed  a  sarcastic  voice. 

"Habersham,  you'd  better  walk  astern  of  old  bust- 
proof:  he'll  go  off  backwards  with  the  first  heavy  load," 
remarked  a  voice  of  friendly  caution. 

"That  wont  make  it  any  better  for  the  purser,"  re- 
marked another.  "Habersham's  gun  only  cost  fifteen 
dollars,  and  is  warranted  to  shoot  through  both  ends." 

Through  these  and  similar  salutations  we  ran  the 
gauntlet  of  our  admiring  messmates,  turned  a  deaf  ear 
to  all  that  we  were  not  forced  to  hear,  and,  finally,  found 
ourselves  stowed  away  in  the  stern-sheets  of  the  dingy 
and   out  of  reach  of  their   attentions.     The  dingy  was 


26  DANGEKOUSLY  TIGHT  TROUSERS. 

pulled  by  two  very  small  boys  encased  iu  very  tight 
trousers,  who  got  us  on  shore  after  a  while  by  the 
greatest  exertion,  and  then  returned  despondingly  on 
board  to  repair  damages. 

We  at  once  made  for  the  hill-side  and  commenced 
beating  the  bush  for  antelope  with  the  most  "new-broom"- 
like  energy ;  and,  to  have  seen  us  as  we  thus  started,  one 
would  have  thought  that  we  were  following  a  most 
reliable  pointer,  and  that  we  were  expecting  a  bird  to 
rise  under  our  noses  at  every  step,  so  ready  were  our 
guns  and  so  watchful  were  our  eyes.  As  I  now  look 
back  upon  that  tramp  and  recall  its  various  drawbacks, 
it  seems  without  exception  the  most  disagreeable  thing 
of  the  kind  that  I  ever  undertook.  Such  a  total  absence 
not  only  of  game  but  even  of  animal  life !  and  such  walk- 
ing as  it  was  along  the  sides  of  those  rugged  hills !  I  shall 
never  forget  the  feeling  of  satisfaction  with  w^hich  I  went 
to  bed  that  night. 

Imagine  the  sloping  side  of  a  mountain-range  three 
miles  in  length,  covered  by  a  thick  undergrowth  reaching 
up  to  one's  shoulders ;  millions  of  loose  round  stones 
underfoot ;  stationary  rocks  in  the  shape  of  o'erhanging 
clifl's  and  huge  boulders  around  and  overhead;  deep 
ravines  every  one  or  two  hundred  yards,  running  from 
the  ridge  to  the  sea, — a  regular  alternation  of  ridge  and 
ravine ;  and  imagine  us  walking  over  those  loose  stones 
which  we  could  not  see,  and  through  those  thick  and 
tangled  bushes  which  we  could  just  see  over,  and  one 
has  a  very  fair  idea  of  the  "hard  road"  which  we  had  to 
travel.  And  travel  it  we  did,  with  a  pelting  rain  and  strong 
wind  in  our  faces,  and  growing  disgust  in  our  hearts. 


FINE-CUT.  27 

After  thus  walking  along  the  side  of  this  rocky  moun- 
tain for  a  mile  or  more,  and  just  as  disgust  had  grown 
about  as  strong  as  expectation,  we  stopped  under  the  lee 
of  one  of  the  huge  boulders,  to  draw  a  moment's  breath 
and  wonder  where  all  the  antelope  could  be,  and  where 
the  ground  w^as  upon  which  Stimpson  had  started  a  flock 
of  quail  and  killed  ten  of  them. 

Now,  while  we  were  thus  wondering  without  deriving 
the  slightest  satisfaction  from  it,  we  noticed  a  gentleman 
of  Hottentot  visage  approaching  us  with  a  spy-glass  in  his 
right  hand,  through  which  he  had  probably  long  since 
satisfied  himself  as  to  the  likelihood  of  our  being  persons 
who  carried  tobacco ;  for  he  had  no  sooner  joined  us  and 
made  a  polite  bow,  than  he  commenced  to  express  him- 
self at  some  length  in  favour  of  the  consumption  of  said 
article,  and  ended  by  indicating  a  perfect  readiness  on  his 
part  to  accept  a  small  piece  of  it,  "if  we  happened  to 
have  any."  The  fact  of  this  personage  living  in  an  Eng- 
lish colony  will  account  for  his  speaking  the  language. 

I  had  a  small  tobacco-box  in  my  pocket  containing 
a  quantity  of  John  Anderson  &  Co.'s  "fine-cut;"  and 
that  I  offered  freely,  knowing  how  much  one  often  longs 
for  a  single  "  chew,"  and  hoping,  moreover,  to  loosen  the 
honest  strings  of  his  tongue  in  regard  to  the  whereabouts 
of  the  game. 

I  was  right  in  both  my  impression  as  to  his  longing  for 
a  chew  and  as  to  the  loosening  of  his  tongue  in  regard 
to  the  game,  though  I  cannot  say  much  for  the  amount 
of  honesty  about  this  latter.  He  glanced  doubtingly  at 
the  fine-threaded  preparation  at  first,  but  had  no  sooner 
carried  it  to  his  nose  than  his  whole  face  relaxed  into  a 


28  AN   ADMIRER    OF   AMERICANS. 

confiding  smile  of  the  utmost  complacency,  under  cover 
of  which  he  put  at  least  half  of  my  supply  into  his  capa- 
cious mouth,  and  was  at  once  seized  with  a  severe  fit  of 
coughing,  the  result  of  his  being  unacquainted  with  the 
particular  knack  of  using  that  valuable  but  likely-to- 
choke-you  luxury.  Then,  after  recovering  himself  in  a 
measure,  and  with  a  face  that  would  doubtless  have  been 
red  had  it  not  been  almost  black  naturally,  he  com- 
menced to  tell  us  that  "  between  the  spot  on  which  we 
stood  and  the  house  of  Mr.  John  Koutze,  the  pilot,  there 
was  no  lack  of  game,  but  that  a  great  difficulty  some- 
times existed  in  finding  it;  that  he  felt  confident,  how- 
ever, that,  in  spite  of  this  difficulty,  we  could,  by  continu- 
ing our  walk  a  mile  or  two  farther,  start  up  several 
spring-boke  and  any  number  of  quail:  he  himself  had 
just  passed  over  the  ground  and  seen  several."  He 
ended  by  telling  us  most  emphatically,  and  with  an  air 
of  great  apparent  candour,  that  "he  liked  Americans," 
and  that  we  might  thank  our  nationality  for  the  informa- 
tion just  received.  Englishmen,  he  said,  were  "  no  good," 
but  Americans — ah ! — he  sighed  a  deep  sigh,  which,  com- 
bined with  a  look, — such  a  look ! — was  doubtless  intended 
to  produce  another  chew ;  but  the  purser  and  myself  had 
both  been  around  Cape  Horn  already,  and  were  now 
rounding  that  of  Good  Hope ;  so  the  box  remained  un- 
opened. 

At  first  we  thought  that  by  "spring-boke"  he  must 
mean  the  ordinary  African  hare ;  but,  upon  our  intimating 
as  much,  he  hooted  at  the  idea,  assuring  us  that  "  he  no 
speky  lie,"  and  that  they  stood  as  high  as  the  knee,  and 
had  horns.    At  this  we  concluded  they  must  be  antelope ; 


SMELLING   A    RAT.  29 

and,  upon  his  saying  that  he  had  heard  them  called  by 
that  name,  expectation  put  disgust  to  a  precipitate  flight, 
imparted  fresh  vigour  to  our  limbs,  and  carried  us  bravely 
over  the  huge  potato-patch. 

During  this  time  we  saw  one  rat;  and,  just  as  we  had 
crossed  a  deep  ravine  and  were  looking  up  at  the  rugged 
path  we  were  called  upon  to  ascend,  we  smcU  another :  we 
began  to  think  we  had  been  humbugged ;  and  so  disgust 
rallied,  overcame  expectation  beyond  further  hope,  and 
caused  us  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  down  the  ravine 
to  the  beach,  along  which  ran  a  fine  hard  road  from 
Simonstown  to  the  pilot's  country  residence. 

Once  clear  of  the  rough  walking,  we  gave  up  all  idea 
of  hunting  farther,  and,  remembering  an  invitation  which 
Mr.  Koutze  had  extended  to  us  to  visit  him,  took  it  lei- 
surely along  towards  his  cottage. 

Now,  however,  that  we  were  no  longer  hunting,  it 
seemed  that  we  were  to  begin  to  burn  powder ;  for  we  had 
not  walked  a  hundred  j^ards  along  our  fine  road,  before 
it  took  us  across  a  little  rivulet  that  followed  the  wind- 
ings of  one  of  those  interminable  ravines,  crossed  the 
road,  and  then  disappeared  through  the  thick  bushes, 
down,  down,  into  the  most  snaky-looking  locality  that 
we  had  yet  seen. 

"Hillo!  there's  a  catbird!"  exclaimed  Eitchie,  in  an 
excited  whisper. 

"Where?"  I  asked,  in  the  same  tone. 

"Where?    In  the  bushes!     Don't  you  see  him?" 

"No,  I  don't!" 

"ISTor  I  either,  now!  confound  it!  He's  got  away.  Sup- 
pose you  fire  into  the  bushes  at  random  and  let  me  take 


30  COME   ON,    MAN. 

him  on  the  wing  as  he  comes  out.  We  must  carry  some- 
thing back  at  any  rate." 

So  I  fired  into  the  bushes ;  and  oh !  such  a  scream  as 
saluted  our  afi'righted  ears  in  return  !  one  would  have 
thought  that  half  the  women  in  Africa  had  been  shot  all 
over  except  in  their  tongues  and  throats,  and  that  the 
other  half  were  helping  them  to  scream. 

"  There !  now  you've  done  it !"  exclaimed  my  instigator, 
as  he  took  to  his  heels  and  ran  with  a  speed  indicating 
any  thing  but  his  having  tired  himself  over  the  potato- 
patch.     '■'■Come  on,  man !" 

I  did  not  wait  for  a  second  invitation,  but  followed 
his  example  with  the  spasmodically-braced  muscles  of 
alarmed  excitement.  We  really  thought  I  might  have 
killed  some  one ;  and  the  cruelty  of  running  away  with- 
out rendering  him,  her,  or  them,  any  aid  that  might  have 
been  in  our  power,  did  not  strike  us  until  after  we  had 
put  several  hundred  yards  between  us :  then  we  called  a 
halt,  concluded  to  return,  and  did  so  nearly  as  fast  as  we 
had  left. 

We  found  that  I  had  fired  pellmell  in  among  a  dozen 
or  more  Hottentot  washerwomen,  without  drawing  a 
drop  of  blood  or  otherwise  harming  them,  except  by  a 
slight  stinging;  and,  when  we  had  acknowledged  the 
mistake,  they  rubbed  themselves,  seemed  perfectly  satis- 
fied, and  went  quietly  on  with  their  washing,  while  we 
bade  them  a  smiling  adieu  and  continued  on  our  way  to 
the  pilot's.  He  received  us  quite  warmly,  treated  us  to 
as  much  pure  fresh  milk,  butter,  and  bread  as  we  could 
dispose  of,  showed  us  all  through  his  whaling  establish- 
ment, and  ended  by  asldng  us  to  dinner.     This  latter  we 


THE    RETURN.  31 

declined,  however,  as  it  was  getting  late  and  our  walk 
was  long ;  but  we  consented  to  a  second  attack  upon  the 
before-mentioned  viands,  plus  a  glass  of  fine  old  rum, 
during  the  discussion  of  which  he  found  time  to  assure 
us  that  there  w^ere  not,  had  not  been  for  years,  and  were 
never  again  expected  to  appear,  a  dozen  quail  on  that 
side  of  the  mountain,  and  that  as  for  "spring-boke,"  tlwj 
never  crossed  the  ridge, — a  piece  of  information  rather 
calculated  to  strengthen  a  suspicion  as  to  the  veracity  of 
our  Hottentot  friend  which  had  assailed  our  minds  at  the 
time  of  our  "  smelling  a  rat." 

We  now  started  upon  our  return,  but  had  not  walked 
five  minutes  before  we  were  overtaken  by  about  the 
hardest  shower  of  rain  that  I  ever  stood  under;  and  I  do 
really  believe  that  if  the  gentleman  of  colour  who  ex- 
pressed himself  so  freely  in  favour  of  Americans  had 
passed  at  that  moment,  he  would  have  been  startled,  by 
an  explosion  of  fire-arms  and  a  sharp  pain  about  six 
inches  below*  his  waist,  into  a  far  difi:erent  conclusion  as 
to  American  character ;  at  the  same  time  that  the  purser 
would  have  found  himself  minus  a  load  of  powder,  a  cap, 
two  patent  wads,  and  an  ounce  or  more  of  mustard-seed 
shot.  Fortune  favoured  him,  however,  and  he  went  to 
bed(?)  that  night  weighing  some  half-ounce  less  than  if 
we  had  met.  We  reached  the  ship  just  before  dark,  and 
stepped  at  once  into  a  perfect  hotbed  of  annoying  obser- 
vations. 

"Hillo!  here  comes  old  bust-proof  and  his  master," 
said  one. 

"And  Habersham  and  his  fifteen-dollar  gun!"  ex- 
claimed another. 


32  ODORLESS    FLOWERS. 

"And  not  a  feather!"  put  iu  a  third.  "Fine  hunters 
you  are,  to-be-sure."  And  thus  were  we  passed  around, 
until  I  really  began  to  feel  rather  small  and  cheap  than 
otherwise. 

"Now,  stop  your  talking  for  a  moment,"  said  the 
purser,  "while  I  tell  you  of  our  hunt."  He  then 
gave  them  a  very  flowing  account  of  it,  imitated  the 
screaming  part  to  perfection,  and  ended  pretty  much  as 
follows  : — 

"We  saw  during  that  tramp  much  more  than  you  did 
who  remained  on  board.  We  saw  hard  walking,  oceans 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  brilliant,  but  odorless,  wild 
flowers,  huge  rocks  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  present 
sea-level,  the  general  form  and  appearance  of  which 
indicated  beyond  a  doubt  that  they  had  been  at  some 
remote  period  subjected  to  the  wearing  action  of  a  con- 
stant surf.  Hence,  one  may  reasonably  conclude  that 
the  sea  has  retired,  or  that  the  rocks  have  been  lifted  to 
their  present  elevation  by  some  powerful  convulsion  of 
nature.  We  saw  all  of  this  and  much  more,  not  forget- 
ting the  catbird  and  the  terrified  females;  and  what  is 
there  more  distressingly  beautiful  than  terrified  females 
(pretty  ones,  I  mean)  upon  the  verge  of  several  fainting- 
fits?" 

He  stopped  for  want  of  breath,  gave  old  bust-proof  to 
his  boy  to  clean,  and  retired  into  his  den  amidst  the 
cheers  of  the  audience. 

There  were  two  things  that  surprised  us  greatly  on  our 
arrival  at  this  port,  and  those  were  the  almost  total  ab- 
sence of  natural  trees  of  every  description,  and  the  great 
abundance  of  sweet  oranges.     Though   able  from  our 


A    MOST    APPROPRIATE    NAME.  33 

mast-head  to  overlook  quite  an  extensive  section  of  the 
southern  point  of  Africa,  and  see  natural  shrubs  and  un- 
dergrowth in  abundance,  I  much  doubt  if  the  e^^e  could 
have  rested  upon  a  dozen  trees  which  had  not  been  trans- 
planted. 

Some  of  the  shore  mechanics,  however,  who  were  work- 
ing on  board,  told  us  that  there  was  no  lack  of  timber 
farther  down  the  coast,  and  that  it  existed  in  considerable 
variety.  The  kind  most  esteemed  by  them  for  working 
into  vessels  is  something  between  the  teak  of  India  and 
the  live  oak  of  Georgia  and  Florida ;  but  there  is  a  w^ide 
difference  in  one  respect,  i.  e.  in  the  smell,  which  places 
it  entirely  out  of  the  power  of  even  the  most  superficial 
observer  to  confound  it  with  either.  "When  moist,  this 
smell  is  absolutely  sickening ;  and,  if  you  attempt  to  burn 
it  while  in  that  condition,  the  fumes  drive  all,  even  the 
most  seasoned  noses,  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
fire.  I  can  give  no  idea  of  that  odour,  unless  it  be  by 
comparing  it  to  a  combination  of  sulphur  and  assafoetida, 
and  even  that  does  not  do  it  justice. 

On  account  of  this  peculiar  property,  the  early  settlers 
indorsed  it  with  a  name  which  will  not  bear  translation 
into  the  English  of  the  present  day,  but  which,  a  hundred 
years  since,  when  people  were  not  so  particular,  would 
have  been  called  "ye  stinke-woode;"  and  this  I  regard  as 
the  most  appropriate  of  names,  inasmuch  as  it  gives  you 
a  better  idea  of  the  wood  than  could  otherwise  be  ob- 
tained, except  through  the  medium  of  the  sense  of  smell, 
— a  source  of  information  to  which  no  one  has  ever  been 
known  to  apply  twice. 

The  Mandarin  orange  of  China,  as  well  as  the  well- 


34  THE   TWO    TOWNS. 

known  species  of  the  West  Indies,  flourish  here  in  great 
perfection, — a  rather  singular  fact  when  the  latitude  is 
taken  into  consideration.  As  far  as  my  own  experience 
carries  me,  the  northern  shore  of  the  Mediterranean  and 
this  extremity  of  Africa  are  the  only  high  latitudes  where 
this  fruit  is  cultivated  in  the  open  air. 

Simon's  Town  and  Cape  Town — the  former  situated  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  the  latter 
on  its  w^est  side — are  the  two  settlements  of  the  English 
on  this  extremity  of  the  continent,  and  are  often  con- 
founded. They  are,  notwithstanding,  separated  by  the 
entire  width  of  the  promontory,  which  is  there  some 
twenty  miles  wdde,  and  are  totally  different;  Cape  Town 
being  the  door  through  which  pass  both  exports  and  im- 
ports, while  Simon's  Town  is  sm\\)ly  a  naval  station,  and,  like 
all  other  naval  stations,  a  small  town  has  spread  itself 
around  the  -walls  of  the  dock-yard :  7iothmg  more. 

Unlike  most  English  ports,  we  found  this  latter  without 
a  good  beef-market.  The  article  can  be  obtained  in  any 
quantity,  but  its  poor  quality  renders  that  fact  almost  a 
misfortune.  In  the  w^ords  of  the  doctor,  "a  little  of  it 
went  a  great  way."  We  seldom  had  it  on  the  mess-table, 
therefore,  but  devote^  ourselves  to  the  mutton,  which 
was  equally  plentiful,  cheap,  and  certainly  the  best  mut- 
ton I  ever  ate, — that  of  even  the  Valley  of  Virginia  not 
excepted. 

The  population  of  Simon's  Town  is  only  several  hundred, 
who  live  in  some  eighty  or  a  hundred  neatly- whitewashed 
houses  that  presented  a  striking  contrast  to  those  w^e  had 
lately  left  at  Porto  Praya.  Among  them  I  counted  four 
churches,  five  government  buildings,  sixteen  grog-shops, 


THE    CAPE    MALAY.  35 

three  taverns,  &c.  &c.  I  don't  know,  therefore,  that  I  can 
well  give  the  place  a  name  for  any  great  morality ;  for, 
while  four  churches  require  a  certain  amount  of  true  or 
worldly  religion  to  keep  them  up,  the  sixteen  grog-shops, 
the  three  hotels,  and  the  &c.  &cs.,  call  for  even  a  greater 
amount  of  sin  and  dissipation.  Each  one  of  the  churches 
to  which  I  have  alluded  was  the  place  of  worship  of 
different  denominations.  In  the  first  place,  there  was 
the  Church  of  England,  composed  of  most  of  the  "first 
people  of  the  place," — evidently  the  fashionable  church,  the 
place  where  the  richest  dresses  and  the  brilliant  uniforms 
were  to  be  seen.  Then  came  the  Mormons,  with  their 
seducing  doctrines;  next  the  Methodists;  and  both  last 
and  least  came  the  Roman  Catholics.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Mormons',  these  churches  are  attended  by 
persons  of  all  classes ;  but  the  prolific  followers  of 
Joseph  Smith,  with  very  few  exceptions,  have  succeeded 
in  turning  from  the  way  of  darkness  (?)  only  members  of 
a  certain  race.  The  "  Cape  Malay,"  a  people  of  whom  I 
had  never  heard  before  our  arrival,  grasped  eagerly  at 
the  demoralizing  doctrine  of  a  plurality  of  wives,  and 
crowded  around  the  sacred  men  who  could  uncurb  the 
bit  of  sensuality  and  render  null  and  void  the  restrain- 
ing laws  of  bigamy. 

And  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Holmes,  the  American 
consul  at  Cape  Town,  that,  although  the  converts  to  that 
creed  were  generally  persons  of  no  individual  influence, 
still,  from  the  simple  fact  of  the  contagion  spreading  far 
and  wide,  it  was  rapidly  becoming  of  importance  from 
the  sheer  force  of  numbers.  The  same  gentleman  also 
informed   me  that   upon  the  first   arrival  of  the   two 


36  MORMONISM    IN   AFKICA. 

"  elders"  at  Cape  Town  they  had  paid  him  a  visit,  wishing 
him,  as  the  American  consul,  (they  themselves  being 
Americans,  who  had  been  sent  from  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
to  "preach  the  word,")  to  back  them  up  with  his  counte- 
nance through  the  colony,  and  that  he  had  been  forced 
to  politely  deny  their  request.  He  did  not  tell  me,  how- 
ever, that  he  had  said  to  them,  "Well,  gentlemen,  your 
request  is  rather  a  singular  oue ;  but  if  you  will  return  to- 
morrow you  shall  have  an  answer."  And  he  further 
neglected  to  tell  me  what  that  answer  was.  "I  have 
thought  seriously  over  your  very  singular  request,  Messrs. 
Mormons,"  he  said,  "and  I  think  it  a  humbug,  (your  reli- 
gion, I  mean;)  and,  as  the  representative  of  the  great 
American  people,  I  can't  support  a  humbug.  Good-morn- 
ing, gentlemen!" 

And  this  last  interpretation  of  the  affair  I  got  from  a 
married  friend  of  his,  who  seemed  to  think  that  Mrs.  H. 
had  had  something  to  say  about  the  Mormons  and  their 
institutions  during  the  night  which  followed  their  first 
interview  with  him.  So  much  for  the  commencement  of 
Mormonism  in  Africa. 


CHAPTER  in. 

•WR  MAKE  TIP  A  PARTY  TO  VISIT  CAPE  TOWN,  AND  TAKE  OUR  SEATS  IN  A  CHARIOT 

WE    BEAD    POETRY    IN    FOUR    LANGUAGES,   AND  THINK  THAT  IT  MUST  BE  A 

FINE  THING  TO  BE  A  MORMON — WE  MAKE  THE  ACQUAINTANCE  OF  AN  EAGER 
GENTLEMAN,  AND  CONCEIVE  A  HIGH  IDEA  OF  THE  HOSPITALITY  OF  CAPE 
TOWN 

After,  having  been  a  week  or  more  at  anchor,  several 
of  us  concluded  to  pay  a  visit  to  Cape  Town.  A  party  was 
therefore  made  up,  consisting  of  Dr.  Stuart,  of  the  Por- 
poise, Lieutenant  Bliss,  of  the  "Old  John,"  and  Mr,  Lea 
and  myself,  from  the  Kennedy.  Our  mode  of  conveyance 
consisted  of  a  two-wheeled  vehicle,  a  Dutch  driver  by  the 
name  of  Peter,  four  fearfully-rawboned  animals  that  had 
four  legs  each  and  were  evidently  more  like  horses  than 
any  thing  else,  and  a  certain  amount  of  traces,  bridles, 
reins,  and  whips.  This  uncertain  "turn-out"  was  digni- 
fied by  the  name  of  the  "Mail-coach," — a  high-sounding 
title  which  had  alone  carried  confidence  to  our  unsuspect- 
ing hearts  and  caused  us  to  'pay  for  our  seats  in  advance. 
And  now,  when  I  add  that  this  "mail-coach"  was  with- 
out springs,  just  like  an  old  ox-cart,  and  that  nine  unfor- 
tunates were  crowded  into  it,  some  skeptic  may  be  so 
bold  as  to  say  that  a  two-wheeled  vehicle  without  springs, 
and  drawn  by  horses,  would  be  apt  to  spill  said  nine  un- 
fortunates out  of  its  stern  while  being  hauled  up  a  hill ; 
and  so,  for  the  information  of  that  awful  class  of  society, 
I  will  add  yet  something  more  about  our  vehicle. 

37 


38  t'other  holds  t'other  up. 

True,  it  only  had  two  wheels :  but  then  an  ox-cart  ha8 
no  more;  and  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  this  latter  can- 
not tilt  backw^ards — turn  a  half  back-somerset — without 
entailing  serious  inconvenience  on  the  oxen  that  draw  it. 

"Yes,  but  oxen  are  yoked,  and  horses  are  hitched,'" 
remarks  the  skeptic. 

"Not  always,  by  any  means,"  is  my  reply.  The  oxen 
with  us  are  yoked  to  their  carts,  and  at  the  Cape  the  carts 
are  yoked  to  the  horses :  that's  the  only  difference.  It  sounds 
singular,  truly ;  yet,  let  us  see  how  they  accomplish  it. 

In  our  case,  the  four  animals  were  hitched  up  exactly 
as  four  horses  are  generally  attached  to  a  wagon,  with  the 
single  addition  of  a  curved  and  flat  bar  of  iron,  which 
was  secured  to  the  pole  just  back  of  the  fore-legs  of  the 
after-ones,  and  which  fit  under  them  just  as  snugly  as 
the  half  of  a  hoop  would  around  a  barrel. 

And  thus  much  for  the  ingenious  peculiarities  of  the 
"mail-coach"  that  ran  daily  between  Simon's  Town  and 
Cape  Town,  and  in  which  we  were  induced  to  "  make 
ourselves  comfortable"  when  we  saw  that  there  was  no 
help  for  it. 

It  was  not  long  before  I  was  struck  with  the  ingenious- 
ness  of  the  foregoing  device  for  preserving  the  parallelism 
of  two  planes ;  but  I  could  not  help  hinting  to  Peter  of  a 
fear  which  had  arisen  with  it  in  my  mind  as  to  the  con- 
sequences which  might  result  in  case  of  a  stumble. 

"Lord  bless  you,  sir!"  was  his  reply:  "vy,  that's  the 
very  time  ven  it  comes  in.  Don't  you  see,  it  a' n't  likely  as 
how  they'll  both  fall  at  oncet?  and  so  t'other  holds  t'other 
up."  I  was  struck  with  the  force  of  his  argument,  and, 
lighting  a  cigar,  began  to  make  notes  of  things  in  general 


PETER.  39 

as  they  crossed  our  heav}-  path.  And  now  I  will  show 
the  reader  how  it  was  that  we  got  into  our  singular 
vehicle,  and  how  the  "animals"  were  persuaded  to  make 
a  start. 

It  was  at  the  Fountain  Inn,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
mail-coach  line,  that  we  had  agreed  to  rendezvous ;  and, 
having  assembled  there  at  sunrise  on  the  appointed  morn- 
ing, we  exchanged  four  shillings  sterling  for  as  many 
cups  of  warm  water,  about  seven  grains  of  coffee,  half  an 
ounce  of  rancid  butter,  and  four  slices  of  stale  bread, 
which  we  called  breakfast;  and  then,  providing  ourselves 
with  a  bunch  of  Manilla  cheroots  each,  climbed  up  to  our 
seats,  and  told  Peter  that  he  was  at  liberty  to  "  crack  his 
whip." 

Upon  receiving  this  piece  of  information,  the  individual 
to  whom  it  was  addressed  produced  a  strange  sound, 
somewhat  between  a  whistle,  a  grunt,  and  an  exclama- 
tion of  surprise,  which,  much  to  our  astonishment,  acted 
like  a  charm  upon  the  four  raw-boned  animals.  Without 
waiting  to  impart  a  gradual  motion  to  the  "  coach,"  they 
started  it  with  a  jump ;  and,  since  Jupiter,  the  goddess 
of  Fortune,  or  some  youthful  member  of  the  rising  genera- 
tion, had  put  a  large  stone  immediately  in  front  of  our 
left  wheel,  we  started  with  a  most  awful  jolt,  which,  on 
account  of  the  absence  of  springs,  was  enabled  to  give 
the  warm  water,  grains  of  coffee,  stale  bread,  and  half- 
ounce  of  rancid  butter,  a  very  fair  idea  of  what  they  had 
to  expect  should  our  road  prove  rough. 

By  the  time  we  had  driven  a  mile,  both  the  doctor  and 
myself  were  on  very  sociable  terms  with  our  Saxon 
driver ;  and,  before  I  proceed  any  further  in  this  veritable 


40  THAWING    PETER. 

narration,  I  will,  for  the  benefit  of  all  unfortunate  "  mail- 
coach"  passengers,  relate  the  devices  we  resorted  to  to 
overcome  his  lofty  reserve  of  manner, — L  e.  the  stupid  air 
of  importance  which  small  people  filling  small  stations 
often  assume  towards  better  people  who  are  for  the  time- 
being  at  their  mercy.  Who  is  there  who  at  some  time 
has  not  been  offended,  has  not  had  his  comfort  uselessly 
interfered  with,  by  the  conductor  of  a  railroad,  the  mate 
of  a  mail-steamer,  or  the  driver  of  a  "mail-coach"  ? 

In  the  first  place,  then,  knowing  that  I  was  driving  over 
a  strange  road  with  a  hungry  note-book  in  my  pocket,  I 
saw  the  necessity  of  being  on  communicative  terms  with 
some  person  who  could  answer  questions ;  and,  as  Peter 
was  the  only  one  in  the  coach  who  could  answer  said 
questions,  he  "  was  the  man"  to  be  thawed.  Now,  as  soon 
as  I  had  brought  the  doctor  to  my  way  of  thinking,  we 
commenced  the  attack,  I  being  armed  with  the  ability  to 
drive  even  four  "animals"  in  hand,  and  with  a  bunch 
of  cheroots ;  while  the  great  medicine-man  shook  aloft  a 
much  more  terrible  weapon  of  offence  in  the  shape  of  a 
pocket-pistol, — not  one  of  the  murdering  inventions  of 
Messrs.  Sharpe,  Colt,  or  Allen,  but  a  reasonable,  single- 
barrelled  fellow,  who  only  had  one  true  aim,  which  was  to 
keep  always  full  of  good  old  brandy. 

With  these  as  our  weapons,  we  soon  overcame  the 
enemy's  reserve,  I  having  offered  to  drive  for  him  while 
he  poured  out  the  doctor's  brandy,  and  subsequently 
handed  him  a  cigar  with  an  overcoming  suavity  of  man- 
ner. Our  ammunition  was  not  half  expended  before  his 
face  was  wreathed  in  smiles  and  his  tongue  loosened  into 
absolute  loquaciousness. 


Peter's  grievances.  41 

""What!"  he  exclaimed,  iu  answer  to  a  question  which 
the  doctor  now  hazarded, — *'  what !  Don't  you  know  what 
that  fence  is  made  of?" 

The  doctor  puffed  his  cheroot,  and  assured  his  "Chris- 
tian friend"  that  he  was  indeed  in  a  state  of  blissful 
ignorance  as  to  the  material  of  which  it  w^as  composed. 

"  Why,  them's  whale-iihs,  and  they  lasts  longer  than 
any  wood  you  can  find." 

"Do  they,  indeed?"  smiled  the  man  of  pills;  but  he 
said  nothing.  It  is  astonishing  how  far  a  pleasant  smile 
will  go.  This  one  seemed  to  tickle  Peter  amazingly  :  he 
again  indulged  in  the  strange  sound  which  we  had  heard 
at  starting,  and  then  his  tongue  ran  from  subject  to  sub- 
ject with  amazing  agility.  At  last  he  came  down  to  his 
domestic  affairs,  and  every  one  in  the  coach  was  soon 
aware  of  the  following  facts  connected  with  them. 

Peter  was  a  married  man.  Peter  had  no  children. 
Peter  never  expected  to  have  any  children.  Peter's  w^ife 
didn't  love  him.  Peter  never  went  home  more  than  once 
a  year.  Peter  was  a  new  and  zealous  advocate  of  the 
Mormon  doctrine.  Peter  thought  that  woman  was  made 
for  man,  and  not  man  for  woman.  And  last,  but  not 
least  apparently,  Peter  was  desperately  in  love  with  a 
feminine  whose  name  was  not  Mrs.  Peter. 

About  the  time  that  he  had  enlightened  us  thus  far, 
the  "mail-coach"  came  to  a  halt  in  front  of  a  most  sin- 
gular sign.  It  was  at  least  ten  feet  square,  and  hung  from 
a  long  pole  that  projected  over  the  door  of  an  unpretend- 
ing wayside  inn.  It  "was  intended  to  tell  the  traveller 
all  that  he  had  to  expect,  without  putting  him  to  the 
trouble  of  asking  questions.     On  its  double  faco.  there  was 


42  THE   GENTLE    SHEPHERD    OF    SALISBURY    PLAIN. 

painted  a  house,  in  the  open  window  of  which  stood  a  half- 
emptied  bottle  and  an  inverted  glass :  the  door  also  was 
open,  supposed  to  be  the  exponent  of  the  boundless  hospi- 
tality which  awaited  the  wayfarer  upon  entering.  There 
was  also  on  its  face  the  figure  of  a  Charles  11.  cavalier, 
with  a  shepherd's  crook  in  his  w^arlike  hand,  and  a  most 
feline-looking  dog  crouching  at  his  feet.  There  was, 
moreover,  a  horseshoe  nailed  on  its  bottom-edge,  to  scare 
away  all  Dutchmen's  ghosts;  two  verses  of  poetry  in  the 
centre,  to  tell  the  nature  of  the  "treatment"  that  was  to 
be  expected;  and,  finally,  written  under  the  feet  of  the 
cavalier,  the  following  sentence : — "  The  Gentle  Shep- 
herd of  Salisbury  Plain."  The  poetry,  wdiich  was  written 
in  English,  French,  Latin,  and  Dutch,  is  well  worthy 
of  preservation.  It  was  "got  up"  at  the  shepherd's 
especial  request  by  an  English  army-officer  who  was 
fond  of  fun.     Here  is  how  it  reads : — 

•'  'Life's  but  a  journey;  let  us  live  on  the  road,'  says  the  Gentle 

Shepherd. 

"  Multum  in  parvo,  pro  bono  publico ; 
Entertainment  for  man  and  beast  all  of  a  row. 
Lekker  Kost  as  much  as  you  please ; 
Excellent  beds,  without  any  fleas. 

"  Nos  patriam  fugimus  ;  now  we  are  here, 
Vivamus,  let  us  live,  by  selling  beer. 
On  donne  a  boire  et  a  manger  ici : 
Come  in  and  try  it,  whoever  you  be." 

Upon  drawing  up  in  front  of  the  establishment  from 
which  this  rare  signboard  was  hung,  w^e  were  received 
by  the  Gentle  Shepherd  of  Salisbury  Plain  in  person,  and 


CONGRATULATING  THE  SHEPHERD.  43 

had  it  not  been  for  a  forewarning  of  Peter's  in  regard  to 
the  quality  of  his  "lekker,"  we  would  most  certainly 
have  been  inveigled,  by  his  polite  invitation  and  bland 
smiles,  into  entering  his  bar-room  and  paying  him  a  shil- 
ling sterling  each.  As  it  was,  however,  we  contented 
ourselves  with  congratulating  him  upon  the  non-existence 
of  fleas  in  his  beds,  (as  per  signboard,)  wished  him  a 
polite  good-morning,  and  drove  out  of  hearing  before  he 
could  command  words  to  express  himself  pleased  or  an- 
noyed by  our  remarks.  We  inferred  the  latter  to  be  the 
case,  however,  from  the  fact  of  his  looking  very  red  in 
the  face  and  shaking  his  fist  at  our  retreating  conveyance, 
as  well  as  from  a  comment  indulged  in  by  Peter  upon  his 
appearance: — "Veil  now,  old  man's  mad,  I  tell  you." 

"Never  mind  the  old  shepherd,  Peter;  you  take 
another  drink  of  this  good  brandy,  and  then  crack  your 
whip  :  we're  getting  late,"  said  the  doctor. 

So  Peter  smilingly  complied,  and  then  once  more 
"got  off"  the  "undetermined  sound." 

It  is  twenty-one  miles  from  Simon's  Town  to  Cape  Town, 
and  the  first  seven  miles  that  we  had  driven  over  was 
the  best  of  roads  at  one  time  and  the  worst  of  roads  at 
another.  It  was  what  is  understood  by  a  "beach-road," 
so  that  the  hauling  was  over  hard  sand  at  low-water  and 
through  hub-deep  sand  at  high-water :  the  latter  happened 
unfortunately  to  fall  to  our  lot.  The  last  fourteen  miles, 
however,  we  travelled  over  the  most  beautiful  road  I  ever 
sav),  and  I  do  not  think  that  I  ever  rode  over  a  beautiful 
road  before  mth  such  true  pleasure.  This  was  owing  to 
the  fact  of  our  "  chariot"  (Peter  even  called  it  "the  cha- 
riot" sometimes)  being  minus  springs;  for  I  could  not 


44  A   VARIETY   OF    COLOURS. 

avoid  imagining  the  horrible  succession  of  jolts  to  which 
we  should  have  been  forced  to  submit  had  we  been  run- 
ning over  any  but  a  perfectly-macadamized  road. 

In  addition  to  the  perfect  smoothness  of  this  road,  we 
found,  after  passing  the  Half-way  House,  an  avenue  of 
fine  old  oaks  spreading  their  branches  between  us  and 
the  sun,  which,  meeting  overhead  and  twisting  among 
each  other  in  every  imaginable  form,  formed  a  cool,  shady 
drive,  that  was  crossed  every  now  and  then  by  a  noisy 
little  stream  of  limpid  mountain-water,  that  washed  our 
tires  and  added  to  the  general  coolness  of  the  road. 
This  avenue  reached  almost  to  Cape  Town :  it  must  have 
been  eight  miles  long.  And  just  imagine  an  avenue  of 
heavy,  solid  old  oaks  of  that  length :  it  was  a  perfect 
treat  to  drive  through  it.  And  then  the  numbers  of  the 
fair  sex  (?)  that  we  were  continually  passing, — some  of 
them  quite  pretty,  and,  again,  some  of  them  horribly  ugly. 
They  were  of  all  colours,  too.  They  were  white,  copper- 
coloured,  black,  and  undetermined,  and  seemed  to  resort 
to  this  avenue  as  their  favourite  morning  walk. 

I  soon  began  to  be  attracted  by  Peter's  manner  as  we 
fell  in  with  these  fair  pedestrians :  I  noticed  that  if  they 
were  young  and  pretty,  our  newly-fledged  Mormon  in- 
variably knew  them,  whereas,  if  they  were  the  contrary,  such 
was  never  the  case.  To  some  of  the  former  he  would 
give  a  nod;  to  others,  a  "good-morning,  miss!"  while 
with  others  again  I  even  saw  him  go  so  far  as  to  indulge 
in  a  wink ;  but,  when  either  age  or  ugliness  drew  towards 
us,  he  always  found  that  his  horses  were  not  going  fast 
enough,  that  it  was  necessary  to  gather  up  his  reins,  shake 
his  dilapidated  whip,  and  produce  the  startling  noise,  the 


WHALES    AND    WHALING.  45 

"undetermined  sound."  And  if  they  came  towards  him 
too  closely,  as  if  determined  to  catch  his  eye,  he  would  even 
turn  his  head  to  answer  an  imaginary  question,  thus  pre- 
senting his  hack  to  their  anxious  gaze.  Noticing  all  of 
this,  I  could  not  help  hinting  that  I  feared  Mrs.  Peter 
had  good  cause  to  avoid  doting  on  him ;  but  he  replied, 
with  great  earnestness  of  manner,  that  the  greater  part 
of  them  were  Mormons,  and  consequently  his  spiritual 
Bisters.  So  I  thought,  "  What  a  fine  thing  it  must  be  to 
be  a  Mormon  !"  and  thereafter  held  my  peace. 

Previous  to  our  arrival  at  the  Gentle  Shepherd's,  we 
had  passed  a  small  sea-side  village,  called  Cork  Bay,  which 
Peter  told  us  w^as  inhabited  entirely  by  whale-fishermen 
and  their  families.  "We  subsequently  saw  another  of 
those  whaling-establishments  at  Cape  Town.  These  two, 
with  that  which  we  had  previously  visited  at  the  pilot's, 
comprised  all  that  we  could  hear  of  in  the  locality. 

Those  engaged  in  the  business  do  not  own  vessels 
which  they  send  in  search  of  the  whale,  but  accomplish 
most  of  their  work  in  open  boats.  They  lounge  about 
the  beach  until  some  unfortunate  whale  is  discovered 
in  the  bay,  when  they  man  their  boats,  attack  him  with 
harpoon  and  lance,  and,  if  victorious,  tow  him  to  the 
beach,  where  he  is  hauled  up  by  oxen,  stripped  of  his 
blubber,  and  otherwise  roughly  handled.  We  were  told 
that  they  were  getting  very  scarce  of  late  years,  however, 
and  that  the  business  no  longer  held  out  the  promise  of 
even  a  reasonable  gain.  We  now  ceased  to  wonder  where 
80  many  whale-ribs  had  come  from,  the  road  having  been 
lined  with  fences  made  of  them,  during  the  first  part  of 
our  drive. 


46  FAST   CATTLE. 

Talking  of  hauling  the  whale  up  with  oxen  reminds 
me  that  I  there  saw  as  many  as  sixteen  of  the  latter  yoked 
to  a  single  cart;  and  we  were  subsequently  informed  by 
the  consul  that  they  could  travel  without  difficulty  as  far 
as  forty  or  fifty  miles  a  day  before  a  heavy  load.  They 
are  yoked  like  those  of  South  America,  the  yoke  being 
lashed  on  in  front  of  the  horns. 

Shortly  after  leaving  the  whale-rib  fences  behind  us, 
we  began  to  find  a  more  elevated  country ;  and  soon  after 
this  we  pulled  up  in  front  of  the  "Half-way  Plouse," 
where  we  exchanged  our  "  piles  of  bones"  for  four  others, 
that  looked  even  more  unpromising  than  the  first,  but 
which  astonished  us  by  getting  over  the  beautiful  road 
with  a  very  fair  speed.  We  now  began  to  see  rich,  taste- 
ful, and  romantic-looking  country-seats  peering  through 
the  planted  woods  on  either  side  of  our  avenue,  also  two 
or  three  small  villages,  and  as  many  brick-kilns.  These 
latter  produce  a  very  inferior  brick,  however,  if  I  may 
judge  from  those  which  came  under  my  inspection.  The 
country-seats  belong  to  the  more  wealthy  residents  of 
Cape  Town,  are  of  the  English  style,  and  are  generally 
surrounded  by  extensive  groves  of  pine-trees,  planted  in 
rows  like  Indian  corn.  As  we  drove  along  between  those 
beautifully  laid-out  grounds,  we  were  more  than  ever 
struck  with  the  absence  of  natural  foliage. 

At  last  we  began  to  enter  Cape  Town,  after  a  drive  of 
three  hours  and  twelve  minutes,  and,  having  taken  rooms 
at  the  "Masonic,"  commenced  preparing  for  an  official 
visit  to  Mr.  Holmes,  the  consul.  He  received  us  with 
great  politeness,  and,  as  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  the 
visit  terminated  with    an  invitation  to  dinner,  at   "six 


SIX    SHAKP.  47 

sharp;"  and  we  were  just  being  bowed  out  of  tbe  con- 
sulate, when  a  most  gentlemanlj-looking  Englishman  of 
some  fifty  years  entered,  and  was  introduced  to  us  as  Mr. 
Eager.  The  name  of  this  gentleman  seemed  most  ap- 
propriate ;  for  he  took  advantage  of  the  first  pause  in 
the  renewed  conversation  to  ask  us  to  dine  with  him 
at  "six  sharp,"  which  caused  us  to  smile  as  we  told  him 
of  "six  sharp"  !N^o.  1,  and  begged  him  to  accept  it  as 
our  excuse.  He  seemed  quite  disappointed  at  this,  and 
begged  us  to  let  him  have  the  pleasure  of  our  company 
at  the  same  hour  on  the  following  day;  but  there,  also, 
three  of  us  were  forced  to  disappoint  him,  as  our  leave  ex- 
pired at  that  time.  The  doctor,  however,  accepted  "  with 
pleasure,"  and,  after  pointing  out  the  most  pleasant  direc- 
tion for  strolling,  our  polite  acquaintance  took  his  leave. 
"We  never  subsequently  met  his  equal :  we  hope  to  meet 
him  again. 

Having  nothing  to  do  but  hunt  for  what  was  to  be  seen, 
we  followed  the  direction  he  had  pointed  out,  and  soon 
aiTived  at  a  stone  gateway  that  opened  into  a  most  shady 
and  picturesque  walk.  It  proved  to  be  some  five  hundred 
yards  in  length  by  about  fifty  feet  in  width,  and  was 
limited  on  either  side  by  closely-planted  oaks  of  gigantic 
proportions,  the  same  apparently  that  had  sheltered  us 
on  our  way  down.  Had  not  the  days  of  Aladdin's  lamp 
and  ring  been  among  those  of  the  past,  one  might  readily 
have  imagined  this  second  avenue  of  noble  trees  to  have 
been  a  section  of  that  beautiful  road  that  had  been  trans- 
planted for  our  express  benefit. 

At  the  far-end  of  this  walk  we  found  another  gateway, 
which,  like  the  first,  was  guarded  day  and  night  by  ram- 


48  REMARKABLE   RAMRODS. 

rod-like  sentries,  whose  particular  business  it  is  to  salute 
officers  and  to  keep  out  brindled  cows,  fierce  dogs,  and, 
what  is  nearly  as  bad,  presuming  rowdies,  so  that  ladies 
and  children  may  enjoy  a  quiet  walk  without  the  fear  of 
encountering  the  attentions  of  either  of  the  foregoing 
parties. 

On  the  left  of  this  delightful  promenade  is  located  the 
Government  house  and  grounds,  while  the  space  on 
the  right  is  occupied  by  a  botanical  garden.  Both  of 
these  are  enclosed  by  tasteful  fencing ;  and  when  you  get 
half-way  up  the  avenue  you  come  to  two  gates, — the  one 
directly  facing  the  other, — before  which  two  more  dressed- 
up  ramrods  walk  up  and  down  and  bore  all  who  pass  in 
uniform,  by  "presenting  arms"  with  a  clang  that  often 
startles  weak-minded  officials  into  a  state  of  nervous 
politeness  and  takes  away  greatly  from  the  pleasure  of 
any  one's  walk.  This  soon  became  such  a  bore  that  we 
were  glad  to  get  out  of  our  feathers  and  emerge  once  more 
from  the  "  Masonic"  in  the  reasonable  costume  of  free  and 
enlightened  citizens.  Previous  to  this,  however,  we  used 
said  feathers  to  open  the  gates  of  the  garden,  through  the 
well-kept  walks  of  which  we  lounged,  to  the  intense  admi- 
ration of  a  dozen  or  more  nurses  and  probably  double 
the  number  of  children,  until  the  arrival  of  the  hour  for 
lunch. 

During  this  lounge  we  did  not  notice  any  foreign  plants 
or  flowers ;  but  those  indigenous  to  the  country  were 
both  so  numerous  and  beautiful  that  their  presence  was 
not  at  all  necessary.  We  were  told  by  the  keeper  that 
that  garden  was  not  supported  by  either  the  home,  colo- 
nial, or  city  treasury,  but  by  the  voluntary  subscription 


DISGUSTED    SHEEPISHNESS.  49 

of  various  families,  who  tlius  secure  to  themselves  and 
friends  a  quiet,  retired  spot  iu  which  to  stroll  at  pleasure. 
Then  each  of  these  subscribers  has  furnished  him  any 
number  of  tickets,  which  are  presented  to  "distinguished 
strangers"  to  gain  them  admission;  but,  in  spite  of  this, 
there  are  shingle-notices  stuck  up  and  through  the  garden 
to  the  effect  that  "strangers  are  admitted  without  tickets," 
so  one  would  say  they  are  of  no  use.  "When  the  music 
is  under  way,  however,  the  shingle-notices  cease  to  be  of 
effect,  and  the  ticket  is  required.  Some  of  our  officers 
found  themselves  in  a  most  mortifying  situation  on  this 
account:  they  were  in  uniform,  the  garrison-band  was  in 
full  blast,  and  the  garden  was  crowded  with  "the  fami- 
lies." Of  course  they  made  for  the  gate  with  as  dignified 
a  step  as  possible,  to  join  in  the  scene,  when  invidious 
Fate,  in  the  shape  of  the  gate-keeper,  stopped  them,  and 
asked  for  their  tickets. 

Of  course  they  could  only  look  angry  or  sheepish,  and 
they  chose  the  former ;  but  old  Fate  was  not  to  be 
alarmed.  They  were  therefore  about  to  act  like  sensible 
men  and  retire,  when  several  of  the  officers  of  the  gar- 
rison, seeing  their  dilemma,  left  the  ladies  who  were 
hano-ino;  on  their  arms,  and  advanced  to  their  assistance ; 
but  their  effi)rts  were  of  no  avail,  and  they  were  forced  to 
return  to  the  fair  ones,  while  our  fellows  walked  off  in  a 
state  of  disgusted  sheepishness.  The  English  officers 
seemed  as  much  mortified,  however,  as  they  were,  and  a 
few  days  later  a  long  apology  reached  the  squadron  from 
his  excellency  the  governor,  iu  which  he  attributed  all 
the  blame  to  the  stupidity  of  the  gate-keeper. 

"Well,  as  soon  as  we  had  got  out  of  our  uniform,  we 


50  A   CAPE    TOWN   BOOKSELLER. 

again  sallied  out,  this  time  in  search  of  a  bookstore,  where 
we  hoped  to  find  a  standard  work  that  we  were  in  search 
of.  We  were  surprised  to  find  but  one  establishment 
of  the  kind,  and  at  being  there  informed  that  they 
only  imported  similar  works  "  to  order."  I  could  not  help 
comparing  this  yawning  reply,  the  store,  and  the  "im- 
porter" himself,  with  the  Yankee  bookseller  of  the  pre- 
sent day.  I  could  not  help  thinking  how  in  a  port  like 
that,  where  no  duties  were  levied,  the  latter  would  soon 
open  their  eyes  to  the  "Young  America"  way  of  carry- 
ing on  that  business. 

We  now  returned  to  the  hotel,  where  we  found  several 
Dutch  officers,  whose  vessel  had  reached  Simon's  Bay 
since  our  arrival,  engaged  in  discussing  a  late  lunch  in 
the  only  sitting-room.  Of  course  we  had  to  intrude  our 
company  upon  them  or  retire  to  our  rooms ;  so  we  chose 
the  former.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  naval  men,  of  what- 
ever nation,  become  acquainted  as  the  most  natural  thing 
in  the  world :  in  the  present  case,  five  minutes  had  not 
elapsed  before  several  bottles  of  ale  were  consumed  and 
double  the  number  of  cheroots  ignited.  Then  we  com- 
menced to  talk  of  our  past  and  future  movements  quite 
smoothly;  and  when  they  left  in  the  "mail-coach"  a 
half-hour  later,  one  would  have  imagined  that  we  were 
old  acquaintances.  We  learned  one  thing  from  those 
gentlemen  which  struck  us  as  being  but  just  and  reason- 
able : — their  men-of-war  are  kept  seven  or  eight  years  in 
commission  when  once  sent  to  a  distant  colony  like  Ba- 
tavia,  (they  were  then  on  their  homeward-bound  voyage 
from  that  station,)  and  after  that,  such  officers  as  desire  it 
may  retire  from  service  on  reduced  pay ; — a  proceeding 


STARTLING   INFORMATION.  51 

which,  if  applied  to  our  own  navy,  would  render  it  both 
effective  and  comfortable. 

Table  Mountain  has  been  drawn  so  often  both  by  pen 
and  pencil,  and  Gape  Town,  which  slumbers  at  its  base, 
is  so  well  known,  that  I  shall  pass  lightly  over  both  and 
hasten  on  to  other  regions. 

We  met  Mr.  Holmes  at  the  appointed  hour,  enjoyed  a 
very  fair  dinner,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  conversing 
during  said  enjoyment  with  Captain  Jamison,  R.^N".,  an 
accomplished  Englishman,  and  a  man  of  great  general 
and  local  information.  Having  resided  over  twenty  years 
in  the  colony,  and  being  known  as  a  gentleman  of  unex- 
ceptionable character,  I  feel  that  I  may  safely  give  circu- 
lation to  parts  of  his  very  instructive  conversation. 

Among  other  things,  he  told  us  that  the  tribe  of  Kaffirs 
proper  did  not  number  over  forty  thousand  fighting-men, 
but  that  in  their  conflicts  with  the  English  they  could 
double  or  treble  that  number  by  calling  in  other  South 
Africans,  drawn  chiefly  from  the  Bushmen  and  another 
tribe  the  name  of  which  has  escaped  me.  The  Hotten- 
tots, he  said,  were  almost  extinct.  In  regard  to  wild  ani- 
mals and  reptiles,  he  said  that  the  cheetah,  the  leopard, 
and  the  antelope,  still  existed  in  the  vicinity  in  consider- 
able numbers,  but  that  a  lion  was  now  very  rarely  en- 
countered. Puflf-adders  were  abundant,  and  the  cobra  di 
capello  was  often  killed  on  the  mountain-sides  measuring 
from  ten  to  fourteen  feet. 

This  latter  was  a  piece  of  information  that  sounded 
much  more  agreeably  to  my  ear  at  that  time  than  it  would 
have  done  some  days  previous,  when  the  purser  and  my- 
self were  "smelling  a  rat"  at  the  head  of  a  deep  ravine, 


52  SLY,  SIR, — DEVILISH   SLY. 

with  at  least  half  a  mile  of  undergrowth  between  us  and 
the  open  road. 

Captain  Jamison  next  spoke  of  the  great  superiority 
of  the  Kaffir  over  the  Bushman,  and  placed  the  latter  in 
turn  over  the  Hottentot.  "The  Kaffir,"  he  said,  "has 
considerable  mind,  is  brave,  and  differs  from  the  negro 
in  many  essential  points:  in  colour  he  approaches  the 
Moor.  The  Bushman  is  'regular  negro,'  passably  brave, 
but  of  no  mental  capacity;  while  the  Hottentot  is  remark- 
able for  nothing  but  high  cheek-bones  and  a  most  mar- 
vellous development  that  would  put  to  shame  the  most 
exaggerated  of  old-fashioned  bustles." 

Somehow  or  other  the  conversation  here  turned  upon 
Peter,  our  Mormon  driver;  and  the  captain  laughingly 
gave  us  a  short  history  of  him.  Peter,  he  said,  was 
widely  known  as  a  clever  and  obliging  fellow,  but,  like 
Joseph  Bagstock,  he  was  "  sly,  sir, — devilish  sly."  Having 
been  unmercifully  "kicked"  by  a  young  lady  of  Dutch 
parentage,  he  had  rubied  to  the  feet  of  a  Hottentot  belle 
and  dragged  her  to  the  nuptial  broomstick  in  a  state  of 
mind  bordering  upon  desperation.  Alas  for  Peter !  He 
had  not  been  married  a  week  before  he  made  the  start- 
ling discovery  that  he  was  not  her  "first  love;"  and  this, 
combined  with  the  fact  of  his  brandy-bottle  always  giving 
out  when  he  still  thought  that  it  should  be  half  full,  pro- 
duced a  gradual  change  in  his  feelings  which  finally  re- 
sulted in  his  embracing  the  Mormon  faith.  Poor  Peter  T 
I'll  venture  to  say  that  you  still  sit  behind  those  piles  of 
bones,  still  urge  them  ahead  with  that  ejaculation  of 
surprise. 

It  was  a  late  hour  when  we  shook  hands  with  our  host. 


WHAT   A   VAG    MR.  PETER   IS  !  53 

and  the  next  clay  at  2  p.m.  we  were  again  in  the  "  chariot," 
on  our  return  to  Simon's  Town.  During  this  drive  we  were 
struck  with  the  great  number  of  brilliantly-plumaged 
birds  that  crossed  our  path,  as  well  as  by  the  fact  that 
none  of  them  seemed  to  be  of  the  singing  order.  I  asked 
Peter  the  reason  of  this,  and  he  replied  that  they  had 
given  up  singing  since  the  English  had  taken  the  country 
from  his  people, — an  answer  which  caused  a  young 
female  in  a  linsey-woolsey  garment  of  very  limited  length 
to  say,  "  Wliat  a  vag  Mr.  Peter  is  !"  "  What's  it  to  you  ?" 
asked  the  latter,  turning  sharply  around  and  scowling 
upon  her  with  crushing  disdain.  The  lady  was  not 
pretty.  We  are  again  on  board  ship.  So  much  for  Cape 
Town  and — Peter. 


CHAPTER  lY. 

WE  LEAVE   Simon's  town  and  sail  fok  batavia,  where  we  keoeive  a 

VISIT  THAT  DOES  RELATE  TO  OUR  HEALTH,  AND  SEE  A  REMARKABLE  GUN  ; 
AFTER  WHICH  WE  LISTEN  TO  SEVERAL  ASTONISHING  ACCOUNTS  FROM  AN 
ENGLISH   RESIDENT,   AND   AGAIN   PUT   TO    SEA. 

It  is  the  9th  of  November,  and  we  are  again  getting  up 
our  anchor.  The  Hancock  and  Cooper  sailed  some  days 
since  for  Batavia,  and  we  are  now  to  follow  them  in  the 
Kennedy,  while  the  Yincennes  and  Porpoise  proceed  to 
Hong-Kong  via  Australia.  From  Batavia  we  are  to  pro- 
ceed in  company  with  the  first  two  vessels  to  the  neigh- 
bouring Straits  of  Caspar,  survey  them,  and  then  join  the 
Yincennes  and  Porpoise  at  Hong-Kong.  And  now,  be- 
fore we  leave  Simon's  Town,  let  me  say  a  word  in  regard 
to  the  "  Cape  Malay." 

Surprised  to  find  this  race  in  such  numbers  so  far  away 
from  their  island-homes,  I  questioned  Captain  Jamison  on 
the  subject,  and  learned  that  when  the  Cape  was  in  pos- 
session of  the  Butch  they  had  been  imported  from  the 
islands  of  Sumatra,  Borneo,  &c.  as  slaves,  and  that,  being 
remarkably  prolific,  they  had  increased  tenfold.  That 
when  the  English  succeeded  the  Dutch,  and  they  were 
emancipated  and  thrown  on  their  own  resources,  they 
had  turned  their  attention  to  making  honest  livelihoods, 
and  were  now  very  creditable  members  of  society.  I  could 
not  but  compare  their  conduct  and  success  as  freemen 

54 


A   PAINTED    SEA.  55 

with  the  conduct  and  failure  of  the  African  slave  of  my 
own  land  when  similarly  released. 

There  was  another  subject — one  of  nature's  numerous 
phenomena — that  excited  both  our  surprise  and  admira- 
tion while  anchored  off  Simon's  Town. 

The  whole  surface  of  the  harbour  would  at  times  be 
covered  by  a  greasy,  frothy,  variously-coloured  substance, 
that  gave  the  water  a  most  uncleanly  appearance  during 
the  day,  but  which  at  night  caused  it  to  resemble  a  lake 
of  molten  gold.  How  deep  it  extended  we  could  not  tell, 
possibly  the  whole  depth  of  the  harbour. 

We  had  observed  the  same  phenomenon  while  ap- 
proaching the  coast,  and  had  at  first  been  at  a  loss  what 
to  attribute  it  to.  The  whole  sea  was  sprinkled  with 
the  variously-hued  patches,  and  as  we  sailed  through 
them  we  left  a  wake  of  fire  that  was  apparent  even  under 
the  glare  of  the  mid-day  sun.  It  was  like  sailing  over  a 
painted  sea  in  the  daytime ;  and  at  night,  when  the  seas 
lifted  up  their  lambent  crests  in  all  directions,  the  effect 
was  truly  grand.  We  subsequently  attributed  their 
existence  to  the  presence  of  vast  masses  of  a  migrating 
infusoria,  the  minute  and  phosphorescent  forms  of  the 
largest  of  which  we  could  readily  detect  in  a  drop  of  the 
water  by  placing  it  under  an  ordinary  magnifier. 

And  now  when  we  again  "  launched  out  upon  the  sea" — 
we,  and  the  Viucennes,  and  the  poor  doomed  Porpoise — we 
looked  around  in  vain  for  those  living  fields — those  green 
and  golden  and  purple  plains — which  had  extended  for 
miles  around  us  and  been  composed  of  an  infinite  number 
of  living  animals, — animals  which  exist  only  in  the  micro- 
scopic world,  and  which  are  of  such  infinitesimal  dimen- 


56  MAN    OVERBOARD. 

sions  that  we  are  told  five  millions  may  pass  througli  the 
eye  of  a  cambric-needle  at  the  same  time  without  elbow- 
ing each  other.  So  much  for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ; 
— with  its  ugly  women,  songless  birds,  and  odorless 
flowers. 

I  have  already  remarked  that  it  was  Kovember  9,  and 
that  we  were  again  at  sea.  The  first  day  out,  while  we 
were  all  three  running  along  before  a  glorious  breeze,  the 
Vincennes  suddenly  lost  a  man  overboard,  and  a  most 
lively  scene  ensued  while  picking  him  up.  Helms  were 
shoved  hurriedly  down,  studding-sails  slapped  and  flapped 
in  the  most  approved  style,  boats  were  lowered,  ships 
came  up  into  the  wind,  and,  finally,  the  unfortunate 
clumsy  was  rescued  from  "a  watery  grave."  Night 
closed  around  us,  and  we  parted  company:  the  Vin- 
cennes and  Porpoise  to  skirt  the  coral  reefs  of  southern 
latitudes,  and  we  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  Batavia. 

One  of  those  singular  accidents  which  sailors  in  parti- 
cular are  disposed  to  regard  in  a  miraculous  light  now 
occurred  on  board,  and  gave  us  something  to  talk  about. 
We  were  eating  our  first  sea-breakfast :  all  of  the  mess, 
save  the  officer  of  the  deck,  were  at  the  table,  and  the  ship 
was  beating  slowly  to  the  eastward  against  a  light  breeze. 
Suddenly  our  assistant  hydrographer,  Mr.  Samuel  Potts, 
of  Washington,  remarked  that  he  had  "  dreamed  a  dream" 
about  his  box  of  clothes,  which,  having  failed  to  reach 
him  before  sailing  from  home,  his  friends  had  promised 
to  ship  to  China.  "I  dreamt,"  he  said,  "that  we  were 
lying  becalmed  near  a  merchant-ship,  that  we  lowered  a 
boat  and  boarded  her,  and  that  the  boat  returned  with 
my  box."    Nothing  more  was  said  or  thought  on  the  sub- 


A   DREAM   VERIFIED.  57 

ject  for  several  hours,  when,  strange  to  say,  we  found 
ourselves  becalmed  within  a  mile  or  two  of  a  deeply- 
laden  bark  which  showed  American  colours. 

"  That  fellow  looks  as  if  he  might  be  from  New  York, 
with  a  load  of  coal  and  a  few  stray  newspapers,"  remarked 
Eussell,  the  third  lieutenant.  "I'm  going  to  ask  for  a 
boat  to  board  him." 

So  he  asked,  got  a  boat,  boarded  the  strange  sail,  and 
returned  with  Mr.  Potts's  box.  She  proved  to  be  the  bark 
Koebuck,  of  Baltimore,  eighty-four  days  out,  loaded  with 
coal  for  Perry's  squadron. 

Our  passage  to  Batavia  presents  little  of  interest  to  the 
general  reader.  I  take  a  few  extracts  from  my  journal, 
simply  to  avoid  slighting  that  portion  of  the  cruise. 

"E"ov.  15.— Lat  35°  37'  S.,  long.  28°  25'  E.  A  fresh 
breeze  from  south  to  southeast.  "Weather  overcast  and 
cloudy,  the  water  of  a  greenish  tinge.  The  following 
birds  have  hovered  around  the  ship  during  the  day: — 
albatross,  Cape-pigeons,  gulls,  blue  jays,  (a  sea-bird  re- 
sembling its  shore-namesake,)  sheer-waters,  sea-crows, 
petrels,  and  whale-birds ;  not  so  many  by  far  as  yester- 
day. "Where  have  they  gone  to  ?  They  generally  hang 
by  a  ship  to  pick  up  the  scraps  that  are  thrown  over  by 
the  cooks,  and  I  have  been  often  struck  by  the  uncer- 
tainty of  their  presence.  I  have  at  length  attributed  it  to 
the  proximity  of  other  ships;  for  I  have  noticed  that 
whenever  a  vessel  comes  in  sight  they  invariably  become 
scarce.  They  soar  to  such  heights  that  many  miles  of 
space  that  are  below  our  horizon  become  open  to  them, 
besides  which  they  have  a  clearer  sight  than  man,  and 
instinct  in  addition.    The  consequence  is  that  they  always 


58  HARD    UP   THE   HELM. 

see  a  ship  first;  and  I  feel  confident  that  tlie  approach  of 
many  vessels  might  be  predicted  by  following  the  old 
Roman  idea  of  consulting  the  flight  of  birds." 

"Nov.  16. — Saw  a  school  of  white  porpoises  during  the 
afternoon  watch,  who  played  about  us  with  great  ease, 
darting  ahead  or  astern  as  it  pleased  them,  though  we 
were  running  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots.  One  of  the  men — 
Corcoran,  an  old  ^vhaler — got  a  harpoon  over  the  bow, 
and  put  it  entirely  through  one  of  them ;  but  our  speed 
was  so  great  that  it  tore  out  "with  the  first  jerk,  and  the 
wounded  animal  started  frantically  off  at  right  angles  and 
was  followed  by  the  entire  school.  He  marked  his  path 
by  a  bloody  streak." 

"  Nov.  18. — The  weather  has  been  dark  and  threaten- 
ing for  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  and  the  barometer 
sinking  with  a  determined  uniformity  unpleasant  to 
behold.  We  knew  that  '  something  was  in  the  wind,' 
but  thought  we  should  be  able  to  drag  along  quite  com- 
fortably under  double  reefs  or  something  of  that  sort. 
"We  contented  ourselves,  therefore,  with  hauling  up  the 
mainsail,  stowing  the  jib,  and  setting  the  topmast-stay- 
sail; but  it  soon  came  a  little  harder  than  we  had  bar- 
gained for,  and  it  was  'up  helm  and  run  before  it'  with 
unpleasant  suddenness.  "We  now  shortened  sail  to  a 
close-reefed  maintopsail  and  foresail,  and  'let  her  slide.' 
This  latter  sail  was  new,  and  therefore  gave  us  no  con- 
cern, but  the  topsail  was  half  worn  and  not  to  be  trusted. 
Suddenly  the  cyclone  (it  was  blowing  fearfully  by  this 
time)  boxed  around  forward  of  the  beam,  and  the  old 
maintopsail  blew  into  a  hundred  pieces.  The  lee  sheet- 
block  was  snapped  ofi'  with  the  report  of  a  young  cannon, 


THE    cyclone's    CENTRE.  59 

and  went  singing  to  leeward  with  furious  velocity. 
'Hard  np  the  helm,  to  keep  her  before  the  gale:'  and, 
as  the  wheel  turned  heavily  around,  I  saw  a  beautiful  sight. 
It  had  been  blowing  a  moderate  gale  for  the  last  twelve 
hours;  a  heavy  swell  had  been  rolling  directly  against  it, 
and  the  gale  of  course  had  got  up  its  own  sea,  which 
ran  against  and  on  top  of  the  swell.  ISTow  this  sudden 
shifting  of  the  wind  brought  its  new  direction  almost  at 
right  angles  with  both  sea  and  swell,  besides  getting  up 
a  c?'05s-sea ;  and,  as  one  of  the  former  came  tumbling  on 
our  quarter,  (the  ship  herself  hopping  about  like  an 
India-rubber  ball,)  a  violent  squall  got  under  its  curved 
crest,  and,  lifting  it  bodily  up,  seemed  all  at  once  to  change 
from  a  squall  to  a  furious  whirlwind.  The  result  can  be 
better  imagined  than  described.  This  vast  volume  of 
water,  held  in  suspension,  as  it  were,  by  a  powerful  cur- 
rent of  air  that  seemed  to  revolve  upon  its  own  axis, 
and  lifting  itself  between  us  and  the  dazzling  rays  of  a 
meridian  sun,  reflected  the  various  hues  of  the  rainbow 
for  a  moment,  and  then,  torn  and  scattered  into  giant 
drops  and  driving  mist,  made  the  sea  foam  under  its 
descent  and  saturated  us  with  its  whirling  spray.  It 
was  a  beautiful  sight,  and,  though  in  or  near  the  centre 
of  one  of  the  dreaded  cyclones,  we  took  time  to  ad- 
mire it." 

"Nov.  21. — I  borrowed  'old  bust-proof  from  the  purser 
this  morning  and  went  on  deck  to  shoot  an  old  Cape- 
albatross,  gray  with  ago,  and  measuring  at  least  twelve 
feet  from  pinion  to  pinion.  He  swept  within  thirty  or 
forty  yards  of  me  several  times,  but  could  never  be  per- 
suaded to  'turn  his  back'  so  that  the  shot  might  pene- 


60  A   LARGE   WHALE. 

trate  up  along  his  feathers.  He  was  evidently  a  very 
polite  old  gentleman,  or  he  had  a  great  weakness  for  his 
tail, — it  was  hard  to  say  which.  I  was  forced,  therefore, 
to  fire  as  he  presented  his  side  in  turning,  and  this  I  did 
several  times  with  no  effect ;  he  did  not  even  shake  his 
vakied  tail.  The  'No.  4  shot  evidently  glanced  from  the 
smooth  and  polished  coating.  At  last  he  forgot  his 
breeding,  turned  his  tail  upon  me,  and  was  notified  of 
his  breach  of  etiquette  through  the  agency  of  both 
barrels.  This  seemed  to  cause  him  considerable  an- 
noyance for  a  short  time,  but  at  the  end  of  a  minute 
he  ceased  to  shake  his  caudal  appendage  and  became 
as  majestic  in  his  movements  as  ever,  I  now  went 
below  and  got  some  bbb  shot,  determined  to  'try  the 
virtue  of  stones ;'  and,  like  the  boy  in  the  apple-tree,  he 
came  down  at  the  first  summons.  I  looked  at  his  heavy 
body  and  snowy  plumage  as  he  floated  by,  and  felt  a 
pang  of  remorse  for  having  so  wantonly  destroyed  so 
noble  a  bird." 

"I^^ov.  27. — Here  comes  a  'fish-story.'  One  of  our 
old  quartermasters,  Peterson  by  name,  told  me  a  few 
moments  since,  with  the  most  serious  face  in  the  world, 
that  a  whale  had  come  as  close  as  ten  paces  to  the  ship 
during  his  watch,  and  that  he  was  as  long  as  the  ship — 
within  a  few  feet.  I  asked  him  how  much  he  meant  by 
'a  few  feet,'  and  was  amused  at  his  answering,  'Ten  or 
twelve,  sir!'  He  thus  made  his  whale  over  a  hundred 
feet  long,  and  evidently  believed  what  he  was  saying. 

" '  His  wake  was  like  that  of  a  ship,'  he  said ;  '  and  when 
he  lifted  to  blow,  his  head  was  at  least  ten  feet  above 
the  sea.'     I  give  his  yarn  a  place  here  because  the  old 


MAMMOTH    SEAS.  61 

fellow  would  not  imagine  any  thing  unless  for  a  'con- 
sideration;' and,  if  there  is  such  a  thing  as  a  whale  over 
a  hundred  feet  long,  I  believe  he  has  seen  him,  in  which 
case  it  is  worth  mentioning." 

"  Dec.  4. — I  observed  indications  of  a  strong  current 
on  the  tops  of  the  heavy  westerly  swells  as  they  rolled 
by  us.  One  of  them  which  I  measured  roughly  from 
the  mizzen-rigging — my  eye  being  elevated  twenty  feet 
above  the  sea-level  —  proved  to  be  ten  feet  high,  or 
twenty  feet  from  its  top  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  and 
to  be  about  one  hundred  yards  from  the  one  that  fol- 
lowed it.  Its  velocity  was  about  thirty  feet  a  second. 
These  swells,  so  diiferent  from  the  short  ones  of  the 
Atlantic  and  other  confined  bodies  of  water,  came  under 
our  stern  with  a  power  acquired  from  the  immense 
stretch  of  space  over  which  they  roll,  and  lift  the  ship 
upon  their  rising  breast,  urging  her  ahead  with  an  in- 
creased velocity,  and  leaving  us  bow  up  and  stern  down, 
to  be  similarly  treated  by  the  next  in  turn.  Ugly  com- 
panions they  would  be  among  the  broken  rocks  of  a  lee 
shore."     And  now  for  the  Malay  Islands. 

It  was  on  the  24th  of  December,  1853,  that  we  sighted 
that  of  Java,  and  the  next  morning  we  were  at  anchor 
oft'  the  town  of  Anger,  situated  on  its  western  extreme. 
"We  stopped  there  to  get  a  pilot,  if  possible,  to  take  us  on 
to  Batavia ;  and,  though  there  was  none  to  be  found  at 
that  time,  we  bought  a  late  coast-chart  from  the  authori- 
ties, by  which  we  worked  up  to  Batavia  the  next  day. 
We  found  the  Hancock  and  Cooper  already  there,  and 
the  following  day  the  former  left  for  our  surveying- 
ground, — distant  now  only  a  few  hours'  sail, — ordering  us 


62  ANGER. 

to  follow  as  soon  as  possible.  We  had  been  at  sea  forty- 
six  days,  and  were  amplj^  prepared  to  enjoy  the  few  short 
hours  thus  considerately  granted  us. 

Let  me  make  an  extract  from  my  journal  in  regard  to 
Anger. 

We  had  anchored  near  it  during  the  night — "At  day- 
light a  beautiful  sight  spread  itself  out  before  us :  a  low, 
undulating  country,  backed  by  the  blue  mountains  of  the 
interior,  and  fronted  by  dense  groves  of  the  cocoanut, 
of  the  mangosteen,  and  of  the  banana,  had  taken  the 
place  of  our  interminable  sea-horizon,  and  refreshed  the 
vision  while  it  also  promised  an  abundant  supply  of  the 
most  delicious  fruits. 

"While  I  yet  admired  this  grateful  change  through  a 
glass,  a  dozen  or  more  Malay  boats  pulled  alongside  of 
us,  whose  occupants  soon  gave  us  to  understand  that 
they  were  a  most  nois}'  set  of  people.  Their  boats  were 
laden  to  their  gunwales  with  fruit,  vegetables,  and  ani- 
mals of  a  dozen  different  species, — live  stock  in  abun- 
dance for  the  table,  and  various  unknown  animals  to 
tempt  the  curiosity  of  the  naturalist. 

"We  found  every  thing  very  cheap: — chickens  one 
dollar  the  dozen;  eggs  ditto  the  hundred;  and  the  fruit 
absolutely  being  thrown  away.  Everybody  smiled  com- 
placently, looked  ahead  two  hours,  and  made  an  ima- 
ginary breakfast  upon  broiled  chickens,  soft-boiled  eggs, 
and mangosteens." 

Reader,  have  you  ever  eaten  a  mangosteen  ?  It  is  by 
far  the  most  delicious  fruit  in  the  world;  it  puts  the 
cheremoya  of  Peru  to  the  blush,  and  doesn't  show 
strawberries-and-cream  the  shade  of  a  chance :  it  is  worth 


THE    FRUIT   OF   FRUITS.  63 

living  even  in  tlie  East  to  eat  the  mangosteen.  "While 
I  ■u^as  opening  one  of  them  and  putting  the  four  sections 
into  my  mouth  one  after  the  other  in  rapid  succession,  I 
was  saluted  by  a  young  Japanese  of  Mongolian  cast  of 
features,  rather  below  the  middle  size,  and  showing  a 
horribly-black  set  of  teeth — black  as  ink  —  when  he 
wished  to  appear  amiable.  He  told  me  that  he  was  the 
second  captain  of  the  port,  and  that  he  had  called  to  pay 
his  respects  and  see  if  we  icanied  anij  thing.  I  subse- 
quently found  that  he  was  a  dealer  in  poultry,  &c. ;  and 
as  soon  as  he  found  we  didnH  want  any  thing — having  been 
previously  supplied — he  took  himself  ofi"  in  high  dud- 
geon. Before  he  went,  however,  I  had,  with  my  usual 
curiosity,  questioned  him  as  to  the  colour  of  his  teeth, 
and  been  told  that  all  of  his  people's  teeth  were  the  same, 
resulting  from  the  excessive  chewing  of  the  betel-nut. 

"I  liked  the  looks  of  their  boats  and  canvas.  They 
were  very  cleanly  built,  and  were  propelled  by  both  oars 
and  sails.  The  former  were  very  short  and  broad,  almost 
paddles,  and  the  latter — which  generally  consisted  of  a 
single  or  double  lug — were  made  of  grass-matting  sewed 
together,  that  was  lighter  and  more  flexible  even  than 
canvas. 

"Like  most  half-civilized  or  savage  people,  the  occu- 
pants of  these  boats  expressed  themselves  in  quick,  loud, 
and  energetic  language,  accompanied  by  violent  and 
frequent  gesticulation.  To  stand  at  a  distance  and  see 
several  of  them  carrying  on  an  ordinary  conversation,  a 
stranger  would  imagine  them  upon  the  verge  of  a  free 
fight." 

While  approaching  Batavia,  the  wind  was  very  light, 


64  UNPLEASANT    "BACKING   AND    FILLING." 

and  the  sun  so  hot  as  to  make  the  deck  unbearable  for  a 
person  with  thin  soled-shoes.  I  again  turn  to  my 
journal: — 

"At  1.45  P.M.  we  heat  through  the  narrow  passage 
that  separates  the  small  island  of  Amsterdam  from  that 
of  Java,  and  escaped  going  on  shore  by  the  skin  of  our 
teeth :  the  fine  working-qualities  of  our  ship  were  all 
that  saved  us.  There  are  more  small  islands  around  us 
now  than  I  ever  saw  before, — mere  knots  of  earth  with 
little  or  no  elevation,  a  very  dense  growth  of  wood,  and 
averaging  probably  five  hundred  feet  in  circumference." 

I  subsequently  learned  that  these  islands  are  let  out 
by  the  Dutch  authorities  to  the  highest  bidder,  who  then 
cuts  the  wood  and  supplies  the  market  of  Batavia. 

"They  seem  to  be  densely  populated  ;  and  the  houses — • 
which  are  low,  and  built  of  bamboo  and  grass — are 
situated  in  snug-looking,  shady  nooks,  and  seemed  so 
cool  and  airy  from  our  heated  decks,  that  one  almost 
forgot  the  half-blistered  feet  upon  which  he  was  back- 
ing and  filling  around  in  search  of  a  shady  spot  upon 
which  to  put  them.  As  I  write,  I  hear  the  laughing 
voice  of  our  assistant  hydrographer : — '  I  say,  doctor,  you 
should  have  been  with  us  when  we  landed  at  Auger  this 
morning:  there  were  more  than  a  hundred  Malays  on 
the  beach  to  receive  us,  and  I  know  I  could  have  carried 
all  the  clothes  they  had  on,  on  my  left  arm,  at  a  single 
load.  The}'  seemed  to  think  that  nature,  like  beauty, 
"when  unadorned  was  adorned  the  most."  '  " 

Poor  fellows !  One  of  them  now  slumbers  in  the 
fathomless  depths  of  the  coral  sea ;  and  the  other, — his 
honest  heart  beat  its  final  throb  upon  the  unknown  shore 


HOW    TO    WEATHER   HEAT.  65 

of  heathen  Japan,  and,  as  his  wasted  frame  was  lowered 
into  its  Christian  grave  amidst  the  urned  ashes  of  infidel 
millions,  the  words  of  hope — "  I  am  the  Resurrection  and 
the  Life" — floated  solemnly  through  the  silent  air,  and 
told  the  lounging  priests  of  the  Buddhist  temple  that 
reared  its  quaint  form  over  the  stranger's  grave,  that  the 
reign  of  their  gods  of  stone  was  drawing  to  a  close. 

"We  have  just  anchored  between  our  two  consorts, 
and  have  already  been  boarded  by  the  boat  of  a  Dutch 
man-of-war,  the  oflicer  of  which  speaks  English  perfectly. 
He  has  been  so  polite  as  to  give  us  some  useful  informa- 
tion in  regard  to  this  proverbially-unhealthy  port.  He 
says  that  their  squadron,  consisting  of  five  steamers  and 
a  frigate,  has  at  present  several  hundred  men  and  ofiicers 
in  the  hospital, — cases  of  Java  fever, — and  that  as  a  sani- 
tary measure  all  vessels  anchoring  here  are  advised  to 
observe  the  following  rules. 

"  Firstly :  to  have  natives  to  pull  in  their  boats,  so  as 
to  expose  the  men  as  little  as  possible : — 

"Secondly:  to  do  no  work  between  10  a.m.  and 4  p.m. 
that  takes  the  men  out  from  under  the  awnings. 

"  Thirdly  and  lastly :  to  spread  the  latter  as  soon 
as  the  sun  begins  to  dissipate  the  overcast  sky,  to  keep 
them  spread  until  the  sky  again  becomes  overcast  in  the 
evening,  and  then  to  trice  them  up  so  that  the  heat  may 
radiate  from  the  deck  before  night.  In  that  way,  he 
said,  they  managed  to  keep  so  cool  as  often  to  be  able  to 
get  to  sleep  before  midnight:  neglect  these  precations 
and  the  lower  decks  would  be  like  ovens.  We  thanked 
our  adviser,  and  he  took  his  leave." 

I  shall  say  little  in  regard  to  Batavia:    the  road  has 


66  CHEAP    LIVING. 

been  travelled  too  often.  I  turn  to  my  journal  and  select 
the  few  following  extracts : — 

"  The  ship's  sides  and  decks  are  so  hot  that  one  almost 
melts  in  his  bunk,  and  to  sleep  on  deck  in  the  dew  is  said 
to  be  certain  sickness." 

Bliss,  the  third  lieutenant  of  the  Hancock,  and  myself 
had  determined  to  go  on  shore. 

"We  had  at  our  disposal  one  of  that  vessel's  boats, 
over  which  was  spread  a  fine  awning,  and  which  was 
pulled  by  Malay  boatmen  hired  by  Captain  Rodgers  from 
the  Government  for  the  small  consideration  of  one  rupee 
each  a  day.  A  rupee  is  equal  to  from  thirty-six  to  forty 
cents,  and  each  man  must  pay  fifteen  of  those  cents  to 
the  authorities  for  being  so  kind  as  to  hire  him  out. 
Thus  he  has  only  some  twenty-two  or  three  left  as  pay- 
ment for  pulling  about  all  day  under  a  broiling  sun. 
This,  however,  is  good  pay ;  for  ten  doits — three  cents — 
will  give  him  food  for  a  day,  and  then  he  has  the  rest  to 
gamble  with.  They  are  the  greatest  gamblers  I  ever 
saw,  except,  perhaps,  the  Chinese. 

"  After  pulling  a  mile  or  more  from  the  ship,  we 
reached  the  mouth  of  a  canal,  up  which  we  passed  to 
the  landing.  "VVe  were  told  that  it  was  a  most  danger- 
ous thing  to  cross  the  bar  at  its  mouth  when  it  was 
blowing  fresh,  as  there  was  always  a  bad  sea  breaking, 
and  hundreds  of  sharks  and  crocodiles  ready  to  pick  up 
the  inmates  of  a  swamped  boat. 

"These  animals,  it  seems,  abound  in  great  numbers 
about  the  bar, — the  sharks  outside  and  the  crocodiles  in- 
side,—  and  feed  upon  the  refuse  of  the  city  as  it  is  swept 
down  to  them  by  a  two-knot  current,  sometimes  making 


ANY   THING   BUT    SPRING-WATER.  67 

a  dessert  of  some  capsized  unfortunate.  The  shark  never 
crosses  the  bar,  and  the  crocodile  never  goes  up  higher 
than  the  first  houses ;  so  the  natives  bathe  in  perfect  se- 
curity in  the  part  of  the  canal  running  through  the  city. 
The  water  of  this  stream  is  of  a  dirty  grayish- white  colour, 
holds  in  suspension  the  sweepings  of  the  city,  and  smells 
horribly.  One  would  scarcely  imagine  it  conducive  to 
cleanliness  to  bathe  in  it ;  and  yet  it  is  the  ivater  fur- 
nished to  shippmg  for  drinjdng-jmrjjoscs.  It  is  also  used 
— after  passing  through  stone  filterers — by  the  entire 
population  of  Batavia, —  a  fact  which  causes  many  '  first- 
comers'  to  say  very  little  about  thirst  for  several  days 
after  their  arrival. 

"I  judged,  from  various  indications,  that  the  Dutch 
have  these  people  in  complete  subjection.  Even  the 
natives,  their  own  fellows,  who  are  so  fortunate  as  to 
be  in  the  Government  employ,  are  respected,  feared,  and 
obeyed  as  though  they  were  superior  beings.  This  was 
exemplified  even  in  the  conduct  of  our  temporary  boat- 
men, who,  when  we  would  get  fouled  among  other 
boats, —  the  canal  was  always  crowded, —  cleared  a  track 
for  us  with  curses,  threats,  and  frequent  blows,  and  were 
scarcely  scowled  upon  in  return.  I  thought  this  strange, 
as  my  previous  idea  of  the  Malay  character  was  that  of 
a  wild,  untamable,  treacherous,  and  warlike  race." 

We  have  landed  at  the  lower  town,  and  hired  a  con- 
veyance to  take  us  up  to  the  city. 

"  Our  carriage  was  a  comfortable,  strongly-built,  double 
buggy,  that  ran  on  four  very  small  and  solid  wheels  and 
was  drawn  by  two  very  small  and  solid  horses, —  horses 
about  the  size  of  a  large  Shetland  pony.     Our  driver  was 


68  OPPRESSIVE    CLOTHING. 

a  Malay,  wlio  was  very  warmly  clad  for  that  country. 
He  had  on  a  large  oval-crowned  straw  hat,  a  gown-like 
garment  of  fancy  calico,  and  was  protected  from  the  sun 
by  the  extensively-projecting  roof  of  the  vehicle.  He 
carried  a  long  whip,  which,  he  told  us,  the  law  required 
him  to  crack  at  every  bridge,  corner,  or  approaching  car- 
riage, and,  further,  that  at  night  every  carriage  had  to 
drive  before  a  blazing  torch,  held  aloft  by  a  man  who 
rode  behind.  All  of  this  was  to  guard  against  the  risk 
of  unpleasant  contacts.  Unfortunately,  he  did  not  thus 
enlighten  us  until  we  had  rewarded  him  with  an  extra 
rupee  for  putting  himself  into  a  perspiration  in  his  en- 
deavours to  '  make  good  time,'  as  we  thought,  while  in 
reality  it  was  the  law  which  caused  him  to  crack  his  whip 
at  such  a  fearful  rate.  At  first  we  could  not  imagine 
what  could  make  every  one  in  such  a  hurry :  every  coach- 
man that  we  passed  was  cracking  his  long  whip  over  the 
heads  of  his  apparently  crack-proof  ponies." 

After  driving  a  half-mile  or  so,  we  pass  through  an 
enclosure  in  which  are  the  Government  storehouses. 

"  While  passing  through  these  grounds.  Bliss  pointed 
out  to  me  a  heavy  gun,  apparently  a  thirty-tAvo-pounder, 
which  he  said  a  Dutch  officer  had  told  him  was  much 
reverenced  by  the  native  women. 

"  It  seems  that,  like  the  ancient  Athenians,  these 
people  have  an  idea  that  effect  may  exist  without  cause; 
or,  rather,  when  the  occurrence  of  a  certain  every-day 
event  is  looked  for  in  vain,  it  may  bo  brought  about  by 
prayers,  offerings  to  some  deity,  or  the  observance  of 
some  superstitious  form.  The  Malay  ladies  therefore, 
having  invested  this  gun  with  some  miraculous  power, 


A   USEFUL   GUN.  69 

are  under  the  impression  tliat  they  have  only  to  recline 
upon  it  for  a  few  moments,  invoke  the  assistance  of  its 
powerful  influence,  stick  their  offerings  in  the  ground  at 
its  rear,  and  then  return  home  with  an  almost  certainty 
of  their  prayers  being  answered.  '  The  Dutchman  said 
that  that  gun  had  been  there  ever  since  the  English  had 
given  up  the  colony,'  continued  Bliss,  'and  that  there  is 
no  telling  how  much  longer  it  will  remain.  See  there, 
the  flowers  and  fruit  and  pieces  of  gilded  paper  lying 
around  the  breech!' " 

I  had  taken  a  chew  of  "betel-nut,"  and,  having  never 
heard  of  the  fruit  before,  inquired  concerning  it,  and 
wrote  in  my  journal  as  follows: — 

"The  betel-nut  is  used  by  the  natives  of  both  sexes, 
very  much  as  we  use  cavendish, — the  only  difference 
being  that  they  swallow  much  of  the  saliva.  It  is  a  sti- 
mulant, and  is  said  to  impart  strength  when  weak  fi'om 
hunger,  without  any  unpleasant  reaction.  It  grows  upon 
a  tall,  shaft-like  tree,  which  often  attains  a  height  of  from 
one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  is  per- 
fectly free  from  branches,  knots,  or  even  great  irregulari- 
ties of  the  bark.  It  is  a  single  shaft  from  the  ground 
until  within  a  few  feet  of  the  top,  when  a  few  branches 
shoot  out  and  produce  the  nut.  One  of  them  might  be 
taken  by  a  stranger  for  a  very  tall  and  straight  cocoanut- 
tree.  The  preparation  which  they  chew,  and  which  is 
generally  supposed  to  be  simply  a  piece  of  the  nut,  is 
composed  of  equal  parts  of  lime,  the  leaf,  and  the  nut. 
It  has  an  acrid,  burning  taste  at  first,  and  is  far  from 
unpleasant.  The  burning  sensation  proceeds  from  the 
leaf. 


70  THE    BETEL-NUT. 

"The  use  of  this  nut  gives  to  its  consumers  a  most 
disgusting  appearance  about  the  mouth.  They  carry  the 
'quid'  between  the  lower  front-teeth  and  the  lip;  and,  as 
it  is  often  as  large  as  the  lialf  of  one's  thumb,  and  dyes 
the  lips  and  inner  membrane  a  bright  red,  they  look  as 
if  they  had  just  received  a  crushing  blow  in  the  mouth. 
It  is  passing  strange  that  while  the  juice  thus  stains  the 
mouth  red  it  should  convert  the  teeth  into  ebony.  I 
asked  one  of  our  boatmen  why  he  chewed  it,  and  he  said 
it  was  to  make  their  teeth  black.  Dogs  had  white  teeth, 
he  said,  and  they  wished  to  be  different  from  dogs.  He 
gave  as  another  reason  that  they  were  ordered  to  do  so 
by  their  Koran ;  but  this  I  do  not  believe,  as  they  get 
their  Koran  from  the  Arabs." 

"We  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  Mr.  L.  M.  Squires, 
an  American  resident  of  eleven  years,  and  who  sub- 
sequently joined  the  Hancock  in  the  capacity  of  assistant 
naturalist.  We  were  smoking  our  cheroots  in  the  porch 
of  the  Amsterdam  Hotel. 

""While  we  were  thus  smoking  in  the  cool  evening 
breeze,  we  were  joined  by  several  gentlemen,  acquaint- 
ances of  Mr.  Squires's,  and  who  were  presented  to  us. 
The  usual  comments  on  the  state  of  the  weather  were 
got  off  with  happy  success,  and  then  every  one  began  to 
wait  for  his  neighbour  to  say  something  else.  Finally, 
one  of  the  new  arrivals,  an  Englishman,  asked  me,  ab- 
ruptly, if  I  had  ever  seen  a  native  under  the  influence 
of  the  '  muck.' 

"  '  The  what  ?'  I  asked. 

"  ^The  muck!  the  running  much' 


THE    RUNNING    MUCIL  "  71 

"I  replied  in  the  negative,  adding  that  I  had  never 
before  heard  the  expression. 

"  He  expressed  great  surprise  at  this,  and  proceeded  to 
tell  us  that  the  running  muck  was  often  productive  of 
many  deaths. 

"  I  thought  this  a  rather  singular  piece  of  information 
to  come  by  itself,  but  contented  myself  with  observing, 
*You  don't  say  so!' 

"  The  Englishman  cleared  his  throat,  swelled  very 
large,  called  for  a  glass  of  '  'arf-and-'arf,'  and  continued 
as  follows : — 

"  '  Some  few  of  the  natives  here  consume  quantities 
of  opium  in  various  forms ;  and  the  result  is  that,  in  due 
course  of  time,  their  features  become  sharp,  the  skin  is 
drawn  over  them  like  parchment,  and,  losing  their 
minds,  they  become  more  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty 
than  the  tigers  themselves.  Armed  with  the  long  and 
flexible  kreiss,  (a  sharp  dirk-knife,  whose  edges  are 
wavy  and  of  beautiful  temper,)  they  rush  frantically 
from  their  houses,  and  run  as  swiftly  as  their  limbs  will 
carry  them, —  sometimes  naked,  sometimes  clothed, 
always  mad.  Rushing  through  the  crowded  streets  in 
this  way,  their  only  aim  seems  to  be  to  destroy  life, — 
stabbing,  biting,  cursing,  kicking  every  one  whom 
chance  throws  across  their  path. 

"  'As  soon  as  he  is  seen  in  this  state,  terror  proclaims 
the  news  far  and  wide.  "Amoak!  amoak!"  is  screamed 
by  the  whole  population,  just  as  "fire!  fire!"  is  in  our 
own  cities.  Every  man  grasps  the  first  weapon  that 
comes  to  hand,  and  follows  the  flying  path  of  the  com- 
mon  enemy.      Very  long  spears  are,  however,  preferred 


72  DEATH   TO   THE   TIGER  ! 

to  the  shorter  kreiss ;  and  with  these  they  pen  him  up 
in  a  corner,  and  lance  him  to  death  with  as  much  or 
more  gusto  than  they  would  a  tiger.  As  many  as  forty 
persons  were  once  killed  by  one  of  these  maniacs  before 
he  could  be  "  cornered ;"  and  yet  there  is  no  law  against 
the  use  of  opium.'  " 

The  word  "  muck"  is  a  corruption  of  the  Javanese 
"amoak,"  to  kill ;  and  this  latter  is  seldom  heard,  except 
when  some  poor  wretch  is  ranging  the  frightened  town 
with  strained  muscles  and  starting  eyes,  and  with  death 
closing  around  his  path  at  every  stride. 

In  regard  to  tigers,  another  of  the  party  remarked 
that  as  many  as  eighteen  hundred  had  been  killed  on 
the  island  in  a  single  year;  but  I  subsequently  learned 
that  eleven  hundred  was  the  greatest  number  for  one 
year.  The  Government  pays  so  much  a  head  for  each 
one  that  is  destroyed,  and  keeps  a  regular  account  of  the 
number.  These  animals  are  very  destructive  to  cattle, 
and  numbers  of  the  natives  also  lose  their  lives  yearly  by 
them. 

In  the  interior  of  Java  there  is  yet  a  native  prince, 
who  holds  his  power  from  the  Dutch,  receives  a  regular 
salary,  and  keeps  up  the  shadow  of  their  ancient  cus- 
toms. He  has  the  title  of  Sooletan,  and  we  somehow 
found  ourselves  talking  about  him.     My  journal  says : — 

"  Out  of  his  salary  he  must  support  an  army  of  at 
least  two  thousand  men,  as  quite  that  number  is  re- 
quired to  make  up  one  of  his  grand  tiger-hunts.  Then 
he  has  his  household  expenses,  his  harem,  his  dancing- 
girls,  &c.  Singular  beings  are  these  dancing-girls. 
Taken  at  a  tender  age  from  the  mother's  care,  they  are 


MALAY   DANCING-GIRLS.  73 

turned  over  to  a  class  of  men  whose  only  duty  it  is  to 
arrive  at  the  one  end  of  having  their  bones  and  muscles 
in  such  a  state,  by  the  time  they  are  matured,  as  to  admit 
of  the  form  being  thrown  into  almost  any  position. 
They  are  described  as  happy,  cheerful  creatures,  in  spite 
of  the  cruelty  of  their  earl}'  training." 

One  more  extract  in  regard  to  Java,  and  I  have  done. 
We  were  talking  of  pirates — Malay  pirates — who  hung 
around  Gaspar  Straits, — the  very  place  we  were  going 
to  survey.  The  subject  was  interesting,  especially  to 
nervous  people  who  were  about  to  venture  among  them: — 

"  'They  are  getting  scarce,  now,  since  war-steamers 
have  visited  us,'  remarked  one  of  the  party.  'It  is  only 
once  or  twice  a  j-ear  that  we  hear  of  their  attacking  a 
ship :  still,  they  are  known  to  exist  in  numbers.  You 
will  have  to  look  out  for  them  in  your  little  schooner: 
they  would  make  short  work  of  her.''  I  thought  of  the 
high  sides  of  the  Kennedy,  and  felt  comfortable.  I 
little  thought  that  in  less  than  a  month  I  should  be 
ordered,  with  a  boat  and  six  men,  to  join  the  Cooper : 
had  I  known  it,  my  feelings  might  have  been  a  shade 
less  placid." 

We  are  again  under  all  sail,  beating  up  for  our  work- 
ing-ground. 


CHAPTER  y. 

WE   REACH   CASPAR  STRAITS,  AND    COMMENCE    OUR    SURVEY   BY   FIRtNO   A   GUN 

1    AM     ORDERED     ON     TEMPORARY   DUTY,     -WHICH     LASTS     FOUR     MONTHS 

AND     ENABLES      ME     TO     VISIT      SINGAPORE VAST     PREPARATIONS      OF     AN 

ALARMIST    TO    RECEIVE     PIRATES,    AND     THE    WAY    IN    WHICH    WE     LEARNED 
THE    MEANING   OF   THE    MALAY   WORD  "  MAN-AR-R." 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  January,  1854, 
that  we  fired  our  first  gun  for  "base  by  sound."  We 
were  in  Gaspar  Straits,  lat.  3°  19'  S.,  long.  106°  40'  E. 
The  "rear  division" — as  we  called  our  portion  of  the 
squadron — had  begun  the  long-talked-of  survey.  I  will 
indulge  in  a  few  remarks  in  regard  to  this  work,  and 
then  pass  on  to  more  interesting  matter. 

These  straits— which  are  the  door  through  which  nine- 
tenths  of  the  world's  trade  with  China  passes — had  never 
been  properly  surveyed,  were  said  to  be  full  of  hidden 
dangers,  and  were  known  to  be  w^ashed  by  strong  and 
uncertain  currents. 

We  bent  to  our  task  with  the  spirit  and  energy  of 
"new  brooms," — worked  through  rain,  wind,  sharks, 
tigers,  snakes,  &c. — and  on  the  15tli  of  May  it  was  done. 
We  came  out  of  this  work  without  the  loss  of  a  man,  and 
the  result  of  our  labours  was  satisfactory  in  the  extreme. 
We  found  so??ie  parts  of  some  charts  correct  ;  but,  generally 
speaking,  they  were  woefully  out.  We  found  dozens  of 
rocks  and  shoals  where  all  the  charts  gave  safe  water,  and 

74 


HO^Y    UNDERWRITERS    ARE    SWINDLED.  75 

we  found  blue  water  where  all  the  charts  located  rocks 
and  shoals.  We  found,  also,  evidences  of  fraud  and 
rascality  on  the  part  of  ship-masters  toward  the 
underwriters.  In  regard  to  the  latter  let  my  journal 
speak : —  ' 

"  Captain  Rodgers  has  just  found  the  wreck  of  the 
'  Memnon,'  lying  off  the  northwest  point  of  Pulo  Leat, 
(Leat  Island.)  When  the  water  is  smooth  and  polished, 
you  can  look  down  from  a  boat  and  see  eveiy  thing  very 
plainly;  and,  as  there  was  a  fine,  heavy  anchor  lying 
under  her  bow,  Bridge  hitched  on  to  it  with  the  launch 
and  hoisted  it  up.  It  is  now  on  board  of  the  Hancock, 
and  will  probably  sell  in  Hong-Kong  for  two  .or  three 
hundred  dollars :  quite  a  healthy  sum  to  be  divided  among 
sixty  men  the  first  time  they  go  on  shore. 

"  The  captain  of  this  vessel  reported,  when  she  was 
lost,  that  he  '  had  struck  on  a  rock  that  was  some  miles 
from  any  land  and  put  down  on  no  chart:'  hence,  the 
underwriters  paid  the  loss.  Had  they  known  that  an 
ignorant  or  careless  man  had  run  his  ship  upon  a  rock 
within  pistol-shot  of  a  large  island  during  broad  daylight, 
they  would  have  saved  their  money.  Of  course,  we  will 
hunt  no  more  for  the  'Memnon  Rock,' — the  hidden 
danger  on  which  the  ship  was  said  to  have  struck." 

During  the  survey  we  made  several  discoveries  similar 
to  this.  We  erased  from  the  chart  all  such  imaginary 
dangers,  dotted  it  with  others  which  really  existed  and 
which  had  previously  been  unknown,  and  really  accom- 
plished a  vast  amount  of  work  during  the  four  months 
that  we  were  engaged  upon  it.  Too  much  credit  cannot 
be  awarded  to  Commander  John  Rodgers  for  the  manner 


76  THE    LITTLE    COOPER. 

in  which  our  work  was  laid  out,  or  to  those  who  assisted 
him  in  its  execution. 

During  these  four  months  we  met  with  various  adven- 
tures ;  some  amusing,  some  exciting,  others  that  were 
full  of  peril  to  life  and  limb.  Let  me  again  open  my 
journal : — 

"  Jan.  14,  1854. — Yesterday  morning,  the  schooner 
ran  under  our  stern,  and  hailed  us  to  the  efiect  that 
Commander  Rodgers  had  ordered  an  officer  and  boat  to 
he  detached  from  the  Kennedy,  to  assist  in  their  part  of 
the  work.  There  was  some  hesitation  at  first  as  to  who 
the  officer  should  be ;  but,  as  I  had,  unfortunately,  once 
expressed  myself  in  favour  of  small  vessels,  I  was  finally 
sent.  I  had  a  boat  and  six  men  placed  under  me,  and 
was  ordered  to  report  myself  to  Captain  Stevens,  the 
worthy  officer  in  charge  of  the  schooner.  The  latter 
being  too  small  to  stow  either  my  boat  or  the  crew,  the 
former  is  towed  astern  at  night,  w^hile  the  latter  find 
beds  about  the  spar-deck  as  best  they  can.  This  is  all 
very  pleasant  as  long  as  fair  weather  lasts;  but  when 
men  have  been  working  hard  for  fourteen  hours  they 
don't  fancy  sleeping  in  the  rain  during  the  remaining 
ten.  Stevens,  myself,  and  Baber,  the  master,  are  the 
only  occupants  of  the  cabin;  and  there  are  twenty 
men  on  the  berth-deck,  and  six  about  the  upper — in 
spots.  So  much  for  our  little  schooner  and  her 
hardy  crew.  May  she  steer  clear  of  pirates  and  heavy 
seas!" 

We  have  been  hard  at  w^ork  for  some  weeks,  are  run- 
ning short  of  wood  and  water,  and  find  it  necessary  to  go 
somewhere  to  obtain  supplies : — 


AN    UNPLEASANT   MOUTHFUL.  77 

"At  7  A.M.  all  three  vessels  got  under  way  and  ran 
down  for  an  anchorage  under  Selio  Island,  where  we 
came  to,  abreast  of  a  stream  of  fresh  wate'i'  and  a  perfect 
forest  of  seasoned  firewood  that  Stevens  had  discovered 
a  few  days  previous.  This  island  is  some  four  miles  in 
length  by  one  in  width,  and  differs  from  all  others  we 
have  yet  visited  in  having  lakes  in  its  centre  and  running 
streams  dividing  its  beach.  In  consequence  of  the  fresh 
water,  various  wild  animals  abound  in  its  jungle,  among 
which  I  may  mention  deer  and  wild  hogs  as  the  most 
plentiful.  There  are  any  number  of  snakes  also ;  and  a 
greater  variety  of  insects  than  is  pleasant.  Of  these  latter 
there  is  a  mammoth  spider,  formidable  if  only  through 
his  size  and  extreme  ugliness.  He  spreads  his  heavy  web 
across  nine  open  spaces  (the  jungle  is  hardly  penetrable) 
out  of  ten,  coils  himself  away  in  its  centre,  and  is  ready 
to  dart  upon  his  prey  or  have  his  fabric  destroyed  by  the 
passer-by,  as  the  case  may  be.  Running  once  after  a 
wounded  hog,  I  was  so  unfortunate  as  to  get  one  of  them 
half-way  into  my  mouth,  and  before  I  could  get  clear  of 
him  I  had  to  shell  out  of  my  coat  and  knock  him  off; 
with  his  long  legs  he  had  crawled  over  upon  my  back." 

A  great  hunt  came  off  on  this  island  before  we  carried 
the  vessels  there.  Baber  and  myself,  wishing  to  try 
"camping  out,"  took  the  boat  and  remained  on  it  all 
night,  after  one  of  our  day's  work.  The  men  also  were 
in  high  glee  at  the  idea  of  shooting  the  deer  before  they 
were  awake :  it  was  a  regular  spree.  We  carried  with 
us  a  camp-kettle,  a  piece  of  salt  pork,  bread,  coffee,  &c., 
and,  upon  arriving  at  the  beach,  got  our  tent  pitched  and 
a  large  fire  kindled  just  as  night  came  on.     The  tent  we 


78  A    MATINAL   BATH. 

made  out  of  the  boat's  sail ;  and  for  a  bed  we  had 
two  thicknesses  of  cotton  canvas  between  us  and  the 
ground. 

We  made  a  very  comfortable  supper,  smoked  our  pipes, 
lay  down  with  our  feet  to  the  fire,  and  imagined  that  we 
were  going  to  sleep.  One  hour  later  we  were  all  in  the 
boat,  the  fire  grew  dim,  and  the  mosquitos  and  sand- 
bugs  danced  the  dance  and  sung  the  song  of  a  bloody 
victory:  we  had  been  literally  driven  ofl:".  The  next 
morning  we  awoke  at  break  of  day  and  proceeded  to 
land. 

It  had  been  low-tide  when  we  returned  to  the  boat ;  it 
was  now  quite  high :  the  water  had  been  knee-deep  then ; 
it  was  now  over  one's  head.  One  of  the  riien,  in  his  sleepy 
drowsiness,  stepped  out  of  the  boat  to  lift  the  anchor  and 
wade  her  to  the  beach.  The  result  may  be  imagined : — a 
heavy  plunge,  much  subsequent  pufiing  and  splashing, 
and  a  great  deal  of  hearty  laughing. 

It  was  hardly  daylight  when  we  entered  the  jungle,  and 
we  hunted  bravely  until  near  noon.  During  this  time  we 
fired  at  several  heavy  short-legged  deer,  put  a  drove  of 
wild  hogs  of  all  ages  and  sexes  to  a  grunting  flight,  killed 
several  ugly  snakes,  and  finally  returned  to  the  ship  in 
gi*eat  disgust. 

Selio  is  not  inhabited,  but  is  visited  periodically  by 
Malay  fishermen  for  the  purpose  of  catching  and  drying 
the  fresh-water  fish  which  exist  in  its  lakes  by  shoals. 
The  growth  of  trees  upon  it  is  remarkable,  many  of  them 
being  upward  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  "We 
killed  a  number  of  large  wild  pigeons  in  their  branches,  and 
subsequently  found  this  bird  so  plentiful  on  other  islands 


PERILOUS    POSITION    OP    "BUST-PROOF."  79 

that  two  men  with  muskets  killed  several  hundred  as  an 
evening's  work. 

Two  daj's  sufficed  to  fill  us  with  wood  and  water,  and 
on  the  third  day  we  were  again  at  work.  And  now  we 
experienced  a  terrible  fright  on  account  of  old  "bust- 
proof,"  his  master,  and  Lieutenant  Russell.  They  had 
left  the  ship,  as  usual,  at  an  early  hour:  it  had  soon  come 
on  to  blow  hard,  the  sea  had  risen  with  singular  rapidity, 
and  twenty-four  hours  had  passed  without  their  return  : 
we  began  to  fear  they  might  have  swamped.  "With  his 
usual  readiness  of  action,  Commander  Rodgers  got  up 
the  Hancock's  anchor  and  ran  down  to  leeward  in  search 
of  them.  The  next  day  he  returned  with  their  boat  in 
tow. 

They  had  had  a  hard  time;  old  "bust-proof  was 
irreparably  rusted  by  the  rain,  and  the  others  were 
awfully  hungry  and  distressingly  seedy.  They  had 
been  able  to  keep  the  boat  afloat  only  by  constant  exer- 
tion, and  were  about  to  succumb  when  the  Hancock 
hove  in  sight.  Old  "bust-proof"  didn't  go  out  again  for 
some  time. 

After  we  had  been  working  some  two  months,  the 
schooner  w^as  ordered  to  proceed  to  Singapore,  (distant 
some  three  hundred  miles,)  to  communicate  with  the 
consul,  and  return  as  soon  as  possible.  I  was  so  fortunate 
as  to  remain  by  her  during  the  trip,  and  on  the  7th  of 
March  we  found  ourselves  at  anchor  off  that  city. 

While  Stevens  and  myself  were  stepping  into  a  sampan 
to  go  on  shore,  a  light  row-boat  pulled  alongside,  in  the 
centre  of  which  stood  a  very  black  Hindoo  with  a  very 
white  turban  around  his  head.     He  introduced  himself 


80  WE   VISIT    SINGAPORE. 

as  follows: — "Me  Mohammed! — consul-man.  Plenty, 
oh  !  p?e?i(y  letter  at  consul-house  for  American  man-war." 
But  I  will  say  nothing  more  of  letters ;  for  there  was  but 
one  for  me,  and  that  a  half-year  old. 

We  went  to  the  consul's,  and  thence  to  the  London 
Hotel,  where  we  tasted  a  bottle  of  sour  Bordeaux,  drank 
another  of  pale  ale,  and  engaged  a  room  at  two  dollars  a 
day. 

I  will  be  brief  in  regard  to  our  treatment  while  in  that 
city.  I  will  only  say  that,  from  the  governor  down  to 
the  ship-chandlers,  there  seemed  to  be  a  determination 
that  we  should  never  dine  at  the  hotel.  Such  hospi- 
tality I  never  saw  before.  In  company  with  the  consul, 
we  went  to  call  upon  the  governor's  family  shortly  after 
our  arrival. 

"We  got  into  our  undress  uniform,  then  into  a  car- 
riage, which  we  hired  for  a  dollar  a  day,  and  after  a  five 
minutes'  drive  commenced  winding  around  the  hill 
which  towers  over  the  city,  and  upon  the  crest  of 
which  stands  the  palace.  This  spiral  road  was  a  mile 
or  more  in  length,  and  wormed  through  the  tastefully 
laid-out  grounds  in  the  centre  of  which  stood  the 
edifice.  We  drove  through  groves  of  the  fragrant  nut- 
meg and  of  the  luscious  mangosteen,  crushing  the  pre- 
cious fruit  under  our  wheels  and  breathing  the  perfumed 
air  that  cooled  our  brows.  It  fully  realized  my  idea  of  an 
Eastern  scene :  it  was  one  of  those  drives  that  flush  the 
cheek  of  the  invalid  and  dift'use  a  dreamy  languor 
through  the  frame  of  health;  it  was  grand.  As  we 
thus  wound  around  the  hill,  we  gazed  upon  a  con- 
stantly-changing scene.     We   saw  the  whole  of  Siuga- 


THE    PALACE    HEIGHT.  81 

pore  twice  over;  for  the  palace  rose  out  of  the  centre 
of  the  town  almost,  overlooking  every  thing.  Thus  we 
looked  down  upon  the  city  by  piecemeal  at  iirst,  and 
finally,  upon  reaching  the  summit,  took  in  '  the  whole' 
at  a  revolving  glance, — the  city,  the  bay,  the  opposite 
land,  the  back-country  with  its  dense  jungle,  and  the 
immediate  grounds  around  our  feet.  This  also  w^as 
grand. 

"  We  were  ushered  into  the  reception-room  by  a 
fancifully-liveried  native,  and  were  soon  after  met  by 
the  ladies.  We  found  Mrs.  and  Miss  Butterworth  most 
accomplished  personages,  and  passed  a  pleasant  fifteen 
minutes.  They  showed  us  a  stone  which  had  lately 
been  brought  from  a  mountain  in  the  island  of  Banca, 
(one  of  those  around  which  we  were  surveying,)  and 
which  exerted  a  powerful  influence  over  the  needle : 
evevy  one  called  it  a  loadstone.  Stevens,  having  found 
that  it  would  not  attract  a  cambric-needle,  pronounced  it 
a  singular  iron-ore ;  and  such  subsequently  proved  to  be 
its  nature." 

We  had  been  riding  around  in  our  one-dollar  vehicle 
to  see  the  sights.  Here  is  one  of  them,  a  Chinese 
temple: — 

"  As  we  entered  through  the  massive  stone-work,  we 
were  followed  by  a  dozen  or  more  loafing  Chinamen, 
who  stopped  their  gambling  (gambling  in  the  verj^ 
porch  of  their  temple !)  to  watch  our  movements.  We 
were  very  respectful  at  first,  for  fear  of  alarming  their 
jealousy,  throwing  away  our  cigars  and  taking  oflJ"  our 
hats.  These  loafers,  however,  motioned  us  to  light 
other  cigars  and  to  resume  our  covering,  and  were  so 


82  THE    SriBITS   OF    GOOD    AND    EVIL. 

attentive  as  to  bring  iis  lire.  Tlioy  also  spit  ou  the 
smooth  and  polished  floor,  to  show  lis,  I  suppose,  that 
we  were  at  liberty  to  do  likewise.  In  addition  to  all 
this,  they  advanced  to  the  chancel  and  commenced  a 
series  of  violent  bends  and  gesticulations  for  our  in- 
formation. They  Avere  showing  us  how  they  paid  their 
devotions.  They  stood  before  a  massive  altar,  decked 
out  after  the  manner  of  the  Eomish  Church,  having 
upon  its  right  a  colossal  statue  of  a  very  benign  old 
gentleman,  and  upon  its  left  a  similar  one  with  the 
most  hideously-diabolical  expression  that  I  ever  saw. 
The  one  on  the  right  shone  as  the  concentration  of 
ever}'  thing  good,  and  extended  his  left  hand  in  an 
endless  blessing.  He  of  the  left — the  rampant  power 
of  evil — settled  his  gaze  of  eternal  hate  and  defiance 
upon  the  averted  eye  of  the  first,  and  grasped  a  bleeding 
heart'in  his  uplifted  hand.  It  was  to  this  latter  that  all 
the  devotions  were  addressed :  no  one  looked  at  the 
other.  We  gave  them  a  half-crown  for  putting  them- 
selves into  a  perspiration  by  their  furious  pantomime, 
and  continued  our  drive." 

We  were  driving  out  to  the  hospital  of  Dr.  Little, 
where  many  of  our  men  were  on  their  backs.  It  seems 
that  over  two  months  of  exposure,  toil,  and  privation, 
had  done  its  work.  Seven  out  of  the  twenty  men 
composing  the  crew  had  been  taken  with  the  fever 
previous  to  our  arrival,  and  been  sent  on  shore  as  soon 
as  possible  to  give  them  the  benefit  of  comfortable 
quarters.  Stevens,  too,  was  placed  hors  de  combat  by 
a  bruised  hand,  and  Baber  and  myself  were  taking'  it 
turn-and-turn-about   to   indulij^e   in  chills  or  somethinsr 


HAD   ENOUGH    OF    SURVEYING.  83 

of  that   sort:    we  were  fit  for  any  thing  but  a  return 
to  our  labours. 

As  a  general  thing,  one  of  us  made  it  convenient  to 
visit  our  helpless  shipmates  daily.  They  were  a  superior 
class  of  men  to  the  general  run  of  sailors ;  they  could  all 
read,  and  they  derived  great  satisfaction  from  the  papers 
which  we  took  them.  This  hospital  of  the  doctor's  was 
situated  outside  of  the  city,  in  the  midst  of  his  vast  nut- 
meg-plantation ;  and  as  we  now,  in  the  continuation 
of  our  drive,  passed  through  a  wide  gateway  and  en- 
tered upon  the  latter  sweet-smelling  hundred-acre  lot, 
we  met  the  owner  on  his  way  into  town.  He  turned 
and  accompanied  us  back  to  the  hospital,  where  we 
found  two  men  delirious  but  the  others  doing  better.  I 
may  as  well  remark  here  that,  after  keeping  the  schooner 
at  anchor  some  weeks  in  hopes  of  their  recovery,  we 
were  finally  forced  to  leave  three  of  them  in  charge 
of  the  consul,  with  instructions  to  forward  them  to  us 
should  they  recover.  They  did  recover  during  the  next 
month,  and,  having  had  enough  of  surveying,  took  care 
to  forward  themselves  ofi"  by  the  first  ship.  They  de- 
serted, and  I  could  not  blame  them ;  for  the  work  on 
which  we  were  to  be  steadily  engaged  for  years  was 
enough  to  break  down  jackasses,  and  they  were  not 
paid  half  the  wages  they  could  command  in  merchant- 
ships  for  doing  half  the  amount  of  work.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  Congress  will  reward  the  men  who  were  too 
honest  to  desert,  and  who  returned  to  their  homes  after 
that  miserable  cruise  with  bowed  heads  and  broken 
frames,  the  wrecks  of  what  they  were  at  its  com- 
mencement. 


84  NUTMEG   PLANTATIONS. 

As  we  returned  through  his  orchard  of  nutmeg-trees, 
the  doctor  indulged  us  with  a  few  remarks  in  regard  to 
their  culture,  &c. ;  and,  as  nine  people  out  of  ten  use 
nutmeg  in  some  form,  I  will  repeat  here  what  was  then 
said  about  them. 

It  took  the  planter  twenty  years  to  get  his  trees  well 
covered  with  fruit,  he  said,  as  he  had  to  raise  them  from 
the  nutmeg  itself.     The  process  was  this: — 

A  man  bought  a  hundred  acres  of  ground,  and  planted 
nutmegs  over  it  at  a  distance  of  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet 
apart.  At  the  end  of  eight  years  the  trees  have  grown 
and  many  of  them  bear  fruit,  and  he  can  thus  tell  the 
male  tree  from  the  female.  All  of  the  former  (one  to 
every  dozen  females  excepted)  are  now  dug  up  and  cast 
away  and  another  nutmeg  planted  in  their  place.  Then, 
at  the  end  of  eight  more  years,  another  culling  process 
takes  place,  and  more  nutmegs  are  planted.  In  this 
way  the  tw^enty  years  are  soon  consumed. 

The  doctor  added  that  if  either  of  us  would  rig  a 
purchase  for  distinguishing  between  the  male  and  female 
nutmeg,  we  might  make  millions  of  money  by  going 
around  to  the  different  plantations,  picking  out  the 
latter,  and  thus  enabling  men  to  get  a  plantation  under 
full  headway  in  eight  instead  of  sixteen  or  twenty-four 
years. 

"  These  trees,"  he  continued,  "  bear  all  the  year  through. 
You  must  have  men  to  go  daily  from  one  to  the  other, 
picking  the  fruit  as  it  ripens.  It  is  generally  the  first 
thing  done  in  the  morning.  In  this  way  each  tree  will 
give  you  several  nutmegs  daily,  probably  as  many  as 
twelve  hundred  dui'iug  the  year."    So  much  for  nutmegs. 


THE    LAST    OF   THE    OPIUM    SMUGGLERS.  85 

Taking  dinner  one  day  ^\dtll  Dr.  Little,  we  were 
associated  with  a  Captain  and  Mrs.  Francis,  the  former 
of  whom  I  could  not  but  admire  as  a  bold  seaman  and 
successful  trader,  while  the  latter  challenged  the  admira- 
tion of  every  one  by  her  extreme  beauty  and  elegance  of 
manner.  They  were  the  last  of  their  band, — this  opium- 
smuggler  and  his  beautiful  wife. 

"Why  don't  you  give  up  the  trade,  Francis?"  asked 
the  doctor.  "  Don't  you  see  that  your  brig  is  the  only 
one  left  out  of  twenty-two  sail?  and  don't  you  know 
that  all  are  beggars  who  have  gone  before  you  ?" 

"No;  I  don't  know  any  thing  of  the  sort,"  replied 
Francis.  "There  is  ,  and  ,  who  are  comfort- 
able 3'et;  and  I  have  got  some  thousands  of  pounds 
myself  to  fall  back  upon  when  I  break  down.  As  long 
as  the  brig  lasts  I'm  bound  to  hang  by  her." 

I  looked  at  his  wife,  and  I  thought  I  saw  a  brightening 
of  the  eye  and  a  swelling  of  the  breast  as  he  thus  spoke  of 
the  future.  I  looked  at  him,  and  saw  the  last  of  a  resolute 
and  desperate  band  who  for  years  had  defied  the  Chinese 
authorities  and  held  the  slow  poison  to  the  lips  of  the 
opium-smoker.  I  looked,  and  knew  not  whether  most 
to  admire  or  condemn  this  the  last  of  those  resolute 
adventurers,  half  merchant-captains,  half  pirates,  who 
had  for  years  devoted  themselves  to  the  perilous  service 
of  the  Calcutta  and  Bombay  merchants.  Here  is  what 
that  service  was : — 

The  demand  for  opium  in  China  caused  great  quanti- 
ties of  it  to  be  shipped  from  Calcutta  and  Bombay.  The 
Chinese  authorities,  seeing  the  injury  it  was  efiecting  on 
the  whole  nation,  stationed  war-junks  along  their  coasts 


86  RECKLESS    SAILING. 

to  prevent  its  being-  landed.  Reckless  men,  with  armed 
followers  and  fast  vessels,  stepped  forward,  and  engaged 
to  laud  the  poison  under  the  very  bows  of  the  war-juuks 
and  to  bring  back  silver  in  return.  Their  vessels  were 
armed  as  well  as  their  followers;  they  received  high 
wages,  and  threAV  away  their  money  in  riot  and  dissipa- 
tion. If  necessary,  they  went  through  blood :  the  opium 
must  he  landed  at  every  risk;  the  lives  of  a  few  dozen 
Imperial  sailors  were  nothing.  While  at  sea,  they  kept 
clear  heads,  and  devoted  their  entire  attention  to  the  one 
great  thing  of  making  a  quick  passage.  Masts  and  sails 
were  nothing  to  them:  time  was  all  they  looked  to. 
They  gloried  in  heavy  weather  when  it  urged  them 
ahead,  and  became  fretful  and  desperate  when  it  threw 
them  back.  It  wanted  reckless  men  to  lead  such  a 
reckless  life.  "Prudence  is  the  better  part  of  valour" 
wouldn't  have  applied  to  them. 

Our  little  schooner  was  a  source  of  w^onder  and  sur- 
prise to  both  the  foreign  and  native  population  of  Singa- 
pore. The  former  pulled  around  her  in  their  light  sam- 
pans, admired  her  beauty,  and  complimented  us  upon 
our  reckless  hardihood  in  trusting  our  lives  to  such 
an  atom  for  a  cruise  around  the  world;  the  latter  com- 
pared her  to  a  large  phrau,  and  accused  us  of  having 
stolen  the  lines  of  that  peculiar  vessel  before  building 
her.  Both  parties  laughed  at  the  idea  of  her  weathering 
a  typhoon :  they  knew  not  how  much  it  took  to  smother 
a  New- York  pilot-boat  when  she  lies-to  under  a  close- 
reefed  foresail. 

Let  me  again  turn  to  my  journal : — 

"A  singular  worm  is  to  be  seen  on  the  surface  of  this 


AN    OCEAX    CENTIPEDE.  87 

harbour  when  the  water  is  smooth  and  polished,  during 
the  absence  of  all  wind.  It  is  from  three  to  four  inches 
in  length,  has  its  body  made  up  of  a  hundred  joints 
apparently,  has  hundreds  of  centipede-like  legs  along 
its  entire  sides,  is  covered  with  a  short  fine  hair  or  fuzz, 
and  swims  quickly  and  with  a  zigzag  track.  The  natives 
fear  their  bite  greatly,  and  invariably  destroy  them  when 
they  can.  They  have  bright  red  eyes,  and  are  altogether 
most  disgusting-looking  wretches.  One  of  the  boatmen 
dipped  me  up  several,  which  I  transferred  to  a  bottle  full 
of  spirits  of  wine,  much  to  their  annoyance.  They  died 
hard,  and  emitted  a  bluish  fluid,  which  the  natives  said 
was  poison.  These  latter  gloated  over  their  spasmodic 
and  protracted  efibrts  to  escape  from  the  spirits,  pretty 
much  as  old  sailors  admire  the  expiring  agonies  of  a 
dying  shark." 

On  the  23d  of  March,  Stevens  concluded  that  he 
had  waited  long  enough  for  the  sick  to  recover,  and 
got  up  the  anchor  on  our  return.  We  had  a  fair  passage 
to  Selio  Island,  where  we  were  to  have  fallen  in  with 
the  Hancock  and  Kennedy,  but,  seeing  nothing  of  them, 
had  to  start  off  on  a  hunt.  We  found  them,  at  the 
end  of  twenty-four  hours,  snugly  stowed  away  under  the 
lee  of  a  number  of  pigeon-islands,  and,  after  telling 
them  the  news,  asked  theirs  in  return. 

We  found  that  they  had  passed  through  several  ad- 
ventures during  our  absence,  some  unpleasant  and  one 
quite  amusing :  but  let  them  speak  for  themselves. 

"  Dr.  Alexander,  of  the  Hancock,  was  attacked  by 
sharks  while  wading  on  a  reef  in  search  of  shells,  and 
came  near  being  carried  ofl".     Fortunately  the  water  was 


88  A   FIGHT   WITH    SHARKS. 

only  knee-deep,  and  he,  retaining  his  presence  of  mind, 
was  enabled  to  keep  a  pretty  firm  footing,  while  by  well- 
directed  thrusts  with  a  long  bowie-knife,  which  he  drew 
from  his  back,  he  succeeded  in  keeping  them  oft'  until 
the  boat  came  to  his  assistance.  Then  he  got  into  her 
with  amazing  agility  and  inquired  into  his  damages.  He 
found  himself  minus  his  right  boot-leg,  a  large  piece 
of  the  right  leg  of  his  drawers,  and  a  small  piece  of  the 
skin  from  his  right  calf.  The  shark  had  evidently  a 
fancy  for  his  right  leg  below  the  knee." 

Shortly  after  this  adventure  the  Hancock  ran  short  of 
coal  and  returned  to  Batavia  for  more,  leaving  the  Ken- 
nedy at  Selip  Island  to  make  tidal  observations.  These 
observations  were  to  be  made  on  a  rock  known  as 
"White  Eock,"  some  miles  from  the  ship  and  entirely 
cut  oft'  from  the  island.  Lieutenant  J.  H.  Russell  was 
ordered  upon  the  duty,  and  had  with  him  a  small  boat, 
three  men,  a  tent,  and  cooking-utensils.  The  boat  was 
also  armed  and  provisioned,  as  was  the  general  order,  in 
case  of  some  unlooked-for  accident,  and  they  got  along 
very  smoothly  for  some  days.  Let  my  journal  tell  the 
rest : — 

"  One  morning  he  rubbed  his  eyes  and  looked  in  vain 
for  the  boat.  Then  he  called  in  vain  for  two  of  the  men. 
Finally  he  searched  in  vain  for  enough,  provisions  to 
make  a  breakfast  for  hiinself  and  his  remaining  com- 
panion, and  then  began  to  feel  that  he  had  been 
weathered.  Smith  and  Longhead  had  loaded  the  boat 
with  every  th'nr/  edible  and  drinkable,  and  departed  for 
'parts  unknown:'  our  work  was  too  hard  for  them. 
This  discovery  was  no  sooner  made  than  they  began  to 


MORE    DESERTION.  89 

think  tliey  miglit  by  some  means  starve  during  the  next 
week,  and  so  resorted  to  several  ingenious  devices  for 
attracting  attention  to  their  situation.  A  mere  accident 
relieved  them  during  the  next  day."  The  ship  was  im- 
mediately got  under  way  for  Batavia,  from  whence  a  re- 
ward was  announced  among  the  different  islands,  which 
resulted  in  their  final  capture  and  they  and  the  boat 
&c.  being  forwarded  to  us  at  Hong-Kong.  They  had 
landed  on  an  island,  in  a  very  hungry  and  used-up  state, 
and  had  tried  to  pass  themselves  off  as  shipwrecked 
sailors ;  but  the  police  were  too  well  informed  as  to 
their  true  character  to  admit  of  their  yarn  being  ac- 
cepted. 

The  amusing  incident  was  as  follows : — 

"  The  Hancock,  having  anchored  near  an  island  about 
which  she  had  been  surveying  during  the  day,  was  left 
in  charge  of  thirty  fathoms  of  chain  and  the  officer  of 
the  watch,  while  every  one  else  had  gradually  retired  to 
their  beds.  There  had  been  much  talk  about  this  time 
in  relation  to  'Malay  pirates,'  how  they  boarded  ships 
in  their  phraus  at  night,  murdered  all  hands,  &c.  &c. ; 
and  the  possibility  of  such  an  attack  caused  us  to  keep 
constantly  on  guard,  simply  as  a  measure  of  prudence. 
There  was  really  no  cause  for  men  of  even  ordinary 
firmness  to  feel  nervous,  however;  but,  unfortunately, 
there  was  an  'alarmist'  on  board,  who  was  always  imagin- 
ing his  throat  cut,  a  snake  under  his  pillow,  or  something 
of  the  sort ;  and  who  never  went  to  bed  without  screw- 
ing in  his  air-port,  (thermometer  at  100°,)  locking  the 
door  of  his  state-room,  and  arming  himself  in  the  most 
formidable  manner.     He  had  gone  to  bed  this  night  as 


90  WHAT    "MAX-AR"    means    IN    MALAY. 

usual,  with  a  Sliarpe's  rifle,  double-barrelled  gun,  two 
revolvers,  a  bowie-kuife,  &c.  &c.,  and  was  just  getting 
into  a  doze  wdieu  the  quartermaster's  hoarse  voice 
reached  him  from  the  deck, — 

"'Boatahoj-y-ye!' 

"He  grasped  his  guns,  first  one  and  then  the  other, 
and  finally  sat  bolt  upright,  a  revolver  in  each  hand. 

"'Hey,  fellows!  what  is  it?'  he  asked  of  several  as 
they  passed  his  room,  purposely  exclaiming  that  pirates 
were  approaching. 

"'A  swarm  of  phraus  are  pulling  toward  us,'  an- 
swered a  hurried  voice,  as  its  owner  passed  rapidly  to 
the  upper  deck ;  '  bring  your  arms  along. 

"In  a  few  minutes  all  hands  were  on  deck,  gazing 
curiously  toward  the  suspected  objects,  while  the 
quartermaster  was  getting  hoarser  and  hoarser  with 
continued  hailing.  They  looked  like  boats  moving 
stealthil}^  toward  the  ship. 

"  '  Hail  them  in  Malay,  Mr.  Squires,'  said  Commander 
Rodgers. 

"  Squires  threw  himself  back  and  drew  a  long  breath : 
— 'Phrau  man-a-a-ar!' 

"No  answer.  'They  must  have  some  bad  object,  or 
they  would  answer,'  hazarded  the  unsteady  voice  of  a 
semi-alarmist. 

"'Phrau  man-a-a-ar!'     Still  no  answer. 

" '  Say  phrau  man-ar  ahoy,  Squires,'  suggested  a  laugh- 
ing voice  at  his  elbow. 

"'Get  out  with  your  fun!'  exclaimed  the  hailer,  in  a 
voice  of  half-forced  jocularity;  'don't  you  know  that 
man-ar  means  ahoy  ?' 


FLOATING   ISLANDS.  91 

"A  general  laugh  here  caused  him  to  cough  nervously 
and  renew  the  hail: — 'Phrau  man-a-ar!' 

'"Lower  a  boat,  Mr.  Bridges,'  at  length  ordered  the 
caj"  in,  'and  send  her  to  see  what  they  are;  we  may  hail 
here  all  night.'  So  the  boat  was  lowered  and  pulled  off 
toward  the  piratical  phraus.  They  proved  to  be  small 
floating  islets  of  brushwood  and  densely  packed  grass 
drifting  with  the  current;  and  the  discovery  was  no 
sooner  made  than  our  alarmist  was  on  deck. 

'"Why,  where  are  your  guns?'  asked  one. 

"'Jist  mind  your  own  bisness,  will  ye?'  Fortunately 
for  the  navy,  our  alarmist  subsequently  became  disgusted 
with  the  expedition,  and  left  the  service  of  his  country 
for  the  retirement  of  a  country-life." 

These  and  many  similar  incidents  were  now  laid  before 
us  in  return  for  the  letters  we  had  brought;  and,  as  a 
kind  of  dessert  to  the  reunion,  they  showed  us  a  sick-list 
which  seemed  to  proclaim  the  survey  at  an  end :  nearly 
half  our  force  was  hors  de  combat,  and  the  other  half 
was  composed  of  men  whose  overtaxed  muscles  moved 
slowly  to  the  daily  work  Still,  we  hung  to  it  bravely,  and 
were  soon  rewarded  with  the  most  entire  success:  the 
survey  of  Gaspar  Straits  was  ended.  The  Hancock  and 
Kennedy  left  for  Hong-Kong,  via  Singapore,  with  their 
crippled  crews,  toward  its  close,  and  left  the  Cooper  and 
my  boat  to  fill  in  a  few  soundings  and  sail  for  the  former 
place  direct  in  a  few  days.  We  were  destined  to  pass 
through  some  suffering  and  a  vast  deal  of  alarm  and 
anxiety  before  the  expiration  of  that  time ;  but  we  knew 
it  not  then,  and  went  on  our  careless  way. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

■WE    ARE    DESERTED    BY   THE     HANCOCK   AND    KENNEDY,  AND    FIND    OURSELVES 
CALLED    UPON    TO    ENJOY   A   MOONLIGHT   WALK,  WHICH    PROVES    TO    BE    SO 

PLEASANT    THAT    WE    CONTINUE    THE    EXERCISE    FOR    TWO    DAYS WE   VISIT 

A   MALAY   VILLAGE,  AND    ARE    CAUTIONED    AGAINST   THE   FEROCITY   OF   CHI- 
NESE DOGS, 

We  were  now  alone, — we  and  our  little  schooner,  and 
our  still  smaller  boats, — alone  upon  the  confines  of  our 
past  working-ground,  to  linger  there  a  while  and  then 
follow  our  consorts.  We  immediately  entered  upon  the 
execution  of  the  task  which  had  been  left  us ;  we  again 
commenced  the  interminable  soundings,  the  frequent 
angling,  the  prolonged  night-work  over  the  skeleton 
chart  and  the  smooth  deck-board.     Time  rolled  on. 

On  the  evening  of  a  dark  and  stormy  Saturday  night 
we  anchored  near  the  island  of  Banca,  spread  our  thin 
cotton  awning  between  us  and  the  diiving  rain,  and 
looked  with  thankfulness  to  the  day  of  rest  which  stood 
between  us  and  any  further  work.  That  night  we  slept 
well  and  refreshingly ;  Stevens,  myself,  and  Baber,  in  the 
contracted  cabin,  and  our  twenty-five  men  upon  the  far 
more  cramped  and  uncomfortable  berth-deck.  The  next 
morning  the  storm  was  over,  a  bright  sun  ushered  in  the 
sacred  day  and  lit  up  the  gloomy  depths  of  the  tropical 
jungle  near  which  we  were  anchored. 

There  were  tall  trees  growing  out  of  the  dense  under- 
growth, and  patches  of  short,  smooth  grass  between  it 
92 


THE    OCCUPANTS    OF   THE   JUNGLE.  93 

and  tlie  shining  beach.  Altogether,  it  had  a  most  inviting 
look.  So,  after  we  had  eaten  our  plain  breakfast  and  got 
through  with  the  usual  Sunday  muster,  the  captain  and 
Baber  took  our  two  boats  and  landed  for  a  stroll :  it  was 
go  pleasant  to  have  nothing  to  do  and  to  stoop  for  shells 
upon  a  shining  beach. 

The  boats  pulled  in  different  directions,  but  returned 
about  the  same  time;  they  had  a  common  object  draw- 
ing them  back, —  a  Sunday  dinner.  The  last  of  our 
roosters,  an  old  weather-beaten  fellow  who  had  crowed 
alone  for  weeks  around  the  limited  deck,  had  breathed 
his  last. 

They  came  back  and  gave  me  such  glowing  accounts 
of  the  green  grass,  and  of  the  rustling  of  the  wind 
through  the  tall  trees,  that  I  longed  myself  to  roll  upon 
the  smooth  turf,  to  pick  up  shells  upon  the  hard  sand 
beach,  and  to  listen  to  the  rustling  of  the  wind  through 
the  overhanging  foliage.  So  another  party  was  arranged, 
and,  after  the  rooster  had  been  attended  to,  we  got  into 
the  cutter  and  pulled  on  shore.  The  party  consisted  of 
Stevens,  myself,  and  a  number  of  the  crew;  and  we  were 
all  armed  with  carbine  and  pistol,  though  not  with  any 
idea  of  hunting.  We  armed  ourselves  simply  as  a  means 
of  defence,  for  Baber  and  his  whole  boat's  crew  had  been 
chased  from  a  pool  of  rain-water  by  "  some  large  ani- 
mal," while  two  of  the  captain's  men  had  seen  the  tail 
and  hind-legs  of  a  tiger.  The  captain  himself  had  also 
seen  the  tracks  of  deer,  hogs,  monkeys,  and  panthers,  or 
tigers,  he  could  not  say  which;  and,  as  Tanjong-Brekat 
(the  name  of  the  promontory  under  which  we  were 
anchored)  was  known   far  and   wide   as  the  haunt  of 


94  A   CONVINCING   ARGUMENT. 

various  wild  animals,  we   thought  it  better  to  be  pre- 
pared. 

Upon  landing,  we  hauled  up  the  boat  above  high-water 
mark,  after  which  Stevens  gave  orders  for  all  hands  to  be 
back  by  sunset,  and  cautioned  them  to  keep  together  as 
much  as  possible,  as  there  were  known  to  be  both  pan- 
thers and  tigers  in  the  jungle  of  those  large  islands.  He 
ended  by  pointing  out  the  tracks  he  had  seen  in  the 
morning,  and  repeating  his  caution  in  regard  to  their  keep- 
ing company.  The  sight  of  those  huge  hollows,  which 
liad  evidently  been  imprinted  since  the  last  tide,  caused 
some  of  them  to  glance  back  at  the  schooner  as  they  fol- 
lowed a  small  path  that  took  them  through  the  jungle  to 
the  opposite  beach :  the  sight  of  the  tracks  had  had  the 
desired  efiect ;  they  kept  as  close  together  as  the  nature 
of  the  path  would  admit. 

"We  now  started  for  a  point  of  the  island  that  was 
about  two  miles  o&,  keeping  upon  the  hard  sand  of  the 
beach,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  projecting  points 
of  rock  that  caused  us  to  wade  through  the  water, 
had  a  cool  and  shady  walk.  At  the  end  of  a  mile  we 
crossed  a  running  stream  of  cool,  fresh  water,  and,  after 
rounding  the  point,  came  upon  another.  This  latter 
oozed  through  the  sand  on  our  right,  and  caused  us  to 
ascend  the  elevation  to  see  where  it  came  from.  We 
found  a  beautiful  little  pond,  into  the  upper  end  of  which 
the  waters  of  the  low  back-land  emptied  and  subse- 
quently worked  their  way  through  the  sandbank  into 
the  sea. 

The  beach  of  this  pond  was  of  a  dark-blue  sand,  and 
its  inner  banks  were  of  a  soft  and  velvet-like  turf:   the 


ADMIRABLE    LEECHES.  Of) 

heavy  trees  spread  their  densely-leaved  branches  over  it, 
and  shut  out  the  sun  even  from  its  centre.  It  was  not 
more  than  a  hundred  yards  in  circumference,  and  its 
waters  were  singularly  clear  and  limpid.  It  was  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  little  natural  basins  that  I  ever  saw. 
It  looked  so  cool  and  inviting  that  we  took  off  our  heavy 
boots  and  waded  into  it  up  to  our  knees.  Singular  to 
say,  the  water  was  very  warm,  and  we  soon  found  it  to  be 
swarming  with  leeches  ; — a  most  admirable  specimen  of 
leech,  too,  if  we  might  judge  from  the  activity  with 
which  they  attacked  us.  We  got  to  the  beach  in  a  very 
few  strides,  and  pulled  them  oif  from  our  bleeding  feet: 
they  had  cut  through  the  skin  at  the  first  bite.  My 
journal  goes  on  to  say: — 

"It  still  wanted  a  half-hour  of  sunset  when  we  got 
back  to  the  boat,  and,  finding  but  one  man  returned,  we 
rolled  back  on  the  grass  to  let  the  time  pass.  The  men 
came  in  slowly,  in  fours,  in  threes,  never  less  than  in 
pairs.  Two  were  yet  missing,  and  it  was  already  dusk. 
We  waited  until  dark,  and  then  began  to  tremble  for 
their  safety.  The  last  three  men  who  had  come  in  now 
spoke  up,  saying  that  they  had  left  them  on  the  other 
beach  some  three  hours  back,  and  that  they  were  still 
walking  away  from  the  boat  when  they  themselves  had 
struck  through  the  jungle,  to  return  by  a  shorter  cut,  as 
they  imagined :  that  was  all  the}^  knew  about  them. 
They  themselves,  having  got  lost  in  the  bushes,  had 
climbed  a  high  rock  to  sight  the  beach  if  possible,  and 
while  there  had  fired  a  gun  in  hopes  that  some  one 
would  answer  them.  Their  gun  had  no  sooner  exploded 
than  an  awful  roar  had  burst  out  near  them,  causing  a 


96  WE    STOP    AND    TREMBLE. 

hurried  fliglit,  as  they  thought,  toward  the  beach  the}' 
had  left,  but  which  fortunately  took  them  to  that  on 
which  the  boat  was. 

"We  now  fired  several  volleys  without  any  answer,  save 
a  dismal  howl,  and  returned  on  board  to  get  more  ammu- 
nition and  prepare  for  a  night's  search.  We  thought 
they  might  have  retreated  to  the  branches  of  some  tree 
along  the  edge  of  the  other  beach,  and  that  if  we  walked 
up  it  several  miles,  firing  volleys  and  shouting,  they 
might  hear  us  and  come  out.  We  feared  to  penetrate 
the  jungle  at  night:  it  would  have  been  madness. 

"Another  half-hour  passed  and  found  us  again  on 
shore.  We  were  seven  able-bodied  men,  all  armed  to 
the  teeth,  and  confident  of  being  able  to  face  even  a 
tiger:  we  entered  the  narrow  path  and  crossed  the  jungle 
to  the  opposite  beach.  We  found  their  tracks  and  fol- 
lowed them  up  the  beach  for  an  hour  or  more,  keeping  as 
near  the  water  as  possible,  so  as  to  have  a  broad,  open 
space  between  us  and  any  animal  that  might  spring  upon 
us  from  the  jungle,  and  tiring  volleys  and  shouting  every 
ten  minutes. 

"At  the  end  of  this  hour's  walk  we  suddenly  lost  the 
tracks,  and,  going  back  to  regain  them,  found  that  they 
led  into  the  jungle.  The  pale  moon  came  out  about  this 
time  and  showed  us  a  third  track,  smaller  and  rounder 
than  the  others, — the  track  of  some  animal,  an  animal 
that  had  claws.  A  thrill  of  horror  passed  through  our 
hearts  as  we  bent  over  this  last  track:  it  followed  the  others 
into  the  jungle,  and  the  pale  moon  strove  in  vain  to  light 
us  farther ;  we  stopped  and  trembled. 

"About  this  time  one  of  the  men  remarked  that  he 


OFFICERS    SHOULD    ALWAYS    TAKE    THE    LEAD.  97 

smelt  a  goat,  and  another  sprang  violently  from  the 
jungle.  We  heard  a  rushing  sound,  too,  like  that  made 
by  a  large  animal  bursting  through  the  bushes,  and  the 
man  who  had  sprung  back  said,  in  a  faltering  voice,  that 
he  had  seen  a  tiger.  I  remembered  once  hearing  Squires 
say  that  a  tiger  smelt  like  a  goat,  and  felt  hope  die  within 
me.  The  captain  cast  an  anxious  glance  into  the  dark 
forest  ahead  of  us,  and  slowly  stepped  back  to  the  water's 
edge.  'Come!'  he  said;  'there  is  no  use  going  farther: 
we  will  do  what  we  can  for  them  to-morrow.'  So  w^e 
returned  on  board,  and  after  five  hours'  sleep  were  again 
on  the  tramp. 

"  The  party  was  still  composed  of  seven  men,  and  as 
we  struck  boldly  into  the  jungle  the  morning  sun  gave 
us  but  a  subdued  light, — no  ray.  We  entered  in  single 
file,  the  captain  leading  and  I  bringing  up  the  rear, — a 
most  unpleasant  station,  after  I  had  recalled  to  mind  the 
fact  that  a  crouching  tiger  odways  waits  for  the  last  man.  I 
began  to  feel  very  brave,  and  to  remark,  in  a  careless 
manner,  that  'ofiicers  should  always  take  the  lead.'  The 
captain  only  laughed :  he  imagined  very  well  what  I  was 
thinking  about. 

"We  walked  all  that  day,  fired  volley  after  volley,  and 
made  ourselves  hoarse  with  shouting:  still  no  answer, 
save  an  occasional  howl  similar  to  the  one  we  had  heard 
the  preceding  evening.  We  killed  several  ugly,  flat- 
headed  snakes,  a  huge,  poisonous-looking  lizard,  and  a 
small  deer:  the  latter  we  cooked  for  dinner.  We  found 
the  jungle  getting  thicker  and  becoming  broken  by 
swampy  flats  as  we  progressed,  and  had  discovered  a 
leaden-coloured  snake  that  seemed  to  live  coiled  round 


98  TERRIBLE   WALKING. 

the  branches  of  the  lower  bushes  just  about  as  high  as 
we  usually  carried  our  heads :  this  w^as  2^(irticularl}/  plea- 
sant,— worse  even  than  being  the  ^lasi  man.'  I  think  of 
that  walk  even  now  and  shudder.  It  was  after  dark 
when  we  reached  the  schooner;  and  we  returned  without 
hope.  Before  turning  in  it  w'as  determined  to  start  again 
on  the  morrow,  leaving  but  one  well  man  and  the  sick  to 
look  out  for  the  vessel.  "We  thought  to  find  some  sign 
that  could  determine  their  fate ;  at  any  rate,  we  could  not 
give  them  up  without  another  trial. 

"  The  morrow  came,  and  our  swelled  feet  and  aching 
muscles  moved  us  slowly  into  the  boat.  We  had  walked 
some  twenty  miles  on  the  previous  day,  through  the 
dense  jungle  and  miry  sw^amps,  and  over  broken  rocks 
and  abrupt  elevations,  and  were  hardly  fit  for  another 
tramp.  AYe  had  wrung  blood  from  our  stockings  when 
we  had  bathed  our  feet  at  dinner-time,  and  yet  sunrise 
found  us  again  entering  the  jungle. 

"  The  boat  which  landed  us  we  sent  some  miles  up  the 
beach,  with  orders  to  anchor  at  a  certain  point  and  keep 
up  a  regular  discharge  of  musketry  until  sundown. 
Three  men  were  detailed  for  this  service,  and  they  were 
ordered  to  fire  every  half-hour. 

"  The  rest  of  us — ten  in  number — were  fully  armed,  and 
carried,  in  addition  to  our  own  provisions,  a  two-pound 
tin  of  meat-biscuit,  in  case  we  should  find  the  men  in  an 
exhausted  state.  We  now  gave  up  the  single-file  idea, 
and  tried  to  spread  over  a  wide  area  by  walking  abreast 
of  each  other,  keeping  from  ten  to  twenty  paces  between 
each  man  and  the  next  on  either  hand;  but  the  utter 
impossibility  of  progressing  in  that  style  soon  demon- 


I    CONCLUDE    NOT    TO    DKINK.  99 

strated  itself  and  forced  us  back  to  following  in  each 
others'  tracks.  Stevens,  myself,  and  three  men,  were 
now  all  that  were  left  of  the  previous  day's  party ;  two 
of  them,  having  been  unable  to  move,  were  left  on  board, 
and  the  fresh  hands  who  had  joined  us,  M'ith  Baber  at 
their  head,  kept  up  such  a  brisk  pace  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  we  could  keep  company.  In  the  course  of  a 
few  hours,  however,  they  quieted  down  considerably  and 
gave  us  the  lead  again. 

"  Suddenly,  we  were  brought  to  a  halt  in  a  most  gloomy 
and  unpromising  locality ;  a  rough,  black,  perpendicular 
wall  of  granite  rose  directly  in  front  of  us,  whose 
height  was  probably  fifty  feet,  whose  broken  front  was 
hung  with  an  ivy-like  growth,  whose  right  and  left  ex- 
tremes disappeared  in  a  jungle  more  gloomy  and  closely 
packed  than  ever,  and  whose  partiall3'-visible  base  was 
washed  by  a  sluggish  and  half-stagnant  pool.  'No  ray  of 
sunlight  reached  us  there ;  the  most  that  the  vertical  sun 
could  do  was  to  diffuse  a  subdued  light  like  that  of  a 
stormy  evening.  Every  thing  else  was  bushes  and  water 
and  rock. 

"We  had  walked  long  without  water,  and,  as  we  stopped 
on  the  edge  of  this  pool,  which  w^as  filled  with  old  leaves 
and  limbs  of  fallen  trees,  I  stooped  down  to  try  its  taste 
and  temperature.  I  soon  arose  without  drinking ;  for  a 
small,  three-inch  snake,  doubtless  alarmed  at  the  disturb- 
ance, swam  away  directly  from  under  my  mouth.  I  was 
only  too  thankful  that  he  had  not  swum  into  it.  I  now 
turned  around  to  look  for  a  leaf  large  enough  to  make 
a  cup  of,  and,  seeing  one  of  the  men  passing  some  I 
thought  would  suit,  asked  him  to  pick  me  one.     I  then 


100  THE    AGONY    OF   TERROK. 

turned  to  find  a  clear  place  to  dip  from,— a  place  in 
which  three-inch  snakes  would  be  apparent  if  there.  In 
the  mean  time,  the  rest  of  the  party  had  been  arrested  by 
the  wall  fiirther  to  the  left,  and  were  singing  out  to  know 
if  it  could  be  passed  on  our  side.  Suddenly,  I  was  stag- 
gering sideways  toward  my  rifle  with  a  confused  idea 
that  I  should  have  it  in  my  hands,  and  my  face  turned 
toward  my  companion. 

"A  scream — such  a  scream  as  never  before  reached 
me,  such  a  one  as  I  hope  never  to  hear  again — was  ring- 
ing in  my  frightened  ear  its  painful  notes  of  agonized 
terror.  It  drove  the  tumultuous  blood  to  my  startled 
lieart  and  sent  a  shivering  feeling  of  despair  through  my 
unnerved  limbs.  It  reached  our  distant  friends  and  was 
echoed  back  by  their  alarmed  rallj^-cry — 'A  tiger!  a 
tiger!' — and  the  sound  of  rushing  feet  that  bore  their 
owners  to  the  doubtful  rescue.  It  was  one  of  those  cries 
of  dire  extremity,  of  helpless  agony,  that  drag  man  to  his 
fellow-man  in  spite  of  difficulty  and  danger  and  death. 
I  turned  upon  the  scene  with  levelled  gun. 

"  It  was  an  awful  one :  the  agony  of  terror  is  always 
awful. 

"With  bent  frame  and  livid  and  distorted  features,  a 
strong  man  was  gripping  between  his  knees  a  bleeding 
hand.  Terror  had  almost  deprived  him  of  speech  and 
seemed  to  have  shaken  his  ordinarily  stolid  brain.  He 
could  only  rock  himself  back  and  forth  and  mutter,  in  a 
hoarse  whisper,  'A  snake  bit  me!  a  snake  bit  me!  a 
snake  bit  me !' 

"It  was  a  fearful  sight.  I  looked  around  me  for  its 
author,  and  in  my  then  excited  state  of  mind  quailed 


AN    UGLY    CUSTOMER.  101 

before  the  angry  flash  of  its  leaden  eyes.  The  snake 
was  coiled  around  the  half-stripped  twig  from  which  I 
had  requested  the  man  to  pull  a  leaf,  and,  as  the  branch 
sprung  back  and  forth  after  the  violent  jerking  away  of 
the  hand,  he  moved  his  flattened  head  and  outstretched 
neck  in  keeping  with  the  motion :  his  whole  appearance 
was  indicative  of  anger  and  readiness  for  further  combat. 
I  looked  upon  its  flat  head,  its  leaden  body,  its  hostile 
eye,  and  its  projecting  fangs,  and  then  turned  to  the 
bleeding  hand.  I  felt  that  it  was  one  of  the  deadly  sort, 
and  that  a  few  hours  more  would  probably  add  another 
to  the  missing  men. 

"  By  this  time  I  had  recovered  my  presence  of  mind, 
and  knew  that  the  best  thing  I  could  do  would  be  to 
restore  his  courage  a  little,  and  try  to  get  him  to  suck 
the  wound.  This  I  proceeded  to  accomplish  by  the  use 
of  sundry  abusive  epithets,  sprinkled  here  and  there  by  a 
sneer  at  his  cowardice,  which  soon  gave  him  something 
to  think  about.  I  then  made  him  drink  a  pint  of  raw 
gin,  and  ended  by  forcing  his  hand  to  his  mouth  and 
telling  him  to  suck  it.  He  shrank  from  it  at  first,  but 
finally  commenced,  after  which  he  sucked  so  hard  as  to 
bring  half  the  blood  of  his  body  into  his  face. 

"  I  then  strove  to  make  light  of  the  whole  affair,  tell- 
ing him  that  people  were  bitten  by  snakes  every  day, 
and  that  they  never  made  children  of  themselves ;  at 
which  he  got  quite  angry,  though  the  force  of  habit  kept 
him  from  replying  as  warmly  as  he  would  have  been 
justified  in  doing. 

'"Just  see,  now,  how  I  will  shoot  that  fellow's  head 
off'!'  I  suddenly  exclaimed;  and,  to  give  his  mind  occu- 


102  I   STAND   VERY   STILL. 

pation,  I  commenced  blazing  away  with  my  revolver, 
wliile  tlie  snake  swung  back  and  forth  and  watched  me 
with  a  constant  glare.  My  nerves  had  been  so  unstrung 
that  I  missed  hira  every  time. 

"  "While  I  was  still  firing,  the  captain  and  the  rest  of 
the  party  came  tearing  through  the  jungle,  some  without 
their  hats  and  covered  with  spider-webs,  some  with  rent 
clothes  and  cocked  guns. 

"  'Look  out!'  I  cried;  'mind  that  snake ;  he's  bit  Wil- 
liams, and  looks  ready  for  any  one  else.' 

"'Blow  him  away  with  your  rifle,'  said  Baber;  'he's 
swinging  about  too  much  for  the  pistol.'  The  rest  of 
the  party  gathered  around  the  wounded  man. 

"  I  advanced,  and,  putting  the  muzzle  within  a  foot  of 
his  head,  pulled  the  trigger.  The  smoke  hung  about  the 
thick  brushwood  for  a  while  and  finally  passed  ofl'.  There 
was  no  snake  to  be  seen. 

" '  Hunt  for  him,  boys,'  said  the  captain  ;  '  I  want  a 
piece  of  him  to  put  on  Williams's  hand.' 

"We  began  peering  cautiously  into  the  bushes,  moving 
them  aside  with  our  guns  and  gradually  passing  in 
among  them.  We  no  longer  feared  an  enemy  whom 
we  believed  blown  in  half  at  least,  but  thought  his  mate 
might  be  on  some  other  bush.  Suddenly  one  of  the  men 
discovered  him.  '  Stand  still,  Mr.  Habersham  !'  he  ex- 
claimed; 'he's  got  his  eyes  on  you.' 

"  I  immediately  acted  upon  the  caution ;  I  don't 
think  I  ever  stood  so  still  before.  The  speaker  lifted  his 
cutlass  and  brought  him  to  the  ground  with  a  broken 
back.  I  had  simply  jarred  him  to  another  branch  with 
my  rifle,  and  the  cutlass  that  had  at  last  brought  .him 


GLOOMY   FACES.  103 

down  had  passed  within  two  feet  of  my  head.  He  now 
bit  furiously  right  and  left,  tried  the  cutlass,  which  proved 
rather  hard,  and  finally  sank  his  fangs  into  his  own 
broken  back ;  and  all  the  while  it  seemed  that  his  angry, 
glittering  gaze  was  fastened  on  me.  I  could  not  but 
wonder  if  he  recognised  in  me  the  enemy  who  had  blown 
him  from  his  first  position. 

"  The  captain  took  a  inece  of  his  flesh,  bruised  it  between 
two  knives,  and  bound  it  and  a  piece  of  tobacco  over  the 
wound.  Then  he  told  the  man,  'There !  it's  all  right  now. 
That'll  draw  the  poison  out,  I  know;'  and  this  gravely- 
asserted  result,  combined  with  the  pint  of  gin,  so  restored 
the  poor  fellow's  nerves  that  he  took  up  his  carbine  and 
expressed  himself  ready  to  continue  the  march. 

"I  never  saw  a  more  gloomily-desponding  set  of  faces 
than  those  which  now  looked  toward  the  captain.  "We 
were  almost  certain  that  our  two  men  had  been  devoured 
by  wild  beasts,  and  now  here  was  a  third  bitten  by  a 
snake  which  every  one  inwardly  acknowledged  to  be 
poisonous:  who  could  tell  when  this  man  would  drop 
in  convulsions,  or  who  was  to  be  the  next  victim  ? 
Death  seemed  to  lurk  on  every  hand, — in  the  lair-like 
caves  of  the  hill-side,  in  the  water  we  stooped  to  drink, 
in  the  rotten  logs  under  our  feet,  even  in  the  foliage  that 
constantly  brushed  our  faces  :  it  was  horrible. 

"'Come!  come!'  said  Stevens;  'we  must  be  getting 
along  ;  this  is  our  last  chance  :  we  shall  be  broken  down 
to-morrow.'  So  we  passed  on  around  the  right  of  this 
massive  wall,  crossed  a  small  ridge,  and  commenced  the 
passage  of  an  extensive  swamp. 

"  Hours  more  passed,  and  we  came  out  suddenly  upon 


104  MEETING    WITH    NATIVES. 

the  beach.  We  threw  down  our  guns  under  a  large  oak- 
tree  and  stretched  ourselves  upon  the  yielding,  moss-like 
grass.  We  were  pretty  well  used  up,  some  of  the  party 
entirely  so :  Williams,  too,  complained  more  and  more  of 
his  hand,  which  was  now  quite  swollen.  We  ate  our  cold 
dinner,  laid  back  drowsily  for  a  half-hour,  and  then  pre- 
pared to  cross  the  jungle  to  the  opposite  beach,  where 
we  hoped  to  find  the  boat  in  sight.  One  of  the  men,  who 
had  taken  oft"  his  boots  when  we  first  stopped,  now  went 
to  the  beach  to  wash  his  bleeding  feet  before  putting 
them  on  again.     Suddenly  we  heard  his  voice  : — 

"  '  Here's  some  Malay  boats  down  the  beach,  sir !' 

"  This  was  a  very  acceptable  piece  of  information.  We 
had  been  longing  to  fall  in  with  some  of  the  natives  to 
offer  them  a  heavy  reward  for  the  discovery  of  the  men, 
if  alive,  and  a  moderate  one  for  their  bones  if  dead :  we 
thought  they  would  be  more  likely  to  succeed  in  their 
native  wilds  than  we. 

"  Every  man  sprang  to  his  feet  with  renewed  strength 
and  started  up  the  beach, — some,  however,  very  slowly. 
Among  these  latter  were  poor  Baber  and  our  interpreter, 
the  former  of  whom  had  been  suflfering  from  the  jungle- 
fever  for  the  last  month,  and  the  latter  of  whom,  having 
just  left  a  counting-room,  was  poorly  prepared  to  stand 
fatigue.  In  my  anxiety  to  inquire  about  the  men,  I  walked 
rapidly  ahead,  while  the  captain  brought  up  the  others  at 
a  more  moderate  gait. 

"A  half-hour's  walk  under  the  broiling  sun  (thermo- 
meter at  101°  on  board  the  schooner)  brought  me  to  the 
nearest  phrau,  when,  as  I  could  not  speak  the  language,  I 
commenced   making  friendly  gestures.     The   men  who 


ARRIVAL    OF   THE    "HEADMAN."  105 

were  poling  her  along  then  shoved  in  to  the  beach,  when 
one  of  them  strapped  on  his  parang  and  came  forward 
to  meet  me.  He  approached  without  distrust,  evidently 
regarding  his  parang  as  equal  to  my  Sharpe's  rifle,  and, 
after  making  their  usual  salam,  put  his  hand  on  his  pa- 
rang and  gazed  inquiringly  at  me. 

"  I  replied  to  his  look  by  holding  up  two  fingers,  then 
pointing  to  myself,  and  finally  to  the  jungle.  I  wanted 
him  to  infer  that  two  of  my  countrymen  were  lost  in  the 
latter,  and  he  seemed  to  comprehend  at  once.  He  held 
up  one  finger,  touched  his  face,  and  then  the  brown 
stock  of  the  rifle ;  after  which  he  held  up  a  second  finger, 
touched  my  shirt-wristband,  and  pointed  up  the  beach. 
From  this  I  understood  that  he  had  seen  two  men,  one 
white  and  the  other  brown,  and  that  they  were  farther  up 
the  beach.  Now,  as  one  of  the  missing  men  was  white, 
and  the  other  a  mulatto,  the  men  he  had  seen  must  be 
those  we  were  in  search  of;  I  threw  up  my  cap  and  gave 
a  whoop  that  reached  the  stragglers  along  the  beach  and 
was  echoed  back  by  their  joyful  reply. 

"When  they  came  up,  Stevens  took  his  seat  under  a 
large  tree  near  the  jungle,  and  awaited  the  approach  of 
'  the  headman'  of  the  party,  who  had  for  some  time  been 
running  toward  us  from  the  more  distant  phrau.  The 
interpreter  stationed  himself  at  his  side,  and  our  i^arty 
in  general  cast  themselves  upon  the  grass  for  another 
rest. 

"When  the  headman  arrived,  he  bent  on  one  knee 
before  the  captain,  made  the  same  salam,  and  shook  his 
outstretched  hand  with  marked  respect.  Then  he  turned 
to  the  interpreter  and  spoke  with  great  volubility  for  as 


106  •       NEWS    OF   THE   LOST    ONES. 

much  as  a  minute.  This  latter  soou  lilled  himself  with 
the  news,  and  then  commenced  the  process  of  disgorging. 

"Two  of  the  headman's  people,  he  said,  had  met  the 
men  some  miles  farther  up  the  beach:  they  were  lost, 
and  knew  not  which  way  to  turn.  Their  feet  were  much 
swollen  and  bleeding,  their  clothes  in  tatters,  and  they 
themselves  much  exhausted  for  want  of  food.  They  had 
taken  them  to  their  village,  given  them  food,  washed 
tlieir  feet,  given  them  a  house  to  live  in,  and  were  now 
on  their  way  to  find  the  vessel  to  which  they  belonged. 
All  that  they  had  been  able  to  understand  from  them 
were  the  words  'American  phrau'  and  'Brikat;'  and 
from  those  they  had  concluded  that  an  American  vessel 
was  somewhere  near  Tanjong  Brikat.  They  did  not 
know  but  that  she  might  be  wrecked  and  in  want  of 
assistance :  they  had  come  to  see. 

"  Stevens  now  inquired  if  there  was  water  off"  their  vil- 
lage deep  enough  to  admit  of  the  schooner  visiting  it,  and, 
upon  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  made  the  head- 
man an  offer  if  he  would  pilot  us  around.  This  was 
accepted,  with  the  proviso  that  two  of  his  relatives  should 
be  allowed  to  accompany  him,  when  we  at  once  set  out 
upon  our  return.  One  of  the  natives  being  sent  through 
the  jungle  to  order  the  boat  to  return  to  the  point,  the  rest 
of  us  continued  on  down  the  beach,  preferring  its  regu- 
lar though  heavy  walking,  and  the  hot  sun,  to  the  boggy 
swamps  and  confined  heat  of  the  jungle.  There  was  a 
fine  breeze  blowing  outside,  but  none  of  it  could  enter 
those  solid  masses  of  interwoven  brushwood. 

"  On  this  return-walk  we  suftered  greatly  from  heat  and 
thirst ;  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that  Baber  and  several  of  the 


BLAST   THEIR    EYES !  107 

men  gave  out,  and,  throwing  themselves  down  on  a  shady 
spot,  declared  that  they  could  go  no  farther.  Several  of 
us  therefore  pushed  on  to  the  nearest  water ;  and,  after 
satisfying  our  own  thirst,  returned  with  two  bottles  of  it 
to  their  relief,  after  which  they  exerted  themselves,  and 
with  occasional  assistance  reached  the  boat. 

"  The  total  revulsion  of  feeling  which  had  followed  the 
announcement  of  the  two  men's  safety  was  amusing  in 
the  extreme. 

"'Blast  their  eyes!'  said  the  man  who  had  torn  his 
clothes  in  rushing  to  the  snake-scene,  (all  along  it  had 
been  nothing  but  'poor  fellows!'  'poor  fellows!')  'I  wish 
I  had  the  nigger  by  the  throat ;  I'd  show  him  what  it  is  to 
make  white  people  hunt  him  through  the  woods  for  three 
days.' 

"  'I  wnsh  he  had  th^  rest  of  that  snake  shoved  down  his 
throat!'  continued  he  who  had  been  bitten,  and  whose 
wound  had  been  pronounced  poisonous,  but  not  fatal,  by 
the  natives. 

"  'I  hope  the  captain  pays  fifty  dollars  each  for  the  kind 
treatment  they've  had  from  the  natives,  and  charges  it  to 
their  accounts,'  put  in  the  man  who  had  started  back  so 
violently  from  the  edge  of  the  jungle  on  the  first  night  of 
our  hunt. 

"'Silence!'  exclaimed  the  captain;  'you  ought  to  be 
thankful  that  half  of  us  a'n't  dead.'  " 

I  will  now  pass  over  several  pages  of  my  journal  until 
I  come  to  our  arrival  on  board  with  the  headman  and 
his  two  relatives : — 

"  It  was  quite  late  when  we  reached  the  schooner,  and 
we  experienced  considerable  difliculty  in  persuading  the 


108  FEAR   AND    ADMIRATION. 

headman  to  descend  into  the  cahin.  After  much  press- 
ing, however,  he  commenced  by  bearing  his  weight 
warily  upon  the  first  round  of  the  ladder,  then  stooping 
down  to  get  a  good  look  at  the  place  he  was  descending 
to,  and  finally  reaching  the  bottom;  for  five  minutes 
after  which  he  trod  as  if  he  were  walking  on  eggs, 
trembling  violently  and  glancing  around  in  evident 
alarm.  Presently  his  alarm  subsided  into  admiration,  and 
he  began  to  examine  the  satinwood  bulkheads,  the  book- 
cases, the  bunks,  &c.;  and  finally,  when  the  interpreter  and 
his  two  relations  were  brought  down,  he  became  quite 
self-possessed  and  talkative.  He  could  not  tire  of  exa- 
mining every  thing.  The  most  ordinary  article  seemed  to 
excite  his  curiosity;  but  that  which  carried  his  delight 
beyond  all  bounds  was  the  action  of  a  revolver  which 
Baber  fired  six  times  in  as  many  seconds  and  then 
handed  him  to  examine. 

"'Ask  him  how  he  likes  the  cabin,'  said  Stevens. 

"He  replied  that  it  was  grander  than  any  thing  he  had 
ever  yet  seen.  He  did  not  know  if  he  was  in  a  house  or 
on  board  of  a  phrau :  he  should  like  to  bring  his  father 
on  board  very  much." 

I  pass  over  other  pages,  and  my  next  extract  relates  to 
our  visit  to  their  village,  off  which  we  anchored  that 
night : — 

"It  struck  8  P.M.  as  we  left  the  schooner, — the  captain, 
the  interpreter,  four  men,  the  natives,  and  myself.  Upon 
arriving  at  the  beach  we  found  the  mouth  of  an  extensive 
lacroon  instead  of  the  bamboo  houses  which  we  had  been 
led  to  expect,  and,  passing  through  this  and  crossing  the 
lagoon  itself,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  narrow  and 


EXCITEMENT  BY  MOONLIGHT,  109 

gloomy-looking  creek.  Here  again  we  were  disappointed : 
there  were  still  no  houses ;  and,  as  the  boat  shot  into  the 
dark  and  gloomy  opening,  the  captain  whispered  me 
to  shoot  the  native  nearest  me  upon  the  first  sign  of 
treachery.  We  began  to  think  that  we  might  be  paying 
a  moonlight  visit  to  a  nest  of  Malay  pirates. 

""We  found  the  creek  so  full  of  logs  and  banks,  so 
dark  and  so  narrow,  that  we  could  no  longer  use  our 
oars :  we  therefore  had  to  '  point'  them  and  pole  the  boat 
against  the  current.  I  have  remarked  that  it  was  moon- 
light; but  then  the  bushes  were  so  thick,  both  over  and 
around  us,  that  this  luminary  might  as  well  have  been 
behind  a  constant  cloud:  we  could  scarcely  see  the  oars 
with  which  we  were  poling.  Sometimes  the  hanging 
bushes  would  brush  us  in  the  face,  or  catch  the  upper 
ends  of  the  oars  as  they  were  lifted  up ;  and  upon  these 
occasions  I  could  not  but  wonder  if  more  than  one  snake 
might  not  coil  himself  around  hanging  bushes,  and  if 
they  might  not  snap  at  us  as  we  brushed  by,  or  drop 
down  upon  us  as  the  oars  struck  the  branches  overhead. 
It  was  a  most  exciting  moonlight  visit. 

"After  poling  a  mile  or  more  through  this  darkness,  we 
came  out  upon  a  little  basin,  on  the  right  side  of  which 
was  a  bamboo  wharf.  We  landed  at  this  wharf,  and,  leav- 
ing two  men  by  the  boat  with  orders  to  warn  off  every  one 
unless  they  heard  English  spoken,  took  the  other  two  and 
the  interpreter,  and  followed  the  headman  up  a  broad  and 
winding  road,  which  he  said  led  to  the  long-looked-for 
village.  We  were  now  well  in  for  it :  if  there  v/as  a  trap 
we  had  only  to  make  a  running  fight.  This  was  what  we 
thought  as  we  got  farther  and  farther  from  the  boat ;  but 


110  A   FORMIDABLE   WALKING-CANE. 

we  soon  found  that  our  suspicions  were  totally  unfounded : 
they  were  a  village  of  the  most  harmless  and  friendly 
people  that  I  ever  saw,  in  spite  of  their  heing  Malays. 

"After  five  minutes'  walk  we  sighted  the  first  house  a 
few  yards  on  our  left,  and  just  as  this  occurred  a  large 
dog  made  a  rush  at  the  interpreter  and  was  driven  off 
by  our  guides. 

"  '  Take  care,  captain  !"  exclaimed  the  alarmed  linguist. 
'  You'd  better  get  sticks,  gentlemen :  these  Chinamen's 
dogs  are  very  fierce.'  And,  suiting  the  action  to  the 
word,  he  provided  himself  with  a  small  log  —  a  half- 
grown  tree — and  closed  up  to  us,  probably  to  afford  us 
protection.  (?) 

"  We  found  the  village  to  contain  a  population  of  some 
eighty  or  a  hundred  souls,  half  of  whom  were  Malays 
and  the  other  half  Chinese.  They  came  out  in  crowds 
to  meet  us, — men,  women,  (very  pretty  women,  some  of 
them,)  and  children.  We  shook  hands  with  spasmodic 
friendship,  without  regard  to  age  or  sex : — we  were 
still  in  an  unpleasant  state  of  doubt  as  to  their  true 
character.  We  found  two  styles  of  houses  looming  up 
through  the  moonlight,  one  being  built  on  the  ground, 
as  is  ordinarily  the  case,  and  the  other  elevated  on 
posts  to  the  height  of  several  feet.  It  was  into  one  of 
the  former  of  these  that  we  were  now  ushered  with  re- 
spectful eagerness,  and  we  soon  forgot  every  feeling  of 
distrust. 

"Our  headman  now  left  us  in  charge  of  his  Chinese 
friend  and  went  out  in  search  of  his  father,  with  whom 
he  shortly  returned  and  informed  us  that  the  wanderers 
would   soon   make   their  appearance.     The   old   Malay 


CHINAMEN   AMONG    THE    MALAYS.  Ill 

saluted  us  reverently,  and  then  retreated  to  the  side  of 
his  son,  of  whom  he  seemed  very  proud. 

"And  now,  while  some  bad  tea  is  being  drunk  without 
either  sugar  or  cream,  as  we  await  the  men's  appearance, 
let  me  condense  some  of  the  interpreter's  remarks  in 
regard  to  the  mixed  people  among  whom  we  found 
ourselves  so  suddenly  thrown." 

I  will  preface  this  condensed  matter  by  a  single 
observation : — As  the  Irish  and  German  emigrants  turn 
to  this  land  of  America  by  hundreds  and  thousands,  so 
turn  the  Chinese  to  the  fertile  shores  of  the  Malay 
Islands.  There  is  one  difference,  however:  they  leave 
their  wives  behind  them  and  carry  their  customs  with 
them.  The  Malays  provide  them  the  former,  but  retain 
their  own  prejudices.  The  two  are  often,  as  in  the 
present  case,  found  living  together,  sometimes  for  pro- 
tection, sometimes  for  trade :  the  latter  was  the  case  in 
this  their  town  of  Rangou. 

The  headman  of  these  Chinese  spoke  as  follows, 
through  the  interpreter: — "Our  village  is  small.  It 
has  only  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  souls.  We  are 
equally  divided,  and  each  people  has  its  own  leader.  I 
am  the  chief  among  the  Chinese:  the  headman  is  the 
chief  among  the  Malays.  "We  are  equal,  and  are  elected 
every  year  by  the  people.  The  old  men  give  us  advice 
when  necessary.  Your  men  were  brought  here  in  great 
distress,  and  we  treated  them  like  brothers  until  they 
troubled  our  women,  when  we  told  them  they  should 
remain  in  their  house  or  we  would  tie  them.  We  tried 
to  do  our  best.     Have  we  done  right?" 

The  captain  replied  warmly  in  the  affirmative,  adding 


112  now   TIIEY   GOT   LOST. 

he  was  only  sorry  they  had  not  fulfilled  their  threat  of 
tying  them  when  they  behaved  badly ;  and,  as  the  men 
entered  at  the  moment  and  heard  themselves  thus  con- 
demned, they  advanced  with  a  most  sheepish  expression 
of  countenance  and  waited  to  be  questioned. 

"Well,  what  have  you  got  to  say  for  yourselves?" 
asked  Stevens,  severely. 

"  Got  lost,  sir.  "We  tried  to  cross  through  the  woods 
to  t'other  beach,  and  was  in  them  all  night,"  &c.  &c.  &c. 
The  reader  must  imagine  the  rest. 

Kow  came  some  more  hot  and  tasteless  tea;  then  a 
general  shaking  of  hands ;  then  the  furious  barking  of 
dogs;  then  a  dark  and  dismal  poling-match  down  the 
winding  creek;  and  finally — the  schooner.  The  next 
day  we  were  again  under  way,  heading  for  Gaspar 
Island,  where  we  filled  our  water-tanks  with  rain-water 
from  the  cavities  of  rocks,  and  finally  crowded  sail 
for  our  port  of  rendezvous, —  Hong-Kong,  China, —  dis- 
tant some  eighteen  hundred  miles. 

The  time  passed  heavily  enough  now  that  we  had 
nothing  to  do ;  but  two  weeks  cannot  last  forever,  and 
we  finally  found  ourselves  in  smooth  water.  "We  en- 
tered at  night,  and  our  pilot,  being  a  great  jackass, 
allowed  us  to  drift  afoul  of  an  English  vessel's  hawse, 
which  gave  us  work  until  the  change  of  tide :  then  we 
got  clear  of  her  and  anchored,  kicked  the  ofiending 
Celestial  into  his  boat,  and  turned  in  for  the  night. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

WE   AEBIVE  AT   HONG-KONG,  AND    FIND    MORE    EEPAIRS   WANTED COMMANDER 

RINGGOLD    RETURNS    TO   THE    UNITED    STATES  IN  BAD    HEALTH,  AND  LIEUTE- 
NANT-COMMANDING JOHN  RODGERS  TAKES  THE  COMMAND  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

SOMETHING  ABOUT  HUMAN  LIFE  AND  DUCKS  IN  CHINA,  AND  HOW  WE  WERE 

IIBERALLY    ENTERTAINED    BY   THE    FOREIGN    MERCHANTS    OF    CANTON. 

Our  nocturnal  arrival  once  more  effected  a  reunion  of 
the  squadron.  "We  found  familiar  hulls  all  around  us 
when  we  went  on  deck  the  next  morning,  and  that  "  first 
day  in  port"  was  devoted  to  climbing  their  sea-rusted 
sides  and  talking  over  the  events  of  the  last  few  months. 
On  board  of  the  Vincennes  we  were  shown  a  huge  snake, 
a  boa-constrictor,  that  Lad  been  brought  from  Batavia  by 
the  Kennedy,  and  which  was  now  confined  in  a  strong 
bamboo  cage  on  the  quarter-deck.  As  we  advanced 
toward  him  they  were  about  giving  him  his  breakfast, 
which  consisted  of  quite  a  tough-looking  old  rooster,  who 
struggled  violently  as  they  forced  him  in  between  two  of 
the  slats.  Upon  being  let  go  he  immediately  occupied 
the  opposite  corner  of  the  cage,  and  lifted  his  neck- 
feathers  as  roosters  do  when  acknowledo-ino;  their  defeat. 
There  he  stood, — feathers,  spurs,  and  all ;  and  I  watched 
curiously  for  the  result.  The  snake  began  by  fixing  a  set- 
tled glare  upon  his  victim,  working  his  coiled  length  slowly 
back  and  forth,  and  apparently  preparing  for  a  spring. 

Suddenly,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  he  threw  two  of 

those  working  folds  over  the  frightened  bird  and  drew 

8  113 


114  GREEK  MEETS  GREEK. 

him  into  his  coil ;  as  near  as  I  could  see  he  had  sprung 
from  his  head  and  tail.  The  rooster  gave  one  frightened 
cry,  and  then  the  folds  hegan  to  close  around  him, — closer, 
— closer.  Finally  he  was  mashed  into  an  oblong  mass, 
covered  with  a  glutinous  saliva,  and  swallowed,  "tail  and 
all."  I  Avondered  if  they  ever  grew  large  enough  to  pre- 
pare men  in  that  way,  and  if  there  was  any  prospect  of 
our  visiting  the  jungles  which  they  inhabited. 

This  was  all  very  fine  for  the  snake  as  long  as  he  had  a 
trembling  chicken  to  deal  with ;  but  upon  a  subsequent 
occasion,  when  a  fine  young  roasting-pig  was  introduced 
to  him,  the  tables  seemed  turned.  I  did  not  see  the  latter 
myself,  but  was  told  that  the  pig  ensconced  himself  in 
the  chicken's  corner,  and  exhibited  such  a  warlike  front 
that  the  boa  was  completely  nonplussed.  They  seemed 
mutually  afraid  of  each  other,  and  remained  upon  a 
watchful  guard  until  the  former  was  released  from  his 
uncomfortable  quarters  :  a  whole  night,  I  think,  they  were 
together. 

Finding  it  inconvenient,  as  well  as  expensive,  to  retain 
the  snake  alive,  he  was  finally  taken  on  shore  to  the  gar- 
dens of  the  naval-storekeeper,  where  a  noose  was  passed 
over  his  head,  then  over  the  limb  of  a  tree,  and  finally 
"hauled  taut"  by  Stimpson,  the  energetic  naturalist  of  the 
Expedition.  In  this  way  he  was  soon  put  an  end  to,  after 
which  he  was  deprived  of  his  skin  for  future  stuffing. 

My  service  in  the  schooner  had  now  exi^ired,  and,  when 
I  returned  to  my  long-closed  room  on  board  of  the  Ken- 
nedy, every  thing  looked  strange  and  unnatural :  I  had 
been  away  nearly  five  months,  and  bilge-water  and  the 
moth  had  not  been  idle.      The  former  of  these  had  at 


ANOTHER   BREAKDOWN.        "  115 

length  become  so  unbearable  that  permission  had  been 
asked  and  received  to  break  out  the  cargo  of  stores  and 
try  to  remedy  the  evil.  The  attempt  was  made,  and 
resulted  in  the  discovery  that  the  ship  was  rotten, — 
totally  unseaworthy.  She  was  subsequently  condemned 
and  turned  over  to  the  East  India  squadron  as  an  armed 
vessel,  to  be  moored  off  the  city  of  Canton  for  the  pro- 
tection of  American  citizens  during  the  frequent  out- 
breaks of  rebel  violence. 

The  Porpoise  also  had  been  discovered  to  be  in  a  very 
rotten  condition,  and  was  undergoing  extensive  repairs 
when  we  arrived.  Her  captain  had  been  deprived  of  his 
command, — very  unjustly,  it  was  thought, — and  had  left 
for  the  United  States;  Lieutenant  Henry  Rolando,  of  the 
Vincennes,  succeeded  him. 

In  the  mean  time  Commodore  Perry  arrived  from  his 
famous  voyage  to  Japan,  and  felt  himself  called  upon  to 
take  some  action  in  the  affairs  of  the  "North  Pacific 
Expedition."  Our  squadron  was  totally  separate  and 
distinct  from  his  ;  but  then  he  was  the  senior  ofiicer  pre- 
sent, and,  from  all  that  he  heard  in  regard  to  the  health 
of  Commander  Ringgold,  he  felt  himself  called  upon  to 
interfere.  A  board  of  surgeons  having  reported  it  as 
"  very  delicate  and  in  need  of  quiet  and  retirement," — or 
words  to  that  eftect, — he  ordered  him  home,  and  the  com- 
mand naturally  devolved  upon  Commander  John  Eodgers, 
the  officer  next  in  rank.  And  now  commenced  a  total 
reorganization  of  our  expedition.  Captain  Collins,  Lieu- 
tenant Carter,  and  Dr.  Hamilton,  of  the  Kennedy,  Cap- 
tain Rolando,  of  the  Porpoise,  and  several  officers  from 
the  other  vessels,  left  us  and  joined  one  or  more  of  the 


116        REORGANIZATION  OF  THE  SQUADRON. 

vessels  of  Perry's  squadron.  The  Ivcimedy  was  sent  up 
to  Canton,  and  lier  officers  divided  among  the  other 
vessels  to  fill  vacancies.  An  indescribable  state  of  un- 
certaint}^  and  confusion  existed  for  weeks :  no  one  knew 
which  vessel  to  prefer,  or  where  to  stop  when  he  had  his 
orders.  Every  day  some  officer  was  getting  tired  of  his 
ship  and  applying  to  be  ordered  to  another;  or  sickness 
or  a  detachment  from  the  squadron  would  force  Com- 
mander Rodgers  to  order  some  one  temporarily  to  fill  the 
vacancy.  We  knew  not  where  to  keep  our  clothes,  where 
to  pay  our  mess-bill,  hardly  where  to  cat :  it  was  nothing 
but  change — change — change ;  and,  what  made  it  worse, 
it  was  nearly  all  necessary  change.  Finally,  things  seemed 
to  be  settled,  and  I  awoke  one  morning  to  find  Stevens 
in  command  of  the  Hancock,  and  myself  as  her  first 
lieutenant.  And  now,  as  the  remainder  of  this  book 
will  be  chiefly  made  up  from  what  I  saw  and  did  while 
attached  to  that  vessel,  I  will  give  a  list  of  her  officers, 
&c.,  and  then  a  brief  idea  of  the  old  tub  herself: — 

Lieutenant  Commanding,  H.  K.  Stevens,         Captain. 

Acting  Master,  A.  \V.  Habersham,  Lieutenant. 

"  W.  Van  Wyck,  " 

"  H.  St.  Geo.  Hunter,      " 

"  E.  0.  Cares,  Sailing-Master. 

Purser,  Geo.  H.  Hitchie. 

Assistant  Surgeon,  Gerard  Alexander. 

Draughtsman,  A.  E.  Hartman. 

First  Assistant  Engineer,  E.  Lawton. 

Second     "  "  D.  B.  McComb. 

Third       "  "  L.  Williams. 

Assistant  Naturalist,  L.  M.  Squires. 


THE   OLD    JOIIX.  117 

The  above  were  tlie  officers  of  the  ship,  and,  in  addi- 
tion, she  had  some  sixty  souls, — petty  officers,  firemen, 
seamen,  ordinary  seamen,  landsmen,  and  boys.  And  now 
for  the  vessel  herself.  Her  description  should  go  on 
paper ;  her  dimensions  should  never  be  lost. 

"The  Old  John,"  as  we  soon  came  to  call  her,  was  once 
an  honest  old  water-tank  and  anchor-hoy,  and  for  years 
acquitted  herself  with  deserved  kiai  in  that  humble  voca- 
tion. She  belonged  to  the  Boston  ISTavy-yard,  and  was 
really  a  very  useful  vessel.  She  had  a  steam-engine  in 
her  and  a  propeller  under  her  stern,  and  used  to  scull 
about  the  harbour  of  Boston,  to  the  infinite  terror  of  all 
catfish.  In  short,  like  many  other  things  in  their  loroper 
sphere,  she  was  a  marvel  of  good  behaviour  and  success. 
After  a  while,  people  began  to  talk  of  sending  her  to 
sea,  and  she  did  actually  get  as  far  as  the  West  Indies, 
when  her  officers,  like  sensible  men,  turned  around  and 
came  back.     They  had  had  enough  of  her. 

Then  it  was  said  that  she  wanted  length,  more  sail, 
&c.  &c. ;  and,  while  she  was  thus  the  subject  of  doubt 
and  uncertainty,  she  was  selected  as  one  of  the  contem- 
plated expedition.  This  was  no  sooner  determined  upon 
than  she  was  subjected  to  what  the  Government  called 
"great  improvements,"  after  which  she  was  rated  as  a 
"screw-steamer  of  the  third  class,"  and  proclaimed  a  sea- 
worthy vessel.  These  great  improvements  consisted  in 
her  having  been  lengthened  to  a  fearful  extent,  while 
her  breadth  of  beam  and  power  of  engine  remained  the 
same,  and  of  her  having  a  third  mast  put  in  where  no 
mast  was  wanted.     Those  were  all,  and  she  was  then 


118  PLAYFULNESS  OF  THE  OLD  JOHN. 

ordered  to  join  the  hazardous  undertaking  of  a  surveying 
and  exploring  voyage  around  the  world. 

Even  now,  as  the  mind  runs  back  to  scenes  which 
were  then  in  the  future,  seated  as  I  am  behind  my  pen  in 
a  strong  brick  house,  and  with  miles  of  dry  land  between 
me  and  the  waste  of  waters,  I  tremble  at  the  dangers 
which  seemed  to  seek  us  from  every  quarter,  but  which 
in  reality  were  mostly  called  into  existence  by  her  own 
want  of  the  usual  qualities  which  constitute  a  seaworthy 
vessel. 

She  was  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  long,  some- 
thing less  than  twenty-two  feet  beam,  and  drew  thirteen 
feet  when  full  of  coal.  Heard  ever  any  one  of  such  out- 
landish proportions  ?  She  was  bark-rigged,  and  so  crank 
that  forty-five  tons  of  pig-ballast  had  to  be  stowed  in  her 
to  keep  her  from  "turning  turtle;"  and,  even  with  that 
great  weight  to  steady  her,  she  would  list  a  half  streak 
either  way  when  a  boat  was  hoisted,  and  careen  as  if 
under  a  heavy  press  of  sail  when  lying  at  anchor  across 
the  wind  and  tide.  She  would  dive  into  seas  when  in  a 
gale  as  if  without  the  most  remote  idea  of  ever  coming 
up  again,  wallowing  in  the  trough,  and  dipping  in  whole 
cataracts  at  every  roll.  She  had  an  unpleasant  way  of 
carrying  her  helm  hard  iqi  when  lying  to  in  a  gale,  and 
in  light  weather  she  often  amused  herself  by  luffing  into 
the  wind  with  the  helm  hard  up,  every  thing  aft  shaking 
and  every  thing  forward  full.  In  short,  she  was  a  dis- 
grace to  the  country,  the  laughing-stock  of  foreign  offi- 
cers, and  a  constant  source  of  anxiety  to  those  who  sailed 
her.  As  long  as  onr  coal  lasted  we  could  manage  her 
veiy  well ;  but  as  soon  as  that  gave  out  we  could  only 


2         V 


.«J! 


WHEN   SHALL   WE    THREE    MEET   AGAIN?  119 

wait  for  a  fair  wind.  More  than  once  slie  put  me  in  mind 
of  one  of  those  Chinese  junks  which  make  but  two  trips 
the  year,  sailing  before  the  monsoon  to  their  port,  and 
then  waiting  for  the  opposite  monsoon  to  bring  them 
back.     Without  steam  she  was  like  a  log. 

Here  I  am,  then,  on  board  of  the  "  Old  John"  at  last; 
and,  by  turning  back  to  the  "list  of  officers,"  the  reader 
will  see  that  old  "bust-proof"  and  his  master  are  keep- 
ing me  company.  "We  three  kept  together  during  the 
whole  of  that  eventful  cruise,  although  the  former  did 
attempt  my  life  on  more  than  one  occasion,  and  the 
latter  never  could  be  persuaded  that  the  fault  was  any- 
where but  in  my  own  carelessness.  And  now,  while  we 
are  "preparing  for  sea,"  let  me  touch  lightly  upon  the 
four  Eastern  ports  of  Victoria,  Macao,  VVhampoa,  and 
Canton. 

These  places  all  lie  within  a  circle  of  one  hundred 
miles,  Macao,  the  most  central,  being  in  lat.  22°  14'  K. 
and  long.  113°  82'  E.,  according  to  Raper.  The  first  is  a 
colony  of  the  English,  more  generally  known  under  the 
name  of  Hong-Kong,  and  situated  on  an  island  of  that 
name ;  the  second,  an  old  colony  of  the  Dutch,  and 
situated  on  a  promontory  about  half-way  between  Vic- 
toria and  Canton ;  and  the  fourth,  a  large  city  which 
every  one  knows  to  be  on  the  Canton  River.  Add  to 
this  the  fact  of  its  having  an  execution-yard,  a  small 
hotel,  and  a  few  foreign  merchants  with  their  club-room, 
and  the  reader  knows  nearly  as  much  about  it  as  I  do : 
the  rest  he  will  see  shortly.  The  third,  Whampoa,  I 
mention  last  because  least,  and  will  here  make  an  end  of 
it  by  simply  remarking  that   it  is  a   Chinese  bamboo 


120  THE   GREAT    SLAUGHTER-HOUSE. 

town,  situated  a  few  miles  nearer  the  sea  than  Canton, 
and  possessing  the  only  dry-dock  in  that  part  of  China. 
Heavy  ships  cannot  go  above  Whampoa  on  account  of  a 
barrier  across  the  river:  hence  its  importance. 

The  view  about  Whampoa  is  beautiful  from  an  upper 
point  of  the  river.  The  opposite  sketch,  from  the  pencil 
of  Mr.  Edward  Kern,  gives  a  most  truthful  idea  of  it. 

Hong-Kong  is  more  of  a  European  settlement  than 
any  thing  else,  and  the  same  is  pretty  much  the  case 
with  Macao.  The  former  of  these  is  remarkable  as  the 
residence  of  money-makers  of  all  nations,  and  a  few 
ramrod-like  English  soldiers,  who — to  use  the  words  of 
an  old  messmate — walk  up  and  down  the  Queen's  Road, 
encased — dingy-boy  like — in  dangerously-tight  trousers, 
and  amuse  themselves  by  switching  the  dust  from  them 
with  very  delicate  canes.  Macao  is  remarkable  for  its 
pure  air,  cool  temperature,  fine  summer  retreats,  and  as 
the  residence  of  Portugal's  great  epic  poet, — the  second 
Milton, — Camoens  the  beautiful.  We  visited  his  cave, 
the  birthplace  of  his  most  glorious  lines,  and  went  away 
with  sad  thoughts  of  his  brief  though  brilliant  advent. 

So  much  for  the  first  three.  And  now  for  Canton,  the 
city  of  a  million  or  more,  and  the  grand  centre  of 
butchery,  the  great  slaughter-house  through  which  passes 
much  of  the  surplus  population  of  China,  entering  as 
men  and  cast  out  as  headless  trunks, — the  victims  of 
civil  war.  I  again  turn  to  my  journal,  the  Hancock 
having  been  ordered  up  the  river  for  a  few  days : — 

"  We  left  our  ship,  which  was  anchored  above  the 
^Factories,'  and  pulled  toward  the  'gardens'  through 
such  numbers  of  boats  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to 


CAMOENS'S     CAVE-'.MACAO. 


THE  VALUE  OF  LIFE  IN  CHINA.  121 

make  any  headway.  We  were  half  an  hour  in  accom- 
plishing a  distance  which,  had  it  not  been  for  those 
closely-packed  sampans,  could  have  been  passed  over  in 
five  minutes.  While  thus  elbowing  our  way  through 
them  we  passed  a  junk,  upon  the  bow  of  which  several 
Chinamen  were  standing  with  long  bamboo  poles  in  their 
hands:  they  seemed  to  be  bearing  something  clear  of 
their  cables, — something  which  the  tide  had  swept  afoul 
of  them.  This  something  proved  to  be  the  dead  bodies 
of  three  Chinamen,  bodies  without  heads, — bodies  of 
men  who  had  been  decapitated  by  either  the  mandarins 
or  rebels,  tied  together  by  the  feet,  and  then  cast  into 
the  river  to  save  the  trouble  of  burial.  They  were  shoved 
clear  of  the  cable,  and  then  went  drifting  on,  borne  upon 
the  changing  flow  of  the  muddy  stream,  to  be  returned 
again  by  the  rising  flood,  like  any  useless  barrel  or  water- 
logged piece  of  driftwood.  Such  is  life  in  China.  I  once 
heard  from  good  authority  that  it  was  no  uncommon  thing 
for  a  person  to  take  the  place  of  the  condemned  unfortu- 
nate, provided  said  condemned  would  pay  a  stipulated 
amount  to  the  friends  of  the  self-ofiered  victim: 

"Leaving  this  revolting  scene  behind  us,  we  pulled 
into  a  basin  on  the  river's  bank,  the  mouth  of  which  was 
guarded  by  a  floating  log,  and  the  quiet  bosom  of  which 
was  covered  by  scores  of  the  light  egg-like  boats  known 
as  sampans  or  Tanka-boats.  These  admirable  little  pas- 
sage-boats are  sculled  by  a  single  girl  generally,  though 
they  are  often  the  homes  of  a  whole  family.  One  would 
be  surprised  to  see  the  great  number  of  Chinese  who  live, 
in  boats.  This  basin  was  ^^robably  a  hundred  feet  in  dia- 
meter, and  after  crossing  it  we  reached  a  flight  of  heavy 


122  now    AVE   WERE    ENTEKTAINED. 

stone  steps  which  led  up  into  the  'gardens.'  These  pro- 
bably covered  as  much  as  two  acres  of  ground,  consisted 
of  a  single  enclosure,  in  spite  of  the  plurality  of  the  name, 
and  were  quite  refreshingly  sprinkled  by  shade-trees  and 
patches  of  grass.  The  walks  were  wide  and  shady,  and 
paved  with  large  squares  of  granite,  and  it  was  backed 
by  a  row  of  massive  buildings  after  the  ordinary  ware- 
house style.  These  were  the  'Factories,'  or  'Hongs,' — the 
great  doorways  of  the  world's  trade  with  China,  and  the 
'business-places'  of  the  foreign  merchants.  We  never 
entered  them. 

"There  was  also  a  fine  club-house  in  the  left  corner  of 
the  gardens,  but  we  were  equally  unfortunate  in  entering 
that.  It  did  not  j^y  to  be  polite  to  ofScers  unless  the  city 
was  about  to  be  sacked,  in  which  case  fighting-men  were 
in  great  demand  for  the  protection  of  the  property  of 
*  citizens  of  the  United  States,'  and  consequently  entitled 
to  proportionate  consideration.  In  spite  of  all  this,  the 
'Canton  merchants'  have  a  great  reputation  for  their 
'princely  hospitality.'  Let  us  turn  to  more  worthy  sub- 
jects. 

"The  most  attractive  (?)  object  in  Canton  is  the  exe- 
cution-ground or  slaughter-yard.  There  you  may  go 
weekly,  almost  daily,  and  see  heads  fall  by  the  score, 
sometimes  by  the  hundred.  You  come  to  a  rude  enclo- 
sure at  the  gate  of  which  a  crowd  of  Imperial  lancers 
stand  in  knots,  inside  of  which  kneel  the  miserable  vic- 
tims, and  in  the  corners  of  which  are  piled  the  heads 
of  former  sufiercrs  in  various  stages  of  decomposition. 
Shreds  of  tangled  hair,  too, — human  hair, — is  kicked 
about  under  foot,  and  the  snarling  dogs  linger  around 


■  ■■'  ^ ;  ■■\\'^''>>N>~s\^-"-"  www 


TANKA      BOAT      AND      GIRL. 


THE    SWORD    OF   CIVIL   WAR.  123 

and  tear  the  ilesli  from  pallid  faces  or  lap  tlieir  meals  from 
the  crimson  streams  of  human  blood.  The  sanguinary  and 
callous  executioner  strides  over  and  among  the  bleeding 
trunks,  kicks  a  head  out  of  his  way  here,  steps  into  a 
pool  of  blood  there,  and  sweeps  his  dripping  sword  over 
the  head  of  the  next  in  turn.  Men  and  women, — some- 
times children, — age  and  ugliness,  youth  and  beauty,  suf- 
fer without  distinction.  A  head  is  a  head,  and  so  many 
heads  have  been  ordered  to  fall.  The  manner  in  which 
they  obtain  the  requisite  number  is  hardly  to  be  credited ; 
and  yet  it  is  true ; — so  true  that  I  tell  it  without  fear  of 
contradiction. 

"  These  executions  are  generally  the  result  of  a  desire 
to  retaliate  upon  the  rebels  for  some  similar  act.  When, 
therefore,  it  becomes  known  to  the  mandarins  that  the 
rebels  have  cut  off  so  many  Imperial  heads,  they  at  once 
march  out  an  equal  number  of  prisoners  and  restore  the 
equilibrium.  If  they  have  not  enough  prisoners,  they 
send  a  company  of  troops  and  seize  and  bind  the  first 
poor  dozen  or  twenty  countrymen  whom  fate  throws  in 
their  way,  bring  them  into  the  city,  and  the  next  day  they 
are  kneeling  in  the  slaughter-yard  with  bowed  heads  and 
fettered  limbs.  It  makes  little  difference  which  side  they 
are  on :  they  may  protest  themselves  to  be  the  best  ser- 
vants of  the  emperor,  and  the  only  answer  is, — 

'""Why  were  you  outside  of  the  wall  while  the  rebels 
have  possession  of  the  surrounding  country  ?' 

"The  stained  sword  drips  again,  and  a  Government  no- 
tice is  pasted  up  to  the  effect  that  'such  and  such  a  great 
victory  has  been  obtained  over  the  rebels,  and  that  so 
many  prisoners   have   had  their  heads   cut  off.'     This 


124  tha-ping-wanq's  religion. 

notice  soon  reaches  the  rebels,  and  results  in  similar 
scenes  at  their  hands.  It  is  hard  to  say  which  is  the 
worst,  the  mandarin  or  rebel  party." 

Much  sympathy  was  excited  in  Europe  and  America 
some  three  years  since  (in  1853,  I  think)  in  favour  of 
these  rebels  of  whom  I  have  been  writing.  It  was  as- 
serted that  Tha-ping-wang,  their  leader,  was  a  Christian, 
a  convert  of  the  missionaries,  and  that  his  followers  were 
all  converted  Chinamen,  and  that  their  object  was  to 
spread  the  light  of  the  gospel  over  that  heathen  land. 
l^ow  see  the  true  state  of  the  case. 

Tha-ping-wang,  when  a  boy,  attended  the  schools  of  the 
mission  at  Shanghae,  learned  to  speak,  read,  and  write 
English  tolerably  well,  and  got  a  very  fair  idea  of  the  life 
and  religion  of  our  Saviour.  As  is  often  the  case,  this 
knowledge  did  him  more  harm  than  good :  he  cursed  and 
swore,  felt  himself  above  other  Chinamen  of  his  class, 
and  finally  left  the  school-room  for  a  life  of  starvation, 
work,  or  rascality.  The  first  of  these  not  agreeing  with 
him,  he  was  forced  to  the  second.  He  engaged  as  a 
horse-boy  in  the  employ  of  some  European  at  Shanghae, 
but,  finding  work  too  troublesome,  set  his  brains  to  work 
in  the  line  of  rascality.  The  next  thing  that  we  hear  of 
him  he  is  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  rebels,  calling 
himself  the  elder  brother  of  our  Saviour,  and,  as  such, 
claiming  the  respect  and  veneration  due  to  a  God.  He 
says  that  Christ  and  Mahomet  were  both  divine  spirits, 
and  that  their  religions  did  well  enough  until  he  came : 
now,  however,  he  is  commissioned  to  modify  their  teach- 
ings, and  none  but  his  is  the  true  doctrine.  What  his 
modifications  consist  of  I  do  not  know;  I  only  know  the 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

how  we  talked  of  "visiting  pekin  by  watee,"  and  how  the  "old 
John"  and  cooper  were  pressed  into  the  corps  diplomatique — 
how  an  old  tub  amused  herself  by  rolling  her  masts  out, 
and  how  a  new-york  pilot-boat  weathered  a  gale — how  wb 
visited  the  great  city  of  fou-chow-foo,  and  how  we  saw 
cormorants   catching  fish. 

There  was  a  great  talk  in  Hong-Kong  about  tliis  time 
as  to  the  possibility  of  a  commissioner  going  to  Pekin  in 
person  and  obtaining  an  interview  witb  the  brother  of 
the  sun  and  moon, — the  celestial  Heinfung, — the  Emperor 
of  all  the  Chinas.  The  object  of  this  desired  interview 
was  to  put  into  the  Imperial  ear  certain  proposals,  &c. 
which  could  never  reach  it  in  writing,  or  which,  reaching, 
would  never  be  acted  upon,  from  the  fact  that  the  man- 
darins or  rebels  would  stop  the  despatches,  or  that  the 
former  would  influence  the  Celestial  mind  against  the 
proposals  of  the  encroaching  "Fanqui,"  or  barbarians,  as 
all  foreigners  are  contemptuously  called  in  China. 

Many  were  the  schemes  projected  and  abandoned  to 
attain  this  important  interview,  until  it  was  finally  deter- 
mined to  try  and  reach  Pekin  by  water.  Pekin  was  situated 
near  the  Pi-ho  River,  and  the  Pi-ho  River  emptied  into 
the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  and  the  Gulf  of  Pichili  in  turn 
emptied  into  the  Yellow  Sea :  why  might  not  vessels-of- 
war  go  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pi-ho,  and  from  there  de- 
spatch boats,  or  even  smaller  vessels,  upon  a  visit  to  the 

127 


128  A   COMBINED   EFFORT. 

great  capital  ?  aud  why  might  not  tlie  commissioner  go 
in  those  boats  ? 

K"©  one  could  object  to  this  arrangement,  because  no 
one  had  ever  been  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pi-ho;  and  so 
Mr.  Eobert  McLean,  of  the  United  States,  and  Sir  John 
Bowering,  of  England,  gave  it  out  as  their  intention  to 
attempt  to  "  reach  Pekin  by  water." 

The  next  thing  to  be  done  now  was  to  find  the  vessels; 
and  Commodore  Perry,  Commander  Rodgers,  aud  Ad- 
miral Sterling  were  each  called  upon  to  assist  the  cause. 
The  former  placed  the  steam-frigate  Powhatan  at  the 
disposal  of  Mr.  McLean,  the  second  gave  the  "old  John" 
and  the  little  Cooper,  while  the  latter  furnished  Sir 
John  Powering  with  the  screw-steamer  Rattler  and  a 
hired  lorcha, — a  vessel  about  the  size  of  the  Cooper,  but 
drawing  much  less  water.  It  was  hoped  that  the  two 
latter  mio-ht  be  able  to  ascend  the  river  with  boats  in 
tow,  and  thus  give  an  air  of  greater /orce  than  could  have 
been  attained  with  boats  only.  These  arrangements 
having  been  made,  we  were  ordered  to  prepare  for 
sea  with  all  despatch.  "We  were  to  go  to  Shanghae,  via 
the  river  Min,  and  await  the  arrival  of  Mr.  McLean  in 
the  Powhatan,  and  to  take  advantage  of  all  oppor- 
tunities for  making  surveys.  "We  were  detailed  on 
"special  service,"  but  that  did  not  prevent  our  going 
on  with  our  regular  work.  The  Yincennes  herself 
and  the  Porpoise  w^ere  to  survey  around  the  Bonin, 
Loo-Choo,  and  Japanese  islands,  and  we  were  all  to 
rendezvous  at  Ilong-Kong  in  the  spring.  It  was  now 
September,  1854,  and  we  were  ready  for  sea, — the  "old 
John"  and   the  Cooper  to  sail  first.     Suddenly,  Lieu- 


THE    BLACK    PAGE.  129 

tenants  J.  H.  Russell,  of  the  Porpoise,  and  "VYilliam  Van 
Wyck,  of  the  Hancock,  imagined  that  their  mutual 
interests  would  be  consulted  by  changing  ships,  and 
accomplished  their  wish  during  the  hurry  of  our  de- 
parture ;  and  this  pregnant  exchange  was  no  sooner 
accomplished  than  we  took  the  Cooper  in  tow,  and  stood 
out  to  sea  on  our  stormy  road  to  Shanghae. 

We  left  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  at  anchor.  We 
have  never  seen  the  latter  since;  and,  as  her  image  floats 
by  me,  enveloped  in  the  dismal  and  shadowy  shroud  of 
its  unknown  fate,  it  drags  with  it  the  names  and  features 
of  lost  friends  and  messmates,  endeared  to  my  heart  by 
scenes  of  common  peril  and  long  years  of  brotherly 
association.  I  close  my  eyes,  and  recall  those  well- 
remembered  features ;  and,  as  they  crowd  before  me,  they 
are  changed :  oh,  how  changed !  The  startled  imagination 
paints  them  paled  and  distorted  by  the  hideous  emotions 
of  the  last  struggle, — a  struggle  in  which  man,  having 
exhausted  the  vast  resources  of  his  godlike  brain  in  vain 
efibrts  to  surmount  a  danger  which  is  literally  insur- 
mountable, folds  his  arms  of  useless  muscle  upon  his 
troubled  heart  and  calmly  bides  his  time  to  die.  I  close 
my  eyes,  and  see  those  fearful  shadows  crowd  around 
me,  and  the  burning  tear  of  powerless  pity  leaks  through 
the  unsteady  lids  and  blots  the  swimming  paper.  It 
is  a  brotherly  tear,  shed  over  the  unknown  fate  of 
generous  hearts,  who  sank  in  the  fathomless  depths  of 
the  coral  sea,  or  lingered  upon  the  barren  rocks  of  some 
desert  island  until  life  faded  slowly  from  their  weakened 
grasp. 

Our  passage  to  Shanghae  proved  even  more  stormy 


130  TEN    MISERABLE   DAYS. 

than  we  had  expected :  it  was  the  equinox,  and  we  had  a 
right  to  look  for  heavy  weather,  but  we  never  imagined 
that  we  should  suffer  as  we  did.  We  were  soon  forced 
to  cast  the  Cooper  adrift,  and  the  second  night  out  we 
ourselves  dipped  into  a  heavy  sea  and  twisted  off  the 
head  of  the  bowsprit,  rolling  out  the  topgallant-masts  at 
the  same  time.  We  had  a  head-gale  to  beat  up  against, 
and  of  course  made  little  or  no  headway ;  and,  in  addi- 
tion to  this,  Stevens  would  insist  upon  our  dancing 
attendance  upon  the  Cooper,  lest  something  might  befall 
her.  This  unnecessary  guardianship  I  never  could  un- 
derstand, as  the  latter  vessel  was  making  a  much  better 
weather  of  it  than  we  were,  and  a  quick  passage  would 
have  been  consulted  by  letting  each  of  us  "make  the 
best  of  our  way." 

After  losing  our  masts  we  rolled  fearfully,  and  for  ten 
days  our  rooms  were  afloat.  We  were  shipping  seas  con- 
stantly^, and  having  the  most  unpleasant  time  I  ever  expe- 
rienced; while  the  Cooper  under  her  close-reefed  foresail 
was  riding  upon  the  very  crests  of  the  towering  seas,  and 
keeping  as  dry  as  a  bone.  More  than  one  eye  glanced 
toward  her  as  the  safer  as  well  as  the  dryer  of  the  two. 

Finally,  we  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  the  river  Min, 
upon  the  banks  of  which,  and  thirty-four  miles  above  the 
sea,  is  situated  the  great  and  slightly-known  city  of  Fou- 
chow-foo,  or  rather  Fou-chow  City,  the  word  "  foo"  meaning 
city.  The  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  26°  08'  K, 
its  longitude  149°  42'  E.,  and  it  is  situated  about  half- 
way between  the  port  we  had  left  and  the  one  to  which 
we  were  bound.  Fou-chow  is  rapidly  becoming  the  great 
door  of  export  of  the  vast  empire  of  which  it  is  one  of 


THE   PAGODA  OF   LOAH-SING-TAH.  131 

the  largest  cities,  and  as  sucli  is  entitled  to  unusual  con- 
sideration :  in  addition,  it  has  never  before  been  written 
of,  to  my  knowledge,  hence  another  claim  to  being  made 
the  subject  of  the  next  few  pages.  I  turn  to  my  journal 
for  extracts : — 

"It  is  fortunate  that  we  touch  at  Fou-chow,  for  the 
equinoctial  gales  have  bruised  and  battered  us  consider- 
ably ;  they  still  blow  very  heavy,  and  our  coal  is  already 
running  short,  we  having  had  to  keep  up  constant  steam 
or  drift  helplessly  to  leeward.  We  will  now  be  able  to 
repair  damages  and  fill  our  bunkers  with  wood,  possibly 
with  coal. 

""WTiile  standing  in  for  the  supposed  mouth  of  the 
river  with  the  Cooper  in  tow,  we  ran  aground  on  a  sand- 
bank, and  while  hauling  off  into  deep  water  were  boarded 
by  a  number  of  piratical  fishermen,  one  of  whom  con- 
sented to  pilot  us  in.  He  anchored  us  about  a  mile  below 
the  pagoda  of  Loah-sing-tah  shortly  after  dark. 

"  This  pagoda,  which  is  situated  on  a  pleasantly-wooded 
'  elevation  near  a  turn  in  the  river,  is  twenty-five  miles 
above  the  sea,  and  within  nine  of  the  city  itself.  It  is 
one  of  the  lingering  monuments  of  unknown  ages,  and 
is  at  length  beginning  to  crumble  beneath  the  constant 
action  of  time  and  the  elements.  Here  it  is  that  mer- 
chant-vessels anchor,  receiving  their  teas  by  huge  cargo- 
boats  which  come  to  them  on  the  ebb-tide  and  return 
with  the  flood.  "We  found  the  American  bark  Hun- 
garian at  anchor,  the  captain  of  which  boarded  us  and 
hailed  our  arrival  with  great  joy.  We  also  found  a  large, 
heavily-laden  English  ship,  the  captain  of  which  offered  us 
a  thousand  dollars  if  we  would  tow  him  around  a  certain 


132  OPIUM    RECEIVING-SHIPS. 

point  upon  which  he  feared  being  cast  bj  the  current :  we 
refused  the  offer  with  a  show  of  unwilKng  dignity,  but 
subsequently  did  him  tlie  service  for  nothing.'  He  was 
loud  in  his  thanks,  and  promised  we  should  hear  from  his 
owners  when  he  arrived  at  Liverpool ;  but  he  must  either 
liave  died  on  the  passage  or  wilfully  neglected  us,  for  we 
arc  still  waiting :  the  name  of  the  ship  was  the  '  Lord 
"Warrington.'  " 

Li  consequence  of  ad\^ce  received  from  the  captain  of 
the  Hungarian  in  regard  to  the  tides,  we  determined  to 
visit  Fou-chow  with  the  next  flood.  This  required  us  to 
get  up  before  daylight,  and  I  make  a  few  extracts  from 
the  account  of  our  trip  : — 

"We  found  two  of  the  light  and  buoyant  sampans  of 
a  neighbouring  village  awaiting  us  at  the  gangway,  in 
one  of  which  rowed  the  pilot,  who  accompanied  us  as 
guide  through  the  crooked  streets  to  the  American  con- 
sulate. These  two  boats  seemed  to  have  been  made 
expressly  for  our  party  of  six, — who  now  buttoned  out 
the  cool  morning  air  and  got  into  them, — so  closely  did 
we  fit  together  along  the  single  thwart-ship  seat.  Three 
of  us  there  were  in  each  boat;  and  we  had  a  bamboo 
frame  overhead,  upon  which  was  spread  a  protecting 
mat,  and  two  large  men  and  four  very  small  boys  to 
urge  us  along, — one  large  man  and  two  small  boys  in 
each  boat. 

"  It  wanted  yet  an  hour  of  daylight  as  the  driving 
flood-tide  swept  us  by  the  towering  pagoda,  and  the  next 
thing  that  attracted  us  was  the  reveille  of  an  English 
opium-receiving  ship, — one  of  the  floating  but  perma- 
nently-anchored  strongholds  whose   only  duty  it  is   to 


'*    \^' 


MAGNIFICENT   SCENERY.  133 

shelter  and  dispose  of  the  poison  as  it  is  delivered  from 
the  '  armed  vessels  of  reckless  men'  previously  spoken  of. 

"  At  half-past  five  it  was  broad  daylight,  and  Ave  could 
look  around  us :  the  entire  sky  was  of  one  uniform  rosy 
tint.  Even  the  zenith  was  of  this  colour,  and  the  con- 
trast between  the  brilliant  heavens  and  the  deep  blue  of 
the  distant  mountains  was  magnificent:  I  never  before 
saw  the  outlines  of  the  mountains  so  clearly  defined, — 
never  their  blue  so  deep,  never  the  sky  so  brilliant.  They 
lifted  themselves  in  their  stately  grandeur  far  into  the 
morning  sky,  towering  over  the  hills  at  their  base  with 
protecting  care,  while  these  in  turn  hung  over  an  undu- 
lating country  that  waved  itself  almost  imperceptibly 
into  the  low  rice-fields  along  the  river-banks. 

"Nor  was  it  in  one  direction  alone  that  this  view  met 
the  eye  ;  the  panorama  was  perfect.  We  had  ascended 
the  windings  of  the  river  sufiiciently  high  to  place  even 
high  mountains  between  us  and  the  sea,  and  now  the 
smooth  surface  of  the  river,  unbroken  by  either  isle  or 
rock,  and  slightly  rippled  by  the  morning  air,  presented 
the  appearance  of  a  small  lake  rather  than  of  a  running 
stream.  We  had  a  jutting  point  below  us,  another 
about  a  mile  ahead,  and  the  river  itself  seemed  to  widen 
between  them ;  hence  its  similarity  to  a  lake. 

"As  we  passed  over  this  quiet  basin  of  water  and 
turned  the  upper  point  into  another  lake,  the  bosom  of 
the  water  was  no  longer  unbroken. 

"Uncouth-looking  boats,  with  noisy  boatmen  and 
flapping  sails,  were  sprinkled  plentifully  over  its  saffron- 
coloured  breast,  while  schools  of  fish  leaped  bodily  into 
the  air  and  made  the  water  foam  again  in  their  descent. 


134  THE    BRIDGE   OF    BRIDGES. 

"  The  sides  of  the  moimtains  and  hills  along  this  river 
were  literally  covered  with  the  sweet-potato  vine  ;  and, 
from  their  peculiar  manner  of  cultivating  it,  there  could 
be  no  loss  of  soil  from  the  zigzag  course  of  the  impover- 
ishing gully. 

"  Take  a  flight  of  steps  six  hundred  feet  high,  each 
step  being  twenty  yards  broad  and  six  feet  higher  than 
the  lower  one,  and  ranging  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  yards 
in  length. 

"  Now,  manure  well  the  surfaces  of  these  giant  steps, 
and  you  get  a  series  of  fertile  patches.  Then,  imagine 
the  whole  slope  of  a  mountain  dug  into,  smoothed  off, 
'  got  up'  in  that  style,  and  you  have  an  idea  of  how  so 
many  people  manage  to  live  in  China.  Did  they  only 
cultivate  what  we  call  arable  land,  half  of  them  would 
starve.  It  was  a  rare  sight  to  turn  in  whatever  direction 
and  see  thousands  of  hill-side  acres  thus  converted  into 
level  tracts  and  rising  and  retreating  before  the  eye  like 
the  successive  seats  of  a  vast  amphitheatre." 

After  skipping  several  pages  of  my  journal,  I  find  the 
following : — 

"  Shortly  after  passing  the  ruined  temple  just  de- 
scribed, we  came  to  a  turn  in  the  river  whence  we  first 
sighted  the  famous  granite  bridge  of  Fou-chow.  And 
such  a  bridge  as  it  was ! — one  oblong  mass  of  apparently- 
solid  granite,  with  square  holes  cut  at  regular  intervals 
to  permit  the  flow  of  the  four-knot  tide,  and  with  booths 
and  shops  of  every  description  built  upon  it  from  one 
end  to  the  other, — built  upon  the  up-river  half  of  the 
bridge's  surface,  while  the  lower  half  is  given  to  the 
thousands  who  daily  cross  it.     Such  bridges  are  not  built 


FISHING-CORMORANTS.  135 

in  China  now;  they  were  built  by  the  men  who  raised 
those  strange  columns  known  as  'pagodas.'  The  river 
at  this  bridge  is  two  thousand  feet  wide,  and  there  is  an 
island  near  its  south  bank  over  which  the  bridge  passes. 
It  is  only  on  this  island,  and  within  certain  limits  on  the 
left  bank,  that  the  houses  of  the  foreign  merchants  are 
allowed  to  be  built." 

We  were  passing  under  this  bridge,  and  saw  a  novel 
sight. 

"As  we  passed  under  the  massive  blocks  of  gray  gra- 
nite upon  the  foaming  breast  of  the  rising  tide  and  shot 
out  into  the  expanding  river  beyond,  we  saw  a  long  low 
raft  of  bamboo  moored  under  the  lee  of  the  heavy  pier 
to  our  right,  on  which  were  a  Chinese  fisherman,  a 
basket,  a  paddle,  and  five  duck-like  birds,  which  we  at 
once  imagined  to  be  some  of  the  celebrated  'fishing- 
cormorants'  of  the  East.  We  also  imagined  that  this 
might  be  our  only  opportunity  for  witnessing  their  sin- 
gular mode  of  fishing,  and  consequently  stopped  in  the 
hope  that  the  Chinaman  would  gratify  our  curiosity. 
We  were  not  disappointed. 

"Scarcely  had  we  'rounded  to,'  when  he  reached  out 
his  hand  toward  the  birds,  the  nearest  of  whom  at  once 
waddled  up  to  him  and  stepped  into  his  open  palm.  He 
now  smoothed  his  feathers  with  the  right  hand,  bent  his 
mouth  to  his  arched  neck  for  a  moment,  and  then  put 
him  upon  the  edge  of  the  raft.  There  the  bird  dipped 
his  bill  in  the  water  once  or  twice,  snapped  his  head  from 
side  to  side,  shook  his  tail  several  flirts,  and  ended  by 
diving  suddenly  into  the  turbid  water  that  washed  his 
feet. 


136  A   PROUD   BIRD. 

"In  the  mean  time,  the  four  remaining  cormorants  were 
huddled  together  on  tlic  far  end  of  the  raft,  drying  their 
feathers,  switching  their  tails,  and  looking  altogether  quite 
cool  and  comfortable.  After  being  dow^n  from  ten  to 
fifteen  seconds,  the  absent  explorer  hopped  suddenly  out 
of  the  water  with  quite  a  good-sized  fish  in  his  mouth, 
swam  to  his  master,  gave  up  the  half-swallowed  prize, 
and  hopped  upon  his  knee,  where  he  shook  himself 
while  the  fish  was  being  put  in  the  basket.  His  master 
then  stroked  him  down  as  before, — much  to  his  apparent 
delight, — whispered  again  in  his  ear,  and  placed  him 
once  more  upon  the  edge  of  the  raft. 

"Again  he  dived,  and  again  he  came  up  with  a  fish. 
He  then  underwent  a  similar  process  of  caressing,  and 
was  once  more  placed  on  the  water's  edge,  l^ow,  how- 
ever, fortune  seemed  to  have  left  him.  He  had  no  fish 
when  he  arose  after  a  protracted  absence,  and  seemed  at 
a  loss  what  to  do.  He  turned  himself  around  in  the 
water  several  times,  keeping  his  dark  eyes  fixed  on  his 
master's  as  if  asking  permission  to  try  it  again.  Sud- 
denly the  latter  made  a  motion  with  his  hand,  and  down 
he  went.  When  he  came  up  he  brought  quite  a  large 
fish, — eight  inches  long,  say, — which  struggled  violently, 
as  though  surprised  at  the  unusual  situation  in  which  he 
found  himself.  He  too  was  put  in  the  basket,  the 
proud  cormorant  once  more  caressed,  and  then  placed 
gently  in  the  centre  of  the  raft  instead  of  upon  its  edge 
as  formerl3\ 

"This  seemed  to  tell  him  that  his  services  were  no 
longer  required,  and  that  he  had  acquitted  himself  with 
considerable  credit ;  for  he  moved  off  to  the  other  end 


THE    UNLUCKY   FISHERMAN.  137 

of  the  raft  witli  the  stately  step  of  a  conqueror,  while  the 
next  in  turn  advanced  to  supply  his  place.  They  seemed 
to  regulate  their  movements  by  a  nod  or  motion  of  the 
hand  from  their  master.  Cormorant  l^o.  2  was  not  as 
sprightly  a  looking  bird  as  his  predecessor;  nevertheless, 
he  brought  up  a  fish  after  the  first  dive,  gave  a  flirt  with 
his  expanded  tail,  and  swam  to  his  master  to  give  up 
the  prize.  He  was  taken  out  as  before,  relieved  of  his 
mouthful,  and  subsequently  placed  gently  on  the  edge 
of  the  raft.  There  he  sat  a  few  moments  perfectly  mo- 
tionless, but,  seeming  suddenly  to  see  a  fish,  dropped  off 
like  a  piece  of  lead,  and  nothing  more  was  seen  of  him 
for  at  least  fifteen  seconds.  Then  he  came  to  the  surface 
with  a  spring  that  took  him  almost  out  of  the  water,  but 
having  no  fish.  His  actions  now  expressed  his  dis- 
appointment almost  as  plainly  as  words  could  have  done. 
He  did  not  swim  toward  his  master  as  formerl}-,  but  kept 
sculling  about  in  a  small  circle  with  his  bright,  unsteady 
glance  fixed  on  him,  at  the  imminent  risk  of  twisting 
off  his  neck. 

"  The  master  pointed  down  with  his  finger,  and  down 
went  the  unsuccessful  fisherman.  Still  no  fish.  Once 
more,  and  still  no  success.  Finally,  he  was  taken  back 
upon  the  raft,  slapped  soundly  on  the  head,  and  thrown 
angrily  down.  He  immediately  made  tracks  for  the 
other  end,  stumbling  heels  over  head  and  looking  very 
much  ashamed  of  himself.  The  next  in  turn  now  wad- 
dled forward ;  but,  having  seen  enough,  we  continued  on 
our  way.  I  could  not  but  wonder  at  their  beautiful 
training,  and,  as  I  saw  the  unlucky  explorer  receive  his 
slaps,  my  mind  returned  to  the   Canton  River  and  to 


138  THE   HOME   OF   FORGOTTEN   MILLIONS. 

what  the  pilot  had  told  me  iu  regard  to  the  '  last  duck.' 
It  began  to  look  like  the  truth." 

Two  minutes  after  leaving  the  bridge  we  landed  on 
the  south  bank,  and,  after  a  ten  minutes'  walk  through 
narrow,  dark,  and  filthy  streets,  found  ourselves  ascend- 
ing an  elevation  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  upon  which  was 
the  Consulate.  AVe  were  received  with  great  politeness, 
drank  a  cup  of  good  coffee,  and  were  invited  to  take  a 
walk  before  breakfast.     My  journal  says  : — 

"And  now  we  undertook  a  walk  while  breakfast  was 
preparing, — we  and  the  four  dogs,  slim  Mr.  Clark,  the 
consul,  and  extremely  stout  Mr.  Sloan,  his  jovial  partner. 
We  passed  through  the  back-entrance  and  found  our- 
selves upon  the  edge  of  an  immense  graveyard, — an  old 
graveyard  of  the  oldest  nation  under  the  sun  :  the  whole 
face  of  the  outspreading  country  was  mounds,  mounds, 
nothing  but  mounds.  Away  over,  on  a  shady  elevation, 
Mr.  Clark  pointed  out  the  burial-place  that  had  been 
allotted  to  foreigners,  and  here  and  there  you  could  see  a 
house,  or  a  solitary  tree,  or  a  huge  rock;  but  eveiy  thing 
else  was  graves, — nothing  but  graves  for  miles  and  miles. 
Footpaths  without  number  ran  over  and  through  these 
oblong  hillocks,  and  a  long  heavy  grass  grew  in  rare 
luxuriance  over  their  uneven  surface.  "VVe  walked  through 
those  hard-beaten  paths  and  saw  hundreds  of  bare-legged 
women  and  children  cutting  and  bundling  the  grass  that 
shaded  their  ancestors,  and  carrying  it  to  the  opposite 
city  of  eight  hundred  thousand  souls.  They  looked  at 
our  uniform  curiously  as  we  passed,  and  smiled  and 
laughed  with  great  good-nature.  During  this  walk  Mr. 
Sloan  gave  me  much  information  in  regard  to  the  people 


RASCALLY   WANTONNESS.  139 

among  whom  he  was  living.  He  said  that  it  was  only  six 
years  since  any  foreigner  had  been  allowed  to  live  there, 
and  that  even  now  they  ran  the  risk  of  insult  and  loss  of 
life  when  going  through  '  the  city.'  In  consequence  of 
this  they  generally  went  in  sedan-chairs;  but  even  these 
had  been  known  to  be  opened  and  the  occupant  spit  on 
in  mere  wantonness. 

« '  What  did  he  do  ?'  I  asked. 

"'Do?'  he  replied;  'he  looked  straight  ahead,  like  a 
sensible  man  as  he  was :  had  he  struck  his  insulter  he 
would  have  been  torn  to  pieces.'  " 

I  did  Mr.  Sloan  the  injustice  at  the  time  to  think  this 
might  be  exaggerated,  but  subsequently  had  good  cause 
to  believe  that  things  were  even  worse.  And  now,  since 
our  return  to  the  United  States,  I  have  seen  in  the  Phila- 
delphia Evening  Journal  of  September,  1856,  a  long 
account  of  the  death  of  a  Mr.  Cunningham,  under  the 
most  wanton  and  unprovoked  circumstances.  This  gen- 
tleman had  treated  us  with  marked  courtesy  during  our 
visit  to  Fou-chow,  and  was  a  quiet,  inoffensive  personage. 
He  was  murdered  by  an  infuriated  mob  of  the  residents 
of  the  small  island  which  I  have  spoken  of  as  being  near 
the  south  bank  of  that  river. 

I  learned  further,  frorn  Messrs.  Clark  and  Sloan,  that 
the  exports  from  Fou-chow  were  annually  doubling  them- 
selves ;  and  that,  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  nearest 
seaport  to  the  great  tea-district  of  China,  it  must  eventu- 
ally become  the  great  point  of  export. 

After  breakfast  we  took  sedan-chairs  and  were  carried 
over  the  bridge  and  into  the  densely-packed  city  beyond 
it.    I  never  before  saw  such  crowds  of  people  as  blocked 


140  VALUABLE    WINE-GLASSES. 

up  its  narrow  streets ;  and,  after  we  had  been  carried  some 
three  miles,  we  got  out  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  most 
quiet-looking  to  stretch  our  limbs.  We  were  soon  sur- 
rounded by  a  crowd  of  several  hundred;  but,  though 
they  folloAvcd  us,  laughed  at  us,  and  even  frowned  in 
some  cases,  we  got  back  again  without  being  "spit 
upon."  We  saw  some  singular  sights  in  the  shops  of 
that  no  longer  "  quiet  street."     My  journal  says : — 

"We  entered  the  open  door  of  this  old-curiosity  shop 
as  much  to  avoid  the  crowd  as  any  thing  else,  and  looked 
around  us  to  pass  the  time.  The  first  thing  I  saw  was  an 
oval  frame  of  glass,  under  which  were  two  very  ordinary- 
looking  wine-glasses  that  were  evidently  regarded  by  the 
shopman  as  rare  and  valuable.  To  satisfy  my  curiosity, 
I  asked  him  the  price  of  them,  and  was  told  five  dollare : 
they  could  be  bought  in  the  United  States  for  fifty  cents 
the  dozen,  if  not  less." 

"We  saw  also  some  beautiful  specimens  of  lacquer-ware 
in  another  shop  : — 

"  This  man,  who  was  a  skilful  workman,  and  whose 
wares  were  all  sent  to  Pekin  (at  least  a  thousand  miles) 
as  fast  as  they  left  his  hands,  showed  us  a  tray  containing 
twelve  oval  lacquered  boxes  about  as  large  as  one's  fist, 
for  which  he  asked  fifteen  dollars  each :  we  admired  them 
greatly,  buttoned  up  our  pockets,  and  retreated  to  our 
chairs." 

We  returned  to  the  Consulate  in  time  for  dinner,  and 
the  next  day  were  again  climbing  the  wall-like  sides  of 
the  unfortunate  "old  John." 

We  remained  at  our  anchorage  near  the  pagoda 
several  days,  during  Avhich  time  we  made  a  partial  survey 


DEATH.  141 

of  the  river,  and  bad  the  misfortuue  to  lose  a  highly- 
esteemed  messmate  in  the  person  of  Acting  Lieutenant 
Henry  St.  Geo.  Hunter.  This  officer  had  sufi'ered  with 
the  disease  of  the  country  for  some  months,  and  was  now 
carried  ofl'  by  it  in  the  flower  of  bis  manhood.  His 
untimely  death  cast  a  gloom  over  our  social  board,  and 
deprived  the  Expedition  of  a  valuable  officer.  We  buried 
him  in  the  shady  graveyard  of  the  foreigners,  and  paid 
for  the  erection  of  a  granite  monument  over  his  lamented 
remains.     Poor  Hal ! 

The  weather  having  now  moderated  and  our  bunkers 
being  full  of  wood,  we  again  put  to  sea  with  the  Cooper 
in  tow,  and  continued  our  voyage  to  Shanghae.  It  proved 
but  a  passing  lull,  however,  and  at  the  end  of  the  first 
twenty-four  hours  we  again  found  ourselves  beating  to 
windward  against  a  northeast  gale.  The  reader  already 
knows  how  the  "old  John"  was  wont  to  acquit  herself 
under  such  circumstances.  Like  a  huge  disabled  crab,  she 
drifted  helplessly  to  leeward,  and  we  thought  ourselves 
more  than  fortunate  when  we  were  able  to  take  shelter  in 
a  place  called  Bullocks'  Harbour,  which  we  surveyed  and 
made  ourselves  comfortable  in  for  the  space  of  twenty- 
four  hours.  There  we  bought  four  fine  bullocks  for  seven 
dollars,  a  large  quantity  of  sweet  potatoes  for  a  few  pieces 
of  fat  pork,  and  sailed  again  the  next  day  before  a  light 
breeze. 

Our  glory  was  short :  we  had  scarcely  got  sail  set  when 
the  wind  hauled  in  our  teeth  again,  and  we  were  forced 
to  send  down  all  yards  and  masts,  and  steam  in  under  the 
land  to  avoid  losing  ground.  This  was  ticklish  work: 
sometimes  we  ran  in  such  shoal  water  that  we  could  see 


142  A   CLOSE    SHAVE. 

the  bottom,  and  yet  if  we  had  kept  out  from  the  land  we 
would  not  have  been  able  to  steam  against  the  sea :  our 
only  hope  was  to  keep  in  smooth  water,  carry  as  much 
steam  as  possible,  and  try  to  get  to  Shanghae  before  our 
coal  gave  out.  All  the  wood  which  we  had  taken  in  at 
Fou-chow  was  soon  expended,  and,  before  commencing 
on  the  remnant  of  coal,  we  burnt  up  all  the  spare  timber 
about  the  decks, — chicken-coops,  old  chairs,  pieces  of 
masts,  &c.  &c.,  and,  finally,  the  few  tons  of  coal.  "We 
reached  our  port  on  the  7th  of  October,  with  a  few  bags 
of  coal, — the  sweepings  of  the  bunkers.  Had  we  been 
two  hours  later,  we  would  have  drifted  helplessly  about 
until  the  arrival  of  a  fair  wind. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

•WE    AKRIVE    AT     SHANGHAE,    WHENCE    WE     SAIL    WITH     THE     COMMISSIONERS 

FOR    THE    PI-HO WE     PASS     OVER     THE     YELLOW     SEA    IN     FINE     STYLE, 

ANCHOR    IN     SIGHT    OF    THE     MOUTH    OF    THE    PI-HO,    AND     SEND     IN    THE 

SMALLER    VESSELS WE      FAIL     TO      "REACH     PEKIN     BY     WATER,"     AND 

RETURN    IN    DISGUST    TO     SHANGHAE,     WHERE    THE     OLD     JOHN's     ENGINE 
"  RUNS     DOWN." 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Shanghae,  we  found  the  "  Pekin 
party"  awaiting  our  arrival  with,  the  most  intense 
anxiety.  Mr.  McLean,  in  particular,  having  heard  a 
most  doleful  account  of  the  inefficiency  of  our  "  screw- 
steamer-of-war  of  the  third  class,"  began  to  give  us  up, 
and  had  made  up  his  mind  to  sail  the  next  day  should 
we  not  arrive.  The  consequence  was  that  we  had  to 
work  day  and  night  coaling  ship,  and,  when  that  was 
accomplished,  the  Powhatan  took  both  the  schooner 
and  ourselves  in  tow,  and  walked  off  with  us  at  the  rate 
of  eleven  miles  an  hour.  The  Rattler  followed  with 
the  hired  lorcha,  and  thus  we  boomed  it  over  the  smooth 
and  polished  surface  of  the  Yellow  Sea  and  the  Gulf  of 
Pichili,  until  one  moonlight  night  we  found  ourselves 
anchoring  in  six  fathoms  of  water  and  no  land  in  sight. 

The  next  morning  we   got  under  way  and   steamed 

into   four  fathoms,  when  we   could  just   see   some  low 

land  in   the  distance,  which   our   observations   told   us 

was  about  the  mouth  of  the  Pi-ho  River.     We  had  not 

had  a  breath  of  wind  since  leaving  Shanghae,  and  had 

143 


144  THE    OLD    JOHN    "  FEELS    HER    OATS." 

come  several  hundred  miles.  The  sea  had  been  like  a 
broad  expanse  of  polished  glass. 

The  "old  John"  now  began  to  feel  herself  of  vast 
importance :  we  only  drew  twelve-feet  of  water,  and  could 
consequently  go  much  nearer  the  river  than  the  other 
steamers ;  so  we  took  the  lorcha  and  Cooper  in  tow  and 
stood  in  for  the  land.  We  ran  into  thirteen-feet  water, 
and  then  cast  off"  the  vessels,  which  continued  on  before  a 
light  breeze,  the  lorcha  getting  safely  into  the  river,  and 
the  schooner,  which  drew  a  foot  more  water,  grounding 
on  a  bank  near  its  mouth.  "We  were  a  week  getting 
her  in  after  that, — some  of  the  hardest  work  I  ever 
engaged  in.  Then,  after  both  she  and  the  lorcha  were 
safely  anchored  inside  of  the  mud  forts,  the  secretaries 
of  the  commissioners  took  up  their  residence  on  board 
and  communications  commenced. 

The  Chinese  seemed  very  averse  to  have  any  thing  to 
say  to  us  at  all,  and  humbugged  us  to  such  an  extent 
that  some  of  us  advocated  the  idea  of  forcing  our  way 
up  to  Pekin  and  demanding  an  interview  in  person. 
As  we  were  not  the  confidential  advisers  of  the  minis- 
ters, however,  our  opinion  had  little  weight, —  none  at 
all,  I  fear. 

Thus  passed  several  weeks ;  and,  while  the  diplomatists 
were  making  themselves  hoarse  with  talking,  we  made  a 
beautiful  survey  of  the  locality, — the  schooner  attending 
to  every  thing  inside  of  the  river,  and  our  ship  the  bar  and 
adjoining  coasts.  The  schooner  had  Carnes — our  sailing- 
master — and  his  boat  to  assist  her ;  and  upon  one  occasion, 
when  they  were  trying  to  ascend  the  river  as  high  as  pos- 
sible, they  came  to  a  barrier  of  junks  with  only  a  passage- 


WE  FAIL  TO  "  REACH  PEKIN  BY  WATER."      145 

way  of  some  twenty  feet  wide  between  the  two  tiers,  and, 
upon  their  attempting  to  go  through  it,  they  were  assailed 
by  crowds  of  Chinese  armed  with  spears  and  match- 
locks, and  found  themselves  under  the  necessity  of  re- 
treating quietly  or  shedding  blood.  They  chose  the 
former,  as  the  latter  might  have  put  a  stop  to  all  com- 
munication. Besides,  the  officers  had  no  orders,  and 
did  not  feel  themselves  empowered  to  "  declare  war." 

We  found  the  Chinese  of  that  region  a  powerful  and 
athletic  set  of  men,  very  different  from  those  of  more 
southern  latitudes:  the  women  we  did  not  see.  Lieu- 
tenant Raper,  R.IT.,  locates  the  mouth  of  this  river  in 
lat.  38°  58'  K  and  long.  117°  47'  E.,  and  we  found  ten 
feet  of  water  on  its  bar  at  high-tide  and  twelve  or  four- 
teen fathoms  inside.  From  all  that  we  could  see,  there 
was  no  reason  why  an  ordinary  river-steamer  might  not 
ascend  it  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Pekin,  this  city  being 
situated  some  distance  from  the  bank. 

Our  commissioners  had  one  or  two  grand  "powwows" 
on  the  beach  inside  of  the  river,  which  we  all  attended 
in  full  uniform,  after  which  they  steamed  away  in  dis- 
gust, leaving  the  "  old  John"  and  the  Cooper  to  con- 
tinue the  survey  toward  the  Great  Wall  of  China,  now 
only  some  hundred  miles  to  the  northward  and  eastward 
of  us.  As  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  learn,  our  "attempt 
to  reach  Pekin  by  water"  was  followed  by  no  results; 
but  this  failure  must  not  be  placed  at  the  door  of  Mr. 
McLean  and  Sir  John  Bowering :  it  was  entirely  owing 
to  the  determination  of  the  Chinese  to  keep  all  foreigners 
out  of  the  centre  of  their  empire. 

We  now  spent  several  days  working  up  to  the  Great 

10 


146  TIDAL   OBSERVATIONS. 

Wall,  during  which  time  myself  and  a  boat's  crew  nar- 
rowly escaped  drowning.     My  journal  says, — 

"At  10  A.M.,  every  thing  in  the  shape  of  provisions, 
water,  ammunition,  &c.  being  in  the  boat,  and  the  crew 
amply  provided  with  pea-jackets  and  blankets,  we  shoved 
off  and  dropped  slowly  astern,  while  the  Phenomenon 
herself  (the  'old  John')  began  laboriously  to  gather  her 
sluggish  headway.  Soon  we  heard  the  engine-bell  ring 
four  times,  (ahead  strong,)  and  then  voices  began  to  die 
away  and  faces  to  be  confused  by  the  increasing  dis- 
tance. We  were  left  alone  upon  the  proverbially-trea- 
cherous bosom  of  the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  with  a  clumsy  and 
leaky  boat,  a  six-pounder  howitzer  mounted  forward, 
a  week's  provision,  (in  case  of  being  lost,)  and  water 
stowed  about  in  spots,  and  a  dozen  ashen  oars,  one  mast 
and  sail,  with  which  to  protect  ourselves  against  said 
proverbial  treachery. 

"Our  orders  were  to  anchor  where  we  were  left  and 
make  tidal  observations  during  the  day,  after  which  we 
would  be  picked  up  by  the  Phenomenon  toward  night, 
—  a  most  unpleasant  prospect  for  a  cold,  raw  day. 
Down  went  the  anchor,  however,  as  soon  as  said  Phe- 
nomenon cleared  us,  over  went  the  lead,  and  the  mono- 
tonous employment  commenced.  It  consisted  of  sounding 
every  ten  minutes,  the  time  and  depth  of  water  being 
noted  in  lead-pencil  at  each  cast;  and  the  hours  passed 
heavily  enough,  as  may  be  imagined. 

"  It  was  one  of  the  most  quiet  days  I  ever  passed, — 
quiet,  not  only  so  far  as  work  and  noise  were  concerned, 
but  also  in  the  perfect  rest  of  the  elements.  Not  a  pass- 
ing cloud  interposed  itself  between  us  and  the  welcome 


A   RISING   GALE.  147 

rays  of  the  sun ;  not  a  fitful  breath  of  disturbed  air 
chilled  our  blood,  or  darkly  ruffled  the  smooth  and 
placid  surface  of  the  sleeping  gulf.  All  was  quiet :  nature 
lived  her  inanimate  life  around  us  in  the  form  of  water 
and  sky  only ;  for  the  low  land  of  Pichili,  though  visible 
from  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  had  sunk  below  the  clearly- 
defined  horizon  as  we  descended  into  the  boat,  and  the 
ship  herself  had  slowly  steamed  from  us  on  her  trackless 
path,  until,  from  a  mere  speck  upon  the  opposite  horizon, 
she  had  finally  disappeared  entirely.  ITeither  the  air 
nor  the  water  showed  a  sign  of  life.  "We  were  alone 
upon  the  motionless  surface  of  an  unknown  sea,  with 
the  silent  repose  of  nature  for  our  only  companion.  At 
noon  I  got  an  altitude  of  the  sun,  and  then,  leaving  the 
coxswain  to  note  the  soundings,  stretched  out  for  a  nap 
in  the  sunny  corner  of  the  stern-sheets.  An  hour  passed, 
and  its  last  minutes  found  me  shivering  with  cold  and 
gazing  anxiously  at  a  lowering  change  which  had  come 
over  the  face  of  awakening  nature. 

"The  sea  was  no  longer  smooth  and  polished,  but 
broken  by  rising  waves  and  of  an  inky  hue ;  while  the 
sun  was  hidden  by  dense  masses  of  driving  clouds  whose 
lurid  edges  indicated  the  commencement  of  a  northern 
gale.  The  wind  was  already  blowing  quite  fresh,  and 
the  boat  rolling  uneasily  in  the  rising  sea,  dipping  in  the 
spray-crests  occasionally,  and  jerking  at  her  anchor  as  if 
asking  for  more  chain.  I  began  to  think  we  might  be  in 
an  awkward  predicament,  but  kept  my  fears  to  myself, 
and  ordered  more  chain  veered.  Then  we  unshipped  the 
howitzer  and  got  it  in  the  bottom,  after  which  she  rode 
easier.     Anxious  eyes  now  began  to  be  cast  in  the  sup- 


148  A    MOST    UNPLEASANT   SITUATION. 

posed  directiou  of  the  ship,  but  even  her  smoke  was  not 
to  be  seen.  There  was  a  smoky  appearance,  truly,  but  it 
was  that  of  the  rising  gale ;  and,  as  we  wrapped  our  blan- 
kets around  our  shivering  frames,  we  knew  that  there  was 
anxiety,  and  work,  and  danger, — possibly  death, — in  the 
voice  of  the  leaping  waves  and  in  those  lurid  masses  of 
hurrying  clouds. 

"  The  water  was  now  coming  over  the  bow  quite  fast ; 
so  we  commenced  baling,  served  out  an  extra  allowance 
of  grog,  and  continued  watching  for  the  ship. 

"And  so  another  and  another  hour  rolled  by,  and  the 
gloom  of  approaching  night  began  to  deepen  that  of  the 
rising  gale.  Ours  was  now  a  most  unpleasant  situation. 
The  water  was  swashing  over  either  beam  at  every  roll, 
curling  over  the  bow  at  every  dive,  and  giving  us  sharp 
work  with  both  buckets  to  keep  it  from  gaining  on  us. 
After  a  while  it  did  gain  on  us,  and  men's  faces  began  to 
turn  pale.  I  felt  that  things  were  getting  desperate,  and, 
adjusting  a  glass,  swept  the  eastern  board  in  the  vain 
hope  of  catching  a  glimpse  of  the  expected  smoke :  there 
was  nothing  to  be  seen  but  a  bank  of  moving  mist. 

"  Our  circle  of  vision  had  by  this  time  been  narrowed 
down  to  a  diameter  of  some  two  miles,  and  we  were  just 
fearing  that  the  ship  might  miss  us  in  the  fog,  when  sud- 
denly, like  a  meteor  shooting  into  the  clear  sky  from 
behind  a  passing  cloud,  she  burst  through  the  bank  of 
thickening  mist  into  a  glorious  full  view.  She  was  distant 
not  more  than  a  mile,  was  smoking  like  a  young  volcano, 
was  under  a  crowd  of  sail  at  the  same  time,  and,  in  short, 
evidently  doing  her  best  to  reach  us.  A  long-drawn  breath 
seemed  to  relieve  every  one.     A  few  minutes  later  we 


"SPECIAL    service"   AND    "EXTRA    PAY."  149 

were  alongside,  with  the  boat  half  full  of  water,  ourselves 
soaked  to  the  skin  and  half  numbed  with  cold,  but  still 
safe. 

"'Glad  to  see  you!'  said  the  captain,  as  we  crawled 
heavily  over  the  side.  'Bad  weather  came  up  very  sud- 
denly: didn't  it?  I^ever  mind;  it'll  rub  off  when  it  gets 
dry :  besides,  this  is  special  service,  for  which  Congress  is 
to  give  us  extra  pay.  Heave  the  ship  to  with  her  head 
off  shore,  Mr.  Russell.'  So  much  for  this  unpleasantly- 
near  approach  to  a  long  swim." 

We  now  experienced  a  continued  spell  of  bad  weather, 
which  forced  us  to  relinquish  the  idea  of  reaching  the 
Great  "Wall,  and  drove  us  with  tingling  ears  from  the  Gulf 
of  Pichili  into  the  Yellow  Sea.  I  have  already  remarked 
that  the  surface  of  this  sea  was  like  a  vast  expanse  of 
polished  glass  when  we  crossed  it  in  tow  of  the  Pow- 
hatan, and  that  we  had  not  felt  a  breath  of  wind  during 
the  passage ;  but  now,  alas !  how  changed  was  the  state 
of  affairs  !  The  sea  was  dark  and  broken,  and  gale  suc- 
ceeded gale  in  place  of  the  endless  calm.  There  were 
some  doubtful  islands  in  this  sea  which  we  wished  to 
satisfy  ourselves  in  regard  to  before  returning  to  Shang- 
hae,  and  several  more  days  were  devoted  to  searching  for 
them.  We  were  unsuccessful;  and,  finding  time  running 
short,  squared  away  on  our  return-trip. 

This  was  during  the  latter  part  of  ISTovember,  1854, — the 
28th,  I  think ;  and  that  night  we  had  a  fearful  time.  Let 
me  describe  it. 

Imagine  yourself  upon  the  restless  ocean  with  the 
destroying  hurricane  breathing  its  furious  breath  around 
your  labouring  craft ;  with  the  rugged  rocks  and  boiling 


150  A  HARD   CHOICE. 

surf  of  tlie  dreaded  "  lee  shore"  looming  upon  the  misty 
horizon,  and  warning  you  of  the  necessity  of  "  holding 
your  own"  against  the  gale,  while  friendly  miles  of  space 
yet  lie  between  you  and  their  fatal  dangers.  Imagine 
yourself  watching  the  strained  canvas  and  the  complain- 
ing spar,  the  hauling  gale,  the  heav}^  dive  into  the  green 
seas,  and  the  distant  land,  which,  as  the  gale  hauls,  is 
fast  changing  into  the  dreaded  "lee  shore."  Imagine 
yourself  at  the  commencement  of  a  dark  and  stormy 
night,  with  the  position  of  your  ship  but  poorly  defined 
upon  an  unreliable  chart,  suddenly  called  upon  to  run 
her  through  a  narrow  passage,  before  the  gale,  while  yet 
its  direction  enabled  you  to  do  so,  or  remain  "  hove  to" 
with  the  strong  probability  of  being  wrecked  on  the 
rocks  before  morning.  Imagine  yourself  in  circum- 
stances similar  to  these,  and  you  can  readily  appreciate 
our  feelings  as  the  shades  of  such  a  dark  and  stormy 
night  closed  around  us  and  left  us  to  choose  between 
those  two  evils. 

"We  had  scared}'  squared  away  when  the  weather, 
which  had  been  overcast  and  threatening  for  some  days, 
came  on  very  thick  and  heavy,  and  combined  with  un- 
known currents,  want  of  observations,  and  doubtful 
charts,  to  render  our  position  perilous  in  the  extreme. 
We  had  been  several  days  without  a  glance  at  any  celes- 
tial body  when  we  kept  away,  and  the  consequence  was 
that  we  did  not  very  well  know  where  ive  were  running  to 
at  such  a  grand  rate :  we  might  soon  find  ourselves  on  a 
pile  of  rocks  for  what  we  knew ;  so  we  wisely  hove  to 
under  a  close-reefed  maintopsail,  and  with  just  enough 
steam  on  to  keep  the  old  tub  from  falling  off  into  the 


THE    RESULT   OF   A   "  WEATHER-ROLL."  151 

trough  of  the  rapidly-increasing  sea.  Even  with  tlie 
assistance  of  steam,  however,  we  did  not  make  half  the 
weather  of  it  that  the  little  Cooper  did,  who,  with  her 
close-reefed  foresail  only,  climbed  over  the  threatening 
seas  with  the  lightness  of  a  feather  and  "held  her  own" 
beautifully ;  while  we,  like  a  huge  crab,  drifted  bodily  to 
leeward,  as  usual.  The  consequence  of  this  was  that  in  a 
very  few  hours  we  lost  sight  of  her  light,  and  when  we 
next  saw  it  it  was  off  the  town  of  Shanghae.  I  turn  to 
my  journal  for  an  account  of  our  subsequent  doings: — 

"We  drifted  along  quite  miserably  in  this  way  for 
some  time,  our  decks  being  no  sooner  well  clear  of  one 
sea  than  another  would  slap  her  on  the  bow,  curl  over 
the  rail,  and  sweep  aft  through  the  lee  gangway.  "We 
had  taken  the  precaution  to  batten  down  all  of  the  for- 
ward hatches  before  the  arrival  of  night,  and  at  about 
four  bells  in  the  first  watch  (10  p.m.)  began  to  wish  that 
we  had  done  likewise  by  the  after  ones.  At  that  hour  a 
heavy  weather-roll  brought  in  a  sea  over  the  main  chains 
that  deluged  the  quarter-deck,  filled  the  ward-room  and 
our  state-rooms  six  inches  deep,  and  swashed  up  into 
our  bunks  with  so  much  effect  as  to  soak  our  beds  and 
awaken  us  most  thoroughly. 

"Having  the  mid-watch  ahead,  I  had  turned  in  an 
hour  before,  and  was  annoyed,  though  not  at  all  sur- 
prised, at  my  nocturnal  bath :  it  was  not  the  first  thing 
of  the  kind  by  any  means,  and,  being  easily  pleased,  I 
was  fast  becoming  reconciled  to  it  as  one  of  the  neces- 
sary accompaniments  of  that  interesting  cruise.  Buckets, 
dippers,  and  swabs,  were  now  in  great  demand,  and  a 
quarter-watch — called  quarter,  I  suppose,  because  it  means 


152  now   WE    SLEPT    DURING    BAD    WEATHER. 

half  the  watch  that  are  on  deck — was  sent  helow  to  pass 
up  the  water,  w^hile  the  others  helped  the  carpenter  to 
batten  down  the  ofieudiug  hatches. 

"While  the  men  were  thus  haling,  while  the  old  ship 
rolled  horribly,  and  while  I  was  turning  over  my  mattress 
in  the  partially-successful  search  for  a  dry  spot  upon  which 
to  coil  myself  away  for  the  next  two  hours, — while  all  of 
this  was  going  on,  I  heard  a  knock  at  my  state-room  door, 
and  then  the  voice  of  the  quartermaster  of  the  watch : — 

"  '  Mr.  Habersham !' 

"'Well?' 

"  '  The  cap'n  wants  you,  sir.' 

"  '  The  mischief  he  does !     How  many  bells  is  it?' 

"'Gone  four,  sir!' 

"  '  Very  well !     Any  thing  wrong  ?' 

"  'ISTo,  sir!  Only  it's  a-blowin'  a  livin'  gale,  and  she's 
mighty  uncomfortable.  The  cap'n  wants  you  in  the 
cabin  with  Mr.  Russell  and  the  master :  they're  all  over 
the  chart  now.' 

"'All  right!'  I  exclaimed;  but  I  buttoned  up  my 
monkey-jacket  over  a  vast  deal  of  disgust  and  dissatis- 
fiiction  as  I  stepped  down  into  the  half  knee-deep  water, 
and  made  my  way  aft  through  a  confused  mass  of  broken 
chairs,  floating  spittoons,  and  baling  men.  I  never  felt 
so  out  with  the  sea,  so  great  a  longing  to  quit  it  for  a 
shore-profession,  as  I  did  during  that  groping  walk;  and, 
as  I  put  my  hand  upon  the  cabin-door,  my  mind  was 
pretty  well  made  up  never  again  to  engage  in  a  surveying 
and  exploring  expedition  around  the  world. 

"'Sorry  to  disturb  you,  Mr.  II ,'  said  the  captain, 

as  I  opened  the  door  and  took  off  my  cap ;  '  but  the  truth 


UNPLEASANT   INFORMATION.  153 

is,  we  are  getting  into  another  of  our  tight  places,  and 
want  to  advise  together  as  the  best  course  to  avoid  it.' 

"  'You  haven't  disturbed  me  at  all,  sir,'  I  replied ;  '  the 
water  got  the  start  of  you  :  our  rooms  are  all  afloat  again 
in  the  ward-room.' 

"  '  So  I  hear.  Well,  I'm  afraid  we'll  have  to  steam  up 
and  get  her  off"  before  this  gale.  "We  are  making  such  a 
bad  weather  of  it  that  we  have  parted  company  with  the 
Cooper.  The  gale  blows  stronger  every  minute,  and 
hauls  too :  if  it  continues  thus  for  two  hours,  it  will  make 
the  coast  of  China  a  lee  shore.  We  must  run  through 
between  the  capes  before  it  heads  us  off,  or  stand  our 
chance  of  holding  our  own  sufiiciently  well  to  keep  off 
the  land.  E, and  C and  myself  have  been  talk- 
ing it  over,  and  think  we'd  better  run  for  the  China  Sea, 
in  spite  of  the  strong  chance  that  exists  of  our  running 
down  one  or  the  other  of  the  capes.  We  don't  know 
where  we  are:  we  have  only  dead  reckoning  to  work 
upon,  but  we  think  it  the  best  chance.  Have  you  any 
thing  to  advise  V 

"I  looked  at  Carnes.  He  had  made  two  black  spots 
on  the  chart,  and  joined  them  by  a  straight  line. 

"  'We  have  every  reason  to  suppose  that  we  are  on  this 
line,'  he  said,  in  answer  to  my  look  of  inquiry ;  '  but  upon 
what  exact  part  of  it  we  cannot  say.  The  chances  are 
about  two  out  of  three  that  we  are  between  the  spots ; 
hence  we  may  be  outside,  and,  if  we  are  outside  and  con- 
clude to  run,  we  are  lost.  We  propose  steering  a  south 
course,  which  will  take  us  between  the  capes  and  into  the 
open  sea,  if  our  supposition  is  right.  If  I  have  allowed 
too  much  or  too  little  for  drift  and  current,  or  if  the  chart 


154  A   GREAT  SATISFACTION. 

is  much  out,  we  will  strike  on  the  east  or  west  cape,  as 
the  case  may  be.  If  we  remain  here  and  the  gale  goes 
on  hauling,  we  will  he  on  a  lee  shore  before  morning,  and 
you  know  what  the  old  beast  would  do  then.  My  voice  is 
for  running  on  a  south  course.     Voila! — the  elephant!' 

"  He  shrugged  his  shoulders,  half  Frenchman  as  he  is, 
and  indulged  in  a  muttered  imprecation,  as  the  ship  made 
a  heav}^  lurch  that  almost  threw  us  from  our  feet. 

"  'I  think,  too,  that  our  best  chance  is  in  running,  sir,' 
I  replied,  as  Stevens  again  asked  my  opinion ;  '  it's  an 
ugly  night,  and  we  are  as  likely  to  feel  the  capes  as  see 
them  :  still,  it  won't  do  to  remain  here.' 

"'Well,  then,  run  it  is;  we  have  the  satisfaction  of 
knowing  that  we  are  all  agreed,  at  any  rate.  Tell  Mr. 
Lawton  to  get  up  plenty  of  steam ;  and  have  all  hands 
called  to  wear  ship.  Goose-wing  the  foresail,  secure 
every  thing  about  the  decks,  batten  down  the  cabin  sky- 
light, and  let  me  know  when  you're  ready  for  putting  the 
helm  up.  There's  an  awful  sea  running,  but  we  must 
try  to  find  a  smooth  time,  and  then  get  by  the  trough  as 
soon  as  possible.' 

"  So  we  left  him  and  went  on  deck,  where  an  active 
and  exciting  scene  at  once  commenced.  The  clear,  shrill 
whistle  of  our  only  boatswain's  mate  first  arose  over  the 
howling  of  the  gale,  and  called  eveiy  man  to  his  station 
for  'wearing  ship.'  Then  commenced  the  preparations, — 
lights  floating  around  the  gloomy  decks,  and  only  serving 
to  render  every  thing  more  gloomy  than  before;  men 
hurrying  here  and  there;  the  flapping  of  sails,  the  creak- 
ing of  blocks,  the  slapping  about  of  the  running  rigging, 
and  the  unnatural  voice  of  the  speaking-trumpet  sti'iving 


ANXIOUS   MOMENTS.  155 

in  vain  to  make  itself  heard  over  the  battle  of  the  ele- 
ments. Nor  was  this  all :  the  thick  sheets  of  descending 
rain,  the  heavy  seas  which  now  often  broke  over  half  the 
length  of  the  ship,  and  the  visible  darkness,  whose  gloom, 
as  I  have  said,  seemed  only  increased  by  the  flitting  lights 
that  danced  around  the  decks,  combined  to  render  the 
whole  affair  any  thing  but  pleasant,  and  promised  us  an 
anxious  night. 

"The  men,  too,  became  frightened,  and  Russell,  who, 
as  second  lieutenant,  had  his  station  on  the  forecastle,  find- 
ing them  afraid  to  ascend  even  to  the  foreyard,  sprang 
into  the  rigging  in  the  hope  of  shaming  them  into  bold- 
ness. The  device  succeeded,  and  in  twenty  minutes 
from  the  commencement  every  thing  was  ready.  The 
captain  now  took  his  position  near  the  wheel,  while  I 
climbed  into  the  weather  mizzen-rigging  and  commenced 
to  watch  anxiously  the  towering  seas  as  they  rolled  by, 
partly  under  our  keel,  partly  over  our  decks.  Those 
were  some  of  the  most  anxious  moments  of  my  whole 
life,  as  we  thus  awaited  the  arrival  of  a  period  of  com- 
parative quiet  to  enable  the  helm  to  be  put  up  with  safety. 
It  was  so  dark  that  we  could  not  see  the  seas  until  they 
were  nearly  upon  us,  and  we  could  only  hope  to  feel,  by 
the  change  in  the  ship's  motion,  when  the  proper  time 
was  arriving.  Finally,  I  judged  it  at  hand,  and,  as  the  old 
ship  recovered  herself  after  a  more  than  usually  heavy 
lurch  and  dive,  gave  the  orders,  'Hard  up  the  helm !  Go 
ahead  strong  with  the  engine  !  Brace  in  the  after  yards ! 
Haul  aboard  the  fore  tack!"  And  then  every  thing  was 
done  that  we  could  do.  It  now  became  the  turn  of  the 
head  sails,  of  the  helm,  and  of  the  propeller,  to  do  the 


156  HOLD    HARD  ! 

rest.  If  she  went  off  before  the  wind  previous  to  the 
arrival  of  another  heavy  sea,  we  were  all  right ;  if  she 
hung  in  the  trough,  we  would,  in  all  probability,  founder 
in  five  minutes.  In  either  case,  nothing  more  could  be 
done  to  help  her :  the  die  had  been  cast. 

"I  grasped  the  rigging  more  tightly,  and  strained  my 
eyes  toward  the  labouring  bow ;  but  every  thing  was  so 
dark  and  impenetrable  that  I  could  only  liope  that  she  was 
falling  off.  Suddenly  I  felt  the  wind  drawing  abeam, 
then  abaft  it.  I  began  to  breathe  freely.  *  *  *  * 
What  a  glorious  thing  a  propeller  is  !  Wlien  the  helm 
had  been  put  up,  the  old  tub  was  lying  like  a  log  in  the 
troubled  ocean,  and  yet  the  rushing  waters  of  the  whirl- 
ing screw,  acting  upon  the  lee  face  of  the  rudder,  turned 
her  as  upon  a  pivot,  thus  bringing  both  wind  and  sea  abaft 
the  beam  sooner  than  we  had  any  reason  to  hope  for. 
Yes ;  the  dreaded  trough  was  passed  quickly,  and  yet  not 
a  second  too  soon ;  for  it  was  no  sooner  accomplished 
than  the  heaviest  sea  of  any  that  had  yet  struck  us  came 
rolling  up  under  our  weather  quarter,  broke  completely 
over  our  decks,  and  caused  the  old  ship  to  vibrate  as  if 
every  timber  in  her  had  been  started. 
,  "  It  was  a  beautiful  as  well  as  a  fearful  sight,  to  see  that 
sea  rear  its  tottering  crest  over  the  very  quarter,  cast 
itself  bodily  upon  our  trembling  decks,  and  then  rush  for- 
ward, half  of  it  in-board,  half  of  it  out-board,  along  our 
weather  bulwarks,  sweeping  with  it  arm-chests,  gratings, 
spare  spars,  yelping  dogs,  squeaking  pigs,  empty  chicken- 
coops,  struggling  men, — in  short,  every  thing  that  was 
movable.  Some  of  these  it  swept  completely  overboard ; 
others  it  lodged  in  the  ropes  along  the  bulwarks,  or  piled 


RUNNING  THE  GAUNTLET.  157 

in  a  confused  mass  under  and  about  the  launcli.  All 
along  our  weather  bulwark  it  broke  also,  from  the  very 
quarter  to  the  distant  stem,  pouring  in  over  the  rail  like 
a  young  Niagara,  loosening  spars  from  the  chains,  and 
twisting  off  the  wing  of  the  crow-like  eagle  that  had  for 
years  adorned  (?)  our  bow.  It  was  a  fearful  shock,  and 
we  feared  for  the  ship  after  it.  What  would  have  been 
our  fate  had  it  struck  us  fair  on  the  beam  ?  At  the  same 
time,  it  was  productive  of  a  good  result ;  for,  as  her  stern 
settled  down  as  its  body  passed  from  under  us,  we  were 
urged  forward  with  a  velocity  which,  combined  with  the 
action  of  the  propeller,  threw  us  before  both  wind  and 
sea  and  told  us  that  the  danger  of  the  trough  was  passed. 
We  actually  astonished  the  barnacles  and  rudder-fish  by 
flying  before  the  gale  at  the  rate  of  eleven  knots  the 
hour;  and,  even  after  disconnecting  the  propeller,  we 
found  her  speed  but  slightly  reduced,  so  heavy  was  the 
gale  and  sea  that  drove  us  ahead. 

"And  thus  we  ran  the  gauntlet  of  those  rugged  capes, 
through  that  dark  night,  that  blinding  rain,  that  shriek- 
ing hurricane,  and  before  those  angry  seas  that  growled 
and  broke  and  rose  again  under  our  flying  stern.  The 
night  seemed  longer,  and  darker,  and  more  dismal,  than 
any  night  I  had  ever  passed  before ;  but  daylight  came  at 
last,  and  with  it  the  conviction  of  safety.  At  noon  it  was 
clear  weather  once  more,  and  we  got  observations  that 
fixed  our  position  on  the  chart.  Then  we  drew  a  straight 
line  due  north  from  it;  and  it  was  frightful  to  see  how 
closely  we  had  shaved  the  left  cape, — so  closely,  that  bad 
steering  alone  might  have  cast  us  upon  its  hopeless  rocks, 
and  then " 


158  THE  GOVERNMENT  SAVES  $250. 

It  would  be  unjust  to  end  this  adventure  without  ac- 
cording due  credit  to  him  whose  close  navigation-  and 
sound  judgment  carried  us  safely  through  it, — Mr.  E.  O. 
Carnes,  the  sailing-master  of  the  ship,  then  a  passed-mid- 
shipman,  and  now  the  occupant  of  a  "Wall  Street  office. 
The  hardships  of  that  cruise,  combined  with  a  latent  dis- 
taste for  the  sea,  disgusted  him  with  the  navy  and  caused 
him  to  resign  his  warrant.  Fortunately  for  the  Expedi- 
tion, he  could  not  hear  of  the  acceptance  of  his  resigna- 
tion by  the  Government  until  our  arrival  at  San  Francisco, 
when  he  was  thrown  upon  his  own  resources  and  allowed 
to  find  his  way  home  as  best  he  could. 

We  now  shaped  our  course  for  Shanghae,  and  while 
entering  the  "Woo-sung  River  the  propeller  suddenly 
"ran  down,"  and  forced  us  to  anchor  to  avoid  drifting 
on  shore.  We  could  not  imagine  what  caused  this  sin- 
gular stoppage,  and  resorted  to  every  device  to  get  it  to 
start  again.  We  finally  had  to  blow  ofi"  steam  and  trust 
to  our  sails  to  get  us  up  to  the  city,  which  was  only  a  few 
miles  off.  It  took  us  several  days  to  accomplish  this ;  and 
we  could  not  but  wonder  what  would  have  been  our  fate 
had  it  failed  us  during  or  immediately  after  the  gale. 
We  were  subsequently  engaged  more  than  two  months 
repairing  it, — a  great  loss  of  valuable  time,  and  the  source 
of  considerable  expense  to  the  Government. 


CHAPTER  X. 

WE  HEAR  A  DISTRESSING  RUMOUR.  AND  ARE  GREATLY  DISPIRITED — WE  ARE 
REQUESTED  BY  THE  MERCHANTS  OF  SHANGHAE  TO  ATTACK  A  PIRATICAL 
SQUADRON,  AND  EVINCE  A  PRAISEWORTHY  READINESS  FOR  ACTION — THE 
OLD  JOHN  ASTONISHES  THE  CHINESE  OF  THE  WAN-CHEW  RIVER,  AFTER 
WHICH    SHE   VISITS    FORMOSA    AND    LIBERATES    TWO    CHINESE    CONVICTS. 

While  we  were  working  our  toilsome  way  up  the 
Woo-sung  River,  a  painful  rumour  spread  itself  around 
our  decks  and  weighed  us  down  with  a  shapeless  and 
horrid  fear.  It  was  said  that  the  Porpoise  was  lost;  but 
how  the  news  came,  or  who  had  spoken  positively  of  it, 
no  one  could  tell.  A  startled  feeling  of  doubt,  and  sur- 
prise, and  distressing  uncertainty,  pervaded  every  heart. 

While  in  this  gloomy  state  of  mind,  we  were  one  day 
greatly  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  the  Cooper,  whom,  it 
will  be  remembered,  we  had  left  in  the  Yellow  Sea,  exposed 
to  the  fury  of  a  heavy  gale  and  the  dangers  of  a  probable 
lee  shore.  We  had  been  so  disheartened  by  the  report 
of  the  loss  of  the  Porpoise,  that  our  fears  for  the  safety 
of  our  little  consort  had  been  morbidly  increased,  and 
we  were  now  proportionately  inspirited  by  her  appear- 
ance. She  anchored  near  us  to  see  if  she  could  be  of 
any  assistance,  (we  were  aground,)  but,  finding  us  obliged 
to  wait  the  rising  of  the  tide,  got  under  way  again  and 
stood  on  up  the  river.  A  few  days  later  we  reached  the 
city  ourselves,  when  we  received  a  visit  from  the  consul, 
who  confirmed  our  worst  fears  in  regard  to  the  Porpoise. 

159 


160  WE    PREPARE    FOR    WAR. 

There  seemed  to  be  uo  doubt  as  to  the  truth  of  the 
rumoilr.  Still,  we  found  it  difficult  to  give  up  our  cou- 
fideuce  in  her  as  a  sea-boat,  or  in  her  officers  as  skilful 
and  able  men.  We  remained  in  a  painful  state  of  sus- 
pense for  months. 

"We  now  found  it  necessary  to  put  the  Hancock  into 
dock  before  we  could  ascertain  what  affected  the  pro- 
peller, and  by  the  time  she  got  out  again  the  month  of 
December  was  passed  and  we  found  ourselves  commenc- 
ing the  year  of  1855.  We  were  no  sooner  ready  for  sea 
than  a  report  reached  Shanghae  that  an  English  opium- 
clipper  was  blockaded  by  pirates  in  the  Wan-chew  River ; 
and,  as  it  was  only  slightly  out  of  our  route  to  the  island 
of  Formosa,  the  captain  readily  complied  with  the  wdsh 
of  the  merchants  that  we  should  touch  there  on  our  way 
and  rescue  her  from  their  clutches.  We  consequently 
hurried  our  departure,  and,  after  fighting  many  imagi- 
nary battles  to  get  our  hands  in  for  "deeds  of  blood  and 
valour,"  we  arrived  at  the  spot  and  found  that  the  pirates 
had  retired  and  that  the  schooner  had  gone  to  sea  some 
days  since.  We  now  reworked  our  way  through  the 
numerous  sand-banks  that  guard  the  mouth  of  that 
rarely-visited  river,  and  shaped  a  course  for  Keilung,  a 
harbour  in  the  northern  end  of  the  unknown  island  of 
Formosa.  But,  before  I  leave  Wan-chew,  let  me  say  a 
word  in  regard  to  the  "sensation"  which  the  "Old 
John"  created  among  the  crowds  of  astonished  Chinese 
who  lined  the  banks  of  that  river  to  see  a  vessel  sailing 
head  to  wind  and  current  without  any  apparent  motive- 
power. 

Persons  who  arc  in  the  daily  habit  of  seeing  a  balloon 


WE   ASTONISH    THE    NATIVES.  Id 

ascend,  of  wondering  over  the  strange  secrets  of  electricity, 
or  of  witnessing  tlie  silent  progress  of  a  propeller-steamer, 
will  have  to  reflect  a  moment  before  they  can  appreciate 
the  feeling  of  alarmed  curiosity  which  fills  the  semi- 
civilized  or  savage  breast  when  for  the  first  time  it 
beholds  such  apparent  miracles.  In  the  present  case,  we 
had  our  sails  furled,  were  steaming  with  anthracite  coal, 
which  made  no  smoke,  and  were  running  through  a 
strong  current  and  against  a  light  breeze.  There  was 
nothing  in  the  world  to  give  ignorant  minds  the  slightest 
clue  as  to  how  we  got  ahead :  they  were  as  much  con- 
founded as  we  would  have  been  to  have  seen  an  ox-cart 
going  up-hill  by  itself.  As  we  thus  ascended  the  winding 
river,  the  villages  which  teemed  along  its  banks  poured 
forth  their  excited  inhabitants  to  witness  the  strange  spec- 
tacle,— men,  women,  and  children,  hurrying  to  the  water's 
edge,  watching  our  mysterious  progress,  and  then  return- 
ing slowly  to  their  homes  as  if  they  had  seen  enough  to 
think  about  for  the  next  week.  After  we  had  anchored, 
they  approached  us  warily  in  their  boats,  refusing  to 
come  alongside,  and  keeping  their  eyes  on  our  every 
movement.  They  were  evidently  in  doubt  as  to  our 
terrestrial  origin,  or  rather  as  to  that  of  the  Old  John. 
Finally,  we  landed  at  a  village  abreast  of  our  anchorage, 
and  they  began  to  get  more  reconciled,  closing  around 
us  in  great  numbers  and  pointing  to  the  ship  in  con- 
tinued wonder.  They  were  evident!}'  seeking  informa- 
tion, which  we  could  only  impart  by  signs. 

While  entering  this  river,  we  picked  up  a  fishing-boat 
and  compelled  one  of  its  owners  to  pilot  us  in ;  and  it 

was  he  who  had  anchored  us  off  this  village,  declaring 

11 


162  HIGH   LIVING. 

that  we  could  not  get  any  higher  up  on  account  of 
sunken  rocks,  the  captain  having  been  anxious  to  anchor 
near  the  principal  town.  We  coukl  see  from  this  village 
quite  a  large  walled  town  which  was  between  us  and  the 
larger  city,  and  Hartman  and  Williams  that  evening 
climbed  its  wall  and  promenaded  its  streets,  to  the  in- 
finite terror  of  the  female  and  juvenile  portions  of  the 
population.  They  described  it  as  being  very  thinly  in- 
habited,— evidently  an  old  city  that  was  being  gradually 
deserted.  The  latitude  of  this  river  is  about  28°  N.,  and 
its  longitude  120°  38'  E.  It  will  never  probably  be  any 
thing  more  than  a  haunt  for  pirates. 

We  had  a  fine  run  to  Keilung,  where  we  fell  in  with 
the  Cooper, — she  having  sailed  direct  for  that  port, — and 
where  we  found  quite  a  snug  anchorage  for  one  or  two 
sail.  We  also  found  ducks,  vegetables,  and  oranges 
quite  plentiful,  the  latter  being  as  fine  as  any  I  ever  ate. 
We  had  also  been  told  of  the  existence  of  coal  a  few 
miles  in  the  interior;  but,  upon  applying  to  the  authori- 
ties, (such  as  they  were.)  they  gave  us,  as  usual,  the  most 
evasive  answers.  The  captain  was,  however,  determined 
to  get  some  specimens;  so  he  and  one  or  two  of  the  mess, 
with  his  Chinese  steward  as  interpreter,  started  back  into 
the  country  to  discover  the  deposit.  They  were  soon 
encountered  by  two  men,  who  offered  to  guide  them  to 
the  spot,  provided  they  might  be  allowed  to  go  to  Hong- 
Kong  in  the  ship ;  and,  as  it  seemed  a  simple  case  of  buy- 
ing and  selling,  the  captain  consented.  They  told  him 
that  there  was  a  law  forbidding  any  one  to  show  the  way 
to  the  coal-mine,  upon  pain  of  death;  but,  upon  our 
arrival  at  Hong-Kong,  we  learned   that  Keiluug  was  a 


THE    MAX-EATERS   OF   FORMOSA.  163 

penal  settlement  of  the  Chinese,  and  that  those  two  fel- 
lows were  convicts  who  thus  escaped  their  punishment. 

I  will  say  nothing  more  about  Formosa  for  the  present. 
We  left  its  shores  about  as  wise  as  we  were  upon  our  ar- 
rival, and  it  was  not  until  our  second  visit  that  we  picked 
up  what  little  information  now  exists  upon  the  files  of  the 
Expedition  in  regard  to  it.  Upon  leaving  Keilung  for 
Hong-Kong  we  kept  along  the  east  coast  of  the  island,  in 
the  vain  search  for  a  reported  harbour.  There  was  nothing 
to  be  seen  but  an  iron-bound  coast  with  range  after  range 
of  lofty  mountains  lifting  themselves  above  the  heavy 
surf  that  broke  along  the  entire  beach.  One  day  we 
thought  we  had  discovered  it :  we  saw  ahead  the  smoke  of 
distant  villages  rising  back  of  a  bight  in  the  coast  which 
looked  very  much  like  a  harbour;  but,  upon  approaching 
it,  we  found  ourselves  mistaken.  We,  however,  lowered 
a  boat  and  attempted  to  land,  but  the  surf  was  breaking 
so  furiously  that  it  would  have  been  madness  to  have 
entered  it.  Besides,  the  beach  was  crowded  by  naked 
and  excited  savages,  whom  it  was  generally  reported 
were  cannibals,  and  into  whose  company  we  should  con- 
sequently have  preferred  being  thrown  with  reliable  arms 
in  our  hands.  The  two  convicts,  whom  the  captain  had 
taken  in  the  boat  to  interpret  in  case  of  his  being  able  to 
land,  became  so  frightened  at  the  savage  appearance  of 
those  reported  man-eaters,  that  they  went  on  their  knees 
to  him,  protesting,  through  the  steward,  that  the  islanders 
had  eaten  many  of  their  countrymen,  and  that  if  he  went 
any  nearer  they  would  do  the  same  by  him  and  the 
boat's  crew.  Finding  it  impossible  to  pass  the  surf,  the 
boat  returned  on  board,  and  w^e  squared  away  for  Hong- 


164  THE    END    OF   HOPE. 

Kong,  where  we  arnved  on  the  13th  of  February,  1855, 
and  found  the  Vincennes  alone  at  her  moorings.  We 
looked  with  straining  eyes  and  sinking  hearts  for  the 
well-known  hull  and  spars  of  the  devoted  brig.  They 
were  nowhere  to  be  seen.  "We  sighed  and  closed  our 
glasses  with  a  shudder.     The  Porpohe  was  lost. 

We  found  that  the  Vincennes  herself  had  passed 
through  an  unusually  severe  cruise  during  our  separa- 
tion ;  and  as  the  unfortunate  Porpoise  had  kept  company 
with  her  up  to  a  certain  time,  since  when  she  has  not 
been  heard  of,  I  make  the  following  extract  from  a  letter 
lately  received  from  Lieutenant  John  M.  Brooke,  of  the 
Vincennes,  in  regard  to  the  manner  in  which  they  sepa- 
rated, &c. ;  and  I  am  sorry  to  say  to  the  friends  of  those 
who  were  lost  in  her,  that  this  extract  contains  all  we 
know  of  her  melancholy  end : — 

"  The  facts  relating  to  the  Vincennes  and  the  Porpoise, 
and  the  fate  of  the  latter,  are  simply  these : — 

"The  two  vessels  in  company  were  struggling  with  the 
northeast  monsoons  in  the  China  Sea.  Occasionally  the 
veering  wind  and  changing  barometer  indicated  the  pas- 
sage of  a  cyclone :  the  increasing  fury  of  the  wind  and 
these  indications  governed  the  courses  of  the  vessels.  At 
length  they  found  themselves  between  Formosa  and  the 
main,  and,  during  the  night  of  the  20th  of  September, 
they  held  on  near  mid-channel ;  but  in  the  morning  the 
Vincennes,  then  to  leeward,  bore  up  for  the  Bashee  pas- 
sage. It  was  presumed  that  the  Porpoise  would  follow. 
While  the  Vincennes  was  thus  running  before  the  wind, 
towing  hawsers  astern  to  break  the  sea  should  she  cross 
the  banks,  the  Poi'poise  was  enveloped  in  a  driving  mist 


THE    LAST    OF   THE    PORPOISE.  165 

and  lost  to  sight.  This  separation  was  regarded  as  of 
little  moment,  for  the  brig  was  well  manned,  and  her  offi- 
cers, individually  and  collectively,  were  men  of  the  first 
ability  and  courage  : — you  knew  them  all. 

"It  is  generally  understood  by  seamen  that  sound  ves- 
sels are  safer  alone  than  in  company;  for  the  whole  at- 
tention of  the  commander  may  be  devoted  to  the  care  of 
his  vessel  without  those  modifications  of  plan  required 
when  acting  in  concert.  In  those  seas  the  obscurity  of 
the  night  rendered  it  difficult  to  distinguish  light,  and 
the  sound  of  cannon  would  be  lost  in  the  roaring  of  the 
winds  and  waves.  Therefore,  neither  sui'prise  nor  special 
anxiety  was  experienced  on  that  occasion. 

"The  Vincennes,  having  passed  the  Bashee  passage, 
entered  the  Pacific,  and,  until  her  arrival  at  the  Bonin 
Islands,  experienced  fine  weather.  The  arrival  of  the 
Porpoise — a  dull  sailer — was  daily  expected.  Meanwhile 
there  came  on,  at  night,  one  of  those  characteristic  storms 
of  the  Bonins, — a  hurricane  or  cyclone.  It  came  unhe- 
ralded, except  by  the  slightly-increased  sound  of  the  surf 
on  the  outer  rocks ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  fitful  gusts 
that,  by  their  peculiar  tone,  are  recognised  by  those  who 
have  heard  it,  swept  from  the  hills  over  the  ship,  that  we 
were  aware  of  its  proximity.  iSTearly  shut  in  by  moun- 
tains, the  Vincennes,  with  lower  yards  and  topmasts  struck 
and  four  anchors  down,  trembled  from  the  vibration  of  the 
masts  and  rigging.  There  was  no  shrill  whistling  of  the 
wind,  but  a  deep  and  hollow  roar;  the  crests  of  the  waves 
were  caught  up,  and  whitened  the  air  with  drift.  The 
falling  barometer  and  the  veering  wind  presented  all  the 
indications  of  a  cyclone  sweeping  toward  the  north.    It 


166  CONJECTURES. 

was  remarked  by  the  ablest  seameu  of  the  Vincennes 
that  she,  good  sea-boat  as  she  was,  would  scarcely  have 
survived  the  hurricane  at  sea. 

"In  the  confined  China  Sea — near  the  Pescadores,  the 
wind  blowing  toward  the  coast  of  China — it  would  be 
singular  indeed  if  no  vestige  of  a  ship  wrecked  or  lost 
there  should  be  found.  It  is  not  probable  that  the 
Porpoise  was  lost  until  she  reached  the  vicinity  of  the 
Bouins. 

"She  bore  the  character  of  a  good  sea-boat,  but  was 
short  and  deep  in  the  waist,  therefore  liable  to  broach  to, 
or  to  be  brought  by  the  lee, — to  fill  and  founder." 

And  this  is  all !  This  gloomy  account,  similar  to  that 
which  was  laid  before  us  on  our  arrival  at  Hong-Kong, 
contains  in  its  hopeless  lines  all  that  is  known  of  the  fate 
of  the  time-worn  old  brig  and  her  crew  of  near  a  hun- 
dred souls.  The  subsequent  search  which  was  under- 
taken by  the  Hancock,  and  in  which  we  persisted  at  the 
imminent  risk  of  our  ship  and  lives,  resulted  in  nothing 
save  disappointment,  danger,  and  loss  of  time.  That 
dense  and  driving  mist  which  enveloped  her  in  its  shroud- 
like embrace  may  have  veiled  from  the  curious  eyes  of 
her  receding  consort  an  unequal  conflict,  waged  between 
man's  godlike  brain  on  the  one  side  and  the  power  of 
the  elements  and  some  untoward  accident  on  the  other; 
or  she  may  have  followed  the  stormy  path  of  her  more 
fortunate  consort,  and  perished  within  a  day's  sail  of 
the  Bonin  Islands.  Certain  it  is  that  no  ordinary  combi- 
nation of  circumstances  would  have  sufiiced  to  bring 
about  her  uncertain  fate.  That  brig,  and  the  man  who 
controlled  her  slightest  movement  with  the  experienced 


WE    LOSE    A    VALUABLE    OFFICER.  167 

will  of  liis  well-balanced  brain,  had  now  rested  after  the 
labours  of  their  perilous  cruise,  had  not  some  insur- 
mountable danger  crossed  their  path,  against  which  all 
human  precautions  were  of  no  avail.  Peace — eternal 
peace — be  to  the  glorious  manes  of  those  who  share  her 
unknown  grave,  and  to  those  mourning  friends  whose 
dearest  hopes,  whose  fond  longings  for  an  earthly  re- 
union, are  blighted  by  the  withering  evidence  of  time's 
onward  roll !     There  is  no  more  room  for  hope. 

We  were  now  once  more  in  Hong-Kong, — the  Vin- 
cennes,  ourselves,  and  the  Cooper.  Further  changes 
soon  began  to  be  talked  of  as  to  the  officering  of  the 
different  vessels, —  the  result  of  the  wasting  hand  of 
disease,  which  was  by  this  time  thinning  our  ranks.  We 
had  buried  Lieutenant  Hunter  in  the  vast  burial-ground 
of  Fou-chow-fou,  and  now  Acting-master  R.  R.  Carter, 
of  the  Vincennes,  was  lying  dangerously  ill  at  the 
house  of  a  friend  on  shore.  He  was  partially  restored 
to  health  after  a  protracted  illness,  and  finally  succeeded 
in  reaching  his  Virginia  home ;  but  he  never  again  did 
any  duty  in  the  Expedition,  nor  will  he,  I  fear,  ever 
regain  his  former  strength.  After  the  loss  of  the  Por- 
poise, the  detachment  of  this  accomplished  officer  was 
the  greatest  misfortune  that  the  Expedition  experienced. 

This  vacancy  on  board  the  flag-ship  caused  Lieu- 
tenant Russell  to  be  ordered  to  fill  it;  and  Lieutenant 
McCullom,  having  grown  tired  of  keeping  guard  off  Can- 
ton, in  the  Kennedy,  was  induced  to  join  the  Hancock  in 
his  place.  He  was  my  senior  officer,  and  as  such  un- 
willingly relieved  me  of  the  combined  duties  of  first 
lieutenant,  boatswain,  and  gunner  of  a  shaky  old  steamer 


168  PLANS  FOR  THE  FUTURE. 

at  which  people  looked  and  wondered  that  she  was  still 
afloat. 

"We  had  all  been  so  roughly  handled  during  our  late 
cruise  that  considerable  time  was  now  required  for  re- 
pairs; and  while  these  were  going  on  a  third  set  of 
astronomical  observations  were  obtained  by  Lieutenant 
Brooke,  the  astronomer  of  the  expedition.  They  were 
culminations  of  the  moon,  and  the  mean  of  the  three 
sets  was  satisfactory  in  the  extreme.  Finally,  the  spring 
set  in,  and  found  us  again  ready  for  sea;  and,  in  order 
to  run  over  as  much  space  as  possible,  each  vessel  was 
assigned  a  separate  track. 

The  Vincennes  was  to  proceed,  via  the  Bonin  Islands, 
to  Loo-choo,  the  Cooper  to  take  in  some  islands  to  the 
northward  and  eastward  of  Formosa  on  her  way  to  the 
same  port,  and  the  Hancock  to  search  for  the  Porpoise 
in  the  Formosa  Channel,  to  survey  the  southwest  and 
east  coast  of  that  island,  and  then  join  the  other  two 
vessels  at  their  port  of  destination.  From  thence  we 
were  to  proceed  by  different  routes  to  the  port  of  Hako- 
dadi,  island  of  eJesso, —  the  Cooper  going  through  the 
Japan  Sea,  and  the  Vincennes  and  Hancock  through  a 
long  chain  of  islands,  touching  at  Simoda,  island  of 
Nipon,  and  finally  joining  the  Cooper  at  Hakodadi. 
From  thence  the  Vincennes  was  to  pass  along  the  east 
coast  of  Kamtschatka  and  Asia,  through  Behring's  Straits, 
and  into  the  Arctic;  the  Cooper  was  to  examine  the 
Kurile,  the  Fox,  and  the  Aleutian  Islands;  and  the 
Hancock  to  survey  the  entire  circumference  of  the 
Okotsk  Sea,  the  great  centre  of  the  American  whalers. 
It  was  understood  that  tlie  middle  of  October  was  to 


SEARCH    FOR    THE    PORPOISE.  169 

find  us  again  united  in  the  harbour  of  San  Francisco, 
California. 

It  was  another  stormy  season  as  we  again  put  to  se? 
from  Hong-Kong,  and  we  had  a  most  uncomfortable 
time  working  up  against  strong  northerly  gales.  As 
already  observed,  we  were  bound  to  the  Pescadore 
Islands,  and  thence  around  the  south  cape  of  Formosa. 
"We  were  hunting  for  the  missing  brig,  or  for  a  stranded 
plank  or  floating  cask  that  should  tell  us  of  her  fate. 
We  had  little  or  no  data  to  assist  us  in  this  search.  A 
black  spot  pricked  upon  the  chart  of  the  China  Sea  by 
Commander  Rodgers  was  our  only  guide.  "It  was 
there  we  left  her,"  said  he:  "go  and  seek  our  brother- 
officers,  and  may  Heaven  prosper  your  search!"  "We 
arrived  at  the  harbour  of  Makung  on  the  26th  of  March, 
and  remained  there  two  days.  Makung  is  the  largest 
settlement  of  the  Pescadores,  and  is  inhabited  by 
Chinese.  We  communicated  with  them  through  our 
Chinese  servants,  could  hear  nothing  of  the  Porpoise, 
and  left  for  the  coast  of  Formosa.  Upon  sighting  the 
latter,  we  were  overtaken  by  a  heavy  gale,  against  which 
we  tried  to  steam,  but,  finding  ourselves  near  founder- 
ing, put  up  the  helm  and  ran  down  along  the  land 
toward  a  village  this  side  of  the  south  cape.  As  we 
closed  in  with  the  land  the  wind  seemed  to  head  us 
off,  and  we  were  glad  to  reach  our  destination  without 
being  blown  to  sea. 

And  now,  before  I  turn  to  my  journal  for  a  few  pages 
in  regard  to  our  experience  while  coasting  around  this 
island,  let  me  enlighten  the  reader  as  much  as  possible 


170  HISTORY    OF    FORMOSA. 

in  regard  to  it  from  other  sources.  The  Encyclopaedia 
Britannica  says, — 

"The  Dutch  at  an  early  period  established  a  settle- 
ment on  this  island. 

"  In  1625,  the  viceroy  of  the  Philippine  Islands  sent  an 
expedition  against  Formosa,  with  a  view  of  expelling  the 
Dutch.  It  was  unsuccessful.  .  .  .  About  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  it  afforded  a  retreat  to  twenty 
or  thirty  thousand  Chinese  from  the  fury  of  the  Tartar 
conquest.  ...  In  1G53,  a  conspiracy  of  the  Chinese 
against  the  Dutch  was  discovered  and  suppressed ;  and, 
soon  after  this,  Coxinga,  the  governor  of  the  maritime 
Chinese  province  of  Tehichiang,  applied  for  permission 
to  retire  to  the  island,  which  was  refused  by  the  Dutch 
governor ;  on  which  he  fitted  out  an  expedition,  consist- 
ing of  six  hundred  vessels,  and  made  himself  master  of 
the  town  of  Formosa  and  the  adjacent  country.  The 
Dutch  were  then  allowed  to  embark  and  leave  the 
island.  .  .  .  Coxinga  afterward  engaged  in  a  war  with 
the  Chinese  and  Dutch,  in  which  he  was  defeated  and 
slain.  But  they  were  unable  to  take  possession  of  the 
island,  which  was  bravely  defended  by  the  posterity 
of  Coxinga ;  and  it  was  not  till  the  year  1683  that  the 
island  was  voluntaril}'  surrendered  by  the  reigning  prince 
to  the  Emperor  of  China.  ...  In  1805,  through  the 
weakness  of  the  Chinese  government,  the  Ladrone 
pirates  had  acquired  possession  of  a  great  part  of  the 
southwest  coast." 

The  Encyclopa}dia  Americana  says, — 

"  The  island  is  about  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  in 
length  from  north  to  south,  and  sixty  from  east  to  west 


THE    COUNT   DE    BENYOWSKY.  171 

in  its  broadest  part,  but  greatly  contracted  at  each 
extremity.  That  part  of  the  island  which  the  Chinese 
possess  presents  extensive  and  fertile  plains,  watered  by 
a  great  number  of  rivulets  that  fall  from  the  eastern 
mountains.  Its  air  is  pure  and  wholesome,  and  the 
earth  produces  in  abundance  corn,  rice,  and  most  other 
kinds  of  grain.  Most  of  the  India  fruits  are  found  here, — 
such  as  oranges,  bananas,  pineapples,  guavas,  cocoanuts, 
— and  part  of  those  of  Europe,  particularly  peaches,  apri- 
cots, figs,  grapes,  chestnuts,  pomegranates,  watermelons, 
&c.  Tobacco,  sugar,  pepper,  camphor,  and  cinnamon, 
are  also  common.  The  capital  of  Formosa  is  Taiouan, — 
a  name  which  the  Chinese  give  to  the  whole  island." 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing  extracts  from  standard  au- 
thority, we  have  a  most  marvellous  account  of  this  island 
from  the  pen  of  Mauritius  Augustus,  Count  deBenyowsky, 
a  Polish  refugee  from  Siberian  exile,  who  visited  its  east 
coast  in  1790  in  a  small  armed  vessel  containing  about 
one  hundred  men.  The  account  by  this  nobleman  is 
interesting  in  the  extreme,  but  unfortunately  he  is  guilty 
of  one  gross  and  palpable  falsehood,  which  necessarily 
throws  a  shade  of  distrust  on  his  entire  narrative.  He 
speaks  "  of  anchoring  in  several  fine  harbours  on  the  east 
coast;"  whereas  we  of  the  Hancock  searched  in  vain  for 
any  such. place  of  refuge  along  that  entire  shore.  On  the 
north  and  west  coasts  they  are  quite  plentiful. 

After  anchoring  in  one  of  these  "fine  harbours,"  the 
count  goes  on  to  give  us  an  idea  of  the  people  who  re- 
ceived him :  they  were  Indians,  savages,  and  very  fierce, 
— so  much  so  that  they  soon  attempted  the  murder  of  a 
party  that  had  visited  their  village.     He   now  killed  a 


172  A    REFRESHING    VIEW. 

great  many  of  them,  got  up  his  anchor,  and  went  to  an 
adjoining  harbour,  where  he  was  most  graciously  received 
for  having  slain  so  many  of  their  enemies  of  the  place 
they  had  just  left.  Ilere  he  fell  in  with  a  prince,  who 
persuaded  him  into  an  alliance  against  another  prince, 
and  thus  they  fought  for  some  time.  Finally,  he  drags 
himself  from  the  island,  much  to  the  distress  of  the  prince 
his  ally,  who  loads  him  down  with  gold  and  silver.  It  is 
impossible  to  read  the  count's  narrative  and  say  what  he 
did  see.  He  was  evidently  a  blood-relative  of  the  Mun- 
chausen family. 

And  now,  having  shown  what  others  say  in  regard  to 
Formosa,  let  us  return  to  the  "old  John,"  whom  we  left 
at  anchor  under  shelter  of  its  west  coast,  at  the  close  of  a 
stormy  day.  Here  is  what  my  journal  says  in  regard  to 
our  arrival,  and  to  what  we  saw  and  did  upon  the  follow- 
ing days : — 

"We  could  see  nothing  that  night  save  an  extensive 
stretch  of  Avhite  sand-beach  backed  by  a  sloping  green, 
in  the  rear  of  which  we  imagined  we  saw  a  village  slum- 
bering under  the  deepening  shadows  of  a  high  range  of 
mountains.  But  this  village  existed,  many  said,  only  in 
the  vivid  imaginations  of  a  few,  and  it  was  not  until  dark- 
ness had  become  sufficiently  dark  to  reflect  its  many 
lights  that  the  fact  was  generally  admitted.  The  next 
mornings  however,  we  had  a  most  refreshing  view  spread 
out  before  us, — green  slopes  and  waving  fields  of  grain, 
broken  here  and  there  by  extensive  tracts  of  table-land, 
over  which  we  could  see  the  cattle  roving  in  their  lazy 
search  for  the  more  tender  mouthfuls  of  the  abundant 
srrass. 


HIGH    CONDITION    OF    BUST-PROOF.  173 

"It  is  a  beautiful  sight  for  auy  one  to  look  upon — these 
landscapes  composed  of  sloping  lawns,  waving  fields, 
grazing  cattle,  a  village  here  and  there,  and  the  moun- 
tain-sides glistening  with  the  sunlit  spray  of  rushing 
waterfalls.  But  when  to  all  this  is  added  the  fact  of  one 
being  just  from  the  sea,  and  gazing  upon  lands  seldom 
beheld  by  the  eye  of  civilization,  it  becomes  a  scene  well 
calculated  to  drive  the  blood  through  the  veins  with 
increased  velocity.  One  feels  like  rushing  wildly  through 
those  waving  fields,  and  throwing  his  salt-impregnated 
frame  into  the  mountain-stream,  or  rolling  childlike 
upon  the  green  grass,  and  feeling  himself  away  from  the 
sea  at  last. 

"  This  was  all  very  beautiful,  very  desirable,  but  unfor- 
tunately just  then  quite  unattainable.  For  the  gale  still 
raged  through,  over,  and  around  it  all,  most  effectually 
preventing  our  'rushing  into  the  mountain-stream  or 
rolling  upon  the  green  grass.'  So  we  amused  ourselves 
by  overhauling  our  guns,  which  had  been  pronounced 
perfectly  ready  for  service  the  night  before,  adding  more 
ammunition  to  our  already  large  supply,  resharpening 
our  bowie-knives,  which  had  always  been  like  razors,  and 
in  the  various  other  useless  though  ingenious  occupations 
of  restless  minds.  'Old  bust-proof  looked  more  service- 
able that  day  than  I  ever  saw  him  before. 

"During  the  night  the  gale  fortunately  abated,  and  the 
next  morning  bust-proof  and  his  master,  several  others 
of  the  mess,  and  myself,  ventured  into  our  best-pulling 
boat  and  struck  out  boldly  for  the  beach.  It  was  a  hard 
and  wet  pull;  but  something  over  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  sufficed  to  cross  the  stormy  half-mile  that  separated 


174  DEGENERATE   POSTERITY   OF   COXINGA. 

US,  and,  as  the  keel  grated  witli  welcome  harshness  on  the 
sand,  we  felt  ourselves  once  more  on  shore.  What  if 
the  boat  icas  half  full  of  water,  and  we  like  half-drowned 
rats  ?  we  were  still  on  shore. 

"We  landed  upon  this  strange  and  crowded  beach 
without  fear,  simply  from  the  fact  that,  while  yet  some 
distance  off",  we  had  readily  recognised  the  natives  as 
Chinese,  and,  although  they  were  all  armed  with  either 
the  matchlock  or  bow  and  arrow,  we  knew  too  much 
of  their  race  to  anticipate  violence.  This  crowd,  which 
received  us  in  a  most  noisy  manner,  was  composed  of 
men,  women,  and  children, — the  males  of  almost  every 
age  being  armed.  We  had  taken  the  precaution  to  bring 
one  of  our  Chinese  mess-boys  with  us ;  but,  their  language 
being  neither  the  Mandarin,  Canton,  or  Shanghae  dialect, 
he  at  first  found  great  difficulty  in  making  himself 
understood.  After  a  while,  however,  by  the  aid  of  the 
few  words  common  to  each  and  a  fearful  amount  of 
violent  pantomime  on  our  part,  we  succeeded  in  exchang- 
ing ideas  with  tolerable  freedom. 

"From  all  that  we  could  learn  from  them  in  this  way, 
it  seems  that  they  exist  in  a  state  of  perpetual  warfare 
with  their  savage  neighbours  of  the  east  coast.  The 
island  being  very  narrow  there,  the  latter  find  no  difii- 
culty  in  crossing  the  mountain-ridge  which,  like  a  huge 
backbone,  divides  the  two  territories,  capturing  cattle, 
making  prisoners,  burning  isolated  habitations,  and  then 
retreating  into  their  mountain-fastnesses,  where  tlicy  are 
never  followed  by  tlieir  unwarlike  victims.  Thus  we 
always  found  the  latter  armed  with  sword,  matchlock,  or 
bow  and  arrow,  and  confining  themselves  strictly  to  their 


HARTMAN   WHISTLES   A    POPULAR   AIR.  175 

fields  and  pasture-grounds.  "Whenever  we  evinced  a  dis- 
position to  ascend  the  bushy  sides  of  the  neighbouring 
hills,  they  became  greatly  alarmed,  caught  hold  of  our 
clothes,  threw  themselves  in  our  paths,  and  made  signs 
to  us  that  our  throats  would  be  certainly  cut  and  we 
roasted  for  supper  by  bad  men  who  w^ere  very  strong  and 
fierce  and  who  wore  large  rings  in  their  ears.  "VYe  did 
not  know  what  to  make  of  all  this  at  first;  but  Hartman, 
who  had  wandered  off  by  himself  in  search  of  snipe, 
rejoined  us  shortly  before  dark,  and  opened  our  eyes. 

"Having  nnconsciously  wandered  over  the  low  land 
and  ascended  a  neighbouring  elevation,  he  had  seated 
himself  upon  a  fragment  of  rock,  and  was  admiring  the 
view  which  opened  before  him,  when  his  ear  suddenly 
caught  a  sound  as  of  some  animal  making  its  way  cau- 
tiously through  the  bushes.  He  turned  quickly,  and  saw 
a  party  of  three,  whom  he  had  no  difficulty  in  recog- 
nising as  'bad  men  who  wore  large  rings  in  their  ears.' 

"Here  was  a  fix  for  our  innocent  sportsman  :  he  must 
either  retire  with  an  imaginary  tail  between  his  legs,  or 
face  boldly  the  unlooked-for  danger.  Fortunately,  he 
was  a  man  of  nerve,  and  was  moreover  armed  with  a 
shot-gun,  bowie-knife,  and  revolver.  Choosing,  therefore, 
the  latter  alternative,  he  arose  with  a  great  air  of  non- 
she-lan-cy,  (as  I  once  heard  the  word  pronounced  by  an 
American  who  had  been  to  Paris,)  and  advanced  to  the 
nearest,  a  tall,  fine-looking  fellow,  who  rested  upon  his 
bow  and  fixed  his  gaze  curiously  upon  him.  Hartman 
says  that  he  whistled  with  considerable  success  portions  of 
a  popular  air  as  he  thus  went,  as  it  were,  into  the  lion's 
mouth,  but  never  before  felt  such  a  longing  to  be  safely  on 


176  THE    "red-man"    in   FORMOSA, 

the  distant  decks  of  the  much-abused  'old  John,'  He 
soon  joined  this  princelj-looking  savage,  and  as  the  others 
drew  near  he  made  a  careful  but  hurried  survey  of  their 
personal  appearance,  exchanged  a  Mexican  dollar  for  the 
bow  and  arrow  of  one  of  them,  evidently  against  the  will 
of  the  surprised  owner,  and  then  leisurely  retraced  his 
way  until  an  intervening  clump  of  trees  enabled  him  with 
safety  to  call  upon  his  legs  to  do  their  duty.  It  is  need- 
less to  remark  that  the  vocal  music  and  the  air  of  '  non- 
she-lan-cy'  expired  in  each  other's  arms  at  this  point.  He 
ran  for  a  mile  or  more  before  evincing  the  slightest  curi- 
osity to  know  if  he  was  followed." 

He  described  them  as  being  of  large  stature,  fine 
forms,  copper-coloured,  high  cheek-bones,  heavy  jaws, 
coarse  black  hair  reaching  to  the  shoulders,  and  boasting 
no  clothing  save  the  maro,  and  a  light  cotton  cloth  over 
the  shoulders, — very  much  like  our  ISTorth  American  In- 
dians, he  thought.  'No  wonder  that  such  a  miserable  race 
as  the  Chinese  should  hold  them  in  dread :  in  fact,  the 
only  wonder  is  that  they  have  the  courage  to  remain  on 
the  same  island.  I  suppose  that  our  innocent  sportsman 
is  the  first  member  of  civilization  who  has  had  a  close 
view  of  these  reputed  cannibals  since  Benyowsky,  the 
Polish  count,  cruised  along  their  shelterless  shores  in 
1790,  since  which  time  they  have  been  more  out  of  the 
world  even  than  the  Japanese.  These  singularly-cap- 
tured bow  and  arrows  are  now  in  the  collection  of  the 
Expedition. 

The  setting  sun  looked  upon  us  as  we  returned  on 
board,  and  before  he  had  again  shone  on  those  sloping 
greens  we  were  well  on  our  way  around  the  south  point 


UXSUCCESSFUL    ATTEMPTS    TO    LAND.  177 

of  the  island,  in  search  of  a  landing  among  the  savages 
in  their  own  country.  This,  I  regret  to  say,  we  never 
found,  the  whole  east  coast  being  one  continued  line  of 
foaming  breakers,  that  carried  death  upon  their  rolling 
crests  to  every  thing  like  a  boat.  Where  were  the  fine  har- 
bours of  the  Count  de  Benyowsky  ?  The  roaring  of  the  surf 
was  our  only  answer.  More  than  once,  however,  impelled 
by  our  excessive  curiosity  to  learn  more  of  these  unknown 
people,  did  we  attempt  to  land;  and  more  exciting  at- 
tempts at  shore-going  I  never  participated  in.  Upon  one 
of  these  occasions  we  entered  upon  the  dangerous  trial 
with  two  of  our  best  boats ;  but,  upon  nearly  losing  the 
inner  one,  with  all  who  were  in  her,  we  wisely  returned 
on  board.  We  got  more  than  one  near  view  of  the 
savages,  however,  heard  their  voices,  and  answered  their 
signs ;  but  all  this  only  increased  our  desire  to  know  more 
of  them,  for  now  we  saw  that  they  were  veritable  red 
men;  and  what  were  red  men  doing  on  the  island  of 
Formosa  ? 

As  we  pulled  back  to  the  ship  after  our  narrow  escape, 
we  could  not  but  think  it  providential  that  they  of  the 
inner  boat  had  failed  in  landing  through  the  surf;  for, 
even  had  they  succeeded  in  gaining  the  beach  with  whole 
bones,  their  arms  would  still  have  been  rendered  unser- 
viceable by  salt  water,  and,  had  the  crowd  proved  un- 
friendly, we  in  the  outer  boat  would  certainly  have 
kicked  prudence  overboard  and  pulled  in  to  share  their 
fate;  and  the  probability  is  that  we  should  all  have  "had 
our  throats  cut,  and  our  bodies  roasted  for  supper,  by  '  bad 
men  who  wore  large  rings  in  their  ears.' " 

From  what  I  could  see  over  the  distance  w-hich  sepa- 

12 


178  AN    UNPLEASANT    CONVICTION. 

rated  our  boat  from  the  crowded  bcacli,  I  found  the  pre- 
vious description  of  our  "innocent  sportsman"  substan- 
tiated by  my  own  eyes  and  those  of  others.  We  saw  an 
excited  crowed  of  fine-looking  men  and  women,  copper- 
coloured,  and  possessed  of  the  slightest  possible  amount 
of  clothing, — the  former  boasting  only  a  cloth  tied  around 
the  head,  while  the  latter  had  but  a  thin  loose  garment 
that  seemed  to  gather  around  the  throat  and  extended 
no  farther  than  the  knee.  Some  of  the  men  were  armed 
with  bow  and  arrow,  others  with  very  serviceable-looking 
matchlocks ;  the  women  held  various  articles  in  their 
hands,  probably  for  barter,  and,  as  we  pulled  away  after 
our  narrow  escape,  they  evinced  their  sorrow  and  desire 
to  trade  by  loud  cries  and  the  most  violent  gestures. 
Our  Chinese  boy  had  almost  fainted  from  fright  as  the 
inner  boat  backed  into  the  surf  in  the  attempt  to  land : 
he  could  only  tremble  and  cry  out,  "Dey  eat  man!  dey 
eat  man !"  His  friends  on  the  other  side  had  evidently 
impressed  him  with  that  unpleasant  national  character- 
istic, and  hence  his  fright  when  apparently  about  to  bo 
rolled  helplessly  to  their  feet  by  a  boiling  surf. 

The  same  day  upon  which  we  made  this  our  last 
attempt  to  land  among  them,  we  steamed  along  up  their 
coast,  keeping  as  close  as  was  prudent, — in  fact  closer, — 
and  examining  with  our  glasses  as  far  back  as  we  could 
see.  In  this  way  we  saw  small  but  apparently  comfort- 
able stone  houses,  neatly-kept  grounds, — what  looked  like 
fruitful  gardens  and  green  fields, — all  being  cultivated  by 
"  Chinese  prisoners  who  had  not  yet  been  eaten,"  we  were 
told  on  the  other  side ;  or  rather  we  were  told  that  their 


WE   ARRIVE   AT   THE    LOO-CHOO    ISLANDS.  170 

friends,  wlien  captured,  were  made  to  work  until  needed 
for  culinary  purposes. 

We  were  surprised  at  this  air  of  comfort  among  half- 
naked  savages,  and  could  not  but  wonder  how  they  could 
have  built  such  nice-looking  houses,  until  we  finally  con- 
cluded that  their  prisoners  had  been  made  to  turn  their 
hands  to  masonry  as  well  as  gardening.  Thus  ended  our 
second  and  last  visit  to  Formosa,  and  all  that  we  learned 
in  regard  to  it  may  be  condensed  into  a  few  words,  viz.: — 

We  found  it  two  hundred  and  five  miles  long  by  about 
sixty  average  width.  It  runs  N".  by  E.  and  S.  by  W.,  has 
a  range  of  mountains  running  along  its  entire  east  coast, 
and  is  peopled  by  two  different  races  of  men, — Chinese 
and  red  men.  The  former  possess  the  north  and  west 
side  of  the  island,  the  latter  the  east  and  south,  and  they 
exist  in  a  state  of  constant  hostility.  The  country  in  the 
possession  of  the  former  is  undulating  or  low,  that  of  the 
latter  rugged  and  mountainous.  There  are  harbours  on 
the  north  and  west  side,  and  none  on  the  east.  All  else  is 
conjecture.  So  much  for  Formosa  and  its  mysterious  red 
men.  We  continued  our  survey,  and  arrived  at  the  port 
of  Nappa,  island  of  Great  Loo-choo,  on  the  9th  of  April. 
Neither  the  Vincennes  or  the  Cooper  had  yet  arrived. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

SOMETHINO  ABOUT  THE  ANAKIRIMA  GROUP  OF  ISLANDS,  AND  CLIMBING 
HILLS  —  ALSO  A  WORD  IN  REGARD  TO  LOO-CHOOANS,  AND  TWO  MIS- 
SIONARIES WHO  RESIDED  AMONG  THEM,  AND  HOW  IT  WAS  THAT  WE 
LEFT    LOO-CHOO    AND    ARRIVED    IN    JAPAN. 

We  found  considerable  difficulty  in  working  our  way 
through  the  sand-banks  which  guard  the  harbour  of 
Nappa,  as  the  pilots  which  Commodore  Perry  had  made 
the  Government  promise  to  keep  on  the  look-out  did  not 
approach  us  until  we  were  near  the  anchorage.  Then 
two  of  them  boarded  us,  and  begged  by  signs  that  we 
would  not  report  their  neglect  to  the  authorities.  We 
could  not  imagine  for  some  time  what  caused  them  to  be 
so  much  in  earnest :  we  were  subsequently  enlightened 
on  the  subject  by  a  missionary.  Let  me  make  an  extract 
from  my  journal  in  regard  to  our  arrival  at  this  place: — 

"At  4  P.M.  we  anchored  in  this  harbour, — nine  fathoms 
water  and  muddy  bottom.  McCullom,  the  first  lieutenant, 
was  at  once  sent  on  shore  to  see  the  governor,  present 
our  compliments,  and  ask  for  a  quantity  of  wood  with 
which  we  purposed  steaming  while  surveying  a  neigh- 
bouring group  of  islands.  Our  coal  is  already  running 
short ;  and,  remembering  how  well  we  steamed  with  the 
wood  obtained  at  Fou-chow-fou,  we  hope  to  use  no  more 
coal  for  some  time. 

"McCullom  had  scarcely  reached  the  beach  when  a 

180 


VALUE    OF   A   SINGLE    LETTER.  181 

messenger  arrived  from  tlie  governor,  bringing  the  card 
of  his  excellency  and  inquiring  most  affectionately  after 
the  health  of  the  captain.  This  messenger's  name  was 
JSTagador,  and  he  was  a  Loo-choo  gentleman  of  the  first 
water.  His  bearing  was  even  courtly :  he  spoke  in  a  low 
voice,  almost  a  whisper,  and  possessed  a  singular  air  of 
good-breeding  and  cunning  combined.  Our  decks  were 
soon  crowded  by  his  suite,  at  least  thirty  or  forty  in  num- 
ber, and  not  a  word  above  a  whisper  from  any  one  of 
them :  had  the  same  number  of  Chinese  been  on  board 
one  could  not  have  heard  himself  speak. 

"ITagador  spoke  English  well  enough  to  make  himself 
understood ;  and  there  were  several  others  who  knew  a 
few  words.  They  had  learned  it  from  the  missionaries. 
"We  find  two  of  these  latter  here.  One  is  a  member  of 
the  Church  of  England, — an  Englishman  ;  and  the  other 
a  priest  of  that  of  Rome, — a  French  Jesuit.  Singular  to 
say,  the  latter  is  the  last-comer  in  this  case.  They  say 
they  are  treated  kindly  by  the  natives,  but  make  few  con- 
verts :  time,  they  hope,  will  give  them  success.  Those 
Loo-chooans  who  speak  a  little  English  pronounce  it  with 
more  ease  than  any  foreigners  I  ever  saw.  Unlike  the  Chi- 
nese, they  pronounce  the  letter  r  without  difficulty.  I  re- 
member once  being  put  to  the  blush  by  a  Chinese  servant 
at  Macao :  he  was  handing  around  a  dish  of  rice,  and 
attracted  my  attention  by  a  nudge  of  the  elbow,  and 
asking,  'You  wanchy  lice?'  I  did  not  eat  any  rice  that 
day." 

I  shall  dwell  lightly  on  Loo-choo.  Commodore  Perry's 
mammoth  narrative  leav^es  little  to  write  about.  I  will 
only  remark  that  they  are  a  simple  and  inoffensive  people, 


182  THE   "FAIR    sex"    SHUN    US. 

rather  shy,  extremely  cringing  in  manner,  and  super- 
latively cunning.  As  far  as  my  observation  went,  they 
have  no  arms  of  any  description.  In  cunning,  however, 
they  excel  even  the  Japanese.  We  tried  to  get  some 
fresh  provisions,  a  few  potatoes  and  chickens,  from  them, 
but  failed  most  signally.  They  complained  of  poverty, 
drought,  thick  population,  and  finally  let  us  sail  with  two 
goats  which  they  presented  to  us.  Some  of  the  women 
are  very  pretty ;  but,  as  they  invariably  ran,  or  turned 
their  faces  to  the  wall  when  too  high  to  be  climbed, 
we  saw  little  but  their  backs. 

As  soon  as  we  had  filled  our  bunkers  and  decks  with 
wood,  we  steamed  over  to  the  Auakirima  group  of  islands, 
— distant  some  twenty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Kappa, — 
and  spent  two  weeks  in  surveying  them.  During  this 
time  we  were  troubled  more  than  ever  with  our  leaking 
boilers,  having  often  to  keep  the  ship  anchored  several 
days  after  blowing  the  water  out  of  them  to  let  them  get 
cool  enough  for  workmen  to  enter  :  then,  probably,  im- 
mediately after  getting  steam  up  again,  a  new  leak  would 
show  itself  and  the  same  work  have  to  be  repeated.  This 
was  very  harassing  to  the  men  and  detrimental  to  the 
survey ;  but,  like  a  great  many  other  things,  we  had  to 
get  used  to  it,  for  it  continued  till  the  last  day  of  the 
cruise.  This  group  of  islands  having  never  before  been 
even  examined,  I  devote  a  few  lines  to  them.  Their  cen- 
tral latitude  is  26°  12'  K,  longitude  127°  14'  E.,  and 
they  are  thinly  populated  by  a  lower  order  of  Loo-chooans, 
while  a  few  goats  and  deer  range  their  rugged  heights. 
The  unpretending  villages  of  these  poor  people  are  found 
in  various   seaside  coves,  or  snugly  stowed  away  in  re- 


LOOCIiOO     COUNTRr-PEOPLE  — '.ANAKIRIMA     GROUP.I 


THE    ANAKIRIMA    ISLANDS.  183 

treating  ravines  or  concealed  valleys,  as  if  they  were 
anxious  to  remove  as  far  as  possible  from  the  observation 
of  strangers.  Their  year  is  divided  into  the  calm  and 
windy  seasons,  and  it  was  our  fortune  to  visit  them  during 
the  former.  Like  most  of  these  islands,  tliose  of  this 
group  are  of  volcanic  origin,  and  offer  but  slight  promise 
of  agricultural  yield  along  their  steep  and  bare  or  densely- 
wooded  sides.  Some  of  the  valleys,  however,  grow  fine 
rice,  and  a  few  of  the  slopes  were  plantedin  sweet  potato. 
The  largest  of  them  is  not  more  than  three  miles  in  length 
by  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  altogether  they  do  not  number 
over  a  dozen,  including  islets.  Some  of  them  rise  to  an 
elevation  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  abound  with  deadly 
snakes  :  more  than  once  we  made  narrow  escapes  from 
their  fangs  while  climbing  the  precipitous  heights  to 
obtain  angles  for  the  survey.  It  was  any  thing  but 
pleasant  to  climb  those  hills — often  on  one's  hands  and 
knees — and  to  grasp  a  bunch  of  grass  to  secure  your 
footing,  while  under  the  very  next  bunch  you  probably 
saw  a  snake  coiled  snugly  away.  Let  me  relate  an  adven- 
ture of  this  kind:  it  will  give  an  idea  of  the  scenes 
through  which  we  passed  while  thus  "  surveying  around 
the  world." 

I  turn  to  my  journal  for  assistance: — 

"April  14. — I  came  unpleasantly  near  breaking  my 
neck  yesterday.  McCullom,  Games,  and  myself  left  the 
ship  at  an  early  hour  to  scale  three  heights  where  we 
were  to  measure  base  by  sound  and  take  a  round  of 
angles.  Having  landed  at  the  foot  of  that  which  had 
been  assigned  me,  and  seen  the  boat  hauled  up  above 
high-water  mark,  I  left  her  in   charge  of  three  of  the 


184  A  TOUGH    CLIMB. 

crew,  and  took  the  remaining  two  along  to  carry  the  spy- 
glass and  a  signal,  I  myself  having  a  sextant-box  under 
my  arm,  a  revolver  through  my  belt,  and  a  pair  of  six- 
pound  expedition-boots  upon  my  heels.  The  revolver  I 
carried  because  it  was  a  standing  order  to  go  armed,  and 
the  boots  I  dragged  along  because  the  natives  had  warned 
us  of  the  existence  of  snakes  whose  bite  always  put  people 
to  sleep,  which  latter  we  interpreted  as  meaning  death. 

"  Our  road  at  first  was  quite  navigable, — not  that  there 
ims  any  road,  but  simply  from  the  facts  that  the  under- 
growth was  not  absolutely  impassable,  and  that  the  moun- 
tain-side was  sufficiently  sloped  to  let  one  hold  on  without 
resorting  to  his  hands. 

"At  the  end  of  a  half-hour's  tramp,  however,  things 
began  to  look  difiierent.  "We  were  about  half-way  up^  the 
mountain,  the  thick  undergrowth  was  rapidly  giving 
place  to  rock,  ravines,  and  spare  patches  of  grass,  and 
what  earth  there  was  was  of  that  crumbling  nature  that 
makes  a  climber  feel  loell  before  he  trusts  his  weight  on 
the  advancing  foot.  We  came  to  a  halt,  set  our  various 
burdens  on  the  ground  at  our  feet,  drew  a  long  breath, 
and  commenced  looking  around.  It  was  our  first  attempt 
at  climbing  for  some  months,  and  our  knees  already 
began  to  shake,  while  the  upward  prospect  was  more 
stupendous  than  ever. 

"  'How  in  the  world  are  we  ever  to  get  up  to  the  top  of 
that  peak  ?'  we  asked  ourselves,  as  the  eye  searched  in 
vain  for  a  favouring  ridge  or  firmer  foothold. 

"  It  was  a  hard  question, — one  that  could  only  be  an- 
swered by  trial ;  and  so  we  resumed  our  burdens  and 
undertook  its  toilsome  solution. 


HOW    WE    PROGRESSED.  185 

"Another  half-laour  passed,  aud  we  still  gazed  upward 
at  the  point  of  destination,  and  called  another  halt ;  for 
the  friendly  bushes,  whose  firml^^-imbedded  roots  had 
heretofore  oftered  a  secure  hold  for  our  unemployed 
hands,  had  now  given  place  to  thin  clumps  of  grass, 
that  a  good  jerk  would  pull  out,  roots  and  all.  The 
earth,  too,  had  become  even  more  crumbling  and  un- 
reliable as  we  got  higher,  and  the  rocky  ravines  deeper 
and  more  frequent  as  w^ell  as  more  unsafe  of  approach. 
Again  we  continue  the  arduous  ascent,  and  again  call 
a  halt  from  sheer  fatigue.  iSTow,  however,  we  no  longer 
halted  in  company ;  for  I  happened  to  be  ahead  when  my 
knees  failed,  and  the  two  men  no  sooner  saw  me  down 
than  they  followed  my  example.  It  w^as  now  indeed 
difficult  to  see  how  we  were  to  get  along  any  farther ; 
nevertheless,  as  the  entire  work  of  the  daj^  would  be 
injuriously  aifected  did  we  give  it  up,  I  could  not 
well  avoid  making  another  trial.  At  it  we  went,  there- 
fore, with  renewed  vigour;  and  the  way  in  which  we 
progressed  was  after  this  wise  : — 

"I,  having  been  joined  by  Eose  and  Burke,  left  my  box 
with  them  and  climbed  some  feet  higher,  from  whence 
I  reached  down  for  all  the  burdens,  and,  having  de- 
posited them  at  my  feet,  climbed  still  higher,  while 
Rose  and  Burke  ascended  to  the  place  I  had  just  left 
and  passed  them  up  to  the  new  elevation.  This  was 
ticklish  work,  but  it  was  also  the  best  that  w^e  could  do. 
I  look  back  to  it  noio,  and  think  what  a  great  booby  I 
was.  Then  I  regarded  myself  as  a  very  energetic  sur- 
veyor, generously  risking  my  bones  in  the  cause  of 
science. 


186  AN    UNPLEASANT    SITUATION. 

"At  last  u-e  could  get  no  higher,  and,  what  was  worse, 
we  began  to  think  that  we  might  find  some  difiiculty  in 
getting  down  again.  We  couldn't  well  make  up  our 
minds,  however,  to  remain  all  night  upon  the  mountain's 
side,  and  so  procee^led  at  once  to  make  the  attempt.  I 
had  often  heard  the  expression,  'It  is  much  easier  to 
ascend  than  to  descend  a  precipice,'  and  had  frequently 
tested  its  truth  in  my  own  previous  rambles ;  but  I  had 
never  before  glanced  around  me  and  felt  that  there  was 
a  strong  probability  of  my  breaking  my  neck  within  the 
disagreeably-short  space  of  ten  minutes. 

"Each  one  now  selected  his  own  road  down, — Burke 
throwing  his  burden  ahead  some  hundred  yards,  and  thus 
getting  the  use  of  both  hands,  while  I  was  so  unfortunate 
as  to  select  the  worst  road  that  could  have  been  found. 

"I  thought  that,  with  only  one  hand  to  steady  myself, 
I  should  do  better  along  the  rocky  edge  of  a  neighbour- 
ing ravine;  but,  after  some  little  time,  the  projecting 
footholds  of  rock  became  less  frequent,  and  their  places 
were  taken  up  by  the  crumbling  earth  and  loosely-rooted 
bunchos  of  grass.  Still,  as  there  now  remained  but  some 
eight  or  ten  feet  between  me  and  a  bed  of  rocks,  from 
which  the  ground  sloped  off  quite  safely,  I  determined  to 
trust  to  the  light  soil  for  a  partial  support  to  my  foot, 
hoping  to  sustain  much  of  my  weight  from  a  more 
healthy-looking  bunch  of  grass,  Avhose  roots  felt  quite 
solid  under  the  grasp. 

"  It  was  a  fatal  mistake. 

"  The  earth  gave  way  entirely  under  my  cautious  foot. 
I  tried  to  recover  myself  when  too  late,  and  was  left  with 
my  whole  weight    suspended   from   the   grass.     Should 


A    DISAGREEABLE    ALTERNATIVE.  187 

that  also  fail  me  I  should  slide  helplessly  into  the 
rugged  and  apparently-fathomless  fissure,  which  was 
now  just  midway  between  me  and  the  bed  of  rocks, 
which  formed  one  of  its  broken  sides.  There  was  no 
time  to  thinl{,  either,  for  at  any  moment  the  roots  might 
draw,  and  then — what  ? 

"The  rocky  bed  already  alluded  to  was  now  some  four 
feet  lower  than  my  feet,  and  about  five  or  six  feet  to 
the  right.  It  was  full  of  holes,  and  the  sharp-pointed 
rocks  peered  up  here  and  there  through  a  rank  under- 
growth in  which  a  thousand  snakes  might  have  coiled 
themselves  without  being  seen ;  and,  as  we  had  already 
killed  one  most  villanous-looking  rascal  while  sunning 
himself  in  a  similar  locality,  I  shuddered  at  the  idea  of 
springing  bodily  over  the  yawning  fissure  into  the  un- 
inviting berth,  whose  only  recommendation  was  that 
it  was  level,  and  whose  drawbacks  were  so  numerous. 
Besides,  I  was  not  certain  but  that  I  might  fall  short  in 
my  spring  and  (Irop  into  the  fissure  instead  of  upon  its 
far  edge;  for,  having  no  foothold  to  spring  from,  I 
should  have  to  cast  myself  bodily  from  the  side  of  the 
mountain  by  means  of  my  elbows,  chest,  knees,  and, 
subsequently,  my  hands  and  feet.  It  was  about  the 
tightest  place  that  I  can  look  back  upon  during  that 
eventful  cruise,  and  as  I  look  back  I  shudder. 

"That  bodily  leap  was  a  most  disagreeable  alternative ; 
but  I  had  either  to  accomplish  it  or  finally  slip,  from 
sheer  exhaustion  or  the  uprooting  of  the  grass,  into  the 
fissure  that  was  uuder  me. 

"  M}^  first  thought  was  to  tax  the  strength  of  the  grass 
as  little  as  possible ;  and,  to  that  end,  I  let  the  box  slip 


188  AX    INSANE    QUESTION. 

from  under  my  left  arm,  dug  my  elbows  and  knees  into 
the  soft  earth,  pressed  my  breast  close  to  that  of  the 
mountain,  and,  feeling  the  friction  thus  created  relieve 
my  arm  of  considerable  weight,  began  to  think. 

"  In  the  mean  time,  Kose  and  Burke  were  in  a  terrible 
state  of  excitement.  The  noise  of  the  falling  box 
caused  them  to  look  around  and  discover  my  almost- 
pendent  position,  Avhile,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground, 
they  felt  totally  unable  to  render  me  the  slightest  assist- 
ance. I  do  believe  that  their  feelings  were  as  unpleasant 
as  my  own,  though  probably  a  shade  less  vivid.  Rose, 
seeing  the  utter  hopelessness  of  eifecting  a  rescue,  re- 
solved himself  into  a  fit  of  spasmodic  suggestiveness, 
commencing  his  advice  by  cautioning  me  to  '  hold  on 
hard,'  while  Burke  immediately  commenced  reclimbing 
to  the  scene  of  action,  singing  out,  'Stand  by  to  jump, 
sir,  if  you  slip,' — both  of  which  admonitions  only  served 
to  give  me  a  darker  idea  of  what  was  before,  or  rather 
under,  me. 

"  The  fissure  was  at  least  three  feet  wide,  and  the 
pointed  rocks  upon  which,  if  successful,  I  was  to  alight 
face  first  were  any  thing  but  inviting.  I  fancied,  too,  that 
every  motion  of  the  bushes  that  grew  around  them  was 
caused  by  some  alarmed  reptile  preparing  to  receive  me, 
and  shrank  from  the  uncertain  leap.  Then  at  times  I 
thought  the  grass  was  failing,  and  this  would  start  the 
perspiration  to  my  brow  and  cause  a  sickly  shiver  to 
pass  through  me,  carrying  with  it  half  of  my  strength 
and  courage. 

"About  this  time,  Rose  asked  me  if  I  couldn't  jump 
between  two  of  the  bayonet-like   rocks ;    but  I  thought 


I  AM    HELPED    TO    JUMP.  189 

such  a  feat  extremely  improbable,  and  continued  my 
occupation  of  getting  up  a  certain  amount  of  friction 
between  myself  and  the  mountain.  I  hung  in  this  way 
probably  as  much  as  a  minute,  listening  to  Rose's  excited 
suggestions  and  feeling  far  from  comfortable.  I  felt 
what  was  to  be  done,  but  revolted  from  the  idea.  The 
prospect  of  breaking  several  bones,  of  being  run  through 
the  body  by  one  of  the  'bayonets,-'  or  of  alighting 
among  several  nests  of  snakes,  was  almost  as  bad  as 
that  held  out  by  a  pitch  down  the  fissure.  At  last  I 
was  helped  to  action  in  a  most  unpleasant  way.  My 
right  hand  grasped  the  bunch  of  grass,  and  before  making 
the  leap  I  must  take  it  in  my  left,  as  the  fissure  was  to 
my  right.  Cautiously  I  commenced  the  exchange,  watch- 
ing the  straining  fibres  with  an  anxious  eye,  and  keep- 
ing my  muscles  braced  for  the  jump  should  they  fail  me 
before  I  was  ready. 

"Just  then  I  caught  the  sullen  glare  of  two  other  eyes, 
— sullen  and  leaden,  and  yet  bright  and  sparkling  also 
with  alarmed  rage.  They  belonged  to  the  flattened  head 
of  an  ugly-looking  snake,  whose  sinuous  body  and  up- 
lifted front  indicated  an  active  readiness  for  either  flight 
or  attack. 

"  I  o-azed  and  shuddered.  I  shudder  now  as  the  mind's 
eye  returns  to  those  flaming  specks  of  rage  which  flashed 
their  angry  light  within  a  foot  of  my  nerveless  hand.  I 
looked  back  to  the  commencement  of  time,  and  read 
the  truth  of  Holy  Writ  in  their  expression  of  deadly 
hostility : — 'And  I  will  put  enmity  between  thee  and  the 
woman,  and  between  thy  seed  and  her  seed;  it  shall 
bruise  thy  head,  and  thou  shalt  bruise  his  heel.'     After 


190  GREAT    ABUNDANCE    OF    ANTELOPE. 

a  lifetime  of  hesitation  and  unbelief,  I  ceased  to  hesitate, 
and  believed  that  God  was  God  and  that  I  was  but  dust. 
The  prayer  of  extreme  peril,  'Lord,  have  mercy  upon 
me,  a  miserable  sinner,'  struggled  in  my  troubled  heart 
and  nerved  me  to  the  desperate  leap. 

***** 

"  It  was  over.  The  very  edge  of  the  fissure  received 
me  on  its  shelving  side,  bruised,  panting,  weak  as  an 
infant,  and  yet  with  whole  bones  and  safety.  It  seemed 
as  if  the  strength  of  a  dozen  men  had  rushed  through 
my  frame  and  thrown  me  bodily  from  the  glaring  eyes 
of  that  lifted  crest,  leaving  me  with  the  cold  drops  upon 
my  brow  and  a  sickening  feeling  of  overtaxed  muscle 
throughout  my  limbs. 

"Slowly  I  regained  my  feet,  rubbed  my  bruised  side 
with  half-numbed  hands,  looked  back  for  the  now- 
absent  snake,  and  at  the  friendly  clump  of  grass,  whose 
torn  and  drooping  blades  gave  ample  proof  of  the  service 
they  had  rendered ;  and,  as  I  picked  my  way  through 
the  'bayonets'  and  thick  undergrowth,  silently  vowed 
never  again  to  volunteer  for  an  exploring  and  surveying 
expedition  round  the  world." 

This  and  similar  scenes  were  alarming  drawbacks  to 
our  pleasure  while  surveying  the  Anakirima  group ;  but 
there  were  also  others  of  a  repaying  nature.  One  day, 
for  instance,  we  came  to  an  island  where  several  of  us 
had  fine  sport  shooting  antelope  while  wood  was  being 
taken  in  at  an  opposite  village.  Old  bust-proof  and 
his  master  went  into  ecstasies  over  the  abundance  of 
game,  and  slew  them  right  and  left.  "We  killed  some- 
thing like  a  dozen,  and  then  learned  that  they  were  the 


A    LOO-CIIOO    STAMPEDE.  191 

property  of  the  Regent  of  Loo-choo,  tlie  offspring  of 
parents  that  had  been  imported  from  China  and  put 
upon  that  and  another  island  to  breed.  Having  ended 
our  work,  we  returned  to  Nappa,  where  we  found  the 
Vincennes  and  Cooper,  and  where  we  offered  to  pay 
for  the  slain  deer;  but  they  refused,  though  we  subse- 
quently had  good  reason  to  suppose  that  they  charged 
for  them  in  our  wood-bill. 

We  now  commenced  to  get  in  another  supply  of  wood 
for  the  continuation  of  our  voyage;  and,  as  the  Loo- 
chooans  sent  it  off"  very  slowly,  we  found  ourselves 
masters  of  more  spare  time  than  the  most  sanguine  had 
hoped  for.  We  took  advantage  of  these  idle  days  to 
roam  through  Is'appa  and  the  surrounding  country,  and 
it  was  almost  painful  to  see  how  the  people  shunned  us. 
It  was  only  those  who  lived  near  the  water,  or  who  had 
been  thrown  in  contact  with  foreigners,  that  did  not  fly 
from  us  as  if  we  had  been  evil  spirits. 

Upon  one  occasion  Ave  were  following  a  winding  street, 
which  brought  us  suddenly  out  upon  the  plaza,  or  market- 
place, of  ITappa;  and  such  a  stampede  as  ensued  I  never 
before  witnessed.  The  plaza  probably  covered  a  space 
of  two  acres,  and  it  was  crowded  with  country-people, 
their  packhorses,  truck-carts,  and  articles  which  they 
had  brought  in  for  sale.  The  citizens  of  all  ages  and 
sexes  were  there  also,  making  their  purchases  in  their 
usual  noiseless  manner,  and  apparently  wrapped  up  in 
their  bargains.  Suddenly  a  confused  feeling  of  alarm 
pervaded  the  whole  square:  strangers  had  appeared 
among  them.  Those  who  were  near  the  opening  of 
the  street  down  which  we  came  rushed  pellmell  from 


192  AN   ALARMED    SPECIMEN    OF   ANTIQUITY. 

US  on  cither  side,  just  as  a  crowd  makes  a  passage  for 
a  mad  bull.  They  left  most  of  their  things  behind, 
though  there  was  one  fellow  who  took  time  to  sling 
a  pig  over  his  shoulders,  and  one  tall,  finely-formed 
woman  who  gathered  up  her  bundle  of  rice  and  walked 
off  with  majestic  dignity.  Those  who  were  more  distant 
from  us  mostly  disappeared  down  neighbouring  streets 
or  into  friendly  houses,  though  there  were  some  who 
had  the  courage  to  remain  to  pack  their  wares  hurriedly 
before  flight.  The  cattle,  too,  became  alarmed  at  the 
general  commotion,  and  added  their  antics  to  the  con- 
fusion of  the  scene.  I  never  before  saw  such  a  state  of 
"undecided  alarm." 

Being  unwilling  to  cause  any  more  inconvenience  than 
they  had  already  subjected  themselves  to,  we  stood  per- 
fectly still  and  called  out  the  names  of  several  of  their 
officials,  hoping  that  the  familiar  sounds  would  quiet 
their  fears  and  cause  them  to  return  to  their  property. 
In  this  we  were  eminently  successful,  and  we  soon  had 
the  pleasure  of  walking  among  them,  though  it  was 
still  impossible  to  gaze  at  any  but  an  averted  face. 

Upon  another  of  these  occasions,  when  we  had  lost  our 
way  among  the  crooked,  alley-like  streets  of  jNTappa,  we 
more  than  once  found  said  streets  ending  in  private 
houses,  to  the  infinite  terror  of  their  half-clad  occupants; 
and  before  we  had  worked  our  way  out  of  the  labyrinth 
we  nearly  frigbtened  to  death  two  "  unprotected  females" 
whose  fortune  threw  them  in  our  path.  One  of  these — a 
very  old  and  decrepit  specimen,  apparently — we  encoun- 
tered suddenly  upon  turning  a  corner,  and  so  startled  her 
that  she  could  only  gaze  at  us  in  stupid  wonder  until  we 


THEY      ARE      ALARMED      AT      OUR      APPROACH. 


GOING      TO      PAY      A      VISIT. 


HOW  A    COTTON   AVRAPPER    BECAME    VIVIFIED.  103 

had  passed  her,  when  she  gave  a  scream  and  took  to 
flight  with  unlooked-for  activity. 

The  other  was  "a  young  lady  of  sweet  sixteen,"  and 
she  came  gayly  around  another  corner  just  as  the  old 
woman  was  disappearing  behind  the  one  we  had  passed. 
Her  apparel  was  remarkable  for  its  extreme  simplicity 
and  uncleanliness,  and  she  no  sooner  saw  us  than  she 
turned  her  face  to  the  wall, — which  was  inconveniently 
high  to  leap, — and,  trembling  like  the  restless  leaf  of  the 
poetical  aspen,  allowed  us  to  pass  without  even  deigning  a 
smile.  Then,  as  soon  as  we  were  beyond  her  she  followed 
the  old  woman's  example,  being  suddenly  transformed, 
from  a  shrinking  figure  of  fear,  into  a  flying  mass  com- 
posed of  a  thin  cotton  wrapper,  a  pair  of  arms  and  legs, 
and  a  head  of  dishevelled,  jet-black  hair. 

Finally  we  emerged  from  the  city  into  the  outskirts, 
then  into  the  by-paths  of  the  fields,  where  we  met  with  a 
Loo-choo  gentleman  and  his  servant  upon  their  way,  as 
we  subsequently  inferred,  to  spend  the  day  with  a  friend. 
The  boy  carried  his  master's  "  chowchow-box"  which 
contained  his  dinner,  saki,  &c.,  as  it  is  the  fashion  in  Loo- 
choo  for  the  guests  to  carry  their  meals  along.  This 
gentleman  directed  us  by  the  shortest  cut  to  the  high- 
road to  the  capital  city  of  Shudi,  which  we  were  in  search 
of,  and  at  the  end  of  an  hour's  walk  we  found  ourselves 
entering  under  the  heavy  archway  which  is  stretched 
across  the  road  at  the  edge  of  the  city,  though  there  are 
no  gates  to  close,  and  no  walls  extending  from  it  to  be 
defended.  It  looks  more  like  a  consular  triumphal  arch 
than  any  thing  else.  We  had  now  walked  some  four 
miles   over  a  road    some   forty   feet   broad,   which   was 

13 


194  WE   VISIT    SHUDI. 

paved,  like  most  of  our  streets,  with  round  stones,  and 
lined  on  both  sides  by  grassy  sidewalks.  During  this 
time  we  passed  many  of  the  country-people,  similar  in  ap- 
pearance to  those  on  the  opposite  page,  most  of  whom 
would  drop  their  bundles  and  run  from  us,  though  there 
were  some  who  had  the  boldness  to  pass  us  with  bent 
forms  and  eyes  resting  on  the  ground.  Some  there  were, 
too,  of  the  higher  classes,  who  encountered  us  as  con- 
fidently as  anybody ;  but  these  were  mostly  the  officials 
who  had  mixed  with  Perry's  squadron  and  become  recon- 
ciled to  the  sight  of  strangers.  We  spent  several  hours 
walking  through  Shudi,  but  derived  not  the  slightest 
benefit  from  it,  as  we  could  no  sooner  enter  a  crowded 
street  than  the  alarm  would  spread  like  wildfire,  and  in 
the  snap  of  one's  finger  it  would  be  empty  and  the  doors 
of  every  house  strongly  barred.  Finally  we  arrived  at  a 
huge  jpile  of  gray  granite,  that  reminded  us  strongly  of 
the  feudal  castles  of  old.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  heavy 
stone  wall  that  was  thirty  or  forty  feet  high  in  some 
places  and  had  but  one  gate, — that  we  could  see.  Through 
this  gate  we  looked,  and  saw  a  number  of  officials  loung- 
ing around  the  grounds  with  fans  in  their  hands,  and 
looking  altogether  quite  comfortable ;  but,  though  we 
looked  longingly  through  the  bars,  and  resorted  to  various 
ingenious  devices  to  attract  their  attention,  we  failed  in 
our  object,  and  returned  slowly  to  the  ship,  rather  dis- 
gusted than  otherwise  with  our  visit. 

Our  reduced  squadron  now  began  to  show  the  efiects 
of  hard  work  and  heavy  weather.  The  ships  looked 
rusty,  our  boats  were  bruised  and  battered,  and  we  our- 
selves   looked    miserably  seedy  and  overworked.      We 


THE      OFFICIALS     OF     THE     TEMPLE. 


MAGNIFICENT   HARBOURS.  195 

kept  up  the  flagging  spirits  of  the  men  by  reminding 
them  of  the  extra  compensation  which  we  had  been 
assured  Congress  would  grant  us,  and  again  put  to  sea. 

"We  were  now  bound  for  Ha-ko-da-di,  Japanese  island 
of  Jesso,  and  the  Cooper  was  to  survey  the  west  coast  of 
the  great  island  of  Nipon,  while  the  Vincennes  and  Han- 
cock, pursuing  different  routes  in  order  to  cover  as  much 
space  as  possible,  were  to  attend  to  every  thing  to  the 
eastward.  The  two  latter  vessels  were  also  to  touch  at 
Si-mo-da,  east  coast  of  Nipon ;  and,  before  reaching  that 
half-sheltered  port,  we  surveyed  a  number  of  islands 
hitherto  unexplored,  and  lying  in  the  path  from  California 
to  China.  As  we  worked  our  way  slowly  through  those 
unknown  lands  to  the  northward,  we  passed  one  active 
and  several  extinct  volcanoes,  and  finally  arrived  at 
Ousima  or  Preble's  Island.  The  Vincennes  had  examined 
the  east  coast  of  this  island  during  her  cruise  of  the  pre- 
vious year,  and  found  it,  like  that  of  Formosa,  totally 
wanting  in  harbours  of  any  kind.  It  was  now  reserved 
for  the  two  ships  in  company  to  encounter  a  succession 
of  the  most  magnificent  ports  of  shelter  as  they  surveyed 
along  its  west  coast. 

One  of  these,  situated  upon  the  northwest  extreme  of 
the  island,  is  well  worthj^  of  a  passing  notice.  In  the 
first  place,  it  is  undoubtedly  the  most  sheltered  anchorage 
in  the  world;  secondly,  it  is  the  most  convenient  locality 
for  a  coal-depot,  should  steamers  ever  run  from  California 
to  China;  and,  thirdly,  it  is  the  dividing- line  between 
the  Loo-choo  and  Japanese  islands.  There  we  found 
both  of  these  people,  the  former  on  the  southern  shore  of 
the  douhlc  harbour,  and  the  latter  on  its  northern, — the 


196  MAMMOTH    RASPBERRIES.  ^ 

former  receiving-  us  with  fear  and  trembling,  the  latter 
with  suspicion  and  distrust.  Upon  visiting  the  former, 
we  were  timidly  asked,  through  our  interpreter,  "  Why 
have  you  arrived  at  our  small  island  ?"  and  upon  landing 
among  the  latter  we  were  obliged  to  intimate  our  readi- 
ness for  fighting  before  they  would  get  out  of  our  way 
and  let  us  ascend  a  neighbouring  peak  with  a  theodolite. 
Here  we  found  fresh  supplies  of  a  magnificent  raspberry, 
similar  to  some  we  had  encountered  at  the  Auakirima 
Islands,  and  which  I  neglected  to  speak  of  while  writing 
about  that  gronp.  They  were  of  two  difi:erent  species, 
one  of  a  brown  colour  and  as  large  as  a  small  apricot, 
the  other  yellow  and  about  the  size  of  a  Malaga  grape. 
The  former  grew  on  a  vine  that  ran  along  the  ground  or 
twined  itself  around  bushes  ;  while  the  latter  hung  in 
clusters  from  small  bushes  that  generally  stood  off"  by 
themselves.  The  leaf  of  the  larger  was  often  from  seven 
to  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  one  which  I  brought 
home  with  me  is  always  mistaken  for  that  of  the  grape. 
We  gathered  quantities  of  these  berries;  and — as  we  had 
previously  failed  to  get  fresh  provisions  from  the  Loo- 
chooans,  and  subsequently  failed  to  do  so  from  the 
Japanese,  in  spite  of  Commodore  Perry's  much-talked- 
of  treaty  —  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  warded  off  the 
scurvy  from  us  for  months.  The  latitude  of  the  splendid 
harbour  aronnd  which  these  berries  grew  is  28°  CO'  N., 
its  longitude  121t°  32'  E.,  and  it  must  eventually  become 
a  place  of  importance. 

Leaving  this  quiet  retreat,  we  once  more  put  to  sea  and 
continued  the  survey,  by  separate  routes,  to  Si-mo-da; 
arrived  ofl:"  which  port,  we  sighted  a  vessel  entering  ahead 


WE   ARRIVE   AT    SI-AIO-DA.  197 

of  ITS,  which  our  glasses  proved  to  he  the  Vinceniies. 
We  had  expected  to  arrive  some  days  before  her,  hut  the 
"old  John"  had  had  to  contend  against  headwinds,  and 
had,  as  usual,  drifted  to  leeward.     Poor  "old  John"! 

The  Vincennes  anchored  in  the  mouth  of  the  unpro- 
tected harbour;  and,  as  we  passed  her  at  the  astonishing 
rate  of  six  knots,  and  answered  the  hail  of  Commander 
Rodgera  as  to  the  health  of  the  ship,  &c.,  we  noticed  a 
Whitehall  row-boat  towing  at  her  stern,  and  several 
strangers  in  European  costume  mixed  amoug  the  officers 
and  assisting  them  to  admire  (?)  the  graceful  outlines  and 
killing  pace  of  our  poor  old  tub  of  a  steamer. 

As  we  rounded  to  and  let  go  our  anchor  well  in  with 
the  shore,  we  wondered  what  that  clean-looking  White- 
hall boat  was  doing  in  Japan,  and  who  those  admiring 
strangers  could  be  ;  and  in  regard  to  these  two  wonders 
our  minds  were  soon  set  at  rest. 

Scarcely  was  the  anchor  down  than  they  came  along- 
side in  the  Vincennes'  gig,  and,  a  barge-load  of  Japanese 
officials  boarding  us  at  the  same  time,  our  hands  were 
filled  so  far  as  entertaining  was  concerned.  We  imme- 
diately took  the  combined  party  down  into  the  ward-room 
and  began  to  fiud  out  who  the  former  were,  while  the 
latter,  with  their  usual  prying  policy,  began  to  try  to 
ascertain  why  we  had  visited  their  unfrequented  shores. 

Our  "admiring  strangers"  proved  to  be  Americans  of 
the  nomadic  stamp,  who  had  lately  arrived  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands  with  an  assorted  cargo  destined  to 
meet  the  wants  of  whaling-vessels,  and  who,  upon  the 
discharging  of  their  vessel,  were  to  have  reloaded  her 
with  Japanese  goods   and   sent  her  to  San  Francisco, 


198  AMERICANS    IN   JAPAN. 

while  they  themselves  remained  in  Japan  with  their 
embryo  ship-chancllery. 

Their  party  numbered  nine  in  all : — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eeed 
and  two  children,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Doty,  and  Messrs.  Edger- 
ton,  Bridleman,  and  Peabody.  They  were  at  present 
living  in  a  temple  on  shore,  and  invited  us  to  make  their 
quarters  our  louuging-place. 

The  manner  in  which  they  came  into  possession  of  this 
temple — in  fact,  the  only  reason  why  they  were  allowed  to 
land  at  all — is  worthy  of  note,  more  especially  as  a  very 
wrong  conclusion  is  jumped  at  on  page  454  of  the  other- 
wise very  truthful  work  resulting  from  the  labours  of 
the  squadron  under  Commodore  M.  C.  Perry.  Before 
noticing  this  wrong  conclusion,  I  will  make  a  simple 
statement  of  the  manner  in  which  they  awoke  one  fine 
morning  and  found  themselves  temporary  residents  of 
Japan.  Commodore  Perry's  treaty  had  nothing  whatever 
to  do  with  it. 

Shortly  previous  to  their  arrival,  the  Russian  frigate 
Diana  had  been  seriously  injured  by  an  earthquake  while 
at  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  Si-mo-da,  and  had  subse- 
quently foundered  while  being  towed  to  the  more  pro- 
tected port  of  Hey-da  for  repairs ;  and  her  crew,  being  thus 
left  upon  the  hands  of  the  Japanese, — who  feared  an  armed 
body  of  live  hundred  men, — were  necessarily  compelled 
to  have  quarters  assigned  them,  and  provisions  furnished, 
until  such  time  as  a  ship  should  arrive  to  take  them 
away. 

A  large  temple  at  Kaga-zaki  (a  small  village  of  some 
hundred  and  fifty  houses  near  the  mouth  of  the  harbour) 
was  therefore  placed  at  their  disposal,  which,  subjected  to 


A  AVROXG    CONCLUSION    OP    COMMODORE    PERRY'S.        199 

a  few  alterations,  made  them  a  most  comfortable  resi- 
dence ;  and  they  were  still  lounging  through  its  roomy 
saloons  and  passages  when  our  admiring  strangers  ar- 
rived, and  were,  to  their  surprise,  boarded  by  a  Russian 
officer  instead  of  a  host  of  Japanese  officials.  ISTow,  these 
Russians  had  saved  their  small-arms,  &c.,  as  well  as  their 
lives,  when  their  frigate  went  down,  and,  being  several 
hundred  in  number,  were  a  source  of  constant  dread  to 
their  usually-tyrannical  but  now  obsequious  hosts,  who 
no  sooner  saw  the  arrival  of  a  vessel  than  they  advo- 
cated the  idea  of  their  taking  passage  in  her  away  from 
Jajmn. 

As  she  was  not  large  enough,  however,  to  take  them 
all  at  once,  it  was  determined  to  let  all  of  her  passengers 
and  cargo  be  landed,  toward  the  simple  end  of  obtaining 
more  room  in  which  to  stow  a  greater  number  of  the 
obnoxious  Russians ;  and  it  was  further  determined  that, 
as  long  as  their  schooner  was  employed  in  the  transporta- 
tion of  said  Russians,  they,  the  Americans,  should  have 
the  free  use  of  the  temple  with  and  after  the  Russians, 
and  be  further  granted  a  house  in  which  to  store  their 
cargo.  Upon  the  return  of  their  schooner  after  her  last 
load — I.  e.  after  she  had  done  Japan  the  service  to  rid  her 
of  her  unwelcome  guests — they  were  to  restow  their  cargo, 
and  take  themselves  off,  with  any  Japanese  goods  which 
they  might  be  able  to  sell  them.  And  this  is  a  correct 
account  of  the  manner  in  which  Americans  first  resided 
temporarily  in  Japan  ;  although,  as  I  have  previously 
said,  one  would  arrive  at  a  far  different  conclusion  from 
reading  Perry's  comments  on  the  subject.  In  regard  to 
this  treaty  I  have  to  add  another  word : — it  grants  much 


200      RUSSIAN  GRATITUDE  AND  FRENCH  PyNCH. 

more  than  even  the  most  sanguine  mind  had  reason  to 
expect;  and  yet,  from  the  utter  faithlessness  of  the  Ja- 
panese themselves,  many  of  its  articles  are  rendered  null 
and  void.  The  commodore  will  have  to  be  sent  back 
with  a  moderate  force  and  full  powers,  and  not  with  an 
overwhelming  squadron  and  his  hands  tied  with  Govern- 
ment tape. 

And  now  let  us  return  to  our  mess-room,  where  the 
Japanese,  the  nomadics,  a  Russian  officer,  and  "the 
mess,"  were  opening  bottles  of  French  punch,  to  the 
especial  delight  of  the  former. 

The  Russian  just  spoken  of  had  been  left  in  charge  of 
the  temple  with  several  men,  when  his  companions  had 
retired  to  the  more  secluded  port  of  Iley-da,  to  avoid 
being  discovered  by  the  English  and  French  cruisers,  and 
he  was  now  almost  as  delighted  to  see  us  as  were  the 
Americans  themselves.  He  spoke  with  great  feeling  of 
the  kindness  of  the  officers  of  the  U.  S.  steamer  Pow- 
hatan to  his  shipwrecked  companions,  in  giving  them 
clothes  and  provisions,  and  finally  became  so  affected  by 
the  combination  of  Russian  gratitude  and  French  punch 
that  he  threw  his  arms  round  Carnes,  the  master,  de- 
claring, in  broken  accents,  that  "he  never  before  saw 
such  line  sailor-men,  and  that  we  must  come  on  shore  to 
his  house  at  once." 

This  specimen  of  fraternizing  was  not  lost  on  the 
Japanese  portion  of  the  assembly,  who,  having  drunk  at 
least  double  as  much  as  any  one  else,  were  quite  pre- 
pared to  take  advantage  of  any  such  demonstration  to 
relax  their  sober  countenances  and  assume  a  "hail- 
fellow-well-met"  style  of  demeanour,  more  in  keeping 


THE    FINEST    SWORDS    IN    THE   WORLD.  201 

witli  the  occasion.  When  they  had  first  drawn  up 
around  the  table,  (with  the  dignity  of  gentlemen,  it  must 
be  confessed,)  we  had  intimated,  by  unmistakable  signs, 
our  desires  to  see  their  swords,  of  the  beautiful  polish 
and  temper  of  which  we  had  heard  so  much,  and  they 
had  universally  refused  to  draw  them,  expressing  their 
surprise  and  wonder  in  horrified  glances  and  mysterious 
shakings  of  the  head.  JSTow,  however,  they  readily  gave 
them  into  our  charge,  making  signs  that  they  could  not 
eat  and  drink  with  comfort  while  bothered  with  them, 
and  pointing  to  the  state-rooms  as  places  of  safety  where 
they  might  be  laid.  Of  course  we  went  into  those  state- 
rooms, and  with  closed  doors  examined  their  beautiful 
workmanship  and  temper  to  our  hearts'  content. 

"I'll  tell  you  what  it  is!"  said  the  Russian,  as  he 
watched  with  reluctant  gaze  the  rapid  inroads  which 
they  made  in  the^ precious  punch:  "these  fellows  talk 
very  smoothly  now,  and  promise  you  every  thing  you  ask 
for ;  but  wait  until  the  time  comes  to  fulfil  their  promises 
and  see  how  they  will  act.  The  only  way  our  admiral 
could  get  along  with  them  was  by  getting  the  men  under 
arms  and  threatening  to  march  them  upon  Yeddo  when- 
ever they  promised  without  acting ;  and,  if  you  ever  ex- 
pect them  to  bring  you  half  the  provisions  they  have  put 
on  that  list,  your  commodore  will  have  to  do  the  same 
thing." 

And  he  was  right ;  for,  as  long  as  we  were  in  Japan, 
we  could  never  succeed  in  getting  any  thing  but  a  few 
eggs,  now  and  then  a  tough  chicken,  and  occasionally  a 
quart  or  two  of  fresh  beans.  Eice,  soya,  and  saki  were 
the  only  three  articles  they  ever  furnished  in  abundance. 


202  WE    RECEIVE    PERMISSION   TO    GO    ON   SHORE. 

Tatz-iiosky,  the  interpreter,  who  was  seated  directly 
opposite  to  our  Russian  friend  while  he  thus  belaboured 
his  nation,  and  who  understood  probably  about  one-half 
of  what  was  said,  took  it  all  in  good  part,  but,  as  the 
party  was  breaking  up,  revenged  himself  by  whispering, 
in  a  confidential  manner,  "Eusse  no  good!  Ameliken 
very  good  I"  After  which  he  and  his  companions  took 
their  departure  amidst  most  energetic  protestations  of 
regard  and  friendship.  The  last  thing  Tatz-nosky  did 
was  to  tell  us  that  the  governor  had  given  us  permission 
to  go  on  shore  for  a  little  while,  but  that  we  must  not 
ramble  far, — a  piece  of  information  that  so  annoyed  the 
captain,  that  he  called  him  back  and  indulged  in  an  im- 
promptu speech  to  the  following  effect : — 

"  Commodore  Perry  had  made  a  treaty  with  Japan, 
and  w^e  had  a  copy  of  it  on  board  for  our  guidance. 
That  treaty  granted  us  the  privilege  of  going  on 
shore  when  it  suited  us ;  and,  though  we  fully  appre- 
ciated the  attention  of  the  governor  in  noticing  our 
arrival,  still,  we  could  not  look  to  him  to  regulate  our 
movements,"  &c.  &c. 

Tatz-nosky  understood  enough  of  this  very  proper 
speech  to  show  him  that  we  were  conscious  of  our  rights 
and  determined  to  exact  them,  but  w^hether  it  ever 
reached  the  ears  of  the  governor  it  is  hard  to  say. 


THE  PRETTY  GIRLS  WHO  WELCOMED  US. 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

WE  LAND  IN  JAPAN,  AND  VISIT  A  NUMBER  OF  AMERICANS  AND  ONE  RUS- 
SIAN— "MAHOMET  AND  THE  MOUNTAIN"  DIFFER  AS  TO  THE  MOST  PLEA- 
SANT DIRECTION  FOR  A  STROLL,  AND  FINALLY  PART  COMPANY,  TO  THE 
EVIDENT   ANNOYANCE    OF   THE    LATTER. 

And  now  we  were  in  Japan,  among  the  mysterious 
people  wlio  for  the  last  three  hundred  years  had  amused 
themselves  by  tying  and  otherwise  harshly  treating  all 
shipwrecked  mariners  of  whatever  nation,  and  with  whom 
the  world  was  now  beginning  to  renew  its  acquaintance 
after  an  isolation  of  centuries.  It  was  a  thrilling  thought 
— the  very  idea  of  landing  among  them;  and,  although 
it  was  rainiug  when  our  guests  of  the  last  chapter  left, 
several  of  us  armed  ourselves  with  umbrellas  and  took  a 
boat  for  the  beach.  "We  landed  between  Ka-ga-sa-ki  and 
the  sea,  and  followed  the  beach  until  we  reached  the  out- 
skirts of  the  former,  when  we  began  to  be  struck  by  the 
great  number  of  children  and  pretty  girls  that  came  for- 
ward to  welcome  us.  They  seemed  quite  anxious  to  sec 
strangers,  coming  out  of  their  houses,  and  lining  our 
path  with  their  fancifully-painted  umbrellas  overhead 
and  their  awkward  stilt-like  sandals  underfoot.  There 
was  considerable  pertness,  too,  as  well  as  curiosity,  in  their 
glances,  but  as  a  general  rule  their  bearing  was  marked 
by  any  thing  but  boldness.  The  people  of  this  particular 
locality  had  seen  so  much  of  our  countrymen,  and  appa- 

203 


204  HOW   AVE    CONVERSE. 

reiitly  formed  so  favourable  an  idea  of  them  during  the 
two  visits  of  Commodore  Perry,  that  they  now  viewed  us 
without  fear:  indeed,  to  have  heard  their  questions  and 
seen  their  pantomime,  one  would  have  imagined  that  the 
majority  of  them  had  been  personally  acquainted  with  the 
worthy  commodore.  They  would  pronounce  his  name 
quite  plainly,  (Comdo  Pelly,)  and  ask  us,  by  signs,  if  we 
had  ever  seen  him,  giving  us  to  understand,  in  return,  that 
they  regarded  him  as  a  very  powerful  personage.  Even 
the  little  children  had  now  become  reconciled  to  us, 
(through  associations  with  members  of  his  squadron, 
we  inferred,)  and  approached  us  with  perfect  confidence. 
They  would  collect  from  all  directions,  as  we  passed, 
hold  out  their  hands  with  the  salutation,  "How  do  you 
do?"  or,  "Ohio!"  and,  if  noticed  by  a  good-natured 
shake,  would  retire  among  their  less  adventurous  com- 
panions with  the  steps  of  young  heroes.  They  also,  in 
many  cases,  evinced  the  utmost  eagerness  to  pick  up  a 
few  words  of  our  language. 

One  little  fellow  I  remember  in  particular,  who  learned 
to  count  as  high  as  ten  in  as  many  minutes ;  and  the  next 
day  I  found  him  on  the  sandy  beach  with  a  sharp  stick, 
W'ith  which  he  was  tracing  1,  2,  3,  &c.  as  readily  and  accu- 
rately as  many  thick-headed  school-boys  after  a  month  of 
daily  drubbings.  He  held  in  his  left  hand  a  slip  of  paper 
on  which  I  had  written  him  the  numbers  on  the  previous 
evening,  and,  recognising  me  as  soon  as  I  approached, 
made  signs  that  he  had  no  longer  any  use  for  those,  and 
wanted  me  to  put  down  some  more.  I  looked  at  his 
childish  frame  and  bright,  sparkling  eyes,  and  began  to 
conceive  a  high  idea  of  Japanese  brains.     It  is  needless 


THE   PORTAL   OF   THE    TEMPLE.  20o 

to  add  tliat  myself  and  friend  seated  ourselves  on  a  piece 
of  ship-timber,  and  wrote  him  down  the  numbers  ad  in- 
finitum, which  he  had  no  sooner  received  (the  lead-pencil 
being  added,  to  his  lively  joy)  than  he  commenced  count- 
ing on  his  fingers  as  high  as  each  number,  when,  as  we 
bent  our  heads  in  assent,  he  put  the  Japanese  character 
opposite  to  each,  and,  the  whole  being  translated  in  that 
way,  he  smoothed  oif  a  place  on  the  beach,  and  went  to 
work  with  his  sharp  stick  and  a  will  that  caused  me  to 
look  back  to  my  own  truant-playing  days  and  blush. 
But  all  this  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  visit  which  we 
went  on  shore  to  pay. 

A  walk  of  some  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  through  the  two 
rows  of  houses  that  lined  the  beach  brought  us  quite 
unexpectedly  in  front  of  a  large  wooden  structure,  to 
which  several  of  the  crowd  that  followed  us  pointed  with 
the  explanatory  exclamation  of  "Roos!"  "Roos!"  which 
we  took  to  imply  that  it  was  the  quarters  of  the  Russians, 
and  that  it  would  be  but  polite  in  us  to  stop  and  pay  them 
a  visit.  As  we  had  gone  on  shore  for  that  purpose,  we 
took  their  advice  and  turned  at  right  angles  into  the 
broad  and  shady  avenue,  which,  after  a  length  of  some 
fifty  or  sixty  yards,  terminated  at  the  foot  of  a  massive 
flight  of  stone  steps,  at  the  top  of  which  was  an  equally 
massive-looking  portal,  guarded  on  either  hand  by  an 
unknown  monster  of  frightful  exterior,  carved  out  of 
wood,  and  most  fancifully  painted. 

We  passed  between  these  fierce-looking  unknowns, 
and  entered  upon  a  square  and  level  space  of  something 
like  an  acre  in  extent,  from  the  back  of  which  the 
thickly-wooded  hill-side  arose,  while  in  the  centre  was 


206  A   JAPANESE    GRAVEYARD. 

built  tlie  temple.  Between  this  latter  and  the  hill-side — 
in  fact,  extending  up  into  the  bushes — was  a  Japanese 
graveyard, — a  most  singular-looking  graveyard  to  stranger 
eyes,  and  yet  incapable  of  being  mistaken  for  any  thing 
else. 

It  was  laid  out  in  walks  and  beds  something  after  the 
fashion  of  a  flower-garden,  and  contained  thousands  and 
thousands  of  small  stone  images  that  varied  in  size  from 
six  inches  to  two  or  three  feet.  These  were  arranged 
about  in  spots  without  much  regard  to  the  beauty  of 
effect,  being  piled  together  like  so  many  bricks,  or  scat- 
tered about  in  the  most  convenient  corners  and  crevices. 
Some  I  even  saw  stuck  up  in  the  spreading  branches  of 
the  trees,  and  others  again  that,  having  been  put  at  the 
foot  of  a  tree  between  two  roots,  the  latter  had  grown 
around  them  and  rendered  their  removal  no  longer  pos- 
sible. We  were  given  to  understand,  by  one  Japanese, 
that  these  images  contain  the  ashes  of  defunct  officers ; 
and,  by  another,  that  thc}^  were  intended  simply  as  tomb- 
stones to  mark  where  the  ashes  had  been  laid.  And  this 
latter  authority  I  rather  incline  to,  though  it  is  dangerous 
to  believe  any  thing  that  a  two-sworded  Japanese  tells 
you. 

As  we  entered  upon  the  cleanly-swept  space  in  front 
of  the  temple  and  looked  around  us,  we  saw  a  dozen  or 
more  of  these  two-sworded  gentry  lounging  about  the 
yard,  while  a  number  of  others  were  engaged  with  their 
pipes  in  the  spy-house.  These  latter  were  the  superiors, 
who,  in  that  dreamy  state  of  enjoyment,  awaited  the  fre- 
quent reports  that  were  brought  to  them  by  the  former  in 
regard  to  every  movement  of  the  occupants  of  the  temple. 


HOAV   yVE   ARE   COUNTED.  207 

These  informers  no  sooner  saw  lis  all  inside  of  the  gate, 
than  they  made  a  note  of  our  number  with  their  paint- 
brush-like pencils,  and,  as  we  were  received  on  the  steps 
of  the  temple  by  the  Americans  and  him  who  "had 
never  before  seen  such  fine  sailor-men,"  we  saw  them 
sink  upon  their  knees  and  hand  their  slips  of  paper  to 
the  lazy  smokers  of  the  spy-house. 

"You  see  they  have  counted  you  already,"  said  one  of 
our  hosts,  as  he  welcomed  us  to  the  immense  mansion ; 
"and  when  you  go  away  the  same  thing  will  be  done 
over  again.  From  the  moment  you  enter  their  ports, 
they  station  boats  to  watch  your  ships.  When  you  leave 
your  ships,  you  are  counted  and  watched.  "When  you 
land,  you  are  followed ;  and  when  you  return  on  board, 
you  are  again  counted  to  see  that  there  are  none  left  on 
shore.  If  a  less  number  return  than  landed,  a  search  is 
at  once  got  under  way  and  the  missing  ones  are  always 
found.  AYe  sometimes  amused  ourselves  by  passing,  like 
the  Frenchman's  cat,  ^incessantly  ins  and  outs  of  ze  cat- 
hole,'  (a  gate  in  our  case,)  thus  causing  these  sentries 
to  keep  up  a  perfect  stream  of  reports.  They  couldn't 
understand  it  at  first,  but  after  a  while  smelt  a  rat,  and 
contented  themselves  with  reporting  only  about  every  ten 
minutes.  The  children  used  to  bafiie  them  considerably 
also,  for  in  their  childish  sports  they  would  often  get 
beyond  the  grounds  of  the  temple  and  mix  with  the 
Japanese  of  their  own  age,  much  to  the  annoyance  of 
the  officers." 

By  this  time  we  were  seated  in  a  large  and  spacious 
room,  one  of  whose  windows  looked  out  upon  several 
fresh-lookinfc  monuments  that  lifted  themselves  from  a 


208  ONLY  TWO  SHORT  TEARS. 

slight  elevation  on  our  left,  while  the  others  opened  into 
the  grand  hall  of  the  temple. 

""Well,  it  is  singular!"  exclaimed  one  of  the  party,  as 
he  gazed  through  the  former  upon  the  civilized-looking 
monuments.  "  Look  here  at  these  granite  monuments, 
with  their  emblems  chiselled  upon  them,  and  the  fel- 
low's history  cut  in,  exactly  v\'here  with  us  would  be  put 
*  Sacred  to  the  memory,'  &c.  They  look  exactly  like  the 
monuments  you  would  see  in  any  Christian  graveyard. 
I  thought  the  Japanese  burned  their  dead  and  stowed 
the  ashes  away  in  jars?" 

"So  they  do,  as  a  general  rule,"  remarked  the  Russian. 
"But  these  are  not  Japanese  monuments  that  you  see 
there.  Four  of  Commodore  Perry's  men  and  one  of  his 
officers  are  buried  under  them.  The  monuments  them- 
selves were  made  by  Japanese,  from  drawings  by  Ame- 
ricans." 

"  Do  you  remember  what  the  name  of  the  officer  was  ?" 
asked  an  interested  voice. 

"Hamilton, — Dr.  James  Hamilton,"  was  the  careless 
reply. 

I  looked  back  to  the  jovial  mess-room  of  the  Kennedy, 
(only  two  short  years,)  and,  as  my  eye  rested  on  the 
glorious  hearts  that  then  beat  around  our  social  board,  I 
felt  it  dim  and  moisten  over  the  memory  of  more  than 
one  that  was  now  pulseless  and  cold.  Hardships  and  dis- 
ease, combined  with  the  destroying  breath  of  the  uncurbed 
typhoon,  had  even  then  sadly  thinned  our  ranks.  One 
slept  his  noiseless  sleep  among  the  unknown  depths  of 
the  coral  sea,  and  now  the  lasting  monument  of  another, 
towering  over  the  Buddhist  images,  proclaimed  on  its  face 


THE  RUSSIAN  PROVES  A  TRUE  PROPHET.       209 

a  gospel  truth, — strauge  words  to  be  seen  in  that  iuhdel 
land. 

"  Poor  Hamilton  !"  said  one  pensive  voice.  The  others 
passed  lightly  on  to  other  subjects ;  and,  as  night  ap- 
proached, we  took  our  leave  and  returned  on  board, 
several  two-sworded  officials  attending  us  to  the  beach. 
Thus  ended  our  first  day  in  Japan. 

We  awoke  the  next  morning  with  the  veiy  reasonable 
hope  of  having  a  fresh  breakfast, — soft-boiled  eggs,  a 
broiled  chicken,  or  something  of  that  sort ;  but  there  was 
no  such  good  fortune  in  store  for  us.  We  ate  our  usual  sea- 
breakfast,  and  then  began  to  abuse  Tatz-nosky.  "  Well, 
you  may  abuse  him  as  much  as  you  choose,"  said  Cavi- 
losky,  our  Russian  friend,  who  came  on  board  just  at  the 
time :  "  did  I  not  tell  you  yesterday  that  they  would  bring 
you  nothing?"  The  Russian  was  right;  for,  during  the 
several  months  that  we  were  in  or  about  Japan,  we  never 
once  received  fresh  provisions  for  the  crew,  and  only 
rarely  a  stray  chicken  or  a  duck  for  ourselves.  Rice, 
soya,  (a  very  fine  fish-sauce,)  and  saki,  (a  strong  and  not 
unpleasant  liquor  made  from  rice,)  were  the  only  things 
they  ever  furnished  us  in  abundance ;  and,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  former  of  these,  we  should  have  been  in  a 
starving  condition. 

Upon  one  occasion  we  saw  several  hundred  chickens 
in  a  bamboo  pen  in  the  very  centre  of  Si-mo-da;  but, 
before  we  could  find  the  proper  person  to  order  some 
sent  on  board,  they  had  disappeared.  Upon  complaining 
of  this  to  Tatz-nosky,  his  excuse  was  that  they  had  been 
previously  sold,  but  that  we  should  certainly  have  some 
before  long.     This  indefinite  date  never  arrived.     Upon 

14 


210  WE   ARE   OFFERED   A   HORSE   FOR   BEEF. 

another  occasion  we  saw  dozens  of  the  finest  bullocks 
ranging  the  neighbouring  hills,  and,  when  we  wanted  to 
buy  some  of  them,  were  informed  that  they  were  used  as 
beasts  of  burden,  but  that  if  we  wanted  a  horse  we  could 
have  one. 

"We  had  not  been  many  hours  in  Si-mo-da,  when  Com- 
mander Eodgers  was  applied  to  by  the  "nomadics"  to 
force  the  Japanese  to  respect  a  certain  article  of  Com- 
modore Perry's  late  treaty ;  but  that  officer  very  properly 
regarded  the  disputed  point  as  a  question  for  future  dis- 
cussion between  the  two  Governments,  and  contented 
himself  with  making  an  official  appeal  in  their  behalf. 
The  result  of  this  was  that  the  nomadics  were  informed 
that  the  treaty-phrase  "temporary  residence"  was  under- 
stood to  mean  a  day's  stroll  through  the  city  or  into  the 
countr}',  and  that  they  could  never  be  allowed  to  settle  in 
any  part  of  Japan.  They  therefore  got  on  board  of  their 
schooner  when  she  returned,  and  sailed  to  Ha-ko-da-di, 
where,  meeting  a  similar  refusal,  they  returned  to  San 
Francisco  in  very  high  and  just  dudgeon.  But  I  am 
getting  ahead  of  my  narrative. 

Finding  that  we  were  unable  to  buy  beef  and  vege- 
tables, we  turned  our  attention  to  articles  of  Japanese 
manufacture,  such  as  china,  lacquer-ware,  &c. ;  and,  having 
exacted  a  promise  that  a  bazaar  should  be  got  up  for  us 
as  soon  as  possible,  we  sat  down  patiently  to  await  its 
falfilment.  In  the  mean  time  we  surveyed  the  harbour 
and  adjoining  coasts;  which  accomplished,  we  resorted 
to  daily  walks  into  the  interior  as  the  most  profitable  way 
of  passing  the  time.  We  were  much  annoyed  during 
our  fii'st  walks  by  the  Japanese  officials,  who,  after  drink- 


MORE    "tightly-encased    SMALL    BOYS."  211 

ing  all  of  our  Frencli  punch  on  board  ship,  would  en- 
counter us  on  shore  and  dog  our  steps  to  prevent  our 
communicating  too  freely  with  the  country-people.  Let 
me  recall  one  of  these  walks : — 

It  was  upon  a  clear  and  cool  morning,  that  ushered 
in  a  warm  day;  and  the  hour  was  sunrise.  Lawton, 
our  chief  engineer,  Bridleman,  one  of  the  nomadics, 
and  myself,  stepped  into  the  dingy  and  pulled  for  the 
upper  landing  upon  the  edge  of  Si-mo-da.  The  reader 
probably  remembers  the  word  "  dingy."  It  is  the  name  of 
a  boat, — just  such  another  small  boat,  pulled  by  two  other 
similarly-encased  small  boys,  as  carried  old  bust-proof, 
his  master,  and  myself  on  shore  at  Simon's  Town  to 
frighten  Hottentot  Avomen  and  startle  catbirds.  In  the 
present  case  we  were  pulling  leisurely  over  smooth  water, 
however,  and  the  trousers  "held  their  own"  bravely. 
We  were  armed  for  a  long  tramp, — very  large  walking- 
sticks,  heavy  expedition-boots,  &c.  &c. ;  and,  in  addition, 
we  carried  concealed  revolvers  for  defence,  and  our 
watches,  to  excite  curiosity  in  the  country-people. 
Finally,  we  had  a  very  poor  idea  of  where  we  were  going 
or  what  we  were  going  to  do. 

"Let's  just  start  directly  back  into  the  country,"  said 
Lawton,  "walk  right  straight  ahead  until  twelve  o'clock, 
then  eat  our  lunch  alongside  of  some  romantic  stream, 
throw  the  crumbs  to  the  fish,  and  return  by  a  new  road. 
If  we  do  lose  our  way  and  have  to  sleep  among  the  Ja- 
panese, why,  we'll  at  any  rate  do  what  no  untied  foreigner 
has  done  for  centuries." 

"I  think  I'd  rather  sleep  in  my  bunk,"  I  said,  "unless, 


212  THE  RESULT  OP  AN  APPEAL. 

indeed,  we  could  carry  a  tent  with  us  and  go  upon  a  regu- 
lar voyage  of  discovery  for  a  week." 

"That's  a  good  idea,"  said  Bridleman ;  "but,  as  we  are 
now  half-way  on  shore,  we'd  better  put  it  off  to  another 
day." 

The  boat  here  ranged  up  to  the  rocky  and  picturesque 
landing,  and  we  stepped  ashore  under  the  heavy  foliage 
of  unknown  trees,  and  wended  our  interesting  path  be- 
tween their  sturdy,  live-oak-like  trunks  and  under  their 
sheltering  arms.  It  was  the  third  time  we  had  been  on 
shore  in  Si-mo-da;  but  we  could  not  tire  of  that  shady 
walk  or  of  looking  around  every  bush  and  corner  for 
something  new.  The  reflection  that  we  were  among  a 
people  who  for  hundreds  of  years  had  existed  entirely 
among  themselves  lent  an  interest  to  every  object  that 
crossed  our  path,  and  caused  the  blood  to  flow  through 
our  veins  with  the  nervous  excitement  of  intense  curi- 
osity. 

The  first  object  of  note  that  we  passed  was  a  Govern- 
ment spy-house, — a  small  bamboo  building, — which  had 
been  erected  near  the  landing,  since  our  arrival,  for  the 
express  purpose  of  enabling  the  Government  spies,  who 
occupied  it,  to  note  every  American  who  came  on  shore 
and  cause  him  to  be  followed  or  watched  by  one  or  more 
of  their  number.  We  had,  upon  both  of  our  previous 
visits,  been  excessively  annoyed  by  these  spies,  and  had 
complained  to  the  governor  of  being  thus  watched ;  but 
he  excused  his  Government  with  the  barefaced  assertion 
that  "they  were  sent  along  with  us  to  keep  us  from  get- 
ting lost,  and  not  as  spies  upon  our  movements,"  adding 
that  "if  we  did  not  want  them  we  had  only  to  send  them 


}V  • ,..  .    ■■•\ 


<^^  A 


^ji 


!jS*-;:-;V 


MAHOMET   AND    THE    MOUNTAIN.  213 

away.''  This  Avas  all  very  fair,  apparently,  but  when  we 
had  "sent  them  away"  they  wouldnH  cjo^ — affecting  not  to 
understand  us ;  and  so  this  time  we  had  gone  on  shore 
determined  to  give  the  first  fellow  who  couldn't  under- 
stand our  signs  to  return,  a  good  kicking,  and,  if  neces- 
sary, a  thumping  besides.  The  opportunity  for  resorting 
to  this  practical  mode  of  explanation  soon  presented  itself. 

"We  had  not  passed  the  spy-house  more  than  a  hundred 
yards,  when  a  couple  of  two-s worded  officers  were  ob- 
8er\^ed  to  be  following  us,  and  before  walking  another 
hundred  they  were  within  speaking-distance.  We 
stopped  to  let  them  come  up,  but  they  also  came  to  a 
halt :  it  was  evidently  a  case  of  "  Mahomet  and  the 
mountain,"  and  so  Mahomet  boldly  returned  to  the 
mountain. 

This  action  on  the  part  of  the  prophet  was  evidently 
regarded  in  a  threatening  light  by  the  two  who  composed 
the  mountain :  they  looked  just  like  over-curious  ser- 
vants detected  by  their  master  in  the  act  of  eavesdrop- 
ping. 

Mahomet  took  half  of  the  mountain  by  the  shoulders, 
caused  him  to  "right-about  face,"  and  then  made  signs 
that  we  were  going  north,  and  that  they,  the  mountain, 
were  expected  to  move  off  in  a  southerly  direction.  This 
they  "couldn't  understand"  through  the  medium  of  the 
senses  of  sight  and  hearing,  and  so  Mahomet  resorted  to 
his  heav}^  boot  and  the  half-mountain's  sense  of  feeling. 
I  never  saw  such  a  kick  in  my  previous  life,  and  but  one 
subsequently  that  at  all  approached  it.  It  caused  one- 
half  of  the  mountain  to  tremble  to  his  very  base  and 
then  take  up  his  uneven  flight  for  the  friendly  shelter  of 


214       VERY    MUCH    CONFUSE    AND    SOMEWHAT    FATIGUE. 

the  spy-house,  where  he  sank  exhausted  upon  the  soft 
matting,  and  as  we  looked  back  we  coukl  see  him  ges- 
ticulating violently  in  our  direction ;  and  it  caused  the 
other  half  to  place  his  hand  indignantly  upon  his  sword 
until  Mahomet  made  a  demonstration  in  his  direction, 
when  he  followed  his  more  bulky  companion  with  alarmed 
activity.  Our  path  was  crossed  by  no  more  mountains 
that  day, — many  rough  hills,  and  no  end  of  watercourses 
and  rocky  roads;  but  no  more  mountains.  Mahomet 
looked  as  large  as  two  ordinary  men  after  the  successful 
accomplishment  of  this  feat,  and  as  we  crossed  the  broken 
waters  of  the  river  Inodzu-gama  by  a  bridge  of  planks 
nailed  on  the  heads  of  numerous  piles,  we  talked  quite 
triumphantly  of  our  victory,  and  almost  wished  that  we 
had  another  two-sworded  officer  to  exercise  upon. 

Our  friend  "Mahomet"  was  no  other  than  Lawton;  and 
since  that  kick  I  have  entertained  the  most  profound  ad- 
miration for  his  understanding. 

It  was  a  beautiful  valley  that  we  were  now  ascending, 
— wildly  beautiful  in  its  strange  isolation  from  the  world, 
in  its  irregular  formation,  in  its  short  and  angular  turn- 
ings, in  the  clear  and  limpid  stream  which,  flowing 
through  its  highly-cultivated  centre,  followed  its  every 
turning  and  here  and  there  approached  the  jutting  feet 
of  the  mountains  on  either  side  ;  wildly  beautiful  in  the 
dense  and  unknown  foliage,  in  grove  after  grove  of  the 
wax-like  japonica,  in  the  startled  flight  of  brilliant  birds, 
in  the  sudden  dash  of  the  mountain-trout,  and  in  the 
shady  cottages  of  the  unknown  people. 

We  had  much  to  see,  more  to  think  about,  still  more 
that  was  lost  to  us.    Who  ever  yet  saw  all  that  was  worth 


HOW   TO    EXCITE   JAPANESE    CURIOSITY.  215 

seeing  during  his  first  walk  in  the  strange  hind  of  a  still 
stranger  people  ?  Sometimes  we  would  leave  the  highway 
that  followed  along  the  river's  bank,  and,  following  a 
winding  footpath,  come  suddenly  upon  some  rural  habi- 
tation and  its  startled  occupants.  Then  what  a  scene  of 
noise  and  confusion  would  ensue!  Dogs  barking  and 
slinking  oif  behind  corners,  children  screaming  and 
clinging  to  their  mothers  for  protection,  while  the  mo- 
thers themselves,  in  some  cases,  wrung  their  hands  and 
blubbered  like  so  many  children, — everybody  and  every 
thing  flying  from  us  as  if  destruction  existed  in  our  very 
appearance.  By  the  men  onl}-  were  we,  as  a  general  rule, 
diflferently  received;  and  even  they  often  avoided  us,  or 
approached  with  distrustful  glances,  as  their  retreating 
household  left  them  alone  with  the  "  Amelikins." 

We  generally  commenced  these  interviews  by  exclaim- 
ing "  Ohio,"  (good-morning,)  then  shaking  hands  with 
friendly  energy,  next  addressing  them  as  "John,"  and 
finally  producing  a  cigar  for  each  of  the  party.  These 
they  would  light  with  great  difficulty,  watching  our  mo- 
tions very  closel}^,  soon  tire  of  smoking  them,  put  them 
aside  carefully,  and  end  by  lighting  their  own  small  pipes 
and  offering  us  a  puff,  while  waxing  bold  enough  to 
feel  the  texture  of  our  clothes,  examine  our  boots,  &c.  &c. 
About  this  period  of  the  action  we  would  produce  a  watch, 
revolver,  box  of  matches,  or  some  equally,  to  them,  un- 
known principle,  and  explain  its  mechanism  or  use ;  and 
before  ending  we  were  generally  surrounded  by  the  entire 
family, — women,  children,  and  dogs, — all  apparently  (not 
even  excepting  the  latter)  equally  curious  to  see  "what 
the  row  was."     What  wonders  the  feeling  of  curiosity 


216  "nipon"  and  "amelika." 

will  effect !  It  was  our  most  powerful  lever  in  working 
ourselves  into  the  good  graces  of  those  singular  but — I 
mean  the  masses — well-meaning  people. 

The  motion  of  the  watch  seemed  to  afford  them  more 
satisfaction  than  any  thing  else ;  and,  by  pointing  to  the 
sun  and  the  hour-hand  alternately,  making  various  signs, 
and  using  a  few  disconnected  words  of  their  language, 
which  we  would  acquire  expressly  for  these  walks,  we 
generally  gave  them  a  very  fair  idea  of  its  use  and  value. 
They  were  also  much  amazed  at  our  revolvers,  making 
signs  that  one  American  was  more  than  equal  to  six  Ja- 
panese, and  that  "Nipon"  and  "Amelika"  must  always 
be  friends. 

When  we  would  get  up  to  leave,  after  all  this,  they 
would  press  around  to  shake  hands,  and  often  accompa- 
nied us  some  distance  on  our  walk.  They  seemed  to 
pass  at  once  from  a  state  of  distrust  to  one  of  perfect 
confidence,  and  would  laugh  heartily  at  other  parties 
who,  seeing  us  suddenly  round  a  corner,  would  drop 
their  baskets  or  bundles  and  run  for  dear  life,  until  re- 
assured by  a  well-known  voice  or  familiar  face.  We 
could  not  avoid  the  conviction  that  the  officials  had  im- 
pressed the  people  with  the  idea  that  we  were  cut- 
throats, &c.,  and  that  they  would  best  consult  their  own 
safety  by  avoiding  all  communication.  At  any  rate,  they 
always  received  us  distrustfully  and  parted  from  us  in 
the  utmost  good-humour. 

It  was  in  this  way  that  we  continued  our  walk  up  the 
romantic  valley  until  1  p.m.,  when  we  reached  a  wayside 
tavern,  where  we  wiped  our  heated  brows,  pulled  off  our 
heavy  boots,  and  stretched  out  ujion  the  clean-looking, 


A   JAPANESE    PUBLICAN.  217 

cushion-like  mats  with  which  the  floors  of  their  houses 
are  always  spread.  There  are  wayside  taverns  in  Japan 
as  well  as  in  the  rest  of  the  world,  reader,  and  the  pub- 
lican of  this  particular  one  was  a  fine-looking  old  man, 
with  an  upright  frame,  an  expansive  forehead,  a  mild 
blue  eye,  and  a  general  cast  of  features  that  partook  as 
much  of  the  Caucasian  as  of  the  Mongolian  race.  He 
received  us  without  the  slightest  hesitation  of  manner, — 
in  fact,  with  polite  self-possession,  {lie  had  evidently  been 
thrown  in  contact  with  foreigners  before,  possibly  with 
members  of  Perry's  squadron  at  Si-mo-da,) — and  drew  us 
off  several  cups  of  saki  from  one  of  his  numerous  hogs- 
beads.  He  also  called  his  wife  and  daughters  to  see  the 
"Amelikins,"  and  they  approached  without  the  usual 
signs  of  distrust,  smiling  good-humouredly,  and  giving 
utterance  to  several  connected  words,  which,  judging 
from  the  morning  compliments  usually  indulged  in  by 
the  ladies  of  our  own  land,  we  concluded  had  some  bear- 
ing upon  the  "general  state  of  the  weather  and  upon  the 
heat  of  our  walk  in  particular;"  but  of  this  we  were 
never  fully  satisfied^ 

In  the  mean  time,  the  old  gentleman  began  spitting 
several  fine  specimens  of  mountain-trout  and  sticking 
them  upright  before  the  fire,  intimating,  by  signs,  that 
they  would  soon  be  done,  and  that  they  would  agree  well 
with  the  saki.  We  very  shortly  proved  the  truth  of  his 
signs,  to  our  entire  satisfaction. 

"We  then,  in  turn,  produced  our  lunch,  of  which  they 
all  partook  sparingly,  tasting  each  different  article,  such 
as  cold  ham,  sardines,  loaf-bread,  claret,  &c.,  and  then 
passing  it  to  their  next  neighbour.    They  seemed  pleased 


218  VOTE    OF   THANKS   TO    "MAHOMET." 

with  them  all,  save  the  claret,  over  which  they  made 
awfully  wry  faces — there  is  no  denying  that  it  loas  a 
little  sour — and  compared  it  to  vinegar,  which  latter  is 
with  them  an  article  of  great  consumption.  We  passed 
an  hour  in  this  way  very  pleasantly,  and  then  hauled  on 
our  boots,  which  had  previously  been  passing  the  rounds 
as  objects  of  great  admiration,  bade  our  kind  hosts  fare- 
well, and,  leaving  the  river  at  right  angles,  struck  over 
the  mountain  for  the  sea,  supposing  it  to  be  distant  about 
two  or  three  miles. 

We  had  a  tough  climb  up  the  ravine-paths ;  but  the 
work  of  surveying  had  well  used  us  to  exertion  of  that 
nature,  and  at  the  end  of  an  hour  we  were  looking  down 
from  a  rocky  pass,  between  two  neighbouring  peaks, 
upon  the  distant  sea.  We  were  surprised  at  its  great 
distance, — at  least  three  or  four  miles  to  the  beach,  and 
six  or  eight  more  along  the  beach  to  Si-mo-da.  We 
began  to  think  that  we  might  have  to  sleep  on  shore 
after  all ;  but,  by  driving  steadily  ahead,  having  the  good 
fortune  not  to  get  lost,  and  resisting  the  temptation  to  stop 
at  the  inviting  villages  through  which  we  passed,  we 
reached  our  boat  in  good  time,  and  took  our  friend  Bri- 
dleman  on  board  with  us  to  a  dinner  by  candlelight. 

That  same  night  the  affair  of  "Mahomet  and  the 
mountain"  spread  around  the  mess  like  wildfire,  and 
resulted  in  a  vote  of  thanks  being  tendered  the  former 
for  his  gallant  bearing,  and  a  resolution  that  "  we  do 
likewise  to  the  first  two-sworded  officer  who  presumes  to 
follow  us  hereafter." 

It  was  not  long  before  an  opportunity  for  testing  our 
determination   to  "do   likewise"   presented  itself;    and 


CONVERSATION  AFTER  ANOTHER  KICK.       219 

this  second  argument  was  urged  with  even  more  spirit 
and  determination  than  the  first,  simply  from  the  fact 
that  we  now  felt  convinced  there  would  be  no  fighting, 
whereas,  in  the  first  attempt,  no  one  knew  but  that  we 
might  have  been  "catching  a  tartar"  instead  of  kicking 
a  Japanese.  This  second  afi'air  occurred  some  miles 
from  Si-mo-da,  near  another  roadside  inn.  I  take  the 
following  extract,  as  to  what  followed  it,  from  my 
papers : — 

"Having  thus,  by  a  healthy  kick  and  a  show  of  further 
violence,  relieved  ourselves  of  our  noble  companions,  we 
now  passed  a  quiet  hour  with  our  plebeian  friends  and 
then  continued  our  now  unmolested  walk.  Our  conver- 
sation with  said  '  scum  of  the  earth'  (as  the  officers  call 
all  of  the  swordless  class)  was  necessarily  carried  on  by 
the  usual  signs,  grimaces,  &c.,  sprinkled  here  and  there 
by  a  few  words  which  we  knew  by  heart  or  had  written 
on  paper ;  and  yet  one  would  be  astonished  to  see  how 
well  people  can  often  get  along  in  that  way.  Among 
other  things,  we  had  no  difficulty  in  comprehending  the 
following  pieces  of  information : — 

" '  "We  are  very  glad  that  you  kicked  him ;  but,  had  one 
of  us  done  so,  his  head  would  have  been  cut  off.' 

" '  We  work,  and  iheij  walk  around.  We  have  to  give 
them  money  to  buy  food  with.' 

" '  We  would  like  very  much  to  know  all  about  you,  to 
buy  and  sell  with  you,  but  the}/ won't  let  us.' 

"'We  cannot  do  what  the  officials  do  not  want  us 
to,'  &c.  &c." 

Now,  from  the  above  and  various  other  remarks, — 
which  I  do  not  remember, — we  could  not  but  conclude 


220  A    GRAND    CHANCE    FOR    "  FILLIBUSTERS." 

that  the  people  of  Japan  are  as  ripe  for  revolt  as  the  most 
violent  flibustier  could  desire,  while,  at  the  same  time, 
we  were  forced  to  acknowledge  that  they  were  kepi  under 
more  effectually  than  any  nation  under  the  sun.  Pro- 
bably, a  latent  inclination  to  revolt  among  the  masses 
tirst  gave  rise  to  extreme  severity  on  the  part  of  their 
rulers,  as  a  precautionary  measure.  In  speaking  of  the 
masses,  I  include  merchants,  (many  of  whom  are  worth 
more  money  than  many  of  the  nobles,)  farmers,  priests, 
artisans  of  every  description,  tailors,  sailors,  fishermen, 
publicans,  and,  in  short,  everybody  in  Japan  whose  birth 
or  services  to  the  state  have  not  given  him  the  right  of 
wearing  two  swords  stuck  through  his  sash. 

So   much  for  strolls  through  the   country  adjoining 
Si-mo-da. 


CHAPTER  Xin. 

SOMETHING    ABOUT    BUYING   AND     SELLING    IN   JAPAN,    AND  HOW   THEY   USED 

COMMODOKE     perry's     TREATY    TO     SWINDLE    US ALSO,  HOW    THEY    ASK 

FOREIGNERS    TO    LET    PEOPLE    ENJOY    THEIR    MEALS    IN  QUIET,    AND   HOW 
A     FOREIGNER    FELT    UNUSUALLY    SMALL. 

Before  I  commence  to  show  how  it  was  that  we  went 
to  the  bazaar  and  how  we  were  swindled  in  various  ways, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the 
comparative  value  of  Japanese  and  American  money ; 
and  this  calls  for  a  slight  digression. 

It  had  been  the  "Japanese  fashion,"  from  time  im- 
memorial, to  make  presents  of  every  thing  that  left 
the  country ;  that  is,  a  strange  ship  would  arrive  off 
one  of  their  ports,  and,  while  refusing  to  let  her  an- 
chor, they  would  nevertheless  furnish  her,  free  of 
charge,  with  all  such  things  as  wood,  water,  provisions, 
&c.,  and  then  order  her  away.  Of  course  I  except  in 
this  the  regular  vessels  of  the  Dutch,  which  arrived  at 
Nan-ga-sa-ki  twice  every  year,  and  with  which  they  traded 
quite  largely,  though  under  certain  very  degrading  re- 
quirements at  the  hands  of  these  latter.  For  instance, 
they  were  confined  to  their  ships,  guarded  with  insult- 
ing closeness,  and  required  to  be  basely  deferential  to 
their  stupid  customs  and  arrogant  officials.  And  these 
sycophantic  Netherlanders  were,  and  had  been  since 
the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits,  the  most  favoured  of  nations. 

221 


222  ITZABU   vs.  DOLLAK. 

Commodore  Perry's  treaty,  however,  having  just  been 
signed  before  our  arrival,  we  now  had  the  liberty,  through 
it,  of  landing  and  walking  where  we  would.  Hence  it  was 
supposed  that  we  had  the  right  to  enter  any  man's  store 
and  purchase  that  article  which  most  suited  our  taste 
and  pocket.  But,  as  the  merchant  would  in  this  case 
receive  all  the  profit,  the  sleepless  policy  of  that  astute 
Government  had  taken  care  to  introduce  a  defensive 
article  in  the  treaty,  which  provided  that  "Americans 
should  purchase  every  thing  through  the  officers  of  the 
Government."  After  which,  vendors  of  all  ranks  and 
classes  were  given  to  understand  that  they  were  not  to 
sell  to  any  American  except  through  an  officer,  upon  pain 
of  losing  their  heads.  Thus  they  had  it  arranged  quite 
smoothl}"  for  the  Government,  and  the  revenue  thus 
resulting  was  at  least  worth  the  trouble  attendant  upon 
the  conception  and  execution  of  the  idea, — which  idea 
amounted  to  the  following  in  plain  English : — 

"These  Americans,"  they  said  to  themselves,  (those 
of  Perry's  squadron,)  "know  a  great  deal  about  China. 
An  American  dollar  is  worth  in  China  from  fourteen  to 
sixteen  hundred  cash,  and  a  Japanese  itzabu  is  worth  in 
Japan  sixteen  hundred  cash,  also.  An  American  dollar 
has  a  little  more  silver  in  it  than  three  of  our  itzabu  ;  so, 
if  we  can  make  it  by  treaty  equal  to  only  sixteen  hun- 
dred cash,  we  can  receive  them  in  payment  at  that  rate, 
pass  them  through  the  mint,  and — presto! — they  are 
divided  into  three,  each  of  which  is  worth  as  much  as 
what  we  received  it  for." 

Now,  so  far  as  I  can  see,  there  is  nothing  but  a  very 
grand  rascality  and  considerable  cunning  in  the  conccp- 


ONE    OF    THE    RESULTS    OF   "  PERRY'S   TREATY."         223 

tion  of  the  above  idea ;  but  it  is  passing  singular  that 
they  should  have  executed  it  successfully  against  Yankee 
forethought,  or  even,  indeed,  against  ordinary  common 
sense. 

How  was  so  great  a  mistake  committed  by  Commodore 
Perry?  One  asks  in  vain.  We  only  know  from  sad 
experience  that  it  loas  committed,  and  that  the  conse- 
quence of  this  depreciated  value  being  attached  to  our 
coin  results  in  a  duty  of  just  two  hundred  per  cent,  being 
paid  to  the  emperor  on  all  American  silver  that  enters 
Japan  from  American  pockets,  and  that  we  Americans 
are  the  ones  who  pay  that  duty. 

"When  payment  was  made  in  gold  we  lost  this  same 
two  hundred  per  cent.,  but  the  emperor  gained  little 
or  nothing.  The  reason  of  this  was  that  the  difference 
between  the  value  of  gold  and  silver  was  much  less  than 
in  other  parts  of  the  world.  So  much  for  the  way  in 
which  Commodore  Perry  was  weathered;  and  now  for 
the  fleecing  consequences  which  it  entailed  on  us. 

We  made  quite  a  grand  display  as  we  landed  from  our 
ten  or  a  dozen  boats  and  formed  in  marching-order 
under  the  dense  shade  of  the  grand  old  trees  that  lined 
the  landing,  while  two  drums  and  a  fife  took  the 
head  of  the  column  and  enlivened  us  with  "both  vocal 
and  instrumental  music."  We  were  all  in  uniform, 
swords  and  cocked  hats  being  the  order  of  the  day; 
and,  to  judge  from  the  great  numbers  of  the  fair  sex 
that  crowded  the  streets  through  which  we  passed, 
there  were  weak  heads  in  Japan  also,  who,  like  two 
out  of  three  similar  heads  in  other  parts  of  the  world, 
were  too  apt  to  judge  birds  by  their  feathers. 


224  A   JAPANESE   BAZAAR. 

And  now,  as  we  approach  the  bazaar,  let  us  take  a 
bird's-eye  view  of  its  construction  and  general  appear- 
ance. 

It  was  never  my  fortune  to  see  either  a  saw-mill  or 
pit  in  Japan;  and  yet  this  building  was  got  up  with 
very  fair  jpine  hoards  that  had  evidently  been  sawed.  They 
were  rough  and  unplaned,  truly ;  but  then  that  only  let 
one  see  that  they  had  been  sawed  and  not  hewn.  The 
building;  itself  covered  about  three-fourths  of  an  acre 
of  ground,  was  perfectly  square,  some  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  one-storied,  and  enclosed  an  immense  square 
court,  whose  area  was  probably  greater  than  that  of 
the  building  itself.  Its  roof  was  thatched  and  sloped  to- 
ward the  court,  and  it  was  possessed  of  but  one  entrance. 
In  short,  it  was  nothing  but  four  equally  long,  wide,  and 
high  sheds  put  together  so  as  to  form  a  square,  and 
having  a  door  left  in  one  of  said  sides  near  one  of  the 
corners.  It  had,  like  the  spy-houses,  been  built  solely 
for  us  and  since  our  arrival,  and  would,  like  them,  be 
torn  down  after  our  departure. 

We  entered  at  the  solitary  door,  and,  like  so  many 
children  in  a  toyshop  with  an  unexpected  supply  of 
pocket-money  at  their  disposal,  looked  around  upon 
the  brilliant  display,  and  confused  ourselves  by  wonder- 
ing which  we  were  to  admire  most,  which  we  were  to 
pass  by,  and  which  to  linger  over. 

Two  of  the  four  shed-like  sides  of  the  building  were 
divided  off  into  stalls,  one  of  which  was  furnished  to  each 
merchant  to  enable  him  to  display  specimens  of  his  wares  to 
the  best  advantage ;  while  the  spaces  immediately  in  front 
of  the  stalls  were  covered  by  boxes  containing  the  wares, 


CONTENTS  OF  THE  STALLS.  225 

of  whicli  those  on  the  shelves  were  only  samples.  They 
evidently  expected  us  to  purchase  largely,  thinking  pro- 
bably that  we  came  as  much  on  a  speculating  voyage  as 
any  thing  else.  Of  the  remaining  two  sides,  one  was 
vacant,  while  the  other  was  divided  into  one  large  and 
two  small  apartments, — the  former  of  which  was  neatly 
covered  with  cushion-like  matting  and  given  to  us  as  a 
lounging-place,  while  the  two  latter  were  appropriated 
by  the  Government-officials  who  had  charge  of  the 
affiiir  as  an  office  and  spy-room.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  spy-room  joined  the  gate :  they  saw  every  thing. 

As  we  passed  leisurely  from  one  stall  to  another,  we 
remarked  a  great  sameness  in  their  general  appearance. 
There  was  but  one  which  differed  materially  from  the 
others,  and  there  the  difference  consisted  in  its  being 
filled  with  china  instead  of  lacquer-ware.  But  such 
china  as  it  was ! — superior  by  far  to  the  most  delicate 
French  porcelain,  and  infinitely  more  cheap,  in  spite 
of  the  depreciation  of  our  money. 

The  other  stalls  were  just  like  so  many  "  old- curiosity 

shops," — a  little  of  every  thing  Japanese  being  to  be  found 

on  their  shelves,  from  the  purchase  of  which  the  least 

possible  amount  of  use  was  ever   to  flow.      Like  the 

porcelain,  the  lacquer-ware  was  of    the  most  beautiful 

description,  and  exceeded  that  of  China  as  greatly  as  did 

said  porcelain  the  most  ordinary  stone  crockery.     One 

piece   I    remember  in  particular,  the   gorgeousness  of 

whose  colouring  attracted  the  admiration  of  every  one  as 

he  passed  it.     It  was  a  most  happy  and  truthful  imitation 

of  an  ordinary  "red-fish"  (such  as  are  caught  in  the  Gulf 

of  Mexico)  of  some  eighteen  inches  in  length ;  and,  upon 

15 


226  PAPER    UMBRELLAS    AND    RAIN-CLOAKS. 

attempting  to  take  it  up  by  the  side-fin  to  examine  it  more 
closely,  two-thirds  of  its  top-side  was  lifted  off,  showing 
it  to  be  a  dish  capable  of  holding  a  large  boiled  or  baked 
fish.  They  told  us  it  was  made  to  hold  such  a  dish  at  the 
feasts  of  the  "big  bugs"  of  Japan,  and  that  the  lacquer 
was  so  fine  that  hot  water  exercised  no  power  upon  it. 
This  they  said  of  a  great  deal  of  their  best  lacquer-ware, 
and  the  truth  of  their  assertion  we  subsequently  proved 
at  our  own  mess-table.  From  what  we  then  and  have 
since  observed,  we  all  came  to  the  conclusion  that  they 
are  infinitely  superior  to  all  other  nations  as  far  as  regards 
the  quality  of  their  porcelain,  lacquer-ware,  and  swords. 

Among  a  number  of  other  articles,  all  well  worthy  of  a 
passing  notice,  we  saw  umbrellas  and  rain-cloaks,  both 
of  them  being  made  entirely  of  the  bamboo-plant  and  a 
vegetable  oil  the  name  of  which  I  now  forget.  They 
make  paper  from  the  above  useful  plant  which  is  as 
strong  and  lasting  as  the  best  calico,  and  which,  when 
well  oiled,  becomes  ^:)a/ec%  ivater-proof.  Expose  your- 
self to  an  hour's  hard  rain  with  one  of  those  hooded 
cloaks  on,  or  with  one  of  those  umbrellas  over  your  head, 
and  you  come  out  of  it  as  dry  as  j'ou  went  in.  I  myself 
used  one  of  the  former  on  constant  boat-service  during  a 
period  of  several  months,  and  found  it  to  answer  admi- 
rably ;  and,  at  the  end  of  that  time,  I  drew  forth  warm 
thanks  from  a  friend  in  San  Francisco  to  whom  I  pre- 
sented it :  it  was  still  water-proof. 

There  were  also  a  great  variety  of  a  species  of  litho- 
graphic engraving  exposed  in  piles  for  sale  on  some  of 
the  shelves,  of  which  several  of  us  purchased  largely. 
They  did  not  exhibit  any  remarkable  art  as  far  as  the 


THE   EMPEROR   BECOMES   ALARMED.  227 

"getting  up"  was  concerned;  but  we  valued  tliem  as 
specimens  of  the  art,  nevertheless.  "We  had  heard  much 
of  the  accuracy  of  the  Japanese  pencil  and  brush ;  but 
their  lithographs  did  not  argue  any  great  beauty  in  the 
originals.  They  generally  referred  to  Fu-si-ya-ma,  (their 
sacred  mountain,)  to  scenes  from  city  and  country  life, 
to  their  various  games,  to  distorted  male  and  female 
figures,  or  to  public  buildings.  These  latter  were  appa- 
rently truthful;  but  all  of  the  others  partook  more  of 
the  nature  of  caricatures  than  of  natural  appearances, 
and  were  undoubtedly  calculated  to  impart  an  exagge- 
rated and  distorted  idea  of  most  of  the  subjects  to  which 
they  referred;  as,  for  instance : — 

There  was  one  scene  of  a  trial  of  strength  between 
two  wrestlers,  in  which  they  must  have  weighed  (com- 
paring them  with  the  figures  of  the  audience)  from  seven 
to  eight  hundred  pounds  each,  while  their  surplus  fat 
hung  about  their  huge  necks  and  shoulders  like  the  folds 
of  the  skin  of  the  rhinoceros.  These  fellows  were 
wrestling  on  the  "sawdusted"  pit  of  an  immense  amphi- 
theatre, the  seats  of  which  were  crowded  with  an  ad- 
miring audience,  while  the  referees  stood  ofi*  in  two 
separate  parties. 

While  we  were  looking  at  these  lithographs,  orders 
came  from  Yeddo  to  stop  the  sale  of  them ;  and  this,  of 
course,  only  made  us  more  anxious  to  buy.  The  shop- 
men, however,  would  no  longer  sell,  and,  upon  our  apply- 
ing to  Tatz-nosky,  he  replied  that  the  emperor  thought 
they  would  give  too  good  an  idea  of  what  was  going  on 
in  Japan,  and  had  ordered  that  they  be  all  returned  to 
Yeddo.     Upon  hearing  this,  we  at  once  went  through  the 


228  WHAT  THEY  DO  NOT  SELL. 

different  stalls  before  tliey  had  a  chance  to  pack  them 
away,  and  took  under  our  arms  every  picture  that  we 
could  lay  our  hands  upon.  Of  course  the  merchants  said 
that  we  could  not  have  them ;  that  they  were  not  for  sale, 
— only  to  be  looked  at ;  that  they  would  not  receive  pay 
for  them;  that  their  heads  would  be  cut  off,  &c.  &c. :  but 
we  nevertheless  carried  them  quietly  on  board,  and  the 
next  day  they,  in  as  quiet,  matter-of-course  a  manner, 
received  payment  for  them,  while  their  heads  were  still 
in  their  usual  place. 

Thus  it  was  that  pictures  of  every  description  were 
added  to  the  list  of  articles  which,  by  express  orders  of 
the  emperor,  were  not  to  be  sold,  bartered,  or  given  to 
persons  living  outside  of  Japan.  And,  while  making 
this  remark,  I  may  as  well  mention  as  many  of  those 
reserved  articles  as  I  can  recall.  In  the  first  place,  then, 
there  were  their  swords ;  secondly,  every  thing  in  the 
shape  of  an  offensive  or  defensive  weapon,  all  of  the 
tools  of  the  various  trades,  and  the  coinage  of  the  country. 
Then  there  were  these  engravings  descriptive  of  Japanese 
life,  and  a  variety  of  other  articles  which  I  cannot  now 
remember.  And  as  fast  as  any  thing  was  thus  embargoed 
it  was  immediately  packed  up  and  sent  back  into  the 
country. 

It  took  us  several  hours  to  see  enough  of  the  varied 
and  beautiful  display  of  the  rare  specimens  of  their  un- 
known workmanship  that  were  crowded  upon  the  shelves 
and  floors  of  every  stall ;  but  the  thing  which  surprised 
us  most  was  to  see  the  prices  of  the  various  articles 
marked  on  them  in  dollars  and  cents,  just  as  one  sees 
them  pinned  on  goods  exposed  as  samples  in  the  win- 


TATZ-NOSKY   AND    NOAH   WEBSTER.  229 

dows  and  at  the  doors  of  our  own  shops.  I  subsequently 
learned  the  secret  of  this  from  Tatz-nosky,  who — with  an 
unabridged  edition  of  Koah  Webster's  dictionary,  and  an 
immense  pile  of  scattering  pieces  of  information  in  the 
shape  of  symbols,  detached  words,  and  sentences  obtained 
from  the  officers  of  Perry's  and  our  squadrons,  at  his 
elbow — was  rapidly,  and  with  dogged  perseverance, 
informing  himself  as  to  our  language  and  customs  in 
general.  I  could  not  but  conclude  that  the  Japanese 
would  soon  know  much  more  about  us  than  we  ever 
should  about  them,  unless  another  treaty  should  more 
fully  open  their  ports.  Once  let  Tatz-nosky  and  his 
brother-interpreters  master  the  English  language,  once 
let  books  be  introduced  into  Japan,  and  the  day  of  their 
stupid  seclusion  will  be  past. 

When  I  asked  him  how  these  prices  had  been  ob- 
tained, he  was  candid  enough  to  acknowledge  that  the 
difierent  merchants  had  requested  him  to  write  them  on 
slips  of  papers,  and  that  they  paid  him  quite  hand- 
somely. He  had  his  pocket-book  at  the  time  filled  with 
slips  of  bamboo-paper,  on  which  he  wrote  different  values 
in  both  Japanese  and  English  as  he  was  applied  to  by  the 
merchants.  Tatz-nosky  was  evidently  wide  awake  as  to 
the  propriety  of  turning  an  honest  itzabu. 

The  merchants,  therefore,  having  to  pay  for  these  tal- 
lies, were  loath  to  let  them  go  w^ith  the  goods.  Thus,  when 
any  thing  was  bought,  they  invariably  took  them  off  and 
stowed  them  away  as  one  would  a  bank-note ;  but  many 
of  us,  wishing  to  pack  our  things  Jm.?^  as  tlwj  stood,  objected 
to  this  practice,  and  were,  in  return,  often  charged  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  cash  (three  to  six  cents)  for  this  luxury 


230  HOW   THEY   SET    TRAPS    IN   JAPAN. 

of  letting  our  friends  at  home  see  their  presents  just  as 
we  had  seen  them  in  Japan. 

They  were  cunning  enough,  too,  as  far  as  disposing 
of  inferior  goods  was  concerned,  for  they  only  brought 
out  these  at  first,  reserving  the  others  for  the  last  few 
days  of  our  stay.  We  did  not  see  any  of  their  "  number 
one"  specimens  during  our  first  or  second  visit,  and, 
when  we  asked  in  regard  to  them,  they  would  insist  that 
"we  saw  all ;  they  knew  of  nothing  else,"  &c.  They  were 
evidently  anxious  to  dispose  of  the  inferior  lot  first,  after 
which  they  knew  that  we  would  not  fail  to  be  disgusted 
with  our  purchases  as  soon  as  the  higher-priced  ones 
should  be  exposed,  and  then  we  would  be  certain  to  lay 
out  more  money.  And  they  were  right;  for,  although 
the  most  of  us  returned  on  board  the  first  day  without 
making  any  purchases,  still,  we  "caved  in"  on  the  second 
day  and  bought  quite  freely.  Then,  on  the  third  day, 
they  commenced  bringing  in  the  high-priced  articles, 
and  we  began  falling  into  the  trap. 

Day  after  day,  therefore,  as  we  returned  and  lounged 
through  the  crowded  showrooms,  new  articles  of  unex- 
pected beauty  and  rare  excellence  of  workmanship  would 
rise  before  us  at  every  turn,  cast  a  shade  over  every  thing 
of  the  kind  previously  bought,  and  cause  us  to  long  for 
heavier  pockets  or  more  reasonable  charges. 

Oh !  they  were  a  cunning,  a  most  dishonest  set  of  fel- 
lows, those  very  Japanese  merchants,  holding  up  their 
wares  before  us,  and  tempting  us  to  board  the  shrinking 
purser  for  various  sums  until  we  finally  found  ourselves 
heels  over  head  in  debt!  They  would  watch  us  with 
"crickets'  eyes,"  while  we  examined  their  various  articles. 


PUT   HIM    IN   A   BOX.  231 

judge  witli  astonishing  accuracy  as  to  those  with  which  we 
seemed  most  struck,  and  the  next  day  all  similar  articles 
would  be  advanced  in  price,  sometimes  as  much  as  a 
hundred  per  cent.  They  would  take  the  tallies  ofl'  at 
night,  and  put  on  others  with  higher  marks  on  them, 
and  then  insist,  with  their  usual  barefaced  disregard  for 
truth,  that  "all  the  same  as  yesterday."  This  was  all 
very  provoking,  truly ;  and  yet  what  could  we  do  ?  We 
had  either  to  consent,  in  the  first  place,  to  be  swindled 
by  the  treaty,  and,  in  the  second  place,  by  the  merchants 
themselves,  or  we  must  leave  Japan  without  purchasing 
presents  of  their  rare  and  beautiful  workmanship  for  our 
absent  friends.  We  chose  the  former  of  the  two,  and, 
with  the  unenviable  feelings  of  men  who  are  aware  of 
the  fleecing  they  are  being  subjected  to  without  the 
most  remote  hope  of  being  able  to  protect  themselves, 
we  continued  our  daily  selections. 

We  were  even  denied  the  pleasure  (?)  of  haggling 
over  the  price  of  things  with  any  prospect  of  success. 
There  was  nothing  like  that  there.  There  it  was  in  bold 
relief,  written  in  the  plainest  of  both  English  and  Ja- 
panese ;  so  we  only  had  to  say  the  magic  words,  "  Put 
him  in  a  box,"  or,  "Put  him  in  paper,"  or  pass  on  to 
some  other  article  more  or  less  expensive.  Those 
"magic  words"  require  a  word  of  explanation. 

As  a  general  rule,  the  Japanese  make  neat  boxes  of  a 
species  of  white  cedar  for  their  lacquer-ware,  &c.,  when 
it  is  of  ordinary,  fair,  or  No.  1  quality;  but  for  the  in- 
ferior articles  they  use  paper  as  wrappings.  While  ex- 
posed for  sale,  all  of  the  former  were  set  on  the  top  of 
their  empty  boxes,  while  the  latter  were  stowed  en  masse 


232  NO   PUT   HIM    IN   A    BOX  ! 

and  treated  generally  with  much  less  consideration.  As 
soon,  therefore,  as  a  thing  would  be  bought,  we  would  be 
more  than  likely  to  say,  "  Put  it  in  a  box,"  or,  "  Put  it  in 
paper,"  or  something  of  that  sort;  and  their  watchful 
ears  soon  caught  these  sounds,  while  their  observing 
eyes  told  them  that  whenever  they  were  uttered  some- 
thing was  always  bought.  So,  with  a  very  imperfect 
idea  of  what  "put  him  in  a  box"  meant,  they  would 
watch  us  with  their  glittering  eyes  as  we  lingered  over 
their  wares,  and  encourage  us  to  purchase  by  using  that 
expression  from  time  to  time  as  they  observed  us  to 
hesitate.  After  a  while,  they  arrived  at  its  exact  mean- 
ing, but  had  got  so  used  to  it  by  that  time,  that,  when 
any  thing  whose  quality  did  not  entitle  it  to  a  box  was 
bought,  they  could  only  hold  it  and  remark,  in  a  manner 
of  nonplussed  inquiry,  '•'■No  put  him  in  a  box!"  which 
we  found  to  mean  that  they  could  only  afford  to  wrap  it 
up  in  paper. 

As  we  selected  the  different  things  in  this  way,  we 
were  followed  by  one,  two,  or  three  boys,  as  the  extent 
of  our  purchase  might  call  for.  As  fast  as  an  article  was 
l)Ought,  we  entered  its  name  (having  often  to  coin  them 
for  ourselves)  and  price  on  our  list,  and  passed  on  to 
something  else,  while  our  watchful  attendant  picked  it 
up  and  followed  us  around  as  long  as  we  lingered  in  his 
particular  stall.  When  we  had  tired  of  one  merchant, 
we  crossed  the  court  to  the  sitting-room  of  those  who 
had  charge  of  the  affair,  (the  officials,)  where  we  always 
found  them  sitting  a  la  Turque  around  a  metallic  brasier 
containing  live  coals,  at  which  they,  from  time  to  time, 
lit  their  diminutive  pipes  or  warmed  their  sugarless  tea. 


WHAT   TIIEY   GAIN   BY   THE   TREATY.  233 

They  would  also  make  a  list  of  the  articles  brought  by 
the  boys  who  followed  us,  count  the  cost,  compare  their 
amount  with  ours  and  that  of  the  merchant,  and  then 
receive  it  in  silver  dollars.  The  goods  were  then  de- 
livered to  us,  and  an  acknowledgment  given  to  the  mer- 
chant to  the  effect  that  the  Government  owed  him  an 
itzabu  for  each  dollar  that  had  been  paid  in. 

As  night  approached  and  business  was  closed  for  the 
day,  all  the  dollars  that  had  been  received  were  counted 
in  the  presence  of  the  several  officers  and  spies,  boxed 
up  carefully,  and  immediately  forwarded  to  Yeddo, 
where  they  went  into  the  mint  as  itzahu  only,  and  came 
out  multiplied  by  three  and  a  fraction.  An  itzabu  for 
every  dollar  received  was  then  sent  back  to  Si-mo-da, 
and  the  acknowledgments  redeemed. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  if  a  merchant  sold  one  hun- 
dred itzabu  worth  of  goods,  he  received  his  money  in 
full,  and  in  good  time ;  that  the  Government  cleared  a 
fraction  over  sixty-seven  cents  on  every  silver  dollar  that 
entered  their  ports,  and  that  we  and  our  poor  old  Uncle 
Samuel  were  really  the  only  sufferers.  For,  though  one 
hundred  dollars  was  marked  on  the  goods  as  their  price, 
still,  it  was  with  the  understanding  that  a  dollar,  though 
more  than  three  times  as  heavy,  was  still  only  equal  to 
an  itzabu,  and  the  same  goods  would  have  been  sold  to 
us  at  thirty-three  dollars,  could  we  only  have  converted 
that  weight  of  silver  into  its  real  value  equal  to  one  hun- 
dred itzabu. 

"I'll  tell  you  what  it  is,"  I  remarked  to  one  of  the 
officers  while  paying  my  first  bill ;  "  the  first  thing  you 
know,  some  American  will  imitate  your  die,  and  come 


234  COMPARATIVE  VALUE    OF    GOLD   AND    SILVER. 

here  with  a  shipload  of  itzabu  to  buy  your  goods  with  : 
then  you'll  have  to  receive  your  own  money  for  what  it  is 
worth." 

He  smiled  calmly  at  my  evident  greenness,  as  he  re- 
plied, through  Tatz-nosky,  as  follows: — "It  is  not  possi- 
ble for  Japanese  itzabu  to  go  out  of  Nipon :  how,  then, 
can  they  ever  be  brought  back  again  ?  If  we  saw  you 
with  itzabu,  we  would  know  that  you  had  made  them ; 
hence  we  would  not  be  forced  to  receive  them.  They 
would  not  be  our  coin  in  that  case."  After  this 
"  sogdollager"-like  argument,  he  quietly  lit  his  pipe, 
handed  it  to  me,  and  smiled  a  smile  of  careless  in- 
difference. 

I  have  previously  remarked  that  silver  was  much  more 
preferable  to  them  than  gold ;  and  the  reason  was  this : 
a  gold-piece  of  theirs,  valued  at  four  itzabu,  weighs 
about  as  much  as  one  of  our  quarter-eagles.  Hence, 
if  an  article  was  marked  $2  50,  and  was  paid  for  with  a 
quarter-eagle,  the  gold  received  would  only  be  equal 
to  four  itzabu ;  but,  were  it  paid  for  in  silver,  this  latter 
would  be  equal  to  seven  and  three-quarters  itzabu,  or 
nearly  double.  From  this  it  will  be  seen  that  gold  is 
less  valuable  in  Japan  than  in  other  countries ;  and, 
were  it  not  for  the  peculiar  policy  of  that  people,  this 
difference  might  be  speculated  on  to  great  advantage 
by  outsiders;  but,  as  there  is  no  possibility  of  one's 
buying  it  up  and  getting  it  out  of  the  country,  the  fact 
loses  much  of  its  importance. 

I  asked  Tatz-nosky,  among  other  questions, why  gold  was 
not  more  valuable ;  was  it  as  plentiful  as  silver  among  them? 
&c.  &c. :  and  he  replied  it  was  as  hard  to  dig  one  as  the 


HOW   THEY   ANSWER   QUESTIONS.  235 

other ;  from  which  I  inferred  that  he  had  answered  my 
last  question  in  the  affirmative :  but,  when  I  said  some- 
thing to  that  effect,  he  added  an  ambiguous  remark 
that  left  me  as  much  in  the  dark  as  ever: — "They  are 
both  in  the  ground:  how,  therefore,  can  we  tell?"  or 
words  to  that  effect.  The  above  gives  a  very  fair  idea 
of  the  cautious  manner  in  which  they  answered  our 
questions. 

Upon  one  occasion,  when  we  were  making  home- 
purchases,  one  of  the  nomadics  (Mr.  Edgerton)  offered 
a  gold  eagle  and  one  silver  dollar  in  payment,  and  it 
was  flatly  refused.  "  Why  do  you  refuse  it  ?"'  he  asked. 
"The  treaty  says  that  'payment  shall  be  made  in  gold 
and  silver.'  I  fulfil  its  conditions  by  giving  you  ten 
dollars  in  gold  and  one  in  silver,  and  you  break  it  by 
insisting  on  receiving  eleven  silver  dollars.  You  won't 
be  satisfied  until  we  bring  a  thousand  fillibusters  from 
California  to  see  you  and  teach  you  what's  right.  Tell 
them  so." 

Poor  Tatz-nosky,  at  this  period  of  the  action,  looked 
remarkably  small  and  confused. 

"Do  you  not  see  that  I  am  only  the  interpreter?"  he 
asked,  in  his  imperfect  English.  "  I  only  tell  you  what 
I  am  told.  It  is  not  my  fault  if  the  emperor  prefers 
being  paid  in  silver." 

"Confound  your  emperor's  tastes !"  continued  Edger- 
ton, as  he  reluctantly  hauled  out  the  silver.  "I  came 
here  on  the  strength  of  the  treaty,  bringing  nothing  but 
gold  with  me ;  and  now  I  find  it  won't  pass.  What 
kind  of  a  treaty  do  you  call  that  ?  Commodore  Perry  '11 
come  back  here  some  day  and  blow  you  sky-high." 


236  WHY   THEY    SIGNED    THE   TREATY. 

"Japanese  like  Commodore  Perry  very  much,"  re- 
plied Tatz-nosky,  "  but  not  understand  him  all.  Japanese 
will  do  what  Commodore  Perry  speak,"  &c.  &c. 

And  yet,  while  thus  invariably  protesting  their  willing- 
ness to  fulfil  the  requirements  of  the  treaty,  they  scarcely 
ever  did  so.  They  are  certainly — politically  speaking,  at 
any  rate — the  most  dishonest  and  untrustworthy  people 
in  the  world;  and,  in  my  opinion,  a  good  flibustiers' 
drubbing  is  the  only  thing  that  will  ever  introduce  them 
to  honesty.  The  great  bugbear  of  the  Government  is 
the  fear  of  a  foreign  war.  They  are  well  aware  of  the 
one  which  the  English  waged  so  successfully  against 
their  neighbours  the  Chinese,  and  are  nervously  afraid 
of  experiencing  similar  treatment  at  the  hands  of  any 
nation  they  may  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  offend.  There  is 
no  manner  of  doubt  in  my  mind  that  this  fear  was  a 
powerful,  though  unacknowledged,  auxiliary  in  bringing 
them  to  the  signing  of  any  treaty  at  all.  I  firmly  be- 
lieve that  they  signed  it  as  the  lesser  of  two  evils;  that  they 
knew  at  the  time  exactly  lohat  it  meant,  and  that  there  was 
a  "mental  reservation"  on  their  part  to  respect  its  pro- 
visions only  so  far  as  they  should  be  forced  to  to  keep 
out  of  trouble.  And  this  is  not  my  opinion  alone,  but 
that  also  of  all  with  whom  I  have  conversed  who  were 
there  with  me,  and  who,  like  me,  suffered  from  their 
unfaithfulness.  And  now  let  us  turn  to  the  stalls  once 
more. 

One  of  the  objects  most  worthy  of  admiration  was  an 
artificial  bird, — an  ordinary  chicken-hawk ;  and  it  was  de- 
cidedly the  most  naturally-executed  thing  that  I  ever  saw. 
No  feather-work  specimen  of  Rio  Janeiro,  Madeira,  or  any 


A   SINGULAR    FABRIC.  237 

other  part  of  the  world,  ever  excelled  it.  It  was  the  first 
thing  of  the  kind  that  we  had  seen  or  heard  of;  but  we 
were  told  that  they  were  quite  plentiful  in  Yeddo.  This 
fellow  sat  upon  an  ivory  perch,  to  which  he  was  secured 
by  a  chain  of  the  same,  and  was  invariably,  when  first 
seen,  taken  for  a  live  bird :  every  thing  was  perfect 

There  was  also  in  one  of  those  stalls  a  most  beauti- 
ful fabric,  which,  for  want  of  a  better  name,  we  called 
crimped  crape.  It  was  in  the  form  of  a  scarf,  some  four 
feet  in  length  by  six  inches  in  width,  was  of  a  brilliant 
crimson  colour,  and  capable  of  being  stretched  to  a  length 
of  twenty  feet  while  retaining  its  width  unimpaired.  Upon 
being  let  go,  after  being  thus  elongated,  it  would  spring 
back,  India-rubber-like,  to  its  former  length.  We  subse- 
quently observed  that  the  women  used  it  largely  for  tying 
up  their  hair,  and  that  after  a  time  its  elasticity  became 
greatly  impaired.  "What  a  sweet  spring-scarf  it  would 
make !"  exclaimed  a  young  lady  of  Philadelphia,  upon 
seeing  a  sample  of  it,  which  I  had  brought  home  simply 
to  show  the  fabric. 

And  now  I  will  conclude  this  account  of  the  bazaar 
with  a  general  remark  upon  the  utter  uselessness  of  the 
great  majority  of  the  articles  made  by  the  Japanese  for 
export.  They  themselves  have  no  use  for  many  of  them ; 
and,  when  asked  why  they  had  been  made,  would  reply 
that  they  were  copied  from  drawings  or  patterns  ob- 
tained from  the  Dutch,  and  that  they — the  Dutch — 
bought  them  in  large  quantities  and  carried  them 
away. 

As  we  walked  among  them,  such  expressions  as  the 
following  might  be  heard  at  eveiy  turn : — "  It's  a  very 


238  HOUSES,  DOORS,  AND    WINDOWS. 

beautiful  piece  of  work,  truly,  but  then  what-  use  can  it- 
be  put  to?"    "I  don't  believe  they  would  know  what  to 
do  with  it  themselves,"  &c.  &c. ;  and  it  was  really  singular 
how  many  things  there  were  to  which  similar  remarks 
would  apply. 

And  now  let  me  end  this  chapter  by  giving  a  rough 
idea  of  the  Japanese  houses.  They  are  generally  built 
of  rough  stone-masonry,  or  upright  poles  placed  very 
close  together  and  plastered  over  like  laths,  and  they 
are  from  one  to  two  stories  in  height.  They  are  some- 
times thatched,  but  more  generally  tiled,  and  at  Ha-ko- 
da-di  these  tiles  w^ere  in  turn  covered  by  tons  of  different- 
sized  stones,  apparently  sufficient  in  some  cases  to  crush 
in  the  whole  roof.  They  are  partitioned  off  into  several 
mysterious  apartments,  and  have  doors  hung  on  iron 
or  wooden  hinges  and  which  fasten  with  the  ordinary 
string-latch.  The  floors  of  all  those  which  I  entered  were 
raised  about  a  foot,  and  covered  by  oblong  sections  of 
stuffed  matting,  which  fitted  so  snugly  together  that  there 
was  no  danger  of  getting  the  foot  into  the  cracks.  These 
mats  w^ere  as  soft  as  the  seat  of  an  ordinary  hair-sofa, 
and  were  always  kept  beautifully  clean, — persons  leaving 
their  sandals  in  a  square  earthen  cuddy-hole  before  step- 
ping upon  them. 

These  rooms  receive  light  and  ventilation  through 
most  ingeniously-contrived  windows,  and  many  of  the 
partitions  and  doors  are  after  the  same  idea.  Having  no 
glass,  they  are  forced  to  use  a  very  strong  and  semi-trans- 
parent bamboo-paper,  which  they  stretch  over  the  frames 
very  tightly  and  then  paste  down.  These  frames  are  just 
like  ours,  only  the  surface  of  the  cross-pieces  is  flat,  to 


UPON   THE    SPUR   OF   THE   MOMENT.  239 

enable  the  paper  to  adhere.  They  work  hack  and  forth 
in  the  side  of  a  house  like  folding-doors,  and  give  more 
light  than  one  would  imagine.  They  are  so  strong  that 
I  have  snapped  my  finger  against  the  centre  of  the  (paper) 
pane  with  considerable  force  and  had  it  rebound  from  it 
as  from  a  tightly-snared  drum-head. 

Of  course  the  inmates  cannot  see  what  is  going  on  in 
the  streets,  but  then  they  have  the  satisfaction  of  know- 
ing that  they  are  equally  protected.  If  they  want  air  or 
are  curious,  all  they  have  to  do  is  to  slide  the  frames  side- 
ways. The  dwelling-houses  are  generally  from  twenty 
to  thirty  feet  square ;  but  some  of  the  temples,  with  their 
outbuildings,  cover  upward  of  two  acres.  These  latter 
are  not  used  solely  as  places  of  worship,  but  are  often 
appropriated  as  the  quarters  of  the  retainers  of  powerful 
princes  during  their  journeys. 

Some  of  the  more  pretending  houses  have  piazzas, 
which  are  tiled  over  as  usual,  and  slatted  up  along  the 
sides  so  that  the  passion-flower  and  other  creepers  may 
protect  them  from  the  sun.  I  was  once  passing  one  of 
those  cozy-looking  two-story  establishments  toward  the 
end  of  a  solitary  ramble,  when,  hearing  music  overhead, 
I  was  suddenly  seized  with  a  desire  to  see  what  was  going 
on,  and,  without  stopping  to  consider  upon  the  breeding 
of  the  procedure,  at  once  climbed  up  to  the  roof  of  the 
porch  and  looked  into  the  open  window  of  a  room  on  the 
second  floor.  There  I  saw  three  musicians  seated  on  the 
inner  side  of  the  matted  floor,  while  in  the  centre  of  the 
room  was  a  large  lacquer-ware  tray  of  viands,  around 
which  were  seated  a  middle-aged  Japanese  and  a  young, 
highly-dressed,  and  very  pretty  girl.    They  were  attacking 


240  I   RECEIVE    A    LESSON    IN    POLITENESS. 

the  contents  of  the  tray  with  unmistakable  reUsh,  and  I 
shouki  probably  have  joined  them  with  pleasure  had  not 
the  man  got  up  with  a  dignity  which  put  me  to  the  blush 
and  —  shut  the  window  in  my  face.  I  really  felt  ashamed 
of  myself,  and  arrived  at  the  end  of  my  walk,  with  the 
determination  to  respect  the  privacy  of  others,  even  if 
they  were  only  half  civilized. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

somethina  about  baths  and  bathing  in  japan,  and  how  they  objected 
to  odr  surveying  their  coasts — how  we  overcame  their  objections, 
and  how  tatz-noskt  took  several  long  bides — how  bunsbt  dis- 
covered land,  and  how  the  "old  john"  crossed  the  straits  of 
t'sugar. 

There  is  a  wide-spread  idea  in  regard  to  the  profligacy 
and  lewdness  of  the  Japanese  as  a  nation ;  and,  though  it 
must  be  confessed  that  there  is  little  or  no  modesty 
among  the  middle  and  lower  classes, — we  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  judging  in  regard  to  the  higher, — still,  I  never 
during  our  entire  intercourse  with  them  saw  any  indica- 
tions of  a  lack  of  practical  morality,  l^atural  depravity 
and  impurity  of  taste  is  perceptible  at  almost  every  turn 
in  the  shape  of  lewd  engravings  and  a  disregard  to  expo- 
sure of  the  person  ;  but  then  it  must  be  remembered  that 
they  are  half-civilized  Orientals,  and  heathens  at  that. 
As  far  as  their  acts  are  concerned,  the  women  are  per- 
fectly correct  in  their  intercourse  with  strangers,  which  is 
more  than  can  be  said  of  the  Chinese,  though  they  do 
what  the  latter  do  not, — they  bathe  promiscuously  with 
the  opposite  sex  in  the  public  baths,  because,  I  suppose, 
their  ancestors  did  so  before  them,  and  their  primitive 
ideas  recognise  no  harm  in  bo  doing. 

These  people  are,  like  most  Orientals,  a  nation  of 
ducks, — their  greatest  luxury  consisting  in  vapour,  warm, 
or  surf  bathing, — and  much  of  their  time  is  devoted  to 

16  241 


242  '  HOT    BATHS   IN   JAPAN". 

tlieir  enjoyment.  Even  in  the  small  town  of  Si-mo-cla 
there  are  four  batliing-establishments,  where  persons,  for 
the  sum  of  two  Japanese  cash,  (about  one-eighth  of  a  cent,) 
may  dip  into  an  immense  tub  of  warm  water,  or,  when  it 
is  too  hot,  may  seat  themselves  on  beams  extending  over 
it  and  be  subjected  to  the  influence  of  the  rising  vapour, 
after  which  they  return  to  the  outer  apartment  and  con- 
clude their  bath  by  emptying  or  causing  to  be  emptied 
over  them  a  dozen  or  more  buckets  of  cold  water. 

They  are,  with  the  exception  of  the  Malays,  some  of 
the  Pacific  Islanders,  and  the  followers  of  Mahomet,  the 
most  cleanly  people  I  ever  saw.  They  are  even  unneces- 
sarily cleanly ;  they  bathe  too  often  for  health :  one  would 
think  that  thej^  were  anxious  to  make  up  in  purity  of 
person  for  the  undoubted  depravity  and  impurity  of  their 
tastes. 

They  have  also  hot  and  medicinal  springs  throughout 
the  countr}^,  to  which  those  who  can  afford  it  resort  for 
the  enjoyment  of  their  real  or  supposed  virtues.  One  of 
the  former  of  these  is  situated  about  two  miles  up  the 
valley  that  runs  back  from  Si-mo-da,  and  is  well  worthy 
of  a  passing  notice. 

It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  hill,  on  the  southern 
side  of  the  valley,  and  comes  boiling  from  a  fissure  in  the 
rock  with  a  power  indicative  of  a  bountiful' "source.  This 
boiling  forth,  we  were  told,  however,  was  by  no  means 
constant ;  at  times  there  being  a  very  limited  flow,  and 
at  others  a  spasmodic  soda-fountain-like  action  that  pro- 
jected great  quantities.  The  Japanese  made  signs  to  us 
that  the  water  was  much  hotter  when  thrown  out  by  the 
soda-fountain-like  action,  and  that  persons  unaccustomed 


A    SULPHUR    HOT-SPRING.  2-13 

to  it  were  wont  to  hold  their  noses  on  account  of  a  had 
odour  that  prevailed  at  such  times.  I  tried  to  arrive  at 
the  nature  of  the  odour,  but  could  only  learn  that  it  was 
possessed  of  a  choking  sensation,  and  that  it  could  be 
tasted  in  the  water;  and  I  was  thinking  of  passing  a  few 
hours  in  the  vicinity,  hoping  for  an  opportunity  of  judg- 
ing in  person,  when  one  of  our  party  drew  a  match  across 
the  bottom  of  the  box  to  light  a  cigar,  and  the  odour  was 
immediately  recognised  by  the  owner  of  the  bath  as  that 
in  regard  to  which  he  had  been  making  signs.  It  was 
sulphur. 

I  at  once  stooped  down,  and,  leaning  over  the  pool, 
tried  to  get  a  cupful  of  the  water  before  it  became 
tainted  by  admixture  with  that  in  which  the  bathers  had 
been  floundering  all  day;  but,  from  the  peculiar  construc- 
tion of  the  bathing-place,  I  found  it  impracticable.  This 
latter  was  partly  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  and  partly  walled 
up  with  boards,  the  seams  of  which  were  tightly  calked. 
It  was  some  three  or  four  feet  deep,  and  had  a  bamboo 
joint  running  through  the  wall  at  that  height,  which 
acted  as  a  constant  drain  to  let  escape  the  surplus  water. 
The  fountain  itself  was  in  the  bottom,  and  consequently 
three  or  four  feet  under  water ;  so  it  was  no  easy  matter 
to  get  an  uncontaminated  cupful.  At  last  I  gave  up  the 
attempt :  the  risk  was  too  great  of  my  tasting  water  that 
had  been  in  contact  with  the  skin  of  various  bathers ;  I 
was  not  sufficiently  devoted  to  science  to  encounter  it.  I 
put  my  hand  in  it,  however,  more  than  once,  and  tried  in 
vain  to  detect  the  existence  of  sulphur  through  the  sense 

of  smell. 

It  was  quite  warm  enough  even  now,  while  the  boiling 


244  ANOTHER  CAUTIOUS  REPLY. 

was  80  beautifully  even  and  regular;  but  tliey  made  signs 
to  us  that,  when  it  burst  forth  a  la  soda-fountain,  the 
bathers  took  good  care  to  give  the  fissure  a  wide  berth, 
for  fear  of  being  scalded.  They  gave  us  also  to  under- 
stand that,  when  the  water  was  drawn  off  at  night  and 
the  fountain  thus  relieved  of  the  pressure  of  the  superin- 
cumbent three  feet  of  water,  it  spouted  forth  in  the  form 
of  a  jet  d'eau  of  several  feet  in  height;  but  this  we  never 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing. 

This  immense  tub,  or  rather  bathing-pool,  had  a  bam- 
boo house  built  over  it,  and  benches  of  the  same  reed 
ranged  round  its  sides ;  and,  though  we  seated  ourselves 
on  those  benches  with  the  ever-existing  feeling  of  curi- 
osity in  regard  to  every  thing  connected  with  those  iso- 
lated people,  no  difi'erence  did  it  make  to  the  unblushing 
bathers.  All  ages  and  sexes  divested  themselves  of  their 
garments  in  the  most  matter-of-fact  style,  and  mixed  un- 
concernedly in  the  common  centre  of  attraction. 

They  not  only  did  that  much,  but  they  also  acted  the 
part  of  body-servants  to  each  other,  without  the  slightest 
regard  to  either  sex  or  age;  and  this  same  absence  of 
every  thing  like  propriety  was  observed,  not  in  that  place 
alone,  but  upon  all  other  occasions  where  our  ofiiccrs  had 
an  opportunity-  of  judging.  It  prevailed  throughout  all 
of  the  bathing-establishments  of  Si-mo-da  and  Ha-ko- 
da-di,  and  was  to  be  observed  in  the  every-day  life  of  the 
people  wherever  we  fell  in  with  them.  I  once  asked 
Tatz-nosky,  the  interpreter,  if  the  higher  classes  were 
equally  shameless;  and  he  replied,  in  their  usual  "beat- 
the-bush"  manner,  that  at  Yeddo  and  other  large  cities 
"things  were  not  as  we  found  them  at  Si-mo-da."     Go- 


CAVILOSKY  GETS  EXCITED.  245 

lownin,  the  Russian  captain,  who  was  their  prisoner  for  a 
long  time,  remarks,  however,  that  they  were  woefully 
wanting  in  modesty,  and  makes  no  exception  in  favour  of 
the  higher  classes.  It  was  revolting  to  see  such  a  total 
absence  of  that  beautiful  exponent  of  a  nation's  degree 
of  civilization  and  purity. 

While  watching  the  bathers  of  the  "hot  spring,"  I 
heard  something  else  denied  which  had  always  existed  in 
my  mind  as  a  fixed  fact. 

"This  is  the  way  you  bathe  in  Russia,  I  believe?"  I 
said  to  Cavilosky,  the  Russian  officer  who  had  accom- 
panied us.  "I  should  think  it  productive  of  a  most  de- 
moralizing tendency." 

"My  dear  sir,  you  were  never  more  mistaken  in  your 
life,"  he  replied:  "we  are  as  proper  in  Russia  as  they  are 
in  any  other  part  of  Christendom.  Where  did  you  get 
such  an  idea  from?" 

I  referred  him  to  the  "  Iconographic  Encyclopaedia"  as 
my  authority,  and  added  a  few  words  in  its  praise  as  a 
work  of  standard  reference. 

"Pshaw!  pshaw!  The  'Iconographic  Encyclopaedia,' 
indeed ! — the  work  of  a  musty-headed  Dutchman,  whose 
brains  had  long  been  deadened  by  lager-bier  before  the 
idea  of  getting  up  such  a  book  presented  itself.  Give  us 
some  better  authority." 

I  saw  readily  that  he  was  prejudiced  by  a  feeling  of 
combined  shame  and  annoyance  at  such  a  national  cha- 
racteristic being  attributed  to  his  countrymen,  and  so 
changed  the  subject,  with  the  unalterable  conviction  that 
the  "musty-headed  Dutchman"  was  right  and  our  choleric 
little  Russian  wrong. 


246  WE    VISIT    A   BATHING-HOUSE. 

While  this  conversation  was  going  on,  I  searched  in 
vain  for  any  silicious  or  other  matter  which  the  water 
might  precipitate  when  coming  in  contact  with  the  air, 
and  was  thence  forced  to  the  conclusion  that  the  smell  of 
sulphur  spoken  of  by  the  Japanese  was  owing  to  the 
escape  of  some  noxious  gas,  which,  finding  a  vent  through 
the  fissure  with  the  water,  thus  produced,  at  times,  the 
soda-fountain-like  action  before  spoken  of. 

This  was  the  only  hot  spring  near  Si-mo-da  that  we 
heard  of;  but  the  interpreters  spoke  of  them  as  being 
very  common  in  other  sections  of  the  country. 

Surf-bathing  seems  to  be  peculiar  to  the  lower  classes 
that  reside  near  the  sea ;  and  it  is  probably  the  attendant 
exposure  which  bronzes  the  skins  of  those  who  indulge 
in  it,  until  the  stranger  wonders  why  the  natives  along 
the  coast  are  so  much  darker  than  those  of  the  interior. 

I  have  seen  as  many  as  several  hundred  men,  women, 
and  children, — the  entire  population  of  villages,  appa- 
rently,— rolling  about  in  the  surf  in  one  promiscuous 
heap,  and  all  the  while  yelling  and  screaming  like  so 
many  savages. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  cities  of  the  interior,  on  the 
contrary,  scarcely  ever  approach  the  beach,  but  patronize 
the  bathing-houses  twice,  sometimes  three  times,  a  day. 
Several  of  us  once  visited  one  of  the  most  respectable  of 
these  latter,  to  examine  its  arrangements,  &c. ;  and,  having 
been  told  that  they  were  seldom  frequented  during 
the  heat  of  the  day,  we  chose  that  hour  for  our  visit. 
Upon  arriving  at  the  establishment,  we  found  it  just 
being  vacated  by  a  most  dilapidated  and  hideous-looking 
old  woman,  while  another,  who  did  not  seem  much  better 


CHEAP    BATHING.  247 

ofi"  SO  far  as  good  looks  were  concerned,  held  open  the 
bamboo  door  and  motioned  us  to  enter.  Thinking,  pro- 
bably, that  we  had  come  to  see  their  mode  of  bathing,  she 
made  signs  that  there  were  no  bathers  just  then,  but  that 
there  would  be  shortly,  and  that  we  had  better  seat  our- 
selves around  the  sides  and  make  ourselves  comfortable. 

We  made  her  understand,  with  considerable  difficulty, 
that  our  object  was  to  see  the  arrangement  of  the  hot- 
water  apparatus,  &c.,  whereupon  she  pointed  to  a  dark- 
looking  hole  at  the  back-end  of  the  room  that  resembled 
a  huge,  old-fashioned  wood-fireplace  with  the  back 
knocked  out,  and  motioned  us  to  pass  under  it  and  see 
for  ourselves.  So  we  took  advantage  of  the  permission, 
and,  at  the  expense  of  wet  feet  and  the  inhalation  of  a 
considerable  quantity  of  a  steamj',  disagreeable  atmo- 
sphere, accomplished  the  object  of  our  visit. 

We  found  the  inner  apartment  into  which  the  chimney- 
like passage  opened  to  be  a  room  of  about  from  eight  to 
ten  feet  in  size,  and  containing  an  immense  caldron  in 
the  centre  built  around  with  mud  and  stones.  It  was 
fi.lled  to  overflowing  with  water,  from  which  the  steam 
arose  in  clouds  and  circulated  between  a  dozen  or  more 
rafters  that  were  just  high  enough  from  the  stone  floor  to 
let  one  walk  upright  under  them.  From  what  we  could 
learn,  they  did  not  fill  this  caldron  more  than  three  times 
a  day  at  the  utmost,  it  being  so  large  that  the  water 
retained  its  heat  several  hours.  Then,  as  it  cooled 
gradually  and  lost  a  portion  of  its  purity  with  each  suc- 
cessive bath,  the  price  of  admission  decreased  to  a  single 
cash. 

In  the  corner  of  this  apartment  was   also  a  smaller 


248  THE  BATH-KEEPER    REFUSES   A    DIME. 

vessel,  into  which  a  constant  stream  of  cold  water  emptied 
through  a  bamboo  joint  that  kept  it  in  an  overflowing 
state  unless  the  bathers  were  unusually  plentiful.  From 
this  they  dipped  bucketsful  of  water,  which  they  carried 
into  the  next  room  to  have  poured  over  their  heads  after 
the  hot  part  of  the  bathing  was  ended.  They  would 
hand  their  two  buckets  of  water  to  the  nearest  friend, 
and  stoop  down  on  the  concave  stone  flooring,  while  said 
nearest  friend  would  get  as  great  an  elevation  as  possible 
and  pour  the  contents  over  them ;  then  the  water  ran 
through  a  two  or  three  inch  hole  in  the  centre  of  the 
floor. 

As  we  concluded  our  examination  of  the  inner  apart- 
ment, and  again  stooped  under  the  chimneyplace-like 
passage-way  into  the  outer  room,  we  came  upon  several 
persons  of  all  ages  and  sexes,  who  had  entered  since  our 
arrival,  and  who  were  then  engaged  in  the  process  of 
disrobing  preparatory  to  taking  a  dip  in  the  inner  tub. 

Our  appearance  did  not  seem  to  cause  them  either  sur- 
prise or  confusion  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  as  we  tried  to 
prevail  on  the  woman  of  the  house  to  accept  a  dime  in 
return  for  what  we  had  seen,  they  crowded  around  in 
their  primitive  costume  to  see  what  the  dispute  was  about. 
And  here  was  another  demonstration  of  the  despotic 
manner  in  which  the  masses  are  there  ruled :  that  old 
woman  made  signs  to  us  that  were  she  to  accept  a  single 
cash  from  us  her  head  would  be  in  danger.  And  it  is 
more  than  probable  that  half  of  those  who  crowded  around 
us  were  spies,  who  would  have  reported  her  to  the  Govern- 
ment, had  she  done  so. 

Japan  is  worse  than  Jesuitical  Rome   or  iron-heeled 


IN    JAPAN 


WE    GET   THE   BETTER   IN    AN   ARGUMENT.  240 

Austria,  as  far  as  her  police-department  is  concerned. 
There  the  friend  spies  upon  the  friend,  the  relative  upon 
the  relative.  The  word  confidence  is  not  known  among 
them:  every  thing  is  caution  and  suspicion. 

So  much  for  Japanese  baths  and  morals ;  and  now  let 
us  pay  a  visit  to  the  secluded  port  of  Hey-da,  to  which  the 
Russians  had  retired  to  avoid  discovery  by  the  French 
and  English  cruisers.  When  the  Japanese  found  that  the 
"old  John"  was  about  to  go  there,  they  objected  vio- 
lently, throwing  themselves  back  upon  Commodore 
Perry's  treaty,  with  great  apparent  regard  for  its  every 
feature,  and  giving  us  to  understand  that  if  we  went  to 
Hey-da  it  would  be  clearly  a  piece  of  bad  faith  on  our 
part,  as  the  treaty  expressly  provided  that  Americans 
were  to  visit  no  Japanese  ports  save  those  of  Kan-ga-sa-ki, 
Ha-ko-da-di,  and  Si-mo-da. 

To  this,  Commander  John  Rodgers  replied,  with  equal 
force  and  Avariness  of  regard  for  the  provisions  of  the 
treaty,  that,  among  other  things,  that  instrument  permitted 
American  vessels  in  distress  to  jiy  for  refuge  into  any 
port  of  Japan,  and  that  that  liberty  would  be  worse  than 
useless  if  we  were  not  to  be  allowed  to  make  charts  of 
all  such  ports  for  the  benefit  of  all  such  distressed 
vessels. 

While  running  in  for  refuge,  without  a  chart,  he  said, 
the  vessels  might  strike  upon  a  sunken  rock,  or  reef,  in 
which  case  they  would  have  done  much  better  to  have 
remained  outside  in  the  storm.  This  would  be  a  poor 
kind  of  protection  to  extend  to  American  vessels  in 
distress. 

Still  the  Japanese  refused :  they  always  refused  every 


250  WE    VISIT    THE    SHIPWRECKED    RUSSIANS. 

tiling, — even  what  the  treaty  expressly  provided  for ;  and 
the  only  way  we  ever  got  along  was  to  do  what  we 
wished  to  without  asking  any  questions,  and  then  refer 
them  to  the  treaty  for  our  authority. 

So,  if  we  expected  to  accomplish  any  thing  by  our  visit, 
we  had  to  act  just  as  if  we  had  full  authority  from  the 
emperor,  or  make  up  our  minds  to  do  nothing  at  all ;  and, 
as  we  had  already  sailed  several  thousand  miles  to  get  at 
this  work,  we  couldn't  well  go  away  without  accomplish, 
leg  it.  So,  at  it  we  went,  commencing  the  southern  end 
of  our  survey  at  Hey-da,  on  the  island  of  ISTipon,  and 
ending  at  the  town  of  Tomari,  on  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  island  of  Jesso, — a  coast-line  of  over  a  thousand 
miles,  accomplished  through  all  kinds  of  weather,  and 
against  all  manner  of  obstacles  that  were  thrown  in  our 
way  by  the  cunning  of  the  Japanese.  But  let  us  return 
to  Hey-da  and  the  shipwrecked  Russians. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  of  May,  1855,  we  left  Si- 
mo-da  before  a  light  land-breeze,  and,  under  all  sail  and 
low  steam,  worked  our  way  slowly  to  the  southward, 
keeping  well  in  with  the  land  and  sketching  in  its  wind- 
ings from  point  to  point.  Several  Russian  officers,  who 
had  crossed  the  mountains  on  foot  to  Si-mo-da  to  pay  the 
squadron  a  visit,  took  passage  with  us,  and  added  to  the 
interest  of  the  trip  by  pointing  out  and  naming  various 
villages  that  we  passed,  and  indulging  us  with  accounts 
of  their  experience  among  the  Japanese. 

These  accomplished  officers  and  gentlemen  mostly 
spoke  French  fluently,  and  some  of  them  even  under- 
stood our  own  language  quite  well.  I  had  alwaj^s  regarded 
Russian  officers  as  rather  illiterate  and  boorish  than  other- 


VOILA   LA    FU-SI-YA-MA  !  251 

wise,  and  was  consequently  now  the  more  surprised  to 
find  them  our  equals  in  polish  as  well  as  in  classical  and 
scientific  acquirements. 

Our  time  passed  pleasantly  enough,  as  we  steamed  over 
the  distance  of  forty  miles,  and  we  were  beginning  to 
think  that  some  signs  of  the  harbour  ought  now  to  be 
heaving  in  sight,  when  we  suddenly  found  ourselves 
within  a  mile  of  its  very  mouth.  So  beautifully  was  it 
hidden  from  the  sea,  that  a  strange  vessel  might  have 
"backed  and  filled"  about  its  locality  for  days  without 
imagining  the  existence  of  any  such  place. 

"  Voila  la  Fu-si-ya-ma !"  exclaimed  one  of  the  Russians, 
pointing  far  down  the  coast  to  a  magnificent  mountain, 
which,  suddenly  relieved,  by  a  passing  squall,  of  its  dense 
envelop  of  clouds,  now  lifted  its  snowy  head  far  into  the 
mid-day  sky. 

A  magnificent  sight  it  was,  truly.  Imagine  a  vast 
truncated  cone,  whose  even  slope  to  the  northward  was 
washed  by  the  rolling  waters  of  the  bay,  while  its 
southern  base  dropped  gradually  back  for  miles  and  tens 
of  miles  into  the  unknown  interior.  Its  snow-capped  crest 
reflecting  the  weakened  rays  of  the  evening  sun,  its  un- 
even belt  of  constant  clouds  around  its  centre,  and  below 
that  the  distant  blue  of  its  sweeping  sides,  fill  up  the  pic- 
ture.   I  say,  with  the  Russians,  "  Yoilk  la  Fu-si-ya-ma !" 

"It  is  their  great  object  of  reverence,  I  might  almost 
say  of  worship,"  continued  the  Russian.  "You  find  it 
stamped  upon  most  of  their  porcelain  and  lacquer-ware, 
and  hung  in  tapestry  about  many  of  their  altars.  Its 
sides,  that  now  look  so  blue,  are  said  to  be  remarkably 
fertile  :  its  summit  is  always  covered  with  snow,  and  is  in 


252  SOMETHING    TO    ADMIRE. 

bad  weather  generally  liidden  from  view  by  the  clouds 
which  hang  around  it.  It  serves  them  also  as  a  very  re- 
liable barometer.  When  several  hundred  of  their  boats 
were  towing  our  crippled  frigate  from  Si-mo-da  to  Hey-da, 
the  day  was  beautifully  clear,  and  we  were  getting  along 
quite  smoothly,  when  suddenly  a  white  cloud  hid  it  from 
our  view  and  threw  the  whole  line  of  boats  into  the  wildest 
state  of  confusion.  They  cast  off  their  lines  and  pulled 
for  the  shore  in  such  haste  that  it  was  with  difficulty  that 
we  could  keep  enough  with  us  in  which  to  save  ourselves 
and  crew.  When  the  hurricane  which  the  white  cloud 
indicated  broke  upon  us,  we  were  safe  in  under  the  land ; 
but  the  old  Diana  foundered  in  a  few  minutes.  Their 
knowledge  of  the  weather  was  all  that  saved  us." 

We  were  now  approaching  the  curved  and  narrow 
entrance  of  the  harbour;  and,  as  is  usual  when  entering  a 
strange  port,  all  hands  mustered  on  deck  with  glasses 
and  wide-awake  eyes,  to  see  what  was  to  be  seen,  and  to 
imagine  a  great  many  things  which  were  not  to  be  seen. 
And  the  changing  panorama  that  presented  itself  on  every 
hand  was  one  well  worthy  of  admiration.  The  day  was  as 
calm  as  a  perfectly-motionless  atmosphere  could  make  it, 
and  just  warm  enough  to  make  it  pleasant.  Ahead  of 
us  there  was  opening  a  green  and  picturesque  valley,  with 
the  locale  of  its  hidden  villages  indicated  by  groves  of 
closely-planted  shade-trees,  and  with  the  glassy  surface 
of  a  winding  stream  breaking  out  here  and  there  and 
reflecting  the  slanting  rays  of  the  western  sun.  On  our 
left,  the  southern  range  of  mountains  that  formed  one 
wall  of  the  valley  stretched  their  broken  length  down 
into  the  very  sea,  lifting  their  uneven  ridge  several  hun- 


HEY-1)A    vs.  ST-MO-DA.  253 

dred  feet  above  its  level,  and  telling  the  mariner  of  bold 
water  along  their  rugged  sides  and  friendly  shelter  under 
their  protecting  breasts. 

On  the  right,  a  long,  low,  and  curved  fragment  of  land, 
some  one  or  two  hundred  yards  in  width,  and  densely 
covered  with  the  heaviest  timber,  stretched  itself  from 
the  northern  shore  toward  the  mountain-range  already 
alluded  to,  coming  to  an  abrupt  termination  just  in  time 
to  leave  a  passage  of  fair  width  opening  into  the  inner 
harbour,  and  forming,  with  the  remaining  shore-line,  a 
magnificent  anchorage,  in  shape  something  like  the  num- 
ber 6.  Then,  to  complete  the  panorama,  astern  of  us, 
miles  away  upon  the  clearly-defined  horizon,  where  the 
dark  blue  of  the  sea  and  the  azure  hue  of  the  heavens 
joined  to  limit  the  circle  of  vision,  loomed  out  the  undu- 
lating land  that,  stretching  far  out  into  the  sea  from  the 
downward  slope  of  Fu-si-ya-ma's  northern  side,  formed  a 
horseshoe  bay  of  huge  dimensions,  whose  unknown  shores 
might,  to  our  excited  fancies,  have  contained  a  dozen  such 
quiet  anchorages  as  the  one  we  were  now  entering. 

Reader,  if  you  have  ever  entered  a  quiet,  millpond-like 
harbour  after  a  week  or  more  of  hard  and  stormy  wea- 
ther, you  can  well  imagine  our  feelings  as  we  rounded  up 
into  this  landlocked  little  cove,  which  was  so  perfectly 
protected  that  not  even  a  ripple  was  to  be  seen  upon  the 
cool  and  shady-looking  beach.  It  was  so  totally  different 
aharbour  from  that  of  Si-mo-da,  so  infinitely  superior  in 
every  respect,  that  we  could  not  restrain  the  exclamation, 
— "  Oh,  if  Commodore  Perry  had  but  selected  this  as 
one  of  his  three  ports  of  entry,  ships  arriving  at  Japan 
would  at  any  rate  be  assured  of  safety  from  the  elements, 


254  THE    RIGHT   WAY   TO    TREAT   THE   JAPANESE. 

if  nothing  else."  "We  wondered  in  vain  why  Si-mo-da 
had  been  chosen  when  Hey-da  was  so  near;  and  we  have 
not  yet  ceased  to  wonder. 

As  we  steamed  slowly  up  into  this  figure-of-six  har- 
bour, the  Russian  boats,  which  had  been  saved  when  the 
Diana  foundered,  were  seen  safely  moored  along  the  quiet 
beach;  but  the  Russians  themselves  were  nowhere  to  be 
noticed.  They  subsequently  acknowledged  that  they  had 
taken  us  for  an  English  or  French  steamer  under  Ame- 
rican colours,  and  repeated  the  oft-complained-of  proceed- 
ing of  the  former,  who  had  entered  the  harbour  of  Petro- 
polowski  with  our  flag  at  their  peak,  made  a  hasty  survey 
of  it,  and  then  put  up  their  helm  and  steamed  out  again 
while  hoisting  their  true  colours  and  firing  a  gun  in  bra- 
vado. We  had  not  seen  the  act  ourselves,  but  had  heard 
of  it  so  often  that  we  finally  began  to  regard  it  as  having 
taken  place  beyond  a  doubt. 

As  soon  as  we  had  let  go  our  anchor,  the  captain's  gig 
was  placed  at  the  disposal  of  our  passengers,  and  after 
they  had  been  on  shore  a  few  minutes  we  began  to  see 
swarms  of  their  countrymen  crowding  the  beach,  many 
of  whom  came  ofi"  in  their  boats  to  extend  the  civilities 
of  the  port  to  us.  One  would  have  imagined  it  a  posses- 
sion of  the  Czar  instead  of  a  Japanese  seaport  town,  so 
completely  had  the  Russians  made  themselves  at  home. 
They  laughed  at  the  idea  of  our  not  visiting  them  at  their 
quarters  because  the  Japanese  objected  to  it,  and  offered 
to  take  us  in  tlicir  boats  if  we  wished  to  respect  their 
foolish  fancies. 

That  night  we  had  them,  as  well  as  several  Japanese 
of  rank,  on  board,  and  introduced  them  to  a  bowl  of  hot 


SOMETHING    MORE   ABOUT    SWORDS.  255 

wliiskey  punch;  and,  as  this  latter  disappeared,  we  ac- 
quired considerable  information  of  their  nation  at  large, 
from  the  Japanese,  through  the  Russians,  some  of  whom 
had  already  made  considerable  progress  in  the  language. 

Among  other  things,  we  learned  one  of  the  great  se- 
crets in  regard  to  the  beauty  and  remarkable  polish  of 
their  swords.  It  was  not  every  Japanese  sword  that  was 
good,  the  vice-governor  told  us:  it  was  only  a  certain 
number,  that  had  been  made  by  a  workman  who  lived 
A.i).  1750,  that  were  so  highly  prized :  any  others  could 
be  had  for  a  trifle, — from  ten  to  thirty  dollars. 

The  old  fellow  had  drank  pretty  freely  of  the  punch 
before  expressing  himself  thus  liberally,  and  another 
glass  or  two  upset  his  reserve  and  dignity  completely. 
He  slapped  us  on  the  back  in  a  most  "hail-fellow-well- 
met"  style,  and  drew  his  sword  when  requested,  without 
the  slightest  hesitation.  This  latter  was  certainly  the  most 
beautiful  specimen  of  steel  that  I  ever  saw:  put  any  light 
fabric  across  it  and  sweep  your  arm  through  the  air,  and 
its  divided  parts  floated  upon  the  disturbed  atmosphere. 
The  governor  seemed  unusually  proud  of  this  sword :  it 
was  made,  he  told  us,  by  the  great  maker  of  1750,  and 
had  come  to  him  from  his  father,  who  had  long  since  re- 
tired from  public  life.  I  tried  to  ascertain  if  swords,  &c. 
fell  to  the  lot  of  the  eldest  son  in  Japan,  but  failed  to 
convey  the  question  in  an  intelligible  form. 

The  party  broke  up  at  a  late  hour,  and  the  next  day 
was  devoted  to  the  survey  of  the  harbour,  which  being 
accomplished,  the  restless  anchor  once  more  appeared  at 
the  cathead,  and  the  "  old  John"  again  pointed  herself  for 
the  sea. 


256  A  PRACTICAL   EVIDENCE   OF    ZEAL. 

That  evening  we  were  again  at  Si-mo-da,  the  Japanese 
appearing  not  to  care  a  farthing  about  our  having  visited 
Hey-da,  although  they  had  opposed  it  so  violently  before 
it  was  accomplished. 

Our  stay  at  Si-mo-da  was  now  drawing  to  a  close.  We 
had  resurveyed  the  harbour,  compared  our  work  with 
the  chart  of  Lieutenants  Maury  and  Bent,  of  Perry's 
squadron,  and  found  that  the  destructive  earthquake  and 
its  attendant  sea-wave  which  had  reduced  Si-mo-da  to 
ruins  since  the  visit  of  that  squadron  had  not  perceptibly 
altered  its  formation  or  soundings. 

As  an  evidence  of  the  zeal  by  which  both  officers  and 
men  were  filled  during  this  cruise,  I  will  remark  that, 
about  this  time,  the  idea  of  exploring  and  surveying  the 
coast  of  Nipon  from  Si-mo-da  to  the  northeast  point  of 
the  island,  and  then  crossing  the  stormy  Straits  of 
T'Sugar  to  Ha-ko-da-di,  island  of  Jesso,  in  an  open  boat, 
was  originated  by  some  one  and  subsequently  executed 
with  happy  success.  The  coast-line  to  be  thus  examined 
was  nearly  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  their  charts 
were  very  unreliable,  and  it  was  the  season  when  violent 
gales  were  likely  to  cross  their  track  at  any  moment.  It 
was  undoubtedly  a  most  hazardous  undertaking. 

As  soon  as  the  expedition  was  proposed,  volunteers 
sprang  forward  from  every  quarter,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
officers  and  crew  were  selected,  the  boat  was  prepared 
for  the  unusual  service  and  proclaimed  ready  for  sea. 

She  was  the  largest  boat  carried  by  the  Vinceunes, 
was  known  as  "  the  launch,"  and  measured  probably 
from  four  to  five  tons.  They  had  built  a  light  forecastle- 
deck  forward,  knocked  up  a  few  lockers  aft,  and  rigged 


THE   VINCENNES,  JR.  257 

her  as  a  sloop.  She  carried  a  twelve-pounder  boat- 
howitzer  on  a  pivot,  one  or  two  boxes  of  fixed  ammuni- 
tion, a  change  of  clothes  for  each  man,  and  the  regular 
Government-ration  of  beef  and  pork,  bread,  rice,  whiskey, 
&c.  for  twenty-one  days.  Her  crew  numbered  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  souls,  all  armed  to  the  teeth  and  ready  to 
go  anywhere  in  spite  of  any  thing  the  Japanese  might  say 
or  do ;  for  these  latter,  with  their  usual  annoying  policy, 
had  strongly  objected  to  such  a  thing  as  a  boat  of  light 
draught  running  into  all  the  nooks  and  corners  where  a 
large  vessel  could  not  go,  and  it  was  therefore  necessary 
to  do  it  against  their  wishes. 

Of  course  we  would  not  have  persisted  at  the  expense 
of  life,  but  then  we  knew  well  enough  that  the  Japanese 
were  like  a  large,  savage,  but  quiescent  dog:  walk  by 
him  in  a  quiet,  cool,  unconcerned  manner,  and  he  will 
probably  content  himself  with  keeping  his  eye  upon  you ; 
whereas,  if  you  hesitate  in  your  advance,  he  will  more 
than  probably  spring  at  your  throat 

And  thus  it  was  with  them  and  us.  As  soon  as  we 
stopped  to  show  them  the  consideration  of  asking  their 
consent  to  the  most  simple  measure,  they  would  begin  to 
clear  their  throats  and  advance  more  difiiculties  than  an 
ordinary  man  could  think  of  in  double  the  time ;  and 
these  difficulties  were  always  so  trivial,  and  the  desire  to 
bother  and  retard  us  so  apparent,  that  we  generally  left 
them  in  anger  and  did  what  we  had  in  view,  without  the 
slightest  regard  to  them  or  their  opposition. 

The  launch  was  now  dubbed  the  "Vincennes,  Jr.," 

and  put  under  the  command  of  Acting  Lieutenant  John 

M.  Brooke,  of  the  Vincennes,  Sen.,  who  had  associated 

17 


258  UNPLEASANT   NAVIGATION. 

with  Lim  in  the  risky  undertaking  Messrs.  Edward  Kern, 
artist,  and  Richard  Berry,  sailmaker,  in  addition  to  the 
regular  crew. 

Finally,  the  day  of  sailing  arrived,  and  we  all  put  to 
sea,  leaving  the  nomadics,  their  schooner, — which  had 
now  returned  from  Petropolowski, — and  Cavilosky,  the 
Russian,  in  charge  of  the  harbour.  The  Hancock  sur- 
veyed a  group  of  islands  on  her  route  and  then  made 
the  best  of  her  way  toward  Ha-ko-da-di.  Arrived  near 
the  northeast  point  of  Nipon,  we  fell  in  with  fogs  and 
heavy  weather,  which  made  the  navigation  anj^  thing  but 
safe.  Let  me  turn  to  my  journal  for  an  idea  of  this  un- 
pleasant navigation : — 

"We  were  running  along  the  northeastern  coast  of  the 
island  of  Nipon,  under  both  sail  and  steam,  had  had  no 
observations  for  some  days,  were  enveloped  in  a  fog  that 
might  apparently  have  been  'cut  with  a  knife,'  knew 
that  strong  and  unknown  currents  swept  around  us,  had 
no  chart  from  which  to  get  even  an  idea  of  said  northeast- 
ern coast,  were  any  thing  but  certain  as  to  our  locality, 
felt  that  a  gale  of  wind  was  coming  down  upon  us,  and 
were  nervously  anxious  to  reach  shelter  in  the  harbour 
of  Ha-ko-da-di  before  night.  This  harbour  was  supposed 
to  be  some  fifty  miles  oft';  that  was  where  our  dead 
reckoning  placed  it :  but  then  dead  reckoning  was  pro- 
verbially unreliable,  and  the  unknown  currents  already 
alluded  to  only  added  to  this  uncertainty.  We  were 
steering  what  we  also  supposed  to  be  the  right  course  to 
make  the  northeast  point  of  ISTipon,  before  starting  to 
cross  the  straits  that  separated  it  from  Jesso,  so  that  we 
might  use  it  as  a  fresh  starting-point  in  finding  our  way 


WHERE   ARE   WE   RUNNING    TO  ?  259 

through  the  fog;  but  we  had  expected  to  discover  it 
before  breakfast,  and  it  was  now  getting  toward  noon, 
and  there  was  still  nothing  to  be  seen  but  fog,  fog,  and 
occasionally  a  heavy-winged  sea-bird  breaking  through 
its  dense  folds,  hovering  over  us  for  a  moment,  and  then 
darting  away  from  sight  as  suddenly  as  it  had  appeared. 

"  We  were  going  along  very  fast,  too,  for  the  '  old 
John,' — at  least  eight  or  nine  knots  the  hour;  for  the 
wind  and  sea  were  both  astern,  and,  like  any  other  col- 
lection of  matter,  she  could  not  have  stood  still  under 
such  circumstances  had  she  been  so  disposed.  Besides, 
we  had  also  got  up  steam  that  morning,  and  the  boiling 
water  under  her  Dutch  galliot-like  stern  told  that  the 
propeller  was  also  lending  a  hand  to  urge  her  ahead.  'No 
wonder,  then,  that  she  waddled  along  through  the  water 
and  fog  at  the  above  unusual  rate. 

"  This  unusual  rate  was  a  very  pleasant  thing  as  long 
as  we  had  reason  to  suppose  that  we  were  steering  the 
right  course,  for  the  faster  we  went  on  said  right  course 
the  sooner  we  should  arrive  at  our  port  of  shelter ;  but, 
after  we  had  run  for  an  hour  or  two  beyond  the  time 
when  we  should  have  sighted  the  northeast  point,  we 
began  to  get  anxious  and  to  fear  that  we  might  be  run- 
ning blindfold  toward  some  rock  beyond  the  cape,  or 
upon  some  shelterless  lee  shore,  which  might  at  any  mo- 
ment be  discovered  with  unpleasant  suddenness ;  in  either 
of  which  cases  it  would  have  been  a  '  clew  up  and  furl' 
game  with  the  '  old  John'  and  all  connected  with  her. 
The  captain  and  Carnes,  therefore,  put  their  heads  toge- 
ther over  the  imperfect  chart,  and  concluded  to  change 
our  course  so  as  to  sight  the  land  along  which  we  were 


260  PORT  I    HAR-R-R-D   A-PORT  ! 

running,  and  which  we  knew  to  be  to  the  westward  of  us, 
though  how  far  we  could  only  conjecture 

"The  helm  was  therefore  put  to  starboard;  some  of 
the  lighter  sails  were  taken  in ;  the  others  were  braced 
for  the  wind  on  the  port  beam,  and  every  thing  kept  in 
active  readiness  to  change  back  to  our  old  course  aa 
soon  as  the  land  should  be  discovered  ahead.  In  this 
way  we  ran  on  for  an  hour  or  more,  the  first  lieutenant 
having  the  trumpet  on  the  quarter-deck,  the  officer  of 
the  deck,  whom  he  had  relieved,  being  in  charge  of  the 
forecastle,  to  help  the  look-outs  keep  their  eyes  open, 
and  to  superintend  things  in  general  in  case  of  the 
sudden  change  of  course  which  was  momentarily  ex- 
pected, and  the  crew  being  at  their  stations  for  '  wearing 
ship.' 

"Suddenly,  a  seaman  by  the  name  of  Corcoran, — 
with  whom  Dickens  must  have  been  acquainted  before 
creating  his  character  of  'Bunsby,' — and  who  stood 
near  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  forecastle,  looked  very 
wise,  and  said  he  heard  the  breakers.  This  caused  every 
one  to  listen  intently  and  open  their  eyes  still  wider ;  but 
they  heard  nothing.  Presently  he  said  he  saw  them ; 
and,  as  others  now  heard  them  just  as  he  said  he  saio 
them,  the  officer  in  charge  took  his  word  for  it,  and 
bellowed  out  to  the  quarter-deck,  '  Port !  har-r-r-d  a-port ! 
Breakers  ahead!'  and,  as  the  ship  fell  rapidly  off  under 
the  influence  of  both  propeller  and  sails,  a  long  white 
Ihie  of  boiling  surf  appeared  along  our  port  bow  and 
beam,  and  caused  us  to  congratulate  ourselves  upon  the 
sharp  senses  of  '  Bunsby.' 

"  The  deep-sea  lead,  which  had  been  kept  going  as 


KEEP   A   BRIGHT   LOOK-OUT   AHEAD  !  261 

fast  as  it  could  be  hauled  iu  since  our  change  of  course, 
now  gave  fifteen  fathoms  as  the  depth  of  water!  and, 
as  the  beach  was  not  more  than  four  hundred  yards  oft', 
we  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  close  in  any  more,  but 
ran  along  with  it  at  about  that  depth  and  distance, 
keeping  a  good  look-out  on  each  cathead  and  a  hand- 
lead  going  from  each  of  the  fore-chains. 

"As  we  had  closed  with  the  land  while  standing  in, 
the  fog  had  seemed  to  lighten  considerably,  and  we  now 
ran  along  at  our  old  speed,  keeping  the  breakers  jusi  in 
sight,  and  straining  our  eyes  through  the  fog  ahead  to 
discover  our  long-looked-for  northeast  point.  This  was 
a  most  trying  kind  of  navigation.  For,  suppose  that  we 
should  have  been  running  before  that  wind  and  sea  into 
a  fathomless  bay,  where  we  could  not  have  anchored ;  or 
suppose  a  reef  had  suddenly  been  found,  making  out 
from  the  land  right  across  our  path ! 

" '  Haul  by  the  wind  and  beat  out  of  such  a  dis- 
agreeably-tight place,'  I  think  I  hear  some  seaman 
answer. 

"'Yes;  that  would  do  very  well;  but,  unfortunately, 
the  '  old  John'  could  never  be  persuaded  to  acquit  her- 
self after  that  style,'  is  my  ansAver.  She  was  like  a  crab: 
she  always  went  aste7ii  or  sideways  in  all  sudden  emer- 
gencies,— confound  her !  Suddenly,  as  we  looked,  the 
vague  and  undefined  outlines  of  a  dark  detached  object 
arose  before  us,  and  then  another,  farther  in  the  fog,  as 
the  first  became  more  distant. 

"'Land  ho!'  sang  out  the  look-out.  'Two  islands 
right  ahead,  sir !'  shouted  the  officer  in  charge  of  the 
forecastle. 


262  BREAKERS   AHEAD !    ANOTHER   TIGHT   PLACE. 

"'Port!'  said  the  ready  voice  of  the  first  lieutenant 
to  the  man  at  the  wheel.  'Brace  up  the  head-yards ! 
Quartermaster,  let  the  captain  know  there's  land  re- 
ported ahead.' 

"'Ay,  ay,  sir!'  and,  as  the  messenger  disappeared 
down  the  cahin-hatch,  the  old  ship,  as  if  conscious  of 
her  danger,  swerved  slowly  from  her  course  until  she 
brought  the  newly-discovered  objects  out  upon  her  lee 
bow. 

"  '  Steady  there  !'  exclaimed  the  first  lieutenant.  '  How 
do  you  head  now  ?' 

" '  Nor'-nor'east,  sir,'  replied  the  helmsman,  as  he 
*met  her'  with  the  lee  wheel  and  fired  an  admirable 
shot  at  a  distant  spittoon. 

"  'Very  well.     Keep  her  so. 

"  'Ay,  ay,  sir.' 

"The  after-yards  were  now  braced  for  the  wind  on 
the  starboard  quarter,  and  we  were  soon  running  on 
our  new  course  with  but  slightly-diminished  speed. 

"  '  That's  the  point  we're  looking  for,'  said  Games :  '  I 
know  it  by  those  islands.     We're  all  right  now.' 

"'Breakers  ahead!  breakers  on  the  weather  bow!' 
shouted  the  startled  voices  of  both  look-outs  at  this 
moment. 

"  '  Haul  by  the  wind,  Mr.  McCuUom,'  said  the  captain, 
who  now  came  on  deck,  'and  take  in  the  topgallant-sails.' 

"  So  we  hauled  by  the  wind,  took  in  topgallant-sails, 
and  passed  the  word  to  fire  up  strong.  The  poor  '  old 
John'  was  apparently  in  another  of  her  endless  'tight 
places,'  and  steam  was  the  only  thing  we  could  ever 
hope  to  help  her  with. 


WHAT    DO  YOU    THINK    OF    IT?  263 

We  were  now  'by  the  wind,'  with  the  beach  along 
which  we  had  been  running  looming  up  upon  our 
weather  quarter  and  astern,  with  the  three  islands  (an- 
other having  come  out  of  the  fog  as  we  neared  them) 
on  our  lee  quarter,  and  with  what  was  an  apparent 
reef  of  rocks,  over  which  the  surf  was  breaking  furiously, 
extending  from  the  outer  of  the  three  islands  along  our 
lee  beam  and  well  forward  on  the  lee  bow, — almost  dead 
ahead,  in  fact.  The  wind  also  had  increased  to  a  young 
gale ;  that  is,  we  felt  its  force  much  more  then,  that  we 
were  no  longer  running  away  from  it;  and,  had  we  not 
got  in  the  topgallant-sails  as  soon  as  we  did,  the  masts 
would  certainly  have  gone  over  the  side.  Our  headway, 
too,  was  entirely  deadened,  and,  in  spite  of  the  assisting 
propeller,  it  soon  became  apparent  that  we  were  drifting 
on  to  the  reef. 

"  'What  do  you  think  of  it,  Mr.  Games  ?'  asked  the 
captain.  '  Is  it  a  reef,  or  only  the  strong  current  break- 
ing around  the  point?  The  sailing-directions  speak  of 
three  islands,  but  of  no  reef.' 

"'It  looks  miserably  natural,  sir,'  replied  the  master, 
as  he  continued  regarding  it  through  his  opera-glass;* 
'  but  I  don't  see  how  it  can  well  be  any  thing,  if  this  is 
the  northeast  point:  that's  the  difficulty.' 

"  We  were  at  this  moment  in  a  painful  state  of  doubt 
and  uncertainty,  and  would  have  gladly  hesitated,  had  it 
only  been  to  gain  time  to  think ;  but,  as  we  were  all  the 
while  drifting  toward  the  reef,  immediate  action  was 
what  was  wanted.     Fortunately  for  our  peace  of  mind, 

*  Opera-glasses  are  rapidly  superseding  the  ordinary  "spy-glass"  on 
ship-board,  especially  at  night. 


264  "bunsby"  on  sparrows  and  tailors. 

the  fog  lifted  while  we  were  yet  talking,  and  enabled  us 
to  discern  other  objects  that  established  pretty  well  the 
fact  of  its  being  the  point,  when  we  at  once  knew  that 
the  reef  must  be  but  a  tide-rip,  and  so  determined  to  run 
through  it. 

" '  I'd  trust  to  the  sailing-direction  for  there  being  no 
reef  off  this  point,  and  run  through  it,'  said  the  master. 

"'So  we  will!'  said  the  captain.  'Hard  up  the  helm, 
Mr.  McCuUom,  and  point  her  for  it. 

"  So  the  helm  was  put  hard  up,  and  in  less  than  three 
minutes  more  we  were  entering  the  threatening  streak, 
carrying  no  bottom  at  thirty  fathoms  all  the  while,  and 
with  the  leaping  waters  breaking  over  our  bulwarks  in 
all  directions,  and  in  such  quantities  as  to  cause  us  to 
tremble  for  the  safety  of  the  Vincennes,  Jr.,  whom  we 
knew  would  have  to  round  that  same  point  in  a  few  days, 
and  under,  possibly,  similar  or  worse  circumstances. 
Another  minute,  and  the  supposed  danger  w^as  behind 
us,  when  we  again  breathed  freely,  set  the  topgallant- 
sails,  royals,  and  all  studding-sails,  and  shaped  our  course 
for  Ha-ko-da-di  at  the  rate  of  ten  and  a  half  miles  the 
hour.  It  w^as  a  strange  thing  for  our  old  craft  to  be 
moving  at  that  rate,  and  I  am  almost  afraid  to  tell  of  it ; 
but  then  it  must  be  remembered  that  we  were  under  all 
sail  and  steam,  and  that  a  rising  gale  of  wind  was  follow- 
ing us  in  its  squally  strength. 

"'"Well!  I  never  seed  such  cruisin'  as  this,'  remarked 
Bunsby,  as  he  turned  over  his  tobacco  and  looked  back 
at  the  surf-like  tide-rip  that  crossed  our  track.  'If  the 
Lord,  that  looks  out  for  sparrows  and  tailors,  a' n't  got 
this  old  thing  under  his  speacil  wing,  I  don't  know.' 


WE   RUN    ON   SHORE.  265 

"  A  general  laugh  followed  this  characteristic  ebullitiou. 
Biinsby  had  long  since  become  the  acknowledged  '  ship's 
growler.'  We  subsequently  returned  to  this  point,  and 
made  a  perfect  survey  of  it,  as  well  as  of  the  entire 
straits.  - 

"We  were  now  but  some  forty  miles  from  our  port, — 
the  diagonal  width  of  the  Straits  of  T'Sugar, —  and, 
could  we  but  keep  up  our  then  speed  for  seven  or  eight 
hours,  we  should  get  in  that  night.  So  we  held  on  to  the 
straining  canvas  and  kept  up  full  steam,  for  there  was  a 
five  or  six  knot  current  running  against  us ;  and,  though 
the  gale  continued  to  increase,  and  consequently  to  urge 
us  ahead  at  a  more  headlong  pace  than  ever,  still,  it  also 
created  a  very  high  and  dangerous  'chop-sea,'  which 
broke  continually  over  our  bulwarks,  flooding  our  decks, 
and  in  one  case  filling  a  quarter-boat  so  full  as  to  create 
fears  for  her  safety.  We  again  thought  of  the  poor  little 
Vincennes,  Jr.,  of  her  brave  and  adventurous  officers  and 
crew,  and  wished  them  safely  across  a  passage  which  was 
often  threatening  the  safety  of  even  a  ship  of  our  size. 

"  That  night  we  reached  our  destination  in  safety,  but  we 
had  a  hard  run  of  it ;  and,  if  we  had  been  forced  to  pass 
the  next  twelve  hours  in  darkness  and  at  the  mercy  of  that 
gale  and  six-knot  current,  there  is  no  telling  where  the 
thirteenth  hour  would  have  found  us.  As  it  was,  we 
got  a  glimpse — and  it  was  only  a  glimpse  of  a  moment's 
duration — of  the  promontory  of  Ha-ko-da-di,  just  as  the 
twilight  was  leaving  us;  and  then  we  ran  in  after  dark  by 
guess-work.  It  is  not  surprising,  therefore,  that  we  should 
have  run  on  shore,  which  we  actually  did  do,  though  it  was 
fortunately  well  inside  of  the  capacious  bay,  where  the 


266  SAFE   ARRIVAL    OF   THE  VINCENNES,  JR. 

water  was  smooth  and  the  mud  soft.  That  same  night, 
however,  we  hauled  off  again,  and  the  next  morning 
steamed  up  to  the  regular  anchorage  off  the  town,  where 
our  store-hrig,  an  American  whaling-brig,  and  an  English 
surveying-schooner,  were  quietly  stowed  away  among  a 
fleet  of  the  clumsy-looking  Japanese  junks." 

As  day  by  day  now  rolled  on,  bringing  in  first  the  Vin- 
cennes,  and  then  the  Cooper,  we  continued  to  tremble  for 
the  missing  launch,  and  to  think  that  the  risk  had  been 
almost  too  great. 

Finally,  she  arrived,  to  our  great  satisfaction ;  and  the 
next  day  brought  in  the  nomadics  also,  who  told  us  that 
couriers  had  arrived  daily  at  Si-mo-da  after  our  departure, 
reporting  the  launch  at  her  various  stopping-places  along 
the  coast,  and  causing  the  officials  a  vast  deal  of  annoy- 
ance. Here  is  what  we  learned  from  the  combined  gossip 
of  the  two  vessels.     My  journal  says : — 

"The  Vincennes,  Jr.,  left  Si-mo-da  on  the  morning  of 
a  fine  day,  and  for  some  time  had  a  continuation  of  plea- 
sant wjeather  and  easy  sailing.  They  passed  the  first 
night  in  a  small  bay  some  miles  above  Si-mo-da,  with 
their  boat  anchored  near  the  beach  and  their  tent  pitched 
upon  a  grassy  knoll,  before  which  a  bright  fire  was  soon 
kindled  and  a  warm  supper  subsequently  discussed.  The 
natives  of  a  small  village  near  at  hand  received  them 
quite  civilly,  but  took  care  to  send  a  courier  over  to  Si- 
mo-da,  reporting  their  arrival  and  asking  for  instructions 
as  to  what  they  should  do.  The  arrival  of  this  messenger 
at  Si-mo-da  is  said  to  have  caused  no  little  annoyance  to 
the  pompous  officials  before  whom  he  presented  himself, 
and  they  immediately  started  Tatz-nosky  in  hot  haste  to 


TATZ-NOSKY   RIDES   POST,  267 

drive  our  explorers  to  sea.  They  had  no  difficulty  in 
recognising  the  launch,  from  the  drawing  which  was 
sent  of  her,  as  the  boat  which  had  left  their  harbour 
in  the  morning,  and  to  which  they  refused  permission 
to  survey  along  their  coast.  Tatz-nosky  rode  upon 
a  Government-horse,  and  doubtless  '  used  him'  as  hard 
as  Government-horses  are  generally  used  under  similar 
circumstances;  but,  when  he  arrived  at  the  end  of  his 
journey,  the  Vincennes,  Jr.,  had  stood  out  to  sea,  and 
he  had  the  pleasure  of  riding  back  again.  Had  he  been 
a  well-read  European,  he  would  doubtless  have  hummed 
upon  his  return-journey  the  once-popular  ditty  of  which 
this  is  a  part : — 

"  ♦  The  King  of  France,  with  twenty  thousand  men, 
March'd  up  a  hill,  and  then  march'd  down  again.' 

"Our  explorers  were  equally  fortunate  on  the  second 
evening  of  their  cruise,  so  far  as  passing  a  quiet  night  was 
concerned.  They  found  another  little  cove,  into  which 
they  retreated  before  the  approach  of  a  squally  night,  and 
entailed  a  long  ride  upon  a  second  courier;  which,  in 
turn,  mounted  poor  Tatz-nosky  again  upon  his  Govern- 
ment-hack. But  he  had  not  proceeded  half-way  on  his 
road  this  time  before  he  was  met  by  a  third  courier,  who 
informed  him  that  their  visitors  had  departed  with  the 
early  dawn.  They  were  like  the  Irishman's  flea : — '  put 
your  finger  on  him,  and  he  isn't  there.' 

"  In  this  way  they  cruised  along  quite  smoothly,  making 
good  time  during  the  day  before  favourable  winds,  and 
seeking  shelter  at  night  in  quiet  little  coves  which  they 
generally  were  so  fortunate  as  to  fall   in  with  toward 


268       GREAT  PERIL  OF  THE  VINCENNES,  JR. 

evening.  After  a  while,  however,  '  a  change  came  o'er 
the  spirit  of  their  dream,'  in  the  shape  of  a  gale  of  wind, 
when  they  would  fain  have  run  into  some  of  the  '  quiet 
coves'  that  had  befriended  them  so  far ;  but  unfortunately 
they  had  arrived  at  a  long  stretch  of  iron-bound  coast  by 
that  time,  that  warned  them  that  their  greatest  safety  now 
consisted  in  keeping  at  a  reasonable  distance  from  the 
land :  so  they  had  to  work  through  it  as  best  they  could, 
eating  cold  and  uncooked  provisions,  being  knocked 
about  in  a  most  dangerous  manner  by  the  heavy  seas, 
and  passing  altogether  any  thing  but  a  pleasant  time. 

"Now,  as  long  as  that  state  of  things  lasted,  they  were 
in  great  danger ;  but  they  were  fortunately  included 
among  Bunsby's  tailors  and  sparrows,  and  got  to  the  end 
of  the  iron-bound  coast  in  safety,  after  having  narrowly 
escaped  foundering  one  unusually  stormy  night.  The 
heavy  weather  still  continued,  however,  and  made  the 
rest  of  the  passage  rough  and  dangerous  in  the  extreme : 
still,  they  accomplished  it  with  safety,  if  not  comfort,  as 
far  as  the  northeast  point,  where  they  encountered  the 
tide-rip  which  had  caused  us  of  the  '  old  John'  so  much 
annoyance,  but  which  their  little  craft  then  crossed  quite 
easily,  there  being  only  a  moderate  breeze  by  that  time, 
while  we  had  had  a  gale  following  us. 

"In  short,  she  arrived  safely  in  Ha-ko-da-di  on  her 
twenty-first  night  out,  much  to  our  relief  and  greatly  to 
the  surprise  of  the  Japanese  fishermen,  who  wondered 
greatly  to  see  a  craft  of  her  size  cruising  along  their 
stormy  coasts.  That  same  day  she  was  unrigged  and 
hoisted  into  the  Vincennes  again,  and  thus  was  her 
perilous  voyage  happily  terminated.     The  foregoing  is  a 


OUR  LAST  SUPPLY  OF  COAL  AND  PROVISIONS.    269 

very  fair  specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  we  were  often 
exposed  during  that  surveying  cruise  around  the  world." 
We  were  now  to  remain  about  Ha-ko-da-di  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  days,  taking  in  coal  and  salt  provisions  from  the 
Hamburg  brig  Greta,  which  we  had  chartered  at  Hong- 
Kong  to  meet  us  at  this  point,  and  surveying  the  harbour 
and  Straits  of  T^Sugar,  (erroneously  pronounced  Sangar,) 
after  which  we  were  to  separate  to  meet  no  more  until 
our  arrival  at  San  Francisco. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

HOW  BRASS  BUTTONS  ARE  VALUED  IN  JAPAN,  AND  HOW  PARTRIDGES  ARE 
THERE  TRANSFORMED  INTO  SINGINQ-BIRDS — HOW  WE  VISITED  A  SEA- 
GOD's  TEMPLE,  AND  HOW  A  GERMAN  EXPLORER  PREFERRED  REMAINING 
OUTSIDE — HOW  SOME  AMERICANS  LEANED  ON  COMMODORE  PERRY'S 
TREATY,     AND    HOW    IT    GAVE     WAY     UNDER    THEM. 

We  found  Ha-ko-da-di  a  very  different  place  from  Si- 
mo-da, — at  least  treble  its  size,  and  situated  at  the  foot  of 
a  curved  and  towering  promontory,  which,  joined  to  the 
main  by  a  long  low  neck  of  land,  forms  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  harbours  in  the  world. 

"We  now  turned  our  attention  to  the  Greta,  and  several 
days  were  devoted  to  transferring  her  cargo  of  coal  to 
our  exhausted  bunkers  and  replenishing  our  supplies  of 
provisions  for  the  use  of  the  crew.  As  for  ourselves, — 
the  officers, — there  was  no  such  luck  in  store.  During 
this  time  we  walked  over  most  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, to  the  infinite  terror  of  old  women  and  small  chil- 
dren, and  made  daily  hauls  with  our  seine  along  the 
inner  shore  of  the  bay,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the 
Japanese  authorities  and  to  our  own  especial  edification 
about  meal-hours. 

During  one  of  these  walks,  Hartman  and  myself  bar- 
tered away  a  number  of  brass  buttons  for  several  articles 
of  religious  worship,  and  returned  on  board  in  high  glee. 

The  next  day  the  doctor,  while  upon  a  similar  excursion, 
270 


HOW  THEY  VALUE  BRASS  BUTTONS.         271 

met  a  countryman  with  a  wicker-basket  containing  ten  or 
a  dozen  fine  plump  partridges ;  and,  as  they  were  eating 
which  we  had  not  enjoyed  for  many  months,  he  hauled 
out  several  silver  dollars  on  the  spur  of  the  moment  and 
offered  to  "buy  the  lot."  The  man  refused,  however, 
and  was  walking  off,  when  some  one  exclaimed,  "  Try 
him  with  the  buttons !"  at  which  the  doctor  hauled  out  a 
handful  of  them  and  made  signs  that  he  would  barter. 
The  fellow  now  halted,  and,  after  examining  them,  inti- 
mated that  he  would  give  a  partridge  for  a  button,  and,  to 
the  delight  of  the  party,  handed  over  the  entire  basket  for 
a  'dozen  or  so  of  buttons.  The  next  day  they  were  eaten 
with  great  gusto,  and,  just  as  we  got  up  from  the  table,  a 
high  officer  came  on  board  with  the  interpreter,  and  com- 
plained that  "  some  Americans  had  been  many  miles 
back  in  the  country  and  bought  some  poor  people's 
household  gods,  and  that  another  party  had  forced  a  poor 
man  to  sell  them  all  of  his  singing-birds:"  at  the  end  of 
which  he  hauled  out  every  button  that  we  had  traded,  re- 
turning them  to  the  captain,  and  requested  that  the 
"household  gods"  and  "singing-birds"  be  returned. 

Now,  here  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  cunning  of 
those  people.  There  was  an  abundance  of  partridges 
on  the  island  of  Jesso ;  and,  had  that  officer  come  on 
board  and  demanded  the  return  of  a  poor  man's  birds, 
we  should  have  said,  "Why  do  not  you  officers  provide 
us  birds  to  eat?"  and  he  could  have  answered  nothing: 
whereas,  when  we  now  asked  the  question,  he  shrugged 
his  shoulders,  and  said  singing-birds  were  never  eaten. 

Fortunately  it  was  too  late  to  return  them ;  but,  the 
captain  having  asked  Hartman  and  myself  seriously  in 


272  THEY   OBJECT   TO    OUR    HAULING    THE    SEINE. 

regard  to  the  household  gods,  we  could  not  deny  that  we 
were  the  parties,  and  were  consequently  requested  to  give 
them  up.  We  had  great  luck  in  seine-hauling,  and  this, 
too,  seemed  to  trouble  them  considerably.  They  evi- 
dently envied  us  the  boat-loads  of  fine  salmon,  trout, 
perch,  and  flounders  which  we  daily  carried  on  board, 
and  determined  to  stop  the  sport.  They  told  the  captain 
that  the  people  in  and  about  Ha-ko-da-di  were  very 
poor ;  that  they  lived  almost  entirely  upon  fish,  and 
that  if  we  went  on  in  that  way  much  longer  they  would 
be  in  a  starving  condition.  This  was  simply  absurd,  as 
there  were  dozens  of  their  own  seines  beinsc  hauled  in 
the  harbour  every  day,  and  one  of  theirs  was  as  large  as 
half  a  dozen  of  ours  would  have  been.  Probably  "  absurd" 
is  too  mild  a  term;  hut,  as  I  am  "talking  behind  their 
backs"  as  it  were,  I  will  content  myself  with  it. 

The  captain  replied  carelessly  that  if  they  would  sell  us 
what  fish  we  wanted  the  seine  should  be  used  no  more,  hut 
that  if  worthless  or  half-decayed  fish  were  sent  they  would 
be  thrown  overboard  and  a  seining-party  sent  on  shore 
at  once.  To  this  the  high  ofiicer  replied  that  we  should 
thereafter  be  regularly  supplied  with  fine  fresh  salmon  ; 
and  the  next  day  he  sent  on  board  three  of  that  kind  of 
fish,  which  looked  very  well  at  a  distance,  but  which  we 
refused  to  accept  upon  a  closer  inspection,  as  their  gills 
were  already  turning  green  and  four  dollars  were  asked 
for  them.  They  were  consequently  thrown  overboard 
and  the  seining-party  once  more  landed  on  the  beach. 

We  had  not  got  our  first  haul  half-way  on  shore  when 
several  two-sworded  ofllcials,  attended  by  some  ten  or  fif- 
teen inferiors,  gathered  about  the  spot,  apparently  actu- 


ANOTHER    KICKING-MATCH.  273 

ated  only  by  curiosity.  A±"ter  a  while,  however,  they  took 
it  upon  themselves  to  drive  off  some  poor  people  who 
were  picking  up  the  refuse  fish,  at  which  I  beckoned  to 
the  three  men  nearest  me,  and — considerably  emboldened 
by  the  action  of  "the  prophet"  at  Si-mo-da — gave  the 
ofiicers  several  hearty  kicks,  when  they  ran  off  in  great 
confusion,  tripping  over  their  swords  and  being  followed 
by  their  ten  or  fifteen  attendants.  We  then  called  the 
poor  people  back,  one  of  whom  was  so  delighted  at  the 
turn  which  things  had  taken  that  he  at  once  commenced 
eating  his  fish  raw,  to  our  extreme  disgust.  He  would 
pick  a  six-inch  fellow  up  out  of  the  sand  by  the  tail,  give 
him  a  flirt  through  the  water  to  wash  the  sand  oft',  and 
then  commence  by  biting  oft*  the  entire  head,  after  which 
he  went  regularly  down  to  the  tail,  which  he  only  threw 
away  to  enable  him  to  grasp  another.  In  justice  to  the 
Japanese  at  large,  however,  I  must  say  that  this  was  the 
only  thing  of  the  kind  we  ever  saw. 

The  kicking  which  we  had  administered  to  the  ofiicials 
seemed  to  have  had  the  desired  eftect.  They  did  not  re- 
appear to  trouble  us,  and  we  shortly  returned  on  board 
with  a  well-loaded  boat,  and  continued  our  sport  daily  as 
Jong  as  we  remained.  In  this  way  one  boat  and  a  dozen 
men  supplied  our  entire  ship's-compauy  with  fine  fish; 
while,  had  we  consented  to  be  browbeaten  by  the  arro- 
gant officials,  they  would  have  furnished  us  an  uncertain 
and  stale  supply  at  a  greater  cost  than  a  butcher  in  the 
United  States  would  charge  for  supplying  a  ship's  crew 
with  beef  and  vegetables. 

At  Ha-ko-da-di  we  found  public  bathing  conducted 
exactly  as  at  Si-mo-da,  and  in  all  other  respects  the  people 

18 


274  WE    PREPARE   TO   VISIT   A   SEA-GOd's   TEMPLE. 

seemed  similar.  As  a  matter  of  course  they  were  even 
more  wild,  for  they  had  seen  less  of  foreigners ;  and,  if 
possible,  the  two-sworded  gentlemen  evinced  a  stronger 
disposition  to  follow  our  tracks,  but  one  or  two  properly- 
applied  kicks  soon  cured  them  of  that  weakness. 

We  found  several  objects  of  interest  around  the  shores 
of  this  magnificent  bay,  the  most  prominent  of  which 
was  a  marine  cave  of  vast  dimensions  chambered  out  of 
the  rocky  breast  of  the  towering  and  surf-worn  promon- 
tory of  Ila-ko-da-di  by  some  past  convulsion  of  nature, 
and  now  dedicated  by  the  Japanese  fishermen  to  their 
sea-god,  whose  aid  they  there  invoke  to  calm  the  raging 
of  the  sea  or  to  bless  their  coast  with  endless  shoals  of 
salmon.  The  very  existence  of  this  half-submarine,  half- 
subterranean  place  of  worship  would  probably  have 
never  been  known  to  us  had  our  ship  been  any  thing  but 
a  surveying-vessel;  but  the  nature  of  the  service  required 
at  our  hands  took  us  everywhere^  and,  if  the  "old  John" 
couldn't  go  herself,  she  sent  one  or  more  of  her  six  boats 
to  act  for  her. 

It  was  in  this  way  that  the  archlike  entrance  to  the 
cave  was  discovered, — one  of  our  boats,  while  engaged  in 
the  survey  of  the  harbour,  having  entered  just  far  enough 
to  determine  that  it  was  a  cave,  and  one,  too,  of  no  incon- 
siderable extent.  As  soon,  therefore,  as  the  survey  was 
completed,  an  exploring-party  was  organized  to  enter  and 
examine  it  thoroughly,  and  to  that  end  quite  extensive 
preparations  were  necessary. 

It  was  reported  as  being  horribly  dark,  even  at  the 
mouth,  could  only  be  entered  in  a  boat,  and  that  the  roar- 
ing of  a  heavy  surf  or  waterfall  had  been  heard  from  the 


WHAT   SOME    OF    US   HAD    BETTER    DO.  275 

outside.  Our  informant  also  stated  that  a  heavy  swell 
rolled  into  it,  that  its  rocky  mouth  was  whitened  by  a 
sulphurous  vapour,  and  that,  from  the  current  which  set 
into  it,  there  was  evidently  another  outlet :  should  this 
other  outlet  prove  to  be  a  whirlpool,  or  even  an  ordinary 
waterfall,  a  boat-load  of  human  beings,  without  light  and 
utterly  ignorant  of  the  locality,  would  find  themselves 
most  unpleasantly  situated.  We  consequently  armed 
ourselves  with  lanterns,  matches,  lines,  knives,  hammer 
and  nails,  &c.  before  leaving  the  ship,  and,  as  the  crew 
had  been  worked  hard  lately,  took  the  dingy  and  her  two 
boys  to  pull  us  to  the  scene  of  action. 

The  party  consisted  of  nine,  all  told, — quite  enough  to 
crowd  into  a  small  boat  that  was  going  to  feel  her  vxiy, 
through  a  darkness  like  that  of  night,  to  the  bottom  of 
an  unknown  cave.  Six  of  us  were  oflicers  of  the  ship,  a 
seventh  was  the  German  supercargo  of  the  Greta,  and 
the  remaining  two  were  the  dingy-boys, — the  same  two 
dangerously-encased  juveniles  who  had  landed  Mahomet, 
Bridleman,  and  myself  so  successfully  at  Si-mo-da  upon 
the  occasion  of  the  former  persuading  the  mountain  to 
"move  oif"  in  a  southerly  direction. 

Our  German  friend  was  quite  talkative  at  first,  indulg- 
ing us  with  vivid  descriptions  of  various  European  caves 
which  he  had  explored  in  early  life,  and  enlarging  upon 
the  feelings  of  intense  interest  which  such  enterprises 
were  calculated  to  create  in  the  inquiring  mind.  As  we 
drew  near  to  the  cave,  however,  he  became  rather  taciturn 
than  otherwise,  and,  as  w^e  reached  its  mouth  and  the 
order  was  given  to  "hold  water"  with  the  oars  while 
the  plan  of  procedure  was  being  determined  upon,  he 


276       ONE  OF  THE  PARTY  DOES  NOT  LIKE  IT. 

hazarded  the  remark  that  "  some  vones  more  better  make 
stops  outside  ze  rocks,  vile  ze  iizzer  vones  goes  in;"  but 
in  this  he  was  overruled  at  once,  and,  a  deep-sea  lead-line 
having  been  securely  fastened  to  a  projecting  fragment 
of  rock,  we  backed  boldly  in  under  the  gloomy  and  re- 
sounding archway.  Keeping  a  light  strain  on  the  line,  to 
"hold  on  by"  should  the  possible  whirlpool  prove  a 
reality,  the  oars  were  taken  in,  and,  with  boat-hooks  and 
hands,  we  urged  her  cautiously  through  the  thickening 
gloom. 

And  now  the  German  proved  to  be  right  in  one  thing. 
It  was  "intensely  interesting  to  our  inquiring  minds,"  as 
the  boat  dropped  slowly  away  from  daylight,  rising  and 
falling  over  the  heavy  swell  and  grating  harshly  against 
unseen  projections  of  the  rocky  sides.  We  began  to 
think  that  the  roof  of  the  archway  might  get  lower  with 
unpleasant  suddenness  as  we  progressed,  and  that  the  next 
swell  might  inform  us  of  the  fact  b}^  mashing  our  heads 
against  it ;  for  it  was  so  very  dark  that,  even  with  our 
lights,  we  could  not  see  the  rugged  walls  against  which 
we  were  scraping.  The  feeling  at  last  became  so  intensely 
interesting  to  the  supercargo  himself,  that  he  again  be- 
came communicative.  "Vel!  vel!  I  don't  loiks  zis!"  he 
said,  nervously ;  "  much  better  take  some  vone  out  of  ze 
boat.  'Tis  var  small  boat  for  so  many  peoples.  I  vaits 
outside  for  some  time.     I  not  loiks  zis." 

I  must  confess  that  I  didn't  "loik"  it  myself;  and  the 
feeling,  passing  down  into  my  fingers,  caused  them  to 
tighten  their  grasp  around  the  line,  until  the  boat  came 
to  a  stand-still. 

"Hillo!  what's  the  matter?"  asked  Games. 


SQUIRES   THINKS   HE    KNOWS   WHAT    HE'S   ABOUT.        277 

"Slack  the  line,  H ,  and  let  her  go  in,"  said  the 

doctor.     (Said  H ,  who  was  seated  in  the  bows,  with 

his  feet  braced  firmly  against  the  stem,  thought  he'd 
much  better  Jiold  on  to  the  line  until  he  could  see  where 
he  was  going  to  slack  her  to.) 

"I  feel  bottom!"  exclaimed  Squires,  who  was  leaning 
over  the  side  with  a  boat-hook. 

"You  feel  the  mischief!"  said  Lawton.  "You're  feel- 
ing the  boat's  bottom." 

"I  suppose  I  know  what  I'm  about!"  retorted  the  in- 
dignant feeler:  "darkness  don't  keep  one  froui  feeling." 

"I  not  loiks  it!"  broke  in  the  German;  "much  better 
vone,  two,  three,  at  vonce.     Boat  var  small." 

"  Well,  let's  haul  out  again  and  leave  half  on  the 
rocks,"  said  another,  who  evidently  began  to  think  with 
him. 

"Well,  all  right!"  exclaimed  several  more  of  the  party. 
I  didn't  say  much,  but  hung  back  on  the  line  with  such 
effect  as  to  change  night  into  day  in  a  most  amazingly 
short  space  of  time.  I  didn't  like  the  gurgling  noises  in 
our  rear:  they  sounded  too  much  like  a  subterranean 
Avatercourse  to  make  it  pleasant. 

"  Vel,  I  gets  out,"  said  the  German,  as  we  ranged  up 
alongside  of  the  entrance. 

"Oh,  no!  you'd  better  hold  on,"  said  he  who  had 
accused  Squires  of  feeling  the  boat's  bottom. 

"No,  but  I  loiks  better  here,"  replied  the  former 
explorer  of  European  caves,  as  he  jumped  upon  the 
rocks  and  advised  that  "vone,  two,  three,  more  better  at 
vonce." 

One  by  one  the  party  followed  his  example,  until  there 


278  EXCITEMENT,  DARKNESS,  AND    BATS. 

were  but  four  of  us  left  to  make  the  second  attempt, — 
the  doctor,  the  master,  he  who  had  accused  him  of  the 
boat-hook  of  feeling  the  w^rong  bottom,  and  myself. 

Backing  in  as  before,  we  progressed  backward  quite 
smoothly  until  arrived  near  our  former  stopping-place, 
when  the  doctor  wisely  remarked  that  "  we'd  better  hold 
on  a  minute  until  our  eyes  became  accustomed  to  the 
darkness:  probably  we  might  be  able  to  see."  So  my 
fingers  again  tautened  around  the  line,  and  the  party 
came  to  another  halt.  The  wisdom  of  this  proceeding 
soon  made  itself  apparent,  and  then  we  began  to  wonder 
why  some  one  hadn't  thought  of  it  before.  The  dark 
outlines  of  a  vast  and  dome-like  apartment  became  now 
every  moment  more  distinct,  until,  with  the  assistance  of 
our  lights,  we  could  see  passably  well.  "Humph!"  said 
one;  "there's  no  whirlpool,  after  all:  it's  only  the  surf 
rolling  in  among  the  rocks."  "I  don't  believe  there's 
any  current  sets  in,  either:  it's  all  humbug,"  said  another. 
"Give  her  a  shove  astern,  H ." 

So  I  slackened  the  line,  and,  trusting  to  the  eyes  in  the 
other  end  of  the  boat,  gave  her  a  most  energetic  shove. 

"There  it  is!"  '■'•Now  we're  in  for  it!"  '■'■Trim  boat!" 
"  Haul  out,  H !"     "  Cor\foimd  the  bats !" 

These  confused  and  excited  exclamations  were  the  re- 
sult of  three  things.  The  "energetic  shove"  had  landed 
the  old  boat's  stern  on  a  sunken  rock,  which  we  subse- 
quently found  to  be  located  exactly  in  mid-channel.  Se- 
condly, the  swell  leaving  her  there,  she  canted  over  and 
came  within  an  ace  of  spilling  us  all  out.  Lanterns  were 
let  full,  the  better  to  enable  their  holders  to  look  out  for 
"No.  1,"  and  the  candles  took  advantage  of  the  occasion 


,;;,  /, 


(iiiiSiiiiSi 


^  'i 


n* 


WE  SUCCEED  AFTER  A  TERRIBLE  FRIGHT.      279 

to  go  out.  Thirdly,  a  hundred  or  more  bats,  alarmed  by 
such  unusual  noises,  left  their  various  stow-holes,  and, 
flying  in  our  faces,  added  their  disgusting  contact  to  the 
general  drawbacks  of  the  adventure.  I  began  to  wish 
myself  with  the  German,  and,  in  order  to  gratify  the 
longing,  hauled  heavily  on  the  ever-friendly  line,  and 
with  the  next  swell  we  righted  to  an  even  keel  and 
surged  ahead  clear  of  the  rock.  We  were  no  sooner 
again  upright,  however,  than  our  courage  returned,  and 
we  came  to  another  halt  and  began  feeling  about  for  the 
lanterns  and  matches.  These  found  and  lit,  we  noticed 
that  the  fright  had  considerably  sharpened  our  sense  of 
vision :  I  suppose  our  eyes  had  by  this  time  adapted 
themselves  to  the  darkness. 

"We  now  backed  in  again,  slackening  the  line  with 
more  confidence,  and  poling  her  clear  of  the  sunken  rock 
with  boat-hooks.  Once  inside  of  that,  we  were  all  right, 
and  the  next  moment  the  party  jumped  on  one  of  the 
large  boulders  of  massive  granite  that  apparently  com- 
posed the  flooring  of  the  cave,  while  I  returned  for  the 
outsiders  in  a  mqst  triumphant  mood. 

This  time  we  got  in  without  any  difficulty,  one  of  those 
already  there  having  remained  on  the  boulder  with  his 
light,  to  warn  us  as  to  the  bearing  of  the  sunken  rock, 
which,  being  between  him  and  the  entrance,  was  plainly 
visible  as  the  swell  broke  over  it. 

Leaving  one  of  the  boys  in  the  boat  to  keep  her  clear 
of  the  rocks,  we  now  lit  our  candles  and  commenced 
climbing  over  the  boulders  toward  the  centre  of  the 
dome,  where  we  could  see  the  dim  and  uncertain  outlines 
of  a  truncated  cone,  upon  the  top  of  which  was  perched 


280  WHAT   WE    SAW    IN   THE    SEA-GOD'S   TEMPLE. 

something  very  much  like  an  ordinary  dog-kennel.  This 
was  by  no  means  pleasant  climbing,  as  one  every  now  and 
then  put  his  hand  upon  a  king-crab,  a  young  bat,  or  some 
object  equally  pleasant  to  the  touch :  still,  we  climbed  on, 
and  finally  reached  the  top. 

It  proved  to  be  a  rugged  mound,  half  rock  and  half 
earth,  and  the  dog-kennel  to  be  a  grotesquely-carved  josh- 
house,  within  whose  closed  portals  we  discovered  a  finely- 
executed  bronze  casting  of  their  sea-god.  A  number  of 
copper  cash  were  around  about  his  sacred  feet,  and  a 
gilded  serpent  twined  around  his  head  and  reared  its 
wide-spread  jaws  over  the  stupid  Oriental  eyes  of  the 
image.  Altogether  it  was  a  most  singular-looking  "josh," 
and  more  than  one  of  the  party  (as  it  was  subsequently 
acknowledged,  though  every  one  protested  at  the  time 
that  it  would  be  a  wanton  outrage  against  the  Japanese) 
came  to  the  secret  determination  to  get  possession  of  it 
before  leaving  the  port.  No  one  had  the  face  to  molest 
it  then,  from  the  simple  fact  that  we  knew  that  the  Ja- 
panese spies  had  kept  their  glasses  (they  get  these 
through  the  Dutch  at  Nan-ga-sa-ki)  on  ouf  every  movement 
isince  leaving  the  ship,  and  that  they  would  visit  the  cave 
immediately  after  night  to  see  if  we  had  carried  oflT  any 
thing.  So  we  went  away  empty-handed,  if  I  may  except 
an  unfortunate  young  bat  which  was  mercilessly  crowded 
into  a  large-mouthed  bottle  by  our  enterprising  assistant 
naturalist  and  acting  junior  engineer,  L.  M.  Squires,  Esq. 

While  making  our  exit  from  this  heathen  temple,  we 
noticed  that  the  archway  which  led  to  it  was  about 
one  hundred  yards  long,  crooked  like  an  elbow,  from 
five  to  ten  yards  in  width,   and  of  an  average  height 


THEY    RETURN   THANKS    TOO    SOON.  281 

of  about  fifteen  feet;  while  the  water  measured  seven 
fathoms  at  the  mouth,  decreasing  as  you  neared  the 
rotunda. 

Knowing  all  this,  it  was  very  easy  for  me  to  return 
for  Mr.  Josh  a  few  days  later :  but  the  sleepy  old  fellow 
had  disappeared ;  and,  whether  the  Japanese  fisherman 
or  one  of  our  own  party  had  anticipated  me,  I  have 
never  learned  to  this  day. 

Among  other  shell-fish  we  found  a  very  fine  mussel 
along  the  shores  of  this  bay,  which  took  the  place  of 
inferior  oysters  admirably.  I  don't  know  what  we 
should  have  thought  of  them  had  we  had  access  to 
an  ordinary  market-place;  but,  living  on  salt  beef  as 
we  then  were,  they  proved  any  thing  but  unacceptable. 

Having  almost  completed  the  survey  of  the  Straits 
of  T' Sugar,  which  separate  the  great  island  of  Nipon 
from  that  of  Jesso,  the  Vincennes  and  Cooper  now 
sailed  upon  their  last  cruises  previous  to  our  arrival 
at  San  Francisco,  while  the  "old  John"  remained  quietly 
at  her  anchor.  Seeing  the  Vincennes  and  Cooper  thus 
put  to  sea,  and  knowing  we  were  to  follow  their  example 
upon  the  following  day,  the  Japanese  "  chin-chined 
Josh"  to  an  alarming  extent,  thanking  their  idols  for 
relieving  them  of  the  foreign  vessels.  The  sound  of  their 
huge  drums  and  shrill  wind  instruments  had  scarcely 
died  away,  however,  when  a  fresh  arrival  took  place  in 
the  shape  of  three  English  war-steamers,  one  of  which 
was  towing  a  fourth.  This  latter  we  at  once  took  to  be 
the  Russian  steamer  Vostock ;  but,  as  she  drew  nearer, 
she  proved  to  be  our  old  friend  the  Tartar,  with  whose 
officers  we   were   acquainted.      "We   therefore  went  on 


282       now  THE  "beggars"  leave  Castries  bay. 

board  to  pay  them  a  visit  and  hear  the  news ;  for  the 
last  time  we  had  seen  them  (during  our  survey  of  the 
straits)  it  had  been  reported  that  the  English  and  French 
cruisers  had  discovered  the  Russian  squadron  stowed 
away  in  the  Bay  of  Castries,  and  we  thought,  of  course, 
that  there  had  been  a  grand  battle. 

Upon  reaching  the  deck  we  were  received  by  the  most 
disgusted-looking  set  of  warriors  that  I  ever  looked 
upon.  "We  shook  hands  warmly,  and  tried  to  get  them 
to  tell  us  about  "the  fight;"  but  all  we  could  get  out 
of  them  for  a  long  while  were  the  following  words : — 
"  The  beggars  cut  stick  in  a  heavy  fog,  and  left  us  suck- 
ing our  fingers."  After  a  while,  however,  they  became 
more  communicative,  and  we  learned  as  follows : — 

While  Admiral  Sterling,  in  the  Winchester  frigate, 
with  the  assistance  of  the  steamer  Hornet,  was  block- 
ading the  Russian  vessels  moored  in  Castries  Bay,  a  fresh 
gale  blew  on  shore,  causing  him  to  haul  his  wind  for 
an  ofling;  and,  when  this  gale  with  its  accompanying 
fog  had  passed  over,  the  Russians  had  disappeared,  ships 
and  all.  The  Hornet  immediately  landed  a  party,  who 
found  things  in  great  disorder,  there  being  all  the  ap- 
pearances of  a  hasty  flight.  Bread  just  done  to  a  turn 
w'as  found  in  the  oven.  Twenty  barrels  of  good  flour, 
a  quantity  of  spars,  and,  lastly,  some  ladies'  dresses  and 
trinkets  were  also  found :  these  latter  were  retained  by 
the  captain  of  the  Hornet  to  be  restored  to  their  owner 
on  a  future  occasion.  A  daguerreotype  of  a  lady  was 
also  found  which  had  been  taken  in  London. 

Our  friends  told  us  all  this,  and  ended  by  saying  that 
the  "  beggars"  must  be  somewhere  in  the  Gulf  of  Tartary, 


I   WEATHER   BUST-PROOF   AND    HIS    MASTER.  283 

and  that  they  would  soon  find  them  again ;  but  we  of 
the  "old  John,"  some  three  months  later,  learned,  from 
one  of  the  Russians  themselves,  that  they  passed  through 
the  head  of  the  gulf  and  into  the  Amoor  River,  where 
they  had  fortified  themselves  in  the  hope  that  they  would 
be  followed.  It  had  always  been  a  received  truth  that 
there  was  no  passage  between  the  island  of  Sagalien 
and  the  mainland ;  hence  the  mistake  of  the  Allies. 

On  the  29th  of  June,  1855,  we  left  Ha-ko-da-di  through 
a  dense  fog,  in  order  that,  when  the  usual  clearing-away 
at  noon  took  place,  we  should  be  in  a  position  to  con- 
clude our  survey  of  the  Straits  of  T'Sugar,  having  been 
directed  to  end  that  work  previous  to  proceeding  up 
the  west  coast  of  Jesso.  In  order  to  facilitate  the  ac- 
complishment of  this  task,  I  was  ordered  to  take  the 
armed  launch,  twelve  men,  a  week's  provisions,  tent,  &c., 
and  follow  the  coast  as  far  down  as  a  station  known  as 
""West  Point,"  where  we  were  to  be  picked  up  by  the 
ship  at  the  end  of  three  days. 

By  means  of  various  ingenious  devices  —  such  as 
enlarging  upon  the  great  number  of  deer  that  we  would 
fall  in  with  while  "camping  out,"  &c.  &c.  —  I  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  secure  the  companionship  of  old  bust- 
proof  and  his  master  for  this  expedition ;  but,  before 
it  was  over,  the  latter  lost  all  confidence  in  my  predic- 
tions, and  concluded  to  oil  up  his  favourite  and  stow 
him  away  for  an  indefinite  period  when  he  should  re- 
turn on  board.  We  also  carried  along  with  us  one  of 
the  tightly-encased  small  boys  of  dingy  notoriety,  to 
take  charge  of  the  contents  of  our  camp-kettle,  &c. 
His   name   was  Mr.  John  Jeremiah  McCarty,   and  he 


284  A    CI-DEVANT   TAILOR   STANDS    POST. 

was  equal  to  all  the  other  boys  in  the  ship  as  far  as 
juvenile  rascality  and  activity  vrere  concerned. 

The  fog  clearing  off  at  noon,  we  left  the  "old  John"  in 
high  glee  and  commenced  the  work.  West  Point  proved 
to  he  about  half-way  between  Ha-ko-da-di  and  the  larger 
city  of  Matsmai,  and  was  reached  toward  the  close  of 
the  second  day,  when  we  pitched  tent  for  the  second 
time,  and  amused  ourselves  by  breaking  one  of  the 
agreements  ajypended  to  the  treaty  by  shooting  several 
finely-jflavoured  wild  ducks,  with  red  legs  and  feet  and 
pointed  bills.  When  subsequently  spoken  to  about 
thus  breaking  the  treaty,  I  threw  the  blame  on  the 
Japanese  officers  themselves,  who,  probably  from  a  desire 
to  see  how  our  guns  carried,  had  strongly  advocated  the 
act  by  unmistakable  signs  and  gestures.  It  is  astonishing 
how  well  people  can  make  themselves  understood  upon 
agreeable  subjects,  though  unable  to  speak  a  word  of 
each  other's  language.  In  this  case  we  understood  them 
perfectly. 

Our  first  night  at  camping  out  was  one  of  some  excite- 
ment. We  had  been  refused  permission  at  Si-mo-da  to 
do  the  very  thing  in  which  the  launch  was  then  engaged, 
and,  from  a  most  unpleasant  custom  of  the  Japanese, — i.e. 
the  seizure  and  binding  of  strangers,  and  their  removal 
to  Yeddo, —  we  entertained  reasonable  fears  of  at  least 
being  disturbed  in  our  slumbers.  In  order  therefore  to 
avoid  as  much  as  possible  all  communication  with  the 
natives,  our  tent  was  pitched  at  least  three  miles  from 
any  visible  habitation.  A  large  fire  was  soon  kindled 
with  drift-wood,  supper  cooked  and  dispatched,  and  a 
ci-devant  tailor  (armed  to  the  teeth)  placed  upon  post- 


WE    RECEIVE   A   NOCTURNAL    VISIT.  285 

with  orders  to  call  the  purser  and  myself  in  case  of  any 
arrivals.  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  "  mari- 
nized  seamster"  went  immediately  to  sleep;  for,  after  we 
had  vainly  devoted  hours  to  the  same  end,  we  suddenly 
heard  voices  at  a  distance,  and,  upon  leaving  the  tent, 
found  him  seated  after  the  fashion  of  his  craft,  and  un- 
able to  answer. 

Upon  reaching  the  elevation  of  the  bank,  and  looking 
in  the  direction  from  which  the  voices  came,  a  beautiful 
sight  presented  itself  to  our  eyes :  no  less  than  forty  or 
fifty  Japanese,  each  bearing  one  of  their  fancifully-painted 
lanterns,  were  moving  toward  us  at  a  rapid  pace.  They 
did  not  seem  to  fear  detection ;  but,  in  order  to  "  provide 
against  all  precautions,"  we  got  under  arms,  six  of  us 
being  at  the  boat  and  eight  at  the  tent. 

As  they  continued  their  approach,  they  talked  in  very 
loud  tones,  (to  give  each  other  courage,  one  of  the  men 
remarked ;)  but,  as  soon  as  they  saw  us  awake  and  pre- 
pared, a  halt  took  place,  and  one  of  the  party  advanced 
alone.  Upon  being  met  by  me  without  any  blood  flow- 
ing, he  was  followed  by  others  of  his  company,  and,  the 
purser  now  joining  with  bust-proof  and  the  tent-guard, 
we  were  soon  engaged  deeply  in  the  mysteries  of  pan- 
tomime. 

It  would  be  tedious  to  explain  the  numerous  signs 
which  the  constant  necessity  of  driving  from  their  coasts 
strangers  with  whom  they  cannot  exchange  a  word  has 
placed  at  the  disposal  of  these  people :  it  will  be  enough 
to  say  that  in  the  present  case,  assisted  by  the  few  words 
of  their  language  picked  up  at  Si-mo-da  and  Ha-ko-da-di, 
we  made  ourselves  very  fairly  understood.     And  the  fol- 


286  THEY  ORDER    US   TO   SAIL  AWAY. 

lowing  is  the  result  of  a  half-hour's  pantomime,  sprinkled 
over  with  some  twenty  words. 

Japanese,  (with  a  look  of  command.) — "Put  up  your 
tent,  put  every  thing  into  your  boat,  and  sail  away." 

American. — "  We  are  going  to  sleep  here  to-night  and 
sail  away  in  the  morning." 

Japanese,  (look  of  command  changing  to  one  of  affected 
terror.) — "  You  can't  sleep  here  to-night :  if  you  do  my 
head  will  be  cut  off  by  the  governor." 

American. — "  Oh,  no !  we  have  been  to  Si-mo-da  and 
Ha-ko-da-di,  and  know  that  it  is  only  one  of  your  strata- 
gems to  get  strangers  away  without  resorting  to  force." 

Japanese,  (with  a  most  funeral-like  expression  of 
countenance.) — "  It  is  true :  we  never  joke  :  I  must  lose 
my  head." 

American. — "I  am  very  sorry:  we  will  all  cry  very 
much.  But,  as  the  wind  is  against  us,  we  will  sleep  here 
to-night,  and  sail  away  to-morrow  if  the  fog  clears  away. 
K  the  fog  remains,  we  remain." 

Japanese. — "How  many  of  you  are  there?" 

American. — "Fourteen  men,  fourteen  rifles,  and  four- 
teen revolvers." 

Japanese,  (with  great  vivacity  of  manner.) — "All  right. 
You  are  going  in  the  morning.  Don't  go  back  into  the 
country.  Go  to  sleep.  "We'll  be  back  early.  Good- 
night." 

And,  thus  saying,  the  party  retraced  their  steps,  talking 
in  a  very  lively  manner,  very  unlike  men  upon  the  brink 
of  decapitation.  Just  as  they  were  moving  off,  the 
purser  heard  a  noise  on  the  bank  above,  and,  climbing  up 
with  "bust-proof  through  the  rank  grass,  reached  the 


THEY    OBJECT    TO    MATINAL   BATHING.  287 

summit  just  in  time  to  see  some  forty  or  fifty  others 
scampering  away  among  the  hushes.  They  had  surrounded 
us  without  our  being  aware  of  it,  although  the  "  marinized 
seamster"  did  hold  out  that,  if  there  was  any  direction  in 
which  he  had  watched,  thai  was  it. 

True  to  their  promise,  they  did  return  the  next  morn- 
ing, and  at  a  most  fortunate  moment.  The  day  was  just 
breaking ;  it  had  come  on  to  blow  since  midnight ;  the 
launch  was  gradually  dragging  in  the  heavy  surf,  and  we 
had  either  to  haul  her  up  on  the  beach  or  put  out  into 
the  bay.  As  it  was  still  very  foggy,  the  former  was 
determined  upon,  in  spite  of  the  danger  attending  it,  and 
they  arrived  just  in  time  to  assist  us.  They  found  twelve 
of  us  up  to  the  neck  in  the  surf,  while  the  remaining  two 
guarded  the  arms;  and,  though  the  most  violent  panto- 
mime failed  to  induce  them  to  take  to  the  water,  while 
assisting  us  to  haul,  they  nevertheless  did  good  service  at 
the  end  of  the  boat's  painter.  They  seemed  perfectly 
reconciled  to  our  stay,  and  the  head-officer  laughed 
heartily  when  asked  as  to  the  method  he  had  adopted 
in  rejoining  his  head  to  the  trunk. 

They  partook  sparingly  of  our  breakfast,  evinced  the 
usual  curiosit}'  in  regard  to  every  thing  in  our  possession, 
understood  with  apparent  pleasure  that  we  were  making 
charts  of  their  islands,  praised  the  accuracy  of  the  sketches 
which  the  yeoman  of  the  ship  (who  accompanied  us)  had 
made,  and  finally  begged  that  we  would  fire  one  of  the 
rifles  at  a  mark. 

Fortunately,  one  of  the  boat's  crew  was  a  really  fine 
marksman,  and  there  was  no  objection  to  gratifying  their 
curiosity ;'  so,  a  piece  of  drift-wood  being  put  up  some 


liOO  THE   JAPANESE    IDEA   OF   AMERICA. 

hundred  yards  down  the  beach,  he  put  a  ball  very  near 
the  centre  with  "the  utmost  non-she-lan-cy." 

This  shot  caused  them  the  greatest  wonder  at  first,  but 
was  shortly  attributed  to  chance,  and  it  required  a  repeti- 
tion of  the  exploit  to  convince  them  of  its  commonplace 
nature. 

They  remained  with  us  some  time,  making  signs  upon 
various  subjects;  and  I  was  surprised  to  observe  the 
amount  of  knowledge  possessed  by  this  evidently-infe- 
rior class  of  ofiicers  in  regard  to  European  affairs,  or 
rather  in  regard  to  the  affairs  of  the  world  outside  of 
Japan. 

They  were  not  only  aware  of  the  existing  war,  but  had 
a  very  fair  idea  of  the  causes  which  led  to  it.  They  said 
that  Russia  was  very  large  and  France  and  England  very 
small,  and  asked  "why  America  didn't  join  one  side  or 
the  other  and  put  an  end  to  it  at  once." 

They  have  an  idea  that  the  whole  Western  Continent 
belongs  to  the  United  States,  and  that  we  are  more  power- 
ful than  any  other  two  nations  put  together :  of  course 
we  did  not  undeceive  them  in  this  respect.  They  were 
fully  aware  of  the  railroad  then  in  progress  across  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama,  knew  that  the  discovery  of  gold  in 
California  was  a  late  affair,  and,  in  short,  asked  so  many 
unexpected  questions,  that  one  was  forced  to  the  conclu- 
sion of  their  being  in  more  frequent  communication  with 
the  outer  world  than  is  generally  supposed. 

In  reply  to  their  question  as  to  America  joining  in  the 
war,  I  told  them  it  was  peace  and  commerce  which  had 
made  us  so  powerful,  and  that  it  was  our  policy  to  be 
friendly  with  all  nations  as  long  as  they  acted  fairly  by 


WE  LOOK  WISE  AND  SHKUG  OUR  SHOULDERS.    280 

US ;  that,  when  they  abused  our  citizens  or  violated  trea- 
ties, then  we  declared  war.  This  allusion  to  breaking 
treaties  seemed  to  give  them  some  uneasiness.  They 
asked  if  Mpon  (in  speaking  of  Japan  or  the  Japanese 
Government  they  always  use  the  word  !N"ipon)  had  yet 
broken  the  treaty  made  with  Commodore  Perry,  and, 
upon  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  cast  their  eyes 
upon  the  ground  and  looked  hypocritically  sad.  They 
next  supposed  that,  as  Nipon  had  broken  the  treaty, 
America  would  fight  Nipon  as  soon  as  the  ships  could 
come  out.  This  was  a  difficult  question  to  answer:  we 
could  find  neither  words  nor  signs  to  express  ourselves, 
and  therefore  looked  very  grave  and  shrugged  our  shoul- 
ders with  evident  effect. 

I  now  in  turn  began  to  question  the  headman.  I 
asked  him  why  he  had  caused  us  to  be  surrounded  the 
previous  night,  knowing  as  he  must  that  America  and 
ISiipon  were  friends ;  and  his  answer  was  characteristic 
of  their  well-known  policy.  They  who  we  thought  had 
surrounded  us  were  poor  country-people,  the  scum  of  the 
earth,  persons  to  be  spit  upon  by  such  as  us,  (he  and  my- 
self,) &c.  &c.,  and  that  they  had  come  of  their  own  accord 
simply  to  see  what  w^as  going  on. 

His  manner,  however,  contradicted  this  explanation ; 
and,  upon  my  accusing  him  and  Nipon  in  general  of  in- 
sincerity in  most  of  their  dealings  with  us,  he  laughed 
cunningly,  as  if  it  were  a  fine  trait  we  w^ere  discovering 
in  their  character,  and  returned  to  the  subject  of  our 
"going  away." 

This  pertinacity  annoyed  me  almost  to  the  kicking- 

pitch,  but  I  contented  myself  with  informing  him  that 

19 


290  MR.  JNO.  J.  AND    A    FROWNING    OFFICIAL. 

we  should  leave  when  we  were  ready,  and  not  before ; 
and  that  as  for  persons  prowling  around  a  tent  at  night, 
Americans  often  mistook  them  for  wild  beasts  and  fired 
their  guns  accordingly.  This  information,  or  rather  the 
manner  in  w^hich  we  were  forced  from  lack  of  words  to 
impart  it,  (to  wit,  pointing  the  gun  at  his  breast,  and 
then  advancing  rapidly  till  it  came  in  pretty  sharp  contact 
with  his  fifth  rib,)  threw  the  headman  into  a  state  of 
indignant  reserve,  which  proved  even  cherry-brandy- 
proof  for  as  much  as  five  minutes, — i.e.  until  the  bottle 
began  to  look  empty. 

In  this  manner  the  morning  passed  along  drowsily 
enough,  only  one  thing  occurring  worthy  of  note.  This 
was  the  passing  by  of  some  high  mandarin  and  retinue, 
who  were  transporting  an  extensive  lot  of  matchlocks  in 
the  direction  of  Ha-ko-da-di.  To  this  "big  bug"  the 
Japanese  in  our  vicinity  went  on  their  knees  while  giving 
what  we  supposed  to  be  a  history  of  our  arrival,  deten- 
tion, &c. ;  and  the  "big  bug"  himself,  after  hearing  said 
history,  frowned  loweringly  upon  our  party,  much  to  the 
indignation  of  Mr.  John  J.,  who  gave  vent  to  his  feelings 
through  various  contortions  of  the  body  and  countenance, 
accompanied  by  a  well-known  sign,  supposed  to  be  of 
Masonic  origin,  and  addressed  (behind  my  back)  to  the 
angry  official.  It  was  singular  to  see  a  dozen  grown-up 
men  on  their  knees  before  a  stupid-looking  official,  while 
a  stranger  boy,  almost  a  child  in  years,  was  indulging  in 
the  most  ridiculous  pantomime  at  his  expense. 

This  party  consisted  of  some  fifty  men,  and  probably 
of  as  many  horses,  many  of  the  former  carrying  lacquered 
poles  with  gilded  heads,  to  which  were  attached  streamers 


JAPANESE     OFFICIAL     COMMUNICATING     WITH     A     SUPERIOR. 


A  WORD  ABOUT  THE  ARMY  OF  JAPAN.       291 

of  different  colours  and  shapes;  while  some  of  the  horses 
carried  the  more  important  personages  of  the  party,  and 
the  remainder  burdens  of  matchlocks  secured  on  each 
side  in  the  shape  of  packs.  And  here  I  will  remark 
upon  the  great  number  of  horses  which  exist  upon  this 
island.  Almost  every  village  has  several  droves,  some  of 
which  are  used  under  the  saddle  by  officers  and  couriers, 
but  the  greater  number  in  the  transportation  of  dried 
fish,  &c.  In  height  they  average  only  from  fourteen  to 
fifteen  hands,  but  are  compactly  built,  and  most  mule- 
like in  their  powers  of  endurance.  You  see  them  travel- 
ling along  the  beach  under  their  packs,  in  single  file,  and 
with  the  bridle  of  one  fast  to  the  saddle  of  another.  In 
this  manner  one  or  two  men  easily  drive  any  number. 
They  are  shod  and  unshod  as  the  nature  of  the  road 
demands, — not  with  iron  shoes,  but  with  a  socket  of 
platted  grass,  which,  singular  to  say,  lasts  several  days. 

I  embraced  the  opportunity  presented  by  this  somewhat 
military  display,  to  make  the  best  inquiries  I  could  as  to 
the  army  of  Japan,  and,  from  what  I  learned,  combined 
with  like  information  received  from  Tatz-nosky,  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  they  had  no  army  at  all.  The  feudal 
system  of  Middle-Age  Europe  prevails  here  with  a 
healthy  if  not  an  increasing  vitality,  and  in  the  existence 
of  this  system  is  found  their  much-talked-of  army.  The 
Government,  for  instance,  has  a  fort  to  be  taken  or  de- 
fended. The  work  is  given  to  some  particular  prince  or 
nobleman,  who,  with  his  peasantr}', — or,  more  properly 
speaking,  his  slaves, — proceeds  to  obey  his  orders.  If  his 
force  prov^  insufficient,  a  second  high  officer  is  ordered 
to  join  the  undertaking;  and  so  on.     And  in  this  lies  the 


292  A   TERRIBLE   DISAPPOINTMENT. 

secret  of  tlieir  army  of  two  millions,  against  which  so 
many  timid  people  in  the  United  States  were  afraid  to 
send  so  small  a  squadron  as  Perry's.  I  sincerely  believe 
that  Commodore  Perry,  with  the  force  he  then  had  at  his 
command,  could  have  waged  a  successful  war  against  the 
whole  empire  of  Japan. 

At  2  P.M.,  the  weather  moderating  and  the  fog  lifting, 
we  struck  every  thing  in  haste,  and  proceeded  on  for 
West  Point.  Just  before  shoving  off,  however,  we  re- 
ceived a  present  from  the  "headman,"  in  the  shape  of 
two  ordinary  chicken-cocks,  which  caused  us  to  rub  our 
hands  as  the  hour  for  supper  crossed  our  minds.  I  don't 
know  what  we  should  have  done,  in  lieu  of  rubbing  our 
hands,  had  we  known  to  what  respect  their  extreme  age 
and  toughness  entitled  them :  they  proved  impenetrable 
to  even  our  scurvy-threatened  teeth. 

This  is  one  of  the  many  rewards  attendant  upon  a 
cruise  of  that  nature.  We  were  forced  to  live  upon  salt 
beef,  ditto  pork,  and  insipid  preserved  meats,  for  (in  this 
case)  eight  months,  with  forty  gallons  of  lime-juice  on 
hand  to  retard  the  arrival  of  the  scurvy.  But  to  return 
to  more  pleasant  subjects. 

Three  or  four  hours  carried  us  into  a  small  cove  in  the 
vicinity  of  West  Point,  partially  sheltered  from  the  surf 
by  sunken  and  other  rocks,  in  which  we  dropped  anchor, 
pitched  tent,  and  made  other  preparations  for  passing  the 
night.  It  was  here  that  we  discovered  the  great  anti- 
quity of  our  presents;  and,  a  new  set  of  the  ever- watchful 
Japanese  coming  on  us  about  this  time,  and  signing  us  to 
shoot  some  ducks,  we  readily  complied  with  Idaeir  intima- 
tion, producing  them  a  momentary  gratification  and  our- 


MORE   AMERICANS    IN   TROUBLE.  293 

selves  a  fiue  supper.  The  next  day  we  were  picked  up 
by  the  elongated  anchor-hoy  commonly  known  as  the 
"old  John,"  and  the  day  following  saw  the  conclusion 
of  the  survey  of  the  Straits  of  T' Sugar. 

As  I  remarked  in  the  last  chapter,  we  found  three 
foreign  vessels  at  anchor  among  the  Japanese  junks. 
These  were  the  Hamburg  brig  Greta,  which  we  had 
chartered  at  Hong-Kong  to  bring  us  a  supply  of  coal  and 
provisions,  the  English  surveying-schooner  Saracen,  who 
was  engaged  on  work  similar  to  ours,  and  the  American 
whaling-brig  Leveret,  which  had  arrived  some  days  pre- 
vious, on  the  strength  of  Commodore  Perry's  treaty,  to 
land  her  cargo  and  its  owners  and  then  continue  on  her 
whaling-voyage.  The  supercargo  of  the  Greta,  who  was 
a  very  agreeable  companion,  in  spite  of  his  fondness  for 
exploring  caves,  (?)  showed  us  a  list  of  liquors,  cigars, 
&c.,  from  which  we  could  supply  our  mess  for  months 
at  an  advance  of  fifty  per  cent,  over  Hong-Kong  prices. 
But  when  it  came  to  provisions  we  were  woefully  disap- 
pointed. There  was  nothing  in  that  line  save  the  regular 
Government-ration ;  and  some  of  the  mess  sighed  heavily 
as  they  looked  forward  to  eating  salt  pork  and  beef  for 
the  next  several  months  and  probably  arriving  at  San 
Francisco  half  disabled  from  the  scurvy. 

We  found  the  passengers  by  the  Leveret  in  as  much 
trouble  with  the  authorities  about  setting  up  a  ship- 
chandlery  on  shore  as  the  nomadics  had  been  in  at 
Si-mo-da;  and  Commander  Rodgers  was  now  boarded  by 
both  parties,  praying  that  he  would  see  the  governor  and 
insist  upo^;^  the  treaty  being  respected.  The  result  of 
this  was  a  forcible  appeal  on  our  part  in  their  behalf;  but 


294  HOW   TUEY   COMPLY   WITH   THE   TREATY. 

it  was  unsuccessful,  and  both  vessels  soon  sailed  in  dis- 
gust, the  Leveret  on  her  whaling-voyage,  and  the  noma- 
dics  for  San  Francisco. 

And  now  I  will  end  this  chapter  by  showing  how  these 
unfortunates, — men  who  had  been  regularly  swindled,  by 
what  purported  to  be  a  treaty,  into  investing  "their  all" 
in  a  venture  to  Japan, — I  will  show,  I  say,  how  our  Go- 
vernment left  them  in  the  lurch  and  upheld  the  cunning 
interpretation  which  the  Japanese  placed  on  a  phrase  of 
said  treaty. 

Upon  arriving  at  San  Francisco  and  applying  at  Wash- 
ington for  indemnification  for  the  losses  they  had  sus- 
tained through  the  palpable  treachery  of  the  Japanese, 
they  were  informed  that  the  phrase  "temporary  resi- 
dence" did  not  mean  temporary  residence;  that  they  had 
nothing  to  complain  of;  that  the  phrase  meant,  as  the 
Japanese  said,  "a  day's  walk  into  the  country,"  or  "a 
few  days  on  shore,"  or  something  equally  absurd.  I 
wonder  when  any  more  Americans  will  risk  their  capital 
upon  this  treaty,  which  cost  us  several  millions  ? 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

WE  PASS  BEFORE  THE  GREAT  CITY  OF  MATSMAI,  TO  THE  WONDER  OF  THE 
JAPANESE,  CONTINUE  TO  THE  NORTHWARD  ALONG  THE  WEST  COAST  OF 
THE  ISLAND  OF  JESSO,  BEAT  A  JAPANESE  OFFICER  ON  THE  HEAD,  AND 
FINALLY    ARRIVE    AT    THE     TOWN    OF    TOMARI,    WHERE   WE     HAVE   A   GOOD 

LOOK   AT     THE    AINU,    OR     "HAIRY    KURILES" THE    LAST    OF    JAPAN    AND 

THE    COMMENCEMENT     OF    A   HEAVY    FOG. 

It  was  on  the  1st  of  July  tliat  we  ended  the  survey 
spoken  of  in  the  last  chapter,  after  which  we  continued 
along  the  west  coast  and  anchored  that  night  off  the 
great  city  of  Matsmai.  There  we  found  only  an  open 
roadstead,  and  we  did  not  approach  near  enough  to  take 
interest  in  the  appearance  of  either  land  or  city. 

The  running  survey  upon  which  we  were  engaged  was 
in  itself  a  probable  violation  of  the  treaty,  and  the  cap- 
tain was  naturally  averse  to  any  further  infringement  of 
it  in  the  shape  of  going  on  shore,  except  for  the  pui-poses 
of  wooding  ship  or  obtaining  astronomical  observations 
necessar}?-  to  our  work.  He  therefore,  expecting  some  of 
us  to  make  a  terrestrial  demonstration,  and  disliking  to 
refuse  the  necessary  permission,  anchored  several  miles 
off,  evidently  to  discourage  all  shore-going  parties ;  and 
this  must  account  for  my  passing  Matsmai  with  only  a 
few  words.  The  same  inconvenient  though  doubtless 
proper  restriction,  being  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  con- 
tinued up  the  whole  coast,  deprived  us  of  man}^  oppor- 
tunities of  observation  and  relaxation,  which,  joined  to 

295 


206  THE  GREAT  CITY  OF  MATSMAI. 

the  unavoidable  drawbacks  attendant  upon  all  cruises  of 
this  nature,  made  us  long  more  and  more  for  San  Fran- 
cisco and  a  month's  respite.  We  had  seen  enough  of 
"Japan  and  the  Japanese." 

The  next  morning  at  an  early  hour  we  had  hove  up  our 
anchor,  and  were  again  under  steam,  standing  in  for  the 
land,  intending  to  skirt  the  face  of  the  city  as  close  as 
the  depth  of  water  would  permit. 

Matsmai,  from  all  that  we  could  see  of  it  while  thus 
passing,  is  a  city  of  considerable  extent  and  imposing 
appearance.  Situated  in  lat.  41°  25'  N.  and  long.  140° 
02'  E.  of  Greenwich,  its  inhabitants  enjoy  a  temperate 
climate  and  that  greatest  of  luxuries, — an  abundant  supply 
of  pure  and  cool  water.  This  water,  as  it  flows  from  the 
springs  w^hich  the  purser  and  myself  found  around  the 
base  of  every  hill,  is  actually  too  cold  to  drink  in  any 
quantity.  Ice,  though  covering  the  summits  of  the  moun- 
tains, which  lift  their  whitened  crests  over  the  inland  por- 
tion of  the  city,  has  no  charms  for  the  people  of  Matsmai. 

Situated  under  the  west  point  of  the  roadstead,  and 
extending  along  the  beach  some  two  miles  to  the  east- 
ward,— having  its  feet  washed  by  the  surf,  and  retreating 
some  half-mile  back  among  the  hills, — the  elevated  por- 
tions of  the  city  rising  from  gentle  undulations  or  from 
the  summits  of  sloping  hills  studded  invariably  with 
fresh  and  green-looking  trees, — Matsmai  presents  a  most 
pleasant  scene  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon.  It  is  upon  these 
hills  and  undulations,  surrounded  by  regularly  laid-out 
grounds,  groves  of  shade-trees,  and  apparently-beautiful 
gardens,  that  the  Government-buildings  and  residences 
of  the  higher  class  appear  to  be  located.     There  was  one 


THE   "OLD  JOHN"  AGAIN  ASTONISHES   THE   NATIVES.  297 

large  pagoda-like  structure  in  particular,  which,  with  its 
grounds,  seemed  to  occupy  the  whole  of  the  highest  hill, 
and  which,  from  its  imposing  elevation,  would  make — pro- 
bably does  make — an  admirable  signal-station.  Perched 
upon  its  very  summit,  the  greensward,  sprinkled  here  and 
there  with  shady  groves,  extended  from  it  in  every  direc- 
tion until  a  white  paling-fence,  (it  looked  strange  at  first 
to  see  our  well-known  paling  ivhUcwashcd  fence  in  Japan,) 
forming  a  circle  of  probably  a  mile  in  circumference 
around  the  base  of  the  hill,  seemed  to  bar  its  farther 
extent. 

In  addition  to  this,  I  counted  no  less  than  four  large 
temples  or  josh-houses,  each  having  its  grounds  and 
groves,  its  greater  or  less  elevation,  and  its  neat  paling- 
fence.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot  to  look  at;  and,  in  spite  of 
my  experience  at  Si-mo-da  and  Ha-ko-da-di,  I  could  not 
avoid  thinking  that  it  would  bear  a  closer  inspection  as 
far  as  cleanliness  was  concerned.  We  passed  along 
before  Matsmai  under  low  steam,  carrying  safe  water 
well  in  with  the  beach,  and  watching  through  our  glasses 
the  excited  natives  who  crowded  the  water's  edge  to  see 
"  the  large  junk  that  sailed  with  her  sails  furled."  Like 
the  Chinamen  on  the  Wan-chow  Kiver,  it  was  "  a  huckle- 
berry above  their  persimmon." 

Leaving  the  master,  with  an  armed  boat  and  his  astro- 
nomical instruments,  at  the  point  making  out  from  the 
west  end  of  the  city,  the  ship  herself  devoted  the  rest  of 
the  day  (plus  four  hours  of  the  night)  to  the  examination 
of  two  islands  on  the  southern  horizon,  and,  after  return- 
ing for  the  boat,  continued  on  to  the  northward  with  the 
first  gleam  of  day.     It  was  this  kind  of  service  which 


298  THE   REMAINS    OF   A    "LATE    BREAKFAST.' 

tried  the  powers  of  both  meu  aud  officers, — working  from 
daylight  until  dark  on  those  long  days,  aud  then  often 
devoting  half  of  the  night  to  finding  a  safe  anchorage  at 
which  to  sleep  through  the  remaining  darkness.  Many 
persons  who  read  these  lines  by  a  comfortable  fire  may 
possibly  think  that  they  would  enjoy  the  excitement  and 
novelty  of  an  "exploring  cruise  around  the  world:"  I 
can  only  say  that  I  thought  so  once  myself. 

On  the  6th  inst.  we  found  ourselves  near  a  prominent 
point,  and,  the  weather  being  favourable,  the  master 
landed  again  with  his  instruments.  There  being  a  hilly, 
well-wooded  country  coming  down  to  the  very  beach, 
the  assistant  botanist  was  ordered  to  strap  up  his  port- 
folio and  land  also.  This  point  was  the  southwest  ex- 
tremity of  a  passably-fair  bay  in  which  we  found  anchorage 
for  the  night.  Besides  his  various  vegetable  discoveries, 
the  assistant  botanist  made  several  in  the  animal  line. 
He  chased,  unsuccessfully,  several  hare,  (such  as  are 
found  in  Lower  California,)  gave  a  wide  berth  to  several 
savage-looking  natives,  and  finally  fell  in  with  a  gray 
wolf  making  a  late  breakfast  from  a  slothful  hare.  This 
fashionable  repast  he  interrupted  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  a  well-directed  stone,  and  secured  what  was 
left  (one  hind-leg)  for  preservation  in  spirits  of  wine. 

As  I  have  already  remarked,  we  anclipred  in  that  bay 
for  the  night,  and  there  the  miserable  policy  of  the 
Japanese  was  more  glaringly  demonstrated  than  ever. 

Two  bateaux,  paddled  each  by  two  of  the  lower  class 
of  Japanese,  {the  peojile,)  came  alongside  after  much  per- 
suasion, with  great  trembling  and  evident  fear,  and, 
mistaking  our  signs  of  welcome  for  applications  for  a 


BRUTALITY   OF   JAPANESE    OFFICIALS.  299 

few  clams  in  the  bottoms  of  their  boats,  readily  passed 
them  on  board,  accepted  a  few  trifling  articles  in  return, 
and  were  becoming  quite  lively  and  pleasant,  when  a  third 
bateau,  paddled  also  by  two  men,  came  rapidly  within 
hail.  The  after-paddler  of  this  third  bateau,  calling  to 
them  in  a  threatening  and  brutal  tone,  beckoned  them 
off  from  the  ship  with  the  most  violent  gestures,  and,  not 
content  with  thus  driving  them  away,  confiscated  their 
paddles,  with  which  he  beat  them  severely  over  the  head, 
made  their  boats  fast  to  his,  and  thus  towed  them  in- 
shore, where  a  severe  bambooing  probably  awaited  them. 
I  had  the  satisfaction,  ten  minutes  later,  of  using  a  boat- 
hook  in  conjunction  with  the  shaven  head  of  one  of 
that  fellow's  brother-officers,  who,  while  I  was  sounding 
around  the  ship  in  obedience  to  orders,  had  the  impu- 
dence to  leave  his  "ten-scull"  boat  to  be  sculled  alongside 
of  our  cockle-shell  of  a  dingy  so  as  to  render  oars  per- 
fectly useless.  His  object  was  to  prevent  our  going  any 
nearer  the  shore;  and,  after  motioning  him  out  of  the 
way  several  times  without  success,  I  resorted  to  the  boat- 
hook  application  with  most  satisfactory  results.  These 
people  propel  their  bateaux  (most  Japanese  boats  merit 
the  appellation  of  bateau  rather  than  boat)  with  from  one 
to  twenty  sculls ;  and  it  is  astonishing  with  what  skill  they 
will  manage  them.  They  progress  either  ahead,  astern, 
sideways,  or  diagonally,  as  circumstances  may  call  for ; 
and,  if  they  wish  to  prevent  a  strange  boat  from  proceed- 
ing in  a  certain  direction,  all  they  have  to  do  is  once  to  get 
alone/side,  and  the  progress  of  that  boat  is  at  an  end  until 
a  boat-hook  or  something  of  that  sort  is  called  into  requi- 
sition.    But  to  leave  generalities.     After  receiving  one 


300  THEIR  UNDOUBTED  COWARDICE. 

blow  they  got  out  of  the  way  even  faster  than  they  had 
got  into  it,  and  proceeded  toward  the  ship  with  a  caution 
that  indicated  the  fear  of  there  meeting  a  similar  recep- 
tion. 

There  were  five  mandarins  in  this  boat,  each  armed 
with  two  swords,  w^hen  I  raised  the  boat-hook;  and,  in- 
stead of  ofibring  to  draw  them,  they  tumbled  one  over  the 
other  out  of  reach  of  it  in  a  most  ?«imandarin-like  style, 
and  did  not  resume  their  stupid  haughtiness  of  manner 
until  clear  of  all  possible  contact.  I  don't  know  that  I 
should  have  been  half  so  determined  had  previous  expe- 
rience not  stamped  their  class  as  the  most  arrant  cowards : 
as  it  was,  I  returned  on  board  and  blew  my  trumpet  as  a 
man  of  great  readiness  of  action. 

At  this  place  we  saw,  for  the  third  time,  the  Ainu,  or 
"hairy  Kurile."  The  first  specimen  was  seen  at  Ha-ko- 
da-di,  where  he  had  drifted  as  one  of  the  crew  of  a  coast- 
ing-junk; the  second  lot  received  a  "wide  berth"  from 
the  assistant  botanist;  and  now  they  were  becoming  quite 
plentiful.  I  will,  however,  defer  their  description  until 
we  come  to  a  place  under  the  northeast  point  of  this 
island,  where  we  remained  a  day  taking  in  wood  from 
their  boats,  and  where  they  literally  crowded  our  decks 
during  that  occupation. 

Leaving  our  anchorage,  after  having  bought  some  four 
cords  of  wood  for  as  many  yards  of  broadcloth,  we  con- 
tinued along  the  coast  toward  Strogonoff  Bay.  It  had 
been  the  custom  of  those  people  from  time  immemorial 
to  hurry  off'  all  ships  anchoring  in  their  waters  by  giving 
them  wood,  water,  and  a  few  provisions,  gratis,  and  then 
telling  them  to  go  to  sea  at  once  or  entail   upon   the 


now   THEY   FORCED    BUNSBY   ON    HIS    KNEES.  301 

"headman"  the  unpleasant  necessity  of  having  his  throat 
cut.  And  this  was  exactly  the  manner  in  which  they  now 
acted  to  us,  even  though  the  treaty  says  that  "payment 
shall  be  made  in  gold  and  silver."  After  we  had  received 
the  wood  they  positively  refused  to  receive  any  thing  in 
return,  and  the  cloth  was  only  accepted  because  we  would 
not  bring  it  on  board  again. 

It  was  most  amusing  to  see  how  quietly  they  permitted 
us  to  walk  through  the  town  on  the  following  morning 
after  having  tried  to  prevent  our  even  sounding  in  the 
bay  during  the  previous  evening:  my  impression  is  that 
a  firm  bearing,  backed  by  even  a  small  force,  is  all  that  is 
required  to  cause  these  officers  (not  the  people)  to  behave 
with  respect  and  consideration  to  any  stranger. 

Our  ci-devant  whaler,  "Bunsby,"  told  us  that  a  few  years 
back  he  cruised  in  these  latitudes,  and  that,  upon  landing 
at  Matsmai  for  supplies,  the  whole  boat's  crew  were  forced 
down  upon  their  knees  before  a  stupid-looking  dignitary, 
and  retained  in  that  position  until  the  withdrawal  of  the 
great  man  set  them  at  liberty.  "With  us,  however,  the 
case  was  widely  difierent.  "When  we  landed  at  this  last 
place,  a  dense  crowd  of  Kuriles  and  the  lower  class 
of  Japanese  pressed  from  all  quarters  to  see  us,  and  were 
driven  away  (evidently  to  show  us  respect)  with  brutal 
blows  and  violent  language.  One  fellow  in  particular 
dealt  his  blows  around  with  such  utter  disregard  to  the 
safety  of  heads  and  limbs,  that  many  of  the  shrinking 
crowd  either  jumped  or  were  pressed  off  the  mole ;  and 
I  noticed  one  little  girl  who  was  thus  injured  so  as  to  re- 
quire being  helped  out  of  the  water.  But  to  go  on  with 
my  narrative. 


302  WE    RECEIVE   A   NOCTURNAL   VISIT. 

Running  along  the  shore  during  the  day,  we,  as  usual, 
anchored  at  night  near  a  small  town,  and  about  9  p.m. 
were  boarded  by  a  bateau  sculled  by  two  Japanese,  one 
of  whom  seemed,  from  his  dress,  to  belong  to  the  class  of 
officers.  He  wore  no  sword,  however ;  and  it  may  here  be 
worthy  of  remark  that  since  leaving  Matsmai,  up  to  the 
present  time,  we  have  stopped  at  no  village  (the  one  of  the 
boat-hook  exploit  excepted)  where  were  persons  residing 
entitled  to  wear  two  swords. 

Well,  this  nocturnal  arrival  came  over  the  side  in  an 
easy,  lounging  style  that  was  quite  new  in  a  Japanese, 
and,  the  captain  being  on  deck,  several  of  us  accompanied 
him  into  the  cabin  with  the  new-comer.  He  displayed 
some  uneasiness  when  the  door  was  closed,  but  regained 
his  off-hand  manner  as  soon  as  he  saw  a  decanter  and 
glasses  join  the  party.  The  first  thing  he  did  was  to  take 
from  his  capacious  garment  a  bundle  of  lacquered  cups  and 
saucers,  which  he  presented  to  the  captain,  at  the  same 
time  pointing  to  the  decanter  and  glasses  and  intimating 
his  desire  to  be  presented  with  one  in  return.  At  this  we 
all  laughed  heartily :  the  fellow  had  evidently  boarded 
vessels  with  a  like  object  before.  Seeing  us  laugh,  he 
looked  a  little  annoyed,  and  gave  us  to  understand  that  "it 
Avas  only  at  night  that  speculating  visits  were  permitted 
in  Nipon."  I  can't  imagine  what  he  thought  we  laughed 
at.  The  conduct  of  this  man  gave  us  a  good  opportunity 
for  remarking  a  most  unfavourable  peculiarity  of  this 
undoubtedly  deceitful  and  treacherous  people.  While 
we  were  laughing  at  his  expressive  pantomime  toward 
the  glassware,  his  companion  came  down,  and,  crouch 
ing  on  the  deck,  looked  anxiously  in  the  same  direction. 


HOW  THEY  ACCEPT   PRESENTS.  303 

They  were  both  longing  to  be  presented  with  a  glass ;  but, 
when  one  Avas  held  out  to  each,  both  shrank  back  in  well- 
feigned  alarm,  and,  holding  up  the  right  thumb,  gave 
us  to  understand  that  to  accept  was  as  much  as  their 
heads  were  worth;  and  yet  in  less  than  ten  seconds  after 
this  they  both  had  their  glasses  stowed  away  under  their 
garments.  This  they  accomplished  by  concealing  them, 
in  apparently  a  hurried  ma,nner,  while  their  heads  were 
alternately  turned  away ;  and  that  this  turning  away  of 
the  head  was  "iN'ipon  custom"  there  is  no  doubt:  in  fact, 
they  told  us  as  much.  Shortly  after  this  successful  feat 
they  took  their  departure,  but  again  returned  shortly 
after  midnight,  and  yet  again  upon  the  following  morn- 
ing in  company  with  the  headman  of  the  village.  On 
this  latter  occasion  one  of  the  cruets  disappeared  from 
the  captain's  stand,  though  unfortunately  the  discovery 
was  not  made  until  too  late  to  expose  the  thief.  The  re- 
sult of  this  was  an  order  to  let  no  more  Japanese  boats 
come  alongside  unless  upon  business.  That  was  the  first 
and  only  case  of  theft  that  we  experienced  while  among 
them. 

We  were  surprised  to  find  here  immense  droves  of 
deer  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town  ;  and  the 
doctor  with  his  Kentucky  rifle,  and  the  purser  with 
everlasting  "old  bust-proof,"  went  on  shore  the  morn- 
ing after  our  arrival  to  try  to  bring  some  on  board. 
They  had  seen  some  of  the  skins  stretched  against  the 
sides  of  the  houses,  undergoing  the  process  of  drying ; 
and  the  people  had  made  signs  to  them  that  the  dense 
cane-brake  which  backed  the  town  was  full  of  them, 
and  that  they  were  at  liberty  to  shoot  as  many  as  they 


304  THE   "OLD    JOHN"   IS    COMPLIMENTED. 

desired.  They  therefore  entered  the  brake  in  high 
glee ;  but,  though  they  saw  a  few  here  and  there,  and 
heard  hundreds  of  them  rushing  through  the  canes,  the 
growth  was  so  dense  as  to  render  such  a  thing  as  taking 
aim  impossible.  They  consequently  returned  empty- 
handed  and  in  great  disgust,  to  be  informed  by  Martin, 
the  steward,  that  our  preserved  meats  were  almost  ex- 
pended, and  that,  if  "the  gentlemen"  didn't  shoot  some- 
thing soon,  we  would  be  in  a  starving  condition. 

At  this  place  we  took  in  another  ^ippW  of  wood, 
saving  our  coal  for  the  Okotsk  Sea,  and  here  succeeded 
in  making  payment  in  the  shape  of  tea,  sugar,  rice,  &c. 
Here  we  also  caught  a  fair  supply  of  small  rock-cod, 
which  rendered  the  breakfast-table  so  attractive  as  to 
open  the  state-room  doors  half  an  hour  sooner  than 
usual. 

Continuing  on  to  the  northward  with  a  leading  wind, 
we  passed  the  English  frigate  Winchester  and  brig 
Bittern,  apparently  beating  down  for  Ha-ko-da-di.  As 
usual,  we  were  running  quite  close  in  with  the  land, 
and  they,  ever  on  the  look-out  for  the  absconding 
Eussiaus,  came  well  in  before  the  unmistakable  pro- 
portions of  the  elongated  anchor-hoy  convinced  them 
that  we  were  not  the  Vosgoth  under  American  colours. 

The  southern  corner  of  Strogonoff  Bay  gave  us 
shelter  during  the  following  night,  and  the  next  day, 
taking  advantage  of  a  moderate  southeasterly  gale,  we 
succeeded  in  sighting  Cape  Homanzoff,  the  northwest 
extremity  of  the  island.  AVe  found  this  cape  very 
well  located  on  the  chart;  and,  had  the  weather  been 
clear,  the  eye  might  easil}^  have  crossed  the  Straits  of 


A   DISAGREEABLE    COMBINATION.  305 

La  Perouse  and  rested  upoii  the  soiithorn  shore  of 
Sagalien.  This  latter  island,  which  is  larger  than  Cuba 
and  smaller  than  Nipon,  is  said  to  he  divided  between 
the  Chinese  and  the  Japanese, —  the  latter  holding  the 
southern  half,  while  the  former  claim  the  northern.  Its 
native  population  are  the  Kuriles;  but,  whether  they 
are  entirely  or  partially  subject  to  their  double  mas- 
ters, I  am  unable  to  say.  I  conversed  in  Ha-ko-da-di 
with  an  English  officer  who  had  lately  landed  near  the 
centre  of  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  and  who  spoke 
of  them  as  "wild-looking  fellows,  very  hairy,  clothed 
in  a  coarse  sack,  and  fearful  of  coming  out  of  the  bushes, 
from  which  they  peeped  at  his  party  like  so  many  wild 
cattle." 

As  usual,  Games  was  lauded  at  Cape  Romanzoff  with 
his  instruments ;  and,  while  the  astronomical  observa- 
tions were  going  on,  the  ship  herself  ran  down  to  two 
islands  on  the  western  horizon,  hoping  to  sound  around 
them  both  before  dark.  In  this,  however,  we  were 
woefully  disappointed,  for  the  sun  left  us  before  the  first 
circle  had  been  completed,  and  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  feeling  our  way  back  through  a  combination  of  water, 
fog,  and  darkness.  And  here  it  may  be  well  to  caution 
all  vessels  passing  through  the  Straits  of  La  Perouse  to 
give  Pomanzoff  a  berth  of  at  least  a  mile  and  a  half,  as 
there  is  a  reef  making  out  to  the  north-northwest  from 
that  cape,  whose  length  is  a  mile  or  more,  and  of  which 
no  indication  exists  on  the  chart.  We  anchored  some 
time  after  midnight,  and  the  shivering  master,  upon  his 
return  on  board,  expressed  himself  in  emphatic  language 
against  all  such  nocturnal  excursions. 

20 


306  WHY    JESSO   WAS    CONQUERED. 

The  next  day  we  attempted  to  follow  the  shore  of 
Romanzoff  Bay,  toward  Cape  Soya,  to  the  eastward,  but 
found  so  many  liidden  dangers  in  the  shape  of  reefs  and 
sunken  rocks  that  we  gave  up  the  idea  and  steered 
straight  for  the  town  of  Tomari.  Here  we  anchored 
for  the  night,  and  devoted  the  remainder  of  the  day 
and  part  of  the  next  to  w'ooding  up.  Any  vessel  seek- 
ing shelter  in  this  bay  cannot  be  too  careful  with  look- 
out and  lead.  It  is  the  worst  ground  we  passed  over 
during  that  cruise ;  and  yet  Golownin  speaks  of  it  as  "a 
fine  large  bay,  having  regular  water  and  good  holding- 
ground,"  &c.  Possibly  we  may  have  devoted  too  short 
a  time  to  its  examination,  for  we  found  this  writer 
generally  remarkable  for  closeness  of  observation  and 
accuracy  of  statement. 

The  town  of  Tomari,  situated  in  this  bay  and  im- 
mediately under  Cape  Soya,  the  extreme  north  point 
of  the  island,  is  one  of  the  numerous  fishing-settlements 
of  the  Japanese,  w^hich  line  the  coast  from  Matsmai  up. 
In  fact,  this  latter  city  itself  w^as  settled  centuries  since 
simply  to  establish  a  firm  footing  on  an  island  singularly 
remarkable  for  the  quantities  of  salmon  w^hich  fed  along 
its  shores,  and  which  on  the  more  northern  end  "  were 
often  so  plentiful  as  to  be  dipped  out  with  hand-nets 
and  paddles."  Whenever  you  see  an  indentation  in  the 
coast,  there  you  find  one  or  more  of  these  villages:  I 
don't  think  we  could  have  passed  less  than  several  hun- 
dred of  them.  And  this  great  population  along  the 
sea-shore  certainly  renders  probable  the  assertion  of 
Golownin,  to  the  efiect  that  the  island  of  Jesso  is  with- 
out population  in  the  interior,  the  nature  of  the  country 


WHAT   THE   JAPANESE    EAT.  307 

being  unfavourable  to  cultivation.  And,  from  wliat  we 
ourselves  have  seen  of  the  diet  of  these  people,  the  sea- 
shore must  be  their  most  desirable  location.  I  doubt 
if  two  Japanese  out  of  three  ever  eat  any  article  (rice 
and  sweet  potatoes  excepted)  which  they  do  not  obtain 
from  the  sea.  Fish,  shell-fish,  gelatine,  and  almost 
every  variety  of  sea-weed,  are  regarded  as  wholesome, 
and  some  of  the  latter  are  really  very  palatable.  Almost 
every  one  has,  when  confined  to  a  sick-room,  relished  a 
bowl  of  Irish  or  Ceylon  moss ;  and  much  of  the  Japa- 
nese sea-weed,  when  cooked,  resembles  that  preparation. 
May  not  the  succession  of  villages  along  an  uncultivated 
sea-shore,  as  seen  by  all  vessels  passing  on  their  voyages, 
have  given  rise  to  the  prevalent  idea  of  the  marvellous 
population  of  the  empire  ?  And  does  not  this  succession 
of  mountain  after  mountain,  of  range  rising  above  range, 
indicate  the  existence  in  their  bosoms  of  great  mineral 
wealth  ?  I  am  no  geologist,  and  therefore  am  not  en- 
titled to  an  opinion ;  yet,  from  what  I  saw,  heard,  and 
read  while  in  and  about  Japan,  I  believe  that  gold,  quick- 
silver, and  coal  exist  in  abundance  in  the  mountains  of 
Jesso.     But  to  return  to  the  town  of  Tomari. 

This,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  was  a  fishing-settle- 
ment, and  contained  some  hundred  houses,  with  a  pro- 
bable population  of  from  six  to  eight  hundred :  of  these 
some  fifty  or  more  are  Japanese,  and  the  remainder  the 
native  Kuriles.  Of  these  latter  we  had  seen  several 
hundreds  at  our  various  "wooding-up"  places;  and  now 
I  will  proceed  with  my  necessarily  incomplete  description 
of  their  general  appearance,  habits,  &c. 

Dr.  Pritchard,  in   his   excellent  work    entitled    "  The 


308  THE   AINU,  OR    HAIRY    KURILES. 

Katural  History  of  Man,"  has,  upon  the  authority  of 
various  writers,  the  following  page  in  regard  to  the 
subject: — 

'  The  best  account  of  the  Ainos  that  we  have  yet 
received  is  to  be  found  in  the  narrative  of  Von  Krusen- 
stern's  voyage. 

"  Some  particulars  respecting  them  were  given  by  La 
Perouse  and  Broughton.  The  former  of  these  writers 
says  that  '  the  Ainos  are  rather  below  the  middle  stature, 
being  at  most  five  feet  two  or  four  inches  high.  They 
have  a  thick,  bushy  beard,  black,  rough  hair,  hanging 
straight  down  ;  and,  excepting  in  the  beard,  they  have  the 
appearance  of  the  Kamtschadales,  only  their  countenance 
is  much  more  regular.  The  women  are  ugly  enough : 
their  colour,  which  is  dark,  their  coal-black  hair  combed 
over  their  faces,  blue-painted  lips,  and  tattooed  hands, 
allow  them  no  pretensions  to  beauty. 

"La  Perouse  says  'they  are  a  very  superior  race  to  the 
Chinese,  Japanese,  and  Mantschoos,  and  their  counte- 
nances are  more  regular,  and  more  similar  to  those  of 

Europeans The  inhabitants  of  the  Bay  of  Crillon 

were  particularly  beautiful  and  of  regular  features.'  The 
same  writer  adds,  that  '  their  skin  is  as  dark  as  that  of 
the  Algerincs.'  Broughton  says  'they  are  of  a  light 
copper-colour;'  but  Yon  Krusenstern  declares  that  they 
are  nearly  black. 

"But  the  most  remarkable  circumstance  in  the  physical 
character  of  the  Ainos  is,  that,  though  the  eastern  Asiatics 
are  in  general  very  deficient  in  hair  and  almost  beardless, 
they  are  the  most  hairy  race  of  people  in  the  world. 
'Their  beards,'  says  La  Perouse,  'hang  upon  their  breasts. 


EXTRACT   FROM   GOLOWNIN's  WORK.  309 

and  their  arms,  neck,  and  back  are  covered  witli  hair.  I 
observed  this  circumstance,'  he  adds,  'as  a  general  cha- 
racteristic, for  it  is  easy  to  find  individuals  equally  hairy 
in  Europe. 

"  Broughton  declares  that  their  bodies  are  ahuost  uni- 
versally covered  with  long,  black  hair,  and  that  he  observed 
the  same  appearance  even  in  some  young  children." 

The  foregoing  is  what  Dr.  Pritchard  says  on  the  sub- 
ject; while  Golownin,  writing  from  personal  observation 
during  his  strange  captivity,  remarks : — 

"The  appearance  of  the  inhabitants  of  Matsmai,  (Jesso,) 
and  of  the  other  Kurile  islands,  shows  clearly  that  they  are 
of  one  race ;  the  features,  the  uncommonly-brown  colour 
of  the  hairy  body,  the  black,  shining  hair,  the  beard, — 
every  thing,  in  short, — indicate  a  common  origin.  The 
only  difierence  between  them  now  is,  that  the  Ainu  of 
Matsmai  are  handsomer,  stronger,  and  more  active  than 
the  Kuriles,  to  which,  perhaps,  a  more  active  life  and 
abundance  of  good  food  have  greatly  contributed;  for 
the  Japanese  have  traded  \\dth  them  for  these  four  centu- 
ries, and  bring  them  not  only  rice,  but  even  articles  of 
luxury,  such  as  tobacco,  sage,  &c.  The  other  Kuriles, 
particularly  the  northern  ones,  live  in  indigence,  feed  on 
roots,  sea-animals,  and  wild  fowl,  of  which  they,  indeed, 
are  never  in  want ;  but  idleness  often  hinders  them  from 
collecting  a  proper  stock,  so  that  sometimes  they  pass 

several  days  without  food,  in  indolence  and  sleep 

In  trifles  the  Kuriles  like  to  imitate  us:  thus,  for  exam- 
ple, they  shave  their  beards  and  wear  long  tails.  The 
Ainu,  on  the  contrary,  wear  their  beards,  and  cut  their 
hair  like  the  Russian  wagoners,  only  something  shorter. 


310  CONTINUATION    OF    EXTRACT. 

Our  Kuriles  wear  Russian  dresses  of  all  fashions,  as  thej 
receive  tliem;  for  the  Ainu,  on  the  other  hand,  the  Ja- 
panese prepare  a  certain  dress,  according  to  the  Japanese 
cut,  and  of  hempen  cloth,  which  resembles  our  coarse, 
unbleached  sailcloth.  The  elders  receive  cotton  and  silk 
dresses.  If  one  of  them  particularly  distinguishes  him- 
self, the  Japanese  Government  rewards  him  with  a  splen- 
did dress  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver,  or  with  sabres 

in  silver  scabbards The  Government  has  ordered 

that  the  Ainu  shall  not  work  for  any  Japanese,  not  even 
for  the  crown,  without  payment.  For  every  kind  of 
work  a  price  is  fixed,  with  which  they  are,  however,  not 
content,  because  it  is  not  answerable  to  their  labour." 
And  again : — "  The  Ainu  live  in  winter  in  what  are  called 
jurten,  or  huts  of  earth,  and  in  summer  in  straw  huts, 
in  which  they  have  no  benches  or  seats,  but  sit  on  the 
ground,  either  on  the  grass  or  on  Japanese  mats.  Their 
food  consists  of  rice,  which  the  Japanese  supply  them 
with,  of  fish,  sea-animals,  sea-cabbage,  wild  herbs,  and 
roots.  Many  have  gardens  in  the  Japanese  fashion ; 
others  employ  themselves  in  the  chase :  they  kill,  with 
their  sjoears    and    arrows,  bears,  deer,  and    hare,  catch 

birds,  and  also  eat  dogs The  Ainu  are,  in  general, 

extremely  uncleanly.  They  never  wash  their  hands, 
faces,  or  bodies,  except  when  they  have  to  go  into  the 
water  to  do  some  work:  they  never  wash  their  clothes. 
....  Polygamy  is  allowed  among  them :  they  have  two 
or  three  wives,  and  the  elders  still  more. 

"  They  have  no  writing,  and,  consequently,  no  written 
laws :  every  thing  is  handed  down  from  one  generation 
to  another The  total  want  of  words  of  abuse  in 


HOW    OUR   OBSERVATIONS    COMPARED.  311 

their  language  is  a  proof  of  their  mildness  of  manners. 
....  The  sun  and  moon  are  their  divinities.  But  they 
have  neither  temples  nor  priests,  nor  any  religious  laws. 
....  They  have  here  [Matsmai]  oaks,  firs,  yew,  cypress, 
birch,  lime,  various  kinds  of  poplars,  maple,  aspen,  moun- 
tain-ash, and  many  others Of  quadrupeds  there 

are  bears,  wolves,  hares,  rabbits,  deer,  wild  goats,  sables, 
and  field-mice ;  in  summer,  geese,  ducks,  and  swans  visit 
them.  In  general,  all  the  same  sorts  of  laud  and  sea 
birds  are  found  here  as  in  Kamtschatka." 

My  own  observations  proved  the  gentlemen  from 
whose  woi-ks  the  foregoing  have  been  so  freely  quoted, 
to  have  been  well  informed  in  the  first  case  (except  it  be 
in  the  case  of  universal  hairiness  of  body)  and  a  true 
observer  in  the  last ;  while,  at  the  same  time,  they  enable 
me  to  make  a  few  general  comments. 

The  hairy  endowments  of  these  people  are  by  no 
means  so  extensive  as  the  foregoing  quotations  lead  one 
to  suppose.  As  a  general  rule,  they  shave  the  front  of 
the  head  a  la  Japanese,  and,  though  the  remaining  hair  is 
undoubtedly  very  thick  and  coarse,  yet  it  is  also  very 
straight,  and  owes  its  bushy  appearance  to  the  simple 
fact  of  constant  scratching  and  seldom  combing.  This 
remaining  hair  they  part  in  the  middle  and  allow  to 
grow  within  an  inch  of  the  shoulder.  The  prevailing 
hue  is  black,  but  it  often  possesses  a  brownish  cast, 
and  these  exceptions  cannot  be  owing  to  the  sun,  as 
it  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  they  sufler  a  like 
exposure  from  infancy  up.  Like  the  hair,  their  beard 
is  bushy,  and  from  the  same  causes.  It  is  generally 
black,  but  often  brownish,  and  seldom  exceeds  five  or 


312  EXAGERATION    OF    EARLY    WRITERS. 

six  inches  in  length.  I  only  saw  one  case  where  it 
reached  more  than  half-way  to  the  waist ;  and  here  the 
owner  was  evidently  proud  of  its  great  length,  as  he  had 
it  twisted  into  innumerable  small  ringlets,  well  greased, 
and  kept  in  something  like  order.  His  hair,  however, 
was  as  bushy  as  that  of  any  other.  As  this  individual 
was  evidently  the  most  "hairy  Kurile"  of  the  party,  we 
selected  him  as  the  one  most  likely  to  substantiate  the 
assertion  of  Broughton  in  regard  to  "  their  bodies  being 
almost  universally  covered  with  long  black  hair."  He 
readily  bared  his  arms  and  shoulders  for  inspection,  and 
(if  I  except  a  tuft  of  hair  on  each  shoulder-blade  of  the 
size  of  one's  hand)  we  found  his  body  to  be  no  more  hairy 
than  that  of  several  of  our  own  men.  The  existence  of 
those  two  tufts  of  hair  caused  us  to  examine  several  others, 
which  examinations  established  his  as  an  isolated  case. 

Their  beard,  which  grows  well  up  under  the  rather 
retreating  eye,  their  bushy  brows,  and  generally  wild  ap- 
pearance and  expression  of  countenance,  give  them  a 
most  savage  look,  singularly  at  variance  with  their  mild, 
almost  cringing,  manners.  When  drinking,  they  have  a 
habit  of  lifting  the  hanging  mustache  over  the  nose ; 
and  it  was  this  practice,  I  suppose,  which  caused  an  early 
writer  to  say,  "  their  beards  are  so  long  as  to  require  lift- 
ing up."  Though  undoubtedly  below  the  middle  height 
as  a  general  rule,  I  still  saw  several  who  would  be  called 
quite  large  men  in  any  country;  and,  though  the  average 
height  be  not  more  than  "five  feet  two  or  four  inches," 
they  make  up  the  diflfercncc  in  an  abundance  of  muscle. 
They  are  a  well-formed  race,  with  the  usual  powers  of 
endurance  accorded  to  savages  indicated  in  their  cxpan- 


:-^tf 


THE      AINU,      OR      HAIRY      K  U  R  I  L  E  S. 


THE    DARK   SIDE    OF    THE    PICTURE.  318 

Bive  chests  and  swelling  muscles.  Their  features  partake 
more  of  the  European  cast  than  any  other.  They  are 
generally  regular,  some  even  noble,  while  all  are  devoid 
of  that  expression  of  treacherous  cunning  which  stands 
out  in  such  bold  relief  from  the  faces  of  their  masters, — 
the  Japanese  and  northern  Chinese.  I  cannot  but  agree 
with  the  author  of  the  foregoing  remark  as  to  their 
superiority  over  those  nations. 

The  clothing  of  those  who  came  under  our  obser- 
vation never  consisted  of  more  than  three  articles, 
and  seldom  of  more  than  one.  Generally,  a  dressing- 
gown-like  garment,  made  from  the  inner  bark  of  an 
abundant  tree,  reaching  as  low  as  the  knee  and  confined 
round  the  waist  by  a  sash  of  similar  material,  constituted 
their  entire  suit.  Occasionally  they  wore  grass  sandals, 
sometimes  even  leggings  of  woven  bark  reaching  as 
high  as  the  knee ;  but  these  cases  were  rare.  Krusenstern 
says  that  "they  clothe  themselves  with  the  skins  of  dogs 
and  other  animals  in  winter,"  but  we  saw  no  signs  of 
any  such  garments.  Probably  they  clothe  themselves 
lightly  in  summer  in  order  to  appreciate  the  warmth  of 
skins  during  severe  changes. 

The  Ainos  are  unpleasantly  remarkable  as  a  people  in 
two  respects, — viz. :  the  primitive  nature  of  their  costume 
and  their  extreme  filthiness  of  person.  I  doubt  if  an 
Ainu  eyer  washes;  hence  the  existence  of  vermin  in  every 
thing  that  pertains  to  them,  as  well  as  a  great  variety  of 
cutaneous  diseases,  for  which  they  appear  to  have  few  or 
no  remedies.  There  is  another  side  to  the  picture,  how- 
ever, and  it  is  a  bright  one.  Their  moral  and  social 
qualities,  as  exhibited  both  in  their  intercourse  with  each 


314  THE    BRIGHT    SIDE    OF   THE    PICTURE. 

other  and  with  strangers,  is  beautiful  to  behold.  They 
are  a  people  who,  if  once  restored  to  the  freedom  of 
which  they  were  so  glaringly  deprived,  would  be  pecu- 
liarly fitted,  both  by  superiority  of  intellect  and  natural 
mildness  of  disposition,  to  receive  the  truths  of  a  gospel 
against  which  sensuality  and  innate  rascality  close  the 
eyes  of  the  nations  which  surround  them.  I  am  not  un- 
aware of  the  fact  that  years  have  elapsed  since  the  intro- 
duction by  the  Russians  of  the  tenets  of  the  Greek 
Church  into  their  more  northern  islands,  and  of  the  very 
few  sincere  converts  which  that  doctrine  has  obtained: 
but  what  more  can  be  expected  when  the  priest  visits  his 
flock  but  annually,  remains  a  few  days,  and  then  leaves 
them  to  the  association  of  sailors  and  Russian  hunters, 
the  nature  of  whose  lives  is  hy  no  means  calculated  to 
impress  them  favourably  in  regard  to  their  religion  ? 

"Love  to  one's  neighbour,"  true  generosity  of  disposi- 
tion, a  general  cheerfulness  of  manner,  and  a  modest  and 
retiring  bearing,  are  general  characteristics  which  strike 
the  eye  of  even  the  passing  stranger.  It  is  greatly  to  be 
lamented  that  a  single  bold  stroke  of  villany  on  the  part 
of  the  Japanese  should  have  degraded  a  great  part  of 
their  race  to  an  apparently-endless  servitude. 

I  cannot  account  for  Broughton's  assertion  in  regard 
to  their  being  of  "  a  light  copper-colour,"  unless  he  re- 
ferred to  a  few  isolated  cases.  As  I  have  previously 
remarked,  we  saw  several  hundred  men,  women,  and 
children,  and  these  were  all  of  a  dark  brownish-black, 
with  one  exception ;  which  exception  was  a  male  adult, 
strongly  suspected  of  being  a  half-breed.  In  regard  to 
the  several  quotations  which  I  have  inserted  from  the 


THEIR   MODES    OP    SALUTATION.  315 

truthful  pages  of  Captain  Golownin,  I  see  iiotliing 
that  clashes  with  my  own  experience.  From  our  own 
observation  since  arriving  in  Japanese  waters,  we  have 
all  been  forcibly  struck  with  the  remarkable  truthfulness 
of  the  contents  of  that  writer's  pages  :  it  is  undoubtedly 
the  best  work  extant  on  Japan,  (Commodore  Perry's  not 
excepted,)  and  as  such  may  be  read  with  confidence  by 
all  who  feel  an  interest  in  that  mysterious  people. 

The  Ainu  mode  of  salutation  at  joining  and  parting 
company  is  worthy  of  remark.  They  bring  the  tips 
of  the  fingers  up  to  the  eyes,  cast  the  latter  upon  the 
ground,  and,  in  a  low  voice,  indulge  in  quite  a  lengthy 
harangue,  while  stroking  the  beard  from  the  eyes  down- 
ward. This  latter  operation  is  repeated  as  long  as  the 
harangue  lasts,  at  the  end  of  which  they  glance  toward 
the  person  saluted,  and,  if  he  is  looking  another  way, 
the  process  is  repeated  until  they  catch  his  eye.  This 
also  seems  to  be  their  manner  of  returning  thanks  for 
any  present  received.  Their  sign  of  farewell,  however, 
consists  in  a  repeated  elevation  and  depression  of  the 
extended  hands,  something  after  the  manner  of  an 
Irish  nurse  dancing  her  charge  at  arm's  length  without 
regard  to  consequences.  (I  have  had  a  latent  feeling  of 
revenge  against  all  Irish  nurses  ever  since  one  of  them 
"danced"  me  out  of  her  arms  upon  a  brick  pavement 
some  thirty  years  since.)  In  addition  to  this,  when  one 
is  leaving  in  a  boat,  they  throw  after  her  receding  form 
curiously-carved  sticks  of  spruce,  whose  fine  shavings 
drawn  curlingly  to  either  end  give  them  very  much 
the  appearance  of  a  calker's  paying-mop  previous  to 
saturation  in  the  boiling  pitch.     What  this   ceremony 


31(5  WE    LEAVE   JAPAN   AND    THE   JAPANESE. 

means,  or  what  was  the  nature  of  their  mumbled  words, 
we  were  never  able  to  learn. 

So  much  for  the  "hahy  Kuriles:"  and  now  for  the 
winding-up  of  our  survey  along  their  coasts. 

Having  filled  up  with  wood  at  Tomari,  (for  Avhich  the 
Japanese  would  receive  notJmg,)  and  fixed  the  astro- 
nomical position  of  Cape  Soya,  the  northeastern  ex- 
tremity of  Jesso,  we  rounded  this  latter  under  steam, 
and  filled  in  the  coast-line  as  far  to  the  southward  as 
Cape  Shaef,  when,  a  dense  fog  putting  a  stop  to  all 
further  work,  the  head  of  the  old  ci-devant  anchor-hoy 
was  again  pointed  to  the  northward,  and,  after  we  had 
crossed  the  Straits  of  La  Perouse,  we  anchored  near  a 
rock  known  as  "  dangerous"  since  the  time  of  the  unfor- 
tunate La  Perouse.  At  least,  our  dead  reckoning  and  the 
distant  bellowing  of  seals  indicated  us  to  be  in  its  vicinity ; 
but  whether  we  were  or  not  the  dense  fog  rendered  it  im- 
possible for  us  to  say.  This  was  the  same  fog  that  had  ar- 
rested our  work  on  the  previous  evening,  since  which  time 
our  circle  of  vision  had  certainly  not  exceeded  one  hun- 
dred yards  in  diameter ;  and,  if  it  was  to  be  the  exponent 
of  the  weather  we  were  to  expect  throughout  the  Okotsk 
Sea,  we  were  indeed  entering  upon  a  desperate  work. 

"Blindman's  buft","  among  children,  is  undoubtedly  a 
pleasant  species  of  recreation ;  but,  when  it  comes  to  be 
indulged  in  between  vessels  and  rocks,  its  character 
assumes  quite  a  difl'erent  phase.  We  were  now  clear 
of  Japan,  and  at  anchor  upon  the  verge  of  the  Okotsk 
Sea,  awaiting  a  fair  wind  to  carry  us  across  it  to  the 
southern  point  of  Kamtschatka. 

This  was  the  15th  of  July,  1855. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

WB     REACH    THE     PENINSULA    OP     KAMTSCHATKA,     FOLLOW    ITS    WEST    COAST 
TO     THE     NORTHWARD,    AND  DISCOVER   A   COAL-MINE    AND    A    HALF-BURIED 

VILLAGE AFTER    WHICH     AVE     PROVE    A    NEW-FASHIONED     BOOTJACK,    AND 

TAKE    A    DIP    INTO    THE    SCIENCE    OF    GEOLOGY WE     FIND    THAT    SHOWEE- 

BATHS    ARE     NOT     ALWAYS    CLEANSING. 

We  bad  not  long  to  wait  for  our  fair  wind ;  and, 
though  anxious  to  locate  "dangerous  rock"  astronomi- 
cally before  leaving  those  unknown  shores,  we  finally 
despaired  of  the  fog  clearing  away,  and  called,  "All 
bauds  up  anchor!"  The  location  of  that  rock  would 
have  been  a  most  appropriate  winding-up  to  the  vast 
amount  of  work  which  we  had  accomplished  since  the 
commencement  of  this  portion  of  the  survey  at  the 
quiet  port  of  Hey-da. 

The  end  of  a  half-hour  saw  us  under  all  sail  and  no 
steam,  with  the  propeller  disconnected,  and  a  fine  breeze 
on  our  quarter,  progressing  at  the  promising  (?)  rate  of 
four  and  a  half  knots  an  hour  upon  our  foggy  path  of  over 
six  hundred  miles.  Poor  "  old  John !"  miserable  old  tub ! 
Months  have  passed  since  I  and  my  companions  in 
misery  left  your  fated  hull  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the 
ofiicials  of  the  San  Francisco  navy-yard,  and  thus  de- 
prived you  of  the  power  of  drowning  us  some  fine  morn- 
ing; but  I  saw,  by  the  Philadelphia  "Evening  Bulletin" 
of  April  30,  1856,  that  you  have  been  provided  with  a 

317 


318  WE   REACH   KAMTSCHATKA. 

new  set  of  flesh-and-blood  machines  and  sent  up  to 
Puget  Sound  to  engage  in  warlike  deeds  with  the 
Indians,  instead  of  being  broken  up  for  firewood.  How 
have  those  officers  and  men  rendered  themselves  ob- 
noxious to  the  "powers  that  be,"  dear  John,  that  they 
should  be  thus  sent  to  sea  in  such  a  miserable  old  craft 
as  you  are  ?  Are  we  so  plentiful  and  useless  just  at 
present  that  a  few  from  our  midst  won't  be  missed  ?  or 
is  it  that  the  Government  can't  afford  to  break  you  up 
and  build  a  safe  vessel  ?  But  my  feelings  are  running 
away  with  me,  John ;  and  so  let  us  return  to  our  passage 
across  the  Okotsk  Sea;  which  having  accomplished  in 
eight  days, —  sharp  work  for  you,  John! — we  rub  our 
eyes  one  morning  about  three  o'clock,  and,  shading 
them  with  the  right  hand  from  the  rays  of  the  rising 
sun,  gaze  upon  a  long,  low  sand-beach,  which  our 
chronometers  tell  us  is  the  west  coast  of  Kamtschatka. 
It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  24th  of  July  that  we, 
cautiously  feeling  our  way  with  the  lead  toward  the 
expected  shore,  discovered  the  low  sand-beach  already 
mentioned.  Further  than  that  there  was  nothing  to  be 
seen,  the  weather  being  so  hazy  as  to  shut  out  entirely 
the  high  land  of  the  interior.  Toward  noon,  however, 
it  lighted  up,  and  enabled  us  to  get  good  observations 
on  the  beach ;  after  which  we  hoisted  up  the  boat  and 
steered  a  north-by-west  course  along  the  beach,  keeping 
it  in  sight  at  from  one  to  two  miles'  distance,  and  carry- 
ing beautifully-regular  soundings  over  a  fine  anchoring- 
bottom  of  mud  and  sand.  These  soundings  we  made 
at  regular  intervals  of  ten  minutes,  and  for  hours  and 
hours  there  would  not  be  the  fourth  of  a  fathom  differ- 


REACHING   THE    OCEAn's    BED.  319 

ence  between  them.  It  was  a  vast  marine  plain  that  we 
were  sailing  over,  and  the  land  itself  was  low  and  level 
and  not  elevated  more  than  a  few  feet  above  the  sea.  I 
had  expected  to  find  a  country  of  volcanoes  and  a  dangerous 
and  variable  bottom.  Possibly  there  were  volcanoes  in  the 
interior  and  an  uneven  bottom  farther  out  to  sea;  but, 
for  the  last  few  days  of  our  passage  from  Japan,  the  lead 
had  told  us  that  we  were  sailing  over  a  beautifully  smooth 
and  inclined  plain.  We  were  agreeably  disappointed  in 
all  this ;  and,  the  heavy  "  chop-sea"  through  which  we  had 
rolled  for  the  last  week  having  left  us,  and  the  day  still 
continuing  beautifully  clear,  we  began  to  flatter  our- 
selves that  coasting  along  Kamtschatka  was  going  to 
be  a  very  fine  thing.  But,  before  I  follow  this  coasting 
any  further,  let  me  say  a  few  words  about  the  depth  of 
water,  &c.  between  the  Straits  of  La  Perouse  and  the 
point  where  we  rubbed  our  eyes,  some  one  hundred 
miles  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Lapatka,  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  along  which  we  were  run- 
ning. 

As  I  have  already  remarked,  we  were  engaged  eight 
days  in  the  passage,  being  under  sail  only,  as  it  was 
necessary  to  reserve  our  coal  for  the  actual  work  of  sur- 
veying. During  these  eight  days  we  sounded  with  deep- 
sea  twine  whenever  the  ordinary  line  failed  to  get  bot- 
tom, and  thus  kept  up  the  "line  of  soundings"  with  great 
success :  only  once  did  we  fail,  and  then  twelve  hundred 
fathoms  were  run  out  with  no  sign  of  bottom ;  the  breeze 
blew  quite  fresh,  and  caused  us  to  drift  away  from  the 
lead  too  fast.  Both  before  and  after  this  failure,  how- 
ever, less  line  brought  up  specimens  of  the  ocean's  bed. 


320  A   SINGULAR    WORM. 

These  specimens  generally  consisted  of  mud  and  sand, 
dead  shells,  and  small  stones,  the  former  often  containing 
a  singular  worm,  incrusted  in  a  brittle  shell  resembling  in 
form  the  figure  8,  and  which,  upon  being  broken  out  of 
said  shell,  twisted  about  the  deck  in  a  most  lively  man- 
ner. They  retained  life  in  the  atmosphere  several  minutes 
after  being  thus  exposed, — longer  than  one  would  have 
imagined,  when  it  is  recollected  that  they  had  previously 
existed  under  several  hundred  fathoms  of  water. 

Many  persons  have  an  idea  that  in  the  high  latitudes 
of  Kamtschatka  and  Siberia  even  the  summers  are  cold: 
our  thermometers  during  the  passage  gave  us  an  ave- 
rage temperature  of  50  degrees,  while  we  subsequently 
found  it  uncomfortably  warm.  And  this  was  in  lat. 
60°  N.  We  found  the  weather,  as  a  general  thing,  very 
changeable, — sometimes  disagreeably  cool,  and  then 
again  quite  warm. 

On  the  2Gth,  having  run  some  two  hundred  miles  to 
the  northward,  we  came  to  the  first  high  land  yet  seen ; 
and  here  our  soundings  began  to  lose  their  beautiful 
regularity,  and  the  coast,  taking  a  bend  to  the  eastward, 
caused  us  to  change  our  course  to  JS".  by  E.  Before 
doing  this,  however,  we  came  to  anchor,  lowered  a  boat, 
and  placed  her  at  the  disposal  of  the  master,  to  enable 
him  to  land  on  the  beach  and  fix  the  position  of  this 
point  by  astronomical  observation.  A  number  of  the 
mess,  curious  to  feel  the  soil  of  "despotic  Russia"  under 
their  feet,  or  hoping  to  shoot  an  eatable  animal  of  some 
sort,  took  passage  with  him,  while  we,  the  remainder, 
amused  ourselves  by  fishing. 

A  number  of  fine  flounders,  and  07ie  immense  crab,  re- 


A    GLORIOUS    OLD    CRAB.  321 

warded  our  exertions,  while  the  shore-party  returned 
shortly  after  noon,  full  of  glowing  accounts  of  black  bear 
and  gigantic  salmon,  but  without  either  the  one  or  the 
other :  they  had  neither  killed  or  caught  any  thing,  and 
were  in  high  glee  at  the  prospect  of  fried  flounders  and 
lobster-salad  to  be  made  from  the  enormous  crab,  whose 
legs  had  to  be  broken  off  to  get  him  into  our  largest  pot. 

This  fellow,  I  think,  deserves  more  than  a  passing 
comment ;  for  I  have  subsequently  searched  in  vain  for 
his  counterpart  through  various  authorities,  and  am 
forced  to  the  conclusion  that  they  are  a  half-crab,  half- 
lobster  freak  of  nature,  larger  even  than  the  latter,  and 
existing  only  on  those  or  similar  unfrequented  shores. 

I  say  "they,"  because  the  shore-party  reported  the 
beacb  as  being  crowded  with  similar  shells,  the  meat 
having  been  most  probably  scratched  out  by  the  bears, 
which  abound  along  that  coast  in  great  numbers.  Some 
of  the  shells  seen  were  from  seven  to  nine  inches  in 
diameter,  almost  round,  and  quite  thick  and  strong.  It 
was  in  the  claws  that  the  animal  resembled  the  lobster, 
every  thing  else  being  more  like  the  crab.  When  the 
fellow  that  we  had  caught  alongside  was  spread  out  on 
the  deck  upon  his  back,  his  legs  measured  three  feet  two 
inches  from  tip  to  tip;  and  when  we  turned  him  over  ho 
raised  himself  on  those  tips  several  inches  above  the  deck, 
as  if  to  command  a  better  view  of  things  in  general.  His 
smallest  legs  were  as  large  as  one's  little  finger;  and  it 
was  in  one  of  these  that  the  hook  had  accidentally  caught, 
the  shell  being  strong  enough  to  lift  him  over  the  ship's 
side.  Taking  the  taste  of  the  bears  for  good  authority, 
we  immediately  boiled  and  transferred  him  into  a  crab- 

21 


022  THE  crab's  revenge. 

lobster-Sill acl,  sufficient  for  the  whole  mess,  and,  unlike 
the  lobster,  remarkably  juicy  and  tender.  The  doctor 
listened  to  several  writhing  applicants  during  the  suc- 
ceeding night. 

After  all,  it  seemed  that  our  shore-party  had  narrowly 
escaped  a  most  unpleasant  time.  Upon  arriving  near  the 
beach,  the  surf  was  found  to  be  running  very  high ;  but 
they  w^ent  at  it  boldly,  and,  jumping  out  at  the  right 
time,  the  boat's  crew  ran  her  up  "high  and  dry."  They 
were  very  well  content  to  get  wet  no  higher  than  the 
knee. 

The  master  then  occupied  himself  with  his  observa- 
tions, while  the  ramblers  started  with  their  guns  and 
revolvers  back  into  the  country.  The  sight  of  large  and 
numerous  bear-tracks  served  to  create  a  feeling  of  affec- 
tionate companionship  which  kept  them  pretty  well 
together:  they  had  no  idea  of  attacking  Bruin  on  his 
own  soil,  singly,  and  advanced  with  prudent  caution  as 
they  neared  a  ridge  or  turned  the  bend  of  a  ravine. 
Finally,  they  came  to  a  river — a  broad  and  noble-looking 
stream — Avhose  snow-fed  waters  seemed  alive  w^ith  salmon 
of  the  largest  description  and  capable  of  floating  a  liner 
for  miles  into  the  interior.  They  did  not  reach  its 
mouth,  however,  and  could  not  say  if  it  was  free  or 
crossed  by  a  bar :  from  our  past  observation  we  inferred 
the  latter. 

They  found  the  country  sandy,  undulating,  and  mise- 
rably barren ;  not  a  sign  of  habitation,  and,  in  short,  a 
most  cheerless-looking  spot.  They  returned  to  the  boat, 
after  an  hour's  tramp,  with  a  few  semi-transparent  stones 
as  their  only  prizes,  and  were  there  received  with  the 


AN  UNFORTUNATE  CHANGE  OF  WEATHER.      323 

information  of  "a  dozen  or  more  bear"'  having  been 
seen  by  the  boat's  crew  farther  down  the  beach. 

"What  a  pity  we  didn't  go  that  way!"  said  one. 

"Maybe  it's  better  we  didn't,"  said  another. 

"J'm  going  after  them  now !"  said  a  third. 

"And  the  boat's  going  on  board,"  said  the  master,  as 
he  closed  his  boxes  and  beckoned  to  the  crew. 

"Just  like  our  luck!"  exclaimed  the  last  speaker,  in  a 
voice  of  fleeting  disgust:  "  we  might  as  well  have  stopped 
on  board." 

Ten  minutes  later,  and  the  boat  was  at  her  davits, 
while  the  shrill  whistle  of  our  only  boatswain's  mate  was 
ringing  around  the  silent  decks,  calling  the  wearied  crew 
to  the  oft-repeated  work  of  heaving  up  the  anchor,  and 
telling  of  work,  work,  nothing  but  work,  as  long  as  the 
daylight  lasted.  Another  ten  minutes,  and  we  were 
again  under  way,  continuing  through  rain  and  wind  the 
interminable  coast-line, — a  stormy  end  to  an  unexpected 
spell  of  good  weather. 

We  had  not  worked  along  thus  many  hours  when  the 
wind  hauled  ahead  and  increased  to  a  gale ;  so  we  had  to 
heave  to  and  let  it  blow  by.  It  lasted  all  that  night, 
and  we  were  rapidly  losing  much  of  our  hardly-gained 
ground,  when  the  weather  fortunately  moderated,  and  we 
were  enabled  once  more  to  close  in  with  the  beach  and 
continue  the  survey.  As  we  thus  worked  our  toilsome 
way  to  the  northward,  we  found  the  low,  flat  land  along 
which  we  had  been  hitherto  running,  gradually  changing 
its  nature  to  that  of  bold  and  towering  heights  that  lifted 
their  snow-clad  crests  far  into  the  foggy  sky  and  shoved 
their  rocky  bases  well  out  into  the  sea  in  the  shape  of 


324     EXCITEMENT  OVER  "FRESH  BEAR-TRACKS." 

rugged  promontories,  whose  frequent  ravines  were  filled 
with  melting  snow  and  dark,  shapeless  rocks,  and  whose 
ridges  and  sides  were  covered  by  a  dense  and  luxuriant 
vegetation.  It  was  singular  to  see  the  snows  of  the 
North  and  the  rank  vegetation  of  the  South  existing 
alongside  of  each  other,  where  we  had  expected  to  find 
nothing  but  the  former  and  a  stunted  growth  of  the 
arctic  pine. 

Every  now  and  then  we  would  pass  a  turbid  stream 
that  owed  its  periodical  existence  to  the  melting  snows 
of  the  last  winter ;  and  we  would  generally  see  a  wander- 
ing bear,  or  flock  of  geese  or  ducks,  near  its  mouth,  when 
we  would  amuse  ourselves  by  sending  a  Sharpe's-rifle 
messenger  to  notify  them  of  our  proximity,  though  the 
distance  was  always  too  great  to  enable  us  to  fire  with 
any  precision. 

As  we  thus  ran  along  over  that  unknown  ground,  with 
a  good  look-out,  bad  charts,  and  an  active  lead,  as  our 
only  pilots,  we  would  often  stop  off  the  mouths  of  those 
rivers,  or  under  the  sheltering  heights  of  those  rugged 
promontories,  to  get  astronomical  observations;  and, 
upon  these  occasions,  our  assistant  botanist  would  accom- 
pany the  shore-party,  and  generally  return  with  some  rare 
or  previously-unknown  arctic  plant,  while  the  gunners  of 
the  party  would  often  get  highly  excited  over  "fresh  bear- 
tracks,"  and  probably  bring  back  with  them  something 
more  substantial,  in  the  shape  of  a  brace  of  finely-fla- 
voured ducks,  or  some  unfortunate  goose. 

The  observations  which  were  thus  obtained  invariabl}^ 
proved  our  best  charts  to  be  dangerously  incorrect.  Upon 
one  occasion  I  remember  that  we  found  the  ship's  posi- 


UNEXCITING   SHIPWRECKS.  825 

tion  (on  the  chart)  to  be  some  distance  in-shore.  This 
we  regarded  in  the  light  of  a  most  innocent  shipwreck, 
and  enjoyed  it  accordingly.  When  this  took  place, 
Ave  were  in  lat.  58°  40'  K  and  long.  158°  43'  E.,  the 
beach  bearing  from  northeast  to  southwest  of  us,  and  dis- 
tant about  five  miles.  "We  subsequently  experienced 
many  similar  shipwrecks,  and  upon  one  occasion  found 
ourselves  upon  the  side  of  an  extinct  volcano  that  was 
actually  more  than  sixty  miles  from  the  sea.  So  much 
for  the  amount  of  reliance  that  can  be  placed  upon  the 
best  charts  of  that  region.  Those  which  loe  then  ob- 
tained data  for,  and  which  will  shortly  be  forthcoming 
from  the  able  hands  of  Commander  Rodgers,  will  conse- 
quently be  of  rare  value  to  our  whalers,  who  frequent  that 
coast,  and  annually  lose  one  or  more  of  their  fleet  simply 
from  the  want  of  good  charts. 

'■  As  we  thus  made  a  running  survey  of  those  unknown 
regions,  we  took  good  care  to  obtain  and  preserve  not 
only  specimens  from  the  hills  and  beach,  but  from  the 
bottom  of  the  sea  also.  We  had  two  species  of  "patent 
leads"  for  this  latter  work,  and  they  both  acted  admirably. 
One  of  them  was  intended  for  bringing  up  specimens  of 
the  bottom  when  the  depth  of  water  exceeded  two  or 
three  hundred  fathoms,  and  did  actually  once  bring  up 
a  thimbleful  of  sand  and  mud  from  the  enormous  depth 
of  three  thousand  five  hundred  fathoms.  That  was  in 
the  North  Pacific.  The  other  was  intended  to  be  used 
in  from  one  fathom  to  one  or  two  hundred,  and  it  often 
brought  up  a  pint  or  more  at  a  single  haul.  It  was 
curious  to  wash  out  these  specimens  in  a  bucket  of 
water  and  hunt  for  shells   and  other  "  wonders  of  the 


326  Brooke's  deep-sea  explorer. 

deep"  in  mud  aud  sand  that  had  existed  at  the  bottom 
of  the  ocean  for  centuries  in  their  undisturbed  seclusion. 

It  is  also  worthy  of  remark  that  both  of  these  admi- 
rable inventions  sjDrang  from  the  brains  of  two  of  our 
own  officers, — the  slioal-water  one  having  been  made  in 
Hong-Kong,  under  the  immediate  direction  of  Com- 
mander Rodgers,  while  the  "deep-sea  explorer"  was  got 
up  by  Passed  Midshipman  (now  Lieutenant)  John  M. 
Brooke,  the  able  astronomer  of  th6  expedition,  and  who 
is  even  now  trying  to  bring  it  before  the  notice  of  Con- 
gress. 

In  anticipation  of  these  leads  "working  well,"  we  had 
provided  ourselves  with  several  hundred  small  vials,  in 
which  every  thing  worth  preserving  was  stowed  away, 
after  which  it  was  sealed  up  and  labelled  carefully,  for 
future  examination. 

There  was  one  remarkable  fact  which  we  noticed  about 
the  soundings  along  that  entire  coast:  this  was  their  re- 
markable regularity,  without  regard  to  the  greater  or  less 
elevation  of  the  land  along  which  they  were  obtained. 
Generally  speaking,  (as  in  the  case  of  the  northern  and 
southern  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,)  soundings  are 
found  to  vary  with  the  nature  of  the  land;  that  is,  deep 
water  is  generally  found  off  bold  headlands,  and  shoal 
water  off  low  ranges:  but  in  this  case  we  found  only 
ten  or  twelve  fathoms  abreast  of  the  highest  points, 
which  was  no  increase  to  what  we  had  carried  along  ex- 
tensive tracts  of  country  whose  greatest  elevation  was  not 
probably  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet. 

These  towering,  precipitous,  and  black-looking  points 
presented  a  totally  different  appearance,  when  you  were 


POETRY  OF  FEELING  VS.   GALLINIPPERS.       327 

abreast  of  them,  from  wluit  they  did  when  their  sides 
only  were  exposed  to  view.  It  seemed  as  if  they  were 
mountains  of  loose  black  rock  that  had  been  lightly 
covered  by  a  fertile  soil,  and  then  the  end  of  them  that 
projected  into  the  sea  broken  off'  and  transported  to  "parts 
unknown,"  leaving  their  black-looking  faces  in  striking 
contrast  with  their  green  sides  and  snow-filled  ravines. 
We  found  them  occurring  at  intervals  of  several  miles, 
invariably  enclosing  long  strips  of  a  shingle  or  sandy 
beach,  from  which  the  green  lowland  retreated  into  an 
undulating  country  wdiich  was  itself  backed  by  the  blue 
mountains  of  the  distant  interior.  These  latter  were 
generally  either  perfect  or  truncated  cones,  and  combined 
with  other  unmistakable  signs  to  establish  the  fact  of 
previous  volcanic  action. 

It  was  an  interesting  occupation  to  watch  these 
changing  scenes  through  our  glasses ;  and  as  we  watched 
them,  we  admired  the  native  grandeur  of  those  towering 
promontories,  the  shining  beaches  darkened  here  and 
there  by  mountain-torrents  flowing  from  the  ravines  of 
melting  snow,  the  undulating  country  covered  by  its 
short-lived  but  rank  vegetation,  and  the  distant  cones  of 
heavenly  blue,  and  could  not  but  regret  the  prevalence  of 
those  arctic  winters  which  for  eight  out  of  the  twelve 
months  cover  such  a  beautiful  region  with  one  vast 
mantle  of  dazzling  snow.  This  poetical  state  of  mind, 
however,  received  a  severe  shock  on  our  first  landing, 
through  the  instrumentality  of  thousands  of  swarms  of 
the  gallinipper-breed  of  mosquito,  who,  regarding  us  in 
the  light  of  most  welcome  visitors,  soon  succeeded  in 
stinging  us  into  a  far  different  mood  of  feeling.     These 


328  now  WE  obtain  a  good  appetite. 

attentions  of  theirs  brought  vividly  before  my  slumber- 
ing memory  the  assertion  of  a  long-unseen  messmate,  to 
the  effect  that  "the  mosquito,  though  a  small  insect,  had 
often  been  known  to  move  a  man  weighing  over  two 
hundred,"  and,  further,  caused  us  to  return  on  board  with 
good  appetites,  the  result  of  the  unlooked-for  exercise 
which  we  had  been  forced  to  indulge  in  in  sheer  self- 
defence. 

We  not  only  saw  mountains  and  green  grass  as  we  thus 
cruised  along,  but  w^ould  often  fall  in  with  one  or  more 
wandering  whale-ships,  sometimes  homeward  bound  with 
full  cargoes,  sometimes  hove  to  under  reduced  sail  while 
their  boats  w-ere  chasing  a  whale,  and  at  other  times 
riding  to  their  uneasy  anchor  oft'  some  rocky  shore  while 
engaged  in  "trying  out"  the  oil  of  some  captured  mon- 
ster, w^hose  huge  carcass,  after  being  deprived  of  its 
blubber,  would  be  cut  adrift  from  the  ship's  side  and 
allowed  to  float  unheeded  before  the  wdnd  and  sea,  while 
another  of  his  ill-fated  companions,  who  had  all  along 
been  moored  securely  astern,  would  then  be  hauled  up  to 
undergo  a  like  "stripping." 

"We  would  generally  heave  to  or  anchor  near  all  such 
vessels,  and  communicate  with  them,  in  the  hope  of  get- 
ting information  in  regard  to  a  reported  coal-stratum  that 
we  were  in  search  of,  or  to  give  them  tracings  of  our  sur- 
veys, and  were  more  than  once  amused  at  their  peculiar 
mode  of  navigating.  Upon  asking  one  of  their  captains 
how  he  found  the  charts,  he  replied,  in  an  inditterent, 
don't-care  sort  of  way,  "Oh,  pretty  fair;  I  don't  find 
any  thing  much  out:"  and,  upon  our  telling  him  of  some 
of  our  previously-mentioned  "innocent  shipwrecks,"  he 


^^'^ 


''Pi!,: 


ONE    REASON    WHY    SO    MANY   WHALERS    ARE   LOST.      329 

expressed  great  surprise,  and  guessed  that  lie'd  "better 
be  taking  another  observation  soon;"  and,  upon  being 
pressed  a  little  further  on  the  same  subject,  he  candidly 
acknowledged  that  he  had  not  used  his  chronometer  for 
a  month, — having  been  too  busy  -with  ^vhales  to  pay  any 
attention  to  the  position  of  his  ship.  At  that  we  ceased 
to  wonder  over  the  loss  of  so  many  whalers :  our  only 
wonder  was  that  so  many  ever  reached  home  in  safety. 

I  have  already  remarked  that  we  were  in  search  of  a 
reported  coal-mine.  We  had  heard  from  a  whaling-cap- 
tain that  it  existed  along  the  northern  part  of  that  coast, 
and  that  he  had  once  picked  up  a  boat-load  of  it  on  the 
beach,  which  burned  beautifully  in  his  stove,  &c.  &c.  But 
unfortunately  he  had  not  taken  any  observations  for  some 
weeks  at  the  time  of  his  discovery,  and  was  consequently 
unable  to  give  us  its  latitude  within  any  thing  like  rea- 
sonable limits.  We  only  knew,  therefore,  that  there  was 
said  to  be  coal  along  that  coast  at  some  point,  and  that, 
unless  we  found  it,  the  "old  John"  would  soon  be  left  to 
depend  upon  her  sails  alone  for  motive-pow^er  and  our 
chances  of  ever  reaching  San  Francisco  be  alarmingly 
decreased.  We  consequently  kept  a  good  look-out  as  we 
ran  along  the  broken  shore,  and  in  the  end  were  amply 
rewarded  for  our  pains. 

It  was  about  two  hours  after  the  noon  of  July  30 
that  we  threw  our  maintopsail  to  the  mast,  stopped  the 
engine,  and  hove  to  off  the  entrance  of  what  promised 
to  be  a  fine  and  extensive  harbour,  which  we  subse- 
quently determined  to  be  in  lat.  61°  15'  N.  and  long. 
161°  31'  E.  We  had  followed  the  coast  down  very  closely 
heretofore ;  and,  as  the  general  appearance  of  the  land 


330  HOW    WE    PULL    BEFORE    A    SWELL. 

about  this  entrance  gave  greater  indication  of  the  exist- 
ence of  coal  than  any  we  had  yet  seen,  the  captain  de- 
termined to  run  in  for  the  night  at  any  rate,  and  leave 
again  the  next  morning  should  we  fail  in  discovering 
any. 

As  we  had  no  chart  of  this  harbour,  however,  as  we 
could  see  a  huge  pile  of  rocks  off  its  mouth,  and  as  there 
was  a  very  heavy  swell  running  in  at  the  time,  it  would 
have  been  any  thing  but  prudent  to  have  risked  the  ship 
by  entering  without  some  previous  examination ;  and  so 
a  boat  was  lowered,  and  I,  having  the  watch  below,  was 
called  to  go  in  her.  We  had  a  fine  time  getting  in  after 
we  were  once  started,  for  the  light  whale-boat  skimmed 
over  the  heavy  swells  like  a  feather,  sinking  out  of  sight 
in  their  deep  valleys,  or  being  lifted  on  their  rolling 
breasts,  as  the  case  might  be.  "We  stopped  every  two 
minutes  to  get  a  cast  of  the  lead,  until  the  water  began 
to  shoal  to  ten  or  twelve  fathoms,  when  we  began  to  cast 
it  as  fast  as  it  could  be  hauled  in. 

As  we  thus  pulled  in  toward  the  passage,  the  harbour 
opened  beautifully,  and  I  began  to  think  that  we  were 
finding  a  magnificently-protected  anchorage  on  those 
inhospitable  shores,  when  suddenly  the  lead  gave  but 
four  fathoms,  then  three,  and  lastly  only  two,  as  the 
depth  of  water.  So  we  immediately  turned  and  pulled 
at  right  angles  to  our  former  course,  when  the  water 
again  deepened,  seeming  to  promise  a  fair  anchorage 
under  the  huge  pile  of  rocks  already  alluded  to,  and 
which  we  now  found  to  lie  right  in  the  centre  of  the 
entrance  to  the  bay.  As  we  pulled  in  this  new  direction 
and  looked  back  at  the  harbour,  there  could  not  have 


DESCRIPTION   OF  THE    ANCHORAGE.  331 

been  presented  a  more  promising  appearance  of  good 
entry  and  subsequent  shelter. 

It  was  in  the  form  of  a  pot-book,  tbe  handle  being 
represented  by  the  mainland,  and  the  hook-part  by  a 
towering  and  curved  promontory,  while  the  "huge  pile 
of  rocks,"  which  proved  to  be  one  immense  irregular 
mass  surrounded  by  an  infinite  number  of  smaller  ones, 
was  situated  equidistant  from  either  of  those  points,  and 
about  a  mile  seaward  of  an  imaginary"  line  drawn  from 
the  point  of  the  hook  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  handle. 
At  this  latter  extremity  of  the  line,  w^here  it  joined  the 
mainland,  were  to  be  seen  several  mound-like  objects, 
having  posts  and  poles  stuck  in  and  around  them,  and 
looking  very  much  like  one  of  the  half-buried  villages 
which  we  had  read  of  as  being  common  to  Kamtschatka. 
We  could  see  no  smoke,  however,  and  thence  concluded 
it  to  be  uninhabited. 

In  passing  the  rock  for  which  we  were  now  pulling 
back,  I  had  expected  to  find  good  water  inside  the  hook ; 
but,  upon  arriving  at  our  imaginary  line,  it  had  shoaled, 
as  I  say,  to  two  fathoms,  and  so,  having  given  up  all  hope 
of  finding  an  anchorage  for  the  ship  inside  of  the  hook, 
we  were  now  looking  for  one  under  the  shelter  of  the 
rock.  This  latter,  though  quite  small  when  compared 
with  the  false  harbour,  was  nevertheless  quite  large 
enough  to  break  the  sea  as  it  rolled  in,  thus  creating  a 
kind  of  uneasy  anchorage  under  its  lee,  that  was  only 
acceptable  from  the  fact  of  there  being  no  other;  and  I 
therefore  picked  out  a  twelve-fathom  hole,  having  a  mud 
bottom  and  passably-smooth  surface,  and,  having  let  go 
our  little  anchor  near  its  centre,  hoisted  a  flag  as  a  signal 


332      PHILOSOPHY   VS,  THE    PHALACROCOKAX   CRISTATUS. 

to  the  ship,  which  had  been  following  the  boat  slowly 
in,  that  she  might  come  thus  for,  at  any  rate,  without 
danger.  In  about  ten  minutes  after  this,  she  was 
alongside  of  us,  when  she  let  go  her  anchor,  and  com- 
menced to  roll  with  such  energy  that  we  experienced  no 
little  difficulty  in  approaching  and  climbing  her  rusty 
old  sides. 

The  noise  created  by  the  chain  in  running  out  after 
the  anchor,  seemed  to  cause  considerable  alarm  to  im- 
mense numbers  of  a  large  and  black  duck-like  bird,  that 
had  their  thousand  nests  in  the  crevices  of  the  rock  under 
which  we  had  anchored,  and  who  left  said  nests  with  a 
sharp  discordant  cry,  as  the  unusual  sound  startled  them 
in  their  isolated  haunt  and  caused  them  to  fly  over  and 
about  us  in  inconceivable  numbers.  They  proved  to  be 
the  aquatic  fowl  vulgarly  known  as  the  shag,  and  to  the 
ornithologist  as  the  "  Phalacrocorax  cristatus" — a  crested, 
long-necked  cormorant,  that  we  subsequently  shot  in 
great  numbers  as  an  article  of  food,  (don't  start,  reader,) 
though  I  must  acknowledge  that  the  captain  and  a  few 
other  philosophers  were  the  only  ones  that  ever  succeeded 
in  the  treble  task  of  swallowing,  keeping  down,  and  pro- 
perly digesting  their  (to  me)  unsavory  flesh.  From  the 
immense  numbers  of  this  bird  which  covered  this  pile  of 
rocks,  we  called  the  principal  one  "Shag  Rock,"  and,  as 
such,  included  it  in  our  survey. 

We  had  no  sooner  furled  sails  and  got  the  ropes  laid 
up  about  the  decks,  than  two  boats  were  called  away, — one 
to  go  in  search  of  coal  along  the  inner  shore  of  the 
curved  promontory,  and  the  other  to  follow  down  the 
mainland  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot-hook.     In  the  first 


THE  NORTHWEST  PARROT.  333 

of  these  boats  went  the  captain  and  Lawton ;  while  in 
the  stern-sheets  of  the  second  reposed  the  master  and 
our  indefatigable  doctor,  with  his  small-bore  Kentucky 
rifle  to  keep  him  company.  Some  of  us  also  took  the 
tomtit,  (a  boat  smaller  even  than  the  dingy,)  and  pulled 
over  to  Shag  Rock,  with  a  heavy  ship's  musket  and 
revolver  each,  where  we  soon  commenced  blazing  away 
among  the  unfortunate  shags  and  northwest  parrots,  with 
an  energy  of  action  and  destructiveness  of  aim  that 
promised  to  till  our  boat  before  long. 

Though  I  had  pulled  in  from  the  ship  through  hun- 
dreds of  this  latter  bird  while  feeling  the  way  for  her,  I 
have,  until  now,  neglected  to  mention  them,  simply  be- 
cause it  was  not  until  our  landing  on  Shag  Rock  that  we 
were  enabled  to  get  a  close  view  of  them.  I  have,  since 
my  return  to  the  United  States,  searched  through  more 
than  one  writer  on  birds,  hoping  to  find  a  description  of 
this  particular  rarity,  but  without  success.  In  the  shape 
of  its  bill  it  approaches  the  puffin,  and,  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  its  head-feathers,  the  little  parrakeet-auk ;  but  in 
other  respects  it  differs  widely  from  both  of  these  birds. 
The  opposite  sketch  is  a  mathematical  drawing  of  the 
male  and  female,  one-sixth  life-size.  I  must  therefore 
conclude  that  it  is,  at  any  rate,  a  rare  specimen  of  the 
feathered  tribe,  and  hence  well  worthy  of  a  passing 
notice.  The  male  is  about  the  size  of  a  large  teal-duck, 
is  covered  with  dense  masses  of  variously-coloured 
feathers,  and  has  the  head  and  bill  of  a  imrroi^  (hence 
the  name  given  it  by  whalers,)  surmounted,  in  the  case 
of  the  female,  by  a  rooster-tail-like  crest  of  several 
inches  in  length,  and,  in  the  case  of  the  male,  adorned 


334  A   TERRIBLE    DISAPPOINTMENT. 

by  two  side-tufts  as  in  the  engraving.  It  is  web-footed, 
has  red  legs,  and  in  brilliancy  of  plumage  is  not  excelled 
by  the  well-known  Mandarin-duck  of  China,  or  the 
beautiful  wood-duck  of  our  own  country.  It  was  a 
fine  sight  to  see  them  falling  around  us  at  every  shot; 
and,  as  we  took  them  up  and  felt  their  great  weight 
and  plumpness,  we  looked  ahead  a  few  hours,  and  our 
mouths  watered  as  we  saw  them  at  the  head  of  an  im- 
aginary dinner-table,  with  the  savory  steam  rising  from 
their  well-browned  breasts,  and  the  ready  knife  hovering 
over  the  upright  fork. 

But  alas  for  all  human  anticipations  !  "When  we  came 
to  taste  them,  they  were  so  tough,  so  fishy,  and  so  musty, 
that  it  was  impossible  for  the  greatest  lover  of  game 
among  us  to  approach  them :  even  the  philosophical 
eaters  of  the  less  pretending  "shags"  shrunk  aghast 
before  this  terrible  disappointment,  and  loaded  their 
plates  with  the  black-looking  fragments  of  the  latter  in 
preference. 

When  I  say  that  our  northwest  parrot  had  the  head 
and  bill  of  the  ordinary  tropical  bird  of  the  same  name, 
I  must  except  the  hole  under  the  lower  jaw,  and  the 
thick,  black  tongue  of  the  latter ;  but  in  all  other  respects 
the  resemblance  was  very  close. 

When  we  returned  on  board  with  a  load  of  them  after 
our  impromptu  shooting-excursion,  we  found  that  the 
exploring-parties  had  got  back  ahead  of  us,  and  that  they 
had  discovered  a  very  accessible  stratum  of  coal  on  the 
inner  face  of  the  promontory;  also  a  small  river,  empty- 
ing into  the  bottom  of  the  hook,  whose  mouth  was  not 
blocked  up  by  salmon,  as  we  had  been  led  to  suppose  by 


'NOR'WEST     PARROTS"  — cm  ale     AND     FEMALE,    ONE-SIXTH     LIFE-SIZE.) 


THE    VILLAGE    PROVES  TO   BE    INHABITED.  335 

whalers ;  and  they  further  told  us  that  the  "  mound-like 
objects  having  sticks  and  poles  stuck  over  and  about 
them"  had  proved  to  be  very  comfortable  houses,  in 
which  a  number  of  natives  were  living.  These  latter 
were  all  males,  however,  and  the  entire  apparent  popula- 
tion of  the  village  did  not  exceed  fifteen  souls.  What 
they  had  done  with  their  women  and  female  children  we 
never  could  ascertain,  though  we  remained  with  them  a 
week,  during  which  time  we  traversed  much  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  without  seeing  a  sign  of  another  living 
creature,  not  even  so  much  as  a  bear.  We  finally  con- 
cluded that  they  had  some  inner  settlement,  to  which 
they  had  sent  them  for  safe-keeping,  and  wisely  gave  up 
all  idea  of  ever  learning  any  thing  on  the  subject.  But 
let  us  return  to  Shag  Rock. 

While  we  were  seated  around  our  long  mess-table, 
gazing  vacantly  at  the  overrated  parrots,  and  slowly 
making  up  our  minds  to  commence  the  attack  upon  a 
huge  piece  of  salt  pork,  the  quartermaster  came  down 
and  reported  that  the  tide  had  already  fallen  five  fathoms, 
and  that  it  was  still  falling.  So,  as  we  had  heard  from  tlie 
whalers  of  these  tides  sometimes  falling  so  much  as  to 
leave  a  ship  anchored  "high  and  dry"  upon  the  rocks,  we 
hurried  on  deck  to  see  what  it  meant.  Upon  looking 
around,  we  were  surprised  to  see  the  whole  hook  of  the 
harbour  some  distance  above  the  surfixce  of  the  water, 
while  pointed  rocks  had  sprung  up  between  us  and  the 
larger  one  under  which  we  were  anchored,  like  magic. 
This  was  the  more  singular,  as  we  had  noticed  no  upper 
current  indicative  of  such  a  great  rise  and  fall  of  tide, 
and  we  wondered  without  well  knowing  what  to  make 


336  WE   ATTACK   THE    COAL-STRATUM. 

of  it  or  what  to  expect  next.  Fortunately,  we  still  had 
seven  fathoms  under  us,  and,  as  it  only  fell  one  more,  our 
minds  were  put  to  rest. 

The  morning  after  our  timely  discovery  of  coal,  we 
"called  all  hands"  bright  and  early,  and  sent  Lawton,  our 
chief-engineer,  with  his  twelve  firemen  and  coal-heavers, 
to  attack  it  with  pick  and  shovel,  and  to  pronounce  upon 
its  quality. 

He  had  orders  to  continue  digging  if  he  found  it 
adapted  to  our  furnaces,  while  the  first  lieutenant  himself 
was  ordered  to  have  the  bags  and  boats  in  readiness  to 
bring  it  on  board  as  it  was  dug  out  by  the  shore-party. 
]N'ow,  this  was  going  to  work  without  delay;  but,  as  the 
first  day  would  be  likely  to  pass  before  they  could  get  out 
enough  to  make  it  worth  while  to  commence  the  trans- 
portation, several  of  us  took  advantage  of  the  unexpected 
holiday  to  shoulder  our  guns  and  take  a  boat  for  the  coal- 
stratum,  which  we  proposed  examining  first  and  then 
starting  back  into  the  country  for  a  bear-hunt  as  soon 
as  our  curiosity  should  be  satisfied. 

The  wind  was  blowing  quite  fresh  from  seaward  as  we 
started;  a  heavy  swell  was  also  setting  in  through  the 
channel  which  we  had  to  cross,  and  the  tide  was  falling 
so  rapidly  that  we  feared  grounding  inside  of  the  hook 
before  we  should  be  able  to  reach  the  landing.  It  Avas 
quite  cold,  too,  the  air  being  down  as  low  as  45°  Fahr., 
and  the  water  at  about  48° ;  so  that  it  would  have  been 
any  thing  but  comfortable  to  have  grounded  near  the 
middle  of  the  extensive  mud-flat  and  found  ourselves 
under  the  necessity  of  wading  on  shore,  or  remaining  in 
the  boat  with  the  retreating  water  breaking  over  us  and 


HOW  TO   CURE    THE    CHILLS.  337 

the  freshening  breeze  blowing  it  through  our  clothes  for 
several  hours,  and,  in  the  words  of  liartman,  chilling  us 
fearfully.  l^Tevertheless,  this  unpleasant  alternative  proved 
to  be  in  store  for  us ;  and  we  only  escaped  it  through  the 
generosity  of  the  boat's  crew,  who  insisted  upon  jumping 
out  as  soon  as  we  struck,  thus  lightening  the  boat  greatly, 
and  enabling  them  to  wade  her  up  to  the  nearest  point  of 
the  beach.  When  we  had  thus  reached  the  dry  land,  how- 
ever, they  paid  severely  for  their  kindness,  in  the  shape 
of  several  severe  cases  of  chills,  which  the  doctor  at  once 
took  in  hand  with  professional  activity  and  "knocked 
spots  out  of"  at  once.  Being  debarred  access  to  his  medi- 
cine-chest by  a  mile  or  more  of  salt  water,  he  hauled  a 
bottle  of  brandy  out  of  his  pocket,  and,  having  divided  it 
into  six  doses,  told  them  to  "drink  that,"  after  which  they 
expressed  themselves  considerably  "warmed  up;"  and, 
when  we  reached  the  blazing  coal-fire  which  Lawton  had 
already  got  under  way,  they  might  be  said  to  have  been 
in  better  condition  than  when  we  started. 

Upon  looking  around  us  we  noticed  three  or  four  coal- 
strata,  instead  of  one  only,  and  found,  also,  that  they 
were  quite  extensive.  They  w^ere  from  eighteen  inches 
to  three  feet  in  width,  ran  at  an  inclination  of  about  forty- 
five  degrees  with  the  surface  of  the  sea,  in  a  northwest 
and  southeast  direction,  (which  was  about  parallel  with 
the  trend  of  the  valleys,)  and  passed  entirely  through  the 
promontory.  This  latter  was  from  three  to  four  hundred 
feet  in  height,  was  possessed  of  very  steep  and  precipitous 
sides,  and  was  reared  upon  several  most  singular  forma- 
tions.    There  was  feldspar,  argillaceous  iron-ore,  and  a 

kind  of  secondary  sandstone, — a  petrifaction  evidently, 

22 


338  INTERESTING    PETRIFACTIONS. 

for  it  existed  in  every  stage  of  hardness.  It  was  to  be 
found  all  along  the  beach  in  the  shape  of  perfectly-round 
balls  of  about  the  size  of  an  orange,  as  well  as  in  huge, 
shapeless  fragments  of  rock.  Some  of  these  balls  were 
so  soft  as  to  flatten  easily  under  the  foot,  like  potters'  clay, 
while  others  were  as  hard  as  granite.  These  latter,  if 
thrown  forcibly  against  a  large  rock,  would  rebound  with 
the  elasticity  of  a  billiard-ball,  or  shatter  into  a  dozen 
fragments ;  and  in  the  latter  case  they  were  invariably 
found  to  contain  petrified  clams,  oysters,  various  other 
marine  shells,  and  the  impressions  of  a  great  number  of 
ferns  and  other  plants,  many  of  which  seemed  no  longer 
to  grow  on  the  hill-sides :  at  least  I  could  not  find  any. 

As  for  the  shells  of  the  clams  and  oysters,  they  were, 
generally  speaking,  perfect:  they  seemed  to  have  become 
filled  with  earth,  and  then  to  have  been  gradually  in- 
crusted  with  it  until  they  were  perfectly  round.  In  those 
which  flattened  under  the  foot  we  could  seldom  find 
shells,  the  half-decayed  leaves  and  stems  of  plants  being 
found  to  form  most  of  their  centres,  around  which,  snow- 
ball-like, the  outer  coatings  seemed  to  collect  as  they  rolled; 
but  how  it  was  that  they  were  rolled,  unless  by  the  ebbing 
and  flowing  tide,  we  could  never  imagine.  It  was  sin- 
gular to  break  open  some  of  these  hard,  cannon-like  balls 
and  find  oysters  and  clams  inside  of  them,  while  there 
was  not  at  the  time  to  be  found  living  specimens  within 
miles  of  the  spot.  In  fact,  we  never  met  with  oysters 
along  the  whole  coast.  But  the  thing  which  surprised 
us  most  was  the  existence,  in  spots,  of  a  greasy  kind  of 
clay,  the  like  of  which  I  had  never  before  read  of  or  seen. 
Walking  along  the  beach,  one  would  put  his  foot  on  what 


A   NEW-FASHIONED    BOOTJACK.  339 

was  apparently  the  backbone  of  a  bed  of  dark-gray  gra- 
nite or  sandstone,  when,  presto !  instead  of  feeling  a  solid 
rock  under  his  foot,  he  would  find  himself  boot-top 
under;  and,  upon  being  assisted  to  haul  his  leg  out,  he 
would  either  leave  his  boot  behind,  or  drag  it  out  be- 
smeared with  a  greasy  paste,  just  for  all  the  world  as  if 
he  had  stepped  into  a  tub  of  soft  soap.  It  acted  the  part 
of  a  bootjack  for  us  more  than  once,  and  with  admirable 
success. 

In  some  places  this  singular  substance  ran  from  the 
mountain's  side  just  like  so  much  fat, — not  in  a  stream, 
for  its  consistency  was  too  great  to  admit  of  flowing; 
but  we  often  found  basins  of  it  that  had  apparently 
soaked  through  the  earth,  and  in  these  cases  it  was  so  thin 
as  to  admit  readily  of  being  stirred  with  a  stick.  In 
other  places  it  was  found  in  a  more  dense  state ;  and 
in  this  latter  stage  it  often  proved  a  great  drawback  to 
us  in  our  mining-operations,  for,  as  it  generally  existed 
in  layers  over  and  between  the  strata  of  coal,  we  had 
to  dig  it  away  with  shovels  before  we  could  get  at  this 
latter.  It  was  so  sticky  that  it  often  refused  to  leave 
the  shovel,  and  the  men  complained  greatly  of  its 
straining  their  arms.  One  man  who  attempted  to  heave 
a  shovelful  of  it  down  the  hill-side,  while  his  footing 
was  none  of  the  firmest,  had  it  stick  to  such  an  extent 
as  to  carry  him  down,  shovel  and  all,  upon  the  boggy 
pile,  where  he  stuck  horizontally  upon  all  fours  until 
some  of  his  fellow-shovellers  hauled  him  out.  And 
there  were  two  others  who  resorted  to  a  "clinch"  as 
the  readiest  mode  of  reconciling  a  diiference  of  opinion, 
when  the  weaker  party,  falling  upon  his  back  with  the 


340  NOT   THE   BEST    WAY   TO    SETTLE    A    DISPUTE. 

clay  under  him  and  liis  antagonist  on  top,  was  left  in 
that  position  by  his  now-satisfied  foe  without  the  most 
remote  prospect  of  ever  getting  up  through  his  own 
unaided  exertions.  He  might  just  as  well  have  been 
tied  down,  as  was  the  great  Gulliver,  for  even  his  hair 
stuck  so  fast  that  he  could  not  lift  up  his  head :  all 
that  he  could  do  was  to  roll  his  e3'es  about  and  work 
his  arms,  which  only  served  to  "fit  him"  to  greater 
advantage.  Upon  being  assisted  to  his  feet,  he  was 
heard  to  express  himself  against  "clinchin"' — as  the 
best  mode  of  settling  a  dispute — "upon  sich  ground 
as  this." 

Before  leaving,  I  rolled  up  a  ball  of  the  singular  sub- 
stance, intending  to  preserve  it  for  future  analyzatiou, 
but,  unfortunately,  lost  it  before  an  opportunity  presented 
itself.  This  ball,  which  was  at  first  of  about  the  consist- 
ency of  working-putty,  soon  became  as  hard  as  soap- 
stone  and  susceptible  of  receiving  quite  a  polish.  It 
was  of  the  colour  of  a  yellowish-white  clay,  and  without 
odour. 

The  general  formation  of  the  promontory  was  of  sand- 
stone of  several  difl:erent  varieties.  Along  the  beach, 
and  projecting  from  the  side  of  the  cliffs,  it  was  to  be 
seen  in  the  shape  of  huge  boulders  or  pointed  fragments, 
that  had  become  blackened  through  the  combined  action 
of  time  and  the  elements  and  rendered  as  hard  as  granite ; 
while  in  the  beds  of  the  ravines  and  gullies  it  was  found 
in  a  secondary  state,  so  soft  that  the  water  in  running 
over  it  loosened  the  minute  particles,  and,  carrying  them 
along  in  suspension,  rendered  itself  totally  unfit  for 
either  bathing  or  drinking  purposes.      Catch  a  cupful 


DISAPPOINTED    IN    A    SIIOWER-BATII.  341 

of  it  as  it  fell  clear  and  sparkling  in  the  shape  of  a 
picturesque-looking  cascade,  and,  before  it  was  suf- 
ficiently settled  to  be  drunk,  there  would  have  col- 
lected a  teaspoonful  of  a  greasy,  paste-like  sediment 
in  the  bottom ;  and,  when  we  once  went  to  take  a 
refreshing  shower-bath,  as  we  flattered  ourselves,  under 
said  picturesque  cascade,  it  filled  our  eyes,  ears,  and 
hair  to  such  an  extent  that  we  were  glad  to  take  a  dip 
in  the  less-promising  surf  that  was  rolling  at  our  feet. 

The  soil  which  existed  on  this  sandstone  as  a  base 
was  of  a  loose  sandy  nature,  and  was  sprinkled  about 
quite  liberally  with  patches  of  the  "bootjack  clay,"  which 
rendered  running,  leaping,  and  jumping  along  the 
mountain-side  any  thing  but  comfortable.  We  soon 
learned,  however,  to  detect  the  presence  of  "a  bog," 
as  they  shortly  came  to  be  called,  and  to  guide  our 
steps  accordingly.  These  patches  on  the  hill-sides  almost 
invariably  supported  a  hoarfrost-like  growth,  which, 
seeing  nowhere  else,  we  had  but  to  loalk  around  and 
keep  on  firm  ground.  Having  no  such  warning  along 
the  beach,  however,  we  did  not  fare  so  well.  There  it 
not  only  came  up  in  the  shape  of  a  ridge  of  rock,  as  I 
have  already  observed,  but  it  also  existed  in  quick- 
sand-like formations  which  there  was  no  avoiding. 
Then,  if  you  did  not  recover  yourself  with  active 
readiness,  you  would  soon  be  "boot-top  under."  I 
myself  once  "got  my  foot  into  it"  so  deep  that,  in 
bracing  myself  on  the  other  to  haul  out  by,  the  edge 
of  the  hard  sand  that  supported  me  caved  in  and  left 
me  knee-deep,  with  a  very  small  prospect  of  getting  out 
without  foreign  help.     I  could  lift  either  foot  half-way 


342  I   AND    MY    BOOT    PART    COMPANY. 

out  easily  enough;  but  the  angle  made  by  the  lower 
and  upper  parts  of  my  legs  (the  knee  being  the  vertex) 
would  then  become  so  small  as  to  deprive  me  of  the 
power  of  lifting  it  higher,  and,  when  I  attempted  to 
bear  my  weight  on  it  to  haul  up  the  other,  I  only 
worked  down  deeper. 

I  was  glad  enough  when  a  couple  of  strong  arms  lifted 
me  bodil}^  out,  minus  one  boot ;  and,  after  thanking  my 
stalwart  friend,  lay  cautiously  down  upon  the  hard  part 
of  the  beach,  and  shoved  my  arm  down  after  the  miss- 
ing article,  which,  singular  to  say,  I  drew  out  perfectly 
empty.  It  had  collapsed  as  soon  as  my  foot  left  it ;  and 
all  that  I  had  to  do  was  to  pull  it  quietly  on  and  walk 
more  carefully  in  future. 

As  soon  as  I  had  stamped  my  foot  well  down  into  the 
softened  leather,  and  scraped  off  a  pound  or  more  of  the 
adhering  patent  bootjack-mixture,  I  took  a  long  stick 
and  shoved  it  down  the  half-filled  hole  from  which  I  had 
rescued  my  boot,  to  see  how  far  I  might  have  sunk  had 
not  a  "  friend  in  need"  been  at  hand.  It  had  gone  down 
only  about  two  feet  when  I  felt  a  rock  or  some  other 
hard  substance ;  and  we  subsequently  found  that  these 
"patches"  seldom  extended  to  a  greater  depth,  so  that, 
though  considerably  inconvenient,  they  were  not  at  all 
dangerous. 


CHAPTER  XVin. 

WE  LEAVE  THE  COAL-MINE  FOR  A  HUNT,  AND  ENCOUNTER  ANOTHER  PARTY 
SIMILARLY  ENGAGED — WE  RETURN  WITH  THEM  TO  THE  VILLAGE  AND  ARE 
HOSPITABLY  ENTERTAINED — THE  HEADMAN  NOT  AN  ADVOCATE  OF  THE 
MAINE  LIQUOR-LAW — HOW  WE  "COALED  SHIP,"  AND  HOW  WE  RAN  A  RACE 
WITH    A    FLOOD-TIDE. 

The  last  part  of  the  previous  chapter  was  chiefly  devoted 
to  the  different  formations  about  the  coal-strata  in  general, 
and  the  "patent  bootjack-mixture"  in  particular;  and 
now  I  will  leave  Lawton  and  his  dozen  firemen  digging 
away  at  its  gum-like  strength,  and  carry  the  reader  along 
with  the  doctor  and  myself  as  we  started  to  follow  the 
swampy  bank  of  the  small  river  that  emptied  into  the 
bottom  of  the  hook  at  high-water,  and  which  at  low  tide 
ran  a  mile  or  more  over  the  flats  of  said  hook,  until  it 
finally  reached  the  sea  at  the  imaginary  line  previously 
spoken  of. 

This  hook,  as  I  have  already  said,  formed  an  inner 
harbour  at  high-water  and  an  extensive  mud-flat  when 
the  tide  was  down ;  and,  as  the  river  widened  its  channel 
considerably  while  running  over  it,  thus  decreasing  its 
depth  in  proportion,  there  was  no  difficulty  in  crossing 
in  a  straight  line  from  the  coal-mine  to  the  opposite  vil- 
lage at  low  tides.  In  the  present  case,  however,  we  de- 
termined to  follow  the  river  up  into  the  mountains,  in 
the  hope  of  crossing  the  track  of  some  bear  or  other 

343 


344  WE    ARRIVE    AT    A    CONCLUSION. 

game,  and  finally  visiting  the  village  on  our  return. 
So  we  left  this  latter  on  our  right  and  the  coal-mine  in 
our  rear,  and  trudged  along  through  the  soft  and  spongy 
turf  and  over  the  rugged  tails  of  ridges  that  ran  down 
and  terminated  at  the  river,  until  we  had  pretty  well  tired 
ourselves  out,  and  arrived,  not  at  the  mountains,  but  at 
the  conclusion  that  we  had  walked  along  the  boggy  bank 
quite  fiir  enough,  and  that  if  we  expected  to  visit  the 
village  and  regain  the  ship  before  night  it  was  full  time 
for  us  to  be  turning  back  and  "  stirring  our  stumps." 
So  we  took  advantage  of  the  first  fordable  part  of  the 
river  to  wade  across,  and  soon  found  ourselves  climbing 
the  hills  on  the  opposite  side. 

From  the  top  of  these  hills  we  now  looked  toward  the 
village  over  a  treeless  expanse  of  undulating  land,  whose 
broken  surface  was  covered  with  a  dense  but  dry  turf,  in 
which  the  foot  sank  over  the  ankle  at  every  step,  and 
whose  occasional  ravines  were  hidden  by  groves  of  dwarf 
pines,  under  which  a  long  and  wiry  grass  grew,  and 
twisted,  and  turned,  and  re  twisted  itself,  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  render  it  any  thing  but  an  easy  matter  to  work 
our  way  down,  over,  and  up  to  the  opposite  heights.  Still, 
even  that  was  better  than  the  muddy,  spongy  walking 
along  the  river's  bank;  and  so  we  continued  on  over  the 
yielding  turf  and  through  the  tangled  grass  until  we  had 
crossed  the  last  ravine  and  ascended  to  the  extensive 
prairie-like  plain  upon  the  sea-edge  of  which  the  mound- 
like houses  of  the  village  were  located. 

We  had  not  walked  many  hundred  yards  over  this 
beautiful  carpeting  of  grass  before  our  attention  was 
attracted  by  a  shout  upon  our  left,  and,  as  we  turned  in 


WE    ENCOUNTER   NATIVES.  345 

that  direction,  we  beheld  a  party  of  five  persons,  among 
whom  we  recognised  Hartman  and  another  of  our  mess- 
mates, while  the  remainder  were  buckskin-clad  natives, 
who  apparently  had  been  pressed  into  their  service  as 
guides.  These  latter  we  found  to  consist  of  a  father  and 
two  sons,  the  former  of  whom  carried  a  smooth-bore 
flint-rifle,  to  which  was  attached  a  permanent  rest  in  the 
shape  of  a  wooden  prong,  pivoted  at  its  vertex  to  the 
stock  near  the  muzzle,  while  in  his  belt  was  stuck  a 
short  knife,  and  down  his  right  leg,  outside,  in  a  socket 
worked  in  his  leggings,  a  very  long  one.  '  His  sons  were 
rigged  out  in  a  similar  style,  with  the  exception  of 
having  no  gun;  and  they  gave  us  to  understand  that 
when  the  old  gentleman  wounded  a  bear  with  his  gun 
they  drew  their  long  knives  to  assist  him  in  the  conflict 
which  followed.  The  short  ones  they  used  for  cutting 
and  eating. 

As  they  joined  iis,  we  regarded  them  as  curiously  as 
they  did  us,  for  they  were  the  first  of  their  kind  we  had 
seen,  though  we  had  read  much  of  their  habits  and  seen 
many  engravings  of  Kamtchadales  in  such  works  as 
Dr.  Pritchard's  "IlTatural  History."  I  was  surprised  to 
find  them  entirely  differing  from  those  engravings ;  and 
my  surprise  lasted  until  we  reached  Ayan,  when  "  old 
Frybark" — the  Russian  officer  in  command — explained 
it  all  away. 

The  Kamtchadales  proper,  he  said,  were  mostly  con- 
fined to  the  interior  and  east  coast  of  the  peninsula,  while 
the  few  people  found  on  the  west  coast  (where  we  were) 
were  a  mongrel-breed,  springing  from  Russians  and  the 
Ee-ah-couts  Indians,  and  presenting  the  ethnologist  with 


346  HOW   THEY    CLOTHE    THEMSELVES. 

a  most  puzzling  diversity  of  feature  and  general  appear- 
ance. 

These  particular  three  whom  we  now  joined — and,  in 
fact,  all  of  those  whom  we  subsequently  encountered  in 
the  village — were  of  ordinary  stature,  flat-featured,  and  of 
a  sallow,  olive  complexion;  and  that  is  about  all  I  can 
say  of  them.  They  were  dressed  in  loose  garments  of 
reindeer-skins  that  had  been  well  cured,  with  the  hair 
inside,  and  the  red  and  polished  buckskin  turned  outside 
to  bid  defiance  to  every  thing  in  the  shape  of  briers,  and 
almost  to  old  Time  himself.  It  was  difficult  to  imagine 
how  such  clothes  could  ever  wear  out,  so  preserving  a 
polish  had  they  received  from  the  combination  of  dirt 
and  grease  with  which  they  seemed  to  be  brought  in  con- 
stant contact. 

Their  trousers  and  boots — or  rather,  I  should  say,  moc- 
casins— were  made  in  one,  and  a  smockfrock-like  gar- 
ment came  down  half-way  to  the  knee  and  was  confined 
around  the  waist  by  a  buckskin  belt.  This  frock  was 
provided  with  a  hood,  which  usually  hung  down  the  back, 
but  which  could  be  hauled  over  both  head  and  face  at  the 
pleasure  of  the  wearer.  When  thus  rigged  out  they  were 
cold-proof,  and  in  fact  ivater-proof  also,  as  long  as  they  did 
not  wade  where  it  was  more  than  waist-deep.  Some  of 
their  clothes  were  sewed  with  waxed  thread,  obtained 
probably  years  back  from  wandering  whalers,  while 
others  were  more  perceptibly,  but  with  equal  neatness 
and  far  greater  strength,  stitched  together  with  threads 
drawn  from  the  sinews  of  the  reindeer  or  mountain-elk. 

Although  our  examination  of  Hartman's  companions 
was  so  very  close,  it  was  not  a  whit  more  so  than  theirs. 


EXTRAVAGANT  DELIGHT  OF  THE  HEADMAN.     347 

They  mixed  with  us  in  perfect  confidence,  (though  they 
had  at  first  mistaken  us  for  Frenchmen  come  to  bombard 
their  town,  and  now  only  had  our  word  to  the  contrary,) 
and  examined  every  thing  about  us  with  the  greatest 
curiosity.  And  there  I  w^as  surprised  to  see  how  well  the 
French  were  known,  and  how  totally  the  English  were 
wiknown.  "Franco  no  dobre,"  they  would  say, — French 
no  good;  but  we  could  not  get  a  word  or  ev^en  a  look 
from  them  when  speaking  of  the  English.  They  drank 
a  glass  of  brandy  with  undoubted  gusto,  and  then  com- 
menced to  examine  our  clothes,  boots,  w^eapons,  &c.  &c. 
What  surprised  them  most,  and  excited  their  admiration 
to  the  highest  pitch,  was  the  fineness  of  the  grains  of  our 
powder,  which  the  father  of  the  party  could  not  cease 
comparing  with  his  own,  asking  by  signs  if  we  had  any 
to  give  away.  "We  gave  him  to  understand  in  return  that 
we  would  give  him  a  capful  of  it  if  he  would  shoot  us 
a  mountain-elk  and  bring  it  on  board,  upon  which  he 
danced  around  in  frantic  delight,  partly  from  the  effects 
of  brandy  and  partly  from  those  of  joy,  I  suppose,  and, 
when  he  had  in  a  manner  recovered  his  composure,  in- 
formed us  that  as  soon  as  he  could  get  a  horse  in  from 
the  country  he  would  mount  him  and  ride  away,  after 
which  we  might  soon  expect  to  see  him  returning  with  a 
buck  on  said  horse's  shoulders.  His  manner  of  explain- 
ing to  us  that  he  was  talking  about  a  horse  was  simple  in 
the  extreme.  He  only  straddled  the  forefinger  of  his  left 
hand  with  the  fore  and  middle  finger  of  his  right,  neighed 
very  horse-like,  then  clucked  with  his  mouth,  and,  finally, 
belaboured  an  imaginary  animal  most  unmercifully  with 
his  hide-covered  heels. 


348  WE   REACH    THE    VILLAGE. 

After  all  this  he  went  on  to  inform  ns  that  he  should 
he  perfectly  contented  when  he  should  become  possessed 
of  so  much  powder ;  that  it  would  certainly  last  him  to 
his  grave,  and  that  when  it  was  gone  he  would  he  willing 
to  die.  He  never  fired  more  than  once  at  a  deer,  he  said ; 
and,  throwing  himself  on  the  ground  flat  on  his  face,  he 
planted  his  forked  rest  firmly,  showed  us  how  he  called 
the  deer  toward  him,  how  he  took  aim,  motioned  us  to 
imagine  him  covered  with  bushes  so  that  he  could  not  he 
seen,  and,  having  satisfied  us  fully  on  all  these  points, 
recovered  his  feet  with  the  agility  of  a  monkey,  and  fol- 
lowed us  as  we  walked  toward  the  village. 

As  we  approached  this  latter,  a  number  of  shaggy  dogs 
barked  and  howled  at  us  as  they  retreated  behind  the 
piles  of  earth  which  we  had  justly  taken  to  be  the  houses ; 
and  we  were  expecting  to  see  crowds  of  women  and  chil- 
dren alarmed  by  said  barking  and  coming  out  to  see 
"what  the  row  was,"  when  our  friend  of  the  smooth-bore 
flint-rifle  suddenly  opened  a  door  and  motioned  us  to 
enter.  It  was  a  long,  dark,  and  narrow  archway,  down 
which  we  peered  as  the  door  was  opened ;  and  a  greasy 
smell  of  whale-blubber,  half-cured  fish,  &c.  that  broke 
upon  our  noses,  combined  with  the  dim  light  of  a  murky 
fire  in  a  distant  apartment  at  its  end,  took  away  every 
thing  that  might  have  been  pleasant  in  the  prospect  of 
resting  our  wearied  limbs  in  a  warm  atmosphere.  And, 
as  we  "hang  back"  at  that  door  and  look  in  one  another's 
faces,  as  much  as  to  ask.  Shall  we  brave  that  odour? 
let  me  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  outer  appearance  of 
those  singular  habitations. 

They  resembled  the  half  of  a  long-necked  gourd, — one 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THEIR   HOUSES.  349 

that  has  been  split  in  half  to  make  two  drinking-cups 
of,  and  having  a  dozen  or  more  pins  stuck  in  the  out- 
side of  the  bottom  of  the  cup,  which,  in  this  case,  cor- 
responds to  the  roof  of  the  house.  Altogether,  they 
were  most  outlandish-looking  houses  outside  ;  but,  when 
you  once  entered  them,  the  philosophy  of  their  peculiar 
construction  became  beautifully  apparent.  The  long, 
dark,  and  narrow  archway  down  which  we  looked 
proved  to  be  a  passage  of  some  four  feet  in  width  by 
forty  or  fifty  in  length,  and  was  flanked  on  either  side 
by  angular  spaces  resembling  the  wings  of  a  garret, 
which  were  admirably  adapted  for  the  storage  of  winter 
provender  in  the  shape  of  dried  seal  and  deer-meat, 
smoked  salmon,  whale-blubber,  &c.  &c.,  besides  adding 
largely  to  the  air-room — if  I  may  be  allowed  the  ex- 
pression— of  the  house  in  general;  and  the  "pins"  proved 
to  be  poles  connected  with  the  cavity  which  answered 
the  purpose  of  a  chimney. 

As  we  passed  through  this  lengthy  and  gloomy  passage- 
way, the  "greasy  odour"  before  alluded  to  grew  stronger 
and  stronger ;  and  I  for  one  had  made  up  my  mind,  as 
we  emerged  from  it  into  the  spacious  and  bowl-like 
apartment,  that  my  stay  was  to  be  of  exceeding  limited 
duration.  Imagine  my  pleasant  surprise,  therefore, 
when  I  found  that  the  air  of  this  larger  apartment  was, 
comparatively  speaking,  quite  pure.  I  drew  a  long 
breath  of  it  as  I  became  aware  of  the  fact,  and,  ad- 
vancing toward  the  fire,  seated  myself  on  a  pile  of  deer- 
skins and  began  to  look  around  me. 

The  first  thing  that  I  saw  was  a  large  and  circular 
apartment,  possessing  a  diameter  of  probably  forty  feet, 


350  THE  headman's  family. 

a  height  of  some  fifteen  in  the  centre,  and  which  de- 
creased dome-like  as  it  neared  the  ground-part  of  the 
sides.  In  the  centre  of  the  curved  ceiling  there  was 
quite  a  large  aperture,  and  directly  underneath  this 
were  piled  a  numher  of  hearth-stones,  over  and  about 
which  a  lately-built  fire  was  smoking  itself  into  a  state 
of  fitful  "blaziness"  in  honour  of  our  discovered  ap- 
proach and  subsequent  arrival. 

Two  bo3"s,  of  about  the  ages  of  eight  and  ten,  were 
seated  upon  their  haunches  near  it,  watching  its  growing 
power,  and  adding  dry  fragments  of  fuel  as  occasion, 
called  for.  Like  those  who  accompanied  us,  they  were 
dressed  in  tanned  (?)  skins,  with  the  hair  inside,  and, 
though  of  very  small  stature,  were  still  rigged  in  every 
respect  like  their  more  elderly  companions :  they  even 
had  the  two  knives  stuck  in  sockets  worked  in  their 
trousers  below  the  knee. 

We  soon  found  that  we  were  in  the  house  of  the  man 
of  the  smooth-bore  rifle,  and  that  these  little  fellows 
were  his  youngest  children,  while  the  other  two  whom 
we  had  first  met  were  his  elder  ones, —  the  four  con- 
stituting the  male  portion  of  his  family.  Where  were 
the  fair  sex, —  those  fireside-ornaments?  We  looked 
around  and  asked  in  vain, — the  only  satisfaction  we 
obtained  being  a  wave  of  the  headman's  hand  toward 
the  mountains ;  and  this  we  took  to  infer  that  they 
had  been  sent  back  into  the  country  for  safe-keeping. 

As  the  fire  now  blazed  up  brightly  and  lit  up  the 
gloomy  recesses  of  the  extensive  apartment  with  its 
uncertain  light,  we  made  the  discovery  that  there  were 
two   rooms  in  one;    that  is,  the  fire  was   built  in  the 


THE    INSIDE    OF   THE    HEADMAN'S    HOUSE.  351 

centre  of  a  circle  of  some  twenty  feet  diameter,  which 
put  me  very  much  in  mind  of  the  ring  of  a  circus,  the 
circumference  of  said  circle  being  marked  by  upright 
posts  that  reached  to  and  supported  the  ceiling.  These 
posts  were  planted  about  four  feet  apart,  and  between 
them  and  the  earthen  sides  of  the  house  there  was  a 
raised  platform  of  whale-ribs,  rough  planks,  flat  pieces 
of  drift-w^ood,  &c.,  over  which  were  spread  any  number 
of  bear-  and  deer-skins,  upon  which  we  -were  more  than 
once  invited  to  recline;  but,  as  there  were  strong  in- 
dications of  the  existence  of  vermin  within  their  hairy 
depths,  we  confined  ourselves  to  seats  on  the  edge  of 
the  platform,  which  latter,  being  about  a  foot  high, 
made  a  very  comfortable  seat  as  long  as  we  kept  our 
feet  upon  the  earthen  flooring  of  "the  ring." 

The  posts  to  which  were  nailed  the  inner  ends  of  the 
scantling  upon  which  the  platform  was  laid  were  rough 
logs  from  the  dwarfed  arctic  pine,  with  the  bark  peeled 
oflT  and  the  knots  smoothed  away  with  a  knife ;  but  they 
had  been  smoked  for  so  long  a  time,  and  taken  hold  of 
by  so  many  greasy  hands,  and  rubbed  against  by  so 
many  greasy  clothes,  that  they  had  become  as  black 
and  polished  as  so  many  pieces  of  ebony. 

After  we  had  been  seated  a  few^  minutes  in  this 
singular  and  uninviting  habitation,  the  smoke  began 
to  get  so  thick  as  to  cause  us  to  rub  our  eyes  and  finally 
to  weep  outright;  which  the  headman  perceiving,  he 
spoke  a  few  words  to  one  of  his  sons,  who  went  and 
opened  the  door  at  the  outer  end  of  the  long  passage, 
when  in  less  than  a  minute  our  enemy  vanished  through 
the  aperture.     The  door  was  again  closed,  the  passing 


352  THE    REMNANT   OF  THE    POPULATION. 

current  of  air  died  a  natural  death,  and  tlie  fire  again 
began  to  -warm  the  chilled  atmosphere  and  to  fill  the 
room  once  more  with  smoke.  They  had  to  resort  to  the 
process  of  opening  the  door  about  every  fifteen  minutes 
after  that;  and  upon  one  occasion  they  not  only  ad- 
mitted a  relieving  current  of  air,  but  also  the  remnant 
of  the  then  population  of  the  village,  consisting  of  two 
men  and  one  small  boy,  who  shook  hands  with  us  most 
affectionately,  and  pronounced  the  word  "  brandy"  several 
times  with  remarkable  aptitude,  while  with  their  hands 
and  mouths  they  went  through  the  process  of  drinking 
with  equal  success.  There  was  no  mistaking  their 
meaning,  and  so  the  doctor  produced  a  quart-bottle 
of  French  punch  and  gave  them  a  pretty  stiff  horn  all 
round.  This  they  enjoyed  excessively,  even  the  three 
small  boys  crowding  around  to  share  in  the  unusual 
treat. 

The  docter,  however,  did  not  relish  the  idea  of  giving 
strong  drink  to  such  small  men,  and  told  their  father  as 
much  by  signs ;  but  the  latter  only  laughed,  and  motioned 
him  to  let  him  have  the  bottle  and  cup  a  moment,  when 
he  poured  out  about  a  gill  for  each,  and  slapped  them 
on  the  back  as  they  coughed  over  its  unexpected  strength. 
Then  he  poured  out  all  that  was  left,  drank  it  down  like 
water,  and  pitched  the  empty  bottle  to  one  of  his  still- 
choking  offspring,  who  stowed  it  away  in  a  mysterious 
corner  for  future  use.  It  was  subsequently  a  source 
of  great  surprise  to  see  how  much  those  people  could 
drink  and  still  not  appear  the  worse  for  it.  This  head- 
man, in  particular,  I  once  saw  drink  a  quart-bottle  of 
gin  in  less  than  half  an  hour,  and  the  only  difterence 


THEY    GET   READY  FOR    DINNER.  353 

it  made  in  him  was  that  he  became  more  rough  iu  his 
manner  toward  those  under  him  and  slightly  unsteady 
in  his  gait.  I  tried  to  imagine  how  it  was  that  they 
could  drink  so  much  without  being  made  intoxicated, 
and  could  only  attribute  it  to  the  greasy  nature  of  their 
food  and  to  the  excessive  cold  of  their  winters,  which 
call  for  a  vast  amount  of  animal  heat. 

Soon  after  the  entrance  of  the  "remnant  of  the  popu- 
lation," and  immediately  following  the  destruction  of  the 
bottle  of  punch,  the  headman  made  signs  that  he  was 
about  to  cook  us  some  dinner;  and,  as  we  were  both 
hungry  and  curious  to  see  their  mode  of  cooking,  we  ex- 
pressed ourselves  highly  delighted  at  his  hospitality.  I 
don't  suppose,  however,  that  any  of  us  thought  for  a  mo- 
ment of  eating  any  thing  he  might  get  up,  though  we  iccre 
quite  hungry ;  for  every  thing  around  us  looked  so  greasy 
and  dirty  that  it  was  hard  to  imagine  any  thing  about  the 
premises  capable  of  being  cleaned. 

There  was  a  fine  fire  under  way  by  this  time ;  and  the 
first  thing  they  did  was  to  plant  a  tripod-like  structure 
over  it,  from  the  vertex  of  which  hung  a  long  iron  pot- 
hook, from  which,  in  turn,  was  evidently  to  be  suspended 
some  as  yet  unseen  vessel.  One  of  the  small  boys  next 
rummaged  this  unseen  vessel  out  of  the  same  mysterious 
corner  into  which  the  empty  bottle  had  disappeared, 
when,  to  our  surprise,  it  proved  to  be  a  very  civilized- 
looking  iron  pot,  which  the  young  explorer  at  once 
commenced  to  clean  with  great  energy.  This  cleaning 
he  accomplished  through  the  instrumentality  of  quantities 
of  fresh  water,  several  handfuls  of  sand,  and  three  or  four 

bunches  of  clean,  dry  grass;  and  when  he  gave  it  its  last 

23 


354  WE    CONCLUDE   TO    EAT. 

rinsing  out  the  pot  was  ccidenilij  dean :  tliere  was  no  fault 
to  be  found  with  it.  I  began  to  think  that  some  of  us 
might  partake  of  their  cooking,  after  alL 

We  asked  them  where  they  had  got  their  pot  from,  and 
were  told  that  a  whale-ship  had  presented  it  to  them 
many  years  back  in  exchange  for  a  mountain-elk  that 
they  had  carried  on  board,  and  that  they  would  like  to 
carry  another  mountain-elk  on  board  of  a  ship  and  bring 
another  pot  on  shore.  So  we  entered  into  such  an  agree- 
ment, to  our  mutual  joy. 

Their  next  proceeding  was  to  haul  several  halves  of 
fine-looking  salmon  out  of  a  greasy-looking  sealskin  bag, 
which  they  cut  into  pieces  as  long  as  one's  hand,  on  a 
clean  piece  of  board,  washed  well  in  a  pail  of  water, 
packed  into  the  pot,  added  a  pint  or  so  of  water,  sprinkled 
a  little  salt  over  all,  (they  collect  salt  from  crevices  in  the 
rocks  along  the  sea-shore  at  low-water  and  after  a  hot 
sun  has  shone  for  some  hours,)  put  on  the  broken  lid, 
and  finally  hung  it  on  the  pot-hook,  where  it  soon  began 
to  simmer  away  in  fine  style  and  give  forth  an  odour 
that  was  any  thing  but  unpleasant.  The  fact  of  the  fish 
having  been  taken  from  a  greasy-looking  sealskin  bag 
was  the  only  drawback  to  our  appetite;  and  that  was 
speedily  overcome,  for  we  had  walked  over  many  heavy 
miles,  and  it  was  long  past  our  usual  dinner-hour. 

When  the  headman,  therefore,  took  half  of  the  lid  oflf 
and  picked  out  a  piece  for  each  one,  which  he  put  upon 
fragments  of  the  "ISTew  York  Herald"  that  one  of  us  had 
carried  along,  we  all  held  out  our  hands  as  he  passed 
around,  and  fell  to  work, — cautiously  at  first,  but,  finally, 
with  a  most  hearty  will.      The   natives,  too,  attacking 


THE   HEADMAN  AGAIN   GETS    EXCITED.  35o 

what  was  left  in  the  pot  with  theii'  knives,  fingers,  and 
teeth,  the  "several  halves  of  tine-looking  smoked  sal- 
mon" were  soon  among  "the  things  that  were;"  and, 
another  bottle  of  punch  being  opened  and  pipes  lit,  we 
began  to  enjoy  ourselves,  while  thus  helping  the  expiring 
fire  to  get  up  the  usual  amount  of  smoke. 

We  all  had  our  own  pipes,  fortunately,  we  having 
carried  some  that  we  had  got  in  Japan,  and  our  hosts 
having  theirs,  which  had  been  obtained  through  the 
Russians.  Their  tobacco,  however,  was  running  alarm- 
ingly short,  it  seems;  and  I  never  saw  men  indulge  in 
more  extravagant  demonstrations  of  joy  than  they  did 
when  Hartman  pulled  out  a  pound-plug  and  told  them 
that  he  would  not  only  give  them  an  iron  pot,  but  that 
he  would  fill  it  with  similar  pieces,  in  return  for  one  of 
their  long-talked-of  mountain-elks. 

The  headman,  immediately  after  regaining  a  state  of 
comparative  composure,  reached  for  his  gun,  took  aim  at 
an  imaginary  elk,  and  clucked  his  tongue,  as  much  as  to 
say,  "  Wait  until  I  get  a  chance :  won't  I  fetch  one  down  ?" 
after  which  he  replaced  it  carefully  and  intimated  his 
readiness  for  another  drink.  In  this  way  we  rested  our- 
selves and  smoked  away  for  an  hour  or  more;  when, 
after  bartering  a  few  pieces  of  tobacco  and  the  second 
empty  bottle  for  several  of  the  cleanest-looking  skins,  we 
passed  again  through  the  long  passage-way  into  the  open 
air,  and,  accompanied  by  our  hosts,  crossed  the  mud-flat 
in  advance  of  the  rising  tide,  and  reached  our  friends  at 
the  coal-mine  just  as  they  were  about  to  return  on  board 
for  the  night.  We  therefore  rewarmed  ourselves  at  their 
blazing  fire,  reshouldered  our  guns,  and  skins,  and  ac- 


356  HARD    SERVICE   FOR   BOATS. 

companied  them  along  the  beach  to  meet  a  boat  that  was 
coming  up  with  the  tide  to  take  us  on  board. 

We  soon  reached  her,  when  our  native  friends  bade  us 
farewell,  with  the  promise  to  visit  us  on  board  and  to 
bring  with  them  one  of  their  famous  elk,  the  quality  of 
whose  meat  we  were  anxious  to  compare  with  our  usual 
diet  of  "salt  junk"  and  sour  bread.  It  is  useless,  I  sup- 
pose, to  repeat  "the  old  story:" — how  they  got  their  iron 
pot  stuck  fall  of  plugs  of  tobacco,  how  we  continued  to 
luxuriate  upon  salt  junk  and  sour  bread,  and  how  the  elk 
continued  his  leaps  from  crag  to  crag  to  the  imminent 
terror  of  imaginary  beholders. 

The  day  following  this  ramble,  Lawton  reported  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  coal  as  being  ready  for  embarkation, 
and  "all  hands"  and  boats  were  consequently  devoted  to 
that  work.  We  soon  found  it  to  be  any  thing  but  a 
pleasant  job,  however ;  for,  having  to  carry  the  boats  to 
the  very  foot  of  the  coal-stratum  in  order  to  fill  them,  and 
then  to  pull  back  over  the  mud-flat  to  deep  water,  the 
ebb-tide  often  got  the  start  of  us,  and  left  us  sprinkled 
about  over  said  flat,  sometimes  with  full  boats,  sometimes 
with  empty  ones,  and  always  with  the  pleasant  alternative 
of  remaining  in  the  boats  to  be  half  frozen,  or  of  walk- 
ing through  the  cold  mud  to  the  distant  fire.  Moreover, 
there  was  all  this  time  lost,  besides  straining  the  boats  if 
they  happened  to  be  loaded  when  thus  left  "high  and 
dry ;"  and  our  boats  were  valuable  in  that  out-of-the-waj'' 
part  of  the  world,  more  particularly  as  every  day  that 
passed  only  served  to  strengthen  our  minds  in  the  con- 
viction that  the  "  old  John"  herself  was  destined  to  play 
us  a  trick  before  we  could  get  her  safely  into  San  Fran- 


HOW   WE    CHANGE   DAY   INTO   NIGHT.  357 

Cisco.  We  were  therefore  naturally  disposed  to  be  tender 
with  them,  so  that  we  should  have  something  to  depend 
upon  when  our  dilapidated  old  craft  should  "  turn  turtle," 
drift  upon  a  lee  shore,  founder  in  a  sea-way,  or  indulge 
in  any  similar  species  of  recreation. 

It  was  soon  determined,  therefore,  that  some  more  sum- 
mary process  would  have  to  be  resorted  to  ;  for  under  the 
first  arrangement  we  had  to  pull  so  far  with  our  loaded  boats 
before  reaching  the  ship,  that,  by  the  time  their  coal  could 
be  hoisted  on  board  and  they  sent  back,  the  tide  would 
be  falling,  and  they  consequently  likely  to  ground  on  the 
flat  before  getting  half-way  to  the  mine.  It  was  there- 
fore thought  best  to  get  the  ship  herself  under  way  every 
morning  at  daylight  and  run  into  as  little  as  three 
fathoms,  hovering  off  the  edge  of  the  mud-flat  as  long  as 
there  was  water  enough  for  the  boats  to  pass  back  and 
forth,  and  then  to  return  to  the  anchorage  under  Shag 
Rock  until  the  rising  of  the  next  tide  should  allow  them 
to  move  over  it  again. 

This  apparently-rational  course  had  no  sooner  been 
determined  upon  than  it  became  evident  that  we  would 
have  to  consult  the  state  of  the  tides  in  the  selection  of 
our  working-hours ;  and  so,  as  it  was  mostly  low-water 
during  the  days,  and  the  reverse  at  night,  we  capsized 
our  habits  of  life  and  began  to  sleep  during  the  former 
and  to  eat  and  work  during  the  latter.  Fortunately,  dark- 
ness was  not  of  long  duration,  as  the  twilight  lingered 
until  near  eleven  o'clock  and  the  early  dawn  began  to 
show  itself  about  three  hours  later.  It  was,  nevertheless, 
very  trying  to  both  officers  and  men ;  and,  when  at  the  end 
of  five  days  the  coal-bunkers  were  proclaimed  full  and 


358       WE    TRY   TO   BRIBE   THE    "ENTIRE    POPULATION." 

the  boats  had  been  hoisted  in,  the  captain  looked  around 
upon  his  exhausted  ship's  companj^,  and  caused  the  word 
to  be  passed  that  the  next  twenty-four  hours  would  be 
devoted  to  a  resting-spell,  instead  of  to  the  continuation 
of  the  survey,  as  we  had  all  feared. 

As  I  looked  around  the  decks  and  saw  the  weather- 
beaten  frame  of  the  old  forecastleman  and  the  half-de- 
veloped form  of  the  youthful  "ship's  boy"  stretched  side 
by  side  in  the  heavy  sleep  of  protracted  toil,  I  could  not 
but  rejoice  over  the  order  which  had  granted  such  neces- 
sary repose. 

We  had  found  little  or  no  difficulty  in  getting  out  the 
coal  ready  for  shipment;  but  our  boats  were  so  small, 
and  the  tides  so  uncertain,  that  we  had  been  induced  to 
press  into  service  the  headman  of  the  village,  its  "  entire 
population,"  and  a  huge  skin  boat  of  theirs,  which,  with 
proper  management,  might  have  been  made  to  carry  at  a 
single  load  as  much  as  all  of  our  boats  put  together ;  but, 
after  the  first  trip,  the  old  fellow  imagined  that  the  coal 
would  soon  cut  through  her  bottom,  and  consequently 
refused  to  lend  her  any  more.  We  tried  to  bribe  him  by 
the  ofibr  of  tobacco  by  the  pound,  and  even  did  violence 
to  our  ideas  of  right  and  wrong  by  adding  a  bottle  of 
brandy ;  but  he  made  signs  that  their  boat  and  harpoons 
were  their  only  means  of  killing  seal, — the  meat  of  which 
is  their  chief  article  of  food, — and  we,  of  course,  could 
not  think  of  forcing  him  to  hire  her  against  his  will.  We 
had  therefore  to  fall  back  upon  our  own  boats,  in  con- 
sequence of  which  the  work  progressed  slowly  and 
laboriously. 


A    RARE    OLD    BOAT.  359 

This  boat,  which  the  headman  was  so  fearful  of 
injuring,  is  well  worthy  of  a  passing  notice. 

In  the  first  place,  she  was  built  entirely  of  the  skins  of 
wild  animals,  and  long,  withe-like  poles, — the  former 
being  sewed  together  with  water-proof  stitches,  while 
the  latter  were  joined  to  each  other,  and  twisted,  and 
bent,  and  retwisted,  and  doubled  back,  and  finally  tied 
into  something  that  looked  very  much  like  the  frame  of 
an  ordinary  boat  that  is  ready  for  planking.  In  sewing 
these  skins  together  they  used  sharpened  pieces  of  bone 
for  needles,  and  fibres  of  the  sinews  of  wild  animals 
for  thread ;  and  the  regularity  of  the  stitches  thus  made 
was  really  astonishing.  When  they  had  thus  connected 
together  some  forty  or  fifty  skins  in  one  immense  sheet, 
they  encased  the  frame  in  it,  and  allowed  it  to  dry ;  and, 
in  drying,  it  hardened  like  raw  hide ;  after  which,  they 
o;ave  us  to  understand  that  it  never  became  loose  or  soft 
any  more  as  long  as  they  took  proper  care  of  it.  Of 
course,  that  part  forming  the  bottom  of  the  boat  became 
soft  after  she  had  been  in  the  water  any  length  of  time  ; 
but  that  did  not  matter,  as  they  stepped  upon  the  withes 
when  moving  about  in  her. 

This  particular  boat  was  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  in 
length,  some  seven  or  eight  in  breadth,  drew  only  about 
an  inch  of  water  when  no  one  was  in  her,  and  carried 
her  gunwales  some  three  or  four  feet  out  of  the  water. 
Singular  to  say,  she  did  not  seem  at  all  "  top-hea\';)^"  A 
dozen  or  more  two-inch  poles  that  were  lashed  from  gun- 
wale to  gunwale  were  the  only  things  in  the  shape  of 
seats  that  she  offered;  and  on  these  sat  the  oarsmen, 
having  under  them  a  thick  piece  of  bear-skin  to  guard 


360  HARTMAN   AND    MYSELF   FEEL   INSECURE. 

against  the  otherwise  ahnost  certain  caudal  irritation. 
The  headman  himself  found  a  similarly-dangerous  seat 
on  either  quarter  while  guiding  her  course  with  a  long 
and  trailing  oar.  She  floated  on  the  water  with  the 
lightness  of  a  distended  bladder,  and  had  a  most  singular 
way  of  twisting  herself  about,  bending  her  long  back 
over  the  short  seas,  seeming  to  be  giving  away  under 
one's  foot,  &c.  &c.,  and  altogether  imparting  a  feeling  of 
unpleasant  insecurity. 

Upon  one  occasion,  Hartman  and  myself  were  anxious 
to  go  on  shore,  while  there  was  but  one  of  the  ship's 
boats  alongside,  and  the  headman,  noticing  our  dis- 
appointment,— for  we  could  not  leave  the  ship  without 
any  boat  for  fear  of  accident,  (a  man  falling  overboard,  or 
something  of  that  sort,) — made  signs  to  the  effect  that  if 
we  would  get  into  his  with  a  bottle  of  brandy  in  our 
pocket  he  would  give  us  a  passage  :  so  we  provided  our- 
selves accordingly  and  stepped  over  the  side.  There  was 
no  wind  blowing  at  the  time,  but  there  was  still  the  same 
old  swell  setting  in  through  the  channel,  and,  as  we  rode 
lightly  over  them,  she  felt  to  us,  who  were  accustomed  to 
our  ungiving  boats,  as  if  she  would  break  her  back  at 
every  jump.  She  would  bend  as  much  as  fifteen  or 
twenty  degrees;  and,  if  you  happened  to  step  anywhere 
save  on  one  of  the  withe-like  timbers,  the  softened  skin 
would  sink  under  the  foot  and  cause  you  to  catch  for  the 
gunwale  under  the  suddenness  of  the  impression  that 
you  had  found  a  hole  and  were  about  to  try  the  depth  of 
the  water.  Then,  her  motion  was  so  supple  and  snake- 
like that  one  could  not  for  some  time  rid  himself  of  the 
idea  that  "something  was  wrong,"  and  that  it  behooved 


THE    HEADMAN   LOOKS    OUT   FOR    "NO.  1."  361 

him  to  keep  a  sharp  look-out.  Altogether,  she  was  a 
most  singular  specimen  of  naval  architecture, — almost  as 
singular  as  the  "  old  John"  herself. 

At  length  we  found  ourselves  safely  on  shore,  ^vith  the 
headman  in  a  fine  flow  of  spirits,  and  the  bottle  half 
empty.  He  had  attacked  it  at  almost  every  stroke  of  the 
oars,  refusing  to  give  his  companions  even  a  single  taste : 
he  was  evidently  a  very  selfish  old  fellow,  and  one  who 
knew  how  to  keep  those  under  him  at  a  distance.  So 
much  for  the  headman  and  his  village.  And  now  I  will 
say  a  few  words  about  this  coal,  relate  an  adventure 
which  several  of  us  met  with  quite  unexpectedly,  and 
then  leave  Kamtschatka  for  the  eastern  coast  of  Siberia, 
the  western  boundary  of  the  Okotsk  Sea. 

The  importance  of  this  combustible  to  the  world  at 
large  has  been  so  fully  demonstrated  within  the  last  few 
years,  that  its  discovery  in  unknown  localities  must  ever 
be  a  source  of  interest  to  nine  people  out  of  ten.  I  shall 
stop  in  my  narrative  for  a  moment,  therefore,  to  mention 
a  few  facts  in  regard  to  this  which  we  discovered  along 
the  wilds  of  Kamtschatka.  Most  of  that  which  came 
under  our  inspection  was  what  is  understood  by  "  surface- 
coal  ;"  but  the  last  that  we  took  on  board  came  from  a 
very  fair  depth,  and  looked  as  bright,  and  hard,  and  glit- 
tering, as  the  best  anthracite.  It  was  semi-bituminous, 
of  several  degrees  of  excellence,  and  burned  with  a  bright 
blue  flame,  emitting  little  or  no  smell  of  sulphur,  giving 
very  little  smoke  for  bituminous  coal,  and  leaving  few 
cinders  and  ashes.  Much  of  it,  upon  being  broken  open, 
was  found  to  contain  a  bright  substance  resembling 
amber,  pieces  of  which,  as  large  as  a  large   buckshot, 


362  THE   GOVERNMENT   EXPECTS   TOO    MUCH. 

often  fell  out  when  it  was  thus  fractured :  as  a  general 
thing,  however,  it  prevailed  in  the  shape  of  veins  of 
greater  or  less  extent. 

This  bright  substance  we  took  to  be  pyrites ;  but 
whether  the  sulphuret  of  iron,  copper,  cobalt,  or  nickel, 
I  was  not  sufficiently  versed  in  mineralogy  to  determine. 
And  here  I  must  stop  to  ask  the  following  question : — 
"  Would  it  not  have  been  worth  the  while  of  the  Govern- 
ment to  have  offered  a  liberal  salary — say  three  or  four 
thousand  dollars  a  year — to  men  of  fair  proficiency  in  the 
various  branches,  and  thus  obtained,  as  our  '  right-hand 
men,'  persons  who  would  have  been  prepared  at  the  time 
to  take  advantage  of,  and  to  explain  and  note  for  future 
investigation,  the  various  freaks  of  nature  which  daily 
crossed  our  path  in  those  unfrequented  parts  of  the 
world?"  "We  often  felt  the  want  of  an  able  mineralo- 
gist in  particular ;  but  it  seems  that  the  Government  ex- 
pected its  officers — men  whose  whole  lives  have  been 
spent  upon  the  sea — to  possess  a  sufficient  "smattering" 
of  all  sciences  to  answer  the  purpose.  But  to  return  to 
the  coal.  We  were  sorry  to  meet  with  this  sulphuret,  as 
that  in  which  it  is  found  is  more  or  less  liable  to  spon- 
taneous combustion,  and  we  had  no  idea  of  arraying 
another  of  the  elements  against  the  slim  chance  which 
the  "old  John"  held  out  of  ever  landing  us  safely  in 
San  Francisco.  We  already  had  enough  fire  in  the  fur- 
naces, without  bringing  any  more  on  board  in  a  latent 
state. 

I  have  said  that  this  coal  burned  with  a  bright  blue 
flame,  that  it  gave  out  little  or  no  sulphur,  made  very 
little  smoke,  and  left  few  ashes ;  and  such  was  actually 


NATURE   OF   THE   COAL,  363 

the  case  when  it  was  piled  on  the  blazing  fire  that  kept 
us  warm  while  digging  it  out ;  but,  as  soon  as  it  was  tried 
in  our  small-flue  furnaces,  its  nature  seemed  to  undergo 
an  entire  change.  Instead  of  burning  brightly,  it  smoked, 
and  smothered,  and  ran  into  clinker,  and  gave  forth  sul- 
phur in  a  most  provoking  and  choking  manner,  the  con- 
sequence of  which  was  that  it  got  up  steam  very  slowly, 
kept  it  up  very  poorly,  choked  the  flues  with  soot  so  as 
to  force  us  to  "haul  fires"  about  every  six  hours  to  clear 
them,  and  accomplished  generally  a  vast  deal  that  was 
provoking  to  our  tempers,  injurious  to  the  health  of  the 
firemen,  and  detrimental  to  the  work  of  the  Expedition. 

As  far  as  our  experience  extended,  therefore,  we  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  it  would  never  be  adapted  to  burn- 
ing in  small-flue  boilers,  that  it  might  answer  well  in  fur- 
naces intended  for  burning  soft  coal,  and  that  it  un- 
doubtedly did  burn  well  in  the  open  air  as  an  ordinary 
fire  and  in  a  blacksmith's  forge.  And  now  for  the  ad- 
venture which  several  of  us  encountered  so  unexpectedly. 

We  had  been  on  shore,  hunting  all  day,  and  the  ofiicer 
of  the  deck  had  sent  a  boat  for  us  toward  evening  with 
orders  to  await  our  return  and  bring  us  on  board.  The 
firemen  and  boat's  crews,  having  worked  at  the  coal  as 
long  as  the  tide  would  permit,  had  returned  on  board 
shortly  after  noon  for  the  purpose  of  getting  a  few  hours' 
rest  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  next  tide.  Now,  the 
coxswain  of  our  boat,  instead  of  keeping  her  at  the  end 
of  the  promontory,  where  there  was  always  water  enough 
to  float  her,  had  pulled  in  over  the  mud-flat  and  hauled 
her  up  on  the  beach  about  half-way  between  that  point 
and  the  coal-mine,  where  he  left  her,  and,  with  the  rest 


364  THE  DOCTOR  GETS  EXCITED. 

of  the  crew,  walked  a  mile  or  more  along  the  boggy 
beach  to  the  expiring  fire,  which  had  been  left  by  the 
firemen  when  they  returned  on  board.  There  they  piled 
on  a  fresh  supply  of  coal,  and,  seating  themselves  around 
it,  began  smoking  their  pipes,  spinning  yarns,  and 
making  themselves  as  generally  comfortable  as  the  cold 
air  and  their  wet  feet  would  allow  them  to.  And  this 
was  the  state  of  aifairs  when  our  party  arrived  and 
asked, — 

"Well,  boys,  where's  the  boat?" 

"Down  along  the  beach,  sir!"  said  the  guilty-feeling 
coxswain,  as  he  jumped  to  his  feet  and  started  off  toward 
her.  "We  hauled  her  up  nicely  clear  of  the  water  before 
we  came  up,  sir,  and  buried  the  anchor  in  the  sand:  she 
can't  well  get  away." 

"I  suppose  not,"  I  replied.  "Why  didn't  you  stop  at 
the  point,  or  leave  half  of  the  crew  in  her  to  keep  her 
afloat  ?  There  is  a  mile  or  more  of  mud  between  her  and 
the  water  by  this  time."  And  such  really  proved  to  be 
the  case ;  for,  when  we  had  turned  a  point  and  got  her  in 
view,  we  saw  the  whole  flat  before  us  without  a  sign  of 
water  near  it,  thus  finding  ourselves  under  the  necessity 
of  waiting  for  the  next  tide, — three  or  four  long,  inactive 
hours  to  be  passed  in  the  cold  air,  with  our  wearied  limbs 
and  empty  stomachs  as  our  only  companions.  The  idea 
of  dragging  the  boat  over  a  half-mile  of  mud  and  rocks 
to  the  point  was  of  course  out  of  the  question. 

"A  stupid  piece  of  work  altogether,"  remarked  the 
doctor,  in  an  irritated  voice :  "  it  is  singular  how  many 
jackasses  there  are  in  this  world!" 

At  this  stage  of  the  proceedings  the  coxswain  looked 


WE  IMAGINE  OURSELVES  COMFORTABLE.      365 

more  guilty  than  ever,  and,  to  hide  his  confusion,  sud- 
denly discovered  an  imaginary  coal-vein  in  the  precipit- 
ous side  of  the  mountain  on  our  right. 

"Never  mind  finding  any  more  coal,"  I  observed: 
"  what  I  want  you  to  do  now  is  to  take  two  of  the  crew 
with  you  and  go  and  stay  by  the  boat  until  the  tide  rises, 
then  bring  her  up  along  the  beach  as  the  water  deepens. 
The  rest  of  us  will  go  back  by  the  fire  until  then,  and 
me,et-you  as  you  come  up."  So  we  saw  him  fairly  started 
for  the  boat,  and  then  retraced  our  steps  to  the  fire,  where 
we  piled  on  more  coal,  gathered  closely  around  it,  and 
tried  to  imagine  ourselves  in  a  very  comfortable  situation. 

By-and-by,  as  we  were  thus  seated  around  the  blazing 
pile,  limbs  began  to  feel  less  weary  under  the  influence  of 
returning  warmth,  eyes  began  to  grow  heavy  in  about 
the  same  proportion,  heads  began  to  bob  spasmodically 
from  side  to  side,  and  even  the  breathing  of  some  became 

heavy  and  regular.     Kot  a  word  had  been  spoken  for 

I  can't  say  how  long;  for  mine  was  one  of  those  bob- 
bing heads,  and  time  had  assumed  a  most  misty  appear- 
ance in  its  drowsy  chambers. 

Suddenly  we  were  aroused  by  shouts  away  down  the 
beach ;  and,  springing  to  our  feet,  we  found  that  night  was 
fast  closing  around  us,  that  the  fire  had  burned  quite  low, 
and  that  hurried  feet  were  approaching  us  from  the  direc- 
tion of  the  boat.  Excited  voices,  too,  were  borne  to  us 
upon  the  damp  night-air,  telling  of  something  wrong 
that  had  occurred,  and  serving  to  awaken  us  most  effec- 
tually. The  next  moment  the  breathless  coxswain  and 
liis  two  companions  burst  around  a  near  point,  running 


-366  VEL  !    VEL  !    VEL  !    VOT   ISH    IT  ?    VOT   ISH  IT  ? 

at  full  speed  and  exclaiming,  at  the  top  of  their  voices, — 
"Come  on,  gentlemen!  come  quick,  doctor!  come  on, 
Mr.  Habersham :  the  tide's  a  risin'  fast,  and  we've  come 
to  let  you  know!" 

I  don't  think  I  ever  felt  more  like  knocking  a  man 
down  than  at  that  moment.  The  doctor,  too,  was  so 
furious  that  he  could  only  turn  pale  and  get  off  a  few 
disjointed  remarks  in  regard  to  the  comparative  size  of 
the  world  and  the  number  of  jackasses  which  it  con- 
tained ;  while  Hartman  actually  foamed  at  the  mouth  in 
his  desperate  attempts  to  command  enough  English  to 
convey  his  emotions. 

"What  made  you  leave  the  boat  behind  again?"  I 
asked,  as  they  joined  us. 

"I  wonder  how  many  more  jackasses  there  are  among 
us  ?"  asked  the  doctor :  "  it's  lucky  we're  discovering  new 
islands :  the  old  world  will  soon  be  too  small  to  hold 
you." 

"  Vel !  vel !  vel !  Vot  ish  it?  Vot  ish  it?  Ve  don't  see 
te  boat  yet!  Vere  is  te  boat?"  foamed  Hartman,  with 
angry  volubility. 

To  these  rapid  questions  the  coxswain  and  his  friends 
had  nothing  to  answer.  They  had  been  left  by  the  boat 
with  the  previously-mentioned  orders,  and,  instead  of 
obeying  them,  had  become  frightened  at  the  noise  of  the 
swelling  tide,  and  wasted  precious  time  by  coming  almost 
a  mile  to  tell  us  that  it  was  rising.  And  now  we  were 
left  with  but  one  alternative  :  we  must  either  be  content 
to  remain  where  we  were, — out  of  reach  of  the  water, — 
and  leave  the  boat  to  beat  about  in  the  surf  and  probably 
be  drifted  out  to  sea ;  or  we  must  make  a  run  for  it  and 


WHAT   MUST   WE    DO  ?  367 

try  to  reach  her  before  the  tide  should  rise  high  enough 
to  cover  the  beach  and  drown  all  who  should  not  be  able 
to  swim  back.  "We  had  travelled  up  and  down  that  beach 
both  by  day  and  night,  and  knew  well  enough  that  there 
would  be  no  use  in  trying  to  climb  up  those  steeps — 
almost  perpendicular  walls — when  the  water  should  wash 
us  from  our  feet:  our  only  hope  w^ould  then  be  in  the 
untiring  arm  of  the  practised  swimmer. 

It  was  something  of  more  than  ordinary  importance 
upon  which  we  were  now  called  upon  to  decide ;  and  I  am 
free  to  acknowledge,  as  I  look  back  upon  that  darkening 
night,  that  we  might  have  acted  with  far  more  prudence 
than  we  did.  Still,  when  the  doctor  (?)  cried  out,  "Let  us 
run  for  it !  there  is  yet  time,"  I  stopped  to  think  no  longer, 
but,  dropping  my  gun  on  the  beach  and  telling  one  of 
the  men  to  come  on  with  it  as  fast  as  possible,  started  off 
on  a  full  run  and  w^as  followed  by  the  entire  party. 

And  such  a  run  as  it  w^as !  I  never  engaged  in  any 
thing  approaching  it  before ;  I  hope  never  to  be  engaged 
in  any  thing  similar  again.  "It  vos  fear-/w^,"  as  Hart- 
man  subsequently  expressed  it. 

The  lingering  twilight  of  the  almost  endless  arctic  day 
was  slowly  giving  place  to  the  tardy  night.  The  atmo- 
sphere was  just  cool  enough  to  keep  one  from  getting 
heated  even  by  running  for  life,  and  the  unpleasant 
"bootjack-mixture"  that  was  constantly  crossing  our 
path  more  than  once  threw  us  down  at  the  imminent  risk 
of  breaking  some  limb  or  even  a  neck.  I  could  hear  the 
increasing  surge  of  the  flood-tide  as  it  rolled  toward  us, 
and  the  decreasing  noise  of  my  companions  as  they  hur- 
ried after  me :   I  was  evidently  distancing  them  slowly 


368  A   GHASTLY  ATTEMPT   AT   A    SMILE. 

and  Rearing  the  tide-rip  rapidly.  I  was  either  the  worst- 
scared  man  of  the  party,  or  was  enabled  to  outstrip  them 
from  the  fact  of  having  no  gun  to  retard  me;  and  I 
remember  this  thought  flashing  through  my  mind  and 
causing:  me  to  smile  as  I  looked  ahead  to  the  next  break- 
fast-table  and  heard  Hartman  say,  "  Oh !  but  you  should 
see  H run :  zat  vos  te  best  of  it  all." 

I  heard  this  speech  in  the  future,  I  say,  and  smiled; 
but  it  was  doubtless  a  most  ghastly  attempt.  At  any 
rate,  it  was  of  but  short  duration :  it  fled  before  the 
increasing  roar  of  the  advancing  tide,  and  left  me  with 
a  feeling  of  startled  alarm  that  fortunately  but  added 
to  my  speed.  I  think  now  that  it  was  even  more  than 
a  "feeling  of  startled  alarm ;"  I  think  it  was  much  more 
like  a  very  bad  scare, — the  feeling  which  possessed  me 
as  my  left  foot  just  then  sunk  into  a  streak  of  "the 
mixture"  and  caused  me  to  measure  my  length  on  what 
fortunately  proved  to  be  good  hard  sand.  A  few  bruises 
were  nothing;  but  it  would  have  been  decidedly  un- 
pleasant to  have  found  myself  sticking  up  upon  "all 
fours,"  as  had  been  the  case  with  the  flreman  who 
followed  his  shovel  down  the  embankment. 

The  particular  streak  over  which  I  now  fell  was 
fortunately  a  narrow  one,  and  my  momentum  was 
sufiicient  to  carry  me  over  it.  After  picking  myself 
up,  therefore,  I  took  time  to  be  thankful  for  this  as 
well  as  to  rub  my  bruised  elbows,  after  which  I  con- 
tinued the  race  with  any  thing  but  decreased  speed. 
There  were  two  high  points  between  our  starting-point 
and  the  boat,  that  ran  down  across  the  beach  to  about 
half-tide  mark,  and  I  had  now  arrived  at  the  first  of 


A  TERRIBLE   RACE.  369 

these  just  as  the  advancing  ripple  commenced  to  wash 
it.  Doubling  it  at  full  speed,  and  with  the  water  al- 
ready ankle-deep,  I  shouted  to  those  behind,  "Bear  a 
hand!  bear  a  hand!"  and  dashed  along  the  next  stretch 
of  beach  to  gain  the  last  point. 

About  this  time  I  began  to  feel  a  little  the  worse 
for  exercise.  My  skin  was  hot  and  drj',  my  knees  de- 
cidedly weaker  than  at  first,  while  my  throat  and  chest 
actually  burned  under  the  constant  friction  of  rapid  and 
heavy  breathing.  My  sight,  too,  was  dimmed  by  the 
extreme  exertion,  and  a  dizzy  feeling  about  the  brain 
advised  me  to  slacken  my  pace  or  risk  a  probable  fall. 
Still,  knowing  that  every  thing  now  depended  on  some  one 
reaching  the  boat  before  she  icas  ^cashed  away,  and  knowing 
also  that  time  was  short  and  that  I  was  the  nearest  one 
to  her,  I  was  urged  to  push  ahead  at  every  risk.  I  felt 
that,  if  I  could  but  weather  this  last  point,  all  would  be 
well;  for  the  boat  lay  just  beyond  it,  and  I  could  easily 
get  into  her  and  return  for  my  companions.  It  was 
this  conviction  which,  combined  with  my  "badly-scared" 
condition,  served  to  keep  me  up  to  speed,  while  I  felt 
every  moment  more  and  more  like  fainting. 

At  times  I  thought  of  giving  out  in  spite  of  all  this ; 
but  then  I  cast  my  eyes  from  the  inclined,  wedge-like 
surface  of  the  foaming  waters  to  the  dark  outlines  of 
the  point,  which  was  now  only  a  few  hundred  yards 
ahead,  and,  reflecting  that  I  had  only  to  round  the 
latter  and  grasp  the  boat's  gunwale,  straightened  up 
nervously  and  threw  myself  bodily  toward  it,  though 
my  knees  did  tremble,  my  feet  come  down  rather  wildly, 

24 


370  RAPID    RISING    or    THE   TIDE. 

and  my  sight  grow  dimmer  and  more  dim  under  such 
a  combination  of  excitement,  fear,  and  exertion. 

Finally  it  was  reached;  and,  as  I  waded  heavily  around 
it  through  the  knee-deep  water  that  broke  against  its 
rugged  front,  I  saw  the  boat  rolling  from  bilge  to  bilge 
in  the  rising  surf  a  few  yards  ahead, —  a  sight  which 
so  enlivened  me  as  to  cause  the  expenditure  of  most 
of  my  remaining  breath  in  an  encouraging  shout  to 
those  who  followed.  As  it  turned  out,  I  had  not  arrived 
a  minute  too  soon :  a  few  moments  later  and  she  would 
have  been  afloat,  probably  drifting  out  into  the  bay,  and 
leaving  us  to  swim,  climb  up  the  steep  and  crumbling 
sides  of  the  promontory,  or sink. 

I  staggered  up  to  her  unsteady  side,  and,  grasping 
the  gunwale  with  both  hands,  strove  to  keep  her 
steady ;  but  my  strength  was  all  gone.  I  felt  at  once 
that  I  was  powerless  while  alone,  and  so  contented  my- 
self with  crawling  over  into  the  stern-sheets  and  being 
rolled  from  side  to  side  until  the  lapse  of  about  twenty 
or  thirty  seconds  brought  up  the  rest  of  the  party,  who 
shoved  her  off  into  deep  water.  The  oars  were  now  got 
out,  and,  while  thus  engaged,  we  drifted  by  the  point 
around  which  we  had  so  lately  waded. 

"Put  over  a  boat-hook  and  see  how  deep  the  water 
is,"  said  the  doctor. 

One  of  the  crew  complied,  and  found  four  feet  where 
but  a  minute  before  it  had  been  only  knee-deep.  We 
looked  at  the  hopeless  hill-side,  shuddered,  and  felt — I 
hope — thankful. 

"It's  a  great  pity  there   are   so   many  jackasses  in 


I   RUN   ALSO    MYSELF.  371 

this  world !"  repeated  the   doctor,   as   soou   as  he  had 
sufficiently  recovered  his  breath. 

"Veil,  yes! — great  pity!"  added  Hartman,  spas- 
modically. "I  don't  vant  to  run  ever  so  much  again. 
Bierchaum,  you  run  like  a  great  fel-low;  you  have  a 
great  scare,  I  think,  Bierchaum.  I  run  also  myself." 
And  so  we  pulled  on  board,  the  coxswain  keeping  an 
unusual  silence,  and  all  hands  feeling  most  miserable 
and  used  up.  That  night  we  finished  coaling,  and  the 
next  day  was  one  of  rest. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

WE    ENTER   THE    GULF     OF     PENJINKS   AND     REACH     OCR    HIGHEST    NORTHERN 
LATITUDE,    AFTER    WHICH    WE    RETURN    TO    THE    OKOTSK,    AND    CROSS    OVER 

TO     THE     COAST     OF     SIBERIA WE     NARROWLY     ESCAPE      SHIPWRECK,    AND 

FINALLY    ARRIVE    AT    A    PLACE    CALLED    OLA,  WHERE    WE    ARE    REGALED    BY 
THE    SIGHT    OF   BULLOCKS   AND    THE    TASTE    OF    MILK. 

The  day  after  our  successful  race  against  time  and  a 
flood-tide,  we  once  more  hove  up  the  anchor  and  con- 
tinued our  survey.  We  now,  steering  to  the  northward 
along  the  west  coast  of  Kamtschatka,  entered  the  Gulf 
of  Penjinks,  up  which  we  ran  as  high  as  lat.  61°  20'  N., 
when,  for  want  of  time  and  favourable  weather,  we 
turned  again  to  the  southward,  and  retraced  our  way  as 
far  as  the  edge  of  the  Okotsk  Sea,  when  we  stretched 
across  the  mouth  of  the  double  gulf  for  the  east  coast 
of  "Siberia  the  frozen,"  and,  upon  sighting  this  latter 
during  the  following  day,  recommenced  the  survey. 

We  found  our  newly-discovered  coal  burning  very 
badly.  It  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  we  could 
keep  up  a  moderate  amount  of  steam ;  and,  upon  round- 
ing a  jutting  point  of  land  shortly  after  noon,  we  en- 
countered a  current  against  which  we  could  make  no 
headway :  in  fact,  we  lost  ground  for  some  hours.  The 
captain  therefore  determined  to  commence  the  next 
morning  and  use  our  good  coal  as  long  as  it  lasted,  hoping 
that  at  any  rate  it  would  hold  out  until  we  should  leave 

372 


HOW    LONG    WE    HAVE    TO    SLEEP.  373 

that  region  of  rugged  rocks  and  seven  or  eight  knot 
currents.  It  will  be  seen  how  providential  this  apparently- 
natural  decision  proved  before  the  lapse  of  twenty-four 
hours. 

After  struggling  against  the  current  until  sunset, 
(9  P.M.,)  it  fortunately  slackened  up,  and  we  were  enabled 
to  gain  shelter  in  the  bight  above  the  point  abreast  of 
which  we  had  been  doing  our  best  all  day,  after  Avliich 
we  piped  down  the  hammocks  and  felt  unusually  com- 
fortable with  the  prospect  of  a  quiet  night's  rest  ahead. 

It  was  about  three  hours  after  midnight,  and  yet  the 
arctic  sun  was  already  some  degrees  above  the  eastern 
horizon,  while  the  "old  John,"  as  if  ashamed  of  having 
overslept  herself,  was  running  under  a  full  head  of  steam 
from  the  spot  wdiere,  only  six  short  hours  previously,  we 
had  anchored  for  the  night  after  one  of  our  usual  "  day's 
work"  of  eighteen  hours. 

Don't  smile,  reader;  we  often  worked  more  than 
eighteen  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four,  during  those  long 
arctic  days. 

I  would  not  have  any  one  understand,  from  the  fact 
that  the  "  old  John"  w^as  under  a  full  head  of  steam,  that 
she  was  rivalling  a  Korth  River  steamer  or  even  a  fair 
sailing-scow  in  speed, — such,  indeed,  being  far  from  the 
case,  as  six  and  a  half  knots  the  hour  w^as  the  most  that 
she  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  accomplish  under  steam 
only.  The  Government  agents,  in  sending  us  to  sea  in 
her,  doubtless  thought  that  she  was  "just  the  vessel  for 
the  service;"  but  loe,  the  interested  imrties,  after  some 
months'  experience,  became  impressed  with  the  unplea- 


374  MOST   UNREASONABLE    BEINGS. 

sant  conviction  that  she  was  destined  to  drown  us  all 
some  fine  morning,  either  by  foundering  in  a  gale  or 
drifting  helplessly  on  some  lee  shore. 

This  conviction,  as  may  be  supposed,  was  productive 
of  the  most  constant  watchfulness  on  our  part.  I  never 
saw  watches  kept  with  more  praiseworthy  zeal  when  the 
occasion  demanded  it.  Even  the  crew,  who  were  as  con- 
scious as  ourselves  of  the  defects  of  the  lame  old  craft, 
worked  with  astonishing  energy  to  keep  her  afloat  until 
our  arrival  in  San  Francisco,  and  as  determinedly  avowed 
their  intention  of  leaving  her  at  that  port,  "  whether  or 
no,  Tom  Collins."  These  unreasonable  beings  actualh 
looked  forward  to  the  crime  of  desertion,  in  preference 
to  again  "launching  out  upon  the  sea"  in  a  vessel  whose 
singular  feats  and  annoying  predilection  for  the  shore 
had  already  sprinkled  more  than  one  head  with  gray. 

It  was  a  tough  cruise,  this  very  "last  one"  at  which  I 
am  now  looking  back ;  and,  though  more  than  a  year  has 
passed  since  our  crazy  old  craft  returned  us  in  safety  to 
the  "Land  of  the  Free  and  the  Home  of  the  Brave,"  the 
mind  still  shrinks  from  the  contemplation  of  past  scenes, 
whose  very  dangers  but  served  at  the  time  to  arouse  its 
latent  powers  of  resistance. 

How  many  there  are,  who,  looking  back  through  the 
dim  and  shadowy  past  at  the  more  prominent  adventures 
of  their  lives,  wonder  in  vain  as  to  the  source  of  those 
unknown  because  previously-untaxed  powers  of  the 
mind,  by  which  they  were  enabled,  in  times  of  pressing 
need,  to  bear  up  against  and  finally  overcome  dangers 
and  obstacles  which,  in  the  quiet  moments  of  after- 
security,  seem  to  have  been  burdened  with  certain  death 


THE    COMMENCEMENT    OF   AN   ADVENTURE.  375 

and  destruction.  It  is  upon  one  of  those  "prominent 
adventures"  that  I  am  now  looking  back  and  wondering 
how  myself  and  some  seventy  others  passed  through  it 
without  the  loss  of  that  readiness  of  action  and  self-pos- 
session so  essential  in  moments  of  unexpected  peril  to 
the  safety  of  lives  or  the  success  of  an  undertaking. 

Our  old  tub,  as  I  have  already  remarked,  was  running 
away  from  her  night's  anchorage  under  a  full  head  of 
steam.  The  rugged  and  snow-patched  coast  of  Siberia 
was  on  our  right,  distant  some  mile  or  more ;  several 
clustering  islands  dotted  the  smooth  surface  of  the 
Okotsk  Sea  on  our  left ;  while  ahead  we  could  just  see 
what  might  be  a  ship  or  towering  rock,  so  distorted  were 
all  objects  in  that  direction  b}"  the  great  refraction  com- 
mon to  high  latitudes.  We  were  not  long  in  doubt, 
however,  as  to  the  nature  of  this  distorted  object.  It 
seemed  to  be  rising  bodily  out  of  the  confused  horizon, 
and  to  be  rushing  upon  us  instead  of  our  slowly  approach- 
ing it  Could  this  be  also  refraction  ?  Hardly.  Suddenly 
we  guessed  the  mjstery :  we  had  been  anchored  during 
the  night  in  the  eddy  formed  by  a  projecting  headland, 
but  had  now  steamed  out  into  one  of  the  fearful  currents 
against  which  we  had  been  so  often  warned  by  old  (but, 
as  we  then  thought,  marvel-loving)  whaling-captains.  It 
was  the  same  current  with  which  we  had  measured  speed 
during  the  previous  day ;  only  it  was  now  running  in  an 
opposite  direction  and  with  evidently  greater  strength. 

"What  was  to  be  done  now?  To  attempt  to  survey  in 
such  a  mill-race  would  have  been  absurd.  Nevertheless, 
we  kept  well  in  with  the  mainland,  intending  to  run  be- 
tween it  and  the  distorted  object,  which  had  at  length 


376  A   DISAGREEABLE    QUESTION. 

resolved  itself  iuto  three  separate  masses  of  towering 
rock. 

The  passage  looked  smooth  and  beautiful  from  the 
masthead  at  first ;  but,  as  we  approached  it  with  our  mad 
velocity,  a  suspicious-looking  streak  of  foam  and  broken 
water  was  gradually  discovered  to  connect  the  extreme 
right   of   the   black-looking   rocks  with   the   mainland. 

Should  this  prove  to  be  a  reef but  bah!  why  hunt  up 

unpleasant  subjects  for  thought? 

Any  one  who  has  ever  watched  the  flying  landscape  from 
the  window  of  a  railroad-car  can  form  a  very  fair  idea  of 
the  appearance  which  the  receding  objects  here  presented 
to  us.  Trees,  rocks,  patches  of  snow,  dark  and  gloomy- 
looking  caves,  with  here  and  there  a  huge  boulder,  snow- 
fed  torrent,  or  wandering  bear,  rushed  by  us  in  their  con- 
stant flight,  separate  and  distinct  at  first,  but  finally 
melting  into  one  conglomerate  mass  of  unrecognisable 
objects,  over  which  the  momentarily-withdrawn  eye 
ranged  in  vain  for  its  former  resting-place.  This  was  the 
velocity  with  which  we  were  going  over  ground  now  for 
the  first  time  passed  over  to  our  knowledge, — thirteen 
miles  to  the  hour  probably,  certainly  not  less  than  twelve: 
wdiere  would  we  all  be  in  one  minute  of  time  should  the 
"old  John"  suddenly  find  a  reef  or  sunken  rock  under 
her  already  leaky  bow  ? 

Some  such  question  as  this  was  drifting  lazily  through 
my  midwatch-worn  mind,  when  I  was  startled  by  the 
voice  of  the  captain,  who,  from  his  look-out  on  the  top- 
sail-yard, ordered  our  course  changed  so  as  to  pass  outside 
of  the  rocks,  as  the  streak  of  broken  water  before  alluded 
to  was  evidently  a  reef     This  discovery  was  no  sooner 


DARK    AND    BITTER    FEELING.  377 

made  tban  I  knew  that  the  "old  John"  was  in  another  of 
her  disagreeably-tight  places ;  and,  when  I  heard  the  rush- 
ing tide  leaping  up  our  sides  in  its  mad  fury,  and  reflected 
that  we  had  to  steam  against  that  tide  before  we  could 
round  those  black  and  towering  piles  of  basaltic  rock 
which  blocked  our  path  with  certain  death,  my  heart  for 
a  moment  contracted  with  spasmodic  horror;  and,  wben  it 
again  swelled  almost  to  bursting,  it  was  with  curses  deep 
and  bitter  against  those  in  authority^  whose  stupid  igno- 
rance or  criminal  carelessness  had  risked  the  safety  of  so 
many  lives  by  detailing  such  a  vessel  for  the  hazardous 
undertaking  of  a  surveying  voyage  around  the  world. 

"  If  there's  any  speed  in  her,  it'll  have  to  come  out 
now,  or  it's  all  day  with  us,"  said  a  voice  at  my  elbow. 

I  turned  with  a  look  of  gloomy  inquiry  to  see  the 
speaker;  for  the  voice,  though  a  familiar  one,  was 
so  strangely  modulated  by  emotion  as  to  be  scarcely 
recognisable.  It  was  the  captain,  who,  ha\'ing  nothing 
more  to  discover  from  aloft,  had  returned  to  the  deck, — 
cool,  calm,  collected,  and  yet  very  pale ;  and  his  voice, 
though  thus  strangely  modulated  by  emotion,  was  firm 
and  bell-like,  and  his  eye  bright,  partially  with  moisture, 
but  more  than  partially  witli  the  light  of  that  fire  which 
burns  only  in  the  brave  man's  eye  when  dangers  crowd 
around  him,  or  in  the  eagle's  glance  when  it  meets  the 
rays  of  the  mid-day  sun. 

"Yes,"  he  continued,  in  a  voice  whose  forced  cheerful- 
ness grated  harshly  on  the  nervous  ear;  "the  'old  John' 
must  indeed  'scratch  gravel'  iiow,  or  we  are  lost  at  last. 
Tell  Lawton  to  fire  up :  let  us  have  all  the  steam  he  can. 
If  the  boilers  won't  bear  it  they  must  burst.     Even  now  we 


378  WE   LOOK   UPON   A  THREATENING    SCENE. 

are  losing  ground,  and  there  is  not  much  of  it  between 
us  and  those " 

He  pointed  to  the  dark  and  towering  masses  of  the 
loosely-piled  rock,  up  whose  rugged  sides  the  bruised  and 
foaming  sea  reared  its  rushing  surface,  and  through 
whose  broken  breast  it  urged  its  half-spent  fur}'.  No 
gravity  existed  there  of  sufficent  power  to  drag  the 
broken  waters  to  a  common  level :  they  rolled,  and 
leaped,  and  surged  in  their  mad  course  until  obstructed 
by  those  hoary  upheavals  of  nature's  past  convulsions, 
and  then  pressed  up  their  precipitous  sides,  or  through 
dark  and  gloomy-looking  archways,  wdth  a  baffled  power 
that  told  of  ruin,  and  destruction,  and  death,  to  the  hap- 
less ship  that  should  be  swept  with  them  in  their  mad 
career. 

The  general  view  which  met  the  eye  was  awful  to 
behold. 

Imagine  a  ship  drifting  with  the  swift  current  of  an 
expansive  river  to  be  suddenly  arrested  by  an  unex- 
pected sandbank.  The  ship  must  now  stand  still :  she  is 
stranded.  The  current  can  sweep  her  no  farther;  it  there- 
fore rears  itself  against  her  slanting  side,  and,  rushing 
around  both  stem  and  stern,  forms  dozens  of  turbid 
whirlpools  under  her  lee.  Now  it  presses  up  her  side, 
now  sinks  below  the  general  level,  now  leaps  in  broken 
masses  up  to  her  very  gunwale,  and  all  the  while  gurgling 
and  foaming  in  the  unsteady  eddy  under  her  lee.  Ima- 
gine such  a  scene  as  this,  I  say,  and  then  multiply  it  a 
hundredfold,  and  you  will  have  a  tolerable  idea  of  the 
one  from  which  our  old  ship  was  now  straining  every 
nerve  to  deliver  us.     Only  in  our  case  the  "  expansive 


BEYOND    THE    REACH    OF    MAN'S    BRAIN.  879 

river"  was  a  moving  ocean,  the  "stranded  ship"  a  rough 
and  towering  mass  of  looselj-piled  rocks,  and  the  "gurg- 
ling and  foaming  of  the  unsteady  eddy"  was  the  surging 
of  the  tortured  waters,  which,  as  we  slowly  neared  in 
spite  of  rising  steam,  was  fast  increasing  to  a  deafening 
roar. 

There  are  some  throes  of  nature  whicli  God  never  in- 
tended man  to  describe.  He  reserves  them  in  the  wan- 
dering air,  in  the  boiling  centre  of  our  common  earth,  in 
the  fathomless  depths  of  the  slumbering  ocean,  or  in  the 
misty  depths  of  the  failing  imagination,  until  such  time 
as  he  sees  fit  to  bring  them  before  us  in  the  shape  of 
agents  in  his  own  vast  and  inappreciable  schemes.  What 
pen  ever  yet  did  justice  to  the  raging  breath  of  the  West 
India  hurricane,  to  the  destroying  action  of  the  great  vol- 
cano of  Hawaii,  or  to  the  scenes  of  ruin  and  desolation 
which  follow  in  the  trail  of  the  mysterious  "bore"  of  the 
Hoogly  and  other  Eastern  rivers  ?  My  pen  also  fails  to  do 
justice  to  the  scene  which  I  have  attempted  to  place  be- 
fore the  reader. 

As  I  have  already  remarked,  there  were  three  of  these 
rocks, — one  immensely  large,  the  others  comparatively 
small.  They  were  separated  by  passages  of  probably  fifty 
or  sixty  feet  in  width,  and  were  gaped  and  undermined 
at  the  water's  edge  by  several  gloomy-looking  caves, 
through  and  down  whicli  the  rushing  sea  seemed  finding 
a  channel  to  the  very  boWels  of  the  earth.  It  was  opposite 
the  larger  of  these  rocks,  and  distant  from  it  only  some 
three  or  four  hundred  yards,  that  we  found  ourselves  after 
tbe  steamer  had  rounded  to  and  commenced  to  measure 
her  speed  with  that  of  this  moving  ocean.     Immediately 


380  BACKWARD  AVE    GO, — SLOWLY   BACKWARD. 

in  our  rear  was  the  largest  and  most  gloomy-looking  of 
those  downward-leading  caves.  It  was  large  enough,  had 
our  masts  been  taken  out,  to  receive  the  entire  hull  of 
the  steamer  into  its  capacious  jaws;  and  toward  these 
capacious  jaws  we  were  now  being  urged  by  a  power 
which  the  advancing  land  —  slowly-advancing,  but  still 
advancing — told  us  w^as  greater  than  our  means  of  resist- 
ance. 

Send  the  best  helmsman  to  the  wheel.  Crowd  the 
furnaces  with  coal  and  pitch.  Jam  down  the  safety- 
valve.  Any  thing  for  steam! — for  steam  and  close  steering 
are  now  the  only  things  that  can  save  us. 

Backward  we  go, — slowly  backward  !  The  old  craft,  as 
if  conscious  of  the  shattered  timbers  and  mangled  forms 
w^hich  but  await  her  touching  to  spring  into  existence, 
trembles  in  every  joint  as  the  tortured  boilers  bear  their 
increasing  power  against  the  whirling  screw, — seventy 
revolutions  to  the  minute,  I  think,  we  were  then  making, 
— and  yet  backward,  slow^ly  backward,  toward  the  yawn- 
ing death.  It  was  sickening  to  see  a  patch  of  sea-weed, 
or  a  drifting  log,  pass  us  in  their  unconscious  career  and 
in  less  than  a  minute  of  time  disappear  upon  the  breast 
of  the  diving  flood, — down,  down,  how  far? 

Even  the  whales  that  had  been  rubbing  their  huge 
sides  against  our  barnacled  copper  for  the  last  few  days 
gave  one  plunge  deeper  than  the  rest,  and  left  man  to 
lean  upon  his  whirling  screw  and  die — alone.  The  nu- 
merous varieties  of  the  arctic  duck,  which  had  heretofore 
spotted  the  calm  and  polished  surface  of  the  ocean  in 
every  direction,  were  now  no  longer  to  be  seen  between 
us  and  the   nearing  danger.     There  were  thousands  of 


MAN  LEANS  UPON  HIS  BROKEN  REED,        381 

them  still  drifting  past ;  but,  warned  by  nature's  sure 
instinct,  tbey,  like  the  whale,  avoided  the  risk  of  being 
thrown  upon  those  pointed  rocks,  or  sucked  into  those 
fethomless  holes,  by  preserving  a  safe  distance.  They, 
too,  using  with  ease  the  means  of  escape  furnished  them 
by  an  all-providing  Being,  left  man  to  lean  upon  his 
broken  reed  and  die — alone.  Even  the  lost  and  wearied 
land-birds,  which  for  days  past  had  found  food  and 
shelter  upon  our  decks,  deserted  us  for  a  rocky  perch 
just  over  the  dark  and  roaring  cavern  toward  which  we 
were  slowly  drifting,  as  if  selecting  a  commanding  point 
from  which  to  witness  the  approaching  work  of  dissolu- 
tion. The  very  dogs  crouched  at  our  feet  in  trembling 
fear  as  the  noise  of  the  rushing  waters  startled  them,  and 
howled  piteously  as  they  gazed  into  faces  so  changed  by 
deep  and  terrible  emotion.  Millions  of  bats  and  swal- 
lows left  their  thousand  nests  at  those  dismal  and  un- 
known sounds,  startled  by  the  unusual  proximity  of  man 
to  their  desolate  haunts,  and,  circling  through  and  around 
our  gear  and  decks,  added  their  harsh,  discordant  screams 
to  the  roaring  of  the  waters,  and  interposed  their  black 
and  crowded  masses  between  us  and  the  morning  sun. 
They  were  like  dense  clouds  casting  their  passing  sha- 
dows over  us, — gloomy  shadows,  that  might  be  shading  a 
more  gloomy  fate. 

Backward, — slowly  backward ! 

God  of  heaven  !  must  we,  in  this  quiet  state  of  mo- 
tionless inactivity,  drift  inch  by  inch  into  that  howling 
cavern,  or  wilfully  throw  ourselves  upon  the  sharp  rocks 
of  the  sunken  reef  as  the  only  alternative  ?  Is  man,  and 
man  only,  with  the  vast  resources  of  his  mighty  intellect 


382  THE  DESPERATE  ALTERNATIVE. 

to  aid  liim,  to  be  strangled,  suffocated,  mangled,  destroyed, 
while  the  inferior  animals  around  him  swim  majestically 
away,  or  hover  on  fearless  wings  over  the  sullen  and 
hopeless  struggle  ?  Is  time  to  end  now,  as  far  as  we  are 
concerned  ? — we  who  have  still  such  strong  frames,  such 
glowing  blood,  such  vivid  recollections  of  the  past,  such 
yearnings  of  hope  for  the  future,  such  nerve  to  struggle 
against  this  hideous  fate  could  we  but  grasp  it  in  some 
tangible  form  ? 

Is  that  bright  sun  now  shining  upon  us  for  the  last 
time? — us,  whose  path  it  was  created  to  light?  May  not 
some  wandering  breeze  reach  us  in  its  wayward  course, 
to  fill  our  idle  sails  and  urge  us  forward  while  yet  a  few 
short  yards  exist  between  us  and  that  rocky  pile  ?  Alas, 
no  !  The  stern  and  lowering  brow  contracts  in  hopeless 
despair  over  a  broad  expanse  of  calm  and  polished  ocean, 
while  backward — slowly  backward — we  drop  against  the 
struggling  screw. 

"We  can  no  longer  measure  our  yards  by  hundreds. 
Time  is  drawing  to  a  close,  and  space  seems  shrinking 
into  nothing  as  though  they  journeyed  to  a  common 
grave.  A  strong  arm  might  have  cast  a  stone  into  that 
yawning  gulf,  when  a  single  order,  the  first  that  had 
been  given  for  apparently  an  age,  told  us  that  the  despe- 
rate choice  had  been  made. 

To  be  thrown  upon  the  sharp  rocks  of  the  sunken 
reef  by  the  boiling  ocean  which  swept  over  them,  as- 
sured us  of  at  least  a  sunlit  grave;  while  the  dark  depths 
of  the  dismal-looking  cavern,  rendered  doubly  dark  and 
gloomy  by  the  contrast  with  the  snowy  foam  which 
frothed  around  its  mouth,  resembled  in  their  inky  hue 


:^'»; 


GLOOM,  HORROR,  AND    DESPAIR.  383 

the  commencement  of  the  shadow  of  the  valley  of 
death. 

"  Starboard !" 

Reader,  do  you  know  what  that  single  word  meant? 
Would  you  see  it  drawn  out  into  good  old  English  ? 

It  meant  that  there  no  longer  existed  a  hope  of  being 
able  to  steam  against  the  rushing  tide  with  our  powerless 
propeller  and  leaking  boilers.  It  meant  that  we  were  to 
go  to  death  upon  the  foaming  reef  in  preference  to  being 
swept  into  his  embrace  in  those  gloomy  depths.  It  meant 
that  the  throbbing  brain  of  him  whose  slightest  word  was 
law  even  in  that  moment  of  awful  suspense  had  decided 
to  give  up  the  unequal  struggle  and  accept  the  hopeless 
.alternative.  It  meant  that  by  our  own  act  we  were  re- 
signing the  few  minutes  during  which  the  struggle  might 
be  protracted,  to  rush  headlong  upon  the  less  revolting 
death.  It  meant  that  at  the  end  of  those  "few  minutes" 
certain  and  instantaneous  death  awaited  us,  and  that  at 
the  end  of  those  few  seconds  possible  salvation  for  a  few 
hours  was  in  store  for  him  who  should  grasp  a  broken  spar 
or  buoyant  cask  when  the  vessel's  hull  should  be  ground 
from  under  us,  and  the  confused  mass  of  shattered  tim- 
bers, tangled  gear,  and  mangled  forms  be  swept  over  the 
boiling  line  into  the  fathomless  water  beyond.  It  meant 
that  the  moment  was  at  hand  when  the  weak  man  was  to 
find  a  speedy  end,  and  when  the  strong  man  was  to  feel  his 
sinewy  arm  slowly  deaden  from  the  protracted  labour  of 
self-preservation:  slowly,  but  surely,  all  flesh  must  sink. 
And  it  meant  that  brave  hearts  were  now  to  die,  and 
that  fond  hearts  in  another  hemisphere  were  to  weep 
their  unknown  fate  and  languish  in  lonely  sorrow  until 


384  UNLOOKED-FOR    SALVATION. 

time  to  them,  also,  should  draw  to  a  close.  All  this  it 
meaut;  and  horror,  and  despair,  and  approaching  dissolu- 
tion, gathered  around  us. 

"Starhoard  it  is,  sir!"  said  the  ready  helmsman ;  and 
as  he  spoke  the  wheel  turned  evenly  under  his  nervous 
grasp,  and  the  old  ship's  head  dropped  slowly  oft'.  Bodily, 
hopelessly,  broadside  on,  she  now  drifted  toward  the  last 
struggle.  IIow  quickly  those  few  seconds  glide, — small 
seconds  of  time,  but  awful,  awful  taxes  upon  the  mind's 
future  stability !  Men  live  through  past  ages  in  moments 
like  those.  The  strained  and  labouring  brain  burns  with 
a  fire  that  whitens  the  locks  of  youth,  or  sows  the  seeds 
of  future  disease,  through  sheer  intensity  of  thought. 

It  is  come !  Men  cease  to  breathe,  and,  with  half-closed 
eyes  and  muscles  of  iron,  grasp  a  swinging  rope  or  near 
belaying-pin  with  unconscious  power ! 

What?  The  reef!  Where  is  it?  A  merciful  Being 
smiled  upon  his  helpless  creatures  and  strengthened  their 
broken  reed  in  that  moment  of  their  dire  extremity.  Our 
eyes  had  deceived  us.  Eyes  whose  business  it  had  been 
for  years  to  discover  the  unknown  reef,  and  to  distinguish 
between  that  and  the  deceptive  tide-rip,  had  failed  for 
once.  No  reef  existed.  It  was  the  peculiar  formation  of 
the  land,  combined  with  the  fearful  velocity  of  the  rush- 
ing ocean,  which  created  a  tide-rip  that  might  well  have 
deceived  a  thousand  eyes.  And,  as  we  drifted  wildly  over 
the  boiling  space  into  the  '' fathomless  waters  beyond," 
man's  failing  eye,  which  had  been  dry  and  hard  and  burn- 
ins:  while  death  held  out  his  fleshless  arms,  softened  with 
cooling  moisture,  until  those  shapeless  piles  of  towering 
rock  grew  dim  and  undefined  in  their  uncertain  vision. 


BUNSBY   GETS    EXCITED.  385 

It  was  with  fearful  speed  that  we  had  drifted  around 
the  angular  corner  of  the  in-shore  rock,  and  it  was  soon 
left  far,  far  astern.  Men  began  again  to  look  around 
them  and  breathe  freely:  the  danger  was  past;  we  again 
went  on  our  careless  way. 

"Blast  her  miserable  timbers !"  said  our  friend  Bunsby, 
as  he  took  the  old  ship  in  at  a  single  indignant  glance : 
"if  she'd  only  them  chaps  in  Congress  as  her  crew,  them 
in  the  Cabinet  as  her  officers,  and  the  old  President  for 
cap'n,  I'd  as  soon  see  her  sink  as  float, — shiver  her !"  And, 
with  this  emphatic  expression  of  "  an  opinion  as  was  an 
opinion,"  he  wondered  "how  much  longer  we  had  to  live 
now,''  and  threw  from  his  mouth  a  piece  of  exhausted 
tobacco  which  must  have  weighed  something  more  than 
an  ounce. 

Indignation  at  being  sent  to  sea  in  such  a  ship  was 
evidently  the  paramount  feeling  in  Bunsby's  breast  at 
that  moment.  "Wliat  a  most  unreasonable  being  he  was, 
truly,  to  indulge  in  such  a  wish  as  to  the  various  heads 
of  the  Government !  Who  would  not  approve,  as  fair  and 
just,  the  arming  of  a  good  swordsman  with  a  bending 
lath  and  sending  him  to  fight  his  battle  ?  It  was,  I  sup- 
pose, upon  this  principle  that  we — machines  of  flesh  and 
blood  whose  only  duty  it  is  to  obey  orders — were  armed 
with  a  miserable  old  craft,  neither  sail-vessel  or  steamer, 
and  sent  to  battle  the  gales  of  every  clime,  to  discover 
and  locate  the  very  dangers  which  better  ships  do  their 
best  to  shun.  "Would  that  we  were  all  Bunsbys,  or  that 
common  sense  and  humanity  would  combine  to  sweep 
from  the  ocean  all  such  man-traps  as  the  ci-devant  water- 

25 


886  THE    SIBERIAN   VILLAGE    OF   OLA. 

tank,  the  present  "United  States  serew-steamer-of-war 
of  the  third  class,"  John  Hancock. 

The  day  following  this  narrow  escape,  we  found  our- 
selves at  anchor  near  a  Siberian  village,  the  name  of 
which  proved  to  be  Ola.  We  had  heard  much  of  this 
settlement  from  whalers  before  reaching  the  coal-mine, — 
one  of  those  explorers  having  enlivened  us  with  the  in- 
formation that  the  natives  were  pleasant  and  friendly, 
and  that  they  had  quantities  of  beef,  milk,  and  fish,  be- 
sides a  limited  supply  of  vegetables.  He  further  told  us 
that  they  were  totally  unacquainted  with  the  value  of 
money,  and  that  we  could  trade  with  them  to  great 
advantage  by  drawing  largely  upon  the  purser's  store- 
room for  flannel,  silk  handkerchiefs,  tobacco,  sugar,  rice, 
molasses,  &c.  &c., — all  of  which  we  found  to  be  strictly 
the  case.  I  had  often  heard  of  such  innocent  people,  but 
never  before  saw  human  beings  who  had  no  idea  of  the 
value  of  money.  Even  the  Kuriles  have  Japanese  coin, 
and  the  Fejee  Islanders  buy  and  sell  with  the  foreigners 
on  their  cannibal  shores.  But  I  am  again  wandering 
from  my  narrative. 

As  soon  as  the  anchor  was  down,  we  called  away  three 
boats  and  started  to  find  the  mouth  of  the  river  upon  the 
banks  of  which  we  had  been  told  Ola  was  situated,  and 
in  these  boats  went  at  least  half  of  the  entire  ^;er50W??f? 
of  the  "old  John:"  it  was  not  every  day  that  we  had 
either  the  time  or  the  opportunity  to  indulge  in  similar 
sprees,  and  when  they  thus  presented  themselves  "hand 
in  hand"  they  always  found  us  ready. 

Our  three  boats  left  the  ship  at  the  same  time,  and,  after 
a  longer  pull  than  we  had  looked  for,  reached  the  mouth 


THEIR   FAMILIARITY   WITH    OUR    LANGUAGE.  387 

of  tlie  river.  It  proved  to  be  a  stream  of  some  ten  or 
fifteen  yards  in  width,  with  a  bad  bar  across  its  mouth, — 
so  bad,  in  fact,  that  we  beached  our  boats  near  its  outer 
edge  in  preference  to  risking  a  ducking.  We  then 
walked  a  mile  or  more  over  a  flat,  boggy  piece  of  land, 
through  which  ran  our  river,  as  well  as  several  smaller 
streams,  and,  finally,  arrived  opposite  a  scattered  collec- 
tion of  log  houses,  from  which  the  people  were  running 
to  welcome  us.     Let  us  see  what  my  journal  says: — 

"  The  river  being  between  us,  they  launched  a  couple 
of  '  dug-outs'  to  ferry  us  over ;  which  accomplished,  we 
were  received  by  a  crowd  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
natives  in  a  most  friendly  manner;  and  they  no  sooner 
saw  our  articles  of  barter  than  they  became  unpleasantly 
so,  insisting  on  shaking  hands  over  and  over  again,  and 
motioning  us  to  follow  them  to  their  houses,  where  they 
had  other  articles  which  they  would  exchange  for  ours. 

"We  readily  understood  these  signs,  which  were  as- 
sisted by  a  few  slang  expressions  picked  up  from  whalers, 
and,  with  our  '  peddler-packs'  under  our  arms,  followed 
them  up  from  the  river-bank.  As  we  went  along  we 
gazed  with  longing  eyes  at  the  stunted  but  plump-looking 
bullocks  and  the  trim  little  milch-cows  that  dotted  the 
undulating  country  ahead  of  us,  and  intimated  by  signs 
that  what  we  principally  wanted  to  trade  for  was  meat  to 
eat  and  milk  to  drink.  At  this  they  laughed  promisingly, 
and  got  off  the  expression  '  bum-by'  quite  patly ;  after 
which  they  laughed  heartily  at  their  evident  familiarity 
with  our  language,  and  became  more  affectionate  than 
ever. 

"What  seemed  to  sui'prise  and  please  them  most  was 


888  CALICO   DRESSES   AND  LOG    HOUSES. 

our  being  dressed  in  uniform,  they  having  been  pre- 
viously visited  by  none  but  whalers,  vs^hose  universal  habit 
it  is  to  consult  only  the  respective  states  of  their  wardrobe, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  air,  while  putting  on  their 
variegated  apparel.  Most  of  us  on  this  occasion  wore 
blue  flannel  sack-coats  with  the  usual  abundant  allowance 
of  naval  buttons  ;  and  these  they  were  particularly  struck 
with,  making  signs  that  they  would  like  nothing  better 
than  to  exchange  their  own  fur  '  over-alls'  for  them.  In 
return,  we  intimated  that  our  clothes  would  be  too  cool 
for  them ;  but  they  only  laughed  and  pointed  to  several 
women  who  now  approached,  some  of  whom  were  rigged 
out  (evidently  in  honour  of  the  occasion)  in  fancy  calico 
dresses,  while  the  others  were,  as  usual,  clothed  in  loose 
garments  made  from  the  skin  of  the  reindeer. 

"  We  found  several  of  those  women  quite  pretty,  in 
spite  of  the  ungraceful  and  masculine  nature  of  their 
attire;  and  they  joined  the  party  in  a  very  modest  and 
retiring  manner,  shaking  hands  laughingly  with  each  of 
us  who  noticed  them,  and  accompanying  us  to  the  house 
of  the  headman  of  the  village,  who  proved  to  be  one  of 
those  who  had  received  us  so  warmly  at  the  landing.'' 

And  now,  before  I  go  any  further,  I  may  as  well  give 
the  reader  an  idea  of  the  houses  of  that  village,  and  of 
the  people  who  lived  in  them.  The  former  were  of  dif- 
ferent styles,  though  they  were  all  built  of  logs  with 
their  crevices  filled  in  with  a  mixture  of  mud  and  grass. 
The  larger  ones  resembled  our  ordinary  log  cabins,  with 
the  exception  of  the  absence  of  windows  and  chimneys, — 
an  extensive  skylight  in  the  middle  of  the  roof  serving 
to  admit  light  as  well  as  to  permit  the  escape  of  smoke. 


BEDS   AND   BEDCLOTHES    AT   OLA.'  389 

Their  flooring  was  the  natural  soil  levelled  off;  and  down 
the  entire  length  of  their  centres  ran  a  raised  bed  of  earth 
of  some  four  or  five  feet  in  width,  that  was  kept  from 
crumbling  down  by  a  framework  of  posts  and  rough 
planks. 

Around  this  earthen  work  ran  a  gangway  of  about  the 
same  width,  while  around  the  sides  of  the  building 
itself  were  tier  upon  tier  of  sleeping-bunks, — very  much 
like  a  ship's  forecastle, — the  bottoms  of  which  were  filled 
with  skins  of  black  bear,  reindeer,  and  other  animals : 
these  evidently  answered  the  purpose  of  both  bed  and 
bedclothes,  and  presented  any  thing  but  an  inviting  ap- 
pearance. In  the  centre  of  the  earthen  work  there  was 
kept  up  a  constant  fire,  the  smoke  of  which,  curling  up 
among  the  rafters,  served  to  cure  quantities  of  hanging 
salmon  before  effecting  its  escape  through  the  "  extensive 
skylight."  From  the  smoke  of  the  constant  fires  that 
were  thus  kept  up,  their  interiors  had  assumed  a  smoky 
hue,  which,  assisted  by  the  smell  of  fish,  gave  every  thing 
a  look  of  greasy  filthiness.  We  soon  concluded  that  the 
open  air  was  best  adapted  to  the  business  of  trafiicking, 
and  "backed  out"  accordingly. 

The  second  style  of  house  was,  as  I  have  already  re- 
marked, similar  to  these  as  far  as  material  was  concerned, 
but  no  further.  They  were,  like  the  Malay  houses  of 
Rangou,  raised  upon  from  four  to  eight  posts  to  an  eleva- 
tion of  several  feet,  but,  unlike  them,  were  floored  with 
small  saplings  or  rough  plank.  They  were  some  ten  feet 
square  as  a  general  rule,  boasted  a  single  door  and  no 
windows,  and  were  without  chimneys.  Their  floor  was 
about  three  feet  from  the  ground,  so  that  they  could  be 


390  WE  ATTACK   THE    HEADMAN'S   DAIRY. 

climbed  into  easily  without  the  aid  of  steps.  Of  course 
they  had  no  fire  iu  them,  they  being  used  mostly  as 
sleeping-quarters. 

We  did  not  enter  any  of  them,  but,  upon  looking  in, 
saw  nothing  but  piles  upon  piles  of  skins,  which,  being 
spread  out  very  evenly,  gave  the  whole  apartment  the 
appearance  of  one  vast  "field-bed."  Their  doors  shut 
quite  closely  and  worked  upon  wooden  hinges,  and  they 
were  sometimes  locked  with  padlocks,  (obtained  from  the 
whale-ships  which  visit  them  from  time  to  time,)  in  which 
cases  we  generally  found  that  they  acted  the  part  of  store- 
houses. As  sleeping-apartments  they  were  decidedly 
preferable  to  the  larger  ones,  as  they  were  free  from  the 
odour  of  fish,  and  the  absence  of  fire  left  their  sides 
and  contents  of  a  reasonable  colour. 

When  we  came  to  buy  our  milk,  the  headman  beckoned 
lis  to  follow  him  with  our  bottles,  and  led  the  way  to  his 
particular  "lock-up,"  where  he  opened  the  door  with  a 
wire  kej',  (having  lost  the  original,)  and  disclosed  to  our 
brightening  eyes  the  long-untasted  luxury  ranged  around 
its  sapling  flooring  in  tin  pans  and  cool-looking  earthen 
jars.  We  bought  it  hj  the  jar — each  one  a  jar — and  began 
on  the  spot  to  make  up  for  lost  time.  Who  can  tell  how 
much  our  scurvy-threatened  palates  enjoyed  these  pro 
tracted  draughts  ? 

In  addition  to  these  houses,  there  were  any  number 
of  sheds  scattered  about  for  drying  fish  previous  to  the 
smoking-process.  These  were  rigged  with  light  mova- 
ble roofs,  so  that  the  fish  might  be  exposed  to  the  sun 
as  well  as  protected  from  rain.  They  told  us  that,  when 
bad  weather  came  on,  they  hauled  over  the  roofs,  and 


A   COMMON   FAILING    OF   YOUNG    LADIES.  391 

built  fires  uuder  tliem  to  lessen  the  efi'ect  of  the 
moisture. 

Dogs,  children,  and  fish  seemed  to  prevail  to  a  greater 
extent  than  any  thing  else,  though  cattle  and  grown 
people  were  far  from  scarce.  These  latter  were  rather 
below  the  middle  stature  than  otherwise,  and  we  could 
not  distinguish  between  them  and  the  natives  near  the 
coal-mine.  Their  complexion  was  a  sickly  bronzed 
olive,  features  irregular,  and  they  were  dressed  mostly 
in  loose  trousers,  smockfrock,  and  hood, —  all  being 
made  from  the  skin  of  the  reindeer.  Some  of  them 
wore  the  fur  inside;  others,  out:  just  as  the  fancy 
seemed  to  strike  them.  The  same  garment  could  be 
worn  either  way. 

Describing  complexions  is  not  my  forte ;  and  some  one 
may  ask,  "What  is  a  sickly  bronze?"  They  looked  like 
persons  of  a  naturally-fair  complexion  who  had  been 
chronically  darkened  from  generation  to  generation ; 
for  even  the  infants  partook  of  the  general  hue.  Their 
forms  were  remarkably  light  and  sinewy,  their  eye 
bright,  and  the  springing  step  of  their  moccasin-clad 
feet  indicated  muscles  of  unfailing  elasticity.  The 
more  youthful  of  the  fair  (?)  sex  were  lively,  cheerful, 
and  far  from  ugly,  boasting  hands  and  feet  of  rare 
mould  and  dimensions.  Like  young  ladies  of  almost 
every  latitude,  they  seemed  to  think  that  the  fact  of 
their  being  young  and  pretty  entitled  them  to  an  extra 
amount  of  consideration;  and  I  am  free  to  acknowledge 
that  they  got  as  many  skeins  of  silk,  papers  of  needles, 
&c.  &c.  for  their  well-expended  smiles  as  did  their  more 


392  ONLY  A  SUMMER   RESORT. 

elderly  companions   for  their  bullocks,  fish,  and  other 
articles  of  trade. 

Having  now  given  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  Siberian 
settlement  of  Ola  and  of  the  people  who  lived  in  it, 
I  will  proceed  to  show  how  it  was  that  they  came 
there,  and  what  they  did  after  arriving ;  for  Ola  was  not 
inhabited  all  the  year  round.  But  this  subject  is,  I 
think,  worthy  of  being  introduced  at  the  head  of  another 
chapter. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SOME  OTHER  THINGS  ABOUT  "OLA,"  SHOWING  THE  READER  HOW  AN  OLD 
WOMAN  NEARLY  LOST  HER  FAVOURITE  MILCH-COW,  AND  HOW  THEY  CATCH 
FISH  IN  THAT  OUT-OF-THE-WAY  PART  OF  THE  WORLD,  ETC.  ETC. — WE 
ARRIVE  AT  FABIUS  ISLAND,  BAY  OF  TAOUSK,  AND  REGALE  OURSELVES 
UPON    WHORTLEBERRIES. 

From  all  that  we  could  learn  then  and  subsequently, 
it  seems  that  the  country  back  of  Ola  is  rather  thinly 
populated,  and  that  what  people  there  are  come  down 
to  the  sea  with  the  return  of  spring  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  and  curing  supplies  of  the  salmon  which  visit 
certain  localities  in  countless  shoals.  They  work  at 
this  business  during  most  of  their  short  summers,  and 
then  return  before  the  approaching  winter  to  their 
more  sheltered  homes  with  their  provender,  in  the  shape 
of  smoked  and  dried  fish. 

"When  they  break  out  from  the  confinement  of  their 
long  winters,  they  emigrate,  with  their  horses,  cows, 
dogs,  and  sleighs,  to  some  such  "  summer  resort"  as 
Ola,  where  they  take  possession  of  the  houses  that 
have  been  vacant  all  winter,  and  commence  to  catch 
their  fish,  and  trade  with  any  whaler  that  may  visit 
them.  They  also  often  plant  turnips  from  seed  origin- 
ally obtained  from  said  whalers,  which  in  the  short 
space  of  six  weeks  will  grow  to  double  the  size  of  one's 

393 


394  THEIR   ARTICLES    OF   TRAFFIC. 

Ust;  but,  unfortunately  for  us  of  the  "old  John,"  they 
had  neglected  doing  so  the  season  we  were  there. 

All  that  we  found  them  able  to  trade  with  us  for  were, 
firstly,  fish  without  end;  secondly,  three  small  bullocks; 
thirdly,  some  three  or  four  gallons  of  milk;  fourthly, 
several  hundred  Siberian  squirrel-skins ;  fifthly  and 
lastly,  the  coarser  skins  of  the  black  bear,  the  rein- 
deer, and  another  animal,  whose  name  I  forget.  In 
addition  to  these,  there  were  various  articles  of  dress 
that  they  would  gladly  have  exchanged;  but,  as  most 
of  them  had  been  worn,  we  did  not  do  much  in  that 
line.  One  very  pretty  girl  I  remember  in  particular, . 
who,  having  fallen  in  love  with  a  red  silk  handkerchief 
that  I  had  purposely  flaunted  before  her  eyes,  offered 
me  every  thing  about  her  house,  even  to  a  pair  of  richly- 
worked  buckskin  moccasins,  made  long  like  a  boot  and 
having  embroidered  strings  with  which  to  tie  them 
over  the  knee.  She  pointed  to  the  large  house  of  the 
headman,  and  made  signs,  as  she  measured  one  of  them 
along  her  foot  to  show  how  it  fitted,  that  she  had  only  worn 
them  upon  one  occasion,  and  that  was  when  a  number 
of  whalers  had  landed  with  a  fiddle  and  they  had  had  a 
feast  and  a  dance  under  its  hospitable  roof,  and  that 
they  were  not  the  least  the  worse  for  wear.  There  was 
only  one  way  for  me  to  get  over  this  species  of  argu- 
ment, and  that  was  by  putting  my  foot  alongside  of 
hers,  and  asking,  by  signs,  what  manner  of  use  they 
could  ever  prove  to  me.  And  to  this  she  replied  by 
flinging  them  into  a  corner  and  snatching  at  the  hand- 
kerchief with  a  determined,  "  have-it- whether-or-no-Tom- 
CoUins"  air  that  spoke  her  disappointment  more  strongly 


THE   PURSER   IS   CAUTIONED   TO   "LOOK  SHARP."       395 

than  the  best  English  could  have  doue.  I  ended  by 
giving  it  to  her  for  thirty  squirrel-skins,  a  reindeer-robe, 
and  the  contemned  moccasins ;  and  the  reader  must  not 
accuse  me  of  having  weathered  the  unsophisticated 
beauty  in  the  trade  until  he  or  she  reads  further  and 
sees  what  little  value  they  attached  to  their  articles  of 
traffic  and  how  great  a  value  to  ours. 

We  had  been  cautioned  by  various  whalers  as  to  the 
nature  of  the  things  they  most  longed  for,  and  had  taken 
the  precaution,  before  leaving  the  ship,  to  load  ourselves 
down  with  such.  They  consisted  of  the  following  ar- 
ticles:—  fancy  calicoes,  cotton  or  silk  handkerchiefs, 
needles  and  thread,  brilliantly-coloured  sewing-silk,  (of 
which  we  had  bought  many  pounds  in  China,)  all  kinds 
of  old  clothes,  molasses,  rice,  tobacco,  spirits,  flannel, 
blankets ;  in  short,  almost  every  thing  except  money. 

It  would  have  been  amusing  to  have  stood  off"  and 
watched  the  various  groups  as  they  carried  on  their 
trading.  In  the  foreground,  first  and  foremost  in  re- 
sources, stood  the  purser,  with  the  Government  at  his 
back  in  the  shape  of  endless  supplies  of  flannel  and 
tobacco,  and  the  captain  at  his  elbow  urging  upon  him 
the  necessity  of  securing  bullocks  and  vegetables  for  the 
ship's  company  before  they  were  bought  up  by  the  dif- 
ferent messes.  Now,  as  the  bullocks  were  drifting  about 
over  the  hills  with  natives  already  following-  them  upon 
"fell  murder  intent,"  and  as  no  vegetables  had  yet  been 
discovered,  the  purser — very  naturally — could  not  see  the 
necessity  for  any  further  exertion  on  his  part,  and  was 
evidently  disposed  to  "  take  it  easy."  The  elbow-jogging, 
therefore,  only  resulted  in  causing  him  to  seat  himself 


396  TERKIBLE   FRIGHT    OF   THE   HEADMAN'S   MOTHER. 

upon  his  wares  and  wait  for  the  headman  to  drive  up  his 
bullocks  and  fix  his  price.  The  purser  was  a  philoso- 
pher, and,  at  the  same  time,  a  most  immovable  specimen 
of  the  fraternity. 

In  another  direction  was  to  be  seen  a  party  of  three  or 
four  exchanging  a  half-plug  of  tobacco  for  a  jar  of  milk, 
and  evincing  unmistakable  signs  of  a  determination  to 
arrive  at  the  bottom  of  their  purchase  before  engaging 
in  any  further  speculation,  while,  at  the  same  time,  some 
more  fastidious  companion  rushed  toward  them  with  the 
exclamation,  "Don't  drink  it  on  shore  !  w^ait  until  we  get 
on  board  and  change  it  to  a  brandy-punch,"  or  words  to 
that  effect. 

Here  were  to  be  seen  some  of  the  crew,  already  heavily 
loaded  with  hundreds  of  smoked  salmon,  putting  down 
their  bundles  and  bargaining  for  others  smqjly  because 
they  were  cheap;  while  in  another  quarter  was  one  who, 
having  bought  all  that  he  wanted,  amused  himself  by 
giving  away  the  remnant  of  his  trading-stock,  thus  draw- 
ing down  upon  his  unsuspecting  head  the  censure  of 
those  who,  having  as  yet  bought  nothing,  could  see  no 
prospect  of  bringing  the  natives  to  a  trade  as  long  as  he 
continued  said  amusement. 

Then,  again,  there  was  our  heavily- whiskered  boat- 
swain's mate  driving  a  bargain  with  the  mother  of  the 
headman  for  her  favourite  milch-cow  and  calf,  while  she 
was  all  the  while  under  the  impression  that  he  spoke  of 
the  calf  only.  Her  surprise  may  be  imagined  when  she 
saw  him  driving  off  the  two,  for  which  he  had  only 
given  her  two  plugs  of  tobacco  and  a  black  silk  neck- 
handkerchief     Of  course  she   returned  to  the  charge, 


COAVS    EAT    FISH    IN   SIBERIA.  397 

and,  as  is  usual  in  most  disputes  between  the  sexes,  con- 
vinced him  of  his  mistake  and  rescued  her  favourite. 

And,  lastly,  there  was  the  writer  himself,  with  his  red 
silk  handkerchief  and  the  unsor>histicated  arctic  belle, 
with  her  embroidered  boots  and  petulant  air,  to  fill  up 
the  picture.  It  was  a  pleasant  evening  that  we  thus 
passed  among  those  truly  simple  and  harmless  I^orth- 
erners.  Finally,  we  got  through  with  our  trading  and 
began  to  walk  around  and  indulge  in  a  general  survey 
of  every  thing  worth  noting.  We  looked  upon  the 
horses  and  cattle  that  were  sprinkled  around  us  enjoj^- 
ing  the  summer  grass,  and  asked  our  hosts  how  they 
managed  to  feed  them  during  their  long  winters.  They 
pointed  to  the  grass  and  made  signs  that  they  cut  it 
while  the  sun  was  hot  and  put  it  up  in  piles ;  and  that, 
when  that  was  exhausted,  they  had  recourse  to  the 
branches  of  the  pine-trees,  which  were  always  plentiful, 
but  not  so  good. 

They  also  said  that  they  fed  all  of  their  animals  on  the 
heads  and  backbones  of  fish,  and,  upon  our  laughing  at 
this  as  absurd,  one  of  them  reached  overhead,  (we  were 
in  the  headman's  house  at  the  time,)  and,  taking  down 
one  of  them,  motioned  us  to  follow  him  outside,  where 
he  threw  it  to  the  old  woman's  favourite  milch-cow,  who 
made  short  work  of  it,  and  then  wiped  out  her  tongue  as 
if  asking  for  more. 

I  must  say  that  the  sight  surprised  me  exceedingly. 
The  idea  of  a  coav  eating  fish  was  not  only  ridiculous, 
but  almost  disgusting,  when  one  looked  back  upon  the 
milk-drinking  spree  that  we  had  just  indulged  in ;  but 
we  were  destined  to  be  still  further  surprised  by  one  of 


398  HOW  WE    PERSUADE    A   YOUNG    BULLOCK. 

the  natives  pointing  to  a  scrubby-looking  little  pony  and 
intimating  that  he  also  was  a  great  fish-eater. 

We  asked  if  the  milk  never  tasted  fishy,  and  they 
pointed  to  the  grass  and  to  the  sun,  which  we  took  to 
mean  that,  during  the  summer  and  as  long  as  their  hay 
lasted,  they  were  not  fed  on  fish.  I  could  not  help  going 
back  a  great  many  years  and  recalling  a  taste  of  wild 
onions  that  had  saved  a  whole  dairy  of  milk  from  the 
unlawful  attentions  of  a  party  of  wearied  hunters,  of 
whom  I  was  one,  and  wondering  which  of  the  two — fish 
or  onions — would  be  most  calculated  to  afford  protection 
to  the  dairymen  under  similar  circumstances. 

"We  had  now  been  on  shore  some  time,  and,  as  it  was 
a  long  walk  to  the  boats  and  our  purchases  were  far 
from  light,  we  began  to  make  up  our  bundles  and  pre- 
pare for  the  return.  We  found  considerable  difficulty  at 
first  in  persuading  a  young  bullock  as  to  the  propriety 
of  accompanying  us ;  but,  finally,  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  a  strong  line  around  his  horns  and  three 
or  four  tough  switches  about  his  rear,  he  was  induced  to 
make  ver}^  good  time  as  far  as  the  boat,  where  he  was 
tied  securely  and  stowed  under  the  thwarts  and  trans- 
ported on  board  of  the  "John." 

On  our  way  down  we  passed  a  small  stream  where 
some  of  the  natives  were  preparing  to  catch  their  usual 
daily  supply  of  salmon,  and  some  of  us  lingered  behind 
the  main  party  to  see  how  they  succeeded  and  to  carry  a 
few  fresh  ones  on  board  for  supper. 

I  have  seen  fish  caught  in  all  parts  of  the  world  by 
dozens  of  nations   and   in  a  dozen  different  ways,  but 


HOW    THEY    CATCH    FISH    AT    OLA.  399 

never  did  I  see  auy  thing  like  the  scene  that  then  came 
off  near  the  mouth  of  this  small  stream. 

When  we  arrived,  the  natives  were  stretching  across 
this  stream  a  heavy  seine,  made  from  the  sinews  of  the 
reindeer  and  other  animals :  we  found  it  some  thirty  feet 
wide,  and  only  waist-deep  at  high  water,  and  its  current 
by  no  means  as  rapid  as  is  usual  in  those  high  latitudes. 
We  crossed  to  the  other  shore  in  a  "dug-out,"  and,  put- 
ting our  bundles  on  the  bank,  seated  ourselves  upon  them 
to  see  how  they  fished  at  Ola. 

On  either  bank  they  had  strong  posts  driven  near  the 
water's  edge,  to  which  the  seine  was  to  be  secured ;  and, 
as  the  flood-tide  was  now  pretty  well  done  running,  we 
were  just  in  time  to  see  the  commencement  of  the  sport. 
As  we  were  thus  seated  upon  the  bank,  we  could  see 
whole  shoals  of  the  unsuspecting  salmon  swimming 
quietly  up  stream  with  the  slackening  tide ;  and,  as  this 
latter  obtained  its  height,  the  seine  was  drawn  tightly 
from  post  to  post  and  its  foot  secured  to  the  bottom  by 
heavy  stones.  Thus  all  of  the  fish  that  had  passed  up, 
and  which  would  naturally  return  to  the  sea  with  the 
ebbing  tide,  would  be  stopped  by  this  seine  and  fall 
an  easy  prey  to  their  active  enemies. 

It  was  an  exciting  moment  when  the  first  returning 
shoal  brought  up  against  the  unexpected  barrier,  the 
meshes  of  which  were  large  enough  to  let  the  small  fry 
pass,  but  at  the  same  time  sufficiently  small  to  arrest  for 
the  time  the  larger  ones,  if  not  to  stop  them  altogether. 
Any  one  who  has  ever  seen  a  well-filled  seine  hauled  upon 
a  beach  can  well  imagine  the  foaming  state  into  which 
the  closely-packed  fish  soon  lashed  the  water;  and,  when 


400  HOW   THEY  MULTIPLY   BY   THREE. 

a  dozen  or  more  men  waded  in  among  them  with  short, 
heavy  clubs,  and  commenced  striking  right  and  left  at  the 
heads  of  the  largest  as  they  darted  around,  the  excite- 
ment of  the  scene  and  the  lashing  of  the  waters  in- 
creased tenfold.  I  had  never  before  imagined  that  so 
many  fish  could  be  taken  in  so  short  a  time ;  we  were 
certainly  not  on  the  spot  over  ten  minutes  after  they 
began ;  and  yet,  as  we  marched  ofi"  with  a  fine  salmon 
added  to  our  former  loads,  they  must  have  already 
thrown  at  least  a  ton-weight  of  noble  fish  upon  the  banks. 

There  they  were  received  by  the  women  and  children, 
who,  with  a  sharp  knife  and  piece  of  board  each,  soon 
multiplied  their  original  unity  by  the  number  three :  that 
is,  they  would  seize  a  salmon,  averaging  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-eight  inches,  by  the  gills  with  the  left  hand,  lay 
him  out  on  the  board,  and  before  you  could  snap  your 
finger  twice  he  would  be  divided  into  three  pieces,  of 
which  the  head,  tail,  and  backbone  constituted  one,  and 
the  two  sides  the  remaining.  These  latter  were  thrown 
in  a  pile  by  themselves,  with  some  regard  to  cleanliness ; 
but  the  former  were  pitched  about  in  the  dirt  in  every 
direction,  not  because  they  were  not  to  be  used,  but  sim- 
ply from  the  fact  that  they  were  to  be  cured  as  winter 
provender  for  the  dogs,  horses,  and  cows.  We  had 
already  seen  vast  quantities  of  them  both  hanging  over 
the  fires  in  their  houses,  and  had,  as  I  have  already  re- 
marked, seen  a  cow  crunch  up  a  head,  tail,  and  backbone^ 
with  evident  relish.  And  this  I  do  not  wish  to  be  re- 
garded as  a  "fish-story,"  for  it  is  true,  though  doubtless 
curious^  and  it  is  as  a  curious  truth  that  I  introduce  it. 

I  have  said  that  we  did  not  remain  at  this  scene  of 


"WHAT   THEY    DESIRE    MOST.  401 

wholesale  slaughter  more  than  ten  minutes,  and  must 
now  acknowledge  that,  after  the  first  excitement  of  seeing 
so  many  fine  fish  caught  had  passed  away,  I  was  taken 
with  a  fit  of  begrudging  disgust — if  I  may  be  allowed  the 
expression — that  rendered  a  further  stay  rather  unpleasant 
than  otherwise.  "We  had  been  on  salt  provisions  so  long 
that  it  looked  like  sinful  waste  to  destroy  so  many  noble 
fish  in  a  few  short  minutes,  w^hile  the  pools  of  blood 
about  the  boards  and  the  peculiar  fishy  odour  that  per- 
vaded the  atmosphere  gave  rise  to  disgust;  hence  the 
combined  feeling  of  "begrudging  disgust." 

Well,  w^e  left  them,  and,  as  we  did  so,  pointed  to  the 
piles  of  fish  and  then  to  the  ship,  giving  them  to  under- 
stand that  if  they  would  bring  some  on  board  we  would 
give  them  tobacco  in  exchange.  They  were  like  the 
Kamtchadales  of  the  coal-mine  village, — more  in  favour 
of  trading  for  liquor  than  any  other  article ;  but  this  we 
did  not  encourage,  simply  from  motives  of  humanity  ;  and  it 
is  to  be  greatly  regretted  that  all  ships  that  break  in  thus 
upon  their  innocent  solitude  should  not  pursue  a  similar 
course  of  conduct.  I  cannot  imagine  a  more  weighty 
moral  responsibility  than  that  which  attaches  itself  to  the 
bearing  of  persons  visiting,  for  the  first  time,  these  and 
similarly-benighted  branches  of  the  great  human  family; 
and  yet  it  seems  to  be  an  invariable  fact  that  primitive 
savages,  in  their  first  intercourse  with  the  more  cultivated 
members  of  their  genus,  are  offered  every  thing  calcu- 
lated to  increase  their  degradation,  while  all  ennobling 
actions  and  truths  are  further  than  ever  removed  from 
their  reach.  But  to  return  to  Ola  and  the  manner  in 
which  the  simple  natives  complied  with  our  intimation 


402  NEVER  MIND  ZE  EXPENSE. 

in  regard  to  sending  us  oS  a  part  of  the  fruits  of  their 
evening's  labour.  We  had  not  been  on  board  ship  an 
hour  when  the  quartermaster  reported  three  boat-loads  of 
fish  as  having  arrived  alongside,  and  wished  to  know  if 
they  were  to  be  passed  on  board. 

"  Oh  yes,"  replied  the  first  lieutenant;  "let  them  come: 
I  suppose  we  can  look  out  for  them." 

So  we  heard  nothing  more  about  it,  until,  happening  to 
go  on  deck,  we  saw  piles  upon  piles  of  the  most  superb 
salmon.  I  suppose  there  must  have  been  three  or  four 
tons  of  them,  and  how  we  were  to  use  tbem  was  now  the 
question.  I  believe  (to  the  best  of  my  memory)  that  we 
paid  two  plugs  of  tobacco  (two  pounds)  for  each  boat- 
load,— certainly  not  more  than  two  or  three  dollars'  worth 
of  articles  for  the  entire  quantity ;  and,  as  I  have  already 
said,  there  were  several  tons'  weight  on  our  decks.  I 
could  not  help  thinking  how  fine  a  business  some  enter- 
prising Yankee  packer  might  drive  for  three  or  four 
months  in  the  year  could  he  only  visit  Ola  in  a  small 
vessel  filled  with  barrels,  salt,  and  men  who  understand 
the  business  of  pickling  salmon.  He  might  readily  fill 
his  ship  and  find  a  certain  market  along  the  coast  of  Cali- 
fornia, Mexico,  and  South  America;  or  he  might  even 
run  over  to  the  coast  of  China,  should  he  fail  elsewhere. 

Well,  the  question  now  was,  what  were  we  to  do  with 
60  many  fish  ?  And,  as  no  one  could  well  answer  it,  the 
word  w^as  passed  throughout  the  ship  for  all  the  messes 
to  take  what  they  wanted,  '■'■iDithoui  any  regard  to  expense;'' 
as  Ilartman  once  remarked  to  a  "nonplussed"  waiter 
when  calling  for  a  glass  of  water: — "A  glass  of  water, 
waiter,  and  never  mind  ze  expense." 


FINE  LARGE  SALMON  BY  THE  TON.         403 

This  word  was  no  sooner  passed  around  the  decks  than 
all  the  salt  and  old  beef  and  pork  barrels  in  the  ship 
made  their  appearance  about  the  fish-piles,  and  before 
the  hammocks  were  piped  down  that  night  a  dozen  or 
more  of  them  were  filled  with  brine  and  cleaned  salmon ; 
and  there  were  still  so  many  left  that,  when  the  time  came 
to  wash  the  decks  o&  next  morning,  the  officer  of  the 
deck  had  to  throw  quantities  of  them  overboard.  It  was 
more  than  a  week  before  we  could  wash  the  ship  clear 
of  the  smell  of  fish ;  and  I  doubt  if  any  of  the  officers  or 
crew  of  the  "old  John"  will  ever  again  relish  that  article 
of  food  with  any  thing  like  their  former  zest. 

Even  before  thus  getting  our  decks  clear  of  the  sui-plus 
fish,  the  "old  John's"  restless  anchor  was  again  at  the 
cat-head,  as  with  low  steam  and  furled  sails  we  continued 
the  survey  of  the  coast  along  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of 
Taousk. 

The  weather  w^as  calm  and  clear  at  first,  but  the  next 
day  it  came  on  to  blow  fresh,  and  we  were  forced  to  an- 
chor again  for  shelter  well  in  under  the  land.  Finally, 
the  bad  spell  blew  by,  and  we  were  once  more  underway 
for  Fabius  Island,  Bay  of  Taousk,  where  we  hoped  to  find 
a  plentiful  supply  of  wood  and  water.  Arrived  at  our 
destination,  we  fell  in  with  a  whaler,  whose  captain  kindly 
came  on  board  and  piloted  us  in  to  a  good  anchorage. 
We  found  a  good  berth  well  in  with  the  island,  let  go  our 
anchor,  and  sent  the  dingy  in  charge  of  an  officer  to  exa- 
mine a  spot  where  the  whaler  had  told  us  that  a  stream 
of  water  ran  down  from  the  mountain  into  the  sea. 
When  the  boat  returned,  her  officer  confirmed  the  state- 
ment of  the  whaler;  and  yet,  as  one  looked  at  Fabius 


404  A   GREAT    SPREE   ON    WHORTLEBERRIES. 

Island,  it  was  difficult  to  imagine  how  any  amount  of 
water  could  flow  from  its  breast.  It  was  a  double  peak 
rising  bodily  out  of  the  sea  and  composed  entirely  of  its 
rocky  beach,  ravined  sides,  and  double  crest.  There  were 
no  signs  of  water  as  you  looked  upon  its  general  appear- 
ance, and  we  long  wondered  where  it  could  come  from: 
our  wonder  was  subsequently  solved  by  the  captain,  who 
ascended  to  its  summit  and  found  there  in  the  sheltered 
ravine,  between  the  two  peaks,  an  immense  bed  of  snow, 
whose  gradual  melting  supplied  the  valuable  stream. 
The  whole  island  was  not  more  than  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference, and  its  elevation  was  probably  six  hundred  feet ; 
it  was  distant  about  one-half  or  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
from  the  mainland,  and  its  rocky  shores  were  strewed  with 
the  finest  drift-wood.  Its  sides  and  summits  also  proved 
to  be  plentifully  covered  with  a  species  of  whortleberry, 
which  we  gathered  in  large  quantities  and  enjoyed  as 
men  only  can  enjoy  such  things  who  have  been  on  the 
salt  sea  for  months.  I  shall  always  remember  Fabius 
Island  as  long  as  my  appetite  and  taste  for  whortleberries 
last. 

We  were  anchored  there  three  or  four  days,  engaged  in 
the  work  of  wooding,  watering,  &c.,  and  during  that  time 
we  got  up  several  bear-hunts  through  the  ravines  of  the 
island  without  success.  There  were  but  two  indications 
of  animal  life  ever  having  existed  along  its  rocky  sides 
and  berry-covered  heights,  and  these  were  the  carcase  of 
a  dead  whale  that  had  been  washed  upon  the  rocks,  and 
the  whitening  bones  of  some  unfortunate  bear,  who  had 
probably  died  from  old  age  or  the  efl"ects  of  a  distant  shot 
from  some  passing  whale-boat.     Our  daily  hunts,  there- 


WE   FEAST   ON   WILD    DUCKS.  405 

fore,  resolved  themselves  iuto  wbortleberry-gatlierings ; 
and  I  don't  know  but  that  we  enjoyed  these  latter  as 
much  or  more  than  we  should  have  done  a  bear-steak. 

This  island  formed  quite  a  fine  harbour  with  the  main- 
land, and  we  made  a  thorough  survey  of  it  before  leaving. 
There  were  no  signs  of  habitations  either  on  it  or  on  the 
shores  of  the  adjacent  main,  the  nearest  settlement  being 
a  place  called  Armen,  located  some  seven  miles  to  the 
westward ;  and  of  it  I  shall  speak  shortly. 

On  the  second  day  after  anchoring,  and  although  it  was 
well  known  that  we  were  to  carry  the  ship  to  Armen  a-s 
soon  as  the  wooding  and  watering  was  accomplished,  the 
entire  mess,  with  the  exception  of  myself  and  an  engi- 
neer, took  our  lightest-pulling  boat  and  started  to  visit  it 
without  delay :  we  had  heard  from  our  friend  the  whaling- 
captain,  who  had  piloted  us  in  to  our  anchorage,  that 
wild  ducks  were  as  plentiful  there  as  fish  had  been  at  Ola ; 
and,  having  our  appetites  thus  sharpened  for  game,  the 
majority  of  the  mess  became  impatient  and  started  as 
above  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  supply. 

They  had  a  hard  time  of  it, — much  harder  than  any  one 
had  supposed  at  all  probable, — and  returned  at  midnight 
pretty  well  fagged  out.  They  had  had  to  pull  themselves 
there  and  back,  for  the  crew  were  employed  fore  and  aft, 
and  the  first  lieutenant,  who  himself  formed  one  of  the 
party,  would  not  consent  that  the  work  should  be  retarded. 
They  brought  back  with  them,  however,  ample  payment 
in  the  shape  of  sixty-three  broad-billed  ducks,  four  of 
which  we  had  for  breakfast,  and  as  many  more  for  dinner 
on  the  day  following. 

Our  friend  the  whaler  partook  of  the  latter  with  us, 


406  COLD-WEATHER   YARNS. 

and  paid  for  his  dinner  by  telling  us  many  amusing 
anecdotes  of  whaling  and  arctic  life.  Among  other 
things  he  told  us  of  a  friend  of  his,  the  captain  of  a  jSTew 
Bedford  whaler,  who,  having  remained  about  this  island 
too  late  in  the  season,  hoping  to  fill  his  ship  with  oil,  had 
got  her  frozen  in,  and  been  thus  kept  there  until  the 
spring  thaw  came  on.  During  the  severe  winter  which 
ensued,  the  whole  ocean  became  one  solid  mass  of  ice, 
and  the  island  and  mainland  were  covered  to  a  great 
depth  by  incessant  falls  of  snow.  While  thus  frozen  in, 
liis  ship  was  often  visited  by  bear,  until  they  began  to 
recognise  it  as  an  object  from  which  they  were  always 
fired  upon,  after  which  they  gave  it  a  wide  berth.  He 
had  often,  he  said,  seen  these  animals  miles  out  to  sea- 
ward on  the  ice,  as  long  as  it  was  firm  and  solid ;  but  as 
soon  as  it  began  to  thaw  they  seemed  to  know  that  it 
was  no  longer  a  safe  promenade,  and  confined  themselves 
to  the  scarcely-recognisable  beach. 

He  also  confirmed  previous  accounts,  of  which  we 
had  both  heard  and  read,  as  to  the  inordinate  amount 
of  food  that  is  required  to  maintain  animal  heat  during 
severe  winters.  Many  bear  had  been  killed  from  the 
ships,  he  said,  whose  meat  proved  a  most  seasonable 
auxiliary  to  their  regular  rations,  which  would  have  been 
exhausted  long  before  the  return  of  temperate  weather, 
had  it  not  been  for  that.  He  had  heard  of  one  man 
eating  fifteen  pounds  of  bear-meat  in  a  single  day;  and, 
although  Parry,  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  other  arctic 
explorers,  mention  a  still  greater  quantity  as  a  matter 
of  every-day  consumption,  still,  it  was  curious  and  inte- 
resting to  have  it  confirmed  in  this  way. 


WHAT   WAS   NECESSARY   TO    OUR    HAPPINESS.  407 

I  shall  never  forget  the  feeling  of  iutense  satisfaction 
with  Avhich  we  sat  down  to  the  dinner  at  which  we 
heard  all  of  these  and  various  other  pieces  of  informa- 
tion. All  that  we  wanted  to  make  us  'perfectly  happy  was 
a  few  side-dishes  of  vegetables  and  a  letter  each  from 
home.  "We  had  been  without  these  two  luxuries  even 
longer  than  we  had  without  fresh  meat,  and  yearned 
for  the  one  nearly  as  much  as  the  other.  We  had  then 
only  a  faint  idea  of  the  treat  that  awaited  us  at  Armen 
in  the  shape  of  an  abundant  supply  of  turnips;  for, 
though  many  whalers  had  spoken  positively  as  to  their 
being  grown  there,  still,  we  had  been  told  the  same 
thing  of  Ola,  and  had  been  disappointed.  Moreover, 
our  party,  who  had  succeeded  in  getting  the  ducks, 
had  neither  seen  nor  heard  of  them ;  hence,  we  were 
in  a  miserable  state  of  doubtful  anxiety.  Nevertheless, 
as  soon  as  we  had  filled  with  wood  and  water,  we  con- 
tinued the  coast-line  with  hopeful  hearts : — with  intoxi- 
cating visions  of  huge  turnips  ahead  and  the  boiling 
water  of  the  revolving  screw  astern. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

"WE    VISIT      ARMEN     AND     BUY    TURNIPS     "BY    THE     PATCH,"     ENCOUNTER    A 
VITUPERATIVE      GENTLEMAN      AND      SOME      VERY      PRETTY    YOUNG      LADIES, 

AND    RETURN    ON    BOARD AFTER   WHICH    WE    STEAM    FARTHER    DOWN    THE 

COAST,     PAY    A     NOCTURNAL    VISIT    TO    ANOTHER    SETTLEMENT,     AND     END 
BY    ATTEMPTING    TO    WADE     A    SIBERIAN     FORD. 

We  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  which  Armen 
is  located,  after  a  two-hours'  run  from  Fabius  Island,  and, 
after  having  let  go  our  anchor  in  four  fathoms  of  water, 
called  away  three  boats  and  prepared  to  go  on  shore. 
It  was  a  fine  day,  and  we  had  the  whole  of  it  before  us ; 
for  the  captain  had  determined  to  let  us  have  one  day  to 
ourselves,  if  only  to  enable  us  to  lay  in  a  good  supply 
of  ducks  and  turnips. 

Two  of  these  boats  were  cutters,  while  the  third  was 
the  tomtit,  which  four  of  us  took,  thinking  we  would  be 
able  to  sail  on  shore  sooner  than  the  heavier  boats  would 
be  able  to  pull.  The  breeze  was  blowing  quite  fresh 
off  the  land,  and  had  got  up  quite  a  little  sea ;  but  then 
it  was  not  dead  ahead,  and  we  expected  to  get  along 
quite  swimmingly  by  making  long  and  short  legs.  We 
therefore,  having  provided  ourselves  with  an  ample  sup- 
ply of  articles  of  tratfic,  such  as  tobacco,  matches,  gaudy 
handkerchiefs,  old  clothes,  &c.,  stepped  over  the  side  into 
our  little  boat,  and,  making  the  boys  get  out,  shoved 
off  in   grand   style,  hoisted   our   sail,  and   stood   down 

the  coast  with  the  boldness  of  so  many  sheep. 
408 


WE    MAKE  THE    BEST   OF   A   BAD   BARGAIN.  409 

There  were  four  of  us  in  this  party, — the  doctor,  Law- 
ton,  Hartman,  and  myself;  and  the  other  boats  con- 
tained the  captain  and  the  rest  of  the  mess,  with  the 
exception  of  a  watch-officer  and  one  of  the  assistant 
engineers,  who  were  left  to  look  out  for  the  "old  John." 
Our  first  leg  was  a  long  one ;  and,  when  we  arrived  at 
its  end  and  put  around  on  the  other  tack,  the  wind 
provokingly  hauled  and  knocked  us  off  so  much  that 
it  was  as  much  as  we  could  do  to  return  without  losing 
ground.  We  soon  saw  that  sailing  under  the  then 
circumstances  was  any  thing  but  the  tomtit's  forte; 
and  so,  when  we  had  sailed  dead  to  leeward  of  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  the  sail  was  "doused,"  and  two  of 
us  took  to  the  oars. 

We  now  looked  with  envious  eye  upon  the  cutters, 
which  were  well  in  with  the  river,  wished  that  we  had 
taken  passage  in  them  instead  of  trusting  to  our  little 
cockle-shell,  and  leaned  back  upon  our  oars  with  the 
determination  of  making  the  best  of  a  bad  bargain. 
This  we  soon  found  to  be  tough  work,  and  Hartman 
and  myself,  who  had  undertaken  to  pull  for  the  first 
half-hour,  were  glad  to  accept  the  relief  of  Lawton  and 
the  doctor  before  half  the  time  had  expired.  The  sea, 
too,  was  much  rougher  than  it  seemed  to  be  while  we 
were  under  sail,  and,  instead  of  spray  breaking  over 
the  weather  side  and  wetting  us  partially,  we  now  took 
in  whole  bucketfuls,  that  soon  soaked  us  to  the  skin. 
We  began  to  wish  with  increased  fervour  that  we  had 
taken  a  seat  in  one  of  the  cutters,  and  would,  I  doubt 
not,  have  returned  to  the  ship  had  we  not  been  afraid 
of  being  laughed  at. 


410  IT  VOS   YEATl-FUL   EXCELLENT. 

In  this  way  a  couple  of  hours  rolled  by,  when  we  finally 
gained  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  were  glad  enough  to 
land  on  the  bank  and  track  our  boat  up  against  the 
strong  ebb-tide  a  la  caual-boat;  but  even  this  was  no 
amusement,  for  the  bank  was  alternately  of  mud  and 
round  stones,  which  made  the  walking  very  bad,  and  we 
could  see  no  signs  of  a  village.  Still,  we  knew  that  it 
must  be  on  the  river  somewJiere,  and  so  continued  our 
pleasure-trip.  Another  hour  passed  in  this  mule-like 
occupation,  and  then  we  rounded  a  point  and  were  grati- 
fied by  seeing  the  cutters  and  a  strange  whale-boat 
moored  to  the  bank  a  few  hundred  yards  ahead,  and  the 
scattering  houses  of  a  very  respectable-looking  village 
looming  up  in  their  rear.  We  felt  tired  enough  as  we 
reached  the  nearest  boat  and  secured  the  tomtit  to  her 
by  the  painter,  and  inwardly  vowed  never  to  enter  upon 
another  pleasure-party  of  discovery,  though,  like  Hart- 
man  and  the  rest,  I  expressed  myself  highly  edified  by 
the  pull  when  the  more  fortunate  passengers  by  the 
cutters  asked  us  in  regard  to  the  "time  we  had  had." 

"Oh!  it  VOS  fine  time!"  said  Hartman,  in  answer 
to  one  of  their  questions.  "It  vos  fear-ful  excellent;  I 
hope  I  always  go  in  ze  Thomas  Tit;"  and  the  rest  of  us 
upheld  him  simply  to  avoid  being  joked. 

We  found  the  people  of  Armen  the  same  exactly  as 
those  at  Ola,  only  they  lived  in  the  houses  in  which  we 
found  them  all  the  year  round,  instead  of  retreating 
back  into  the  country  as  the  winter  came  on.  There  was 
also  living  with  them  an  aged  Russian  soldier,  whom  the 
officer  of  the  strange  whale-boat  told  us  had  been  there 
ever  since  he  had  first  cruised  in  those  waters,  and  whom 


WE    BUY   TURNIPS    BY   THE    PATCH.  411 

rumour  (rumour  exists  even  on  those  out-of-the-way 
shores)  proclaimed  to  be  a  perpetual  exile  from  his  native 
land.  He  was  evidently  looked  up  to  with  great  respect 
by  the  natives,  had  his  own  comfortable  log-cabin,  as 
many  bear-skins  as  would  have  kept  a  dozen  men  warm, 
and  a  table  that  boasted  cups  and  saucers,  plates,  knives 
and  forks,  a  broken-topped  sugar-dish,  &c. 

As  we  left  our  boat  and  climbed  the  muddy  bank  of 
the  river,  we  were  met  by  some  half-dozen  of  the  natives, 
who  made  signs  to  us  that  our  friends  were  scattered 
about  in  the  different  houses,  and  that  we  could  do  no 
better  than  follow  their  example.  So  we  trudged  along 
Avith  our  "peddlers'  packs"  under  our  left  arms,  and  a 
large  bag  in  our  right  hands  that  was  destined  to  hold 
"as  many  turnips  as  we  could  get."  These  latter,  to  our 
great  delight,  proved  quite  plentiful :  we  just  walked  into 
a  patch  of  them,  and,  holding  up  a  bottle  of  molasses, 
motioned  the  owners  to  mark  out  as  large  a  place  on  the 
ground  as  they  were  willing  to  give  for  it,  and  then  fell  to 
work  to  transfer  them,  tops  and  all,  from  the  ground  to  our 
bags  in  the  shortest  possible  time.  In  this  way  we  got  a 
good  many,  for  our  steward  had  brought  on  shore  a  whole 
demijohn  of  molasses  that  we  had  never  been  able  to  use, 
and  which  had  more  than  once  been  on  the  point  of  being 
thrown  overboard,  and  it  now  sold  at  about  the  rate  of  a 
quart  to  a  bushel  of  turnips,  which  soon  filled  our  bags. 
They  were  very  large,  tender  and  juicy ;  and  the  whaler 
told  us  that  they  had  been  only  planted  about  six  weeks. 
I  am  nothing  of  a  gardener  myself,  but  it  seemed  to  me 
that  six  weeks  was  a  very  short  time  for  turnips  to  grow 
as  large  as  pint-pots. 


412  HOW   THEY   KILL   DUCKS. 

We  found  the  houses  at  Arraen  of  a  single  style,  they 
being  built  on  the  ground,  like  the  larger  ones  at  Ola,  and 
rigged  out  in  the  same  style  as  far  as  the  inner  arrange- 
ments were  concerned.  Instead  of  fish,  however,  we 
here  found  ducks  in  profusion  hung  up  overhead  and 
undergoing  the  process  of  being  smoked.  The  mate  of 
the  whaler,  who  had  been  so  fortunate  as  to  witness  one 
of  their  ducking-scenes,  thus  described  it. 

"The  ducks  had  collected  in  dense  flocks  on  a  low, 
marshy  piece  of  ground,  and  were  feeding  very  quietly, 
when  suddenly  dozens  of  natives  rushed  in  among  them, 
and,  striking  right  and  left  with  their  clubs,  soon  killed 
a  great  number  and  put  the  rest  to  flight." 

It  seems  that  they  were  mostly  only  half  fledged, 
and  thus  rendered  unable  to  fly  when  hotly  pursued.  I 
did  not  witness  one  of  these  novel  scenes  myself;  but  I 
saw  hundreds  of  smoked  ducks  hanging  up  in  their 
houses,  and  the  natives  made  signs  that  they  knocked 
them  down  in  great  numbers  with  their  sticks.  We 
traded  for  a  number  of  these  smoked  ducks,  and  found 
that  they  made  a  delightful  hash  after  the  fresher  ones 
were  all  gone. 

We  found  neither  cattle  or  milk  here  as  at  Ola,  although 
the  settlement  was  evidently  better  ofi'  as  far  as  worldly 
goods  were  concerned ;  but  we  got  several  baskets  of  ver^^ 
fine  whortleberries  that  would  have  filled  a  peck-measure 
probably,  for  which  we  gave  the  almost-emptied  demi- 
john of  molasses  and  a  half-pound  of  tobacco.  They 
made  signs  that  they  would  like  to  sell  us  a  great  many 
more  at  the    same  price ;   but,  as   they  pointed   to  the 


MOLASSES — NOT    BRANDY.  413 

hills,  and  as  we  had  little  time  to  remain,  we  did  not 
encourage  them  to  take  a  long  walk  for  nothing. 

These  people  seemed  slightly  more  advanced  than 
those  of  Ola,  as  far  as  association  with  the  world  was  con- 
cerned. They  had  a  better  idea  of  the  value  of  money, 
and  had  learned — in  a  few  cases — to  be  impudent  and 
presuming.  They  had  also  picked  up  a  few  words  of 
broken  English  from  the  whalers,  as  well  as  the  pre- 
viously-mentioned impudence,  and  were  evidently  in  the 
possession  of  more  than  one  of  our  vices.  One  fellow  I 
remember  in  particular,  who,  having  mistaken  a  bottle 
of  molasses,  the  neck  of  which  protruded  from  my 
pocket,  for  one  of  brandy,  beckoned  me  into  his  house, 
intimating,  by  words  and  signs,  that  he  had  a  great  many 
squirrel-skins  that  he  w^ould  like  to  exchange  for  it ;  so  I 
followed  him,  and  found  a  house  very  much  like  that  of 
the  headman  at  Ola,  only  he  had  ducks  instead  of  fish 
smoking  overhead. 

"We  seated  ourselves  on  a  locker-like  seat  that  went  all 
around  the  hut  inside  of  the  bunks,  and  he  immediately 
began  ransacking  an  old  chest,  from  which  he  shortly 
produced  thirty  or  forty  verj^  inferior-looking  skins,  that 
were  worth — -judging  from  the  price  of  others  for  which 
we  had  traded — probably  a  pint  of  molasses,  or  something 
of  that  sort,  and  which  he  now  held  up  and  offered  me 
for  the  "hot  branda,"  as  he  pronounced  bottle  of  brandy. 

I  took  the  bottle  out  of  my  pocket,  and,  holding  it  up 
before  him,  said,  "Molasses, — not  brandy,"  at  which  his 
countenance  fell  awfully,  and  he  lost  all  relish  for  trading. 
As  skins  were  getting  scarce,  however,  and  I  still  wanted 
some  more,  I  took  off  mv  silk  neck-handkerchief,  which 


414  YOU  NO  dobre! 

had  cost  me  at  the  rate  of  six  dollars  the  half-dozen  in  liew 
York,  and  offered  it  to  him ;  but  he  shook  his  head  and 
put  them  back  in  the  chest,  muttering,  "  Branda !  branda !" 

"This  cost  one  dollar,"  I  said,  as  I  opened  the  hand- 
kerchief and  showed  him  that  it  was  not  worn. 

Imagine  my  surprise — almost  anger — when  he  turned 
sharply  around  and  said,  "  You  lie  !  not  cost  dollar, — only 
shillin'.  You  no  dobre,"  (you  are  not  a  good  man.)  I 
immediately  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  he  was  a 
worthless  fellow,  unworthy  of  further  association,  and  so 
rearranged  my  pack  and  continued  my  stroll  through  the 
village. 

We  fell  in  here,  as  at  Ola,  with  several  very  'preity  girls. 
The  men,  and  most  of  the  women,  as  a  general  rule,  were 
tanned ;  but  these  girls  were  of  a  comparatively  fair  com- 
plexion and  possessed  of  as  rosy  cheeks  as  one  would 
wish  to  see.  They  were  the  most  refreshing  sight  that  we 
fell  in  with  along  those  dreary  shores,  and,  what  is  more, 
they  stood  as  high  as  possible  in  the  estimation  of  the 
whalers  for  their  modesty  and  general  correctness  of 
behaviour.  These  people  all  wore  little  crosses  around 
their  necks,  and  gave  us  to  understand  that  they  were 
visited  once  a  year  by  their  priest,  who,  upon  these  occa- 
sions, generally  remain  a  month,  to  baptize  the  children 
and  teach  them  how  to  be  good.  They,  as  well  as  all  the 
natives  whom  we  fell  in  with  in  that  sea,  hold  the  faith 
of  the  Greek  Church. 

At  length  the  hour  of  departure  arrived,  and  we  took 
leave  of  them  by  shaking  hands  all  around  before  getting 
into  the  boats.  The  fellow  who  had  expressed  such 
decided  doubts  as  to  mv  veracitv,  however,  I  treated  with 


A    PARTING   SALUTE.  415 

"silent  contempt,"  and  was  retaliated  upon,  as  we  hoisted 
the  sail,  by  his  singing  out,  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  "  You 
lie  !  you  no  dobre!"  whereupon  I  felt  very  small,  though 
it  was  I  who  had  only  told  the  truth,  while  he  had  been 
rude  and  inhospitable.  I  am  ashamed  to  say  that  I  was 
so  weak  as  to  experience  a  desire  to  give  the  rascal  a 
good  kicking  with  my  heavy  expedition-boots.  The 
breeze,  which  had  caused  us  so  much  hard  work  in  the 
morning,  was  now  in  our  favour,  and  soon  wafted  us  once 
more  alongside  of  the  "  old  John,"  when  the  anchor  was 
at  once  hove  up,  and  we  continued  our  survey  toward 
another  settlement,  called  Tavisk  or  Taousk.  This  was 
the  fourth  and  last  settlement  that  we  fell  in  with  from 
the  time  of  striking  the  west  coast  of  Kamtschatka  up  to 
our  arrival  at  Ayan  on  the  east  coast  of  Siberia.  There 
were  two  others  that  we  did  not  reach, — a  small  town 
at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Penjinks,  and  the  larger  one 
of  Okotsk,  both  of  which  we  were  forced  to  pass  for 
want  of  time.  These  two  latter,  and  the  four  previously- 
mentioned,  are  the  only  settlements  that  we  could  hear 
of  along  that  entire  coast-line,  commencing  at  Cape 
Lapatka,  the  most  southern  point  of  Kamtschatka,  and 
ending  at  Ayan,  which  is  within  a  few  score  miles  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Amoor  River. 

The  long  northern  day  was  pretty  well  ended  as  we  let 
go  our  anchor  off'  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  the  banks 
of  which  we  had  been  told  that  Taousk  was  located;  and 
night  was  so  close  at  hand  that  we  could  only  tell,  from 
the  reflected  rays  of  light  that  beamed  from  the  river's 
winding  bosom,  that  Ave  had  struck  the  right  place.  It 
was  so  late,  in  fact,  that  we  hesitated  as  to  the  propriety 


416  A  ROMANTIC  UNDERTAKING. 

of  attempting  to  land  tliat  night ;  but  a  spirit  of  adven- 
ture seemed  to  grow  among  us  with  the  darkening 
shades,  and,  in  less  than  a  half-hour  after  the  anchor 
was  down,  two  boats  were  in  the  water,  and  every  officer 
in  the  ship,  save  myself,  the  purser,  and  an  engineer, 
were  seated  in  them,  and  pulling  through  the  darkness 
to  find  the  mouth  of  a  river  that  they  knew  nothing  in  the 
icorld  about,  and  to  visit  a  town  the  very  existence  of 
which  we  only  knew  from  hearsay.  And  now,  as  I  did 
not  go  myself,  I  shall  have  to  give  the  account  of  the 
trip  as  I  myself  heard  it  the  next  morning  after  their 
return.  I  even  forget  now  who  was  the  narrator:  but 
these  are  the  facts ;  and  it  is  said  that  facts  speak  for 
themselves.  This  is  the  sense  of  what  we  who  remained 
on  board  heard  the  next  morning  after  the  party  had 
returned  in  company  with  a  number  of  natives,  two  of 
whom  (priests  of  the  Greek  Church)  took  passage  in  our 
boats,  while  the  others  came  off  in  their  own  half-bateau, 
half-canoe-like  "dug-outs." 

•.,  Shortly  after  leaving  the  ship,  the  night  had  closed 
around  them  so  fast  that  they  soon  lost  sight  of  both  ship 
and  shore ;  but,  as  they  had  a  compass  and  lantern  in 
each  boat,  and  had  obtained  their  course  before  leaving 
the  ship,  they  continued  pulling  steadily  in  the  direction 
pointed  out  by  the  needle,  and,  taking  care  not  to  part 
company,  soon  came  within  reach  of  the  sound  of 
breakers,  along  which  they  then  pulled  until  a  dark  spot 
on  the  beach  told  them  that  they  were  abreast  of  the 
river.  They  then  closed  in  with  it  cautiously,  and  finally 
found  themselves  entering  a  swiftly-running  stream 
whose  mouth  was  whitened  by  the  breaking  surf,  and 


ANY   THING   BUT    PLEASANT    AMUSEMENT.  417 

whose  turbid  waters  came  down  to  the  sea  with  such 
violence  as  to  drift  them  out  more  than  once  after  they 
thouglit  themselves  securely  entered.  Upon  one  of  these 
occasions  they  were  cast  upon  a  sand-bank  just  outside 
of  the  month  and  narrowly  escaped  being  rolled  over, 
so  furiously  ran  the  current.  This  was  harder  work 
than  they  had  bargained  for;  and,  after  pulling  a  half- 
hour  or  more  and  making  very  little  progress,  they  were 
forced  to  land  upon  the  beach  and  resort  to  the  process 
of  "tracking." 

This  amusement  my  narrator  described  as  being  any 
thing  but  pleasant;  for  they  found  themselves  sinking 
over  the  ankle  in  the  mud  at  every  step,  or  stumbling 
over  loose  piles  of  stones  which  the  darkness  hid  from 
view :  still,  it  was  better  than  pulling  with  the  oars  all 
night  against  a  current  which  they  could  hardly  stem, 
and  so  they  hung  to  it  with  the  determination  of  neces- 
sity, and  were  in  the  end  rewarded  by  arriving  at  a 
village  on  the  left  bank,  which  they  rightly  concluded 
to  be  Taousk.  There  they  were  received  by  the  barking 
of  dogs,  the  bellowing  of  cattle,  and,  finally,  by  a  score 
of  natives,  who,  after  they  had  been  convinced  that  they 
were  not  a  detachment  of  the  Allies  bent  upon  burning 
their  town,  received  them  very  kindly,  and  conducted 
them  to  the  house  of  the  priest,  who,  it  seems,  was  the 
"headman"  in  temporal  as  well  as  spiritual  affairs. 

By  this  personage  they  were  received  more  kindly 
than  ever.  He  got  them  up  a  glorious  supper  of  milk, 
butter,  brown  bread,  cold  duck,  solidified  reindeer-milk, 
&c.,  and,  after  that  was  over,  drank  a  half-bottle  of 
French   punch,    which   the    doctor   or  Carnes   had  pre- 


418  HOSPITALITY   OF   TAOUSK. 

sented  him  with,  and,  pointing  to  various  piles  of  bear- 
skins on  which  they  were  to  pass  the  night,  retired  with 
his  half-empty  bottle  to  seek  his  own  repose.  Our  fel- 
lows found  the  skins  any  thing  but  uncomfortable  quar- 
ters. They  were,  unlike  those  we  had  previously  seen, 
very  clean  and  sweet-smelling;  and  they  slept  soundly 
upon  and  under  them  until  daylight,  when  they  were 
aroused  by  the  furious  barking  of  apparently  hundreds 
of  dogs,  who  they  subsequently  learned  had  been  alarmed 
by  the  proximity  of  a  bear  or  other  wild  animal. 

Taousk  was  the  largest  and  most  important  settlement 
we  had  yet  fallen  in  with.  Its  houses  were  strongly 
built  and  very  comfortable:  they  had  board  floorings, 
tables,  chairs,  and  windows,  and  a  population  of  nearly 
two  hundred.  Beef  was  far  from  scarce ;  but,  unfor- 
tunately, w^e  did  not  take  the  time  to  get  any  on  board: 
we  expected  soon  to  be  at  another  place,  called  Ayan, 
where  it  was  said  to  be  plentiful. 

Our  party  had  an  early  breakfast,  during  the  discus- 
sion of  which  the  priest  congratulated  them  upon  their 
safe  ascent  of  the  river,  giving  them  to  understand  that 
more  than  one  whale-boat  had  been  swamped  in  a  similar 
attempt,  and  intimating  that  they  had  made  a  narrow 
escape  from  the  sand-bank.  After  breakfast  they  wallced 
among  the  scattering  houses  for  some  time,  traded  with 
the  natives  for  some  milk  and  a  few  bear-skins,  and 
finally  returned  on  board  with  the  priest  and  his  native 
assistant. 

They  were  accompanied  by  some  of  the  natives  in  a 
large  canoe,  in  which  the  whole  party  returned  aft^r 
having  been  shown  around  the  ship  and  regaled  upon 


VARIOUS   WAYS    OP    CROSSING   A    FORD.  419 

salt  beef  and  pork,  sour  wheat-bread,  and  an  abundant 
supply  of  fine  strong  cofiiee.  This  latter  seemed  more 
grateful  to  them  than  any  thing  else;  and,  as  we  still 
had  a  fair  amount  on  hand,  we  gave  the  priest  several 
pounds  to  remember  us  by.  He  was  almost  as  delighted 
as  the  headman  of  the  coal-mine  had  been  when  promised 
his  cap  full  of  powder.  The  people  of  Taousk  were 
similar  to  those  of  Armen  and  Ola,  with  probably  a 
little  more  of  Ee-a-coute  blood  in  their  veins.  The  priest 
himself  was  a  Russian,  and  seemed  to  possess  great 
control  over  them. 

We  had  no  sooner  seen  our  guests  safely  started  for 
the  shore  than  the  anchor  was  as-ain  weit^hed  and  the 
survey  continued.  We  were  now  gradually  working 
our  way  to  the  southward,  stopping  every  few  days  to 
fill  up  with  drift-wood  from  the  beach,  and  meeting 
with  adventures  without  number.  I  will  relate  two  of 
these  by  way  of  varying  the  narrative,  but,  before  com- 
mencing, must  indulge  in  a  few  remarks  in  regard  to 
several  ways  of  fording  a  river. 

There  is  more  than  one  mode  of  crossing  a  ford.  One 
may  accomplish  the  feat  wuth  great  dignity  on  a  sure- 
footed horse  ;  or  he  may  wade  quietly  from  one  bank  to 
the  other;  and  then  again  he  ma}',  like  the  mountain-goat, 
"  leap  from  rock  to  rock,  to  the  imminent  terror  of  all 
beholders."  But  there  is  yet  another  mode, —  an  im- 
promptu one,  if  I  may  so  express  myself, —  which  is 
characterized  by  any  thing  but  dignity,  and  which  taxes 
a  man  with  unpleasant  suddenness  to  the  utmost  extent 
of  his  resources,  both  mental  and  physical.  I  allude  to 
the  only  mode  which  one  finds  at  his  disposal  when, 


420  WHICH    IS   THE    MOST   DESIRABLE? 

having  waded  to  about  the  centre  of  a  boiling  rapid, 
lie  all  at  once  feels  his  legs  swept  from  under  him  and 
himself  floundering  in  the  turbid  stream,  carried  furi- 
ously upon  its  uneven  breast  between  and  over  jagged 
rocks,  and  possessed  of  a  confused  idea  that  he  must 
get  to  one  bank  or  the  other  before  he  is  thrown,  bruised 
and  insensible,  into  the  dark  foaming  pool  which  gene- 
rally terminates  such  aifairs.  He  has  but  one  convic- 
tion— one  point — to  strive  for:  he  must  either  reach 
the  most  attainable  bank  before  he  is  cast  against  some 
rock  and  disabled,  or  he  must  be  cast  against  that  rock 
and  subsequently  drifted  into  the  whirling  pool  with 
broken  ribs  or  limbs,  and  a  disagreeably-slim  chance 
of  being  able  to  swim  with  those  that  are  left  sound. 

I  now  found  myself  in  a  position  such  as  this,  and  it 
happened  after  this  manner. 

The  "old  John,"  being  still  afloat,  had  managed  to 
carry  us  into  a  half-sheltered  bay,  where  she  let  go  her 
anchor,  and  despatched  her  boats  and  crew  to  the  beach 
to  cut  and  bring  on  board  a  supply  of  drift-wood,  to  be 
used  instead  of  coal,  as  this  latter  article  was  running 
quite  short. 

There  being  a  certainty  of  the  entire  day  being  con- 
sumed in  this  wa}-,  several  of  us  took  our  guns  and  struck 
back  into  the  country  in  search  of  a  flock  of  broad-billed 
ducks  that  the  doctor  had  discovered  near  the  beach,  and 
■which  he  had  driven  to  a  distant  lagoon  by  shooting  oS 
the  heads  of  two  of  their  number  with  his  small-bore 
Kentucky  rifle.  Always  on  the  alert  when  there  was 
game  within  reach,  this  indefatigable  sportsman  had 
landed  in  the  first  boat,  shot  ofl"  two  he^ads,  and  returned 


OUR    DUCKING-GROUND.  421 

on  board  for  a  double-barrelled  gun,  before  the  rest  of  us 
had  made  up  our  minds  that  we  would  hunt  at  all.  His 
unexpected  return,  however,  with  a  brace  of  brilliantly- 
feathered  drakes,  caused  us  to  shoulder  our  fowling- 
pieces,  crowd  some  ham  and  bread  into  our  pockets, 
and  accompany  him  in  his  search  for  their  scattered 
companions.  Old  bust-proof  and  his  master  were  again 
"in  clover." 

We  landed  on  a  quiet  beach  of  heavy  shingle,  climbed 
up  it  through  the  piles  of  drift^'ood,  and  from  its  summit 
looked  over  a  vast  marsh-like  plain,  spotted  here  and 
there  with  elevations  and  scattering  lagoons,  and  cut  up 
by  a  perfect  network  of  winding  streams,  which,  spring- 
ing from  the  melting  snows  of  the  back-mountains, 
worked  their  numerous  paths  toward  the  bay,  joining 
each  other  in  their  progress  until  they  finally  got  up 
quite  a  respectable  river,  that  emptied  its  turbid  volume 
through  the  rise  of  the  beach  into  the  clear  waters  of  the 
calm  and  motionless  bay. 

No  sooner  had  we  reached  our  elevation  of  some  thirty 
feet  above  the  sea,  than  the  doctor  pointed  out  the  direc- 
tion which  the  ducks  had  taken,  and  each  one  started  by 
a  difierent  path  to  hunt  them  up.  The  tide  was  ebbing 
at  the  time,  and  we  therefore  penetrated  the  muddy  ex- 
panse without  fear;  moreover,  many  of  the  hillocks  were 
high  enough  to  afibrd  a  place  of  retreat  should  it  return 
upon  us  unawares,  and  so  we  waded  the  various  streams 
and  lagoons,  as  we  left  the  beach  behind  us,  without  a 
thought.  Hours  were  passed  in  this  way  without  my 
crossing  the  sign  of  a  duck,  and  I  had  returned  to  within  a 
few  hundred  yards  of  the  wooding-party,  when,  from  the 


422  A    FOOLISH    UNDERTAKING. 

top  of  a  more  elevated  mound,  I  caught  sight  of  a  flock 
swimming  lazily  on  the  bosom  of  a  lagoon,  distant  some 
three  hundred  yards  and  apparently  of  quite  easy  approach. 

True,  the  river  was  between  us,  but  then  it  did  not  look 
much  larger  than  one  I  had  just  waded,  and  I  did  not 
even  stop  to  reflect  that  it  might  be  too  deep  and  rapid  to 
admit  of  fording.  Moreover,  I  saw  the  captain's  Ethi- 
opian steward  "making  a  straight  wake"  for  the  lagoon; 
and,  as  he  was  considerably  in  advance  of  me,  I  had  to 
cross  at  once  or  let  him  have  the  first  shot.  As  I  say,  I 
did  not  stop  to  think,  but  went  down  the  slope  at  a  trot 
and  boldly  entered  upon  the  trial.  I  struck  the  stream 
at  a  point  where  a  rocky  ford,  apparently  knee-deep, 
promised  a  safe  crossing,  while  both  above  and  below 
the  water  w^as  apparently  quite  deep.  This  ford  was 
about  a  hundred  yards  in  length  by  twenty  or  thirty  in 
width,  was  an  inclined  plane  of  loose  pebbles  and  firmly- 
embedded  and  jagged  rocks,  and  altogether  a  most  un- 
pleasant-looking locality  after  I  had  advanced  too  far  to  re- 
treat. The  rushing  water  boiled  and  foamed  among  the 
jagged  rocks  with  a  force  that  made  me  feel  quite  un- 
steady over  my  five-pound  expedition-boots,  and  caused 
me,  for  the  first  time,  to  think  of  retracing  my  steps.  I 
came  to  a  halt,  concluded  it  was  deeper  ahead,  if  any 
thing,  and  felt  that,  if  I  could  only  turn  without  being 
tripped  up,  it  w^ould  be  the  best  course  to  go  back. 

I  had  a  heavy  ship's  musket  on  my  shoulder,  and  knew 
that,  if  I  braced  it  against  the  bottom  to  support  me  in 
turning,  I  should  lose  just  twelve  pounds  of  my  weight, 
and  thus  render  it  much  easier  for  the  knee-deep  water 
to  sweep  my  feet  from  under  me;    still,  I  could  not  turn 


I  DELIGHT   IN   AN    UPRIGHT    ATTITUDE.  423 

without  support  of  some  kind,  and  began  to  hunt  up 
a  means  of  increasing  my  weight.  A  most  ingenious 
device  soon  crossed  my  mind,  but  unfortunately  it  was 
purely  theoretical: — could  I  only  fill  my  pockets  and  hat 
with  the  loose  pebbles  that  were  working  under  my  feet, 
I  might  increase  my  weight  sufiicently  to  enable  me  to 
dispense  with  that  of  the  musket;  but,  upon  stooping 
carefully  down  to  feel  for  these  loose  stones,  I  was  con- 
vinced of  its  impracticability,  narrowly  escaping  losing 
my  foothold,  and  was  glad  to  regain  an  upright  attitude. 

I  began  to  look  anxiously  around  and  wonder  if  I  was 
destined  to  have  my  ribs  broken  against  those  jagged 
rocks,  or  if  there  was  a  possibility  of  my  being  able  to 
steer  clear  of  them  should  I  cast  myself  with  the  rush- 
ing current  and  trust  to  swimming  on  shore  after  being 
swept  into  the  revolving  waters  of  the  lower  pool.  Then 
again  I  thought  it  might  be  better  to  hold  my  ground  as 
long  as  possible,  until  I  could  attract  the  attention  of 
some  one ;  and  to  this  end  I  strained  my  lungs  to  their 
utmost,  hoping  that  the  previously-mentioned  Ethiopian 
would  hear  me  and  be  induced  to  attempt  a  rescue.  In 
this  I  was  fortunately  successful;  but  the  jar  of  the  exer- 
tion nearly  cost  me  another  loss  of  footing,  and  the  Ethi- 
opian, instead  of  advancing  to  my  assistance,  quietly 
folded  his  hands  over  the  muzzle  of  his  gun  and  re- 
garded my  position  with  great  apparent  complacency. 
In  the  mean  time  the  pebbly  bottom  was  gradually  work- 
ing from  under  my  feet.  I  began  to  feel  uncomfortably 
light,  and,  finding  that  I  should  certainly  be  swept  away 
in  a  few  more  seconds,  determined  to  exert  myself  in 
some  way  while  it  remained   optional.     I  therefore  cau- 


424  A  CONTEMPLATIVE    ETHIOPIAN. 

tiously  turned  my  ransket  muzzle  down,  planted  it  firmly 
against  the  edge  of  a  sunken  rock  just  below  me,  and, 
with  that  as  a  support,  commenced  to  get  myself  pointed 
in  the  oj)posite  direction. 

It  was  only  a  commencement.  No  sooner  did  I  expose 
the  surface  of  both  boot-tops  to  the  furious  current  than 
I  came  down  face  first,  was  drifted  barrel-like  over  the 
sunken  rock,  then  over  another,  and,  altogether,  jerked 
about  in  a  most  confusing  manner.  It  seemed  as  if  my 
arms,  legs,  and  head  were  being  swept  about  in  all  direc- 
tions at  once;  and  I  need  scarcely  remark  that  at  this 
period  of  the  action  I  let  the  musket  look  out  for  itself. 
How  I  ever  reached  the  opposite  shore  is,  and  ever  will  be, 
to  me  a  mystery.  I  remember,  as  I  fell,  feeling  nerved 
by  the  conviction  that  I  was  in  great  danger,  and  that 
presence  of  mind  and  powerful  exertion  were  all  that  I 
could  depend  upon ;  and  I  remember  also  determining,  as 
I  felt  myself  rolled  with  bruising  violence  over  the  first 
rock,  to  strike  out  for  the  opposite  shore  at  an  angle  of 
forty-five  degrees  loith  the  current,  as  the  most  apparent 
means  of  safety.  But  this,  combined  with  avast  amount 
of  floundering,  sharp  pains,  and  confusion  of  ideas,  is  all 
that  I  do  remember,  until  I  found  myself  crawling  with 
painful  exhaustion  up  the  rocky  beach  some  eighty  yards 
below  the  point  from  which  I  had  started.  I  looked  in 
the  direction  of  the  contemplative  Ethiopian,  who  no 
sooner  saw  me  lying  exhausted  upon  the  bank  than  he 
seemed  suddenly  awakened  to  the  conviction  that  some- 
thing had  happened,  and  that  he  had  better  make  it 
known.  So  he  hurriedly  fired  off"  his  gun,  shouted  at  the 
top  of  his  voice  that  Mr.  Habersham  was  drowning,  and 


^,,s^ri 


'^^: 


•*bi.  :'#';i:5'r'i' 


BRANDY   AND  A   WARM    BED    FOR  A  BAD    SCARE.         425 

then  actually  ran  away  from  me  as  fast  as  his  legs  could 
carry  him.  Slowly  I  recovered  my  breath,  more  slowly 
still  my  strength,  until  finally  I  felt  able  to  examine  for 
injuries.  Singular  as  the  assertion  may  seem,  I  had 
escaped  with  a  few  quite  severe  bruises,  a  sprained  wrist, 
and  a  good  ducldng;  and,  the  captain  soon  arriving  in  a 
boat,  I  was  taken  on  board,  dosed  with  brandy,  and 
covered  up  warmly  in  bed.  For  the  next  few  days  I  was 
quite  contented  to  remain  quietly  on  board ;  but  a  week 
later  I  was  induced  to  join  in  a  bear-hunt,  which  resulted 
in  great  danger  to  three  of  the  mess.  I  never  tried  the 
depth  of  another  Siberian  ford,  however.  This  "bear- 
hunt"  is  the  second  adventure  of  which  I  spoke.  As  it 
will  be  a  rather  lengthy  account,  I  will  put  it  at  the  head 
of  the  twenty-second  chapter. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

WE  WAYLAY  A  SIBERIAN  BEAR  AND  NARROWLY^  ESCAPE  "CATCHING  A  TAR- 
TAR;" AFTER  WHICH  WE  ENGAGE  IN  A  STAMPEDE,  CLIMB  A  VERY  STEEP 
HILL,  AND    THEN    DESCEND    AGAIN    TO    OUR   BOAT. 

A  WEEK  had  passed  since  the  adventure  recorded  in 
the  last  chapter,  and  we  were  again  at  anchor  in  a  half- 
sheltered  bay.  It  was  evening,  and  the  past  day  had 
been  devoted  to  loading  our  decks  with  a  fresh  supply  of 
drift-wood  and  to  filling  our  water-tanks ;  and,  now  that 
we  had  as  much  on  board  as  we  could  stow,  and  it  was 
near  sunset,  we  concluded  to  remain  at  anchor  that  night 
and  make  an  early  start  the  next  morning. 

Immediately  after  dinner,  and  while  the  majority  of 
us  were  at  work,  the  doctor,  Lawton,  and  "Williams  had 
taken  advantage  of  our  being  at  anchor  to  embark  in 
the  tomtit  with  their  guns  and  the  determination  to 
employ  the  remnant  of  the  day  in  a  stroll  through  the 
woods  after  some  wandering  bear.  They  had  often  in- 
dulged in  similar  strolls  without  having  the  fortune  to 
meet  with  the  object  of  their  search,  and  now  vowed 
that  they  would  not  return  this  time  without  some  well- 
riddled  bruin  as  their  travelling-companion.  And  now, 
as  the  day's  work  was  over  and  the  western  sun  dropped 
slowly  behind  the  uneven  range  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  the  tomtit  was  observed  about  half-way 
between  us  and  the  southern  shore  of  the  bay,  returning 

426 


WE   ARE    SHOWN   AX    IMMENSE    BEAR.  427 

at  a  rate  whose  extreme  tardiness  indicated  any  thing 
but  a  "glorious  day's  sport"  as  having  been  enjoyed 
by  her  Nimrod  rowers. 

Several  of  us  were  leaning  over  the  quarter-deck  rail, 
commenting  upon  their  probable  disappointment  and 
disgust,  when  the  quartermaster  of  the  watch  directed 
our  attention  to  an  immense  bear,  who,  he  said,  had  just 
appeared  upon  the  beach  from  the  thick  undergrowth 
w^hich  almost  hid  the  mouth  of  the  river,  our  late  water- 
ing-place. We  looked  in  the  direction  indicated  and 
saw  a  huge  mass,  of  a  black  colour,  whose  well-defined 
outlines  moved  slowly  toward  the  water's  edge.  There 
was  no  mistaking  it  for  any  thing  hut  a  bear  as  it  picked 
its  lumbering  way  through  the  heavy  sand  and  scattered 
rocks  along  the  rippling  beach,  toward  the  southern 
point  of  the  bay.  He  was  at  least  a  mile,  probably  more, 
from  us,  and  yet  his  huge  dimensions  and  every  motion 
could  be  seen  as  plainly  as  if  he  had  been  within  gun- 
shot. "We  thought  how  large  he  must  be  to  show  so 
l^lainly  at  such  a  distance,  and  longed  to  cross  his  path 
with  our  rifles  and  revolvers. 

He  was  evidently  taking  his  time  to  go  wherever  he 
w-as  bound,  for  he  walked  along  quite  slowly,  stopping 
every  now  and  then  with  his  head  to  the  ground  as  if 
smelling  or  eating  something,  and  then  continuing  along 
as  before.  We  looked  toward  the  bright  path  which  had 
been  left  by  the  setting  sun  and  wondered  if  its  refracted 
rays  would  last  us  another  half-hour,  or  if  we  would  be 
likely  to  reach  the  beach  just  as  it  got  too  dark  to  shoot, 
and  thus  have  a  long  pull  for  nothing.  We  wondered 
all  this  with  excited  voices,  and,  while  wondering,  cast 


428  "on,  THE  mischief!" 

our  eyes  in  the  direction  of  the  tomtit,  whose  sharp- 
sighted  occupants  had  evidently  been  as  wide  awake  as 
the  old  quartermaster.  "We  could  see  them  lying  on 
their  oars  and  apparently  consulting  as  to  the  rationality 
of  returning  to  the  beach  and  awaiting  his  arrival  either 
from  the  boat  or  ambush  behind  some  log  or  rock;  and 
in  a  few  moments  the  boat's  head  was  pulled  quickly 
around  for  the  beach  by  Lawton  and  Williams,  while  the 
doctor,  with  a  tiller-rope  in  each  hand,  leaned  eagerly 
forward  with  every  stroke. 

"By  George! — there  they  go  back  after  him!"  ex- 
claimed an  excited  voice. 

"Let's  call  away  the  Falcon"  (our  fastest  boat)  "and 
lend  them  a  hand,"  cried  a  second. 

"  The  crew  have  been  worked  hard  to-day,  gentlemen," 
remarked  the  first  lieutenant;  "and  if  you  want  the 
Falcon  you  must  pull  her  yourselves." 

"  Oh,  the  mischief!"  exclaimed  excited  voice  No.  1. 

"I've  been  working  hard  too,"  chimed  in  Ko.  2. 

"Well,  gentlemen,"  interrupted  the  captain,  who  was  as 
ready  for  the  fun  as  any  of  us,  "  call  away  the  gig  and 
get  your  rifles :  she's  handier  than  the  Falcon.  Come ! 
let's  see  if  we  can't  get  a  bear  at  last !" 

In  less  than  two  minutes  we  were  all  seated  in  the 
crowded  stern-sheets  of  the  flying  boat,  with  the  eager 
crew  bending  to  their  supple  oars  and  urging  her  head- 
long course  toward  the  unsuspecting  monster.  There 
were  five  of  us  in  the  boat  besides  the  crew,  all  armed 
with  Sharpe's  rifles  and  revolvers,  —  some  even  with 
bowie-knives, — while  the  crew  themselves  each  had  a 
carbine,    ship's    pistol,    and    cutlass,  —  eleven   grown-up 


A    MOST    DISAGREEABLE    RESULT.  429 

men,  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  in  hot  pursuit  of  a  lazy  old     ' 
bear,  who  continued  his  lounging  way  along  the  beach 
without  the  least  indication  of  consciousness  or  fear  of 
danger.     It  was  exciting  in  the  extreme  to  every  one  but 
him. 

Five  minutes  rolled  by  in  this  way,  and  then  we  saw 
the  tomtit  reach  the  beach  some  half-mile  below  the 
bear,  when  the  three  hunters  hastily  landed,  hauled  her 
up  well  clear  of  the  water  and  concealed  themselves 
behind  a  huge  boulder  of  granite  which  was  distant  some 
twenty  feet  from  the  water  and  about  the  same  distance 
from  the  edge  of  the  hill-side  bushes.  It  was,  in  fact, 
situated  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  beach  at  low-water, 
and  the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree  that  had  rolled  down  from 
the  hill-side  connected  it  with  said  hill-side  bushes.  Had 
they  had  both  time  and  material  at  their  command,  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  have  constructed  a  more 
admirable  place  of  ambush. 

This  was  all  very  favourable ;  but  there  was  one  con- 
sideration which  acted  as  a  powerful  drawback  to  their 
hopes :  they  had  but  one  round  of  ammunition  each, 
(all  this  we  learned  subsequently,)  and  neither  knife  or 
revolver  in  the  party.  What  if  it  should  come  to  a  hand- 
to-hand  struggle  ?  ISTevertheless,  they  shut  their  eyes  to 
such  a  disagreeable  result  and  entered  boldly  upon  the 
desperate  game  of  waylaying  a  ferocious  animal  whose 
weight  was  certainly  not  less  than  sixteen  hundred 
pounds,  and  whose  kind — like  the  grizzly  of  our  own 
"Western  mountains — had  often  been  known  to  hug  a  man 
or  horse  to  death  after  receiving  a  dozen  wounds  any 
one  of  which  would  have  disabled  an  ordinary  animal. 


430  DO  NOT   GET  EXCITED. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  risky  game  to  be  entered  into  under  the 
circumstances. 

After  thus  stowing  themselves  in  ambush,  getting  good 
rests  for  their  guns,  and  determining  exactly  how  far  they 
were  to  let  the  bear  come  before  firing,  they  began  for 
the  first  time  to  calculate  the  chances  that  were  against 
them,  and  to  feel  doubtful,  even  amidst  their  nervous  ex- 
citement, as  to  the  result.  The  doctor,  who  was  renowned 
for  shooting  oif  the  heads  of  geese  and  ducks  at  marvel- 
lously-long distances,  may  be  supposed  to  have  felt  perfect 
confidence  as  to  the  effect  of  his  "only  ball;"  but  then  he 
had  not  now  his  long  Kentucky  rifle,  and  was  far  from 
certain  that  he  should  shoot  with  his  usual  closeness 
with  the  heavy  ship's  musket  that  had  been  kicking  his 
shoulder  out  of  joint  for  the  last  few  hours. 

As  he  was,  however,  the  most  reliable  shot,  in  spite  of 
the  absence  of  his  favourite  gun,  it  was  determined  that 
he  should  fire  first,  while  Lawton,  who  was  armed  with  a 
rhinoceros  rifle  of  immense  bore,  was  to  aim  at  his  heart 
and  fire  as  soon  after  as  possible.  Lastly,  "Williams,  who 
was  armed  with  a  double-barrelled  shot-gun  loaded  with 
ball,  was  cautioned  more  than  once  to  shoot  right  for 
the  centre  of  his  fore-shoulder, — a  little  abaft  if  any  thing, 
— and  to  pay  particular  regard  to  the  state  of  his  own 
nerves, — i.e.  not  to  get  excited  and  be  led  into  the  danger- 
ous error  of  shooting  over  his  back. 

"Now,  mind  what  you  are  about,"  said  the  wary  doctor: 
"/  may  miss  with  this  old  musket,  and  if  you  two  follow 
my  example  we  are  certain  to  be  hugged  to  death.  You 
remember  what  the  old  priest  at  Taousk  told  us  about 
these  fellows?     Confound  it!"  he  exclaimed,  as  he  cast 


"no    running    IP   HE    CLOSES   WITH    US."  431 

his  eye  in  our  direction  and  saw  that  we  were  pulHng 
hurriedly  toward  the  hear, — "  confound  it !  There's  a  boat 
puhing  right  up  for  the  bear:  they'll  drive  him  back  into 
tlie  woods.     Did  you  ever  see  any  thing  so  provoking?" 

"I  wonder  people  haven't  got  more  sense!"  muttered 
Lawton,  in  an  angry  whisper.  "  They  must  know  that 
we  are  here  waiting  for  him,  and  yet  they  run  that  chance 
of  driving  him  to  the  bush.  I  wish  she'd  run  aground. 
Miserable  foolishness!" 

"Remember  what  we  agreed  about  'standing  by'  each 
other  here,"  said  Williams:  "there's  to  be  no  running  if 
he  closes  with  us ;  /couldn't  keep  up."  The  doctor  and 
Lawton  laughed,  in  spite  of  their  chagrin  at  our  approach ; 
and  then  ensued  an  interval  of  silence,  followed  by  dis- 
connected remarks  as  to  the  approaching  crisis. 

Bruin  was  now  getting  close  enough  to  cause  them  to 
lower  their  voices  to  a  whisper.  He  was  about  two  or 
three  hundred  yards  off,  lumbering  along  about  as  fast  as 
a  man  would  ordinarily  walk,  and  apparently  unconscious 
of  either  ambush  or  boat.  The  doctor,  therefore,  with 
his  usual  wariness,  cautioned  them  to  silence. 

"Hush!  hush!"  he  whispered.  "He  is  close  enough 
now  to  hear.  Fortunately  the  wind  is  coming  from  him 
to  us  and  his  nose  will  be  of  no  use  to  him.  If  we  can 
only  keep  out  of  his  sight  and  hold  our  tongues,  he  will 
come  right  upon  us  before  he  suspects  any  thing.  "We 
will  let  him  get  as  far  as  that  bunch  of  grass  before  we 
fire,  and  then  we  can  make  a  sure  thing  of  it."  He 
pointed  with  his  pale  but  steady  finger  to  a  clump  of 
dried  sea-weed  which  the  ebbing  tide  had  left  just  eleven 
fed  from  the  place   of  ambush,  drew  a  long  breath  to 


432  THRILLING   MOMENTS    TO    THE   KIMRODS. 

relieve  a  nervous  feeling  of  morbid  hungriness  that  had 
lately  attacked  him,  and  examined  the  musket's  cap  with 
a  doubting  eye. 

And  now  to  return  to  our  boat.  There  was  no  occa- 
sion now  for  the  usual  order  of  "Give  way,  boys!"  the 
long  sweeping  oars  of  mouutain-ash  worked  with  the 
beautiful  regularity  of  a  steam-engine,  under  the  bent 
backs  and  swelling  muscles  of  the  long-tried  and  excited 
oarsmen,  and  seemed  to  cast  the  boat  at  least  her  length 
ahead  with  every  stroke.  "We  were  beginning  to  close  in 
with  the  beach  pretty  well;  and,  just  as  we  had  succeeded 
in  getting  the  bear  between  us  and  the  shore-party,  he 
seemed  to  discover  us  for  the  first  time.  Our  gliding 
approach,  however,  did  not  apparently  disturb  him;  he 
only  turned  a  lazy  glance  toward  us,  snufi'ed  the  tainted 
air,  and  continued  his  lounging  gait  toward  the  very 
clump  of  sea-weed  which  the  sound  judgment  of  the 
Kentucky  hunter  had  imagined  he  would  approach  in 
search  of  some  fated  shell-fish  or  other  object  of  food. 
We  saw  that  the  crisis  was  fast  approaching,  and  we  were 
yet  some  three  hundred  yards  from  the  beach:  would 
that  he  might  find  some  unfortunate  crab  to  arrest  his 
lazy  progress  until  we  could  give  a  few  more  strokes  and 
reach  the  shore ! 

To  tlie  ambushed  hunters  these  were  moments  of  thrill- 
ing excitement.  They  could  not  remain  positively  out 
of  his  sight  without  he  being  also  out  of  their  sight,  and, 
notwithstanding  his  immense  bulk  and  weight,  he  moved 
along  the  sandy  beach  with  such  a  noiseless  tread  that 
they  could  not  judge,  from  the  sound  of  his  steps,  whether 
he  continued  his  approach,  or  whether  he  had  taken  to 


AN    UNBEARABLE    STATE    OF   SUSPENSE.  433 

the  bushes  from  the  noise  of  our  oars.  This  state  of  sus- 
pense at  length  became  so  unbearable  that  the  doctor 
determined  to  steal  a  cautious  glance  at  him  over  the  top 
of  the  boulder,  and  in  the  execution  of  this  he  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  get  a  good  view  and  recover  his  hiding- 
place  without  being  seen  by  Bruin.  The  feat  was  success- 
fully accomplished ;  but  he  has  often  expressed  regret  at 
having  undertaken  it,  simply  from  the  fact  that  the 
unexpected  size  and  ferocious  look  of  the  monster,  com- 
bined with  the  startling  accounts  we  had  all  heard  of  his 
desperate  mode  of  fighting,  and  their  own  total  want  of 
defensive  arms,  so  troubled  his  ordinarily-steady  nerves 
that  he  felt  he  should  have  fired  with  a  truer  eye  and 
more  steady  aim  had  he  avoided  looking  at  him  until  the 
moment  arrived  to  do  so  along  the  barrel  of  his  musket. 

His  description  of  his  savage  appearance,  as  observed 
while  he  was  thus  evidently  unconscious  of  the  presence 
of  danger,  was  vivid  in  the  extreme. 

"When  I  lifted  my  eye  over  the  boulder,"  he  said,  "I 
expected  to  see  him  at  a  distance  of  at  least  fifty  yards 
up  the  beach,  and  to  find  him  of  a  reasonable  size.  Ima- 
gine my  surprise,  therefore, — indeed,  my  alarm, — to  find 
him  almost  under  our  noses  and  exceeding  in  size  the 
largest  of  oxen.  I  must  confess  that  I  longed  at  that 
moment  for  one  of  two  things, — either  to  feel  my  knife 
and  revolver  in  my  belt,  or  myself  safely  on  shipboard. 
In  fact,  I  think  the  latter  feeling  was  a  little  the  strongest 
if  any  thing.  Of  course  my  survey  was  a  hurried  one  : 
still,  I  saw  more  than  enough  to  increase  my  fears  as  to 
the  result.     See  here  what  it  was  that  I  saw. 

"His  head,  though  quite  large,  was  small  when  com- 

28 


434  WHAT  THE    DOCTOR    SEES. 

pared  Avith  his  huge  fore-shoulders,  of  a  jet-black  hue, 
and  covered  with  a  growth  of  short,  sleek  hair  that 
shone  as  if  he  had  just  dipped  it  into  a  barrel  of  grease. 
The  rest  of  his  body  was  covered  with  long  and  thick 
wool,  rather  brownish  along  the  backbone,  but  as  black 
as  his  head  everywhere  else.  His  fore-legs  were  of  an 
awful  size,  his  height  from  four  to  five  feet,  and  his 
length  of  body  and  limb  absolutely  horrifying.  I  calcu- 
lated at  the  time  that  he  could  not  have  weighed  less 
than  fifteen  hundred  pounds, — possibly  more ;  and,  as  I 
imagined  myself  borne  down  by  that  weight,  I  shud- 
dered. 

"As  he  still  continued  his  approach  he  threw  out  his 
fore-legs  with  a  sweeping  motion,  and  swung  his  appa- 
rently-unwieldy frame  something  after  the  fashion  of  an 
over-handed  swimmer ;  and  the  tracks  that  he  thus  left 
looked  deep  enough  to  contain  a  gallon-measure.  A  dense 
swarm  of  gigantic  mosquitos  hovered  around  his  head 
and  seemed  to  cause  him  no  inconsiderable  annoyance 
in  that  particular  locality  ;  and  I  could  not  help  thinking 
what  good  judgment  they  evinced  in  the  selection  of 
their  point  of  attack,  as  they  might  have  worked  a  day 
through  the  thick  wool  which  protected  the  rest  of  his 
body  without  reaching  his  skin.  As  he  moved  along 
with  his  slow  and  measured  pace,  his  general  appearance 
was  prominently  indicative  of  two  things — unbounded 
strength,  and  a  latent  ferocity  of  disposition  which  pro- 
mised an  unyielding  foe.  I  looked  at  him  and  trembled ; 
and,  as  the  above  all  flashed  quickly  through  my  brain,  I 
drew  a  long  breath,  and  felt  that  a  moment  was  drawing 
near  when   courage   and    thought    must    combine  with 


IT    SEEMS   AS    IF    MINUTES    ARE   HOURS.  435 

inferior  muscle  to  equalize  the  pending  struggle.  By 
a  violent  eftbrt  I  retained  my  self-possession,  sunk 
quietly  into  my  ambush,  and,  with  firmly-set  teeth  and 
pointed  musket,  awaited  his  appearance  beyond  the  outer 
edge  of  the  rock. 

"Lawton  and  "Williams  had,  in  the  mean  time,  gazed 
anxiously  in  my  face,  there  to  read  information  which 
could  not  now  be  imparted  by  words;  and,  as  they  ob- 
served its  expression  of  almost  alarmed  excitement,  they 
became  a  shade  paler,  and  grasped  their  guns  with  com- 
pressed lips  and  flashing  eyes  as  they  bent  their  steady 
gaze  toward  the  clump  of  sea-weed. 

"  It  seemed  as  if  minutes  had  become  hours  as  we  thus 
awaited  his  appearance. 

""We  could  hear  the  sounding  beats  of  each  others' 
hearts,  and  the  hurried  dip  of  your  boat's  oars,  which, 
now  that  the  end  was  at  hand,  we  hailed  as  a  promise  of 
rescue  should  the  probable  struggle  result  from  a  mis- 
directed ball  or  the  bear's  well-known  tenacity  of  life. 

"  Slowly  the  moments  dragged  by :  plainer  became  the 
sound  of  your  oars :  we  could  even  hear  the  noise  of  the 
broken  water  under  your  rushing  bow,  when    *    *    *    * 

"  The  deafening  report  of  Lawtoh's  heav;y'-borcd  rhino- 
ceros rifle  at  my  very  ear  caused  me  to  spring  to  my  feet 
and  glance  hurriedly  around  with  a  confused  idea  that 
concealment  was  no  longer  our  forte,  and  that  the  time 
had  at  length  come  when  muscle,  coolness,  and  deter- 
mination were  the  only  reserves  for  us  to  fall  back  upon. 
The  game  was  now  evidentl}^  under  way,  and  nothing 
but  steady  nerves  and  desperate  fighting  was  to  save  us. 

"Lawton  had  taken  me  by  surprise  when  he  fired;  for 


436  A    DEADLY   WOUND. 

I  was  unfortunately  so  close  to  the  rock  that  a  small  pro- 
jection of  its  right  side  completely  concealed  the  bear 
from  my  view,  while  his  whole  fore-shoulders  and  head 
were  exposed  to  the  others.  In  fact,  he  saw  the  others 
before  I  saw  him ;  and  it  was  a  sudden  demonstration  of 
flight  on  his  part  that  had  caused  the  unexpected  dis- 
charge. 

"I  sprang  to  my  feet  with  ringing  ears,  and  looked 
anxiously  over  the  boulder,  which  was  now  between  the 
bear  and  myself.  The  sight  which  met  my  eyes  was 
thrilling  to  behold 

"  He  was  standing  upright  upon  his  hind-legs,  hugging 
the  air  at  random  with  frantic  rage  and  fright,  throwing 
his  expanded  jaws  right  and  left  with  nervous  jerks, 
writhing  wnth  strange  pain,  and  growling  with  the 
strength  of  distant  thunder.  The  heavy  ball  of  the 
rhinoceros  rifle  had  passed  clean  through  his  body  in 
the  region  of  the  heart,  and  from  the  torn  wounds  thus 
created  the  red  blood  spouted  with  every  agonized  con- 
tortion. Its  crimson  hue  indicated  a  vital  source,  and,  as  I 
gazed  upon  the  spasmodic  jets  of  the  arterial  stream,  I 
felt  that  the  day  was  ours.  Slowly,  and  with  deliberate 
movement,  I  pointed  the  musket  between  his  very  eyes 
while  he  was  not  more  than  ten  feet  from  the  muzzle. 
He  was  just  about  to  close  with  us;  but  the  ounce-ball 
stopped  his  spring.  I  imagined  I  could  hear  it  as  it 
crushed  its  resistless  path  through  the  hardened  skull; 
but  in  this  I  was  probably  mistaken,  as  he  could  never 
have  acted  as  he  did  subsequently  with  such  a  weight  of 
lead  in  his  brain.  It  doubtless  glanced  from  the  un- 
yielding bone  after  cracking  it  and  bringing  him  down 


WE  GAZE  THROUGH  THE  GATHERING  GLOOM.     437 

as  you  saw  him  fall.  "Wasn't  it  done  beautifully?  Didn't 
he  howl  awfully?" 

And  now  let  me  remember  what  we  saw  from  the 
approaching  boat.  We  saw  the  top  of  the  medical  head 
through  the  gloom  of  approaching  night,  as  its  owner 
took  his  cautious  peep  over  the  boulder,  and  expected  to 
see  the  flash  of  his  musket  as  the  immediate  consequence ; 
but,  to  our  joy,  he  as  suddenly  dipped  out  of  sight  again, 
while  Bruin  still  continued  his  lazy  way.  We  knew  now 
that  they  had  determined  to  let  him  get  under  their  very 
noses  before  firing,  and  as  the  boat  flew  toward  the  scene 
we  watched  with  straining  eyes  for  the  expected  flashes. 

The  shades  of  evening  were  now  being  darkened  by  the 
near  approach  of  night,  but  there  was  still  a  fair  prospect 
of  sufiicient  light  to  see  us  through  the  afiair.  It  was 
just  dark  enough  to  let  one  see  both  the  flash  and  smoke 
of  a  discharged  piece,  and  to  enable  the  huntsman  to  take 
a  deadly  aim  without  the  drawback  of  a  distracting  ray. 
We  gazed  with  straining  eyes  through  this  gathering 
gloom,  as  the  crew  swung  with  unfailing  muscle  to  the 
bending  oars. 

Suddenly  those  straining  eyes  encountered  two  beautiful 
sights,  while,  in  the  same  instant  almost,  our  ears  were 
saluted  by  the  sharp  report  of  a  discharged  rifle. 

In  the  first  place,  we  saw  its  sudden  and  lurid  flash, 
and  in  the  second,  the  frightened  action  of  the  stricken 
bear.  Even  before  the  report  reached  us, — in  fact,  simul- 
taneously with  the  explosion  of  the  lurid  flame  within 
ten  feet  of  his  lowered  head, — he  sprang  frantically  into 
the  smoky  air,  came  heavily  down  upon  his  powerful 
hind-legs,  and  in  that  upright  position  beat  the  air  wildly 


438  LOOKING    SEVEN    WAYS   FOR    SUNDAY. 

with  his  sweeping  paws,  while,  with  expanded  jaws,  he 
sliook  his  pointed  head  with  mingled  pain,  rage,  and 
fright.  At  that  moment  he  offered  the  most  perfect  idea 
of  the  old  expression — "looking  seven  ways  for  Sunda}^" 
— that  one  could  imagine,  and  its  vivid  application  to  his 
painful  contortions  forced  itself  upon  my  mind  even  in 
that  moment  of  wild  excitement. 

^'^  Give  way,  boys!  Drive  her  ahead!"  exclaimed  the 
eager  voice  of  the  captain,  as  with  pale  cheek  and  nervous 
hand  he  steered  the  trembling  boat  clear  of  the  pointed 
rocks  which  began  to  cross  our  foaming  path  as  we 
neared  the  beach.  '■'■Give  her  headway!  A  dozen  more 
strokes  and  we  arc  there." 

"Oh,  horror!"  exclaimed  a  tremulous  voice  from  the 
bow.  "  But  this  is  frightful !  The  bear  will  fight !  See 
how  he  settles  his  gaze  upon  the  doctor  and  gathers 
himself  for  a  spring!  He  will  take  them  all  with  one 
sweep  of  a  single  paw.  And  ive — loe  are  too  late  I"  The 
speaker  raised  himself  with  a  gesture  as  full  of  emotion 
as  his  voice,  and  leaned  eagerly  forward  over  the  boiling 
water  that  curled  under  our  stern. 

The  large  veins  swelled  almost  to  bursting  on  the 
dripping  brows  of  the  labouring  crew,  and  the  tough 
oars  bent  like  whalebone  under  their  frightened  strength. 
The  doctor  had  nursed  kindly  weak  men  who  were  strong 
men  now,  and  the  power  of  long-cherished  gratitude 
combined  with  bone  and  sinew  to  drive  the  boat  ahead 
and  rescue  his  threatened  life.  It  was  not  in  every  oar 
of  ash  to  resist  those  hardened  muscles  that  swelled  thus 
with  gratitude  and  excitement:  something  must  fail,  for 
the  yielding  oars  can  yield  no  more.     Suddenly  there 


ANOTHER    DEADLY    AYOUND.  430 

came  a  crash :  one  of  tlicm  has  broken ;  and,  as  its  now 
useless  loom  was  swung  heavily  into  the  air  by  its  baffled 
owner,  he  gave  vent  to  a  deep  and  hasty  imprecation  and 
ground  his  clenched  teeth  in  bitter  disappointment.  Still, 
on  we  go:  there  are  four  more  left,  and  only  a  few  more 
yards  to  pass.  The  power  of  that  failing  oar  seems  to 
have  been  absorbed  by  the  remaining  four,  for  our  speed 
is  apparently  unchanged. 

Shortly  we  saw  another  lurid  flame  flash  through  the 
deepening  gloom,  as  the  doctor's  bent  head  bent  still 
lower  upon  the  levelled  barrel,  and  at  the  same  instant 
the  full  report  of  a  heavily-loaded  musket  broke  upon 
our  ear.  It  took  no  time  to  reach  us  now;  we  were 
within  thirty  yards  of  the  thrilling  scene  which  was 
apparently  but  just  commencing,  and  frames  that  trem- 
bled with  excited  emotion  stood  upright  in  the  boat, 
ready  to  rash  into  the  unequal  struggle  as  soon  as  her 
bow  should  touch  the  longed-for  beach. 

This  last  shot  was  a  magnificent  triumph  of  the  sure 
eye  and  steady  arm  which  guided  it.  The  bear,  having 
caught  sight  of  his  foe  behind  the  boulder,  had  suddenly 
settled  upon  his  haunches,  and,  with  expanded  mouth 
and  open  arms,  commenced  a  spring  which  would,  in  all 
probability,  have  landed  him  in  their  very  midst.  But  a 
merciful  Power  arrested  him  on  its  verge :  the  heavy 
ounce-ball  struck  him  full  in  the  head,  glanced  from  the 
unyielding  but  cracking  skull,  and  brought  him  down 
like  a  felled  ox.  He  came  down  head  first  into  the  soft 
sand  with  a  jar  that  seemed  to  shake  the  very  beach, 
clasped  his  wounded  forehead  with  both  paws,  and  rolled 
his  shining  head  to  and  fro  with  a  rapid  and  agonized 


440  PALE   FACES   AND    CLUBBED    GUNS. 

motion.  "We  could  hear  his  deep-toned  growl  and 
laboured  breathing  as  he  scattered  the  loose  stones  and 
sand  in  all  directions,  seemingly  intent  on  burrowing 
a  den  in  which  to  shelter  himself  from  his  relentless 
enemies. 

A  round  of  loud  and  enthusiastic  cheers  broke  from 
our  party  as  he  thus  came  down  with  a  shock  that 
in  itself  would  have  been  enough  to  break  the  neck  of 
any  ordinary  animal,  and  more  than  one  tremulous 
arm  pointed  a  Sharpe's  rifle  toward  the  fallen  monster. 

"  Don't  fire !"  exclaimed  a  voice   whose   owner  was 
evidently  more  collected  than  the  rest  of  us.     "  He  is 
done   for,   or  Williams   would   draw   on  him   with   his' 
double-barrel.     Another  cheer  for  the  victory." 

We  cheered  with  even  more  spirit  than  at  first,  and 
the  ravined  hills  spread  its  notes  far  and  wide  upon  the 
motionless  air. 

It  was  a  most  unfortunate  demonstration,  and  they 
were  miserable  ravines  to  lend  their  aid  to  our  more 
miserable  rejoicing.  Bruin  reared  his  bleeding  front  as 
the  strange  and  unknown  sounds  broke  upon  his  dead- 
ened ear,  and,  glaring  around  with  flaming  and  blood- 
stained eyes,  seemed  to  regain  from  them  a  portion  of  his 
paralyzed  strength  as  he  staggered  toward  the  boulder, 
behind  which  our  three  friends  retreated  before  his 
threatening  approach.  It  was  then  an  awful  sight,  as  it 
is  now  a  thrilling  recollection, — the  doctor  and  Lawton, 
with  their  pale  faces,  well-braced  limbs,  and  clubbed 
guns ;  Williams,  with  his  flushed  cheek,  bent  knee,  and 
levelled  double-barrel.  - 


A    STATE    OF    WILD    CONFUSION.  441 

Now,  "Williams,  a  steady  eye !  Life  and  death  hang 
upon  those  two  last  s^ots.  Aim  close !  Now  or  never! 
We  watched  for  the  expected  flash  which  was  again  to 
arrest  his  progress,  and  heard  the  snap  of  a  failing  cap. 

A  cry  of  anguished  despair  arose  from  our  midst  as 
the  staggering  monster  shook  his  bleeding  head  and 
reeled  heavily  onward  with  returning  powers  to  close 
with  his  foe.  We  leaned  eagerly  forward  with  a  tumul- 
tuous feeling  of  excitement  boiling  in  our  breasts  and 
clouding  the  vision  with  a  species  of  vertigo.  Another 
false  cap  ! — another  hope  gone, — their  last ! 

Suddenly  our  attention  is  called  to  our  own  safety.  A 
sudden  jar,  a  crash  of  splintering  oak,  a  long  grating 
sound,  and  the  boat's  bow  is  high  and  dry  out  of  the 
water,  her  progress  stopped. 

>(c  :):  ^  sji  :)?  :|c  rf; 

We  saw  no  more  for  the  next  few  seconds.  A  sunken 
rock  had  crossed  our  path,  and  the  boat,  urged  by  her 
tremendous  velocity,  had  run  upon  it  high  and  dry.  We 
were  thrown  in  every  possible  direction, — some  over- 
board, others  along  the  thwarts,  others  piled  in  a  pro- 
miscuous heap  in  the  forward  part  of  the  stern-sheets. 
As  for  myself,  I  went  overboard  head  first,  but,  b}'  catch- 
ing the  gunwale  of  the  boat  with  my  left  hand,  brought 
up  with  only  one  leg  in  the  water,  and  enough  presence 
of  mind  to  feel  with  my  foot  for  bottom,  holding  my 
rifle  well  clear  of  the  water  at  the  same  time. 

I  found  it  only  knee-deep ;  and,  as  we  were  now  not 
more  than  a  boat's-length  from  the  beach,  a  general  rush 
was  made  for  it  as  soon  as  people  had  recovered  their 
legs  and  the  depth  of  water  became  known. 


442  AN    OLD-FASHIONED    STAMPEDE. 

I  never  before  engaged  in  such  a  scrambling  race, — 
througli  the  knee-deep  water,  into  holes  that  were  waist- 
deep,  tumbling  over  sunken  rocks,  and  all  the  while  the 
utmost  noise  and  confusion  prevailing. 

As  we  thus  regained  the  use  of  our  eyes,  legs,  and 
voices,  the  bear  seemed  suddenly  seized  with  fear.  He 
turned  short  in  his  advance  upon  the  desperate  group 
that  awaited  his  attack  with  uplifted  guns,  and  urged  his 
confused  and  staggering  flight  toward  the  sheltering 
brushwood  of  the  precipitous  hill-side. 

Whether  he  shrank  before  the  blazing  eye  of  man's 
angry  intellect  at  bay,  or  fled  from  the  confused  and  un- 
usual uproar  which  we  created  in  his  rear,  it  is  hard  to 
say.  Certain  it  is,  however,  that  he  did  fly,  and,  as  he 
turned,  we  saw  the  no-longer-expected  flash  of  Williams's 
faithless  gun  and  heard  the  whistle  of  its  misdirected 
ball.  Another  flash  from  his  remaining  barrel,  another 
whistle  of  its  uncertain  messenger,  and  all  hope  of  stop- 
ping the  bear's  flight  was  gone.  Their  ammunition  was 
all  expended,  and  we  could  not  use  ours  from  the  asto- 
nishing fact  that  Lawton  and  Bruin  were  now  exactly  in 
line.  This  excited  huntsman  no  sooner  saw  that  Wil- 
liams's balls  had  passed  the  retreating  bear  without  dis- 
turbing a  hair  than  he  threw  down  his  gun  and  hat  and 
started  in  hot  pursuit.  Instead,  therefore,  of  our  party 
being  able  to  stop  and  fire  a  grand  volley,  we  were  forced 
to  join  in  the  pursuit  or  let  him  and  Bruin  have  "it  all  to 
themselves.  A  general  stampede,  therefore,  ensued,  and 
such  a  stampede  I  never  engaged  in  before.  Bruin  had 
evidently  given  up  all  idea  of  fighting,  and  was  devoting 
his  waning  strength  to  secure  his  safety  by  flight ;  and, 


THE    TRIAL    OF    SPEED.  443 

as  he  urged  his  laboured  aud  painful  retreat  through  the 
heavy  sand  and  between  fallen  trees  and  projecting  rocks, 
we  pressed  after  him  in  the  vain  hope  that  he  would  out- 
strip his  reckless  pursuer  sufficiently  to  let  us  fire  with- 
out the  risk  of  hitting  the  wrong  object.  But  our  .ex- 
ertions were  of  no  avail.  Lawton  ran  well,  and  was 
evidently  gaining  ground  instead  of  losing.  Nevertheless, 
Bruin,  having  considerably  the  start,  reached  the  edge  of 
the  hill-side  bushes,  in  which  he  disappeared  for  a  moment, 
and  then  again  broke  upon  the  view,  as,  with  out-hanging 
tongue,  quick  breathing,  and  laborious  movement,  he 
dragged  his  wounded  body  up  the  steep  and  broken  hill- 
side. 

He  was  now  considerably  above  Lawton,  and  a  few 
unsteady  shots  were  fired  over  the  latter's  head,  but  with 
no  apparent  efiect :  the  stampede  had  evidently  unsettled 
our  nerves.  The  flurried  figure  of  the  pursuer  now  in 
turn  disappeared  in  the  brushwood,  and  a  moment  later 
we  saw  him  climbing  with  frantic  strides  in  the  very 
wake  of  the  struggling  and  disabled  monster.  He  was 
evidently  gaining  on  him,  too,  and  we  expected  every 
moment  to  see  him  turn  and  hug  him  in  his  crushing 
embrace. 

At  this  stage  of  the  proceedings  I  found  myself  and 
several  others  bursting  our  difficult  paths  through  the 
tangled  brushwood,  and  urging  each  other  ahead  with 
our  voices,  but  in  reality  keeping  each  other  back  in  our 
extreme  eagerness.  Suddenly  we  were  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  and,  already  half  broken  down  by  the  run, 
commenced  its  toilsome  ascent. 

As  we  emerged  from  the  thick  brushwood  and  looked 


444  vi   RECKLESS   ACTION. 

up  toward  the  chase,  the  sight  which  flashed  upon  our 
eyes  was  awful  to  behold. 

Lawton  w^as  within  a  few  feet  of  the  bear,  who  still 
urged  his  painful  flight;  but  now  it  was  with  his  goiy 
head  and  flaming,  blood-injected  eyes  half  turned  with 
threatening  rage  upon  his  reckless  foe,  while  the  uplifted 
hand  and  general  action  of  the  latter  indicated  an  in- 
tensity of  mental  excitement  bordering  upon  insanity. 
He  evidently  was  preparing  to  seize  the  retreating  mon- 
ster by  his  long  and  shaggy  w^ool,  and  measure  his 
strength  with  the  remnant  of  that  which  we  had  been 
told  could  crush  the  bones  of  a  horse  as  though  they 
were  so  many  dried  sticks. 

"Lawton,  you  jackass!"  shouted  the  doctor,  in  a 
voice  of  frightened  strength,  "come  back!  Stop!  Don't 
touch  that  bear!  If  he  turns,  he'll  mash  every  bone 
in  your  body.     Come  hack!'' 

But  he  was  deaf  to  every  thing  like  reason.  His  livid 
face,  dishevelled  hair,  and  furious  energy  of  manner 
were  terrible  to  behold  as  he  threw  every  power  of  his 
muscular  frame  into  a  last  long  stride  upon  the  retreat- 
ing beast,  and  brought  down  his  powerful  grip  into 
the  yielding  wool. 

A  cry  of  mingled  alarm  and  warning  from  our  scat- 
tered ranks  seemed  to  recall  him  to  his  senses. 
'  As  the  bear  came  to  a  half-halt  and  turned  his  blood- 
shot eyes  and  bared  teeth  more  fully  upon  him  with  a 
threatening  growl,  a  flash  of  reason  seemed  to  illuminate 
his  turbid  brain  and  light  him  to  the  path  of  safety. 
He  relinquished  his  dangerous  hold  upon  the  retreat- 
ing monster,  who  at  once  resumed  his  flight  with  ap- 


"a  gun!  a  gun!  give  me  a  loaded  gun!"      445 

parently  a  reviving  strength  that  defied  further  pursuit. 
He  now  seemed  to  pass  up  the  hill  with  an  easy  and 
sliding  gait,  while  we  were  falling  over  hidden  logs,  or 
sinking  knee-deep  into  the  light,  leafy  soil  of  decaying 
vegetation  at  every  step.  Even  at  that  thrilling  moment, 
I  found  time  to  wonder  how  it  was  that  he  could  outstrip 
us  with  his  heart's  blood  spouting  from  two  gaping 
wounds  at  every  leap,  and  his  wounded  head  also  bleed- 
ing with  deadly  freedom. 

Lawton  gazed  after  him  with  clenched  and  uplifted 
hand,  and  a  look  of  wild  disappointment  gleaming  from 
his  unsettled  eye.  He  was  evidently  now  conscious  of 
the  madness  of  his  former  pursuit,  and  contented  himself 
with  devoting  the  remainder  of  his  strength  to  calling 
vehemently  for  a  loaded  gun. 

"A  gun !  a  gun !  Give  me  a  loaded  gun !  Why  don't 
some  of  you  shoot?  The  bear  will  get  away!  Follow 
him,  some  of  you!  I  can  go  no  farther."  And  he  sank 
upon  the  shelving  hill-side  in  the  weakness  of  overtaxed 
muscles  and  lungs. 

"There's  no  use  following  him  any  farther,"  exclaimed 
the  broken-winded  master.  "He's  got  away  from  us, 
and  it's  too  dark  in  these  bushes  to  hunt  for  him.  You 
can't  see  now  ten  feet  around  you ;  and  he  might  turn  the 
tables  by  waylaying  us  behind  some  rock  or  clump  of 
bushes.  My  ribs  are  not  over  and  above  strong.  I'm 
going  back."  He  spoke  word  after  word  with  a  rapid 
and  broken  utterance,  as  he  leaned  his  rifle  against  a 
decayed  log,  wiped  his  dripping  brow,  and  pufi'ed  and 
blew  like  a  grampus  in  shoal  water. 

"Yes;    but  he  can't  go  far,"  gasped  the   exhausted 


446       TRUTH,  POETRY,  AND    DELICACY    OF    EXPRESSION. 

pursuer.  "  He's  got  two  ounce-balls  through  him, —  one 
through  his  heart,  the  other  through  his  brain.  How- 
can  he  hold  out  long?  Look  here  at  the  great  clots  of 
blood  that  burst  from  him  as  he  jumped  this  log !  How 
long  can  he  live  now?''  He  pointed  to  the  large,  water- 
lily-like  leaf  of  an  arctic  plant,  whose  polished  and  con- 
cave surface  contained  prohably  a  gill  of  hardening 
blood.  "Look  at  that,'"  he  continued,  "and  tell  me 
that  it's  no  use  to  follow  him.  I'm  only  waiting  to  get 
my  breath  again." 

"Oh,  you  jackass!"  replied  the  breathless  doctor,  as 
he  gained  our  stopping-place.  "  Suppose  that  bear  had 
hugged  you :  where  would  you  have  been  now  ?" 

"  There's  more  truth  than  either  poetry  or  delicacy  of 
expression  in  your  salutation,  doctor,"  said  the  now 
rational  and  reviving  Mmrod.  "I  believe  I  was  a  jack- 
ass up  to  the  last  moment:  it  wouldn't  have  done  to  have 
held  on  to  him  any  longer,  I  don't  think." 

"Oh,  by  George! — ichat  a  climb!"  gasped  exhausted 
Williams,  as  he  staggered  against  a  tree  and  threw  down 
his  gun  in  the  rank  undergrowth  at  his  feet.  "Why 
couldn't  I  hit  him  ?     What  miserable  luck !" 

"Yes,  you  may  well  ask  that,"  said  the  disappointed 
voice  of  the  irritated  pursuer,  "Why  didn't  you  give 
your  gun  to  the  doctor  if  you  couldn't  shoot  yourself  ? 
You  talk  about  hunting  bear!" 

"Everybody  can  miss  sometimes,  I  suppose,"  retorted 
the  chagrined  hunter.  "Ybz^  fired  from  a  rest,  and 
while  he  was  standing  still :  anybody  could  have  done 
that." 

Here  the  discussion  was  interrupted  by  the  arrival  of 


THE    RESULT    OF   A    HURRIED   CONSULTATION.  447 

the  less  agile  members  of  the  chase^  and  a  hurried  cou- 
sultation  resulted  in  a  determination  to  follow  the  bear  as 
far  as  the  crown  of  the  hill  at  any  rate.  We  therefore 
separated  into  seven  parties  of  two  each,  spread  ourselves 
out  to  the  right  and  left,  and  renewed  the  ascent  with  a 
distance  of  ten  or  fifteen  feet  between  each  couple.  In 
this  way  we  finally  reached  the  top  of  the  hill;  but, 
though  we  had  beat  every  bush  with  our  guns  and 
peered  behind  every  rock  and  log,  we  could  see  no  fur- 
ther sign  of  him, — not  even  the  print  of  his  heavy  foot 
upon  the  yielding  soil,  or  a  drop  of  his  wasting  blood 
upon  the  hanging  leaves.  He  had  evidently  given  us  the 
slip;  and,  as  we  once  more  joined  company  upon  the  bare 
and  breezy  height,  we  looked  down  the  gloomy  path  we 
had  just  ascended,  and  wondered  if  he  might  not  still  be 
among  some  of  those  dense  bushes  or  behind  one  of 
those  large  boulders,  ready,  at  a  moment's  warning,  to 
hug  any  one  passing  within  his  reach.  It  was  now  quite 
dark  enough  to  make  our  position  unpleasant  as  we 
looked  and  wondered  in  this  way. 

"What  a  pity  we  hav'n't  an  extra  hour  of  daylight  to 
follow  him  up  !"  exclaimed  one. 

"  Let's  come  ashore  the  first  thing  in  the  morning  and 
bring  Jack  and  Brag  (our  two  dogs)  to  track  him  to  his 
den,"  said  another. 

"Yes;  they'd  track  him  with  a  vengeance,"  remarked 
a  third.     "  They've  got  too  much  sense  for  that" 

"Let's  look  around  a  little  longer,"  said  Lawton,  who 
had  now  possessed  himself  of  one  of  the  men's  carbines 
and  felt  more  eager  than  ever;  "he  canH  be  far  off." 

"It's  no  use  going  any  farther!"  remarked  the  cap- 


448  HOW  WE  RETUKN  ON  BOARD. 

tain,  as  he  peered  anxiously  through  the  increasing  gloom. 
"  We'd  better  be  getting  down  to  the  boat  before  it's  too 
dark  to  see  our  way.  If  it's  a  foggy  day  to-morrow  and 
we  can't  continue  the  survey,  we'll  come  back  and  hunt 
him  up  by  daylight.     Allans  !" 

And  so  we  returned  on  board  with  our  wearied  limbs 
and  disabled  boat,  and  left  old  Bruin  to  drag  his  bat- 
tered hull  to  some  quiet  corner,  there  to  stufi'  his  wounds 
with  leaves  and  growl  through  the  long  and  feverish 
night. 

The  next  day  was  unfortunately  beautifully  clear, — "just 
the  weather  for  surveying;"  and  so  we  continued  our 
work  and  left  our  wounded  foe  to  whiten  upon  the  moun- 
tain's side,  or  drag  through  heavy  weeks  and  months  of 
slow  recovery. 


CHAPTER  XXm. 

WE  ARRIVE  AT  ATAN  AND  FALL  IN  WITH  SOME  OLD  ACQUAINTANCES — AFTER 
WHICU  WE  NARROWLY  ESCAPE  BEING  FEASTED  TO  DEATH  BY  THE  RUSSIANS, 
ARE  TOLD  SOME  "STUNNING"  YARNS,  SEE  A  WHALE  STRUCK,  AND  FINALLY 
GET  SAFELY  TO  SEA. 

At  last  we  were  "making  the  best  of  our  way"  for 
Ayan,  and  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  imagine 
what  a  cheerful  feeling  pervaded  the  ship  at  the  prospect 
of  spending  a  week  in  such  a  port  as  we  supposed  that  to 
be.  When  it  was  first  determinately  known  that  we 
were  to  pass  the  summer  of  1855  along  the  inhospitable 
and  dreary  shores  of  the  Okotsk  Sea,  we  were  hanging  to 
a  quiet  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Hong-Kong,  engaged  in 
the  pleasures  of  recreation  after  a  stormy  cruise  of  six 
months,  as  well  as  in  the  labour  of  refitting  again  for 
sea. 

"We  immediately  began  to  hunt  up  authorities  on  the 
subject  of  that  sea  in  general,  and  were  surprised  that  we 
could  neither  find  individual  or  book  possessed  of  the 
desired  information.  There  was  a  woeful  falling-off*,  too, 
in  the  charts  of  that  frozen  part  of  the  world ;  and  the 
consequence  of  all  this  was  that  when  we  left  Hong- 
Kong  our  only  idea  of  the  ground  we  were  going  to  was 
that  it  was  the  Okotsk  Sea;  that  we  would  be  there  likely 
to  fall  in  with  hundreds  of  whale-ships;  that  millions  of 
wild  geese  and  ducks,  flying  from  the  heat  of  tropical 

summers,   took    refuge    in    its    extensive    lagoons    and 

29  "     449 


450  WHAT    WE    KNEW   OF    THE    OKOTSK. 

marshes;  that  they  were  so  tame  while  thus  aw^^y  from 
the  "haunts  of  man"  that  a  good  stick  would  do  more 
service  among  them  than  a  double-barrelled  shot-gun ; 
and  that  upon  the  eastern  coast  of  Siberia  (its  western 
boundary)  there  existed  a  large  and  flourishing  city, 
whose  streets  were  lit  by  gas,  whose  stately  mansions 
were  filled  by  hospitable  Russians,  and  whose  name  was 
Ayan.  A  report  was  also  spread  that  a  Eussian  count 
there  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  "Ringgold  Expedition," 
loaded  with  charts  and  instructions  from  the  emperor  at 
St.  Petersburg,  the  former  being  an  imperial  present  of 
all  previous  surveys  of  Russian  officers  in  those  waters, 
(designed  to  assist  us  in  our  work,)  while  the  latter  made 
it  the  especial  duty  of  the  said  Russian  nobleman  to  leave 
no  stone  unturned  to  render  the  stay  of  the  Americans 
as  jpleasant  as  possible.  I  need  scarcely  say  that  much  of 
all  this  subsequently  proved  to  be  disagreeably  tinctured 
with  romance;  but  there  was  also  in  it  a  very  fair  amount 
of  truth.  We  certainly  got  the  charts,  and,  if  not  treated 
well  by  a  nobleman,  were  at  least  nobly  treated  by  two 
men,  in  the  persons  of  the  accomplished  governor  and 
his  Falstaif-like  second  in  command, — "old  Frybark,"  as 
Hartman  soon  came  to  pronounce  his  name.  But  more 
of  him  anon. 

It  was  toward  the  close  of  the  evening  of  the  31st  of 
August,  1855,  that  we  stood  boldly  in  for  the  port  of 
Ayan,  under  all  sail  and  steam;  for,  though  coal  was 
scarce,  we  could  w^ell  afford  to  burn  it  now^,  as  we  were 
running  for  a  city  "whose  streets  were  lit  with  gas"  and 
where  coal  at  any  rate  must  be  abundant.  Besides,  we 
liad  a  four  or  five  knot  ebb-tide  setting  out  against  us, 


HOW  WE  ARRIVE  AT  AYAN.  451 

and  the  "  old  John"  would  scarcely  have  stemmed  that 
had  we  not  had  steam  to  help  our  sails. 

It  struck  two  bells  (5  p.m.)  in  the  first  dog-watch  as  we 
called  "all  hands  bring  ship  to  anchor;"  and  half  an  hour 
later  all  our  sails  were  furled  snugly  to  the  yards  and  the 
"old  John"  herself  (the  tide  having  slackened  as  we  got 
in-shore)  was  steaming  slowly,  through  quite  a  fleet  of 
American  whalers,  to  a  more  inner  anchorage.  Five 
minutes  more,  and  she  rounded  to  with  her  usual 
grace  (?),  let  go  her  anchor  in  a  quiet  part  of  the  harbour, 
entirely  removed  from  the  strong  tide  and  surrounded 
in  part  by  the  "snow-clad  mountains  of  Siberia,"  and,  as 
usual,  commenced  rolling  heavily  to  the  swell  which  set 
into  the  mouth  of  the  harbour. 

We  found  these  "snow-clad  mountains"  without  a  ves- 
tige of  snow  or  ice  near  them,  covered  by  a  luxuriant 
undergrowth  and  supporting  as  healthy-looking  forests 
of  spruce  and  birch  as  I  ever  saw.  From  a  distance  the 
entire  scene  had  much  more  of  a  tropical  than  of  an 
arctic  aspect;  and  the  unlooked-for  attentions  of  several 
wandering  mosquitos  served  to  help  us  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  "  snow-clad  mountains"  of  Siberia  were  not 
always  the  bleak  and  frozen  heights  of  which  we  had 
read  in  our  school-boy  days,  and  that,  after  all,  "  Siberia 
the  frozen"  might  be  a  very  pleasant  place.  To  test  the 
truth  of  this  conclusion,  several  of  us  took  a  boat  when 
the  work  was  over,  and  started  for  a  point  of  the  harbour 
around  which  one  of  the  whalers  told  us  we  should  find 
Ayan ;  and  as  we  rounded  the  point  and  shot  into  the 
pond-like  cove  from  the  rippling  beach  of  which  a  scat- 
tering and  streetless  town  ran  back  a  half-mile  or  more, 


452  "  MORE    LIKE   A   WHALE  !" 

we  could  not  avoid  giving  vent  to  our  disappointment. 
Instead  of  thanks  to  a  merciful  Providence  who  had  con- 
ducted us  thus  far  in  our  coffin-like  craft  with  safety  to 
our  bones  and  lives,  we  indulged  in  such  ejaculations  as 
the  following: — 

"Why,  hillo !"  said  one :  "this  can't  be  the  place  we've 
been  looking  forward  to  with  such  pleasure  for  such  a 
long  time." 

"I  don't  see  any  streets  to  he  lit  with  gas!"  put  in  a 
second. 

"I  wonder  if  that's  the  population  waiting  for  us  on 
the  wharf?"  asked  a  third. 

"  That  big  fellow  looks  very  much  like  a  Russian 
count,"  remarked  a  fourth. 

"  More  like  a  whale !"  put  in  a  fifth. 

"Hush!  he'll  hear  us!"  said  another.  "I'll  tell  you 
what,  he  looks  as  if  he  lived  well.  I  hope  his  larder  is 
solid." 

Here  the  boat's  keel  grated  sharply  on  the  shelving 
beach  of  slaty  shingle,  and  as  we  got  out  we  were  warmly 
received  by  four  persons  in  European  costume,  while  some 
half-dozen  others,  in  strange  dress  and  with  the  strongly- 
marked  features  of  the  Cossack,  lingered  in  the  rear. 

The  gentleman  who  looked  like  a  Eussian  count,  ac- 
cording to  one  of  our  party,  and  like  a  whale,  according 
to  another,  addressed  us  in  perfectly  good  English,  intro- 
ducing himself  as  the  agent  for  the  Russian  Fur  Com- 
pany, Mr.  Freighburg,  and   one   of   his   companions   as 

Dr. ,  of  the  same  service.    The  remaining  two,  much 

to  our  surprise,  proved  to  be  old  acquaintances, — members 
of  that  numerous  tribe  of  restless  Americans  who  live  in 


THEY  OFFER  TO  SELL  US  STORES.         453 

all  parts  of  the  world,  turning  over  tlieir  nimble  sixpences 
or  attempting  to  establish  new  forms  of  government  over 
dilapidated  states, — the  same,  in  short,  who,  when  last 
seen  by  us,  were  leaving  the  Japanese  port  of  Ha-ko- 
da-di  in  high  dudgeon  at  the  authorities  for  refusing  to 
let  them  land  their  cargo  of  "Yankee  notions"  and  esta- 
blish a  store  at  that  port.  They  now  pointed  to  an  im- 
mense block-house,  telling  us  that  the  Russians  had  re- 
ceived them  very  kindly  and  given  them  the  use  of  that 
building  as  a  storehouse,  and  that,  having  landed  all  of 
their  stores,  &c.,  they  had  sent  the  Leveret  on  a  whaling- 
voyage,  and  were  now  prepared  to  meet  any  reasonable 
calls  upon  their  invoice.  The  Russians,  they  said,  had 
bought  every  thing  from  them  at  a  certain  price,  but  left 
them  at  liberty  to  sell  to  others  provided  said  others 
would  jpay  higher.  This  we  thought  very  liberal  in  the 
Russians,  but  indicative  of  higher  prices  than  naval  offi- 
cers on  a  thousand  dollars  a  year  would  be  likely  to 
relish.     But  to  return  to  Ayan  and  "old  Frybark." 

"Any  coal  in  Ayan,  Mr.  Freighburg?"  asked  Lawton, 
as  the  jovial  old  fellow  took  two  of  us  by  the  arm  and 
urged  us  toward  his  house. 

"Any  beef  in  Ayan,  Mr.  Freighburg?"  asked  the 
purser:  "we've  been  living  on  fish  until  we're  getting 
scaly." 

"Beef,  yes!  coal,  no!  But  we  have  plenty  of  liquor. 
We  will  go  to  my  house  first  and  take  'twenty  drops,'  after 
which  we  will  talk  about  beef  and  coals.  I  suppose  the 
whale-ships  may  have  plenty  of  coals." 

He  was  a  large  and  powerful  man, — the  most  perfect 
ideal  of  a  strong  man,  I  think,  that  I  ever  saw,  weighing 


454  "OLD    FRYBAEK." 

about  three  hundred,  perhaps  more, — looking  as  if  he  was 
all  flesh,  but  feeling  as  if  he  was  all  iron,  and  carrying  his 
weight  with  a  light,  firm  step,  while  the  drops  of  exertion 
rolled  from  his  heated  brow.  As  we  walked  along  the 
broken  edge  of  a  dry  watercourse,  he  uncovered  his  head 
and  fanned  himself  with  his  broad-brimmed  Panama  hat, 
until  I  buttoned  my  pea-jacket  closer  around  me  and 
shivered  before  the  disturbed  air. 

"Why,  my  good  sir,  you  button  your  coat:  you  are 
cold?  "We  find  it  very  warm  to-day."  And,  sure  enough, 
when  we  reached  his  house  we  found  the  windows  and 
doors  all  open,  though  we  had  left  the  thermometer  at 
forty  degrees  on  shipboard,  and  that,  too,  before  the  set- 
ting sun  had  left  the  air  without  his  warming  rays. 

"Yes,  Mr.  Freighburg,  it  is  quite  cool  for  us,"  re- 
marked one  of  the  party:  "we  find  our  coats  quite  com- 
fortable." 

"Ah,  yes!  quite  cool.  Well,  we  want  'twenty  drops:' 
they  will  warm  us." 

And,  "suiting  the  action  to  the  word,"  he  brought  out 
one  of  the  largest  gin-bottles  I  ever  saw,  filled  a  dozen  or 
more  large  wine-glasses,  and,  drinking  ofi*  one, — "to  test 
its  quality,"  as  he  observed, — took  up  another,  and,  mo- 
tioning us  to  do  likewise,  continued : — 

"Well,  now  then!  we  drink  to  Kussia  and  America, 
— always  friends !" 

We  drank  the  toast  with  as  little  of  wry  in  our  faces 
as  possible,  and,  with  a  choking  sensation  about  the 
throat,  lit  cigars  and  walked  out  to  see  "  Ayan." 

We  found  it  composed  of  some  fifty  or  sixty  log-houses, 
most  compactly  put  together,  to  guard  against  the  exces- 


LOG    PALACES.  455 

sive  cold  of  their  long  winters,  and  of  various  plans  and 
dimensions.  The  roofs  were  all  painted  red,  without  a 
single  exception ;  and,  though  they  were  log-houses,  they 
were  such  log-houses!  Their  walls  were  of  huge  pine 
logs,  smoothly  planed,  and  made  to  fit  one  over  the  other 
like  the  bowls  of  so  many  spoons ;  and  the  cracks  thus 
left  were  tightly  calked  and  then  puttied.  They  were 
mostly  of  one  story;  but  then  such  "  one  stories"  as  they 
were !  Some  of  them  covered  a  vast  extent  of  ground, — 
the  governor's  mansion  in  particular,  in  which,  if  I  re- 
member rightly,  I  counted  twenty-three  apartments. 
"Old  Frybark's"  domicil  was  the  only  one  that  boasted 
a  second  floor,  and  he  acknowledged  that  to  be  more  for 
summer  use  than  any  thing  else. 

We  noticed  that  every  room  was  provided  with  a  huge 
fireplace,  and  that  the  windows  were  all  double,  the 
glasses  being  separated  about  six  inches  apart,  and  con- 
taining betw^een  them  an  ordinary  brick,  upon  which  was 
raised  a  small  pile  of  table-salt.  The  object  of  this  salt, 
they  told  us,  was  to  absorb  the  moisture  which  penetrated 
through  the  outer  window  before  it  could  enter  through 
the  second  into  the  apartment. 

"  Oh !"  exclaimed  our  jovial  host,  as  we  lounged  through 
the  twenty-three  rooms  of  the  governor's  vast  mansion, — 
"oh  !  it  is  such  a  pity  that  the  fear  of  the  Allies  drove  the 
governor  and  his  family  into  the  country !  See  here  this 
fine  rosewood  piano :  you  should  hear  his  beautiful  daugh- 
ters sing  to  its  deep-toned  sound,  or  see  them  dance  with 
the  doctor  and  the  aide-de-camp  around  this  large  room." 

We  could  not  avoid  acknowledging  our  deep  participa- 
tion in  his  reo^rets,  as  he  thus  showed  us  what  we  had 


456  ENGLISH    VANDALISM   VS.  FRENCH    BREEDING. 

missed.  We  had  not  lieard  the  rustle  of  a  lady's  dress 
for  more  than  six  months,  and  wanted  something  to 
make  us  feel  civilized  again. 

And  thus  we  lounged  from  room  to  room,  every  thing 
deserted  and  cheerless ;  for  the  governor  had  retreated, 
with  the  entire  population,  hundreds  of  miles  into  the 
interior  before  the  expected  demonstration  of  the  com- 
bined fleet,  burying  every  thing  that  they  could  not 
carry,  and  leaving  Mr.  Freighburg  (who  was  a  non-com- 
batant) to  look  out  for  things  in  general  and  the  buried 
articles  in  particular.  We  subsequently  saw  long  trenches 
which  the  Allies  had  dug  in  the  (not  always  vain)  search 
for  cannon,  nominally,  but,  in  reality,  for  any  and  all  public 
property  worth  taking  away.  (It  must  be  remembered 
that  Ayan  was  a  depot  of  the  Russian  Fur  Company,  and 
not  the  property  of  the  Czar,  hence  private  property/,  at 
any  rate,  should  have  been  respected.)  With  rare  polite- 
ness, the  retreating  governor  had  left  orders  with  Mr. 
Freighburg  to  put  his  house  and  billiard-table  at  the 
disposal  of  the  allied  officers. 

"I  am  sorry  that  I  cannot  extend  to  you  the  same 
civility,"  remarked  our  host:  "the  English  officers  took 
away  all  the  balls  and  cues  when  they  left.  Voild  the  table  ! ' ' 

"  Unheard-of  vandalism !"  exclaimed  the  master.  "  And 
how  acted  the  Frenchmen?" 

"  Oh  ! — the  Frenchmen  ?  Always  gentlemen.  You  see, 
the  governor  valued  this  table  very  much ;  for  after  it 
commences  snowing  we  are  confined  to  the  house  so 
much  that  one  must  have  something  to  make  amuse- 
ment. After  a  shell  freezes  over  the  snow,  then  we  dig 
our  way  out,  hitch  up  our  dogs  to  the  sleighs,  and  are 


"  TWENTY  drops"  AND    CHERRY-STEMMED    PIPES.       457 

our  own  masters.  Then  we  cut  streets  through  the  suow 
from  house  to  house,  and  begin  to  be  sociable.  But 
come 5  let  us  walk  a  little  more:  then  we  shall  want 
'twenty  drops.'  " 

So  we  walked  on,  turning  now  up  the  valley  toward 
the  small  but  neat-looking  Greek  church,  whose  red 
steeple  and  pendent  bell  looked  more  like  home  and 
civilization  than  any  thing  we  had  seen  for  a  long,  long 
time.  We  walked  on  and  on,  until  the  pale  Northern 
moon  shone  upon  our  evening  path,  and  then  turned  and 
(for  want  of  another  road)  retraced  our  steps  to  the  two- 
story  house,  where  "twenty  drops"  were  poured  out,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  cherry-stemmed  pipes  loaded  with  good 
Turkish  tobacco,  and  family-looking  old  rocking-chairs 
filled  by  wearied  limbs.  One,  tw^o,  three  hours  in  these 
sleepy  old  rockers,  the  yawning  "good-night,"  a  chilly 
pull  in  an  open  boat,  the  hoarse  hail  of  "boat  ahoy!" 
from  the  watchful  old  quartermaster,  the  flash  of  a  side- 
lantern  in  our  eyes,  a  steep  climb  up  the  rolling  side,  and 
we  were  again  upon  the  deck  of  our  wandering  home. 
I  went  to  bed,  and  dreamed  that  the  entire  English  nation 
were  condemned  to  an  eternal  game  of  billiards ;  and  I 
hope  sincerely  that  this  book  may  reach  England,  if  it  be 
only  to  let  them  see  how  some  of  the  officers  of  H.  B.  M. 
frigate  Sibyl  requited  the  high-bred  and  considerate  cour- 
tesy of  the  Russian  Governor  of  Ayan  during  the  summer 
of  1855. 

We  w^ere  so  much  pleased  with  "old  Frybark's" 
Turkish  pipes  and  tobacco,  as  w^ell  as  with  his  "  twenty 
drops"  and  off-hand  hospitality  of  the  previous  evening, 
that,  when  he  came  on  board  the  next  morning  and  told 


458  PERIODICAL    WATERCOURSES. 

US  that  "he  expected  all  hands  to  dine  with  him  that 
day,"  there  was  not  a  face  that  did  not  sparkle,  or  a 
tongue  that  tried  to  excuse  its  owner.  Probably  the  fact 
of  said  tongues  having  tasted  nothing  but  salt  provisions 
or  insipid  preserved  meats  (the  fish  and  turnips  of  Taousk 
Bay  excepted)  for  several  months,  combined  with  our 
host's  promise  that  his  table  should  groan  under  the 
delicacies  of  the  Ayan  season, — probably,  I  say,  this  com- 
bination may  have  had  something  to  do  wdth  our  spark- 
ling faces  and  consenting  voices.  But  let  facts  speak  for 
themselves. 

As  the  appointed  hour  for  dinner  approached,  we  called 
away  two  boats,  and,  leaving  the  "  old  John"  in  charge  of 
the  best  bower,  a  good  scope  of  chain,  the  officer  of  the 
deck,  and  engineer  of  the  day,  the  remainder  of  us  packed 
ourselves  into  them  and  started  for  the  quiet  landing  on 
the  slaty  beach  that  bounds  the  smooth  waters  of  the 
inner  harbour.  We  were  received  this  time  by  the 
yelping  of  hundreds  of  sleigh-dogs,  who,  being  abso- 
lutely necessary  during  the  winters  for  travelling-pur- 
poses, are  well  taken  care  of  when  the  summers  arrive, 
in  anticipation  of  future  need  of  their  services.  We 
looked  in  the  direction  whence  these  howls  and  yelps 
proceeded,  and  saw  a  large  log-house,  around  which  hun- 
dreds of  these  dogs  w^ere  lazily  basking  in  the  sun,  and 
thought  it  would  be  a  good  idea  to  pay  them  a  visit  on 
our  way  up.  We  therefore  crossed  the  dry  and  rocky 
bed  of  a  periodical  watercourse,  and  approached  their 
commodious  kennel.  These  watercourses  are  worth  a 
passing  notice. 

The  immense  quantity  of  snow  and  ice  which  covers 


SIBERIAN    SLEIGH-DOGS.  459 

that  whole  country  at  the  end  of  their  long  and  severe 
winters,  melting  sometimes  with  destructive  rapidity 
during  the  first  spell  of  warm  weather,  rushes  down  to 
the  sea  in  swollen  streams  that  uproot  trees,  dislodge 
huge  rocks,  and  most  eflectually  put  a  stop  to  all  travel- 
ling until  the  green  patches  once  more  appear  upon  the 
hill-sides,  and  the  turbid  streams,  gradually  decreasing  in 
dimensions,  finally  disappear  entirely,  leaving  their  un- 
even beds  spotted  here  and  there  with  silent  pools  as  the 
only  indication  of  their  short-lived  existence.  It  was 
over  one  of  those  uneven  and  spotted  beds  that  we  now 
picked  our  way,  and,  as  we  climbed  the  opposite  bank 
and  came  suddenly  upon  the  various  groups  of  dogs, 
they  raised  their  shaggy  heads  and  howled  most  piteously. 
And  that  was  the  extent  of  the  notice  that  they  deigned 
us.  There  was  no  wagging  of  tails,  no  bristling  of  the 
backs,  not  even  any  skulking  behind  corners, — nothing 
but  the  protracted  howl,  and  a  sleepy  indifierence  to  our 
proximity ;  and,  as  they  turned  their  vacant  eyes  upon  us, 
we  were  convinced  of  the  truth  of  the  character  ascribed 
to  their  peculiar  breed, — i.e.  that  they  are  utterly  worth- 
less in  every  point  of  view,  except  as  regards  their  docility 
and  power  of  endurance  before  a  sleigh.  Their  kennel, 
as  I  have  already  observed,  was  a  large  log-house,  and  in 
it  they  were  locked  up  at  night,  while  around  it  they  were 
fed  and  watched  during  the  day.  They  had  their  regular 
keepers,  whose  only  duty  consisted  in  attending  to  their 
wants  and  keeping  them  from  wandering  away.  They 
gave  us  a  parting  howl  as  we  left  their  unsavory  locality, 
and  again  crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  vernal  torrent  on 
our  way  to  "  old  Frybark's"  two-story  domicil. 


460  THE    BEAUTY    OP   A   VIVID   IMAGINATION. 

Arriving  in  good  time  at  the  door  of  that  hospitable 
mansion,  we  were  actually  received  with  open  arms.  The 
old  fellow  looked  as  if  he  longed  to  embrace  us  all,  but 
contented  himself  with  shaking  hands  crushingly,  calling 
loudly  for  the  doctor,  and  hurrying  us  up  to  his  outer 
chamber,  where  several  bottles  of  various  sizes,  shapes, 
and  colours,  gleamed  before  our  aflrighted  eyes. 

"Well,  now,  come  on!  A  little  too  late  for  a  Russian 
dinner,  but  'better  late  than  never.'  "We  will  now  take 
'twenty  drops,'  then  go  over  to  the  governor's  house  and 
eat  our  caviare,  ('  'Tis  caviare  to  the  general.'  See  Hamlet,) 
after  which  we  will  drink  some  champagne  and  have 
dinner.  My  house  is  so  small  that  I  have  set  the  go- 
vernor's table,  and  after  dinner  we  will  have  the  horses  at 
the  door  and  take  a  ride  into  the  country.  It  will  shake 
down  our  dinner  and  get  up  a  good  appetite  for  supper." 

"Supper!"  exclaimed  one  of  the  party:  "you  don't 
expect  to  keep  us  to  supper,  too  ?"  he  continued,  with  a 
look  of  dismay,  for  he  had  lunched  heartily  upon  a  tempt- 
ing beefsteak  before  leaving  the  ship,  and  shrank  aghast 
before  the  rapid  enumeration  of  what  was  yet  before  him. 

"  Keep  you  to  supper  ?  Yes  !  and  to  a  champagne-dance 
after  supper,  too.  We  shall  be  in  want  of  music  and 
ladies,  but  then  we  can  whistle  for  ourselves  and  imagine 
that  some  of  us  are  the  governor's  beautiful  daughters. 
Allans !  let  us  go  and  take  our  caviare." 

We  went,  and  such  a  lunch  as  it  was ! — equal  to  an 
ordinary  meal.  And  then  the  dinner !  Kothing  to  be 
seen  on  the  long,  narrow  table,  save  wines  and  vases  of 
flowers,  plates,  knives  and  forks,  and  piles  of  glasses. 
But  then  just  cast  your  eye  into  the  kitchen,  and  see 


OLD    FRYBARK'S    RUSSIAN   DINNER.  461 

there  the  dozens  of  huge  dishes  loaded  with — as  "old 
Fry  bark"  had  promised — the  delicacies  of  the  Ayau 
season,  and  awaiting  their  turn  to  be  introduced  to  the 
already  half-sated  guests.  Salt  and  fresh  water  fish 
done  up  in  every  imaginable  style ;  beef  looking  more 
unlike  beef,  in  its  numberless  modes  of  preparation,  than 
I  had  ever  before  seen  it;  vegetables  here  and  there,  and 
pastries  without  end.  I  never  again  wish  to  attend  a 
dinner  at  Ayan,  with  "old  Frybark"  as  the  host; — at  any 
rate,  not  until  some  cure  for  apoplexy  is  discovered,  or 
the  Russians  lose  some  of  their  relish  for  fraternizing 
with  Americans.  I  was  so  unfortunate  as  to  find  myself 
alongside  of  a  miserably-hospitable  priest  of  the  Greek 
Church,  who,  finding  himself  unable  to  entertain  me  in 
a  conversational  point  of  view,  divided  his  attention  be- 
tween keeping  my  plate  and  glasses  full  and  his  own 
empty.  In  spite  of  his  large  appetite,  he  was  a  fine-look- 
ing, middle-aged  man,  rather  below  the  ordinary  stature, 
dressed  in  a  flowing  robe  of  black  silk,  and  wearing  his 
dark  and  curling  hair  divided  down  the  middle  and 
hanging  over  his  shouldei's  in  flowing  ringlets.  His  dark 
and  silky  beard  reached  almost  to  his  waist,  and  his  hands 
were  as  delicate  as  those  of  a  lady.  He  had  a  smile  of 
great  sweetness,  and  was  treated  by  the  Russians  with 
good-natured  respect  and  consideration.  He  was  a  mar- 
ried man,  and  had  returned  from  the  interior  with  his 
family  only  the  night  before.  On  the  whole,  we  had  a 
very  pleasant  time  alongside  of  each  other,  seeing  that 
neither  of  us  spoke  a  word  of  each  other's  or  any  com- 
mon language. 

At  last  this  abundant  dinner  was  ended,  and,  singular  as 


462  CANNOT   IMAGINE   WHAT    AILS    HIS    HORSE. 

the  assertion  may  seem,  we  did  ride  into  the  country  imme- 
diately after  it.  "Old  Frybark"  was  in  the  best  imagin- 
able spirits ;  we  were  all  lively  from  the  effects  of  good 
champagne,  and  one  of  the  restless  Americans,  before 
alluded  to,  even  beyond  that  point.  It  was  amusing  to 
see  our  host  mount  his  tough-looking  little  horse.  I 
think  he  must  have  weighed  nearly  three  hundred  before 
dinner,  and  how  much  more  as  he  got  on  horseback  I 
should  be  afraid  to  say.  Taking  wines  at  eight  pounds 
to  the  gallon,  and  viands  at  something  less,  I  should  say 
that  the  horse  must  have  capered  under  at  least  three 
hundred  and  twenty  or  thirty  as  he  touched  him  with  his 
spur  and  pointed  him  at  the  steep  breast  of  one  of  the 
towering  hills  by  which  the  city  is  enclosed. 

Our  ride  was  both  an  exciting  and  pleasant  one, — ex- 
citing to  the  confused  ideas  of  the  restless  American,  who 
"couldn't  for  the  life  of  him  tell  what  was  the  matter 
with  his  horse"  until  he  had  been  thrown  twice,  when 
he  arrived  at  the  very  tardy  conclusion  that  "that 
champagne  must  have  been  very  strong," — and  pleasant 
to  us,  who  had  been  aware  of,  and  guarded  against,  said 
strength.  Our  road  took  us  over  mountains,  along 
patches  of  hard  sea-beach,  up  valleys,  across  streams, 
and,  finally,  brought  us  vis-a-vis  with  his  excellency  the 
Governor  of  Ayan  and  suite,  who  were  coming  in  on  a 
hand-gallop  from  their  country- retreat  to  do  us  the 
honour  of  visiting  the  "  old  John"  and  assisting  Mr. 
Freighburg  in  the  duties  of  hospitality.  His  excellency 
received  us  with  great  warmth  of  manner,  and  told  us, 
through  our  now  excited  host,  that  he  had  been  expecting 
us  for  some  time,  and  that  if  we  had  only  arrived  before 


HIS  EXCELLENCY  THE  GOVERNOR  OF  AYAN.     468 

the  Allies  he  might  have  received  us  in  a  manner  more 
in  keeping  with  his  feelings ;  but,  as  things  now  stood, 
we  must  excuse  any  apparent  neglect,  and  take  the  ex- 
pressed will  for  the  impossible  deed. 

We  replied,  with  equal  suavity  of  manner,  that  we  had 
already  been  almost  feasted  to  death  by  his  accomplished 
(here  "  old  Frybark"  blushed  scarlet,  and  looked  in  other 
respects  quite  overpowered)  representative,  and  that  if 
he  did  not  mercifully  interpose  his  authority  there  was  no 
telling  what  grave  consequences  might  ensue.  At  this 
point  we  all  laughed,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and,  giving 
the  reins  to  our  fretful  little  horses,  galloped  back  to 
Ayan ;  the  governor  and  captain  leading  off,  "  old  Fiy- 
bark"  and  our  doctor  next,  then  the  Russian  doctor  and 
Carnes,  and,  finally,  "the  crowd  in  general"  bringing  up 
the  confused  rear,  while  the  restless  American  darted 
about  in  all  directions  upon  his  irritated  horse,  with  the 
evident  desire  of  attracting  the  admiration  of  his  excel- 
lency to  his  superior  (?)  horsemanship 

And  thus  w^e  re-entered  Ayan,  where  a  fresli  edition 
of  Turkish  pipes  and  tobacco,  of  "  twenty  drops,"  and 
of  pressing  invitations  to  partake  bountifully,  occupied 
the  time  that  must  yet  elapse  before  the  promised  supper. 

Fortunately,  we  were  spared  that  promised  supper  for 
the  present,  but  with  the  express  understanding  that  it 
was  to  come  off  on  the  following  night.  "  Distance  lent 
enchantment  to  the  view,"  as  we  settled  back  into  the 
old  arm-chairs,  and  talked  about  the  war,  the  late  van- 
dalisms of  the  English  officers,  the  manners  and  customs 
of  the  several  tribes  of  Eastern  Siberia,  the  price  of  furs, 
and  of  statistics  in  general.     The  governor  spoke  quietly, 


464  EXTKAVAGANT    PRICE    OF    FURS. 

but  feelingly,  of  tlie  great  losses  and  hardships  which  he 
had  been  forced  to  entail  on  the  population  by  taking  them 
away  from  their  homes  into  a  comparative  wilderness,  and 
gave  us  several  interesting  anecdotes  of  Siberian  country- 
life.  There  was  nothing  in  this  prolonged  conversation 
that  surprised  us  more  than  a  remark  of  Mr.  Freigh- 
burg's  in  regard  to  the  high  prices  which  the  company 
realized  for  many  of  their  furs.  He  told  us,  among 
other  things,  that  their  hunters  were  sometimes  so  for- 
tunate as  to  take  a  species  of  beaver — never  more  than 
two  or  three  during  the  whole  season,  however — whose 
skins  sold  in  St.  Petersburg  for  the  enormous  sum  of  one 
thousand  rubles,  (nearly  eight  hundred  dollars,)  and  that 
the  silver  fox  often  sold  as  high  as  three  hundred. 

We  expressed  our  surprise  that  a  beaver's  skin  should 
sell  for  so  large  a  sum,  remarking  that  in  the  northwest- 
ern sections  of  the  United  States  they  were  quite  plenti- 
ful, and  the  fur  comparatively  cheap. 

"Ah!  but,  my  dear  sir,"  he  replied,  "you  have  not 
this  beaver  of  which  I  speak  in  your  country.  "We  have 
the  inferior  kind  of  beaver  here,  too,  but  it  is  a  very 
different  animal  from  the  one  I  speak  of.  The  skin  of 
this  one  is  just  large  enough  to  make  a  fine  high  collar 
for  a  winter  cloak,  and  the  Russian  noblemen  who  want 
such  collars  must  pay  their  one  thousand  rubles  or  go 
without." 

We  had  every  reason  to  believe  "  old  Frybark"  to  be 
a  man  of  strict  veracity,  and  his  assertion  was,  moreover, 
sustained  by  the  others  present,  who  spoke  of  it  as  a 
matter  of  course ;  still,  I  hesitate  to  publish  such  an  un- 
heard-of price  for  a  beaver's  skin,  and  must  refer  all 


ANOTHER  EVENING  PARTY.  465 

skeptics  on  the  subject  to  "old  Frybark"  himself.  I 
myself  believe  that  the  price  was  as  he  stated. 

And  now,  if  the  reader  vnll  imagine  twenty-four  hours 
passed,  (during  which  time  the  governor  had  returned  to 
the  inner  settlement,  leaving  his  aide  to  assist  "  old  Fry- 
bark"  in  entertaining  us,)  and  pretty  much  the  same 
party  reassembled  in  our  host's  "second-floor  sitting- 
room,"  in  company  with  Turkish  pipes  and  tobacco,  nu- 
merous bottles  of  "twenty  drops,"  and  the  prospective 
supper  which  was  at  length  at  hand, — if  he  will  imagine 
us  in  that  room,  I  say,  and  himself  as  a  listener,  he  will 
hear  what  we  listened  to  upon  that  occasion,  and  doubt- 
less be  as  much  surprised  as  we  were. 

"You  talk  about  beef!"  said  "old  Frybark,"  as  he 
refilled  his  huge  pipe  and  drew  a  match  across  the  bottom 
of  the  box.  "  You  say  you  had  too  much  yesterday,  and 
yet  you  want  whole  bullocks  now  to  take  on  board  ship ! 
Well,  the  natives  will  drive  three  in  for  you  this  evening. 
When  the  English  came  we  had  to  drive  them  all  back 
into  the  country." 

He  lit  his  large  pipe  and  puffed  away  complacently, 
with  his  gaze  riveted  upon  the  bottle  of  "  twenty  drops" 
as  Dickens  says  old  John  Willett  was  wont  to  admire  the 
kitchen  boiler. 

"  You  talk  about  eating  and  drinking  as  if  we  ate  and 
drank  a  great  deal,"  he  at  length  continued:  "you 
should  see  one  of  these  Tongouse  [Tongouse  Indians] 
drink  butter  if  you  want  to  see  how  much  a  man  used 
to  cold  weather  can  drink." 

'■'■Drink  butter!"  exclaimed  one  of  the  party.     "Why 

don't  they  eat  it?" 

30 


466      A  TONGOUSE   DRINKS    FORTY   POUNDS    OF   BUTTER. 

"Because  they  like  to  drink  it  better,"  was  the  reply. 
"Ihave  seen  one  of  them  drink  forty  pounds  and  then 
go  to  sleep." 

"Did  he  ever  wake  up  again?"  asked  a  surprised 
voice. 

"None  of  your  marines'  yarns  here,  old  gentleman," 
remarked  another. 

"Oh,  Mr.  Freighburg!"  exclaimed  a  fourth,  in  a  depre- 
catory tone, — ^^ forty  pounds?" 

"Forty?  Yes;  any  one  of  these  Tongouse  that  you 
see  will  drink  iioenty  as  an  everyday  affair;  but  there  is 
one  fellow  in  particular,  who,  as  I  say,  once  drank  forty 
and  then  went  to  sleep.     I  pledge  you  my  honour." 

"Fbw  didn't  sec  him,  Mr.  Freighburg?"  I  asked,  in  a 
hesitating  voice;  for,  after  commencing  the  question,  I 
suddenly  remembered  that  he  had  already  pledged  his 
honour  to  its  truth. 

"Yes  I  did,  though,"  he  replied;  "and  I'll  tell  you  how 
it  was.  A  friend  of  mine  was  as  skeptical  as  you  are, 
and  so  I  just  said  to  him,  'Mr.  Henry,  I  see  that  you  don't 
believe  what  I  tell  you.' 

"'Not  a  bit  of  it,'  he  said. 

"'Well,'  said  I,  'you  pay  for  forty  pounds  of  butter 
that  is  in  the  Company's  warehouse,  and  give  it  to  him, 
and  if  he  doesn't  drink  it  all  before  noon  (this  was  about 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning)  I'll  pay  you  back  the 
money.' 

"'Agreed!'  he  exclaimed,  and  commenced  to  feel  at 
once  for  his  pocket-book;  but  I  told  him,  'Never  mind  the 
money  yet  a  while,'  and  sent  my  servant  to  hunt  up  the 
Tongouse. 


THOSE   THREE   FELLOWS  HAD   A   NARROW    ESCAPE.      467 

"After  a  while  he  came;  and  when  he  heard  what  it 
was  all  about,  and  saw  the  butter,  his  eyes  sparkled,  and 
he  rubbed  himself,  as  if  he  already  had  it  in  him.  lie 
just  warmed  it  a  little  to  make  it  run,  and  then  set  to 
work.  At  noon  he  had  drank  it  all  and  was  asleep  in 
the  sun,  with  the  butter  running  from  his  pores  in  the 
shape  of  greasy  perspiration." 

"Ugh!  horrible!"  exclaimed  a  disgusted  voice:  "what 
beasts  they  must  be !  Are  they  fit  for  any  thing  but  to 
drink  butter  and  sleep?" 

"Yes;  they  drink  whale-oil  almost  as  well,  and  fight 
bears  much  better  than  you  or  I  could.  You  were  speak- 
ing of  your  encounter  with  a  bear  up  the  coast  the  other 
day:  had  one  of  these  Tongouse  been  there  instead  ot 
your  three  fellows  with  their  clubbed  guns,  he  would  not 
have  got  away  as  he  did.  Those  three  fellows  had  a  nar- 
row escape: — ^you  don't  know  how  narrow.  Had  not  the 
bear  been  frightened  by  the  outlandish  noises  you  made  in 
rushing  to  the  rescue,  he  would  have  made  short  work  of 
them.  You  might  as  well  expect  to  stun  a  whale  by  hit- 
ting him  over  the  head  with  a  boat-hook,  as  to  stop  a  bear 
with  a  clubbed  musket.  You  should  have  had  a  Tongouse 
there :  they  do  not  know  what  fear  is.  They  attack  the  bear 
single-handed,  with  a  long  knife  as  their  only  weapon,  and 
always  win  the  battle  unless  he  runs.  They  are  generous 
as  well  as  brave.  Their  mode  of  warfare  you  will  doubt- 
less look  upon  as  foolishly  liberal.  They  always  hunt  with 
this  knife, — which,  with  the  handle,  is  from  three  to  four 
feet  long, — and  if  they  come  upon  a  bear  asleep,  instead 
of  killing  him  at  once,  they  catch  him  by  his  wool,  give 
him  a  shake  to  wake  him  up,  and  then  step  back  out  of  his 


468  HOW    THE    TOXGOUSE    FIGHT   BEARS. 

way  aucl  tell  him  to  come  on.  If  he  moves  off  instead 
of  fighting,  they  throw  stones  at  him  to  make  him  angry, 
and  then  when  he  rushes  up  to  hug  they  receive  him  on 
one  knee,  with  the  butt  of  the  knife  braced  against  the 
ground,  and  the  point  ready  for  his  heart.  I  suppose  that 
sounds  strange  too,  but  Ws  true.'' 

"You  are  quizzing  us,  Mr.  Freighburg,"  remarked  one 
of  the  party,  dryly. 

He  glanced  quickly  at  the  speaker,  and  said,  earnestly, 
"I  assure  you,  upon  my  honour,  that  I  am  only  telling 
you  facts,     Foz7a  M.  the  Governor's  aide:  ask  him." 

"Well,  I  beg  pardon,"  replied  the  doubter,  with  a 
smile  that  started  the  old  fellow's  tongue  as  loose  as 
ever.     "Give  us  some  more:  it's  quite  edifying." 

"Yes,  but  I  take  'twenty  drops'  first.  Smoking  is  dry 
work,  and,  when  you  come  to  talk  too,  it's  parching." 
He  knocked  the  ashes  from  his  pipe,  laid  it  on  the  table, 
and,  as  usual,  filled  all  of  the  glasses.  I,  having  already 
burned  my  throat  with  his  modest  "twenty  drops,"  got  the 
start  of  the  party  by  complaining  of  a  sick  headache — 
which  I  really  had — and  begged  to  be  excused  from  join- 
ing. Some  offered  one  excuse,  some  another,  and  others 
manfully  reached  for  their  glasses,  but  with  the  air  of 
martyrs.  He  cast  a  most  reproachful  glance  at  us  who 
had  declined,  emptied  his  glass,  refilled  his  pipe,  and  con- 
tinued. 

But  before  I  proceed  any  further  I  must  add  a  word  in 
regard  to  the  "butter-drinking  feat"  of  the  Tongouse.  I 
published  it  some  time  since  in  a  Philadelphia  weekly 
paper,  and   shortly  after  met   an   old   acquaintance, — a 


VERIFICATION   OF   THE   "  FORTY-POUNDS"   STORY.       469 

purser  in  the  navy,  and  who  is  at  this  very  time  stationed 
at  the  Philadelphia  ITavy-yard. 

"Look  here !"  he  said  to  me,  after  we  had  induls-ed  in 
the  usual  remarks  as  to  the  state  of  the  weather:  "  that  was 
quite  interesting  about  the  butter.  But  you  don't  expect 
people  to  believe  it,  do  you?" 

"I  can't  say  I  do,"  was  my  reply.  "Still,  it  is  my  own 
belief  that  it  is  true." 

"  Oh,  yes,  I  know,"  he  returned.  "And  now  I'll  tell  you 
something  singular.  I  had  a  nephew  who  once  went  in  a 
whale-ship  for  his  health,  and  when  he  returned  he  told 
me  that  same  yam  as  having  happened  to  himself.  He  must 
have  been  the  'Mr.  Henry:'  that  wasn't  the  true  name, 
was  it?" 

I  candidly  acknowledged  that,  having  forgotten  the 
name,  I  had  taken  that  of  Henry  for  want  of  a  better; 
and  now,  like  "old  Frybark"  referring  to  the  governor's 
aide,  I  can  only  say  to  any  skeptic  of  Philadelphia  who 
may  read  this  book,  "  Voila  M.  the  purser  of  your  navy- 
yard:  'ask  him.'  "  And  now  let  us  return  to  the  enlight- 
ening conversation  of  our  Falstaff-like  host. 

"That  afi'air  of  the  butter  was  a  good  thing  for  all  con- 
cerned," he  continued.  "I  sold  forty  pounds  for  the 
Company,  the  Tongouse  got  a  fine  dinner,  and  Mr.  Henry 
saw  something  that  he  would  never  have  believed  without 
seeing.  Now,  don't  some  of  you  want  to  pay  for  twenty 
pounds?  I'll  show  you  two  men  at  once  who'll  fight  for 
the  liberty  to  drink  it." 

Before  any  one  could  accept  or  decline  his  offer,  the 
door  opened,  and  in  walked  a  most  singular  specimen  of 
the  genus  homo.     He  was  below  the  ordinary  height,  but 


470  URIAH    HEEP   IN   EASTERN   SIBERIA. 

possessed  of  immoderately-thin  long  arms  and  legs.  He 
had  a  huge  head  resting  upon  a  cornstalk-like  neck,  a 
large  and  flabby-looking  mouth,  a  most  disagreeable 
countenance,  and  a  manner  at  once  obsequious  and  pre- 
suming. His  complexion  was  horribly  sallow,  and  hia 
huge  feet  moved  over  the  creaking  floor  without  seeming 
to  leave  it  at  all.  His  general  appearance  indicated  a 
long  ride  accomplished,  as  he  advanced  to  Mr.  Freigh- 
burg  and  spoke  a  few  words  in  Russian.     When  he  had 

ended  he  was  presented  to  the  party  as  Mr. ,  just 

arrived  from  St.  Petersburg. 

"Just  arrived  from  St.  Petersburg!"  exclaimed  several 

voices  in  a  breath.    "  Why,  Mr. ,  how  long  have  you 

been  on  the  road?" 

"Rather  longer  than  usual,"  was  the  smiling — such  a 
smiling! — reply.  "To-morrow  will  be  nine  months  since 
I  left,  but  my  health  has  been  bad,  and  I  travelled  by 
short  stages.  I  have  only  ridden  forty  miles  to-day,  but 
that  is  much  for  me."  He,  too,  spoke  English  quite  well, 
and,  as  he  took  a  seat,  crossed  his  pipestem-like  legs,  and 
folded  his  long  hands  over  his  knee,  I  expected  to  hear 
him  add,  "But  I'm  very  'umble,"  so  much  did  he  remind 
me  of  an  old  acquaintance, — one  Uriah  Heep,  of  David 
Copperfield  memory. 

"Don't  imagine  that  it's  such  a  very  terrible  journey, 
after  all !"  exclaimed  "  old  Frybark."  "  The  Government 
Post  does  it  in  sixty  days,  and  when  the  news  of  the  war 
came  it  was  only  fifty-eight  on  the  road.  You  can  easily 
make  the  trip  in  eighty  days  at  a  cost  of  five  hundred 
dollars :  in  fact,  it  is  only  a  pleasant  travel.  You  go  from 
here  to  river  on  horseback,  —  a  distance  of  some 


THE    TONGOUSE    AND    THEIR    REINDEER-BUCKS.  471 

six  hundred  miles  ;  then  take  a  boat  for  several  hundred 
more  ;  then  leave  the  river  and  travel  several  hundred 
farther  in  light  wagons  or  on  horseback :  you  cross  many 
rivers  and  mountains,  follow  the  windings  of  numerous 
valleys,  and  see  a  splendid  country  and  many  singular 
people,  during  this  part  of  the  trip.  Then  you  begin  to 
arrive  at  a  more  cultivated  region  and  to  see  signs  of 
civilization,  and  in  a  week  or  so  more  you  are  at  St.  Pe- 
tersburg. You  see  this  tobacco,  that  champagne,  that 
loaf-sugar,  that  tea,  that  caviare  ? — they  all  came  over  that 
long  road,  sewed  up  in  raw  hide,  and  always  arrive  in 
the  good  condition  you  see  these  in." 

"What  a  fine  trip  it  would  be  if  we  could  only  run  the 
'  old  John'  on  a  safe  rock,  step  quietly  on  shore,  and  go 
home  by  St.  Petersburg !"  exclaimed  one  of  our  party: 
"she  couldn't  drown  us  then, — confound  her  !" 

Here  our  host  w^as  called  out  to  see  another  arrival,  and 
the  next  moment  we  heard  his  large  voice  calling  for  all 
who  wanted  to  see  how  the  Tongouse  travelled  on  rein- 
deer to  come  down.  A  general  rush  was  now  made  for 
the  door,  where  the  new  arrivals — in  the  shape  of  two 
Tongouse  Indians — were  leaning  against  their  clean- 
limbed reindeer-bucks,  whose  branching  antlers  seemed 
in  themselves  heavy  enough  to  bear  down  the  elevated 
heads  and  arched  necks  of  their  fleet-looking  owners. 
They  had  travelled  seventy  miles  that  day  and  yet  looked 
fresh  and  lively.  The  saddles  were  girthed  well  upon 
the  fore-shoulders, — almost  on  the  neck, — and  a  single 
thong  of  hide  served  as  a  bridle.  One  of  our  party  tried 
to  mount,  as  any  one  would  mount  a  horse ;  but  the 
animal  bent  to  the  ground  and  became  restive  under  the 


472      HOW  THE  CATTLE  GET  FOOD  IN  WINTER. 

unusual  proceeding.  The  Tongouse  now  mounted  into 
the  saddle  by  climbing  up  over  his  neck,  and  he  stood  as 
firm  as  if  a  feather  only  had  been  blown  against  him. 
They  seemed  to  be  very  strong  in  the  fore-shoulders  and 
just  the  contrary  in  the  back  and  quarters.  For  our  edi- 
fication the  second  Tongouse  now  mounted,  and  a  short 
race  ensued,  in  which  they  seemed  to  get  along  quite 
well,  but  by  no  means  as  swiftly  or  gracefully  as  many 
of  our  ordinary  horses  :  probably  they  would  have  shown 
to  better  advantage  had  they  not  already  travelled  seventy 
miles. 

"It's  a  mystery  to  me,  Mr.  Freighburg,"  I  remarked, 
"how  you  manage  to  feed  your  stock  during  such  long 
winters, — these  hundreds  of  horses  and  dogs  which  we 
see,  and  the  numberless  reindeer  which  you  say  are 
owned  farther  in  the  interior.  I  don't  even  see  sheds 
to  shelter  them  under." 

"Why,  bless  your  heart!"  answered  the  old  fellow, 
"we  let  our  horses  and  reindeer  go  free  as  soon  as  the 
cold  weather  commences,  and  they  wander  about  in 
droves  of  hundreds  and  thousands,  finding  plenty  to 
keep  them  from  starving  during  the  winter.  They  dig 
down  through  the  snow  for  dried  grass,  &c.,  and  it  is 
only  toward  the  spring,  when  the  snow  thaws  and  then 
freezes  again,  thus  covering  the  ground  with  a  solid  mass 
of  ice, — it  is  only  at  that  time  that  we  have  to  feed  them 
until  the  weather  gets  warm  and  melts  the  ice  away. 
Now,  one  horse  alone  could  not  clear  away  the  snow  for 
food,  and  thus  you  find  them  in  large  droves,  as  I  say. 
Their  great  number  also  adds  to  their  security  from  the 
attacks  of  wild  beasts.     Now,  as  to  sheds  for  sheltering 


TWO    EXCITING    EVENTS.  473 

tliem  from  the  cold,  we  have  none  at  all ;  and,  though  the 
centigrade  thermometer  often  sinks  as  low  as  twenty-five 
degrees  below  zero,  we  seldom  hear  of  any  of  them  freez- 
ing to  death.  You  see,  when  it  is  so  very  cold  we  really 
do  not  feel  it  as  much  as  if  it  were  warmer;  for  the  air  is 
always  perfectly  still  and  dry,  and  it  is  with  the  sharp, 
damp  winds  that  we  suffer  most." 

And  thus  passed  another  evening;  and  the  next  day 
they  were  to  dine  with  us,  and  upon  the  following  we 

were  to  lunch  with  them,  and  then to  sea  once  more 

in  our  miserable  old  rattletrap. 

The  next  day  came  and  the  dinner  passed  off  finely ; 
and  then  the  short  night  and  supper  on  shore  followed, 
and  the  early  sun  ushered  in  "the  last  day."  This  last 
day  in  port  was  remarkable  for  two  things, — the  first  of 
which  was  fearfully  important,  as  Hartman  expressed  it, 
while  the  second  was  exciting  in  the  extreme  to  all  who 
witnessed  it.  The  first  was  the  purchase  of  an  air- 
tight hogshead  of  fine  flour  from  a  charitable  whaler,  that 
was  sufficient  to  insure  us  good  bread  until  our  arrival  at 
San  Francisco ;  and  the  second  was  the  striking  of  a  large 
whale  within  gunshot  of  our  ship.  But  let  my  journal 
give  us  a  few  pages  in  regard  to  this  latter : — 

"  We  had  been  at  anchor  three  days.  Our  field-books 
were  full  of  data  for  the  harbour-chart,  and  the  next 
morning's  early  sun  was  to  see  us  under  way  for  the 
river  Amoor.  During  these  three  days  we  had  worked 
hard  in  our  boats  with  sextant  and  lead-line,  and  during 
the  three  nights  still  harder  at  the  Russian  governor's 
table  with  knife  and  fork.  In  fact,  we  had  been  almost 
feasted  to  death  by  these  fraternizing  Northmen,  and  had 


474  EFFECTS    OF    CLIMATE    ON   THE    APPETITE. 

determined  to  remain  on  board  this  day  at  least,  to  repair 
damages  and  recover  from  the  effects  of  their  overdone 
hospitality  and  roast  beef,  in  spite  of  the  promise  they 
had  extracted  from  us  to  attend  another  lunch. 

"  They  were  a  glorious  set  of  fellows,  those  very  Rus- 
sians,— strong-framed,  large-hearted,  and  with  astonish- 
ingly-capable heads  and  stomachs,  if  one  might  judge 
from  the  quantity  of  wine  and  viands  which  they  de- 
stroyed at  most  frequent  and  outlandish  periods.  They 
would  drink  three  or  four  wine-glasses  of  raw  gin  or 
whiskey  before  each  meal, — calling  it  by  the  modest  com- 
bination of  "twenty  drops," — and  raise  their  brows  in 
surprise  at  our  remarkable  abstinence,  we  only  indulging 
in  one  glassful.  They  would  eat  an  ordinary  meal  just 
before  each  regular  repast,  calling  it  by  the  simple  ex- 
pression of  "getting  ready,"  and  accuse  us  of  not  liking 
some  particular  dish,  simply  from  the  fact  of  our  slacken- 
ing up  after  having  already  eaten  as  much  as  two  ordinary 
men  before  it  was  brought  on  the  table.  In  short,  they 
were  men  who  could  eat,  drink,  and  keep  late  hours 
without  experiencing  any  of  those  annoying  results 
which  too  often  present  themselves  in  the  shape  of  night- 
mare, unpleasant  pains  about  half-way  between  one's 
head  and  heels,  &c.  &c. ;  and,  such  being  their  powers  of 
endurance,  they  had  no  idea  of  letting  us  recover  quietly 
in  our  rooms  from  the  effects  of  the  previous  night's 
supper,  when,  as  they  said,  they  were  to  lose  our  com- 
pany the  next  day.  They  therefore  came  off  to  the 
ship  in  a  body,  and  had  pretty  well  persuaded  some 
of  the  more  seasoned  of  the  mess  to  return  with  them 
according  to  promise,  when  the  cry  was  raised  on  deck 


WHALES    IN  THE    HARBOUR.  475 

that  a  school  of  whales  was  entering  the  harbour,  and 
that  the  whale-ships  were  all  lowering  their  boats  pre- 
paratory to  commencing  work.  There  were  some  seven 
of  these  ships,  all  Americans,  each  one  being  manned 
with  not  less  than  four  boats ;  hence  the  sport  promised 
to  be  amusing,  and  the  cry  of  '  whales  in  harbour !'  no 
sooner  reached  us  than  all  idea  of  leaving  for  the  shore 
at  once  took  wing. 

"  The  entire  party  now  rushed  up  from  below, — up, 
up, — some  into  the  rigging,  some  on  the  yards,  others 
into  the  tops, — every  one  seeking  an  elevation  from 
which  to  look  down  upon  the  coming  contest  between 
man  and  the  giant  of  the  deep, — between  mind  and 
instinct. 

"  It  was  curious  in  the  extreme  to  watch  the  wary  old 
bulls  and  cows  as  they  drove  the  young  calves  into  shoal 
water  and  there  left  them  to  feed,  while  they  themselves, 
from  the  fact  of  drawing  too  much  water,  were  forced  to 
remain  farther  out,  cruising  back  and  forth,  across  and 
about  the  entrance,  diving  under  ships,  lying  on  the  sur- 
face as  if  sunning  themselves,  motionless,  apparently 
asleep,  and  yet  sinking  suddenly,  like  a  lump  of  lead, 
dropping  j^^rpendieularly  away  from  the  sneaking  boats, 
just  as  one  of  them  would  get  close  enough  to  make  the 
harpooner  brace  himself  for  the  deadly  heave.  Of  calves 
I  suppose  there  were  a  dozen  or  more,  accompanied 
by  an  infinite  number  of  grampus,  amusing  themselves 
in  the  shoal  water;  and  there  were  probably  as  many  as 
fifteen  or  twenty  of  the  bulls  and  cows  '  backing  and 
filling'  in  different  parts  of  the  harbour,  each  of  the  former 
having   one — sometimes    two — boats  dogging  his  wake 


476  A    SUBMARINE    SOMERSET. 

or  cutting  across  his  course  with  silent,  cat-like  move- 
ment. 

"The  harbour  being  small,  the  water  smooth  and 
polished,  the  day  beautifully  bright,  and  our  positions 
quite  elevated,  we  could  follow  most  of  their  motions 
while  under  water  nearly  as  well  as  when  they  swam  on 
the  surface ;  and  the  manner  in  which  they  would  turn 
from  danger  was  really  astonishing.  In  their  doublings 
they  put  me  in  mind  of  the  fox.  One  old  gray-backed 
fellow  I  remember  in  particular,  who,  while  swimming 
leisurely  along  from  a  pursuing  boat,  suddenly  turned  a 
deep  somerset  without  disturbing  the  surface  of  the 
water  at  all,  and  a  minute  later  breached  some  three  or 
four  hundred  yards  directly  astern.  Two  boats — one  of 
which  had  been  sneaking  upon  him  from  either  bow — 
had  evidently  caused  this  retrograde  movement. 

"No  sooner  had  this  old  fellow's  huge  body  breached 
again  to  view,  than  the  three  boats,  who  seemed  to  be 
devoting  their  particular  attention  to  him  alone,  crept 
swiftly  back  toward  him  with  their  noiseless  paddles ; 
but,  while  yet  some  distance  off,  his  body,  which  had 
since  his  reappearance  floated  lightly  and  motionless  on 
the  surface,  seeming  suddenly  deprived  of  every  thing 
that  was  buoyant,  dropped  perpendicularly  out  of  sight, 
leaving  nothing  to  tell  of  his  previous  sunning  process 
save  a  few  curling  eddies.  As  a  round-shot  would  have 
sunk,  so  sank  he  from  the  eyes  of  his  pursuers,  and  when 
next  seen  was  pretty  well  in  with  the  calves  and  grampus, 
more  than  half  a  mile  from  his  former  position.  The 
boats,  however,  judging  with  singular  accuracy  as  to  his 
submarine  course,  had  followed  him  with  such  effect  as 


HOW  THEY  SUKPRISE  "OLD  GRAYBACK."      477 

to  be  witliiu  less  than  half  that  distance  of  him,  as  he 
blew  his  steam-like  spout  and  again  resumed  his  motion- 
less position  on  the  surface. 

"  In  the  mean  time,  the  other  fifteen  or  twenty  boats 
were  similarly  engaged,  and,  an  hour  or  more  having  now 
passed  without  any  change  in  the  programme,  we  began 
to  think  that  our  sport  might  not  come  off',  after  all,  when 
suddenly  old  Grayback,  who  had  been  cruising  under 
water  for  some  time,  lost  his  reckoning  and  rose  under 
the  very  bows  of  one  of  the  motionless  boats,  and,  before 
aware  of  his  dangerous  locality,  received  the  ready  har- 
poon into  his  unsuspecting  blubber. 

"  I  think  he  must  have  sprung  at  least  ten  feet  clear  of 
the  water,  and  for  more  than  a  second  his  huge  frame, 
bent  and  doubled  up  by  surprise  or  agony,  was  encircled 
by  air  only.  Then  he  came  down,  and  "  oh,  what  a 
splash  w^as  there,  my  countrymen  !"  It  reverberated  over 
the  whole  harbour,  and  raised  a  swell  over  which  the 
boat  rose  and  fell  as  in  a  sea-way. 

" '  Starn  all !'  It  was  the  clear,  nasal  voice  of  the  Down- 
east  boat-steerer,  which  came  to  us  across  the  water 
almost  as  soon  as  the  weapon  had  left  his  powerful 
grasp. 

"And  it  was  time  to  'starn  all;'  for,  though  the  light 
boat  sprang  like  a  thing  of  life  more  than  her  length 
from  the  effects  of  the  looked-for  leap,  yet  she  had  no- 
thing to  spare :  the  writhing  monster  struck  the  water 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  bow,  and  then  turned  for  deep 
water  with  fearful  velocity.  At  first  they  'give  him 
line,'  then  slowly  'check  him,'  and,  finally,  boil  along  in 
his  foaming  wake,  as  the  powerful  sweep  of  the  trailing 


478         A    TIME    FOR   SHARP    EYES   AND    READY  ACTION. 

steering-oar  turns  the  boat  as  upon  a  pivot  and  guides 
her  after  the  tautened  line. 

"  I  do  not  think  that  her  speed  at  the  first  jump  could 
have  been  less  than  thirty  miles  the  hour ;  and  only  think 
of  a  boat  being  dragged  at  that  rate  through  the  water ! 
At  times,  I  really  believed  that  she  was  below  the  level 
of  the  sea ;  but  so  great  was  her  speed,  that  the  water, 
instead  of  pouring  into  her,  was  thrown  from  her  gun- 
wales in  curling  masses,  that  left  a  wake  very  much  like 
that  of  a  3'oung  steamboat. 

"  ]S'o  sooner  was  boat  No.  1  thus  fastened  to  old  Gray- 
back,  than  INos.  2,  3,  and  4,  all  belonging  to  the  same 
ship,  dropped  the  silent  paddles  and,  with  their  long, 
sweeping  oars,  took  part  in  the  exciting  race ;  while  the 
remaining  whales,  as  if  conscious  of  the  mishap  which 
had  overtaken  their  imprudent  leader,  rushed  about  in 
wild  disorder,  and,  before  recovering  from  their  fright, 
another  of  their  number  had  leaped  bodily  into  the  air, 
descended  with  a  splash,  and  rushed  wildly  out  to  sea, 
with  the  barbed  weapon  in  his  side  and  the  buoyant  boat 
thundering  along  in  his  rear. 

"There  were  now  two  boats  fastened  to  their  flying 
prizes,  while  some  half-dozen  others  were  pulling  vigor- 
ously in  various  directions,  intent  upon  cutting  off  one  or 
the  other  of  the  monsters — should  the  opportunity  present 
itself  in  one  of  their  many  turnings — and  fastening  a 
second  harpoon  in  case  the  first  should  draw  out.  Old 
Grayback,  however,  seemed  fully  aware  of  the  game  that 
vras  being  played,  and  evinced  a  decided  indisposition 
to  being  '  caught  foul'  a  second  time.  He  was  now 
apparently   cooled   down   by   his    '  two-forty'   pace,  and 


'  'I       1   r 


; 


:     1^  ■  rr'ijillllilliili  II 1 11  ;i'! 


!      !ii 


mm 


.i,iil!| 


I 


iiiililllll!!  I  i 


'If  ;         I.  ,1  . 


if'! 


1 1  I 


PLAYFULNESS    OF    "OLD    GRAYBACK."  479 

seemed  determined  to  limit  his  exertions  to  keeping  out 
of  harm's  way, — now  and  then  indulging  in  unpleasantly- 
sudden  dives  or  dashes  along  the  surface,  as  if  merely  to 
let  them  know  that  he  was  still  'about.'  After  running 
some  miles  to  seaward,  the  old  fellow  had  turned  and 
retraced  his  track  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  spot  where 
he  had  been  struck,  and  we  thus  had  a  fair  view  of  his 
motions  most  of  the  time ;  but  the  other  whale  had 
dragged  his  boat  with  lightning  speed  around  the  north 
point  of  the  harboui;  and  disappeared  entirely. 

"  Upon  old  Grayback,  therefore,  we  fixed  our  admiring 
eyes,  and  some  adventurous  spirits  even  advocated  the 
idea  of  our  joining  in  the  fun  with  our  own  boats ;  but, 
as  the  majority  of  us  still  had  in  distant  contemplation  a 
mundane  meeting  with  absent  friends,  the  proposition  to 
'  take  a  boat  and  pull  ourselves'  (the  crew  having  been 
worked  hard  the  last  few  days)  met  with  little  encourage- 
ment. '  Every  man  to  his  own  trade,'  I  thought  to  my- 
self, as  old  Grayback  made  one  of  his  playful  dashes, 
turned  suddenly  at  right  angles  to  his  former  course,  and 
came  toward  us  with  frightful  velocity.  '  Every  man  to 
his  own  trade.  "What  would  become  of  that  boat  now 
if  I  had  the  management  of  her?  I  think  I'd  much 
rather  be  seated  on  this  topsail-yard  with  my  spy-glass  to 
amuse  myself  with.' 

"It  was  a  fearful  jerk — a  bold  outlay  of  his  husbanded 
strength — which  the  leviathan  made  in  that  sudden  dash 
and  short  turn  ;  but  the  quick  eye  of  the  boat-steerer  had 
caught  the  movement,  and  with  one  mighty  sweep  of  his 
trailing  oar  turned  the  boat  as  on  a  pivot,  just  as  she  felt 
the  tautening  of  the  line.    Onward  she  surged  in  his  boil- 


480  THE   SALLY   ANN   IS    DISAPPOINTED. 

ing  wake.  Onward,  onward.  A  breaking  reef  crossed 
their  mad  career;  but  old  Grayback  had  evidently  again 
lost  bis  reckoning,  for  he  rushed  steadily  upon  it.  An- 
other second  or  two,  and  he  must  either  turn  at  right 
angles  or  butt  out  his  brains.  He  chose  the  former,  as 
any  sensible  whale  must  have  done,  and  seemed  to  fly 
with  renewed  vek)city.  Skirting  the  reef  with  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  his  huge  head  exposed,  he  passed  so 
close  to  one  of  the  ambushed  boats  as  to  furnish  the  long- 
looked-for  chance  of  fastening  a  second  iron.  But  the 
harpoon,  though  well  directed,  and  urged  by  the  power 
of  a  strong  arm  nerved  by  the  moment's  excitement, 
glanced  harmlessly  from  his  polished  side,  and  was 
slowly  hauled  in  by  the  disappointed  whaler.  The  un- 
expected attack,  however,  seemed  to  lash  him  to  perfect 
madness.  Bounding  off  violently  from  the  reef,  he  tore 
the  first  harpoon  from  its  deep-seated  hold,  renewing 
his  furious  flight,  which  bade  defiance  to  further  pursuit, 
and  leaving  behind  him  a  turbid  wake  of  bloody  foam. 
Old  Grayback  had  saved  his  blubber,  and  the  Sally 
Ann,  of  New  Bedford,  was  minus  her  two  hundred 
barrels. 

"  '  Come  on !  come  on  !'  said  the  governor's  aide,  who 
was  by  me  on  the  topsail-yard.  '  The  whale  has  got 
away ;  he  has  doubtless  gone  for  his  lunch  after  so  much 
exercise  :  let  us  follow  his  example.' 

"So  we  went  down  to  the  deck,  and  another  half-hour 
saw  us  entering  the  spacious  mansion  of  the  governor, 
and  four  hours  after  that  we  were  again  seated  in  the 
'  second  floor-parlour,'  and  two  or  three  hours  later  we 
were  shaking  hands  for  the  last  time." 


ALL  THAT  CAN  BE  SAID  OF  AYAN.         481 

How  singularly  mournful  such  partings  often  are ! — 
such  abrupt  terminations  of  unexpected  but  pleasant 
associations  of  a  few  days !  Our  jovial  host  lost  his 
laughing  roughness  as  he  emptied  the  ashes  from  his  last 
pipe,  and  his  voice  softened,  and  I  thought  his  eye  was 
more  brilliant  than  usual,  as  he  bade  us  farewell, — we  who 
had  broken  in  upon  their  silent  solitude  and  helped  them 
to  pass  so  many  pleasant  hours. 

"I'll  tell  you  what  it  is,"  he  said,  slowly,  as  he  passed 
from  one  to  the  other  with  outstretched  hands,  "  you  fel- 
lows don't  know  what  a  serious  thing  you  are  about  to  do. 
You  are  going  to  leave  us  here  to  our  solitude  just  as 
the  long  winter  is  coming  over  us.  You  are  going  to 
return  to  your  friends  and  homes  in  the  civilized  world, 
while  we  are  to  be  frozen  in  here  with  our  useless  bil- 
liard-table and  the  stores  we  bought  from  the  Leveret. 
Don't  you  think  that  furs  ought  to  sell  high  when  Chris- 
tian men  have  to  live  such  a  life  to  get  them  ?  I  wish 
they  were  twice  as  dear:  then  my  pay  would  be  double, 
and  I  should  only  have  to  stay  here  half  as  long." 

And  thus  we  parted,  and  the  next  morning's  sun  shone 
upon  the  "old  John"  as  she  steamed  slowly  away  from 
those  isolated  but  truly  hospitable  mansions  toward  the 
scene  of  future  work. 

After  all  that  has  been  said,  it  would  be  needless  to 
add  that  we  did  not  find  any  coal  at  Ayan.  And  now  for 
a  parting  word  in  regard  to  that  slightly-known  place.  I 
forgot  its  exact  position,  but  its  latitude  is  about  56°  N. 
and  longitude  138°  E.,  and  it  is  about  half-way  between  the 
larger  town  of  Okotsk  and  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor  River. 
It  contains  some  thirty  or  forty  scattering  houses,  a  Greek 

31 


482  THE   LAST   OF   GLORIOUS    "OLD   FRYBARK." 

church,  and  a  rough  specimen  of  a  ship-yard,  where  a 
small  steamer,  destined  for  the  navigation  of  the  Amoor 
River,  was  heing  built  previous  to  the  visit  of  the  Allies. 
It  is  inhabited  by  three  or  four  hundred  persons,  consist- 
ing of  Russians,  German-Russians,  Cossacks,  and  the 
Tongouse  Indians,  and  is  the  principal  depot  of  the  Rus- 
sian Fur  Company  in  those  regions.  It  is  frequently 
visited  by  whalers,  annually  by  a  ship  of  the  Company  to 
carry  the  more  ordinary  furs  to  Europe,  and  seldom  or 
never  by  any  other  vessels.  It  may  be  well  here  to  add 
that  the  more  costly  furs  are  packed  in  water-proof  bales 
and  sent  across  the  country  to  St.  Petersburg  in  the  same 
way  in  which  "  old  Frybark's"  white  sugar  and  caviare 
were  obtained.  And  now  I  have  done  with  Ayan  and — 
glorious  "  old  Frybark." 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

WE  VISIT  THE  TSCHANTAR  ISLANDS,  PARTAKE  LARGELY  OF  WILD  RHUBARB, 
AND  CAPTURE  ONE  OF  THE  INHABITANTS — AFTER  WHICH  WE  SAIL  FOR 
THB  AMOOR  RIVER,  WHERE  WE  FALL  IN  WITH  THE  BOATS  OF  THE  RUS- 
SIAN SQUADRON,  FAIL  TO  PASS  THROUGH  INTO  THE  GULF  OF  TARTARY, 
AND    FINALLY    RETURN   INTO    THE    OKOTStt    SEA. 

The  day  after  leaving  Ayan  we  sighted  the  Tschantar 
Islands,  and  toward  night  let  go  our  anchor  in  the  prin- 
cipal harbour  of  that  of  Fekilzoff.  This  was  the  only 
one  of  the  group  upon  which  we  landed ;  but,  upon 
steaming  around  the  others,  we  found  them  exhibiting 
the  same  general  appearances,  from  which  we  concluded 
that  "in  seeing  one  we  had  seen  all."  Their  central 
latitude  is  55°  K,  their  longitude  138°  30'  E. :  they  are 
covered  with  dense  forests  of  spruce  and  birch,  are  rather 
hilly  than  mountainous,  are  watered  by  clear  and 
numerous  streams,  and  yet  are  not  possessed  of  a  single 
human  inhabitant,  as  far  as  we  could  learn  from  our  own 
observation  and  from  conversing  with  whalers. 

In  fact,  animal  life  of  every  description  seemed  scarce, 
though  the  soil  is  remarkably  rich  and  vegetation  con- 
sequently luxuriant.  In  conversing  with  whaling-cap- 
tains in  regard  to  these  islands,  they  had  held  out  most 
startling  and  sport-promising  pictures  to  us.  One  of 
them  said,  for  instance,  that  he  had  been  anchored  in 
one  of  their  bays  in  company  with  two  hundred  other 
whale-ships,  and  that  black  bears  were  as  abundant  in 

483 


484  MARVELLOUS    RISE    AND    FALL   OF   TIDES. 

the  forests  as  one  could  desire.  A  boat's  crew  of  his,  he 
said,  had  once  attacked  and  wounded  one  of  them,  when 
he  gave  chase,  and  not  only  ran  them  into  their  boat 
but  swam  out  into  the  bay  after  them.  They  then  turned 
on  him  with  their  lances  and  harpoons,  and  made  short 
work  of  him. 

Another  captain  told  us  the  most  marvellous  yarns 
about  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  along  these  shores, 
and  of  the  shoals  of  whale  which  had  frequented  these 
bays  "last  season."  He  said — and  others  confirmed  the 
story — that  he  had  struck  whales  in  six  fathoms  water, 
and  dug  clams  out  of  the  sand  directly  under  his  boat 
two  hours  later.  And  yet  we  passed  three  or  four  days 
in  those  waters,  and  did  not  see  a  clam,  a  whale,  a  bear, 
or  any  thing  remarkable  in  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides. 
The  currents  that  ran  through  the  passages  that  separate 
the  islands,  however,  were  of  astonishing  rapidity,  ren- 
dering the  navigation  full  of  peril  even  for  a  steamer. 

When  we  let  go  our  anchor  in  the  Bay  of  Fekilzoff,  we 
found  several  whalers  already  there,  busily  engaged  in 
the  work  of  wooding  and  watering  ship.  They  com- 
plained greatly  of  the  scarcity  of  whales,  and  talked  of 
going  to  the  northward  in  search  of  them.  One  by  one 
they  left  us  until  we  were  alone  in  the  silent  bay. 

Upon  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  two  boats  had  been 
detailed  to  sound  out  the  harbour,  while  the  others  were 
employed  in  wooding  and  watering  ship.  This  left  our 
indefatigable  Mmrod,  the  doctor,  at  liberty,  and  he  was 
soon  upon  the  hill-sides  with  his  rifle ;  but,  after  walking 
all  day  and  finding  nothing  but  two  squirrels,  he  returned 
on  board  in  great  disgust  and  with  a  very  poor  idea  of 


THE   DOCTOR  "RUNS    DOWN"    A    NATIVE.  485 

the  veracity  of  the  whaler  who  told  us  that  "  black  bears 
were  as  abuudant  in  the  forests  as  one  could  desire."  I 
must  not  forget  to  add  that  both  bust-proof  and  his  mas- 
ter accompanied  him  upon  this  excursion,  and  shared  in 
his  bitter  disappointment.  These  squirrels  were  of  totally- 
different  species,  though  they  were  both  amply  provided 
with  fur  against  the  excessive  cold  of  their  winters.  One 
of  them  was  about  as  large  as  an  ordinary  gray  squirrel, 
of  a  dark  grayish  colour,  and  with  a  jet-black  and  flowing 
tail,  while  the  other  was  much  smaller,  of  claret  hue, 
with  narrow  brown  stripes  running  down  his  back,  and 
possessed  of  very  little  tail  at  all.  The  former  fell  a  vic- 
tim to  bust-proof,  and  the  latter  was  run  down  by  the 
doctor  and  caught  alive.  These  animals  seemed  to  live 
on  a  little  nut  which  we  found  in  great  quantities  in  the 
burr  of  the  shaft-like  spruce  pine,  whose  growth  was  the 
densest  I  had  ever  witnessed  in  forest-trees.  "We  subse- 
quently bought  whole  baskets  of  these  nuts  from  the  na- 
tives at  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor,  partly  as  food  for  the 
doctor's  pet,  and  partly  because  they  were  very  fine  for 
us  to  nibble  at  ourselves.  They  were  about  the  size  of 
a  buckshot,  of  irregular  formation,  and  tasted  very  much 
like  the  meat  of  the  hickory-nut.  Their  covering  was  more 
of  a  skin  than  a  shell,  and  might  be  swallowed  without  in- 
convenience. The  trees  on  which  this  nut  grows  were,  as 
I  have  already  remarked,  very  abundant  and  straight ;  and, 
as  we  expected  soon  to  give  out  of  coal  and  have  to  carry 
sail  quite  heavy  in  consequence,  we  cut  and  rafted  a  num- 
ber of  them  to  be  worked  into  spars  in  case  of  necessity. 
A  hundred  thousand  ships  might  have  loaded  with  simi- 
lar timber  from  that  single  island.     The  second  evening 


48G     GENERAL   FORMATION   OF   THE   TSCHANTAR   ISLANDS. 

after  our  arrival,  tlie  wooding-party  returned  on  board, 
bringing  with  them  several  bundles  of  a  most  refreshingly- 
green-looking  vegetable,  which  they  said  a  whaler  had 
recommended  to  them  as  a  grand  substitute  for  spinach. 
It  proved  to  be  wild  rhubarb,  and  when  cooked  in  the 
form  of  greens  was  any  thing  but  unacceptable.  It  had 
a  sharp,  acrid  taste,  truly;  but  then  the  doctor  spoke  very 
strongly  in  favour  of  that  particular  property  as  an  anti- 
scorbutic, and  one  or  two  trials  sufficed  to  reconcile  us  to 
the  taste.  We  soon  became  very  fond  of  it,  and,  before 
leaving  for  the  Amoor  Elver,  took  care  to  cut  a  good 
supply.  It  grew  in  great  abundance  along  the  sides  of 
the  hills,  and  has  for  many  years  been  known  to  scurvy- 
threatened  whalers. 

The  general  formation  of  these  islands  is  worthy  of  a 
passing  notice. 

Unlike  most  elevated  and  solitary  formations,  they 
present  no  indications  of  owing  their  origin  to  the  action 
of  subterraneous  convulsions.  You  find  no  bold  water 
around  their  shores,  neither  do  you  notice  the  cone-like 
peaks  which  generally  lift  themselves  over  a  volcanic 
region.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  connected  to  the  main- 
land by  quite  moderate  and  regular  soundings,  while 
banks,  and  reefs,  and  isolated  rocks,  render  the  naviga- 
tion any  thing  but  pleasant.  The  tide  also  washes  their 
shores  with  the  rare  velocity  of  from  five  to  seven  knots 
the  hour,  and  adds  its  perilous  uncertainty  to  the  lesser 
dangers.  Periodical  gales  of  destructive  violence  also 
devastate  their  lordly  forests  and  drive  the  sea  in  foam- 
ing surf  along  their  rocky  shores.  Then  comes  a  long 
and  cheerless  winter,  which  sinks  the  thermometer  more 


A  "rare  chance  for  an  enterprising  man."     487 

than  one  score  of  degrees  below  zero,  and  drives  animal 
life  into  its  burrowed  home  for  shelter  against  its  bound- 
less intensity. 

Wherever  we  landed,  or  while  sailing  along  their  silent 
shores,  the  whole  country  presented  the  appearance  of  a 
dense  canebrake-like  growth  of  spruce  pine,  extending 
from  the  sea  to  the  summit  of  the  highest  ranges,  and 
showing  us  at  a  single  glance  forest  upon  forest  of  the 
most  beautiful  spars  for  shipping.  Seldom  was  it  that 
we  saw  a  crooked  tree  there :  they  were  all  as  straight 
and  branchless  as  the  most  fastidious  spar-maker  could 
desire,  and  will  doubtless  be  duly  appreciated  when  their 
owner,  the  Czar,  sees  fit  to  call  into  requisition  their  vast 
resources. 

When  we  were  on  the  coast  of  China,  at  Hong-Kong 
and  Shanghae,  we  had  seen  such  spars  as  these  selling  at 
the  unheard-of  price  of  from  fifty  to  two  and  three  hun- 
dred dollars ;  and,  as  we  now  walked  between  their  lofty 
and  shaft-like  trunks,  we  could  not  help  thinking  how 
easy  a  fortune  might  be  made  by  some  enterprising 
Yankee,  with  an  old  timber-drover  and  a  dozen  or  more 
good  wood-cutters  at  his  command.  All  he  would  have 
to  do  would  be  to  cut  and  square  some  thousand  or  more 
of  them,  fill  up  his  ship  at  the  cost  of  time  and  labour 
only,  and  then  run  quietly  to  a  ready  market  at  either 
Hong-Kong,  Shanghae,  Manilla,  or  one  of  a  dozen  other 
ports.  In  the  language  of  modern  advertisements, 
"here  is  a  rare  chance  for  an  enterprising  man  to  make 
a  fortune." 

It  took  us  four  days  to  end  our  combined  work  of 
wooding,  watering,  and  surveying;  when  we  again  got 


488      don't  trust  too  much  to  their  accuracy. 

up  steam  and  anchor  and  continued  on  our  way  for  the 
mouth  of  the  Amoor,  through  a  storm  of  rain,  wind,  and 
drifting  fog-hanks  that  soon  rendered  our  navigation  so 
uncertain  and  dangerous  that  we  were  glad  to  gain  an 
anchorage  under  the  sheltering  heights  of  another  of  the 
group  until  the  return  of  clear  weather.  The  next  day 
it  had  improved  considerably,  and  we  again  got  under 
steam  and  ran  along  down  the  coast,  hoping  to  be  able 
to  pass  through  between  the  island  of  Sagalien  and  the 
mainland  into  the  Gulf  of  Tartary,  and,  following  the 
west  coast  of  Sagalien,  finally  get  out  into  the  Pacific 
through  the  Straits  of  La  Perouse  and  then  shape  our 
course  for  San  Francisco.  In  this,  however,  we  were 
destined  to  fail,  as  the  reader  will  see. 

While  at  Ayan  we  had  been  presented  by  "old  Fry- 
bark"  with  a  large  number  of  Russian  charts,  several  of 
which  related  to  the  mouth  of  this  river.  These  several 
charts  embodied  the  latest  surveys  of  that  region,  but 
were  given  to  us  by  Mr.  Freighburg  with  the  warning 
remark,  "Don't  trust  too  much  to  their  accuracy,  for  the 
channels  there  sounded  out  have  long  since  been  filled  in 
by  shifting  sand-banks,  and  even  we  have  to  trust  entirely 
to  pilots."  We  therefore  proceeded  with  our  usual  cau- 
tion, and,  while  thus  feeling  our  way  with  lead  and  look- 
out over  the  unknown  ground,  we  were  forced  to  anchor 
at  night  and  continue  with  returning  light  the  previous 
day's  work.  It  was  a  running  survey  that  we  were 
making  of  this  coast,  and  we  had  consequently  to  steam 
well  in  along  the  land  in  order  that  Hartman  might 
sketch  in  the  coast-line  as  we  proceeded.  We  found  the 
water  shoaling  perceptibly  as  we  neared  the  latitude  of 


THE  LAST  BOTTLE  OF  WINE.  489 

the  river,  and  were  finally  forced  to  run  along  in  as  little 
as  three  fathoms,  or  keep  so  far  out  to  sea  that  the  inden- 
tations of  the  land,  the  existence  of  rivers,  &c.  would  no 
longer  be  discoverable.  Of  course  we  chose  the  former 
course,  which,  though  entailing  considerable  risk,  still 
guaranteed  the  accuracy  of  our  future  charts,  which  w^as, 
after  all,  the  grand  object  of  the  Expedition. 

Running  along  in  this  way  upon  the  morning  after 
leaving  the  Tschantar  group,  we  sighted  a  sloop-rigged 
vessel  ahead,  and,  the  wind  being  quite  light,  soon  steamed 
up  to  her,  in  spite  of  her  evident  exertions  to  get  into 
shoal  water  beyond  our  reach.  A  boat  was  lowered, 
despatched  to  board  her,  and  shortly  returned  with  her 
commanding  officer,  who  came  on  board  in  high  glee 
upon  the  discovery  that  we  were  an  American  and  not 
an  English  steamer.  She  proved  to  be  a  Russian  gun- 
boat that  had  run  the  gauntlet  of  the  Allied  fleet  at  Petro- 
polowski,  and  reached  in  safety  the  port  of  Petropskie, 
(off  which  we  had  anchored  the  previous  night,)  where 
said  commanding  officer  lived,  and  who  as  a  Government 
pilot  had  taken  charge  of  her,  and  was  now  working  her 
around  into  the  Amoor  to  turn  her  over  to  the  Russian 
admiral,  there  fortified  with  a  squadron  of  five  sail.  This 
old  gentleman  wore  a  tarnished  and  threadbare  uniform, 
looked  as  if  he  had  seen  much  hard  service,  and  spoke 
English  quite  fairly.  We  had  no  difficulty  in  compre- 
hending each  other,  as,  with  the  table  strewed  with  charts, 
cigars,  and  the  captain's  last  bottle  of  wine,  he  pointed 
out  the  numerous  errors  of  the  former,  and  gave  us  a 
vast  amount  of  general  information  that  it  would  have 
taken  us  months  of  hard  work  to  collect.    Eor  the  benefit 


490   SOMETHING  ABOUT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  AMOOR. 

of  persons  interested  in  the  present  movement  of  the 
Czar  as  regards  colonizing  the  banks  of  that  river,  I  may 
as  well  introduce  here  a  short  synopsis  of  what  we  learned 
from  the  Government  pilot,  as  well  as  a  few  remarks 
in  regard  to  our  own  experience,  which,  while  proving 
some  of  his  information  to  be  correct,  encourages  us  at 
the  same  time  to  put  confidence  in  other  of  his  assertions 
the  truth  of  which  we  never  found  ourselves  in  a  position 
to  test. 

He  told  us,  then,  as  he  smacked  his  lips  over  the  long- 
untasted  wine  and  puffed  away  at  the  equally-rare  Ma- 
nilla cheroot,  that  charts  would  never  be  of  much  value 
as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Amoor  was  concerned.  Even 
he  himself,  he  said,  who  had  acted  the  part  of  a  pilot  in 
those  waters  for  several  years,  had  to  trust  to  his  lead  and 
a  good  look-out,  the  sandbanks  were  so  extensive  and  so 
liable  to  constant  changes.  There  were  two  passages,  he 
continued,  but  it  was  hard  to  choose  between  them, — the 
northern  one  (where  we  now  were)  being  a  bad  lee  shore 
in  case  of  a  northeast  gale,  besides  having  very  little 
water,  while  the  southern,  though  carrying  twelve  fa- 
thoms over  what  had  long  been  regarded  as  an  isthmus 
connecting  the  island  of  Sagalien  with  the  mainland, 
soon  led  to  patches  of  banks  and  shoals  over  and 
through  which  only  ten  feet  could  be  carried,  and  that 
with  the  greatest  difficulty.  He  gave  us  a  full  descrip- 
tion of  the  manner  in  which  the  Russian  squadron  had 
escaped  the  Allies  at  Castrie's  Bay  and  passed  through 
this  passage ;  and  it  seems  that  upon  arriving  at  these 
banks  and  shoals  they  had  to  throw  overboard  their  guns, 
&c.,  put  casks  under  their  larger  vessels,  and  were  even 


SLIM    RATIONS.  491 

then  several  weeks  in  working  themselves  into  the  river, 
80  often  was  their  progress  checked  by  shoal  water. 
They  subsequently  recovered  their  guns  by  means  of 
their  boats,  and  were  then  well  fortified  in  anticipation  of 
a  visit  from  the  enemy. 

On  the  whole,  he  rather  seemed  to  think  that  the 
southern  passage  was  the  best;  "for,"  said  he,  "even  if 
ships  cannot  enter  the  river  they  may  anchor  off  its 
mouth,  and  discharge  and  receive  cargo  by  means  of  flat- 
bottomed  boats  without  such  great  exposure  to  northeast 
gales.  Then  they  pass  down  the  Gulf  of  Tartary  to  the 
Straits  of  La  Perouse,  and  are  soon  in  the  Pacific."  The 
old  fellow  was  evidently  trying  to  set  things  in  the  best 
light,  doubtless  thinking  that  the  war  would  last  for  years, 
and  that,  if  we  spoke  lightly  of  the  difficulties  of  landing 
cargo  when  we  arrived  at  San  Francisco,  ships  wolild  be 
more  likely  to  bring  them  stores.  And  this  reception  of 
supplies  from  California  was  their  only  hope,  he  told  us, 
as  long  as  the  war  lasted,  as  the  resources  of  the  country 
around  them  consisted  almost  entirely  of  berries,  fish,  the 
flesh  of  several  wild  animals,  and  a  few  roots.  Though 
the  soil  was  fine,  they  had  not  had  time  to  plant  any 
vegetables,  he  said,  though  they  hoped  to  have  some 
California  potatoes  in  the  ground  next  spring,  until 
which  time  they  must  be  content  with  roots  instead. 

After  getting  through  with  the  charts  and  wine,  we 
went  on  deck,  and  the  captain,  pointing  to  a  vessel  appa- 
rently at  anchor  under  the  dimly-seen  shore  of  Sagalien, 
asked  him  if  he  knew  what  she  was,  &c. ;  but  he  had  been 
at  Petropskie  so  long,  he  said,  that  he  could  not  tell  any 
thing  about  her.    She  had  arrived  since  he  left  the  settle- 


492  THE    AMERICAN    BARK    PALMETTO. 

ment  on  the  Amoor,  and  was  probably  an  American 
bark  that  had  been  long  looked  for  with  supplies  from 
San  Francisco. 

"  How  many  fathoms  can  we  carry  in  a  straight  line 
from  here  to  where  she  is  anchored?"  continued  the  cap- 
tain. 

"You  may  steer  straight  for  her  and  have  three  fa- 
thoms until  within  a  mile  of  her,  when  you  will  find  the 
water  shoaling ;  and  you  must  then  keep  to  the  southward 

until  she  bears ,  when  you  may  steer  again  for  her. 

You  will  find  her  anchored  in  about  three  fathoms  water, 
though  you  will  have  to  pass  over  as  little  as  'a  half  two.' 
She  has  got  the  best  berth  for  riding  out  a  northeast  gale ; 
and  you  had  better  anchor  near  her,  as  there  is  a  bank 
to  seaward  that  will  break  the  sea  and  give  you  a  com- 
paratively quiet  time." 

We  thanked  the  old  fellow  for  his  information,  and 
oftered  to  tow  him  that  far  on  his  route;  but  he  had 
the  modesty  to  decline,  and  we  subsequently  had  cause 
to  admire  his  foresight,  for  the  tide  ran  so  strong  as  we 
struck  out  into  the  stream  that  the  "old  John"  had  as 
much  as  she  could  do  to  drag  herself  through  it.  "We 
were  determined  to  make  him  some  return  for  his  kind- 
ness, however,  and  so  stuffed  his  hat  and  pockets  full  of 
cheroots  and  sardines  as  he  went  over  the  side. 

•a 

It  took  us  several  hours'  hard  steaming  to  reach  the 
stranger,  and  there  is  no  telling  how  much  longer  we 
might  have  been  had  not  the  flood-tide  set  in  and  given 
us  a  lift.  The  sun  was  just  dropping  behind  the  lowland 
to  the  westward  as  we  let  go  our  anchor  and  lowered  a 
boat  to  board  her.      She   proved  to  be   the  American 


"yes!  that'll  do  very  well!"  493 

bark  Palmetto,  of  San  Francisco,  witli  provisions  and 
stores  sent  by  the  Russian  consul  to  his  countrymen  in 
the  Amoor;  and  she  was  surrounded  by  a  perfect  swarm 
of  boats  from  the  Russian  men-of-war  in  that  river,  who, 
imagining  us  to  be  one  of  the  Allied  cruisers,  took  up  a 
hasty  flight,  with  both  sails  and  oars.  As  soon,  however, 
as  they  made  out  our  flag,  they  seemed  to  gain  courage, 
and,  calling  a  halt,  despatched  one  of  their  lighter  boats 
to  take  a  closer  look  at  us. 

This  fellow  pulled  around  us  several  times,  gradually 
lessening  the  diameter  of  his  circle  until  he  was  within 
hail,  when  the  captain  bellowed  at  him  through  a  trum- 
pet to  the  efiect  that  we  were  friends, — Americans, — and 
that  he  had  better  come  alongside. 

"Yes  !  That'll  do  very  well !"  sang  out  the  officer,  in  a 
doubting  voice,  at  which  there  was  a  burst  of  laughter 
fore  and  aft  our  decks,  which,  reaching  his  ears,  seemed 
to  satisfy  him  of  our  friendly  nature  much  better  than 
the  captain's  hail.  At  any  rate,  he  now  pulled  up  along- 
side of  us  and  came  on  board,  and,  after  carefully  looking 
round  the  decks  for  a  moment,  signalled  his  companions, 
who  at  once  followed  his  example.  The  party  was  com- 
manded by  the  captain  of  the  frigate  Aurora,  and  had 
been  sent  out  by  the  admiral  with  orders  to  get  the  Pal- 
metto into  the  river  if  possible;  but,  as  they  had  now 
been  at  it  some  six  weeks  without  making  any  headway, 
it  was  difficult  to  see  how  they  were  to  succeed.  In  the 
mean  time  the  northeast-gale  season  was  rapidly  ap- 
proaching, and  the  captain  of  the  Palmetto  was,  naturally 
enough,  getting  anxious  either  to  get  in  or  away.  "We 
remained  in  company  with  him  three  or  four  days,  during 


494  WE    RETURN    INTO    THE    OKOTSK. 

which  time  we  sounded  around  for  miles  in  search  of  a 
channel;  but,  finding  that  the  Russians  were  evidently 
opposed  to  our  proceedings  on  account  of  the  existing 
war,  the  captain  finally  ceased  work,  and  the  next  day 
we  left  them  and  were  well  clear  of  the  dangerous 
ground.  Before  leaving,  however,  the  Russians,  appa- 
rently ashamed  of  the  indisposition  they  had  evinced  to 
our  continuing  the  survey,  oflfered  to  pilot  us  through 
into  the  Gulf  of  Tartar}'  and  fill  our  bunkers  with  coal, 
if  we  would  take  the  Palmetto  in  tow ;  but,  as  they  were 
evidently  unable  to  find  water  enough  even  for  her,  we 
did  not  see  much  prospect  of  their  taking  our  ship, 
which  drew  a  foot  more,  through  in  safety.  Moreover, 
we  could  not  well  have  consented  had  there  been  oceans 
of  water,  for  the  Allies  would  have  had  just  cause  to 
complain  of  a  violation  of  our  neutrality.  So  we  left 
them  to  their  fate  and  steamed  back  into  the  Okotsk. 


CONCLUSION. 

WB  COMMENCE  OUR  HOMEWARD-BOUND  VOYAGE  AND  ABB  STOPPED  BY  A 
NORTHEAST  GALE,  AFTER  WHICH  A  WESTERLY  HURRICANE  COMES  TO  OUR 
ASSISTANCE  AND  FRIGHTENS  THE  "OLD  JOHN"  INTO  UNUSUAL  ACTIVITY 
— WE  ARE  ATTACKED  BY  THE  SCURVY,  ARRIVE  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO,  AND 
HEAR  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  NEWS — THE  LAST  OF  THE  "OLD  JOHN,"  AND 
AN    IDEA    OF    THE    RESULTS    OF   THE    CRUISE. 

It  was  now  the  15th  of  September,  1855 ;  and,  as  we 
steamed  back  into  the  Okotsk  Sea,  we  rubbed  our  hands 
and  felt  as  only  men  can  feel  who  have  a  hard  cruise  in 
their  rear  and  the  sight  of  their  native  land  and  the  joys 
of  home  in  their  front.  Our  work  was  over,  and  we  were  at 
length  bound  for  the  longed-for  haven  of  San  Francisco. 
We  had  been  a  year  without  even  letters  from  our  rela- 
tives,— wanderers  along  the  shores  of  strange  and 
unfrequented  lands. 

We  had  accomplished  a  vast  deal  of  work  during  this 
time, — particularly  toward  the  latter  part  of  it.  Bad 
charts  had  been  corrected  without  number,  the  data  for 
new  ones  obtained,  and  our  continuous  line  of  deep-sea 
and  other  soundings  followed  us  from  ocean  to  ocean 
like  the  endless  trail  of  the  luminous  circle  whose  broad 
and  starry  breast  meets  the  upward  gaze  from  every 
longitude.  We  did  what  I  suppose  no  vessel  ever  did 
before  : — we  sounded  around  the  world. 

And  now,  as  we  were  commencing  our  homeward- 
bound  voyage,  with  something  over  a  month's  provision 
in  the   ship,  with  only  enough  wood  and  coal  in  the 

495 


496        ALL  HANDS  UP  ANCHOR  FOR  HOME  ! 

bunkers  to  last  us  some  ten  days,  and  with  our  worn-out 
sails  and  crippled  spars  to  take  us  the  rest  of  that  long 
and  weary  way,  M'e  looked  doubtingly  ahead  at  the  pros- 
pect of  adverse  gales,  and  trembled  over  the  miserable 
ship  in  which  we  felt  no  confidence.  We  had  at  least 
four  thousand  miles  to  accomplish :  we  had  to  work  our 
w^ay  through  the  Okotsk  Sea,  and  between  the  Kurile 
Islands  by  the  "fifty-passage,"  and  finally  to  cross  the 
expansive  breast  of  the  North  Pacific  to  San  Francisco 
during  the  stormiest  of  seasons.  We  allowed  forty  days 
to  do  all  of  this  in,  and  determined  to  steam  until  we 
had  entered  the  Pacific,  and  then  to  save  our  fuel  until 
within  a  few  hundred  miles  of  San  Francisco.  Thus  we 
had  to  depend  upon  our  sails  alone  to  accomplish  the 
intervening  distance  of  over  three  thousand  miles.  !N'ow, 
as  the  reader  already  knows  how  the  "  old  John"  was 
wont  to  acquit  herself  under  sail  alone,  he  will  readily 
see  that  we  should  have  starved  before  reaching  our  port, 
had  she  been  opposed  by  headwinds.  Fortunately,  such 
was  not  the  case:  our  "broken  reed"  was  again 
strengthened  by  Him  who  counts  the  hairs  of  our  heads 
and  notes  the  fall  of  the  smallest  sparrow. 

We  had  rounded  the  north  cape  of  the  island  of 
Sagalien,  and  were  stretching  across  that  portion  of  the 
Okotsk  for  the  "fifty-passage,"  when  we  were  met  by  a 
northeast  gale  which  caused  us  to  fear  for  the  safety  of 
the  Palmetto  and  to  congratulate  ourselves  upon  our  own 
absence  from  her  dangerous  anchorage.  This  gale  soon 
blew  by,  and  then  we  again  commenced  working  for  the 
passage.     This  we  reached  in  a  few  days,  but  were  un- 


ANOTHER   GAME    OF    "  BLINDMAN'S-BUFF."  497 

fortunately  encompassed  by  fogs  after  the  breaking  up 
of  the  gale,  so  that  one  stormy  evening  found  us  in 
pretty  much  the  same  dilemma  as  we  had  been  in  a  year 
back  while  running  out  of  the  Yellow  Sea :  we  apparently 
had  another  case  of  blindman's-buff"  ahead  of  us.  We 
could  not  well  avoid  running,  however,  for  a  westerly 
gale  was  evidently  brewing  astern,  and,  were  we  to  heave 
to,  we  would  certainly  drift  upon  the  Kuriles  as  a  lee  shore. 
Our  best  chance,  therefore,  was  to  continue  on  our  course 
while  we  still  had  a  fair  idea  of  our  position;  so  we 
crowded  on  all  sail  and  steam,  hoping  to  enter  the 
passage  before  night.  In  this  we  failed ;  but,  fortunately 
for  our  peace  of  mind  during  the  hours  of  darkness,  the 
fog  lifted  just  after  sunset  and  showed  us  high  land  on 
our  starboard  bow ;  then  it  shut  in  again,  night  came  on, 
and  we  were  more  blindfolded  than  ever.  Still,  we  had 
seen  enough.  The  passing  glimpse  of  a  well-marked 
peak  had  told  us  that  the  open  channel  was  ahead  of  us, 
and  beyond  that  the  open  ocean :  so  we  kept  steadily 
on  before  the  freshening  gale,  and  the  next  morning  at 
daylight  were  well  out  on  the  Pacific :  the  fog  was  all 
gone,  the  Kuriles  had  sunk  below  the  western  horizon, 
and  we  were  now  to  see  no  more  land  until  that  of  Cali- 
fornia should  rise  over  the  opposite  board. 

During  this  first  day  in  the  Pacific,  we  were  passed  by 
several  deeply-loaded  whalers  steering  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands ;  and,  toward  night,  the  fresh  westerly  breeze 
before  which  we  had  been  running  for  the  last  two  days 
had  worked  itself  into  quite  a  gale, — so  stormy,  in  fact, 
that  we  were  down  to  double-reefed  topsails  before  mid- 
night, and    the  next  morning  we  found  it  necessary  to 


498  HOW   A   DECK   BECOMES   A   SIEVE. 

reduce  sail  still  further.  The  following  night  it  had 
increased  to  a  storm,  and  the  day  after  that  found  us 
scudding  before  a  fearful  hurricane  under  a  close-reefed 
maintopsail  and  fore  storm-staysail.  This  lasted  a  week 
or  more,  and,  as  we  got  farther  and  farther  from  under 
the  lee  of  the  Kurile  Islands,  it  raised  a  heavy  rolling 
sea  which  threw  us  ahead  at  a  most  glorious  rate.  It 
was  the  "  old  John's"  forte, — this  thing  of  running  away 
from  a  gale, — for  she  was  so  long  that  there  was  not  the 
most  remote  danger  of  her  "broaching  to;"  and,  upon 
the  old  principle  of  accomplishing  a  thing  through  main 
strength  and  stupidity,  she  was  often  known  to  travel  at 
the  rate  of  twelve  knots  the  hour  while  thus  urged  bodily 
before  a  sea  and  gale. 

This  was  all  very  fine  for  the  first  day  or  two ;  but,  as 
the  hurricane  approached  its  climax,  the  seas,  which  had 
hitherto  only  roared  under  our  flying  stern  or  occasion- 
ally boarded  us  over  either  waist,  began  to  tumble  in 
over  the  tafiVail  and  warn  us  of  the  necessity  of  batten- 
ing down  the  hatches.  The  old  ship  herself,  too,  began 
to  complain  badly  about  that  time.  The  furious  rate  at 
which  she  was  being  driven  ahead,  combined  with  the 
violent  spells  of  rolling  which  she  indulged  in  about 
every  five  minutes,  and  the  jarring  power  exerted  by 
the  propeller  on  account  of  the  unusual  rate  at  which 
the  ship's  speed  caused  it  to  revolve,  made  her  decks 
open  so  much  that  we  might  as  well  have  had  an  ob- 
long sieve  overhead.  The  water  came  through  them 
into  our  apartments  in  such  quantities  as  to  saturate  our 
beds,  ruin  our  books,  and  keep  the  lower  deck  constant!} 
afloat. 


"  OLD    bust-proof"    IN    TROUBLE.  499 

"Old  bust-proof"  was  particularly  unfortunate.  His 
master  had  given  him  a  good  oiling,  stowed  him  away 
securely  overhead,  and  then  left  him  to  sleep  quietly 
through  the  passage.  Alas  for  human  forethought !  his 
double  muzzle  was  elevated  higher  than  the  breech : 
water  will  run  down  hill,  and  the  consequence  may  well 
be  imagined :  upon  our  arrival  at  San  Francisco  he  was 
found  half  full, — irreparably  ruined.  We  looked  at  him 
and  sighed :  we  feared  he  would  lose  all  right  and  title 
to  his  redoubtable  name  at  the  very  next  discharge.  His 
ultimate  fate  is  shrouded  in  impenetrable  mystery. 

I  don't  think  any  of  the  mess  will  ever  forget  that 
long,  wet,  dreary  week.  I  feel  it  now  in  the  shape  of  a 
passing  rheumatic  pain.  It  was  "  feai/u^,"  as  Hartman 
expressed  it,  when  we  one  morning  ate  our  breakfast 
(luke-warm  tea,  cold  bread,  and  fried  pork)  with  high 
india-rubber  boots  on  to  keep  our  feet  dry.  At  the  end 
of  the  third  day,  just  as  the  hurricane  was  about  at  its 
height,  the  captain  started  the  idea  of  lying  to  and  allow- 
ing it  to  "blow  by."  He  entertained  the  very  natural 
fear  that  we  should  run  into  the  centre  of  the  storm  if 
we  continued  before  it  any  longer,  in  which  case  we 
should  certainly  have  foundered  with  the  sea  that  was 
then  running.  He  and  the  first  lieutenant  diftered,  how- 
ever, as  to  the  nature  of  the  tempest,  and  it  was  fortu- 
nately determined  to  continue  scudding.  I  say  "  fortu- 
nately," for,  in  the  end,  it  proved  to  be  the  safest  as  well 
as  most  comfortable  course,  and  we  moreover  continued 
logging  our  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  daily  toward 
San  Francisco,  which  was  in  itself  a  most  important  fea- 
ture, as  the  scurvy  was  by  that  time  making  great  inroads 


500  WE   ARRIVE   AT    SAN   FRANCISCO. 

into  our  numbers  and  adding  daily  to  the  crowded  sick- 
list. 

Finally,  we  ran  into  moderate  weather,  then  through 
an  ordinary  gale,  and,  in  the  end,  awoke  one  "  fearfuUi/ 
fine  mor-r-ning,"  according  to  Hartman,  to  find  our- 
selves within  a  few  hundred  miles  of  the  land.  We  then 
got  up  steam  to  help  our  sails,  and  were  so  fortunate  as 
to  enter  San  Francisco  during  the  night  of  the  19th  of 
October.  "We  found  the  Vincennes  and  Cooper  both  in 
ahead  of  us  by  a  week  or  more,  and  some  of  their  ofiicers 
boarded  us  that  same  night  to  offer  their  congratulations 
upon  our  safety  and  tell  us  the  news  of  the  last  ten 
months.  It  seemed  that  very  grave  fears  were  beginning 
to  be  entertained  for  the  welfare  of  our  miserable  old  tub. 

Who  can  tell  how  much  we  enjoyed  those  first  few 
days  in  a  civilized  port?  There  were  our  letters  of  the 
past  year  to  be  read,  the  news  of  the  world  to  be  talked 
over,  and  some  of  the  finest  beef,  mutton,  and  vegetables 
of  the  world  to  be  attacked :  the  very  recollection  of  it 
all  is  glorious.  Upon  comparing  notes  as  to  the  accom- 
plishments of  the  different  vessels  since  our  separation, 
it  appeared  that  we  had  each  done  more  than  the  other 
two  had  deemed  probable.  The  Vincennes  had  touched  at 
Petropolowski,  skirted  the  shore  of  Asia  up  to  Behring's 
Straits,  and  there  left  Lieutenant  Brooke,  Mr.  Kern,  and 
a  boat's  crew,  to  make  astronomical  observations,  while 
she  herself  pushed  on  into  the  Arctic  and  obtained  a 
higher  latitude  in  a  northwesterly  direction  than  any  pre- 
vious navigator.  Finally,  she  was  arrested  by  vast  masses 
of  ice,  which,  combined  with  the  wide-spread  existence 
of  scurvy  among  her  crew,  forced  her  to  return  to  the 


A    PART    OF   THE   VINCENNES'S   WORK.  501 

southward,  after  having  found  blue  water  where  a  pre- 
vious English  explorer  had  located  high  land.  She  had 
also  made  many  other  valuable  discoveries,  and  collected 
material  for  the  construction  of  charts  the  want  of  which 
had  been  severely  felt  by  whalers  for  the  last  few  years. 
Returning  through  Behring's  Straits,  she  picked  up  the 
astronomical  party,  and  continued  her  line  of  deep-sea 
soundings  to  San  Francisco,  where  she  arrived  shortly 
before  us,  with  half  of  her  crew  disabled  from  scurvy.  I 
quote  the  following  extract  in  regard  to  her  cruise  from 
our  late  summary  to  Congress  showing  what  work  we 
had  accomplished,  and  asking  that  we  be  compensated 
for  the  unusual  service,  as  was  the  similar  expedition 
which  sailed  under  "Wilkes  some  eighteen  years  since  : — 

"  The  Vincenues  passed  up  along  the  coast  of  Asia, 
(after  leaving  us  at  Ha-ko-da-di,)  determining  prominent 
points  and  headlands.  She  then  entered  Behring's  Straits, 
where,  on  the  peninsula  of  Yerguine  on  the  Asiatic  coast, 
among  the  warlike  and  barbarous  TschiiktcMs,  she  left  a 
party  of  ten  persons  for  the  purpose  of  making  astrono- 
mical, magnetic,  and  other  observations,  and  to  complete 
the  survey  of  the  Straits  of  Seniavine,  and  to  investigate 
the  flora  and  fauna  of  that  country.  On  leaving  that 
place  for  the  ISTorth,  the  Vincennes  had  on  board  but 
three  month's  wood  and  provisions. 

"To  accomplish  the  survey  in  the  limited  period  during 
which  the  Arctic  is  open,  it  was  necessary  to  carry  all  the 
sail  the  ship  would  bear,  through  fog  and  mist,  thus  in- 
curring the  danger  of  wreck  on  shoals,  bergs,  or  rocks, 
(for  the  Arctic  is  not  deep.)  She  visited  Herald  Island^ 
and  sailed  over  the  position  assigned  land  claimed  to 


502  HARDSHIPS  AND  EXPENSE. 

have  been  discovered  by  H.  M.  ship  Herald.  She  reached 
a  higher  point  of  latitude  (72°  05')  than  was  ever  before 
attained  north  of  Eastern  Asia,  and  disproved  also  the 
existence  of  WrangeU's  land  in  the  position  assigned  it. 

"All  that  portion  of  the  Arctic  available  for  whaling- 
purposes  was  carefully  explored  and  sounded.  At  this 
time,  in  consequence  of  the  want  of  provisions  and  of 
exposure,  the  scurvy  appeared,  and  the  major  portion  of 
crew  and  officers  was  attacked  by  it.  Returning  toward 
the  straits,  an  obstinate  east  wind  was  encountered,  and 
for  many  days  it  was  doubtful  whether  the  ship  would 
make  good  her  escape  from  the  Arctic  before  the  rapidly- 
gathering  ice  would  imprison  her, — an  event  certain  to 
result  in  the  destruction  of  all  concerned. 

"Embarking  the  shore-party,  with  the  valuable  results 
of  their  labours,  she  sailed  for  San  Francisco,  where  she 
arrived  after  a  tempestuous  passage,  and  was  joined  by 
the  Hancock  and  Cooper,  bringing  the  results  of  their 
extensive  surveys.  Having  communicated  with  the  De- 
partment, the  Hancock  and  Cooper  were  transferred  to 
the  navy-yard,  and  the  Vinceunes  sailed  alone,  continu- 
ing the  work  of  survey  on  the  route  home,  where  she 
arrived  in  July,  1856,  from  Otaheite,  having  made  the 
quickest  passage  on  record. 

"  In  the  execution  of  these  various  works,  the  officers 
and  men  have  been  separated  from  the  civilized  world 
for  periods  of  ten  months  at  a  time ;  they  have  been  ex- 
posed to  great  hardships  and  dangers  not  inferior  to  those 
of  war.  Many  of  them  have  been  permanently  injured 
by  exposure,  and  all  have  been  impoverished,  for  the 
ports  at  which  they  were  obliged  to  procure  supplies  for 


A  TOUCHING  (?)  APPEAL  TO  "THE  POWERS  THAT  BE."    503 

their  long  voyages  were  of  the  most  expensive  charac- 
ter,— the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Sydney,  in  Australia, 
Hong-Kong,  and  San  Francisco. 

"  With  a  reduced  complement  of  officers,  the  labour  of 
surveying  has  been  performed,  in  addition  to  all  the  duties 
of  actual  service  at  sea,  in  regions  of  the  most  tem- 
pestuous character." 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  they  had  been  less  fortunate 
even  than  we  of  the  "old  John,"  as  far  as  fresh  provi- 
sions and  recreation  were  concerned ;  for,  while  we  had 
met  with  beef,  milk,  berries,  fish,  and  turnips  in  the  Bay 
of  Taousk,  with  beef,  recreation,  and  flour  at  Ayan,  and 
with  spinach  in  the  shape  of  wild  rhubarb  at  the  Tschan- 
tar  Islands,  they  had  been  forced  to  depend  solely  upon 
the  Government-ration  of  salt  beef  and  pork,  and  bend 
their  constant  energies  to  severe  and  dangerous  labour, 
&c.  They  were  still  rubbing  their  hands  and  talking  of 
the  end  of  work  and  of  the  fine  California  potatoes  when 
we  arrived. 

And  now,  reader,  if  you  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  be 
a  member  of  Congress,  I  take  the  liberty  of  asking  you 
to  think  a  moment  over  these  last  few  pages,  and  see  if 
you  cannot  reconcile  it  with  your  ideas  of  equity  to  vote 
for  a  bill  which  is  now  before  "your  honourable  bodies" 
for  the  relief  of  the  officers  and  men  of  the  North  Pacific 
Surveying  and  Exploring  Expedition ;  and,  if  you  decide 
against  us,  I  can  only  hope  that,  if  you  ever  find  yourself 
on  the  sea,  it  may  be  in  just  such  an  old  coffin  as  the 
everlasting  "old  John."     And  now  for  the  little  Cooper. 

"With  this  vessel,  things  seemed  to  have  gone  some 
what  better:    they  found   an   abundance   of  sweet  po- 


504  IMMINENT   DANGER   OF   THE   COOPER. 

tatoes  at  the  Aleutian  Islands,  while  surveying  their 
rugged  shores,  and  began  to  think  they  were  going  to 
have  quite  a  fine  time,  when  one  day  they  were  en- 
countered by  a  severe  gale  which  came  very  near  casting 
them  on  shore.  They  had  anchored  before  its  com- 
mencement, and  now  let  go  a  second  anchor;  but  she 
drasa-ed  them  both  with  their  chains  veered  out  to  the 
bitter  ends, — the  sea  was  so  very  heavy  that  passed  them 
and  broke  upon  the  black-looking  rocks  not  more  than 
twenty  yards  astern :  tliey  were  dragging  upon  a  lee  shore. 
The  crew  became  very  much  alarmed,  but  were  calmed 
by  the  admirable  firmness  of  their  officers,  (Lieutenant- 
Commanding  Gibson  and  Lieutenant  Kennon,)  and,  just 
as  all  hope  was  about  leaving  them,  they  were  rejoiced  to 
find  that  the  schooner  had  "  brought  up."  One  of  the 
anchors,  while  dragging  along  the  bottom,  had  caught 
under  a  rock  and  arrested  them  upon  the  very  verge  of 
destruction.     Their  reed  also  had  been  strengthened. 

There  were  three  pieces  of  news  which  reached  us 
that  first  night,  any  one  of  which  would  have  been  suffi- 
cient to  put  any  disease  but  scurvy  to  an  ignominous 
flight.  In  the  first  place,  our  friends,  as  a  general  thing, 
were  well.  Secondly,  a  naval  retiring  board  had  been 
ordered  by  Congress,  had  already  acted,  and  we  were 
now  "  commissioned"  instead  of  "  warrant"  officers.  And, 
lastly,  the  "old  John,"  whose  reputation  had  at  length 
worked  its  way  through  the  walls  of  the  I^avy  Depai-t- 
ment, — ^Hhe  old  John''  was  ordered  to  be  turned  over 
to  the  navy-yard,  and  such  of  her  officers  as  were  not 
wanted  to  fill  vacancies  on  board  the  Vincennes  and 
Cooper  were  to  be  ordered  home  over  the  Isthmus.     I 


BOGUS  PROMOTIONS  AND  BOGUS  PAY.        505 

eay  all  of  this  was  great  news ;  but  then  it  was  all  dark- 
ened by  some  unpleasant  drawback.  Our  friends  were 
mostly  well,  but  many  had  been  confined  to  the  bed  of 
sickness.  "We  had  all  been  promoted,  but  it  was  to  bogus 
elevations  and  to  bogus  pay.  Our  professional  prospects, 
as  far  as  pay  and  subsistence  -were  concerned,  had  actu- 
ally been  changed  for  the  worse.  And  this  assertion  I 
am  prepared  to  prove  in  the  cases  of  at  least  two  bogus 
promotions  out  of  three,  though  it  is  the  prevailing 
opinion  that  the  entire  "  active  list"  of  the  navy  has  been 
immeasurably  benefited.  And,  lastly,  the  pleasure  of  our 
cruise,  being  at  an  end,  was  chilled  (to  one  at  least)  by 
the  very  unpleasant  reflection  that  he  had  to  pay  his  own 
expenses  home. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival,  we  all  went  up  to  the 
navy-yard  at  Mare  Island,  when  our  crew  were  dis- 
charged or  transferred  to  the  Vincennes  and  Cooper, 
the  captain  and  first  lieutenant  ordered  to  the  Vin- 
cennes, the  rest  of  us  ordered  home,  and  the  old  tub 
herself  turned  over  to  the  yard,  with  the  charitable 
warning  that  "she  would  be  more  likely  to  sink  than 
Bwim  if  she  ever  went  to  sea  again."  Two  of  us  came 
home  by  way  of  Nicaragua,  the  others  via  Panama,  and 
both  parties  arrived  at  ISTew  York  within  a  few  days  of 
each  other.  "We  now  scattered  to  our  widely-spread 
homes, — north,  south,  east,  and  west, — and  after  the  first 
few  days  began  to  look  in  the  papers  for  any  stray  notices 
in  regard  to  the  movements  of  the  Vincennes  and  Cooper. 
One  day  I  picked  up  a  paper  that  was  both  amusing  and 
informing: — the  Cooper  had  also  been  turned  over  to  the 
yard,  the  Vincennes  was  ordered  to  New  York  via  Cape 


506  THE    LAST    OF    THE    "OLD    JOHN." 

Horn,  and  the  poor  "old  John"  was  again  being  fitted 
for  sea.  She  was  to  be  sent  up  to  Puget  Sound  to  engage 
in  warlike  deeds  against  the  Indians,  and  men  w^ere 
found  to  go  in  her:  our  warning  had  evidently  been 
forgotten.  Two  weeks  later  I  took  up  another  paper: 
there  was  something  more  about  the  everlasting  old 
cofiiu :  she  had  become  restive  under  strange  hands  and 
amused  herself  by  blowing  out  the  bottom  of  one  of  her 
boilers.  Whether  they  succeeded  in  patching  her  up  and 
reaching  their  destination  in  safety  I  am  unable  to  say ; 
but  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  undertaking  was  abandoned, 
and  that  she  will  be  allowed  to  pass  the  remnant  of  her 
days  in  peace  and  quiet.  And  now,  as  I  am  about  to 
leave  her  to  that  doubtful  repose,  I  cannot  but  acknow- 
ledge a  feeling  of  gratitude  toward  the  shaky  old  bridge 
which  "carried  us  safely  over,"  in  spite  of  the  many 
anxious  moments  which  she  caused  us  during  that  rough 
and  stormy  cruise.  Farewell  to  thy  miserable  but  faith- 
ful old  timbers ! 

Several  months  later  a  rusty  and  weather-beaten  sloop- 
of-war  anchored  off  the  New  York  N'avy-yard.  It  was 
tlie  summer  of  1856,  and  the  vessel  was  the  Yincennes. 
She  brought  home  with  her  the  remnant  of  our  Expe- 
dition, and  a  vast  amount  of  matter  for  the  construction 
of  charts,  the  advancement  of  science,  and  the  enlighten- 
ment of  the  inquiring  mind:  she  was  the  grand  store- 
house in  which  had  been  stowed,  from  time  to  time,  the 
dearly-bought  work  of  the  several  vessels  that  had  com- 
posed the  squadron.  The  cruise  was  at  an  end,  and  men 
returned  to  strange-looking  homes,  with  bent  frames  that 
had  been  straight,  and  with  whitened  locks  that  had  been 


I  RENDER  "FEAR-i^M"  THANKS,  AND  MAKE  MY  BOW,  507 

dark.  Who  among  those  men  will  again  volunteer  for  a 
surveying  and  exploring  voyage  around  the  world?  I 
have  but  one  more  remark  to  add  in  reo-ard  to  the 
achievements  of  the  Expedition,  and  that  will  give  the 
reader  a  fair  idea  of  the  extent  of  our  collections.  I  was 
informed  by  Mr.  Stimpson,  our  iN'aturalist,  some  three 
months  since,  that  he  had  brought  back  with  him  nearly 
Jive  thousand  varieties  of  animal  life — mostly  marine — 
which  were  previously  unknown  to  the  scientific  world. 
What  a  vast  field  is  there  opened  for  the  naturalist  and 
his  microscope ! 

And  now  I  have  but  to  dip  once  more  into  the  ink- 
stand to  return  my  thanks  to  Messrs.  Edward  Kern  and 
Geo.  G.White,  of  Philadelphia,  and  to  "fear>r'  A.  E. 
Hartman,  of  Dresden,  Saxony,  for  the  aid  of  their  able 
pencils  in  the  way  of  illustrating  my  very  imperfect  MSS., 
and  to  express  the.  hope  that  Congress  may  call  upon 
Commander  John  Rodgers,  our  ci-devant  leader,  to  pre- 
pare an  official  account  of  the  cruise  which  shall  spread 
the  result  of  our  work  before  the  world,  and  do  that 
which  it  has  not  been  in  my  power  to  accomplish  in  a 
simple  narrative  of  this  nature : — i.e.  to  do  justice  to  an 
undertaking  which  was  originated  by  the  necessities  of 
commerce,  which  has  progressed  in  silence,  accomplished 
vast  results  of  which  little  or  no  notice  has  been  taken, 
(from  the  fact  that  we  returned  during  the  violent  excite- 
ment preceding  the  late  presidential  election,)  and  which 
has  not  been  blown  into  notoriety  by  the  brazen  trumpet 
of  an  Antony  Yan  Corlear. 

THE   END. 


J.  B.  LIPPINCOTT  &  CO.'S  PUBLICATIONS. 


LIPPIiNCOTT'S 

PRONOUNCING 

GAZETTEER  OF  THE  WORLD, 

OR,  GEOGRAPHICAL  DICTIONARY, 

Comprising  nearly  2200  Pages,  including  a  greater  amount  of  matter  than  any 
other  single  volume  in  the  English  Language ;  giving  a  description  of  nearly 

One  Hundred  Thousand  Places,  toUh  the  correct  Pronunciation  of 

their    Names,   being    above    20,000    more    Geographical   Notices 
than  are  found  in  any  other  Gazetteer  of  the  World. 

EDITED   BY   J.  THOMAS,  M.D.,  and   T.  BALDWIN,', 

Assisted  by  several  other  Gentlemen. 

TESTIMONIALS. 

Drom  Vie  Hon.  Edward  Everett. 

"This  work  has  been  evidently  prepared  with  great  labor,  and  as  far  as  1  can  judge,  from  the 
best  materials  and  sources  of  information.  .  .  .  The  principles  adopted  in  ascertaining  the 
pronunciation  of  proper  names  (as  stated  in  the  Introduction)  appear  to  me  correct.  This  is  a 
matter  attended  with  some  difficulty  and  uncertainty,  but  it  is  treated  with  great  ability,  and  in  a 
\rery  satisfactory  manner,  in  your  Introduction.  I  have  no  doubt  your  Gazetteer  will  be  found  an 
extremely  useful  work,  well  calculated  to  supply  a  want  which  must  have  been  severely  felt  by 
almost  every  class  of  readers." 

From  J.  E.  Worcester,  L.L.D.,  Author  of  Worccster''s  Critical  Dictionary. 

"Having  made  some  examination  of 'Lippincott's  Pronouncing  Gazetteer,' more  particularly  ia 
relation  to  Pronunciation,  1  take  pleasure  in  expressing  a  concurrence,  generally,  in  what  is  said  by 
the  Hon.  Edward  Everett,  of  the  value  and  excellence  of  the  work.  The  difficult  subject  of  the 
pronunciation  of  geographical  names  appears  to  me  to  have  been  attended  to  with  great  care,  good 
taste,  and  sound  judgment ;  and  this  feature  of  the  Gazetteer  must  add  greatly  to  its  value." 

From  tlie  Hon.  Robert  C.  Winthrop. 

"  I  know  of  no  Gazetteer  so  complete  and  comprehensive.     ...     1  entirely  concur  with  Mr 

Everett  in  the  opinion  he  has  pronounced  of  the  work,  and  sincerely  hope  that  it  may  receive  an 

amount  of  public  patronage  in  some  degree  commensurate  with  the  magnitude  and  costliness  of  the 

undertaking." 

From  Washington  Irving. 

"  r  fully  concur  with  the  opinions  given  by  Mr.  Everett  and  Mr.  Winthrop  of  its  merits,  and  with 
their  wishes  for  its  wide  circulation." 
From  J.  Addison  Alexander,  D.D.,  Prof.  Oriental  Languages  and  Literature,  Princeton  Cd. 

"  On  the  subject  of  Geographical  Orthography  and  Orthoepy,  this  is  not  only  the  best,  but  the  only 
systematic  work  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  In  examining  this  work,  I  have  received  an  indirect 
and  incidental,  but  very  strong  impression  of  its  great  superiority,  in  fulness  and  accurai-y,  to  any 
Dictionary  of  Geography  with  which  I  am  acquainted." 

From  Dr.  B.  Sears,  President  of  Brown  University. 

"  your  work  must  prove  an  invaluable  guide  to  the  student  of  geography,  and  if  generally  adopted' 
could  not  fail  to  remove  that  discrepancy  and  confusion  which  now  so  generally  prevail,  in  regard 
to  the  pronunciation  of  geographical  names." 

From  M.  B.  Anderson,  L.L.D.,  President  of  the  University  of  Rochester. 

"I  hesitate  not  to  say  that  it  is  altogether  superior  to  any  book  of  its  class  accessible  to  the 
American  public." 
From  Prof.  C.  A.  Goodrich,  of  Tale  College,  Editor  'Revised  Ediiion'  of  Webster's  Dictionary. 

"  Your  Pronouncing  Gazetteer  of  the  World  appears,  from  the  examination  I  have  given  it,  to  be 
1  work  of  immense  Ubor,  very  wisely  directed.  I  consider  it  as  of  great  importance  to  Teachers." 

IVom  the  Hon.  George  Bancroft. 
"I  have  formed  a  very  high  opinion  cf  the  merits  of  your  Complete  Pronouncing  Gazetteer; 
especially  for  its  comprehensiveness,  compactness,  and  general  accuracy.    I  wish  you  the  success 
which  you  so  richly  deserve." 

48 


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